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iirc it cost about $200, maybe $300 for the 40k transmission service on 06 DSG new-beetle.
FWS4
Any suggestions.
thanks
Try giving it a power source and see if it works .
If it does work then it might be the selector switch on the dash.
It may be reading the temp incorrectly turning on the fans after the temp has reached a higher temp than the sensor registers it as?
If low then the oil pressure may be comprised.
An oil pump that is intermittent may cause this alert.
That is, one that is starting to fail.
Check the oil pressure to see if it is up to spec.
A clogged oil filter may cause this as well. (Really clogged.)
Oil that is too thin in viscosity?
Intermittent ignition switch?
Wire lose to fuel pump?
Wiring at fuel pump corroded or frayed internally?
My questions are:
How does one know when to replace a timing belt?
Is $905 a lot to pay to replace:
timing belt
timing belt tensioner (arm?)
water pump
(I was told that if you are replacing the timing belt, you might as well replace all three b/c they are right there, and easy to get to once the TB is off).
I'm new to this board, so if I need to repost elsewhere, please just let me know.
Thank you in advance!
David
(if the car has the original battery there is no doubt that battery needs replacement.)
I have had this car for about a year. Two or 3 months ago the check engine light came on with a "catalyst below efficiency bank 1" code. I drove it for a few weeks like that (the dealer said it was okay). Then the car started to miss pretty badly. It was upredictable, except that it seemed to happen mostly when you were accelerating. It gave the code P0606 - PCM Processor Fault.
The volkswagen dealer is about an hour away from us and has NEVER managed to fix a problem (I previously had a Jetta 4 cyl) for us, so we took it to a local mechanic. They said they changed the MAF (why, I don't know) and it did nothing. They changed the coil pack and it did nothing. They decided I had water in my fuel (don't think so).
I got the car back and drove it a few days. The problem was worse and I noticed this suspicious "clicking" sound in my dash when I would start the car. Then I noticed that when the car missed, I would hear the clicking sound. I took it back and the replaced the fuel pump relay. The car started and seemed to run okay until the numbnut sat there revving up the motor over and over and the car shut itself down and wouldn't start.
So, then (being a moron, apparently), I let them replace the fuel pump. It didn't work. The car starts and has a clicking sound. It runs, but clicks and cuts out when you accelerate.
Does anyone, anywhere have any idea what could be causing this problem?
Better yet, does anyone want to buy a cute silver Jetta wagon with leather interior and only 85k for REAL CHEAP (maybe 4500)??
Thanks,
Mud
It is past time to replace the timing belt. I replace mine at 50K or when there are ANY cracks. Yours has cracks. If the timing belt breaks while the engine is running, serious eng damage can/will result. Not worth it. Replace the belt often.
Is the $905 for everything or just the timing belt? If the shop is using list prices, it can get crazy quick. Not to mention labor. It still seems high. Changing the timing belt is something you can do. Buy a good maint. manual and read up on the replacement. It's not that hard. No special tools needed.
Replacing the tensioner and WP. I didn't replace my tensioner until 90K or so. Water pump I will do now that I am at 150K. So your tensioner is in the range where I would replace it. Have you flushed and changed your coolant every two years? If the cooling system has been kept in order, you might be able to push it off until the next belt change. The coolant ever look dark/cloudy/rusty? If so, might want to change the WP. You can always pull the pump off and take a look. It will only cost you a WP gasket.
Check out AutohausAZ. I get a lot of parts from them. Their VW part prices are some of the best. You can even get a tech manual from them. Even if you don't end up doing the work yourself, the manual is nice to have. But if you are thinking about doing it yourself, let us know. I have done a bunch of these. I'm sure others out there have as well. So you will get a lot of help and save a bunch of money.
Tracy
Sounds like you are having a lot of fun! LOL. Looks like a lot of parts were just replaced without really testing them to see if they were faulty. I'm surprised that they didn't replace the 02 sensors as well. Have you been able to isolate where the clicking sound is coming from? Under the dash is a large area. Any chance it is coming from the engine compartment? Have you had the ECU checked? The clicking sound may be the problem or a result of another problem. If a relay is clicking, you should be able to feel it. That will give you the system it is for.
I'm guessing that the check engine light is still on. What are the codes now? The P0606 I'm guessing is part of the ECU. The closest codes I have in my manual are 0604 and 0605. Both part of the ECU. May be a VW code. I would start with the ECU. Once you know it is good, you can move from it to other systems. Have you searched the net for the P0606 code?
Sorry I can't be more help. This is a new one. Keep us up to date.
Tracy
Thanks so much for your insight!
Yes $905 was for the belt, tensioner, and WP. I called one place who will do it for $850, and I have others on my list to call as well.
Thanks also for the reco on AutohausAZ. I'll check it out. I don't know if I am up for changing the belt myself, but I'm definitely going to look into getting a tech manual.
Thanks again!
David
I have followed his advice on several cars and replaced the pump and timing belt at the same time. I have had zero problems (various car brands), so it is probably worth the extra money, just to avoid a leaking water pump later (especially if you are on some lonely road late at night when it begins to leak).
Bel Air Car Guy.
I understand that you may not want to tackle the timing belt. I know over the years I have saved myself hundreds of dollars on repairs. Less I spend on labor, the more I can spend on parts. You should be able to get a Haynes repair manual at a local parts store. It's a basic manual. R.Bentley repair manual is probably the best. Autohaus carries this manual.
When you are asking for quotes, ask for the parts and labor cost separate. I priced the three parts you are looking to replace at Autohaus, $125. So your cheapest quote so far is $850, that puts labor at $725, wow. Having them separate the two, you know how much each it is costing you. The stories I could tell you about the over priced parts game. Also, ask where the shop gets their parts. You want good quality parts at a good price. Last thing on this, ask if they are willing to put your parts on for you. You supply the parts, they install. Labor may go up a bit, but you can compare the cost between the two.
If cost isn't really a factor, change the WP. I have used mine for 150K and three timing belt changes and no problems. No leaks, no overheating. Lucky, maybe, but I will not push it any further. $60 from AZ. Not much to pay for peace of mind. Make sure you use G-12.
Other things to think about while that part of the engine is apart. Cam position sensor. It's behind all that stuff. There is no replacement schedule that I know of. If it fails, you get a check engine light and a poor running engine. Must tear it all down to get to it. I replaced mine around 90K when I was doing the belt. Noticed that some of the plastic around the pickup was cracked/missing. Check out the engine mount. They do wear out. With your mileage it's probably good, but...........it will have to be removed to do the timing belt and you should use NEW bolts when remounting the engine mount. What condition is your drivebelt in? Replace if it is worn, cracked, glazed, ect.
Yes, it can get crazy quick. My son is going on vacation for two weeks. I get to do the struts, all suspension bushings, brakes, motor mounts, and the stuff you are doing. We're over $500 and counting. Most of the parts coming from AZ.
Tracy
Also check the strut mounting hardware and your control arm bushings. If these are worn out, it can make your Jetta do funky things. But I agree with Mr. Shiftright, check out the mounts first. If you don't notice anything, time to take it to a shop. We all hope it isn't the trans.
Tracy
But if it was the motor mounts wouldn't the car shake whenever the engine is on? When it is at idle or in gear (besides reverse) It is no different than my friends Honda Civic, but when I put it in reverse it starts to go nuts. I would think if the mounts were bad that it would do this all the time the engine is running, not just in reverse.
Did you check out the mounts? If the motor has an abnormal amount of movement(bad mounts/something broken) it could be throwing off the sensor. The drivetrain is still but the engine/trans is moving. In reverse, the engine moves making it think you are moving forward. The system doesn't know the difference. Once you can rule out the mounts and the suspension, with the symptoms you are writing, your looking at the transmission/transaxle.
Tracy
I would be real tempted to change all three mounts at the same time. If the rear mount has failed, it is putting a lot of stress on the other mounts. Wearing them out before their time.
Do you feel you could do the work, or will you take it to a repair shop?
Tracy
As for the other two mounts, I figured that they would have excess wear and tear on them because of the third one being beat up, but when I checked them yesterday they seemed to be tight and did not appear to have any play in them. That is one thing I am going to ask the shop to take a look at for me.
At the local Advanced Auto mounts range from 80 to 150 for the rear and 50 to 100 for the side mounts. These priced do not seem to be reasonable. I figure the shop will take about an hour to do the actual labor and they probably get their parts from advanced auto since its like a mile away.
Thanks a lot for everyone helping me out with this inconvenience, special thanks to underthevwhood. You seem to be very knowledgeable about vw. I know where to go if I have any future problems
Check all the local auto parts stores for the prices. There can be quite a difference. Make sure the price is for the dogbone with bushings, not just the bushings. The price you wrote looks like it is for the dogbone with bushings.
If cost is an issue, you could hold off on the side mounts. You are aware of them. Have the shop check them out before and after the rear mount is replaced. On a lift, it shouldn't take that long. Jack stands a little longer.
Please let us know how it all turns out.
Tracy
Currently I have the car throwing the following codes I was able to get from a generic code scanner. Check engine light is currently on
17581
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too High
17950
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance
17952
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too High
On occassion and it happened several times today for some reason the EPC light will go on and I will lose power. Usually just a simple restart will make that light go away and I'll have power again, but the triangle/circle light usually stays on until I restart it again.
I've cleared the codes several times and have them stay off for a week at at time sometimes, but they always come back
I've had no work done on the car recently so it couldn't of been cause by anything else that was done to it.
I've checked all the fuses and they all appear to be good. I've also checked all the hoses for cracks and any loose connections and everything appears to be ok.
It's a 2000 Jetta VR6 with the 2.8L engine
I don't want to go to the dealership or anywhere else for that matter and have them throw on a new throttle body and have it not solve the problem cause that's how most places operate.
So what should I check first?
So basically it needs a transmission and exhaust system but somehow it still passed inspection? Any suggestions underthevwhood? haha happen to live close to West Virginia?
I looked up transmission options and found out rebuilding the one you have is useless. A new automatic transmission and installation sits somewhere around $5000. Anyone know how much it is to convert an automatic trans to manual? The new manual 5 speed transmission is only 2 to 3 thousand plus installation and conversion costs.
I don't think a trans service will help. So the options are new, used, or rebuild. With the $5000 you were quoted, new is out. You can buy a different Jetta for that. What did you learn about rebuilding the trans? Useless, please explain. Used may be an option. Most likely from a salvage yard. Most of the time they can tell you if it was working when they received the car. How bad is the leak?
The quote for the exhaust seems a little high. I don't understand why they would want to replace the exhaust system if the hangers and/or mounts are missing. This is something they should be able to fabricate. Are the mufflers shot as well? For $900, you should be able to get top of the line stainless. Check with your local muff. shops.
Convert to a 5-speed manual trans.....you don't want to go there. LOL. Way to much work, especially if you don't do the work yourself. More Work=More Money.
Sorry I live in South Texas. Little far to help. You will have to be persistent and "ferret" out the good prices. I got tired of paying a lot just because I had a VW. After a quick search, I found a rebuilt 5-speed auto for around $2100 w/ one year warranty. Not cheap but better that $5000.
Tracy
The garage I took it too was kind of vague. They said it was leaking but only suggested fixing it and said it shouldn't be much of a problem. To me that seems like it is not leaking too much but who knows until I get a chance to look at it myself. They seemed to think it was more important to fix the exhaust before the transmission. The receipt says center exhaust hanger support and mount missing, and front exhaust poor. It passed inspection and the engine is not very loud so I don't really care about the exhaust. It seems fine to me, I might just weld it or make my own brackets once I get my welder.
The car shifts fine in all gears except for first. Off the line it kicks, and very occasionally it stalls itself out but will start right up again. Also when the transmission fluid warms up there is less of a problem with it. It stalls more often when cold in reverse.
I have to look in the area to see if there are any used transmissions. from what I have read it looks like their life span is from 100k to 150k and they start to fail.
The procedure can be found on the internet. Essentually it entails turning the key "on" (dont start engine) and then slowly push throttle pedal to floor and slowly release. Then shut off key. This is supposed to resycronize the pedal to the throttlebody.
(My recolection of the procedure may be somwhat simplified.... please review the correct procedure.)
If a resync. does not "stick", then consider using VagCom to isolate the problem.
How does one go about changing the lock cylinder.
How about changing the ignition switch?
If I can not get it to start I can not check the ignition coil which might have been giving the daughter trouble.
Would love to get it started and then sell the high maintenance item. The car not the daughter. Ha Ha. She just got engaged and will need the money from the sale to help pay off bill to my sister and then some left over to pay for the wedding.
Good news- the lock cylinder and the ignition switch are two different parts. Replacing the ignition switch isn't that big a deal. Since you don't plan on keeping the Jetta, buy a Haynes repair manual at your local auto parts store. This manual is good enough for this job and does explain how to do the replacement.
I had to replace one on my '97 Golf. It was so bad that the headlights would not stay on. I think there was a recall on this years ago. I didn't bother checking it out, just replaced it. Not one of VW's greatest designs. I have had no problems since the replacement and that has been some years ago.
The only special tool you will need is a puller. I used a three leg puller, and it worked fine. The puller is used to pull off the splined collar for the steering wheel. Also, you may need a special shear-bolt. Anti-theft thing you know. I used a vise grips to get mine loose and reused the old "bolt". I have the new shear-bolt sitting in my tool box, lol.
Once you get the engine turning over, then we can tackle the coil.
Tracy
If the hangers/brackets are missing and the mufflers are fine, you fabricate new ones. It's not that hard for a shop to do. Take a look at new parts on the net and then look at yours. You can see what is missing right away.
Consider taking you TDI to another shop to get a second opinion. See what someone else thinks. Don't tell them what the first shop said, just tell them what you have told us here. See what they find out. My son saved a bunch of money doing this very thing.
Tracy
Today the check engine light came on, next time I get close to an advanced auto I will have them check it for me, just to make sure it is the transmission and not some other error. So I start the car and let it idle for like 2 to 5 minutes and then it is fine, rarely stalls. However when I am coasting or it has to downshift into first it grinds the clutch horribly. Like someone learning to shift for the first time. After it warms up it does not shake as much when I put it into reverse either. I have to call this transmission specialty place tomorrow to get an estimate on rebuilding the trans, and depending on how much it costs I might have them change the fluid and see if that helps at all. I would like to change the filter to but I believe that it is a sealed unit and the filter is not changeable? Any one know this for sure? (Those sealed transmissions are a crock, just a way for the manufacturers to get more money) :P
As for replacing it, it's a JOB. A lot of crap to get out of the way. Then its bolt on. Doing the clutch on mine is hell. Glad I don't have to do that every 15K, lol.
Your transmission is not a sealed unit. VW however does consider it to be a "sealed" unit. Too even check the fluid level is a major pain in the butt. Autohaus AZ has a filter kit for $22.35. I can not recommend doing this yourself. Specially with the problems you are having. Also, you have to use trans fluid for a VW. Part of their "sealed" unit, lol.
Before you write off the transmission, have it looked at. It does sound like the transmission, but make sure. Grinding is never good if coming from the trans. Let them know about the speedo jumping to 10 MPH when put in reverse sitting still. To me, that is an important clue.
Tracy
I hear the following:
1. if i hold steady at 50mph, there is a slight whining noise. not there beyond that speed
2. start car in drive way. turn A/c on and fan speed is set to its lowest level. reverse car from drive way. put in drive and slowly start driving. hear more like a metallic rattling as though a/c motor is kicking in or something and continues on while i turn left and step on gas and then the noise is gone.
3. On certain road, the steering wheel vibrates a lot and vibration is felt by driver and passenger..and once it felt like the wheels were about to fall off..this happened at 55mph and at 70mph