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Synthetic motor oil

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  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Follow your manufacturer's recomendation!!!
    Don't switch to the sinthetics until after the
    first scheduled oil change.
    All those few luxury/sports car coming with the
    synthetics from the factory are build to the
    different specs with different tolerances and assembly line procedures.
  • itsaplotitsaplot Member Posts: 11
    Thank you all for your quick responses. I think I will wait until the 3000 mile mark (any day now) and change the Silverado over to Mobil1 or Amsoil. My 1997 Yukon has 90K miles but has oil changes every 3-5000 miles of dyno oil. It's probably past the break-in period, so I think I'll go ahead and change that over too. Thanks again. -Sandy
  • dmkdmk Member Posts: 22
    Amsoil, Redline, etc. have to get in the game of distribution. You can't have a successful product if the consumer can't find it. Amsoils MLM crap is a perfect example. If your local auto parts store can't at least order the product at a competitive price forget it. I, like most people, don't want to worry about finding the right oil when I need it. Stick with a major brand you can find at Pep Boys, K-Mart, Wal-Mart, Trak, etc.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    421 posts and not a single factual shred of proof one way or the other...

    I happen to be using Mobil 1 in my '97 Mazda 626 V6, just to see if I notice any difference. So far, none.

    I change both oil and filter at 4000 mile intervals. When I get close to that mileage, I can actually detect the engine getting a little noisier, which is the same behavior I experienced prior to the Mobil 1. My gas mileage has not improved, nor has it worsened.

    I'm really not sure why I'm performing this experiment, since I've never had engine failure related to a lubricated part. Just seemed like something to do.....I would guess I'm simply throwing money away at this point....
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    You said ". shipped to your door." It really would be wonderful.

    Unfortunately, in reality, it is not so.

    Probably, you have your own house, and/or somebody is at home most of time. Not so with us.

    Both my wife and I are working. And we are renting an apartment, one of about 85 in the building.

    We ordered several times different merchandise by Internet. Every time we did not know exactly when it would be delivered. When returning home from work, we see a sheet of paper affixed to the outer door of our building, informing that UPS was here and will be tomorrow from 12 to 5pm or 2 to 7pm. The same with FedEX. It does not matter if we order an expensive item or something costing 5 dollars. Only US Mail let a package at our door.

    I am lucky to have a very flexible schedule at work and can take day off, or take my work to home, while waiting for delivery. I would do it for major purchase, like computer, or for something we cannot easily buy something locally - like a professional book.

    But I would not take day off waiting for Amsoil delivery, provided I can buy Mobil 1 in Pep Boys. They are next door from our local supermarket, 5 minutes to buy.
  • rcarbonircarboni Member Posts: 290
    Very simple solution...

    Have it shipped to work. I had this same problem a few years back where it was not convenient to leave a package sitting all day on the door step. I just started having everything delivered to my office.

    The most unforgettable item I had shipped to work was a complete lift kit for a Jeep. Four leaf springs, shocks, etc. The looks on co-workers faces was priceless!

    The great thing about shipping to work is, if you're like me, you're always there! lol.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Thank you!

    Never thought about this.
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    Some employers do not allow personal mail/packages to be delivered to an employee at work because that would be utlizing company resources for personal use ie:people in the mailroom has to take the time to deliver everyone's personal mail. Of course if you worked at a small company that wouldn't be a problem but alot of folks work for big old corprate america. Good idea but not foolproof.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    At the big old corporate america mailrooms they can accept the package and hold it for you.
    You pick it up at the mailroom yourself without wasting anybody's time.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Did anybody try this brand?
    They have an online store too.

    http://www.synerlec.com/index.html
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    Not with my company. But then again I don't like half the things they do there anyway...oh well.....
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    I order everything off the net shipped to work. i work for a University and the mail room in the building calls the person with a package, so there is no loss to get it delivered. and someone always is there to sign for it.

    Of course if you get it shipped at home and they leave the slip, you can call the number and have it held at your area's distribution center, then you pick it up at your leisure. i've done that with packages family members send.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    A comparison done by an Australian Car magazine:
    http://www.oil-tech.com/amscmpr.htm

    Consumer Reports taxi test in 1996:
    http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Sorry, but the site advertises Amsoil.
    http://www.oil-tech.com/index.htm
    Same old thing.

    Regarding the CR test. It's not really a test.
    Thanks anyway.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    I work for a major university. They will receive stuff, but frown on having it delivered to work. The reason is that all packages go to central receiving. Any package that is not tagged with a PO number can screw up things up. Also since they have no way of knowing that it is personal, they will open the package to inspect the contents. If something gets damaged in transit, who would be liable? It depends on the circumstances. Of course, with me, UPS knows who I am and when I have it sent to my home, they bring it straight to my office.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    There is a very simple way to let them know that the package is personal. "C/O your name+your phone number" line on the address label should clear the things up.
    If the package gets damaged during transit no mail room will accept it without making the delivery driver aware of the problem (which is carrier's liability).
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    And the stuff don't get damaged unless the container itself gets smashed - easy to recognize without opening the package.
  • dmkdmk Member Posts: 22
    Why did they test such obscure oils? Where was Valvoline, Quaker State, Havoline, Red Line?
    Biased test indeed!
  • sniffysniffy Member Posts: 12
    as mentioned earlier, oil-tech.com appears to be sponsored by amsoil - so that makes it biased from the word go.

    the consumer reports test is more in depth and they also test the brands mentioend above ...bust as far as i'm concerned, i DO have to take cold start-ups and extreme temperature considerations into account since i live in canada.
    thats why i prefer giving the benefit of doubt to synthetics rather than conv dino oil
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    Why didn't they test the weights of Mobil1 oils that are now commonly used for modern engines? That is - 5w30 and 10w30. Instead they used Mobil1 5w50 and 0w40. Any oil that has such a broad range of weights is inferior to a narrower range. More modifiers which are NOT lubricants must be added to achieve this property. That's why I use Mobil1 10w30 for southern California. That weight of oil is ideal for the temperature range we experience here. Always use the minimum weight range for your conditions in order to have the best lubricating properties.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    You wrote: Why did they test such obscure oils? Where was ...

    This article is about test by some Australian magazine, not American. Personally, I would not be surprised if other brands are popular with the antipodes :-).

    BTW, even the brands are identical, the tests probably does not matter much. As I had read somewhere, some corporations are marketing different oils in different regions. I.e. the brand is the same, thank you, but the composition, additives, and/or the manufacturing process are not. As the result, the European oil of the same name can be different then the (North) American.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I think to make meaningful comparison tests one must use oils of the same weight range. A good starting point would be synthetic 5w30. It's the the most used weight for modern engines. All the comparison tests I've seen so far include weights that are all over the place. It's no good comparing a 0w40 weight with a 10w30 in the same test. The broader weight range just cannot be as good as the smaller weight range. In fact, a straight W30 synthetic oil in the same test should come out on top.

    I think however that these different weights are included in the tests to confuse everybody. And when a non-synthetic oil is included in the same test, more confusion is generated which is after all, the point of the whole test procedure.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    The Aussie magazine test was performed by Fast Fours and Rotaries. It appeared on a lot of Amsoil dealers web pages after the article and was not sponsored by them. Also note when Amsoil post comparisons on their site, they use different weight oils.
    I think the CR article was more about oil change intervals. Sniffy, this is what they said about cold-weather starting: "One distinction: According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures - a condition our taxi tests didn't simulate effectively. They also had the highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil protects the engine. Thus, these oils may be a good choice for hard driving in extreme temperatures."
  • fariborzfariborz Member Posts: 2
    in the pas/present, I have had these cars;

    '95 VW Jetta, 185K miles (sold it)
    '89 Mazda MPV, 155K miles (sold it)
    '91 Plymouth Acclaim, 87K miles (sold it)
    '93 Ford Ranger, 127K miles (current)
    '95 Dodge Stratus, 89K miles (current)
    '97 Dodge Caravan, 65K miles (current)

    I never used oil additives or synthetic oil. In fact I used any oil or oil filter that was on sale at the time! Two things I always did; let the engine warm up before driving off, and changed the oil and filter every 3000-4000 miles. never ever had engine problems. You should have seen the camshaft and the lifters when the mechanic took off the valve cover off the Jetta to replace the timing belt at 130K. The top part was very clean. I get my oil at 59cents after rebate, and never pay more than $2 for oil filter ( Fram or Penski)
  • dbertidberti Member Posts: 8
    I have had Mobil 1 synthetic for almost 45oo miles. I was going to leave it for another 3000 to make it 7500 between oil changes. Should I also leave the stock Toyota filter that long. Do I need to change the oil filter any sooner than the oil. Do oil filters last for 7500 miles.

    Thanks
    DAvide
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The Toyota filter will go 7,500 miles. I have a 92 Camry V6 and I would suggest using the Mobil 1 filters. When I switched my filters to the Amsoil filters my oil analysis showed that it filtered better ( in terms of parts per million of wear metals, solids etc. at the same mileage) then the OEM Toyota. Mobil 1 also makes a great filter so I would suggest using it with the Mobil 1 oil.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #444

    I do 15k oil and oem filter changes on TLC's. The most telling is at the 60k valve check and or adjust interval. According to the dealer's technical guru for TLC's, it was clean as a whistle and totally within spec's and did not need adjustment.

    It is absolutely true that 3-4k conventional oil changes will fill the bill, and especially if you trade the car before 100k. The reason I use synthetic is to change the oil 3-4 times less and also to run a superior wider range of temp lubricant. Ultimately I use less product, it costs less and I dont have to go to the oil change facility or get under the hood as much.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    May I ask you, please, what car are you driving, and for how many miles per year?

    Also, what is TLC?
  • queenbee1queenbee1 Member Posts: 5
    I read all the posts listed in this forum (yes,all 447 of them)and I've come to the conclusion that there is just not enough evidence available to make me want to make the switch to a synthetic oil.There is just too much dis-information about the frequency of changing the oil and/or filter and how or if to make the change in a high mileage vehicle (over 70,000 miles). Plus there is too much discussion from "dealers" for me to make an objective opinion. I know this to be certainly true....if you keep your vehicle well-maintained and change your oil and filter at manufactor specified levels, your chances of your vehicle giving you problems later in it's life should be reduced.

    Thanks for all the great debating.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    You're exactly right. But Syn. oil is a superior oil in all regards. However, as you say, not enough evidence exist at this time to convince people to switch. Just peace of mind, I guess.

    John
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #448
    Toyota Landcruiser and on this one app 15k a yr.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #449
    The other way to ask this question is what evidence that convinces you that conventional oil is the best?
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Thank you!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I mean, if the manufacturer says (in my case) 7.5 k is a good interval, why do I even think about changing oil every say 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 5, k? Now that ranges from 5 x as much to 1.5 x as is recommended by the manufacturer!!! Now the quick change artists, I mean quick change lube guys, advocate 2.5 x faster interval than my specs call for.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    So given the above scenario; The OPERATIVE way of saying it is well, I am using crappy stuff as recommended by the manufacturer, but it is cheap, but to make sure I will change it 2.5 x faster than it needs to be changed so I can have piece of mind?

    It is you'alls money, but I have to tell you, the word waste comes to mind. Why do we waste it? You may have hit the nail on the head TOO much "dis" information
  • ro22tolro22tol Member Posts: 24
    I use to use the amsoil brand filter, until I found out that "hastings" makes their oil filters for them. I took apart a hastings and an amsoil filter and they were the same. The hastings filters run about $4.00 and the amsoil filter runs
    about $9.00 for my truck. Guess which one I use??

    Make sure you buy the Hasitings brand not the (Hasitings Casite brand). The Casite is their lower level filer.

    www.hastingsfilters.com

    use the above link to find an autoparts store near you that carries "hastings"
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I have used Amsoil and Hastings filters but were given the impression that Amsoil's were built to higher specs (by the Amsoil dealer of course). I am trying to clarify with Hastings now (via e-mail to VP of manufacturing) on the Casite line of filters as I ran a cross check with my Amsoil # and it came up with a Casite #. If your comment is correct, this means the Amsoil filter is of lower quality then the Hastings. I sure hope not but??? However, over 9 years my oil analysis has been okay with the Amsoil. I will post a response if I receive one from Hastings. Hastings does make a quality filter though.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    On my last visit to wallmart a new Fram oil filter caught my attention by its super fancy packaging.
    The funny thing is that I couldn't cross reference the new "masterpiece" from Fram to any existent filter. Their website doesn't provide
    any help either. The price is around $10.image

    http://www.framx2.com/
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    http://www.keith.mcbride.org/motor.html

    This appears to be a good site for comparison of synthetics. What I found interesting is that it is obviously sponsored by a Redline dealer yet for the 10W30 especially, the Amsoil has the better numbers and in all others weights is very close to Redline. Price of Redline is about $1.50-$3/quart more though
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    How much a quart of Amsoil goes for on average (without the dealer's discount)?
    I bought a case of Redline for $6.29/qt.(Eurasian)
    The Amsoil on-line store charges $5.70/qt.
    Where did you get the $1.50-$3/qt. difference?
  • ro22tolro22tol Member Posts: 24
    I do not think you will get a good response from Hastings, but its worth a try. Its most likely a trade secret or something. Its my understanding that filters are like tires and electronics. You have a half dozen manufactures making the products for 30 or so companies. I am sure that the "casite" line from Hastings is there lower level of filters, at least thats what I was told by my local auto parts store. I am looking forward to their response..

    ro22tol
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The redline online stores that I have visited are asking $7.75/quart or $8 regardless of the weight of the oil.
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    very good to see the data on different weights like that... helps out alot.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I emailed Purolator to ask them if their filter made for Subaru is better than their regular parts store filter. They responded with a generic "All of our filters meet or exceed SAE specs".

    I don't think the oil comparison was sponsored by Redline. That article is all over the internet. It's been out a couple of years so for true comparisons, check with each brand for updated info. Very informative.

    Here's an informative post on an Audi forum about oil.
    http://www.audiworld.com/forum/m/a4/msgs/336510.phtml
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Eurasian is less expensive then Redline itself. I ordered some manual tranny gear oil. Thanks
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I did receive a response which, as requested by the respondent, I will keep confidential as Hastings & Amsoil do have a contractual relationship. In summary, they state that Amsoil filters are, indeed, made to different specifications then Hastings with those changes geared to synthetic lubricants and extended drains. Although they may look alike upon cutting them open the respondent assured me that the performance is not the same?
    I hope that he meant that Amsoil was higher performing for the additional prioce!
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The corporate world stinks, the more you dig the sleazier it gets. Hastings does not manufacture their own filters, they are manufactured by Baldwin which is owned by Clarcor. As we thought, they manufacture under multiple brands under multiple specs. On the web the Hastings exec.personnel list is a duplicate of the Baldwin list, the mailing address is a duplicate and the manufacturing plant is Baldwin's. Clarcor bought out Hastings a while ago but kept the name intact.

    I just do not know what to think now?
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    Good filters - been using them - quality similar to Purolator or Wix/NAPA, but a little less expensive. Working well w/Mobil 1.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I was at the local Wal Mart today and they had Mobil 1 Synthetic for $3.68/qt. Evidently not a special, because the price was on a sticker on the shelf. Check your local Wal Mart if you use Mobil 1 Synthetic. Falling prices.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    Better get it....4.28 at my Wal-mart.
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