I have never had blue smoke from Mobil 1. White smoke is water vapor and normal. Blue smoke indicates a ring or other problem and the dealer should look at it while under warranty.
That could be oil shedders on the valves letting the synthetic slip by, on into the engine. I suspect you may not be quite that lucky, but it's another possibility. As a partial diagnostic, it would be very interesting if you would now change the oil and filter back to Valvoline to see if the problem persists.
I have a 20 hp Briggs Intek twin on my ZTR mower; it has @130 hours on it. I ran straight 30W in it until this year, when I switched to 10W-30 Mobil 1. Prior to the switch I would often get a bit of blue smoke at start up-especially if the mower had sat for more than 7-10 days. Oil usage was less than 1/8 qt every 50 hrs. The switch to Mobil 1 has eliminated the blue smoke and oil consumption remains negligible. FWIW, Briggs recommends either single grade dino oils or synthetic multigrades. Since the 30W is not recommended for temperatures below 40F, the Mobil 1 gives me increased flexibility to use the mower early and late in the mowing season without having to switch to a straight 20W grade.
Finally Walmart got some of the 5 Qt. jugs of Mobil 1. $18.88/ea. I'm letting all of you know cause I already stocked up!! I think this is a killer deal. I buy enough for about a year, cause they get these jugs with no regularity.
I was under the impression that if you drain the transmission fluid & measure it to insure your putting back the right amount, you need to allow it to cool because the fluid expands when hot. Is this true? Thanks.
Only if checking the level does it need to be hot. Once drained and sitting in a pan it will not make any difference. I change mine via your measuring method all the time. Save a lot of hassle in truing to determine how much to replace
I haven't seen an expiration date on any bottle of oil. Once it gets put into an engine, its time is limited but without exposure to any shear, water, oxygen or parts, I can't see any reason why it should be limited. However, I would not want to use 5 or 10 year old oil just because of my own fear.
I just called the mobil1 hotline to ask the question. I asked "Do your synthetic oils have a shelf life?" The answer was "No, not of any appreciable significance. You are fine to use a 10 year old bottle that has been stored in moderate conditions like an unheated garage. The only fear you might have is if you buy a new car after you have stored oil and the car may require a higher rated oil than you have in stock (SL vs. SJ for instance)."
They seem to mostly be saying what Mobil told me: "Ratings changes in the oil industry are the main reason for using new oil." Therefore, I am fine as long as the SL standard is the highest and it is what my engine requires. As far as Shell's recommendation of 3 years, I would believe that for dino oil but they don't make a top shelf synthetic like mobil1. The best I have seen from them has been blends. I am well uner that 3 years anyway. Right now, the way I hear it, the shelf life is "as long as SL is the standard".
Several on the filter board have talked about how important flow is. Using a heavy weight oil is definately a weigh to decrease flow. That will increase the temperature of your engine and you don't get the benefit of less contamination that you do with the filter.
The actual weight of the oil is the first numeric. The second numeric is the weight that the oil will imitate when it is hot, and the elastomers begin "unfolding." That is to say, e.g., 5W-40 oil is 5 weight that can imitate 40 weight when it gets hot.
My local Walmart finally has these again also. But like someone mentioned above, they boosted the price to $18.88/jug ($3.78/qt). I lugged two jugs home, so I'm good for the next 15K.
Has anyone seen these available at the old price recently? If not, I guess this is the new market price.
Just changed over to it on my 91 Accord with 132K miles. Figured the high load of cleaners would not hurt and was not all that more in $ than plain old dino.
I usually change oil at 3K intervals, but drive fast in a hot climate.
I have a VW Golf 2.0, non-turbo. I was running Mobil 1 in it, and decided the cost is too great (car consumes a quart of oil every 1000 miles - no old and worn, just normal VW oil consumption).
To transition from Mobil 1, I put in Mobil Drive Clean Plus, which is a synthetic blend "based on Mobil 1 technology." I figured it would at least mix well with the residual Mobil 1 in my crankcase. I was impressed by its diesel "CF" rating (these ratings have not changed, check out the API website). The CF rating means it can handle a lot of dirt.
I have been changing oil at 3,300 miles (so that every third oil change matches the 10,000 "official" service interval for the VW).
I will probably use up the rest of my 5-30 Mobil Drive Clean Plus on my next oil change, then change to Walmart's house brand ("Supertech") 10-30 semisynthetic blend, which is supposedly a Quaker State oil. It will be less painful to add the two quarts of oil during the oil change cycle. I am hoping tha conventional oil, now that the oils are "hydrocracked," will be sufficient in this car, which revs high. Since I live in a mild climate I will run 10-30 instead of 5-30 for better viscoscity protection.
Any thoughts? (If you want to run the Mobil Drive Clean Plus, Walmart is the cheapest place to buy it, and one of the few places that carries it.)
It's made in a blending plant (Specialty Petroleum) in Shreveport, that was bought by Quaker State (then PZ, then Shell). The plant is due to be closed with the Shell buyout and production (rumored) to be shifted to Shell-- making up for the loss of Equilon (Texaco) production when that went over to Chevron.
Most blends are only about 10% group III, so it might be cheaper to use one quart of ST synthetic with 3 quarts of ST dino.
I am a bit puzzled why you want to run a blend. Considering you change oil every 3333 miles, to hit on the 10K intervals, I would think that using a petroleum based oil would be plenty of protection, and I'd forget the synthetic component altogether.
I've got a brand new Audi that needs a few gulps of oil. Should I introduce a little syn oil or wait till I change the oil and filter before I start using syn wholeheartedly?
You don't need to add oil unless the dipstick truly indicates you need it - check the manual. If you must add oil, ask the dealer what kind of oil it comes with from the factory - many European brands come with 15-40 full synthetic. I'd also ask if they sell this oil at the parts department, and use that to top off.
Your dealer, oddly enough, may not use the Audi branded oil for oil changes; my VW dealer uses Castrol, not VW 15-40, because Castrol is much cheaper. I don't think the "regular" oil you use is that important in the long run (although this board is about nothing but differences in oils!), but for top-off and warranty purposes I think it is worth a trip to the parts counter.
First, let me say that I am mad at Castrol for lowering the quality standards associated with "full synthetic" motor oils. The FAQ link from Chevron gives some background.
Apparently Mobil 1 is the "only" company still using PAO. (I am sure Chevron forgot to mention Amsoil, Redline, etc, which may use PAO).
But the faq is interesting. Scroll down the page to the article "PAO - Down but not Out".
as far as I can tell, the oil that came with the car is 0w30 (probably dino). I was going to tap off with 5w30 Mobile 1. I plan on doing an oil and filter change at 5k with syn. I just wanted to make sure there would be no issues with blending a syn and dino.
Thing is, the car comes with free maintenance for 1st 4 years. Believe it or not, they're recommending oil changes at 10k intervals. I almost don't want to waste the syn oil at 5k if that's the case. Maybe I'll just bring my own oil to the dealer.
I changed over to Mobil 1 10W30 this weekend. 2000 Maxima V6 5 Speed, 39000 miles. I do feel that the engine revs noticably smoother than before.
Used to use Castrol GTX, then to Castrol Syntec 10W30 for the last two oil changes. Decided recently to go full synthetic. I typically changed oil and filter(Pureone) at 5000 to 7000 mile intervals, depending on chance to do oil change. I drive 100 plus miles per day, 99% highway.
After reading some of the 5000 plus posts in this forum, I am planning to extend the change interval to 10,000 miles, due to better lubrication properties of full synthetic. Now when I wring the VQ to 6 grand, I don't feel so guilty about doing it. This motor was made to redline.
I have gone in the opposite direction with my Maxima (26k, 2000 SE 5spd). It's been on Mobil1 diet since 10k but in the past two changes I've switched to Castrol GTX and then Chevron Supreme. One problem that I (and other Maxima owners) have had is an intermittent oil light flash at startup with Mobil1. This problem has disappeared since I've started using quality dino oils. I have to note that my driving is different than yours: mostly city, with occasional 120-300 mi highway trips. Whatever oil schedule you decide on, make sure you follow it closely with an oil analysis, at least initially.
Hey Micweb. If your VW is consuming one quart of oil per 1000 miles, it is in the ballpark to have the engine rebuilt if you jump through VW's hoops of having an oil consumption test done. Ask your dealer. There is a TSB on this issue.
I have a 2001 VW Beetle GL 5 speed with the 2.0 liter engine. In mostly high speed (70 to 80 mph) highway driving, the engine was consuming 1 quart per 1500 to 2000 miles when I was using Mobil 1 5W-30. The 5 speed revs higher than the automatic because of different gearing. As an aside, this car would benefit from a taller 5th gear or the 6 speed gearbox VW is making.
My local Autozone used to carry Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 (see http://www.havoline.com/products/na/motoroil_smo_tech.html and scroll down to see 5W-40). With this oil, my oil consumption has decreased to one quart per 5000 miles. I picked up some more of this oil at a Texaco near Seguin, TX on a cross country drive.
My local Autozone here in Miami, FL now carries Mobil 1 0W-40 European car formula. The synthetic havoline was $3.29 versus close to $5 and up for Mobil 1.
I have also seen Lubro-moly 5w-40 listed at http://www.germanautoparts.com/ (click on Chemicals and Lubricants). It is expensive.
For perspective, I had a 1995 VW Cabrio 5 speed with the 2.0 engine. That car consumed 1 quart of oil for the entire 100,000 miles I owned it. I have kept in touch with the new owner, and it is still running strong.
My 1995 VW Cabrio consumed one quart of oil per 3000 miles for the entire time I owned the car. Hey VW and Audi owners, I would love to hear what oil consumption you experience with the engine in your vehicle. William
Thanks, particularly for the Halvoline at Autozone info. I didn't know that this oil was available at all. I have been using the 5-30 alternate authorized by VW.
I own a 93 Integra, and from day one religiously changed the oil every 3k miles using 10W-40. I mostly used Quaker State or Castrol with Fram filters. At 102k I decided to switch to Mobil1 and still using Fram filters. I have been given mix signals about how long before to change it again. I thought since Mobile 1 is a synthetic oil it should last longer than the 3k. Some have told me to keep up the 3k miles schedule even with Mobile 1.
The car is basically my station car, maybe 20 miles a week on the average. A rough weekend would consist of 30-40 miles for that week. On an odd occasion, I may decide to take it for a long drive, which would mean 120 miles all around, but this is on an occasion only. All other trips are done on the minivan.
Given the info above, how often should I change since I am now using Mobile 1?
If I'm not mistaken don't you run M1 to about 15k intervals? What type of filters do you use and have you ever had oil analysis done? If so how often? I just started using M1 in an older Lexus and I'm thinking of trying it on a year old Sequoia. Would like to go the max on intervals.
Some of the issues with higher mileage cars and synthetics are that there is a belief that one can switch and immediately go to extended drains. Well, most petroleum oils leave a varnish and residue even if changed every 3000 miles, some may not. To assume you can go from dino 3000 mile changes to Mobil 1 and 10,000 mile changes I feel is incorrect. yes, you can do so but I would suggest doing so gradually over a period of time, say 3-4 oil changes. Or, an engine cleaner prior to switching over. Thus, this would turn most people off and they would normally say stick with dino every 3000. Few want to spend the money for analysis at the 5000 mile mark or so to see if the oil is holding up after the conversion etc. Plus, many higher mileage engines do seep oil for a period of time after conversion and most stop, some do not. There are a zillion engines out there over 200,000 miles using petroleum oil their entire life, synthetics are not the holy grail of protection.
these comments are strictly based upon my ten years of using synthetics and converting about 4 engines to synthetic along the way. (no science involved here but I do have reams of oil analysis print outs) Over 100,000 miles, quite honestly I would stay with what has worked until then and not bother.
About 99 cents a quart at Costco; claims to be "Isoclear" but no mention of hydrocracking at their website (although there is available information about Isoclear being a form of paraffin removal, and about Chevron inventing hydrocracking).
I am thinking of running the 10-30 through my VW Golf. On 3,300 mile intervals. What do you think?
Oil consumption on the VW has gone down to 1/2 quart per 1,000 miles since I switched from Mobil 1 to Mobil Drive Clean semi-synthetic in 5-30 weight; previously 1 quart per thousand with Mobil 1 (because Mobil 1 5-30 is on the low end of the viscosity scale?). Any comments?
The Wal-Mart in Manchester, NH has the M1 5 quart jugs for $18.88 if anyone in the area is interested. This is the first time I've ever seen them there.
Just purchase two 5qts from Wally-world a couple of night ago (5/30). A bit under 20 buckaroos each....if memory serves correctly. Best price in town that I could find.
I would love to hear what your experience is with the Chevron Supreme 10W-30. I would be even more curious to hear what happens to your oil consumption and fuel mileage if you went to 10W-40 oil. I agree with you that there is no point in using synthetic oil if you are changing the oil every 3300 miles.
"If I'm not mistaken don't you run M1 to about 15k intervals? What type of filters do you use and have you ever had oil analysis done? If so how often? I just started using M1 in an older Lexus and I'm thinking of trying it on a year old Sequoia. Would like to go the max on intervals."
No you are not mistaken. I do run M1 to app 15k intervals. The filters I use are normally OEM. OEM for me means: the Toyota, AC Delco PF44, and just recently the VW (TDI filters) (any of the three named brands). I am also considering the Super Tech brand, (Wal Mart for 1.97 ea 24/7 price) for the specific one for my Z06 Corvette is made by Champion Labs. I also will go to the Super Tech brand for my TLC's Toyota Landcruisers (PF53 equivalent) when my OEM stash runs out in a couple of years.
For me oil analysis is just as important for conventional oil as well as synthetic. What is at issue 99/100% of the time is the perceived as well as real, extra cost. I do spot oil analysis. I would recommend that oil analysis be done if there is ANY doubt. For me, I have no doubt, but I do like to ocassionally confirm that things are going well or even if it will help me spot a less than perfect trend.
I think you will have no problems on both the older Lexus and the one year old Sequoia in switching to M1. While I have not familiarized myself with the above vehicle's technical data,if it is like most manufacturer's, then 15k oil intervals (synthetic M1) will almost be a no brainer. In the case of the older Lexus, the only real issue is that since you have been using conventional oil for most of it's life, you may or may not have a engine sludge issue. I do not say this to alarm you, for the chances are that you do NOT have sludge. The bottom line is that there will be some detergent action if you do have it, so do not be alarmed if the M1 oil gets dirty a tad sooner than normal.
I have also recently added a 2003 VW TDI (diesel) to the mix and in terms of interchange ability, sad to say, M1 does not fill the bill, except for an emergency. I am using a Mobil synthetic product called Delvac1 5w-40 for the diesel. Curiously the Delvac1 is backwards compatible with the Mobil 1 (SJ rating, not the new SL rating). So in a pinch I can use Delvac1 and or Mobil One interchangeably on the gassers. However, since the gassers call for 0,5,10w-30, I will only use the Delvac1 for the gassers in a pinch and vice versa. Incidently, since VW is rumored to be more maintenance prone, I will keep the VW recommended 10k oil change interval under the 4 yr 50k warranty period. After that I will go to the 15k or one year period.
As a transition away from Mobil 1 5-30, I figured I would first go to Mobil Drive Clean Semi Synthetic 5-30.
Curiously enough, I have only used a half quart of oil in 2,000 miles, whereas with the Mobil 1 I was using about 1 quart every 1,000 miles.
I'll monitor and let you know about the oil consumption on this non-turbo. I have enough Drive Clean for one more oil change, then it's on to Chevron Supreme 10-30 from Costco (.99 a quart!).
Comments
I just called the mobil1 hotline to ask the question. I asked "Do your synthetic oils have a shelf life?" The answer was "No, not of any appreciable significance. You are fine to use a 10 year old bottle that has been stored in moderate conditions like an unheated garage. The only fear you might have is if you buy a new car after you have stored oil and the car may require a higher rated oil than you have in stock (SL vs. SJ for instance)."
http://www.rotella.com/answerresult.php3?rowid=48
and these folks, whoever they are, seem to concur.
http://lubricants.s5.com/shelf.htm
I think Click and Clack here give the best advice... old oil gets used in lawnmowers.
http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1995/September/11.html
TB
It did work very well in my 1987 LeSabre at 10K change intervals 8^)
TB
Besides, the GM 3.8L V6 has an external bypass as well, an doesn't rely on the bypass in the filter.
BTW, Wal*Mart was pretty good about taking back that last gallon jug of the stuff this morning and three loose quarts of 10W40 Valvoline Maxlife.
I got two 5 quart jugs of Castrol GTX 5W30 and a 20# bag of dog food for my exchange and a couple of bux 8^)
I was briefly tempted to return the Rotella T to my Advance Auto Parts that charges nearly DOUBLE for the oil and get a case+ of the Castrol.
TB
Has anyone seen these available at the old price recently? If not, I guess this is the new market price.
Just changed over to it on my 91 Accord with 132K miles. Figured the high load of cleaners would not hurt and was not all that more in $ than plain old dino.
I usually change oil at 3K intervals, but drive fast in a hot climate.
Comments
To transition from Mobil 1, I put in Mobil Drive Clean Plus, which is a synthetic blend "based on Mobil 1 technology." I figured it would at least mix well with the residual Mobil 1 in my crankcase. I was impressed by its diesel "CF" rating (these ratings have not changed, check out the API website). The CF rating means it can handle a lot of dirt.
I have been changing oil at 3,300 miles (so that every third oil change matches the 10,000 "official" service interval for the VW).
I will probably use up the rest of my 5-30 Mobil Drive Clean Plus on my next oil change, then change to Walmart's house brand ("Supertech") 10-30 semisynthetic blend, which is supposedly a Quaker State oil. It will be less painful to add the two quarts of oil during the oil change cycle. I am hoping tha conventional oil, now that the oils are "hydrocracked," will be sufficient in this car, which revs high. Since I live in a mild climate I will run 10-30 instead of 5-30 for better viscoscity protection.
Any thoughts? (If you want to run the Mobil Drive Clean Plus, Walmart is the cheapest place to buy it, and one of the few places that carries it.)
Most blends are only about 10% group III, so it might be cheaper to use one quart of ST synthetic with 3 quarts of ST dino.
Your dealer, oddly enough, may not use the Audi branded oil for oil changes; my VW dealer uses Castrol, not VW 15-40, because Castrol is much cheaper. I don't think the "regular" oil you use is that important in the long run (although this board is about nothing but differences in oils!), but for top-off and warranty purposes I think it is worth a trip to the parts counter.
Apparently Mobil 1 is the "only" company still using PAO. (I am sure Chevron forgot to mention Amsoil, Redline, etc, which may use PAO).
But the faq is interesting. Scroll down the page to the article "PAO - Down but not Out".
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/baseoils/articles.shtml
Thing is, the car comes with free maintenance for 1st 4 years. Believe it or not, they're recommending oil changes at 10k intervals. I almost don't want to waste the syn oil at 5k if that's the case. Maybe I'll just bring my own oil to the dealer.
I don't think it will hurt to blend in Mobil 1-5-30. Both oils are PAO (not PAO and Group III hydrocracked). So they have ideal compatibility.
Used to use Castrol GTX, then to Castrol Syntec 10W30 for the last two oil changes. Decided recently to go full synthetic. I typically changed oil and filter(Pureone) at 5000 to 7000 mile intervals, depending on chance to do oil change. I drive 100 plus miles per day, 99% highway.
After reading some of the 5000 plus posts in this forum, I am planning to extend the change interval to 10,000 miles, due to better lubrication properties of full synthetic. Now when I wring the VQ to 6 grand, I don't feel so guilty about doing it. This motor was made to redline.
I have a 2001 VW Beetle GL 5 speed with the 2.0 liter engine. In mostly high speed (70 to 80 mph) highway driving, the engine was consuming 1 quart per 1500 to 2000 miles when I was using Mobil 1 5W-30. The 5 speed revs higher than the automatic because of different gearing. As an aside, this car would benefit from a taller 5th gear or the 6 speed gearbox VW is making.
My local Autozone used to carry Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 (see http://www.havoline.com/products/na/motoroil_smo_tech.html and scroll down to see 5W-40). With this oil, my oil consumption has decreased to one quart per 5000 miles. I picked up some more of this oil at a Texaco near Seguin, TX on a cross country drive.
My local Autozone here in Miami, FL now carries Mobil 1 0W-40 European car formula. The synthetic havoline was $3.29 versus close to $5 and up for Mobil 1.
I have also seen Lubro-moly 5w-40 listed at http://www.germanautoparts.com/ (click on Chemicals and Lubricants). It is expensive.
For perspective, I had a 1995 VW Cabrio 5 speed with the 2.0 engine. That car consumed 1 quart of oil for the entire 100,000 miles I owned it. I have kept in touch with the new owner, and it is still running strong.
I am selling my Beetle; see my ad if you are interested at http://classifieds.autos.yahoo.com/class/detail.html?srid=&ci- d=automobiles-1053002275-9152213
William
The car is basically my station car, maybe 20 miles a week on the average. A rough weekend would consist of 30-40 miles for that week. On an odd occasion, I may decide to take it for a long drive, which would mean 120 miles all around, but this is on an occasion only. All other trips are done on the minivan.
Given the info above, how often should I change since I am now using Mobile 1?
Krzys
Forgive my laziness for not doing a search!
these comments are strictly based upon my ten years of using synthetics and converting about 4 engines to synthetic along the way. (no science involved here but I do have reams of oil analysis print outs) Over 100,000 miles, quite honestly I would stay with what has worked until then and not bother.
I am thinking of running the 10-30 through my VW Golf. On 3,300 mile intervals. What do you think?
Oil consumption on the VW has gone down to 1/2 quart per 1,000 miles since I switched from Mobil 1 to Mobil Drive Clean semi-synthetic in 5-30 weight; previously 1 quart per thousand with Mobil 1 (because Mobil 1 5-30 is on the low end of the viscosity scale?). Any comments?
Anyone else notice this at their local store?
SL for $9.95.
What is different between Super Syn vs Tri Syn in terms of technically speaking????
Help
Thanks
"If I'm not mistaken don't you run M1 to about 15k intervals? What type of filters do you use and have you ever had oil analysis done? If so how often? I just started using M1 in an older Lexus and I'm thinking of trying it on a year old Sequoia. Would like to go the max on intervals."
No you are not mistaken. I do run M1 to app 15k intervals. The filters I use are normally OEM. OEM for me means: the Toyota, AC Delco PF44, and just recently the VW (TDI filters) (any of the three named brands). I am also considering the Super Tech brand, (Wal Mart for 1.97 ea 24/7 price) for the specific one for my Z06 Corvette is made by Champion Labs. I also will go to the Super Tech brand for my TLC's Toyota Landcruisers (PF53 equivalent) when my OEM stash runs out in a couple of years.
For me oil analysis is just as important for conventional oil as well as synthetic. What is at issue 99/100% of the time is the perceived as well as real, extra cost. I do spot oil analysis. I would recommend that oil analysis be done if there is ANY doubt. For me, I have no doubt, but I do like to ocassionally confirm that things are going well or even if it will help me spot a less than perfect trend.
I think you will have no problems on both the older Lexus and the one year old Sequoia in switching to M1. While I have not familiarized myself with the above vehicle's technical data,if it is like most manufacturer's, then 15k oil intervals (synthetic M1) will almost be a no brainer. In the case of the older Lexus, the only real issue is that since you have been using conventional oil for most of it's life, you may or may not have a engine sludge issue. I do not say this to alarm you, for the chances are that you do NOT have sludge. The bottom line is that there will be some detergent action if you do have it, so do not be alarmed if the M1 oil gets dirty a tad sooner than normal.
I have also recently added a 2003 VW TDI (diesel) to the mix and in terms of interchange ability, sad to say, M1 does not fill the bill, except for an emergency. I am using a Mobil synthetic product called Delvac1 5w-40 for the diesel. Curiously the Delvac1 is backwards compatible with the Mobil 1 (SJ rating, not the new SL rating). So in a pinch I can use Delvac1 and or Mobil One interchangeably on the gassers. However, since the gassers call for 0,5,10w-30, I will only use the Delvac1 for the gassers in a pinch and vice versa. Incidently, since VW is rumored to be more maintenance prone, I will keep the VW recommended 10k oil change interval under the 4 yr 50k warranty period. After that I will go to the 15k or one year period.
As a transition away from Mobil 1 5-30, I figured I would first go to Mobil Drive Clean Semi Synthetic 5-30.
Curiously enough, I have only used a half quart of oil in 2,000 miles, whereas with the Mobil 1 I was using about 1 quart every 1,000 miles.
I'll monitor and let you know about the oil consumption on this non-turbo. I have enough Drive Clean for one more oil change, then it's on to Chevron Supreme 10-30 from Costco (.99 a quart!).