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Comments
The manual calls for 6.5 qts. (with dry new filter)
On the track, the video says you can put an extra quart (7.5 qt total) due to high lateral side loading which may induce an oil starvation condition at higher G load.
I do oil filter changes when I do oil changes. FRAM has a mixed reputation. But over time (14 years) I ran FRAM PH8A filters in Toyota Landcruisers, one of which went app 250k miles and that was with 15k interval oil and filter changes. This one was dealer serviced and the valve covers were taken off every 15k for valve adjustment. The mechanics always reported (17 times) very clean innards.
Much of the wear (half and above) in todays engines are unmitigated, which can be mitigated by preoilers. Synthetic really only mitigates part of the wear, but over the course of an engines useful life can be significant.
An installed bypass system is US$ 500 or more, a preoiler in most cases closer to US$ 1000.
I have an Amsoil dual filter bypass system on my 2001 Echo and after inquiring about the installed cost of a preoiler it seems cheaper to install a good used engine if and when the engine fails, probably not before 300k miles.
On a tractor trailer costing US$ 100000 a preoiler seems like a minor investment and worth doing. For the general public it seems a waste of money unless done just for the heck of it.
http://www.streetortrack.com/preoileraccessories.asp
While I do not doubt that the products you cite cost what they cost, the fact of the matter is here are two references with the aftermarket prices quoted. I am mindful of the fact that oem vehicle manufacturers want their product to last a long time but as you have pointed out NOT that LONG. The goal is to sell product be it new cars every year or oil changes every 3k or less.
So really the aftermarket costs can be way lower if there significant demand for them.
bicycles for over 60 years. (They're one of the
very best forms of exercise, and I try to ride
about 2,000 miles a year.)
Anyway, to the point....chains and sprockets:
Other synthetics may do as well, but Amsoil 75-90
used for chain lube is EXCELLENT !
Bike shops sell lots of high-priced chain lubes,
and I've found the Amsoil beats them about three
times over.
If you love bicycling, you'll love Amsoil for
your bike.
kept at all times to use for its intended purpose.
One day, about 20 years ago, I said, why not use
it for chain lube....
(Realize that a bicycle chain life varies in quality and what kind of environment it is used in.)
My statement that Amsoil "gear lube" makes a
most excellent chain lube came about because I
simply decided to try it.
Was just passing along something. Try it !
Before I go, when was the last time you threw a
leg over a bike ?
If you really ride, how many miles / year ??
Broke it in on Mobil l and kept it up for 86,000...
The front harmonic balancer seal started leaking...
When I tore it down, the seal was hard as a rock..
Had to go to the Ford dealership and buy a new
harmonic balancer because it was "cut" too
deaply...
Other cars/trucks I operated at that time were
on Amsoil...
Go ahead, say I didn't give Mobil 1 a good test.
I did. It hardened that seal...
Amsoil has never done that for me.
"Before I go, when was the last time you threw a
leg over a bike ?
If you really ride, how many miles / year ??"
I don't really ride a lot! I would guess NTE 3700 per year.
It just ain't so.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Just the kind of comment I'd expect...
A damned lie !!
We can debate here, but that sort of accusation is out of line.
Jack
My APOLOGY !!
Sort'a strange how worked-up people get about
this subject...
ALL I was trying to say was use a synthetic gear
lube for chain lube...
Geesh !!!
Currently, I used Mobil One 5w30 on my chains. To keep them clean, I shoot them with Simple Green or a like product and for those stubborn luggies, use an old nylon tooth brush. 75w-90 sounds pretty good and will probably not add any significant effort. So again since I have Mobil One 75w90 on hand I just go from one bottle to the other.
WOW! That sounds a LOT to me! Unless you live in a warm climate and ride it year round!
This is off-topic, but UBI stands for United
Bicycle Institute....
Lots of people ask questions, and I've given
advice....
Perhaps you'd like to join in the discussions :
http://www.bikeschool.com/index2.html
bottom brackets and head bearings, and they
FAILED...
Bicycles are VERY hard on bearings, for example,
at every tear-down for routine clean and lube,
the bearings should be replaced, not re-used....
Why ? Because ball bearings microscopicly elongate. They're not perfectly round after any
use at all...
Bicycles are extremely hard on bearings and the
kind of lube used....
Hi-temp automotive grease for disc brake wheel
bearings is the "ticket", and petroleum based
seems the best....
Haven't ever figured out why ???
Just my home-baked idea, but, it seems like
synthetic greases don't have the "shock-absorber"
ability that petroleum provides.
Big disappointment....didn't ever want to admit
that synthetics were inferior in some kind'a way.
One thing the Amsoil dealer told me, I won't
forget, the base stock for Amsoil is ester,
produced from alcohol.
He described if you'd drop a rubber band into a
glass of alcohol, the robber band would soften
and practically dissolve.
That's how he explained why my gaskets and seals
never gave any trouble, but petroleum based oils
tend to harden and shrink them.
Made sense...
thread....
(Just an example, I'm simply trying to "help",
and am not here to get into any kind of arguments.)
______________________________________________
"I thought Jiffy Lube had to buy from Pennzoil"
I've used Pennzoil chassis lube for lots of years.
Was helping a friend last summer change-out the
ball joints on his old Lincoln. From the color
of the grease around the grease fittings I could
tell that his car was using something like the
cheapest Pennzoil.
I asked him, where do you get your car greased ?
He said Jiffy Lube.
So, I asked, did you know that Jiffy Lube uses
the cheapest Pennzoil greases, there are much
better that Pennzoil makes, but they have to use
what Pennzoil "tells them to" ?
He said, "I didn't know that."
"Well, now you know."
maybe a very small percentage of the hydrocarbons come from dino flesh....
but it does denote the time line/origen
how about lets try to figure out a new, better term, and keep using it....and perhaps in a few years it will be listed in websters..... seriously...... !
websters added 20,000 new meanings last year, and took away a few too....some words too archaic or obtuse that nobody living is using it... :-)
Okay CPD oil!
Okay CPB oil!
I would be tempted to use it on my 97 Golf. Will I hose my engine (78k) if I convert this late in the game?
Amsoil (because of its base stock) can actually
swell gaskets and seals....
Stop leaks....
I've proven it in old junkers...
Keep on "preachn'" ....
any body else have any feedback ???
thanks .
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
Will give both of us a lot of information.
I have no idea what the final conclusions will
be.
Let's stay "open minded".
My advice, use Pennzoil every 4k or so, or Schaeffer's or Castrol blend every 5 or 6k.
The spacebears test added lots of fresh oil between the change interval which means that the results may not relate to your situation if you're not using a lot of oil between changes.
GM dealers sell Delco UPF-44 filters that seem to have great filtering ability and great flow, a tough combination to find.
BTW, w/ a 5.7, I guess your Suburban is at least 5 years old. And 16k on it?
Of course, you should change oil/filter at least once a year regardless of mileage.
Happy Motoring,
Jack
any body else have any feedback ???
thanks . "
I would not have any concerns with Redline, Amsoil or Mobil One. Mobil One 5w30 is the OEM fill for my Chevy 5.7 L V-8. 385 hp/torque. I have been doing 15k intervals with (AC Delco PF44 oil filters, picked up an armful at the Daly City, CA, KMart
All the rest of the cars had non-engine related problems that caused me to unload 'em. Sloppy front ends, major brake jobs, transmission failures, etc.
Lessons-- Some people go nuts over oil worrying about oil, lots of people abuse their cars by never changing it. Most cars engines given a 4K change cycle with any SL oil will last a lot longer than the cars that surround them.
their advice.
Their number that I use for ordering is :
1-800-956-5695
I'm sure they can transfer your call to someone
in customer service.
(I'm currently using the Amsoil 5 - 30 that is
recommended for 25,000 miles or up to one year.)
purchase of Amsoil products caused their accounting department in Superior, Wisconsin to call me.
They politely informed me that my bank had returned their charge against my ATM card.
I inquired "Why?"
They said, "There was no reason given."
I had already received the products, and here was
Amsoil trying to get payment.
But they were VERY polite.
I asked, "Give me instructions, and I'll mail a
check today."
As soon as that check and some others cleared,
I moved to another bank. I'd had some other
problems at the bank about that same time.
This little "episode" was handled very well by
Amsoil.
Standing in some of their checkout lines, sometimes for an hour, is a "pain".
I pick up the phone, spend about 3 minutes,
and bingo. Five or six days later, here
comes UPS.
Love it
the Amsoil 100 to 1 2-cycle oil for over 10 years.
This mix cuts down considerably on "blue smoke" that 2-cycle engines throw out. (Don't have to
smell as much oil "stink".)
If anyone has used Amsoil 100 to 1 vs. some other
similar oil, I'd be interested in hearing their
comparisons. Particularly if another brand
reduces "blue smoke" better than Amsoil.
The spark plug deposits will be a BRICK RED !!...
I've never seen this before...
So, I showed the mechanic at my local small engine
repair shop what a strange color....
He laughed, "Yes, there are some oils that contain
an additive that will cause that bright red color."
If you look at this chart, there WON'T be anything
that will cover such a "brick red"....
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchar- t.htm
"Vortecs seem to throw out lots of Copper (and Iron). Therefore, I wouldn't use a synthetic looking for a longer drain, unless you go to a bypass filter setup."
The wear metals, in all probability, will be way to small in size to cause any additional wear. they certainly are too small to be captured by a full flow filter and as the engine breaks in these wear metals gradually decrease as well. I have a GM that throws off lots of copper too but over the first 50,000 miles it has decreased dramatically and I go 12,000 mile oil change intervals. From 400 ppm at first change to under 75 ppm now with the same interval. it is primarily dirt that causes wear.
Kevin