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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Something that helped with the plastic catalyst film was leaving the windows open slightly when the car is parked outside.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Or if a car thief happens by, then not only do you have no film, you have no car!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks for the info. Toyota dealership quoted me $1220 to do this job for both axles. Said left one cost $400 and the right one $440. Said 5 to 6 hours of labor costs. Told them this was outrageous. Called around. Pep Boys said they can do this job for around $170 per axle, labor included.
Original Toyota parts are outrageously expensive.
I guess they don't want to be in the repair business with that kind of pricing.
It's normal to have high RPM in cold starts because the engine is designed not to shift into higher gears until it's warm enough. It actually protects the engine. Try warming up for a couple of minutes before you drive off.
The lag/surge problem is another issue. Have your dealer check the transmission. Make sure you have an ATF (automatic transmission fluid) appropriate for below-freezing temperature.
Good luck!
Tony
Called Georgetown, wrote lots of registered mail--have file two inches thick. Finally got tired of renting cars when have to travel on business, so dumped it at a $7,000 loss at 1800 miles. The kicker is, I got a call from the next buyer, wanting to know why I got rid of it. How they got my name, number, etc., don't know. Told about the brakes, and would be happy to show my file. Get this--when they asked the dealership why the mileage was so low, they told her it was a repo. hahahahaha AND I PAID CASH! I had a Toyota in the past and was very happy with it, so . . . Toyota makes a heck of a good car, but if you get stuck with a problem, you are on your own. I even told the regional manager that I was getting rid of it, and would Toyota work with me toward an Avalon? They wanted to sell me an extended warranty!
Another Toyota for me? Not in this lifetime.
The wife's '01 Altima has great brakes which catch quicker and have much better modulation. As we are in the market to replace the Corolla, I really want a '03 Corolla, but will not get one if the brakes feel the same as our previous Toyotas. A shame really, because I really want the new Corolla...kinda looks like a baby Lexus!
The Sandman :-(
I was however pleasantly impressed that the Pep Boys could do it for $170 a side - that is a good price. I hope you take it, I mean, replacing the half axles isn't rocket science, so the Toyota dealer is pricing itself right out of the market.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
.... NO ! keep it to yourself .... better yet you must fix the problems on your own...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
As to chirping, just a belt that heats up after a few minutes and the noise dissappears. Try cleaning the belt, the OTC belt lubricants sometimes work, most of the time make it worse. try to wipe the belt as best you can with a cloth and see if that helps.
I mentioned the frequent sulfur whiff and that I have never ever ever been able to get the spectacular fuel consumption numbers in the brochure ever since I bought the car. In fact, if I drive the camry expecting the same average acceleration as my Gmv6, it actually uses more fuel in city driving. I drive them both interchangeably.
Dealer replaced the MAS sensor, and said they measured 5.8L/100km. This was two weeks ago. Also said something about too much fuel causing sulfur smell etc. Well, the fuel consumption hasn't changed so far, almost seems to have worsened.
Also, both drivers have noticed that the camry LE now runs and accelerates rougher, or seems to have less torque on acceleration.
Can anyone provide some explanation for this. If I traded off fuel economy for smoothness & torque, maybe the dealer should have asked me which one I prefer. Haven't had any sign of sulfur smell yet, but may be too early to tell..same for fuel consumption.
Any ideas?
The pwr steering fluid level is within range, though.
Do you think a power steering flush and fill helps?
Also I don't hear any noise while making a turn, though.
The pwr steering fluid level is within range, though.
Do you think a power steering flush and fill might help?
Also I don't hear any noise while making a turn, though.
Any ideas?
If you hear the steering pump whining loudly when you turn the wheels with the car stopped (ie more than normal) the pump may be beginning to go. Also, the turning should have linear effort, it should not be easy to turn, and then all of a sudden get a lot more difficult as you continue to turn.
If you have no pump whine and this thing has a lot of miles on it, the rack itself may be getting worn. Cross your fingers it is not that - that is more than $1000 for most Toyotas.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
When they gave me the car back it had a very low idle speed and almost no power. i only drove it a block but power was so bad I went back. The mechanic had left. Another mechanic said to me " I told him it was 3 teeth off". he then changed the distributor timing to get it to run and i had to come back the next day to have it fixed.
Who were they having work on my car? A trainee?
I paid steak prices for hamburger.
From her description, the steering is vibrating at idle speed, as soon the RMP above 1000, the problem goes away. Also she mentioned, the RMP was fluctuating at idle (750 RMP).
Anyone knows the fix ? Thanks in advance
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The stalling only occurs after I have been running at highway speeds (55 mph or higher) for 5 minutes or more. Then, after I exit the highway or come to a stop, the rpm's drop below normal, the car starts to buck (like it's only hitting on 1 or 2 cylinders) and then it cuts off. It starts right back up, and then isn't a problem. The warmer the weather, the worse the problem (with the temp below 50 degrees, it doesn't happen). Another symptom: If I don't have to stop right after getting off the highway, the problem occurs whenever the next stop happens.
I can avoid the stallout by putting it in neutral and revving the engine briefly to about 4K rpm. But that's a bit of a pain.
The repair shop suggested unplugging the EGR valve. I did that for a week, but the problem didn't go away.
There are no engine codes showing up.
This seems to be a fairly common problem, judging from the alt.toyota groups, but NO ONE seems to have a definitive answer. Possibilities per the alt groups are fuel filter and throttle position sensor.
The repair shop has suggested replacing the fuel filter (no guarantees from them that it will be fixed by this), which is relatively inexpensive, but I've read on Edmunds that that can be dicey, and isn't even recommended by Toyota.
I'm at a loss for ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
Unfortunately, that she had tried fuel injector cleaner, but no improvement!
Anyway, the windshield washer pump does not work and the fuse is good. Any know where it's located and how to fix? Thx.
Anyway, the windshield washer pump does not work and the fuse is good. Any know where it's located and how to fix? Thx.
The Mazda6 group says the only issue with thier new car is the sunglass holder and the heated seat not getting that warm.
The Toyota forums is all over the place with issues.
The Accord forum will note 1 issue while somebody says it's either not true of problem has been resolved.
All I would like to know if possible is what are the main problems with the 2003 Accord and are they either fixable or livable.
BTW Im not here to slam any 1 car just want to select the best for my family.
Thanks in advance.
Happy Holiday to all.
anyways, i ended up buying a camry LE... here's what i thought about each of the others.
1) mazda 6i(AT) - weak acceleration from a stop, good handling, pretty nice interior, nice size, great exterior, reasonable price... but i personally don''t like to rev high and turn out of cornes quickly, so the 6 just wasn't right for me at this point. you need to get a stick to enjoy this car
2) accord lx(AT) - overall very good, almost as quiet as the camry, nice interior, good handles, nice size.... BUT i just could not stnad the back of the car and would not be happy with seeing that car. the exterior is the ONLY reason I did not get an accord (and plus i wanted something different, my brother had the 96 accord).
--> i got the camry because i think it as luxurious as i can afford right now,looks elegant, and good accelaration... what i don't like: the car is too big, i like smaller cars, and the size is the one complaint i have. it isn't very good at handling. but it is a small price for the amount of comfort and luxury that you get. hope this helps you. good luck!