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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sounds like a good project for JRGO! Who yesterday posted his latest project, a very broken 2007 M6 V10 SMG. Would could possibly go wrong there?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The kicker is how they turned the engine around because the chain doesn't have to be serviced. Truth. The chain will be fine...
Car ran fine anyway, got a compliment and some looks, only had to honk at one non-signaling gormless twit posing as a motorist.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u38q5NqXt8M
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also ordered the set of Coco mats. I am glad I had them send me templates before I ordered - I needed some modifications. The car has rubber floors in front, which I fear won't age perfectly forever - the driver's side has a couple cracks not there 25 years ago. They'll look good, and I am getting a console mat for free.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
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the issue usually becomes, not having the tools and equipment. If I had a lift of some sort, a good set of mechanics hand tools, an air compressor and impact tools, a fancy (and expensive) scan tool, all those odd ball tools that make jobs so much easier, a workshop with presses and welding equipment, and a couple of people that know what they are doing always hanging around with nothing to do, I would be a lot more likely to work on my own cars!
Though right now since they are both new and under warranty, nothing to work on anyway.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
So what would happen is, I’d ask him to borrow a tool and end up getting a helper too.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
Fintail is now at the shop for yearly service and some maintenance. I suspect I might not come in under my 1K budget this time.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Years ago I got to the point where I saw cars I recall being new in the junkyard, now I see cars I remember as new when I felt I was getting older in the junkyard, and cars from my high school/college days being 6 figure BaT material.
Because the damage to the upper control arm was due to the somewhat unique design of the ball joint on that unit and my using a standard separator, one of the tools was a ball joint separator that is a press-type (like this).
The other tool is crimping pliers for the CV boot band. I also ordered a couple more sockets to better deal with the seemingly endless ways manufacturers come up with to torture us when trying to replace struts. I managed to muddle my way through with a combination of using tools in ways they were never meant to be used, brute force, and dumb luck (i.e., my usual method!). However, I hope that next time I go to replace struts, I will have all of the probable options covered!
Now, when I used the separator to disassemble the passenger side (for the strut replacement), the joint required so much pressure to finally knock it loose (banging the joint with a hammer while under pressure did not help it to let go) that the end of the bolt was actually crushing under the pressure. As such, I had to go through the same ritual with the grinder as I did last time. Happily, I was able to remove a small enough piece and spent extra time shaping what was left that I was able to get the nut on smoothly as well as being able to use the Torx holder. So, I'm *not* replacing that control arm!
Then, with the CV boot, I figured the most difficult piece would be separating the joint and putting it back together.... No! That was the easy part. The hart part turned out to be getting the final clamping band in place! The small one worked fine - crimped down, no issues. The larger one was just a little too small to fit into place, regardless of what I tried. I messed with it for about an hour-and-a-half before I finally quit in disgust. It just wasn't worth the effort! Instead, I went to NAPA, showed them my band and explained my predicament, and they had a different band for me in about a minute's time. I went home, slapped it on, crimped it down.... done! However, this was not the fault of the tool; that part worked really well.
For the struts, the factory Sachs units had this sort of oval-racetrack-looking shape (like this) on the ends to the strut rods (as opposed to the vastly more common hex end fitting I'm used to seeing) I didn't have anything to hold those so I started with taking my impact driver to the nut to do an initial loosening, then put my through-socket ratchet on the nut and reached through with some needle-nose pliers to hold the oval end. On two, this was no big problem, but the other two were much more stubborn to turn, so the pliers couldn't handle the twisting without flexing. I added some vice grips to the head of the needle-nose to reinforce them, and the combination seemed to do the trick... if not a little awkwardly!
With blessed relief, the replacement Bilstein units had the hex ends on them, so they went back together free of fanfare! All in all, a massive amount of work on these compared to replacing struts on my Subarus or anything else I've ever owned. Just as easy once the assembly was out of the car, but taking them out and putting them back in was... challenging.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
Edmunds Price Checker
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!
MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
Edmunds Price Checker
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!
MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Pic of the last car on the list (which has become a landmark design IMO) loaded for me, the first gen CLS:
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The platform designations have become more sequential, often directly, since 2000 or so. No more hopping around, like how W128/180 was replaced by W111/112 (fintails) who were replaced by W108/109, then W116, then W126, then W140. For example, E-class this century has been W210, W211, W212, W213, S-class W220, W221, W222, (soon to be) W223.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Lucky spot 13. The issues were minor - small fuel leak at the fuel pump, mechanic says it is easy. A bolt was troublesome in replacing a rear shock, but they dealt with it without needing to drill. ETA, end of next week.
But it looks like a 171,849 mile truck with a 5 digit odometer.
1995 ford bronco eddie bauer - $19000
Looks clean for a +126k mile truck. I checked power ratings for a 1995 351 Bronco which is rated at only 210 hp but torque was 325 ft-lb. EPA 13 / 17 (14) mpg but hey, it's a Bronco!
1978 F150 4x4 rust free
100% rust free original paint
1977 CHEVROLET C-10 31K MILES
Interesting red Pontiac convertible in the background pics. Can't find the red convertible at the website for Meridian Motors and the phone number is for "jingletruck" which doesn't show anything but miled up utility/service trucks.
If that squarebody was mint original paint, it wouldn't be out of line these days.
Speaking of 90s Ford SUVs, This impresses me - haven't seen a first gen so nice probably since that decade.