Dodge Dakota - General Topic

saskquad · September 2001

I used a small dab of gojo orange citrus hand cleaner with pumice in it, a small fingernail brush ( quite coarse ) dipped in water and small circular motion with excellent results.Just rinse off with water.

bmwjoe · September 2001

The people on the SAAB list say that peanut butter and a tooth brush will remove the white residue. The oil in the peanut butter disolve the wax and does not harm the plastic.

Drive Safe,

Joe

yank2 · September 2001

Get a bottle of black chrome I got my last bottle at Wal-mart works real well been around for a long time. Made by turtle wax.

spike50 · September 2001

The ArmorAll seems to have worked for the most part on the first application, which also begins to prepare the trim for the next waxing (that might happen next year). I'll go back over everything to get the rest off / dissolved. I say dissolved because of the black rubber residue coming off on the rag from doing around the door windows.

Thanks again, I knew someone had been down this road before me.

stnick · September 2001

smooth or chunky? Nick.

bmwjoe · September 2001

I have heard that smooth peanut butter, or peanut oil will work.

Drive Safe,

Joe

ayrow · September 2001

Ok, I am going to post this in a couple places in hopes that somebody out there knows the answer to this.

I bought a nice car alarm for my truck which should arrive any day.

It comes with a key fob that will take the place of my existing one and unlock and lock my existing automatic locks (no factory alarm).

Here are my questions..

1.) Does the 2001 QC have positive locks, or negative?

2.) Where is the best/easiest place to tap into these wires to activate them?

3.) What color are the wires?

Thank you guys! I hope somebody out there has the answer so I don't have to go wire-hunting for hours.

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

namfflow · September 2001

Please don't post the same message in every topic. This is a Maintance question so just put it there. I hate trying to read new posts and keep seeing the same one in every topic. This is one way to assure you don't get a response.

This is nothing more than spamming the board.

bpeebles · September 2001

FWIW... I agree with you.

ayrow · September 2001

Hey! Sorry about that multiple posting thing.

Chill.

Spam??? It's not like I am trying to sell something here! Give me a break!
And it's certainly not like there is an overwhelming amount of posts that one has to read through every day. One never knows which forums get read and it's safe to assume that some Quad Cab owners do not read the general Dakota forum. Posting it in both places might help in the right person reading it. I saw no harm.

Also, am I the only one here that is confused as to why there is a "Dakota Quad Cab" forum AND a "Dakota Quad Cab (pickups)" forum??? What is the difference??? I thought all Quad Cab Dakotas were pickups...

Since there are two forums and no real explanation for it, posting my question on both seemed like a good idea since some people may not be aware of both of them, therefor not read both as well.

Anyway, sorry I rocked your world. I will try and be more politically correct in the future as not to upset you and forcing you to have to scroll more that you have to. You could wind up in the hosipital or something and we wouldn't want that, now would we?
Yep, that scrolling past messages is a tough thing...

Good Lord.....*rolls eyes*

Ayrow

bpeebles · September 2001

Most of us have ALL of the dakota forums in our "favorites" list. Rest assured that if the word "Dakota" is in the name... it is being followed by dedicated Dakota owners.

To answer your question about forum names.... (I have been here for several years and have seen the evolutuion occour.)

There is the "pickups" area that contains several "Dakota" forums... then there is the "Owners Clubs" area that has several more "Dakota" forums.

BTW... the DAKOATA OWNERS CLUB area was one of the first in the "Owners Clubs". (Many thanks to the folks that led the way for all of us Dakota owners.)

ayrow · September 2001

Thanks Bruce,

Sorry if I got out of hand up there. I hate when people attack me for silly things like that. I do my best to help others out on this board as often as I can and it is rare that I ever ask for advice, so I guess I expected a little more patience and support from others.

Anyway, thanks for all of the wonderful advice and input that I often see on here from you. You are very much an asset to what we are trying to accomplish here.

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

bobs5 · September 2001

Attention all North East Dakota owners.
NJ,Pa,NY, and anyone else interested.

Next year, I would like to get NE Dakota owners together for either a Dakota Meet or Salt Water Fishing Trip. If anyone has interest, let me know. Already have a few people interested in a fishing trip from another Dakota website.

If there are few responses, then in a worse case scenerio, I will probably have a bar-be-que here in Edison NJ. We could check out each others trucks and have a nice day together.

Hopefully will have more responses as time goes along. Really would like to go on a fishing trip next year for fluke or bluefish. Many charter boats in the central NJ area.

Let me know if anyone here is interested, so plans can be made accordingly.

Thank you,
Bob

Karen_S · September 2001

And I just noticed there is no "Events" discussion for the Dakota group. I'll start one asap! Please re-post about the upcoming meet and/or fishing trip there. That would also be the place to keep everyone posted of any events updates. When I get a chance, I'll check to see if I can find any Dakota national meets/events.

Thanks!

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

mopar67 · September 2001

especially if there is BBQ
Be sure bpeebles shows up too! I want to meet him

bobs5 · September 2001

Thank you for making an "events" discussion. Please keep us informed if there are any national Dakota events, etc. that you know of.
I placed my previous post there.

bobs5 · September 2001

No problem, I'll keep you in mind for next yesrs event.

Maybe we can get Bookitty to join us also. That is, if Mrs. Bookitty will put it down on the honey-do list. Ha Ha

Please post over in the "events" discussion forum about any interest in a meet or fishing trip.
Thank you,
Bob

ayrow · September 2001

Anybody have any experience cranking the torsion bars down to raise the front a little bit?
Thinking about doing it to level the truck a little...

What should I expect an will it do any harm??

blackdakota318 · September 2001

I have a question I was hoping you guys might be able to help me with. I have a 98 Dakota club cab 4x4 318 auto that I bought used about a year and a half ago with 36,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles. My question is ever since I bought it, it has had a noise that I am positive is coming from the engine. It is a clicking sound that is most noticeable when the transmission is in third gear and you are going up a hill or just have a load on the engine. Just cruising you can't hear it. And when the engine is turning high rpm's (in any gear) you can't hear it, but that might just be because the engine is louder at higher rpm's. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse since I've had it, and there is no loss in power, performance, or mileage. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.

bobs5 · September 2001

Please send me an email so I can contact you when plans are definate.
rshusternj@hotmail.com

Are you more interested in the bar-be-que/Meet rather than a fishing trip?

Hope bpeebles responds if he is this area.

blackdakota318 · September 2001

I too was interested in hearing about the effects of cranking the torsion bars. I only want to add about an inch, maybe even less. Thanks for your help.

mopar67 · September 2001

benjamin_380xd@yahoo.com
I can certainly fish, but have never salt water fished in my life....freshwater (bass, bluegill, etc) I can do easily.
BBQ well I love to eat and love BBQ but whatever activities you have lined up, I will participate in them

bookitty · October 2001

Perhaps someone in our group can help me with this
although it is a bit off our topic. I posted it on the Jeep Wrangler Owners forum about three weeks ago, but have yet to receive any answers. It is certainly unlike our particular group.

"#7 of 8 Towing the Jeep Wrangler, how is it done? by Bookitty Sep 11, 2001 (09:21 am)
Perhaps one of you Jeepers can answer my query. We have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler, 4.0, 5 speed transmission. I have been contemplating the purchase of a tow bar that has two connecting plates that bolt to the front bumper and terminates into a wishbone type arm(s) with a coupler. That's the easy part. Now, my question is, does one just put the transfer case in neutral and release the parking brake, or is there other considerations such as locking (unlocking) the front wheel steering, etc.? Can anyone help?

Bookitty"

tuvtest · October 2001

You are on the right track already. Yes, throw the case in Neutral, but do not unlock the steering (make sure the wheels are straight forward). If that is done, the front wheels of the Jeep will wander and turn one way or the other causing both vehicles to go out of control. Flat towing a car is really no different than towing any other trailer, you want the trailer's wheels parallel pointing forward.

why is it I feel the same way as when my father came an asked my advice the first time??? : )

bookitty · October 2001

Harold (or should I say "son"), thanks for your help. I wasn't certain, because when a trailer is towed, the trailer pivots at the rear wheels (whether it's single or dual axle). I was trying to avoid a "scuffing" situation. Again, thank you for your advice.

Bookitty

saskquad · October 2001

I disagree on locking the steering , what happens when you turn a corner , the front wheels on the jeep would have to skid, also if the wheels are not locked perfectly straight they will skid all the time.

In the unlock position the wheels will turn and follow as they need too as long as you have a rigid tow bar.

bpeebles · October 2001

I vote to LOCK the steering wheel and do not rely on the keyswitch lock either! Use an approved steering-wheel lock to ENSURE that it will not move. (this is standard towing practice)

Leaving the steering unlocked relies on the caster of the front wheels to track where you are going. (The caster on a jeep is pretty low due to its offroad suspension design)

I have seen towed vehicles with unlocked steering start to go lock-to-lock, back and forth while negotiating a sharp turn. The front wheels screech each time and the rear of the towing vehicle gets pulled to the side each time. (This was a HUGE camper pulling a small car)

ANOTHER THOUGHT:
Any Jeep dealer should have detailed instructions on how to tow any of their products.

bookitty · October 2001

Thank you all for your input. It amazes me that I could not elicit even one answer or suggestion on the Jeep Wrangler Owners Club forum. I think that checking with the dealer sounds sensible. That is if I can find a sensible dealer.

Bookitty

tcb741 · October 2001

BooKitty, you must leave the steering wheel UNLOCKED! I have flat towed my Jeep CJ-7 for years and that is a must. Just try towing more than a few feet locked and you will see. There is a position for the key between locked and run that unlocks the column but does not turn on any accessories. You will also need lights on the back of the Jeep just lke a trailer although some guys wire up the rear lights on the Jeep. Also, there is no backing up when flat towing, and while there is no tongue weight you have a ton & half of extra weight back there that your truck or motorhomes brakes will have to stop. As for the transfer case, I am not as certain. My CJ has a Dana 300 which is different than yours. I think you have a DAna 231. On mine, I used to have to drip the rear drive shaft for long trips over 150 miles, but now I have a full floating rear end with locking hubs, just like on the front, so I just unlock the rear hubs. I really think that with your transfer case you don't have to worry about this. It's all about lubrication. In mine, there is no fluid move w/o the engine engaged so you can burn things up, but yours is a different design and I believe you're OK. I can't believe you couldn't get any reply on the Jeep pages; this used to be a pretty common question. Sorry for the length. Feel free to e-mail me direct at Bramble@mindspring.com.

Tim

bookitty · October 2001

Tim, thank you for your post. I believe that the drop box, when in neutral, has no internal movement as the propeller shafts are rotating in their bearing surfaces. I am contemplating towing our Wrangler behind my Quad Cab (4X4, 3.55 LSD, 4.7 5 speed) with the factory tow package minus the synthetic differential lubricant. Eventually the Wrangler will stay in FL, but not for a few years. We keep the Wrangler in the garage at our beach house and every so often I drive it home. If I need my truck there, then I must leave the Jeep at home and take the truck. This will give me the option of having both vehicles at the beach house when desired. The distance to the beach house is 65 miles. This seems a much better option than owning or renting a car trailer. I have saved your posting in my Jeep file and can refer to it. Again, thanks to all for the input.

Bookitty

zonk · October 2001

Does anybody know what is in store for the QC in '03 or '04 in terms of new engines? I keep hearing about a new V6 (not sure of HP or torque) that DC is begining to put in selected vehicles (Jeep Liberty?). How does this engine compare to the current 4.7L V8 regarding power, oomph, etc? Any idea about gas mileage ratings?

bpeebles · October 2001

That V6 IS the 4.7LV8 Hemi with 2 cylinders lopped off.

Just like the existing V6 is the 318V8 missing 2 cylinders.

mopar67 · November 2001

The Grand Cherokee, equipped this year with a new high-output 4.7-liter V-8 engine, is the ninth Jeep vehicle overall to win Petersen's 4-Wheel & Off-Road's "4x4 of the Year" -- an honor we have held more than any other manufacturer. The new high-output 4.7-liter V-8 engine produces 260 horsepower at 5,100 rpm, and 330 lb.-ft of torque at 3,600 rpm, representing a 15 percent increase in horsepower and 12 percent increase in torque over the highly acclaimed 4.7-liter PowerTech V-8 engine.

Oh yea....question to DC, what did you do to gain that extra power & torque and how can we current Dak owners replicate that?

bpeebles · November 2001

(mopar67) Unfortunatly, to get that kind of power out of the 4.7L V8 hemi...DC had to make INTERNAL changes. Most obvious is the modified cam-grinds.
I understand that there are some other minor changes to the heads and rotating mass too.

Since this engine has TWO cams... Performing this upgrade to your dakota would be very expensive. (Older V8 designs had only ONE cam)

mopar67 · November 2001

jl130661 · November 2001

any advice on all weather floor mats and seatcovers. anyne have husky,or catch-all floormats or duragear seatcovers? any other recomendations for extreme snow/mud protection? i work at snowbird ski resort(nearly 8 feet of snow in last few days!!!)

mopar67 · December 2001

http://www.speedtweaks.net/TB.htm

woooooooo hooooooooooo!

lookin good here

iowabigguy · December 2001

With all the great discounts and financing rates we (I) are considering getting another new vehicle. I am torn between a great deal on a Chevy S-10 4x4 xtracab ZR-2 or a comparable Dakota. We have a 2000 Dakota Quad 2 wheel drive which we would be keeping but are looking for something reasonably priced that has 4 wheel drive. Are there any really negative points to the 3.9 V6 used in the Dakota. The only 5 speed trucks available on the dealer lots are the 3.9 V6 in either regular cab or club cab. I would prefer the 3.7 V6 that is derived from the 4.7 however the dealership can't even confirm that it will be available in the 2003 Dakota. Does anyone know when the Dakota gets a change over? I am not overly impressed with how they redid the dashboard compared to the 2000 and how they took the really nice glove compartment in the 2000 and turned it into a compartment that will only hold a pair of gloves. I can get a Chevy S-10 xtracab 4x4 ZR2 package for $17,999 ( lists for $25,233). A comparable Dakota is over $20,000 but I haven't really started to haggle, I'm still in the considering phase. I may wait and order a new Dakota next summer/fall when the new model comes out. Thanks, Rick

iowabigguy · December 2001

Well we test drove the Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 in a 4 wheel drive extended cab. It had all the features we liked and the price was amazing. List $25,288 and they would sell for $17,999. Brand new 2001 5spd, v6 FULLY loaded. We were disappointed with the ride. The axles felt like they were just bolted to the body, talk about a rough ride. The transmission suffered from slow synchronizers, you could feel the gears meshing when shifting into both first and second gear. Then there was the gas mileage. EPA figures were 14 city and 18 highway, from what I've been reading here they are very optimistic too it seems. My 2K Quad 4.7 5 speed was rated 15 city and 20 highway. We decided saving over $7000 was not worth it if it couldn't meet the standards we have become use to with our Quad. I guess we will wait for the 2K3 Dakotas and see if they will be available with the new 3.7L V6. We are also tempted by the new full size Ram. To be comfortable in a Dakota requires at least the Club Cab (regular cab fits me like a tight shoe) but the standard cab Ram is really spacious so I could get by with the less expensive version of the Ram. Problem with that is then we get away from the economy I'm looking for as the 4x4 Ram comes standard with the 4.7. I really expect gas prices to surge upward in the near future and I have a 45 to 60 mile commute depending on traffic and the route I take home. Maybe a Ford Focus SVT would make a good commuter?? Nah, not unless I want to pay $2000 OVER list price just to order one. Guess I'll just have to wait!
Well I hope everyone has a Happy New Year! Rick

bpeebles · January 2002

According to latest "Sport Truck" magazene

216,000 1997-2001 Dakota , Ram and Durango have potential; Driver-side airbag problem.

Has anyone recieved a recall notice?

mopar67 · January 2002

But if I did, it would be recall #3.

bpeebles · January 2002

(mopar67) I orderd a 2000 Dakota before they were on the lots in 1999.... The ONLY recall notice I have ever received since then was the "loose bolts on the front suspension" one.

What was the second one you were notified about?

I wonder if the recalls are only sent out based on the VIN of the vehicle?

I do have to admit that I was part of several TSBs that came out. I was one of the very 1'st people to recognize the "white foam in oil-fill-tube" problem. Even after 2 TSBs that address that problem, I still clean that "white foam" out of my oil-fill-tube weekly in cold weather. I think that the factory just gave up on the problem after the second TSB. That "insert" inside the oil-fill-tube tends to hide the problem from most folks.

mopar67 · January 2002

1. The vent tube on the 45RFE could have been pinched or misrouted causing internal pressure to build and expel fluid from the fill tube.
2. Bracket on rear axle that hold the brake line in proper position may not have been installed properly causing it to rub against the leaf spring causing leak and loss of brakes.

The "mayo maker" oil fill tube still continues. THe "fix", like you said, hides the evidence of poor materials (plastic which does not conduct heat as good as metal but is cheaper nevertheless)used in manufacture. Short of replacing the whole unit with one made of metal, this saga will continue no doubt.
I'd have to guess that recalls are VIN specific as that way they can track down the build day and shift of the truck.

mopar67 · January 2002

Has anyone replaced the less than steller Goodyear OEM with aftermarket units?
If so, what did u choose and why?
And, how are they performing for you as compared to stock tires?

bpeebles · January 2002

(mopar67) Although my originals have not been replaced yet... I keep reading good things about the Perelli Scorpian (SP?) and would strongly consider them when I am ready to buy new tires.

tuvtest · January 2002

I replaced the stock tires as soon as I got my truck home. I decided on BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO in 32"-11.5/15. I have had good luck with those tires previously and this set has been very good as well. BFXG I belive still offers the old All-terrains in addition to the KO's. The KO's are the newest design benifitting from modern tread design and better sidewall construction. If you do choose to go with the KO's, don't bother spending alot of time shopping around, since it seems that BFG has a "price fixing" system in effect that if you sell the KO's you will sell them at what we tell you to (mine I believe are $126 ea)....Legal? I don't know. But good tires nontheless. I would buy them again

namfflow · January 2002

I am on my second set of Pirelli Scorpion Zeros and couldn't be happier with the tires. Note: I cannot rate snow performance as I am never in snow. Sizes used: 255/60-15 and 255/65-15 The 60's are Z rated and the 65 are H rated and XL type for higher loads. Replaced the stock 215/75-15 tires on my 97. Will use the 255/65-15 to replace the 235/75-15 on my 2001 with 2000lb payload once the Goodyear Wranglers are worn out..

97 CC SLT 5.2 Auto 3.55 Brilliant Blue/Silver
01 CC SLT 4.7 Auto 3.92 LSD Flame Red/Silver

sunburn · February 2002

I just read in the Detroit News that the new 5.7L V-8 that will be in the 2003 Ram pick-ups produces 345 HP and 365 ft-lb of torque. Hopefully it will make it into the next generation Dakota without much change.

bookitty · February 2002

We have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler, 4.0, 5 speed transmission. I have been contemplating the purchase of a tow bar that has two connecting plates that bolt to the front bumper and terminates into a wishbone type arm(s) with a coupler. According to the owners manual, the Jeep transfer case must be in neutral, the ignition key off but not locked, parking brake disengaged and transmission in gear. That's the clinker, why place the transmission in gear when the drop box is in the neutral position? I realize that this is a bit off topic, but my tow bar (Hidden Hitch 44000) is on order. D/C has been no help other than to read me the page that I just read. The Jeep site has been pondering the question since September. Can anyone help?

Bookitty

iowabigguy · February 2002

Boo, how about an uneducated guess?? The transmission probably requires the input shaft to rotate to provide lubrication to the transmission's bearings. With the transfer case in neutral the output shaft of the transfer case will still be turning because the rear axle will be causing the rear drive shaft to rotate. The front axle I'm not sure about because you probably have automatic locking hubs but I'd guess the viscosity of the front differential lube would cause some rotation of the front drive shaft as well. So the two output shafts in the transfer case will be churning up the lubricant in the case. This I am guessing is also imparting some sort of rotation of the transmission output shaft/transfer case input shaft. NOW if the input shaft of the transmission requires rotation to lubricate bearings if it is not turning the output shaft does not get lubricated. By leaving the transmission in gear the input shaft would be slaved to the rotation of the output shaft and everything gets its proper lubrication. I can't prove it but I suspect it is a lubrication issue. Rick

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