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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
KnK
sorry all, just need to whine about my whiney hiney.
robert
Robert
robert
please help,
robert
BOTTOM LINE Properly assembling a differential may be the MOST difficult task on any vehicle due the skill that is required. There are a lot of measurements and mathematics involved to get the tolerances just right. There is even a table of "gear tooth contact patterns" that can be visually inspected to ascertain if all of the tolerances actually worked out. (There are conditions under which all tolerances are within spec but the contact pattern is still incorrect.)
bucky4@helicon.net
The new cap is a different design from the original one.It has several design enhancements to overcome the problems that the 'old' design seemed to have. (New P/N= 53032389AC date of manufacture=7/6/00)
1) NO MORE O-ring... now the seal is a rubber 'flap' that is embedded into the cap.
2) No longer hollow .... The new design has a 'cover' on the inside that should reduce heat-loss. (The old cap would allow condensation to accumulate on the underside)
For those of you that have joined us since last winter ... the 4.7LV8 has a tendency to accumulate an oil-water emulsion in the oil-fill tube in cold/damp weather. (There is a TSB regarding this fact.) Over time, this emulsion (which is acidic) will 'attack' the rubber O-ring on the oil-fill cap and make it get 'sticky'.
If your oil-fill cap is hard to remove...you have the problem and should have the cap replaced under warrantee
Two mechanics told him the ball joints were shot, the dealer told him TWICE that they weren't. Why did he go to the same dealer the second time? And then a third time after driving 11,000 miles on bad ball joints.
my 2 pennies.
I did not mean to start any arguments. Of course you are correct about this NOT constituting a recall. HOWEVER I prefer to be informed and welcome the information. It is not our place to question why this individual did (or did not)
go to another dealer. The fact remains that the ball joints were a problem...enough said on that.
=======
I too, had a local mechanic tell me I had abnormal tire wear on a car with 6000 miles on it. This local mechanic had NO way to make money off of me by pointing out the tires... He knew it was a new car. He suggested I take it to the dealer. I ended up getting a FREE alignment and 4 FREE tires. This mechanic did, however, earn my trust.
BOTTOM LINE
I would sooner trust a mechanic that has no vested interest in diagnosing a car under warrantee.
The dealers, however, are scrutinized for doing warrantee work and will tend to NOT do something if they can "get away" with it. Doing warantee work takes real $$ out of a dealers pocket. (Policy varies with corporate culture)
Any ideas anyone?
Thanks
Rhys
1. Finding the dern filter. Recommended solution is to look at the picture of the engine in the Dakota catalogue.
2. Loosening it for the first change, since the factory puts it on so tight (one person said to have someone else do the first change for this reason).
3. Skid plate (if you have it) gets in the way; I think you have to take it off first.
4. When the filter is loosened it will drip all over. One solution offered(sheer brilliance in my opinion) was to get a plastic 2-liter soda bottle, cut off and discard the top, and put it over the filter while you are unscrewing it to catch the oil. It was recommended to use gloves because of hot oil. I don't recall anyone mentioning use of other unusual tools.
5. Finally, there was a lot of discussion about how much new oil the engine would actually take (some said 5 qts, some said 6). One person recommended to let the oil drain for a couple hours to ensure all of the old stuff is out.
FYI--there is currently a lot of active discussion on one of the other quad sites regarding the best type of filter to use.
The initial problem was that it would shift from 1st to 3rd in approximately 100ft. Do the same thing when cornering after a stop. Also, when on the road and in cruise, if the trans. computer determined a shift down was needed (as when climbing a hill), the damned thing would shift into 1st and take off like a rocket. Several times I needed to brake quickly to avoid rear ending the Yugo in front of me. But, when on the highway behind that 45mph Yugo, I'd try to pass and the damned thing wouldn't shift to anything without me putting my foot almost to the radiator.
I took it to the dealer for a 'check up', and they supposedly adjusted the "kick down linkage". Since then, there has been no change to the Cruise downshifting, BUT!!! now when I try to pass or pull into fast traffic, the trans somehow finds neutral until I let off the gas. Now, the Yugo almost rear ended me. Anyone else out there having auto trans fun????? I'd like to hear from ya'
So don't feel alone in feeling like should have the rest of your 4X4 installed.
Nortx
(maybe its a tx heat thing)
Possibly related to this....I was doing a stereo install and had taken off the dash (had to unplug headlight switch and 4x4 switch. I had to drive the vehicle with the dash off and noticed that the 4x4 service light came on and also the headlights were on, like daytime running lights.
Please post any resolutions if you discover them before I do. Thanks.
Mine is almost impossible to remove now, with 12K miles on the vehicle. I almost had to get may 14" pliers out to remove it the last time I changed the oil two weeks ago!
Ed
Can you believe this heat?
Thanks
Rhys
If you shut off ignition before the turning off lights the headlights should remain on (cabin lights fade out) for a minute or two as a courtesy feature.
Rhys
oil-filler-cap. When I realized that the rubber
O-ring on my original cap was turning into mush, I
mentioned it when I took my rig in for an oil
change. (This was back in May 2000)
They orderd a replacement cap. The "parts" people were able to determine that there were 100s of them on order around the country. They caps were on 'backorder'.
Here we are many months later and I finally get my
new cap. (with MUCH improved design)
Ben
When the truck comes from the factory the rear tires are inflated for a full load, if you are running empty then you should lower the pressure in the rear tires (to around 34psi from memory). Try that and see if it makes things a little more stable.
I don't think that is your problem, but I think it may be making the symptoms worse.
Bookitty
Bookitty
Bookitty
Fixing it may prove elusive however...
Gas mileage varied from 17.2 to 18.5 (4.7, auto)
440 miles door step to dorm step.
A little insulation around the vent tube might stop this, but I don't know. If you get a better answer from your dealer, let me know.
Has anyone with brake problems tried non-OEM rotors? From what I have heard about Jeep and some of the problems here, I wonder if I should plan on getting performance brakes in the future.
http://users.jnlk.com/dakrt/4wheeldisc.htm
http://www.stillen.com/brakes/rotors/rotors.html
http://www.ssbrakes.com
Here is a really interesting item about cyrogenically treating the steel before putting in to use.
http://www.frozenrotors.com/raceproven.htm
"THE ULTIMATE SOURCE"
Bookitty
"THE ULTIMATE SOURCE"
Bookitty
PS Jack please change: "You people never cease to amaze me (in a nice sort
of way). ;-)"
To;
" You peebles never cease to amaze me (in a nice sort of way). ;-)"