To bpeebles and others, Thank you for all the advice and help. Going out of town for few days. Will look into the GS-27 upon my return. Happy New year to all. May your Quad Cabs all make it through 2002 without any major problems. I had a minor scare today. Listening to The Essential Journey on my factory CD player today all of a sudden the system just went out! All I could hear was a high pitched whine. I immediately turned it off then tried it again. Same thing. Radio would not tune in either. Left it off the rest of the way home. Got out and started cursing Dodge. Couple hours later after calming down some had to run an errand. Started the truck, turned on the radio and wella, working just fine. What'ya make of that? Could it be..... the twilight zone? Doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo. Hope that doesn't happen again!
bpeebles, i have a '98 dak w 5.2. i see you recommend the bosch 4's. i have done research for opinions/expertise on other sites. one i came across recommended the autolite 3923 which according to them is one step colder to help with the well documented spark knock problem. during my throws with this problem, i ended up going with the recommended flash and it eliminated spark knock-but i suspect the flash simply retards the timing and costs performance. anyway, i'm looking at doing the "tune-up" now with 35k on it and would be interested for your opinion on the autolites and the "colder" philosophy. they also recommend going to a cooler 180-185 thermostat, but i'm concerned that the computer being may be confused and make compensations that will negate the benefit of running the engine at the cooler and seemingly more appropriate temp.
Hello old time posters. I haven't been around in a while (first new job, then new kid, then lost job, but kept kid :') Anyway, my 2000 QC is needs a new set of tires. The 255/65/15's on it are Goodyear Eagle LS. A quick website check showed only Goodyear LS and Pirelli Scorpion Zero as the choices in that exact size.
Talked to Goodyear rep and he said to go with Goodyear Wingfoot HT in a 255/70/15. Not in love with Goodyear and am looking for suggestions.
I apologize up front if this is an often repeated question. I don't have time to search back through the threads to find out. My 9-month old is already tried to pull the cable connection out of the wall twice. Got to type fast or Oh no, stay away from there. Don't touch it, no please, don't bite it.....
Gotta go...
Bye the way, 33,000 miles: one battery, one burnt cylinder valve, other than that a great truck. Also looking for better brake pads than OEM.
Thanks a bunch. Still the best owner's group around.
WOAA... I have said that the Bosch +4 sparkplugs have shown to work well in the 4.7L V8 hemi engine. I never meant to infer that other engines would respond likewise.
Your 5.2L engine is a 1960's based design and I have not done research for that engine. (I do recall the somting OTHER than the Bosch +4 was mentioned often... but I did not take any notes on this engine.)
==========
You asked for my thoughts on the "colder plug" and "colder thermostat" changes that some folks suggested for the 5.2L engine.
Keep in mind that a "colder" sparkplug is simply one with a shorter center electrode that conducts the heat from the tip to the head faster. Doing plug readings is the ONLY way to determine the proper heat-range for your driving conditions.
As for running a colder thermostat from stock... the stock thermostat is intended to reduce emmissions by running HOT. many folks have found that running a cooler thermostat (185) can reduce the spark knock. Again... I have not researched this but I have never read of any problems caused by running a 185 thermostat.
Have you considerd going to the ROOT of your pinging problem? The 5.2L has several known "fixes" for this problem. (Leaking intake gasket and carbon buildup in combustion chambers)
Try going to tirerack.com. Michelin makes several models that are replacement for the GY LS tires and there are other makes. It can sometimes be hard to find them. You can also find the Michelins at Sam's. Unfortunately, none of the tires this size are budget. You can save money with a 70 series tire, but I have concerns about the rims being wider than recommended for the tires.
mxracer250, I have a similar setup as you - I have a 99 318 with 38000. I've had pinging problems from day 1 but had chosen to live with it by putting in slightly higher octane because of the better performance. bpeeples is correct in suspecting an intake manifold leak, as I'm on my fourth gasket(all under warranty). The last time I brought it in (for the last manifold gasket)they flashed the pcm because of newly released bulletin (presumably to take care of a high incidence of pinging complaints). I told them not to do it if it retarded the timing, they didn't know if it did or not so they did it anyway an surenuff it got rid of the ping at the expense of engine performance (retarded timing).
Knkresort, Pirelli Zeros are a good option but are expensive. If you go to the 70 series (255/70/15), Bridgestone Dueler HP's are highly rated and are cheap! Aspect ratio (i.e. 60,65 or 70 series) has nothing to do with rim width requirements, as it is the first number ( 255) that determines the width of the tire, hence the rim width required.
It has everything to do with rim width. To properly size a tire, you either need to stay with the same tire diameter or reprogram the truck to the new tire size. If you go from a 255/65-16 to a 70 series, you will need a 235 or 245 (depending on make and model) to match. Many of the tires that could replace the 255/65-16 are not recommended for rims over 7.5 inches.
Even among different models of the same company, there can be a significant difference in tires. As an example, Michelin makes a Cross Terrain SUV and a LTX M/S. Both are rated 'all season highway LT'. The LTX has an overall diameter of 29.2 inches vs 29 inches for the SUV (712 rev/mile vs 719) The LTX 255/70 has a dia. of 30.2 inches(694 rev/mile). The LTX 235/70 is 29.1 in., but is not rated for rims over 7.5 inch. The SUV in that size can be put on an 8 inch rim.
There is also a significant load difference between the two model. The SUV is rated for close to 2-300 lbs more per tire than the LTX, depending on size. This is only one manufacturer. Compare to Goodyear and the others and it can get real interesting.
Pay attention! I simply stated that aspect ratio in itself has nothing to do with tire width requirements and that remains a fact. My statement was in response to a question asked about tires (15" btw, not 16") where 255/70/15 was an option offered by a goodyear rep. as a 255/65/15 alternative. Tire rim width is not a concern with this option! The diameter, of course, will increase ~3% - when going 60mph the speedo will indicate 58. To keep the same diameter, the tire width would have to be reduced to 235, as in 235/70/15. whew!
steve234 - Steve, I think the guys at NAPA are feeding you the wrong info on the Bosch + 4 plugs. I have been a member of the Dakota Mailing List (DML) for the past 2 years and there have literally been dozens of postings on that list endorsing the use of the +4s in the 4.7. I have a 2K with a 5 speed and a 4.7 and when I hit 30K miles I will be installing the +4s.
I have a 2000 Quad cab with the tire and handling option. I purchased a second set of 15x8 rims on Ebay. My factory tires are 255r55-15 and I mounted Bridgestone Blizzak 235r70-15 on the spare rims for winter use. There is no appreciable difference in overall tire diameter between the 2 different sizes. The truck odometer indicates the same distance covered when comparing the distance between interstate mile markers. The ride is slightly softer due to (I assume) taller sidewall on the 70 series tire. The biggest difference is the width of the tread, with the snow tire being maybe 3/4" narrower. I think you will also see that the diameter of a 215r75-15 is also almost the same and this size was the factory tire on the 93 Dakota I had. I replace those within the first 100 miles with 235r70-15 Goodyears because I couldn't leave a stoplight without spinning my tires. My personal opinion is that for someone who does not care to pay the premium for the 255 tires that the 235r70 tires are a safe and economical alternative. I have to say that this opinion is based on my experience with 15" rims, although logically it should carry over to 16" rims if the tire sizes and aspect ratios are adjusted. Rick
(steve234) I reference to your words; "I was planning to go to a copper core plug anyway."
Do not forget that virtually ALL BOSCH, NGK and ND (nippondenso) sparkplugs are copper core and have ALWAYS been copper core for the last 25 years.
It seems that CHAMPION and AC do not use copper normally and instead pretend that COPPER CORE is some special invention they dreamed up and have a "special" line of product that have COPPER CORE. The truth is that CHAMPION sparkplugs are cheap and do not last... thus need to be changed often. Even their copper-core plugs DO NOT use nickle plating on the metal portions of their products. (which is STANDARD on all BOSCH plugs) [the nickle plating resuces the chances of damaging your engine during removal 40,000 miles later.]
Do not take my word for it... go to a parts store and ask them to show you a BOSH, ND, NGK, CHAMPION, and AC plugs... you will visibly SEE the quality in some of them. (I will let you guess which ones.)
Of course... one can buy CHAMPION plugs at WALLMART for $2 each while BOSCH plugs are made in germany and cost around $5 each.
DO NOT FORGET... BOSCH invented the first sparkplug!! everyone else has been playing catch-up ever since.
in all my mopars past and present. Autolites run well and I have no complaints. I have found their platinum plugs to be most sufficient. I have found that champion plugs tend to misfire and yes, they simply do not last as long as autolite. I have run champions in dads GM, Phord tractors, IH tractors, and IH v-8 old fashioned points and distributor engines. They don't hold up Bear in mind this facet of products. When you see stuff showing up in Waldo World for 2 bucks (like Fram filters for instance), something in the design and the quality has to get cut back. How else can wally world sell stuff for as cheaply as they do? Remember, they are a discounter! Discount SOMETIMES=lesser quality. Witness HOmelites disastrous foray into the super cheap world of Home Depot. ONce Homelite (like Mcculloch) was a very respected name in outdoor power equipment. Then they got greedy and said, hey, lets ditch the independent hardware retailer and try the high volume high turnover world of home depot. And then John Deere said, wow, we've moved all production Mexico and STILL we can't turn a decent profit. Why? Because old timers said NO to the cheapening of Homelite and Homelite simply could not bust into the market share held my weedeater and Mcculloch and others. What they gained inshort term was total dissolution of the brand itself. Ok, so what does this have to do with sparkplugs?Plenty. same theory, when wally world or home depot starts carrying it, look out. You will most surely see quality go down (along with the price)
Latest news: Cub Cadet is going to be sold in LOWES stores this year. Stay tuned on that one.
I know the homelite situation very well because I work in the wholesale end of hardware & our stores pitched a royal [non-permissible content removed] when homelite said they would not sell anymore to independents.
I may not agree with you too often. (all in the spirit of intellectual discussions)
You have a very good point about the "cheapening" effect. Anytime a manufacturer tries to make a "price point" product, there are shortcuts taken that affect the quality of the product. (Sometimes just removing the "quality control" steps in the manufacting process is a cost saver!) The product looks, smells and feels the same... but the quality is missing.(Like the FRAM oilfilters)
You mentioned Cub Cadet... do not forget that John Deere just started selling a really cheap line of riding lawnmowers a few years ago. (sold from department stores.) The local farmers that have trusted John Deere for years were not impressed. (although one CAN go to a John Deere dealer to get the real thing for $2000 more)
Did you know that to be a JD dealer, you have to CARRY high usage parts for somthing like 10 years of products? When a farmer has a bailer break... there is no time to wait for a part to arrive next week!JD dealers even make HOUSE CALLS!! They come out to the farm and RIDE WITH THE FARMER on the tractor making adjustments in the field until everything works perfect. Now there is a real 5-star dealer
You can see why some farmers were agahst that JD is selling $700 riding lawnmowers at department stores while a REAL JD riding mower costs $2700.
The company for whom I worked, used John Deere diesel engines. They also used the new series of Cummins (joint venture with Case) on an OEM basis. It did not take too long before our dealers and customers realized that the same engine parts and OEM filters were available from the farm dealers at much lesser pricing than from the industrial dealers. In the case of John Deere, that would be the "Green" line versus the "Yellow" line. It is simply an example of segment marketing. The farm market was more susceptible to "will fits" parts simply because of the number and age of the machine population. Incidently to mopar67, the same company (Textron) who screwed up Homelite, caused the subsequent demise (wounded but not yet dead) of the company from whom I retired (Omniquip the manufacturers of Lull and Skytrak rough terrain material handlers among other products). Whenever it seems, there is a good bullet proof well accepted product, there is always the "new suit" who in an aura of ignorance fueled by arrogance discovers a better way to increase profit margins at the expense of quality.
Textron sold the consumer products division to John Deere and Homelite became part of John Deere Consumer Products. They even went so far as to paint the saws Green(instead of Red), slap a JD name on there...........and.........wait and wait for sales to come. They didn't.
I totally agree with you on the "new suit" theory where a guy comes along and fixes what isn't broken.
I love these kinds of discussions, but it seems like the old timers are the only ones who can see how greedy corporate America has become. Everyone needs to wake up and stop caring more for money than for quality (the true meaning of the word and not the buzzword adopted by greasy salesmen everywhere). I have worked for automotive suppliers for 8 years and agonize over this conundrum every day. I am asked to constantly cheapen my products while receiving the same payment from my customers. The suits are bringing home 5 figure bonuses while the engineers are scrambling for cost reductions that do not destroy quality (it can only go so far). It makes me sick, yet I am trying to stay in this industry to turn back the tide and at least prove to myself that there are people out there who put pride before their checkbooks. I gleefully pay extra for well engineered and durable products, but am still caught off guard by shysters all the time.
READ THIS BOOK, YOU WILL BE AMAZED AND HORRIFIED:
"THE TWILIGHT OF AMERICAN CULTURE" by MORRIS BERMAN
Truly a eye-opening experience.
I was terrified to buy a new domestic vehicle, but am so far very pleased with my 02 QC. I took a close look at an 02 Sport Trac the other day and was appalled at the quality, fit and finish, and sticker price. Maybe we are all really biased with our Dodge vehicles, but I am still sure that this was the absolute best truck I could have bought considering all factors.
My point about the tires is that when you change tire aspect ratios, you are screwing with something. If you go with a taller tire to have the same cross section, you have to deal with the effects that it produces. Maybe the difference is inconsequential, but with the way vehicles are today, I would not discount anything. If you try to keep close to the same tire diameter, you have to make sure the rims will work with the tire selected. I used the 16 inch rims as an example because I have been looking at some Michelins for my Q and the numbers were handy.
On plugs: It was not the NAPA manager, it was the Autozone manager. I do not know from personal experience one way or another. I remember reading something about it long ago. Where or how reliable the source, I cannot remember. I have used the Bosch and Autolite platinums in the past, and would again in a heartbeat where I felt the application warranted. I have not liked Champions or AC plugs after some poor experiences decades ago. I have always done well with Autolites and plan on putting them in my Q. I passed on what I was told about the Bosch's in case someone would benefit. There could be a difference in the standard platinums and the +4s. It could be a thing that only affects x% of vehicles, or it could have been a bad batch of plugs. BTW all industries fight the battle between cost and quality. Vehicles today enjoy a better quality than 10, 20 years ago. The biggest problem is when a management change tries to increase sales by sacrificing quality. It never works. My favorite (or worse) case is what happened to Schlitz beer.
Well that pulled me from my "lurking" mode. All quiet on the QC front here.. 42,000 or so miles and no problems to bring up.. I have printed the posts on swapping the ribbed intake for a "Home Depo special".. a 2 or 3 beer project in the warmth of my garage shortly. Otherwise I am saving posts on plugs and tires for future refrence.. great discussions yeilding useful info... oh yeah...IDLE - smooth and steady
I agree. I work in an industry where our stores are asked to pay higher fees and yet they receive reduced services. Seems to me (I guess I qualify as a younger member here?) that the profit-at-any-price mentality will eventually be our ruin. I get sick and tired of stuffed shirts bragging about shareholder value when I drive a less than well engineered truck. I could honestly care less what the dividend is this quarter,this year or whatever. I did not buy a a share of DC, but a product, there is a difference here! Too often, stuffed shirts view automaking as an enterprise where one pours in as little money as possible on one end yet expects five star returns on the other end. It don't work that way guys!
Here's how that magic word, profit, is created.
Sales minus cost of goods sold equals profit. Sales(revenue) comes from, surprise, CUSTOMERS not shareholders! The guy who invested 5,000 bucks 30 years ago does not financially make or break a company. Why is it that I, with no business degree from Harvard, can figure that out but a seven figure salary bag of hot air in corporate america can't?
What burns my backside is not the engineer, the lineworker, or the plant manager but the corporate decision making process behind it all. I mean,hell, how desparate was DC in December 1999 when my truck was built that they had to cut corners on brakes? How low do we need to stoop for the dollar? Shareholders? They can kiss my you know what! Maybe they wouldn't mind donating some of that quarterly dividend so I can buy new rotors, drums, pads and shoes and pay someone the labor to replace it all.
Interesting to note: I read a paper on the study of Japanese television factories here in USA and how they sprouted up and six are still going strong, making good, affordable products (yes, with american labor, ain't that a shock!) while Zenith, Magnavox, SYlvania, and yes, that good old icon of what america was, RCA, packed it all in and either sold off to foreign concerns or moved production lock stock and barrel to Mexico. I'm sure there's a lesson there somewhere.
I agree with all the comments made about greed, profitability, and the cheap products produced as a result. I believe you must build a quality product, produce it smartly, and make it attractive to the customer. Then you shouldn't have profitability questions. Too often, a manufacturer, in the name of 'profitability', starts slicing quality (or even basic features, like brake capability) from his product until he discovers the absolute bottom effort that his customers will accept. That then becomes his baseline. One suggestion is to flood DC with copies of these comments. Talking amongst ourselves dosn't deliver the mesage to DC or any other arrogant corporation. So, nothing gets done. Maybe(?) they will get the idea that they have finally gone too far and if they truly wish to increase their sales (profitability), they will fix the problems their customers report.
By the way, with 8650 miles on my 2001 4.7L, auto, 2wd QC, the only problem has been a brake squeal, apparently from the rear, which is more irritating than anything else. Three times into the dealers to check it. Brakes sanded a couple of times, no problems found with pads, calipers, etc. I did get a 12 inch 'keying' on my right rear door, probably from parking at Walmart. That really sucks!
Hello, I have a 2001 Quad Cab, 4.7, auto with 13,000+ miles. I have been going by Maintenance Schedule B in my Owner's manual since I live in North Dakota (cold) and drive mostly city miles. That schedule states to change my front and rear fluid at 12,000 miles. Is this really necessary? Does it void the warranty if I don't? What should I expect my dealer to charge me to do this procedure?
(bpeebles and wetwillie) Thanks for the input but i figured the plug recommendations would be the same between 5.2/4.7. Also, i stated that i already addressed the "root" of the problem of spark knock. after reading all the posts herein, it seems that dc simply screwed up the computer setings and the flash is needed and i've already done that. they also considered the manifold gasket and confirmed its ok. Right now, I'm just trying to make any/all compensations that I can to help this motor. thanks again. i'll standby for 5.2 inputs.
Ok. when I had my loaner Durango (fuse box BBQ) it had a courtesy light shining on the cup holder area. My(our) 2000 QC with the console has nothing, and I have used a Pep Boys cig. lighter light for a while now to light up the cup area.. which is a great convenience since my commute is usually dark both ways... Anyway I finally got the OEM light module for the Durango (same color light as the dash illumination.. and a test of it looks like it will look and work great) and am ready to notch out the hole in my lower dash to insert it.. but need help on how to expose the dash units to get to the light wires... The plastic seems ready to pull out.. so those who have removed it.. pointers are appreciated..
Well, my electrical problem came back today. Here is a detail symptom list:
1) Radio stays on with key out 2) Courtesy lights do not function when doors open 3) Lights on A/C control on when headlights are off, off when headlights are on 4) Cigarete/power adapter not functional when headlights are turned on, when turned off, they are functional. Eventually they stop working 5) Power door locks click at CTM, but no lock/unlock (Even with transmitter) 6) When you turn the key in between the Start and Off position, you can hear the blower motor make a whining type sound.
Just a shot in the dark but I think all of your malfunctioning units, including the CTM, use G207 for ground. Bad grounds and intermittent shorts cause a lot of strange happenings. G207 is under the dash on the driver's side. According to the shop manual it is somewhere near the diagnostic port. I'll try to locate it in the morn and give a better description of location.
Reference my previous post. Ground G207 is located on the side of the transmission tunnel immediately to the right of the accelerator pedal. Just pull back the carpet. There are two ground points. The shop manual shows the forward one to be G207 and the aft one to be G201. On my 2001 CC the aft one is G207. The one with a bunch of wires attached is G207. Good luck!!!!
I just noticed the other day that when I start my 2002 4.7L the oil pressure gauge comes up to the first white line and pauses for 3-4 seconds. It then continues upward. It happens when the engine is cold, warm, and hot. Is this normal?
Finally got my synthetic with friction modifier in the rear..Called in the morn as truck was on the lift to tell them to check the front end popping noise during sharp turns, I got it.. Ended up rescheduling to check that, and got the poor drivers door weatherstrip insulation and drivers side left cracked headlight lense (day one also) on order free under warranty as it should be. Just thought is was weird they put in 2 cans of modifier ..figure 2 cans of rear lube might be normal. Final: 1 sealer 82300234 $9.20 2 Lubricant 4874469 $19 per can - I guess actual lubricant 2 Lubricant 4318060AB $6.25 per can - I guess friction modifier labor $60.86 Sub $120.56 customer pay shop/environment for repair order $2.41 ????? tax $7.37 Total $130.44 Figure price is typical as seen on some posts.. Just thought 2 cans of modifier might have been unnecessary. No brake problems as of yet.!! Waiting for Magnaflow to get the 4.7L Quad Cab catback built. Their site only had reg and extended cab listed and they asked me to help get dimensions from the dealer to help..No help from dealer, just told me "we have pictures, and p/n's only" Guess if gibson can make them, Magnaflow should be able to make them too! LOVE THE TRUCK SO FAR! Driving the wife's accord just don't cut it...Ger
2 cans of friction modifier is a bit much but somewhere I recall the BOB calls for a qty of modifier which cannot be covered by one bottle of the stuff hence them boning you for 2 bottles. I bet they used the req amount and kept the leftover for another "customer" who will also get charged for 2 bottles of the stuff. ANd DC moans on and on about losing money? Maybe they should operate like a dealership!
Since I was officially inducted by MOPAR67 into the DODGE JUNK BRAKE CLUB when my rotors turned blue at 9k I am compelled to share with you my latest disaster. Please bear with me.
My wife borrowed my Dodge and parked it proclaiming the brakes are failing! She refused to drive it.
Once again I returned to my five star dealer at 18k. Once again I was told the rotors are blue and once again need to be turned.
I almost forgot to mentioned my fog lights were out again.
Dealer turned rotors and replaced bulb in fog light. I struck my best deal and it cost me $28.10 to turn rotors. Here is where it gets better.
Three days after fixing everything I went on a three hundred mile round tripper(deer hunting).
6o miles from home I began to hear a thumping like I had a flat tire. It was pouring rain and I got out to see my tires in good shape and traveled on.
10 miles from home I began to hear a high pitch squeal.
I pulled into my driveway and looked around and under the vechicle. Then it caught my eye. FOUR nuts and studs were sheared off from my left rear tire!! Close examination revealed the remaining two studs(one almost sheared) were barely hanging on.
Least of my problem was my fog lights which were filled with water and bulbs had blown. This is my third time with fog lights. I crawled with an escort to my five star dealership who now knows my DAK better than any in town.
It quickly drew a crowd including the master mechanic who admitted he pulled the tire a week prior to check my rear brakes.
My five star dealer after 5 hours of inspection claimed mechanic installed wheel nuts with impact wrench and may have over torqued with aluminum torque wrench.
Fog lights have been replaced (third time).
Would you believe my five star dealer had only four studs and bolts in stock I picked up my DAK and have to return to tommorow for installation. So I am driving with five nuts and was told it would be safe? I am so glad DODGE puts so much faith in their brakes.
I am glad GOD was my copilot, I shudder to think would have happen if the remaing studs sheared off at 70 miles an hour. I am one lucky guy and grateful to be alive. My DAK 4x4 with 21,000 miles who I have dubbed TIME BOMB, I am not sure of its future as Hairy dog its owner.
Paul, someone must have been watching over you, and it was not your 5 star dealer. Thank Heaven that you were okay. I certainly hope that your dealer "got the message." Now, in a more humorous vein:
A fellow driving a small car had a flat tire in from of a mental asylum. He had no spare. He jacked the car and removed the four nuts holding the wheel and carried the flat tire to a nearby service station to have it repaired. When he had returned to his vehicle, he found that someone had stolen the four wheel nuts. Now he really had a problem, what could he do? All of a sudden a voice called out through the barred windows, "hey Mister, why don't you take one nut off of each wheel and then with three nuts holding each wheel you can drive carefully to an auto parts store and buy the other four nuts." The motorist was very impressed with this sage advice and called out, "that's a great idea. Do you work in the asylum?" "No" replied the man through the bars, "I'm a patient here." The motorist said, "wow with a mind like you have, what are you doing as a patient?" The man replied,"they never said that I was stupid, just crazy!"
We enjoyed the joke! I doubt if I would have thought of it as a solution if I had known earlier of my problem.
Anyway dealer installed the last stud and lug nut this afternoon. I noticed no one would smile while I was present.
Would you believe a mechanic came over and stated that he had seen the same problem on a DAK before?
I hope and pray that no one regardless of vechicle you own will ever lose a tire as a result of sheared studs. I know without a doubt a few more miles and I would have experienced driving a truck with three wheels on the interstate. I keep thinking about my grandchildren and how grateful I am that they were not with me. The thought of what could have happened is on my mind.
I will be on the interstate tommorow and if I hear any strange sounds I will pull over and check each tire very carefully!
Anyway I appreciate this site and all who post their problems. I have learned a great deal and will continue to read and learn. Many Thanks!
Hello. I was just going through the maintenance schedule for my (my wife's) '02 4.7 Auto 4x4 QC and was surprised by some of the recommended fluid change intervals. Our conditions mostly resemble Schedule B (short trips) but I can't believe I will have to change front and rear axle fluid every 12K miles. It looks like schedule A doesn't even mention changing the front or rear axle fluid. Any thoughts on this or should I just quit being a cheap skate and open up my wallet? On a side note, I was checking under the truck to see how tough an oil change will be and was somewhat amused by the access to the oil filter. I have a feeling that once I pull the filter I will have quite a mess trying to get through that little access hole. Should be fun.
My wife was driving her Civic down a country two lane at 40 mph when a Plummer's truck (F350) came the other way. The rear tire of the truck came off and hit her square between the headlights at 80mph. Luckily, it bounced over the roof and she escaped injury.
The truck driver told us he just picked up the truck from the dealer where it got a new rear axle. I spoke with the dealer and they gave her a loaner and made good on the repair.
Your wife was very fortunate in that the wheel hit where it did and bounced over the car. She also kept her head and maintained control of her vehicle (good driver). The dealer is lucky that they did not have a very heavy lawsuit on their hands, as this is the stuff of which negligence cases are made. If you or I as everyday regular civilians neglect to properly tighten a fastener, it is a bit cloudy as far as proving negligence. However, when a so called professional does it, it is a horse of a different color. But, we can all be happy that there were no injuries or worse.
Sooo... your question is requesting our thoughts on what?
Is schedule 'B' correct for your conditions? Your answer is...Perhaps.
If you read schedule B carefully, you will see it tries to cover cold weather and towing and dusty conditions and....etc etc.
The changes of differential fluid would certainly not HURT you wifes truck.
I can tell you I ahve almost 30,000 on my 2000 dak and my dealer tells me that changing the differential fluids IS NOT required. (I am in Vermont and see 4 months of cold weather each year)
If I were you, I would be much more concerned with the maintenance schedule of your automatic tranny. (NOW THAT IS COSTLY!)
You are correct that oil changes are a messy proposition. Several folks have invented some "tricks" to ease oil-filter changing. (such as cutting the bottom off of a liter soda jug and using the top part to catch the filer and guide the oil into the drain pan)
Yeah, I guess I was a little vague on that previous post, but you answered my question. I have 215K miles on my '86 4Runner and have only changed my rear end fluid once so I thought it was a little strange to have to change fluid every 12K miles.
Thanks for the 2 liter soda trick for the oil change. It should make things go a little smoother.
Well I kinda hate to admit this, but in the late 60's my Dad owned a VW Bug and I had changed the rear tires for him, I probably put on snows, but I can't remember. Well, after doing my fine work he drove down the street, slowing at the corner when he heard and felt a bump. He comes to a stop, tire passes him by. Seems I had forgotten to do a final tighten on the lugs after letting the car down. He wasn't to happy at the time, but since no damage was done it kinda became a funny story later on. And now I'M head mechanic at the local 5 Star Dealer !! PS: Only kidding about the mechanic part.........The rest is true
Since we are telling stories of wheels coming off, when I was stationed in Korea, I had to drive a 5/4 ton back from the repair depot in Seoul. (That was a HD pickup based on the old Jeep Wagoneer body.) We were heading to our mountain site outside of Suwon (50-60 mile trip) and just as we got through town, I looked to the side and saw a wheel go rolling by. As I watched, the 5/4 came to a quick grinding halt. The wheel continued on its merry way until it encountered the side of a local bus.
sunburn - I've been "dormant" over the holidays and just tonight went through messages from mid - December. I saw that no one had answered your posting about increasing vibration while accelerating up and over 2,000 rpms.
I too have this occurring in my '00 QC, 4.7L, 5sp. and it seems to be getting worst. No only do I feel the vibrations build in the pedals, floor, gear shift, and steering wheel, I can hear increasing levels of engine noise. I have not taken it to a dealer but did look at the motor mounts and the rubber on the transmission brace.
I've been using Mobil1 5-30W and changing the oil and filter routinely. Since the 10,000 mile mark, I've been taking oil samples to heavy machinery fluids lab for wear metals analysis. Out of the 8-10 samples to date (24,000 miles now on the truck), none show that there has been anything alarming. The engine doesn't burn oil (checking the dip stick or smoke in the exhaust).
I keep hoping that its a motor mount because of the amount of what appears to be exhaust noise and vibration in the cabin. Feels like something got out of balance, especially under acceleration.
#1333 of 1393 EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVAL by bpeebles Dec 22, 2001 (04:27 pm)(decentman4you) The main "risk" to extending the oil changes is the possibility of moisture build-up within the crankcase. (Condensation from temperture swings and humidity changes)When you say you drive your Dak a couple times a week... are these short trips (20-30 minutes) or are you driving long enough to "burn off" the moisture in the oil?
Answer; ? Is short trips detrimental to the life of the oil? as I am hoping since the TEMP does get up to the operating range rather quickly an stays in the normal (straight up) position, and I might drive only about 3-5 miles an leave the engine idling with the doors locked ( have an extra key ) normally only when in sight of the vehicle, but total time of operation might only be 15 min's since where I live everything is close by.... is this bad for the OIL or should I really get out on the Freeway every so often an run it up an down, to give the oil a workout? Or if I am not driving this vehicle much what is the best way to Keep the oil in good shape? For instance, its only 3.6 miles for me to get to work one-way and I try to drive my nissan kc for that....or my Honda mc......
(decentman4you) You read my append correctly. If you are only driving short trips, your oil is building up all kinds of moisture and acids. These acids then "sit" in the engine and eat at the metal parts while parked.You are not waring out your oil... but filling it with nasties that will shorten the life of your engine.
Pourposly going for a drive (over 30 minutes) every couple of weeks would go a long way twards boiling off these nasties and allowing the PCV system to pull them out of the crankcase. IDLENG TIME DOES NOT COUNT!!
PCV = PositiveCrankcaseVentalation
This is one reason that "short trips" and "cold weather" fall under the "schedule B" maintenance schedule.
(Ill bet you have to replace exhausts/mufflers often (every 2-3 years) on your other vehicles due to the short trips.)
Have you ever seen the water droplets coming out of the tailpipe of a car that was reciently started?
QUICK HIGH-SCHOOL CHEMISTRY REVIEW; Gasoline contains the Hydrogen Air has the Oxygen combine them (BURN THE GAS) and the result is HEAT and H2O (water) also H2SO4 (supheric acid) is created due to sulpher being present in the Gasoline.
Fuels are hydrocarbons, which means hydrogen combined with carbon in various forms. The "combustion" or splitting of the carbon and hydrogen bonds takes place in the presences of oxygen and this releases the stored energy. In a pure form, carbon dioxide (CO2)and water (H2O) would be the end products but gasoline isn't that pure. Both the gasoline and the engine oil contain sulfur compounds that react with the moisture (H20) on either side of the piston rings and begins to form the sulfuric acid. BTW, nitric acid is formed too by the combustion because air is 78% nitrogen. The exhaust will have NO, NO2, NO3 which then combines with the free H2O. This also builds up in the engine oil.
Its my understanding that all of the modern engine oils have additives that will buffer or neutralize the build up of acids but after a while enough is enough. Above and beyond that level specific for the oil, the acids start attacking.
You are correct in that there are all kinds of chemical reactions within an IC engine. I was trying to keep it simple for those that have chosen to ignore the technology that we are immersed in our everyday lives.
BOTTOM LINE: Short trips exaberate the build up of nasties in the engine oil. Changing the oil more frequently will help remove these nasties from the crankcase.
Changing the engine oil at anything more frequently that 4000 miles is not only a waste of your hard-earned cash.... but also contributes the MILLIONS of gallons of oil that contaminate the envrionment each year.
NOTE: I just read an article about too-frequent oil changes... The amount of WASTE each year is mind-boggling (both $$ spent and envrionmental impact) All because people have been "brainwashed" into beleiving that their oil should be changed every 3000 miles by the people that get PAYED to change the oil.
bpeebles - You're on the mark about short trips being harder on equipment. I only live 6 miles from work (but retiring Feb 28, 2002) and this has always been hard on mufflers. I had two Volvo wagons from 1973 until 1999 and the short trips constantly ate up the mufflers. Other Volvo owners weren't have the same problems. Way I figure it, the mufflers never got warmed up enough (300+ degrees F) to prevent excessive amounts of sulfuric acid (sulfur out of the fuel and/or the catalytic convertor on the 1985 Volvo combining with the normal combustion moisture) from condensing in the system. Went with a Midas system after a while and only had to pay for the pipes.
Comments
Talked to Goodyear rep and he said to go with Goodyear Wingfoot HT in a 255/70/15. Not in love with Goodyear and am looking for suggestions.
I apologize up front if this is an often repeated question. I don't have time to search back through the threads to find out. My 9-month old is already tried to pull the cable connection out of the wall twice. Got to type fast or Oh no, stay away from there. Don't touch it, no please, don't bite it.....
Gotta go...
Bye the way, 33,000 miles: one battery, one burnt cylinder valve, other than that a great truck. Also looking for better brake pads than OEM.
Thanks a bunch. Still the best owner's group around.
KnK
WOAA... I have said that the Bosch +4 sparkplugs have shown to work well in the 4.7L V8 hemi engine. I never meant to infer that other engines would respond likewise.
Your 5.2L engine is a 1960's based design and I have not done research for that engine. (I do recall the somting OTHER than the Bosch +4 was mentioned often... but I did not take any notes on this engine.)
==========
You asked for my thoughts on the "colder plug" and "colder thermostat" changes that some folks suggested for the 5.2L engine.
Keep in mind that a "colder" sparkplug is simply one with a shorter center electrode that conducts the heat from the tip to the head faster. Doing plug readings is the ONLY way to determine the proper heat-range for your driving conditions.
As for running a colder thermostat from stock... the stock thermostat is intended to reduce emmissions by running HOT. many folks have found that running a cooler thermostat (185) can reduce the spark knock. Again... I have not researched this but I have never read of any problems caused by running a 185 thermostat.
Have you considerd going to the ROOT of your pinging problem? The 5.2L has several known "fixes" for this problem. (Leaking intake gasket and carbon buildup in combustion chambers)
Please review the ARCHIVES on the following URL.
They are chock FULL of info about your "problem".
http://www.dakota-truck.net/
Knkresort, Pirelli Zeros are a good option but are expensive. If you go to the 70 series (255/70/15), Bridgestone Dueler HP's are highly rated and are cheap! Aspect ratio (i.e. 60,65 or 70 series) has nothing to do with rim width requirements, as it is the first number ( 255) that determines the width of the tire, hence the rim width required.
Even among different models of the same company, there can be a significant difference in tires. As an example, Michelin makes a Cross Terrain SUV and a LTX M/S. Both are rated 'all season highway LT'. The LTX has an overall diameter of 29.2 inches vs 29 inches for the SUV (712 rev/mile vs 719) The LTX 255/70 has a dia. of 30.2 inches(694 rev/mile). The LTX 235/70 is 29.1 in., but is not rated for rims over 7.5 inch.
The SUV in that size can be put on an 8 inch rim.
There is also a significant load difference between the two model. The SUV is rated for close to 2-300 lbs more per tire than the LTX, depending on size. This is only one manufacturer. Compare to Goodyear and the others and it can get real interesting.
Ron35
I think you will also see that the diameter of a 215r75-15 is also almost the same and this size was the factory tire on the 93 Dakota I had. I replace those within the first 100 miles with 235r70-15 Goodyears because I couldn't leave a stoplight without spinning my tires. My personal opinion is that for someone who does not care to pay the premium for the 255 tires that the 235r70 tires are a safe and economical alternative. I have to say that this opinion is based on my experience with 15" rims, although logically it should carry over to 16" rims if the tire sizes and aspect ratios are adjusted. Rick
"I was planning to go to a copper core plug anyway."
Do not forget that virtually ALL BOSCH, NGK and ND (nippondenso) sparkplugs are copper core and have ALWAYS been copper core for the last 25 years.
It seems that CHAMPION and AC do not use copper normally and instead pretend that COPPER CORE is some special invention they dreamed up and have a "special" line of product that have COPPER CORE. The truth is that CHAMPION sparkplugs are cheap and do not last... thus need to be changed often. Even their copper-core plugs DO NOT use nickle plating on the metal portions of their products. (which is STANDARD on all BOSCH plugs) [the nickle plating resuces the chances of damaging your engine during removal 40,000 miles later.]
Do not take my word for it... go to a parts store and ask them to show you a BOSH, ND, NGK, CHAMPION, and AC plugs... you will visibly SEE the quality in some of them. (I will let you guess which ones.)
Of course... one can buy CHAMPION plugs at WALLMART for $2 each while BOSCH plugs are made in germany and cost around $5 each.
DO NOT FORGET... BOSCH invented the first sparkplug!! everyone else has been playing catch-up ever since.
Bear in mind this facet of products.
When you see stuff showing up in Waldo World for 2 bucks (like Fram filters for instance), something in the design and the quality has to get cut back.
How else can wally world sell stuff for as cheaply as they do? Remember, they are a discounter! Discount SOMETIMES=lesser quality.
Witness HOmelites disastrous foray into the super cheap world of Home Depot. ONce Homelite (like Mcculloch) was a very respected name in outdoor power equipment. Then they got greedy and said, hey, lets ditch the independent hardware retailer and try the high volume high turnover world of home depot. And then John Deere said, wow, we've moved all production Mexico and STILL we can't turn a decent profit. Why? Because old timers said NO to the cheapening of Homelite and Homelite simply could not bust into the market share held my weedeater and Mcculloch and others. What they gained inshort term was total dissolution of the brand itself.
Ok, so what does this have to do with sparkplugs?Plenty.
same theory, when wally world or home depot starts carrying it, look out. You will most surely see quality go down (along with the price)
Latest news: Cub Cadet is going to be sold in LOWES stores this year. Stay tuned on that one.
I know the homelite situation very well because I work in the wholesale end of hardware & our stores pitched a royal [non-permissible content removed] when homelite said they would not sell anymore to independents.
You have a very good point about the "cheapening" effect. Anytime a manufacturer tries to make a "price point" product, there are shortcuts taken that affect the quality of the product. (Sometimes just removing the "quality control" steps in the manufacting process is a cost saver!)
The product looks, smells and feels the same... but the quality is missing.(Like the FRAM oilfilters)
You mentioned Cub Cadet... do not forget that John Deere just started selling a really cheap line of riding lawnmowers a few years ago. (sold from department stores.) The local farmers that have trusted John Deere for years were not impressed. (although one CAN go to a John Deere dealer to get the real thing for $2000 more)
Did you know that to be a JD dealer, you have to CARRY high usage parts for somthing like 10 years of products? When a farmer has a bailer break... there is no time to wait for a part to arrive next week!JD dealers even make HOUSE CALLS!! They come out to the farm and RIDE WITH THE FARMER on the tractor making adjustments in the field until everything works perfect. Now there is a real 5-star dealer
You can see why some farmers were agahst that JD is selling $700 riding lawnmowers at department stores while a REAL JD riding mower costs $2700.
Bookitty
I totally agree with you on the "new suit" theory where a guy comes along and fixes what isn't broken.
READ THIS BOOK, YOU WILL BE AMAZED AND HORRIFIED:
"THE TWILIGHT OF AMERICAN CULTURE" by MORRIS BERMAN
Truly a eye-opening experience.
I was terrified to buy a new domestic vehicle, but am so far very pleased with my 02 QC. I took a close look at an 02 Sport Trac the other day and was appalled at the quality, fit and finish, and sticker price. Maybe we are all really biased with our Dodge vehicles, but I am still sure that this was the absolute best truck I could have bought considering all factors.
On plugs: It was not the NAPA manager, it was the Autozone manager. I do not know from personal experience one way or another. I remember reading something about it long ago. Where or how reliable the source, I cannot remember. I have used the Bosch and Autolite platinums in the past, and would again in a heartbeat where I felt the application warranted. I have not liked Champions or AC plugs after some poor experiences decades ago. I have always done well with Autolites and plan on putting them in my Q. I passed on what I was told about the Bosch's in case someone would benefit. There could be a difference in the standard platinums and the +4s. It could be a thing that only affects x% of vehicles, or it could have been a bad batch of plugs. BTW all industries fight the battle between cost and quality. Vehicles today enjoy a better quality than 10, 20 years ago. The biggest problem is when a management change tries to increase sales by sacrificing quality. It never works. My favorite (or worse) case is what happened to Schlitz beer.
oh yeah...IDLE - smooth and steady
I work in an industry where our stores are asked to pay higher fees and yet they receive reduced services.
Seems to me (I guess I qualify as a younger member here?) that the profit-at-any-price mentality will eventually be our ruin. I get sick and tired of stuffed shirts bragging about shareholder value when I drive a less than well engineered truck. I could honestly care less what the dividend is this quarter,this year or whatever. I did not buy a a share of DC, but a product, there is a difference here!
Too often, stuffed shirts view automaking as an enterprise where one pours in as little money as possible on one end yet expects five star returns on the other end. It don't work that way guys!
Here's how that magic word, profit, is created.
Sales minus cost of goods sold equals profit. Sales(revenue) comes from, surprise, CUSTOMERS not shareholders! The guy who invested 5,000 bucks 30 years ago does not financially make or break a company. Why is it that I, with no business degree from Harvard, can figure that out but a seven figure salary bag of hot air in corporate america can't?
What burns my backside is not the engineer, the lineworker, or the plant manager but the corporate decision making process behind it all. I mean,hell, how desparate was DC in December 1999 when my truck was built that they had to cut corners on brakes? How low do we need to stoop for the dollar? Shareholders? They can kiss my you know what! Maybe they wouldn't mind donating some of that quarterly dividend so I can buy new rotors, drums, pads and shoes and pay someone the labor to replace it all.
Interesting to note: I read a paper on the study of Japanese television factories here in USA and how they sprouted up and six are still going strong, making good, affordable products (yes, with american labor, ain't that a shock!) while Zenith, Magnavox, SYlvania, and yes, that good old icon of what america was, RCA, packed it all in and either sold off to foreign concerns or moved production lock stock and barrel to Mexico.
I'm sure there's a lesson there somewhere.
By the way, with 8650 miles on my 2001 4.7L, auto, 2wd QC, the only problem has been a brake squeal, apparently from the rear, which is more irritating than anything else. Three times into the dealers to check it. Brakes sanded a couple of times, no problems found with pads, calipers, etc. I did get a 12 inch 'keying' on my right rear door, probably from parking at Walmart. That really sucks!
http://www.allpar.com/ed/tips/trans.html
Yes,it mainly hits on the cars, but the concept applies to what you talked about.
What should I expect my dealer to charge me to do this procedure?
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks for the input but i figured the plug recommendations would be the same between 5.2/4.7. Also, i stated that i already addressed the "root" of the problem of spark knock. after reading all the posts herein, it seems that dc simply screwed up the computer setings and the flash is needed and i've already done that. they also considered the manifold gasket and confirmed its ok. Right now, I'm just trying to make any/all compensations that I can to help this motor. thanks again. i'll standby for 5.2 inputs.
Anyway I finally got the OEM light module for the Durango (same color light as the dash illumination.. and a test of it looks like it will look and work great) and am ready to notch out the hole in my lower dash to insert it.. but need help on how to expose the dash units to get to the light wires...
The plastic seems ready to pull out.. so those who have removed it.. pointers are appreciated..
1) Radio stays on with key out
2) Courtesy lights do not function when doors open
3) Lights on A/C control on when headlights are off, off when headlights are on
4) Cigarete/power adapter not functional when headlights are turned on, when turned off, they are functional. Eventually they stop working
5) Power door locks click at CTM, but no lock/unlock (Even with transmitter)
6) When you turn the key in between the Start and Off position, you can hear the blower motor make a whining type sound.
Anyways... Any ideas guys?
Thanks
william
Drive Safe,
Joe
Ended up rescheduling to check that, and got the poor drivers door weatherstrip insulation and drivers side left cracked headlight lense (day one also) on order free under warranty as it should be. Just thought is was weird they put in 2 cans of modifier ..figure 2 cans of rear lube might be normal.
Final: 1 sealer 82300234 $9.20
2 Lubricant 4874469 $19 per can - I guess actual lubricant
2 Lubricant 4318060AB $6.25 per can - I guess friction modifier
labor $60.86
Sub $120.56
customer pay shop/environment for repair order $2.41 ?????
tax $7.37
Total $130.44
Figure price is typical as seen on some posts.. Just thought 2 cans of modifier might have
been unnecessary. No brake problems as of yet.!!
Waiting for Magnaflow to get the 4.7L Quad Cab catback built.
Their site only had reg and extended cab listed and they asked me to help get dimensions from the dealer to help..No help from dealer, just told me "we have pictures, and p/n's only"
Guess if gibson can make them, Magnaflow should be able to make them too!
LOVE THE TRUCK SO FAR! Driving the wife's accord just don't cut it...Ger
I bet they used the req amount and kept the leftover for another "customer" who will also get charged for 2 bottles of the stuff.
ANd DC moans on and on about losing money?
Maybe they should operate like a dealership!
My wife borrowed my Dodge and parked it proclaiming the brakes are failing! She refused to drive it.
Once again I returned to my five star dealer at 18k. Once again I was told the rotors are blue and once again need to be turned.
I almost forgot to mentioned my fog lights were out again.
Dealer turned rotors and replaced bulb in fog light. I struck my best deal and it cost me $28.10 to turn rotors. Here is where it gets better.
Three days after fixing everything I went on a three hundred mile round tripper(deer hunting).
6o miles from home I began to hear a thumping like I had a flat tire. It was pouring rain and I got out to see my tires in good shape and traveled on.
10 miles from home I began to hear a high pitch squeal.
I pulled into my driveway and looked around and under the vechicle. Then it caught my eye. FOUR nuts and studs were sheared off from my left rear tire!! Close examination revealed the remaining two studs(one almost sheared) were barely hanging on.
Least of my problem was my fog lights which were filled with water and bulbs had blown. This is my third time with fog lights.
I crawled with an escort to my five star dealership who now knows my DAK better than any in town.
It quickly drew a crowd including the master mechanic who admitted he pulled the tire a week prior to check my rear brakes.
My five star dealer after 5 hours of inspection claimed mechanic installed wheel nuts with impact wrench and may have over torqued with aluminum torque wrench.
Fog lights have been replaced (third time).
Would you believe my five star dealer had only four studs and bolts in stock I picked up my DAK and have to return to tommorow for installation. So I am driving with five nuts and was told it would be safe? I am so glad DODGE puts so much faith in their brakes.
I am glad GOD was my copilot, I shudder to think would have happen if the remaing studs sheared off at 70 miles an hour. I am one lucky guy and grateful to be alive. My DAK 4x4 with 21,000 miles who I have dubbed TIME BOMB, I am not sure of its future as Hairy dog its owner.
A fellow driving a small car had a flat tire in from of a mental asylum. He had no spare. He jacked the car and removed the four nuts holding the wheel and carried the flat tire to a nearby service station to have it repaired. When he had returned to his vehicle, he found that someone had stolen the four wheel nuts. Now he really had a problem, what could he do? All of a sudden a voice called out through the barred windows, "hey Mister, why don't you take one nut off of each wheel and then with three nuts holding each wheel you can drive carefully to an auto parts store and buy the other four nuts." The motorist was very impressed with this sage advice and called out, "that's a great idea. Do you work in the asylum?" "No" replied the man through the bars, "I'm a patient here." The motorist said, "wow with a mind like you have, what are you doing as a patient?" The man replied,"they never said that I was stupid, just crazy!"
Bookitty
Anyway dealer installed the last stud and lug nut this afternoon. I noticed no one would smile while I was present.
Would you believe a mechanic came over and stated that he had seen the same problem on a DAK before?
I hope and pray that no one regardless of vechicle you own will ever lose a tire as a result of sheared studs. I know without a doubt a few more miles and I would have experienced driving a truck with three wheels on the interstate. I keep thinking about my grandchildren and how grateful I am that they were not with me. The thought of what could have happened is on my mind.
I will be on the interstate tommorow and if I hear any strange sounds I will pull over and check each tire very carefully!
Anyway I appreciate this site and all who post their problems. I have learned a great deal and will continue to read and learn. Many Thanks!
On a side note, I was checking under the truck to see how tough an oil change will be and was somewhat amused by the access to the oil filter. I have a feeling that once I pull the filter I will have quite a mess trying to get through that little access hole. Should be fun.
The truck driver told us he just picked up the truck from the dealer where it got a new rear axle. I spoke with the dealer and they gave her a loaner and made good on the repair.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Bookitty
Is schedule 'B' correct for your conditions? Your answer is...Perhaps.
If you read schedule B carefully, you will see it tries to cover cold weather and towing and dusty conditions and....etc etc.
The changes of differential fluid would certainly not HURT you wifes truck.
I can tell you I ahve almost 30,000 on my 2000 dak and my dealer tells me that changing the differential fluids IS NOT required. (I am in Vermont and see 4 months of cold weather each year)
If I were you, I would be much more concerned with the maintenance schedule of your automatic tranny. (NOW THAT IS COSTLY!)
You are correct that oil changes are a messy proposition. Several folks have invented some "tricks" to ease oil-filter changing. (such as cutting the bottom off of a liter soda jug and using the top part to catch the filer and guide the oil into the drain pan)
Thanks for the 2 liter soda trick for the oil change. It should make things go a little smoother.
I too have this occurring in my '00 QC, 4.7L, 5sp. and it seems to be getting worst. No only do I feel the vibrations build in the pedals, floor, gear shift, and steering wheel, I can hear increasing levels of engine noise. I have not taken it to a dealer but did look at the motor mounts and the rubber on the transmission brace.
I've been using Mobil1 5-30W and changing the oil and filter routinely. Since the 10,000 mile mark, I've been taking oil samples to heavy machinery fluids lab for wear metals analysis. Out of the 8-10 samples to date (24,000 miles now on the truck), none show that there has been anything alarming. The engine doesn't burn oil (checking the dip stick or smoke in the exhaust).
I keep hoping that its a motor mount because of the amount of what appears to be exhaust noise and vibration in the cabin. Feels like something got out of balance, especially under acceleration.
Answer; ? Is short trips detrimental to the life of the oil? as I am hoping since the TEMP does get up to the operating range rather quickly an stays in the normal (straight up) position, and I might drive only about 3-5 miles an leave the engine idling with the doors locked ( have an extra key ) normally only when in sight of the vehicle, but total time of operation might only be 15 min's since where I live everything is close by.... is this bad for the OIL or should I really get out on the Freeway every so often an run it up an down, to give the oil a workout?
Or if I am not driving this vehicle much what is the best way to Keep the oil in good shape? For instance, its only 3.6 miles for me to get to work one-way and I try to drive my nissan kc for that....or my Honda mc......
If you are only driving short trips, your oil is building up all kinds of moisture and acids. These acids then "sit" in the engine and eat at the metal parts while parked.You are not waring out your oil... but filling it with nasties that will shorten the life of your engine.
Pourposly going for a drive (over 30 minutes) every couple of weeks would go a long way twards boiling off these nasties and allowing the PCV system to pull them out of the crankcase. IDLENG TIME DOES NOT COUNT!!
PCV = PositiveCrankcaseVentalation
This is one reason that "short trips" and "cold weather" fall under the "schedule B" maintenance schedule.
(Ill bet you have to replace exhausts/mufflers often (every 2-3 years) on your other vehicles due to the short trips.)
Have you ever seen the water droplets coming out of the tailpipe of a car that was reciently started?
QUICK HIGH-SCHOOL CHEMISTRY REVIEW;
Gasoline contains the Hydrogen
Air has the Oxygen
combine them (BURN THE GAS) and the result is HEAT and H2O (water)
also H2SO4 (supheric acid) is created due to sulpher being present in the Gasoline.
Its my understanding that all of the modern engine oils have additives that will buffer or neutralize the build up of acids but after a while enough is enough. Above and beyond that level specific for the oil, the acids start attacking.
BOTTOM LINE: Short trips exaberate the build up of nasties in the engine oil. Changing the oil more frequently will help remove these nasties from the crankcase.
Changing the engine oil at anything more frequently that 4000 miles is not only a waste of your hard-earned cash.... but also contributes the MILLIONS of gallons of oil that contaminate the envrionment each year.
NOTE: I just read an article about too-frequent oil changes... The amount of WASTE each year is mind-boggling (both $$ spent and envrionmental impact) All because people have been "brainwashed" into beleiving that their oil should be changed every 3000 miles by the people that get PAYED to change the oil.