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Comments
atokaD
Bookitty
Long live the BOB!
One note: I do a lot of town driving and after a week to ten days, I get a slight rough idle when warm in gear. Hasn't stalled or anything but feels shaky nonetheless. Cure: Warm up the motor first and thoroughly. THen I find an open stretch of hiway and take it out there and run it hard thru the gears. I do that twice, once each way. It helps to blow some of the excess carbon off the valves and the O2 sensors. And I'm fine for about another two weeks. This is a symptom of lots of town driving. WHen I last drove to Indiana from here (about a 450 mile trip) the further along I drove, the better the truck ran.
Bill
I also wonder if your plugs are gapped properly? There are instances where the factory just puts em in w/o setting the gap. That would surely lead to a rough idle. refresh my memory, how does it run just after you start it and it gets over the stumble issue?
BTW kudos to you for using good gas. I still cannot beleive how many people I know here in PA use the cheapest stuff around then complain when their vehicle does not run right.
See if BPEEBLES can weigh in on this, he might have a trick that I am missing. I read the BOB already and boy oh boy does it get intense.
"I work for a dealership in CA...Idling at 500 rpm is normal after the first 3000
miles..before 3000 miles the 4.7 is designed to idle at 750 rpm. when it hits
3000 rpm the computer sets idle at 500 rpm..(federal emssions standards). There
is nothing you can do about the idle, however there is a tsb for a flash
(reprogram of PCM) that will help the stalling. You will however still have that
rough type idle..any questions you may ask."
comments?
Ron35
robert
After 3weeks of 90-degrees... This shoveling snow and cold is hard to deal with... Perhaps its the jetlag...
I am allready scheduled to go back to Singapore in 2weeks.
Bookitty
In the old days an intake manifold gasket leak would cause the idle to increase. When you sprayed some carb cleaner around it the idle would drop. I believe if there is a leak the computer is trying to decrease the idle to "normal" but the leak is causing it to be rough and the, in reality, too low idle is causing the stalling.
The new intake manifold is composite material, it is possible it may be warped or the surfaces not quite right.
I would have the intake and gasket checked. Correct then have the idle speeds set. That might be one solution.
Hell, I got an excellent 68 Barracuda back in 1979 for 100 bucks because AAA motor analysist told the owner the engine needed to be rebuilt. All it needed was an intake manifold gasket.
namfflow: the dealer said on visit #2 idle was good in the shop (on the "machine" i assume, in park). Can i check for leaks without having an automotive engineering degree on this engine?
As always.. THANKS!
"Recall Alert: DODGE TRUCK DAKOTA, DODGE TRUCK DURANGO
Owner Notification Date: 4/9/2001
Number of Units Potentially Affected: 85,400
Component Description: POWER TRAIN TRANSFER CASE (4-WHEEL DRIVE)
NHTSA Campaign Number: 01V077000
Description of Recall Campaign:
Vehicle Description: Light duty trucks and sport utility vehicles equipped
with 4-wheel drive. The electric shift transfer case may not fully engage into
gear when the operator moves the transfer case selector switch.
This could cause the transfer case to end up in the neutral position
unexpectedly and allow the vehicle to roll away if the parking brake is not
applied.
Dealers will reprogram the transfer case control module.
Owner notification began April 9, 2001. Owners who take their vehicles to an
authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free
remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at
1-800-843-1403. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236)."
Hope this is useful.
Just get a can of spray carb cleaner and pop the hood on the truck. You might have to take the air filter assembly off to gain access but with the engine running, spray a little carb cleaner around the base of the intake manifold. If you hear the idle drop or if it dies you got yourself a leak.
Some people use wd-40 but that makes too much a mess. Besides with carb cleaner it gets into the manifold and will burn out thru the engine without negative effects.
Is this common or do I keep working to get it fixed?
Vehicle;
2000 Dakota with 4.7L V8 Hemi engine
Symptoms;
Rough Idle when engine is cold-started.
Rough Idle in drive when vehicle not moving.
Several trips to dealer have told you that the idle is "within specifications"
My thoughts;
This is definitely not "normal" even when accounting for the idle idiosyncrasies that this engine exhibits at times.
The dealer should be "brought to task" on this problem. This is a REAL problem and you have to make it known. (Oftentimes the dealer has to see a "complaint" several times before they acknowledge it as existing. The unfortunate truth is that the dealers hear people complain about all kinds of stuff and the dealers initial response to ALL complaints is to 'blow it off' and see if you come back.)
The dealers have vacuum testers available. (The availability of a knowledgeable technician to read the results may be questionable)
There is a unit that the dealer can attach to your vehicle computer that will "record" all sensor inputs as you drive for several days. This can then be connected to the main computer to assist with problem determination.
The dealer has online connections to a network of technicians. The computer readings can be shared around the globe for problem resolution. (I receive that "Dodge magazine" since I bought my Dakota and it touts this as a "world class" maintenance technique. I would not be afraid to take this magazine into the dealer and POINT OUT the article that describes this system.)
Certainly a vacuum leak should be considered (as others have suggested.) But this is a NEW vehicle and you should not NEED to be troubleshooting it yourself.
Try another dealer!
Good luck!!
Case in point, I had the PCM flash done during the winter here in PA. All the while it was cold, the thing lit right up, ran like a champ. Since then (this week to be exact) it has started to warm up a bit (50's 60's) And guess what? I am getting the same stuff as ahasher. Only difference is mine runs ok when warm. According to the BOB, which I finished tonite, there is a the open loop mode which does not get data from the O2 sensor. That blows my theory that the O2 sensor is incorrectly detecting a "rich" condition. The only other thing I can figure is the IAT sensor is sensing a value which tells the PCM the temperature is warmer than it actually is. This would indicate to me that it thinks the PCM should lean out the AF ratio, and I know for sure ANY engine with a too lean mixture will run rough. At least that is my theory which I will advance to my service guy tomorrow.
Another fellow told me it could be an intake manifold leak. If so, then wouldn't mine run poorly ALL the time? In ahasher's case, that could be the culprit. I am none to gung ho on plastic intakes on any internal combustion engine. Yeah I know cast iron is heavy but never have I had to replace one on my other older mopars.
Weigh in with your opinion. I come here just to see what you have to say and I have learned a lot so far.
Well not to much, I had to pay for my BOB!
I had a 75 Cordoba with the 360 and even after a new timing chain, it still knocked a bit when cold. Heck, I drove it to 175K that way and it still ran when I sold it.
Chrysler has written a TSB (I don't have it) which says its a normal noise and "they all do that".
Drive Safe,
Joe
Again, thanks for your help.
Bill
TIme for you to be a real horses rear end and push until they do something
Can someone tell me what marks are used to time, and how to make sure it is in time.
It is a 3.9 Liter.
It has a . dot & a / hash mark.
Are the dots supposed to line up, as a small block Chewy does?
Or do the hash marks have something to do with the timing?
Any Help, Please
Thank You
Tim -- Day ton, Ohio
dick
Service Bulletin Number: 1802300
Bulletin Sequence Number: 167
Date of Bulletin: 0012
NHTSA Item Number: SB616726
Make: JEEP
Model: GRAND CHEROKEE
Year: 2000
Component: ENGINE
Summary: SOME VEHICLE ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT PART THROTTLE OR WIDE OPEN THROTTLE SPARK KNOCK; SAG OR HESITATION FOLLOWING A COLD ENGINE START; ROUGH IDLE; IDLE SAG WHEN DECELERATING TO A STOP. *TT
Bookitty
Oh well.. still love the QC... for example, I washed and waxed it last week.. took it for a drive for a home depot run (must appease the bride and work on the HOUSE once in a while ) and after 13 mos. of driving, I GOT 3 COMPLEMENTS!
:-)
Is this normal?
Its when the roar stops totally regardless of hot or cold engine is when I worry.
Yes, its a bit loud but simply doing its job. Try turning the radio up and see if that helps.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Bob
so, 2 weeks later, im crawl under my truck to check on oil, and i find oil again - this time, it looks like the oil is coming from the rear of the oil pan, and possibly the rear crankshaft seal - im more concerned because it collects at the bottom of the bellhousing and the dust shield...i dont know if its engine oil, clutch oil, or manual transmission oil.... engine and transmission seem to be running ok....
has anybody had this happen to them?
"Another fellow told me it could be an intake manifold leak. If so, then wouldn't mine run poorly ALL the time?"
The answer is that a leaky seal may actually "seal up" after warming up due to thermal expansion.
I'm out of ideas but I don't care anymore. That is what the warranty is for and on April 18, Preston dodge gets to put their knowledge and training to the test.
Stay tuned.
I guess I need to see the dealer and get the "EMF pulse" to erase all of those learned bad habits.