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Comments
bpeebles and ahasher: Stay tuned, this should be interesting.
BTW, the line "they all do that" or "the scan tool didn't pick up any codes" won't work with me.
They will let me use a Rental car while they have the truck.
I hope it will be a comfortable car as I anticipate driving it a while.
Floating power....yup I recall now how Plymouth civilized cars because of it.
Fred Zeder, Carl Breer, Owen Skelton......all belong in the automotive hall of fame if not already!
Is it a shuddering, shaking type of vibration? Or is it more like mine, which has a subtle type of feedback vibration, or drone, as your service guy stated.
It's hard to explain exactly how it feels, but I would say it "feels" kinda how road noise "sounds", right in the pedal itself.
No other vehicles I've ever owned had any weird feeling like this--all were relatively smooth.
Has about 47K miles.- thanks
Had a sheet of plywood hit my tailgate , Big dent and want a new white tailgate for it any ideas where I could get one ?? I know I can buy one for 250.00 and have it painted but I would rather try to find a cherry one that was factory painted Please Advise
TraumaGas@aol.com
So do I my friend so do I. I envision an argument because I know damn well they'll hook up the DRB tool and say "Golleeeee, there ain't no trouble codes in here so we can't fix it"
Ever see a scanner tool get inserted someplace on the human body?
Me neither.
Might see it happen this Wednesday though.
"Golleeeee, there ain't no trouble codes in here so we can't fix it"
Yup, that just about sums it up.
I had the MIL come on once, after 4 restarts the light went out never to appear again. By the time I got the truck to the dealer, the light was out, and they "could not duplicate". At least the problem was documented in case it reappears.
However, I did the ignition switch routine on-off-on-off-on and got a code P0320.
Hope they figure out your problem.
By the way, I did not know that a scan tool can take someone's temperature.
good luck,
Bob
I can't wait for you enviromentalists' to get back to me!
The power steering cooler functions the same way, it circulates the fluid to the cooler where excessive heat is given off thereby cooling the fluid. Result is lower operating temperatures for your power steering pump. Which means longer life for the pump and rack.
The end result of having both these on your truck is longer life for your power steering components and transmission. This is especially true if you haul heavy loads or do a lot of towing. In fact, a transmission cooler is MANDATORY if you do towing. Heat is the biggest enemy of an automatic transmission. Heat breaks down the fluid, the fluid then cannot lubricate properly and all kinds of maladies start to happen.
Even if you don't do heavy duty towing or hauling, both are still good to have. Anything that keeps the transmission temperature at a reasonable level is a big plus. Get those options.
Thanks for the answer and advice. I had some idea about the trans cooler; my car has one. But I didn't really know about the purpose of them and you answered that.
thanks,
tom !!!!!!!!!!111
good luck
robert
Is the 5.9/46RFE a more stable (older) platform?
Are there any reliability or maintenance issues or differences?
Just asking to gather info for a purchase.
Two co workers have full size rams with the 46RE and I have driven both (they have the 360) and I can tell you the 46RE shifts much better than the 45RFE. Drive hard, easy, or inbetween, and the 46RE shifts like a charm.
Bpeebles got a five speed and if you really want the 4.7, then go with the five speed manual. If I had it to do over, that is what I would do. But its your choice and this is only my opinion.
tom !!!!!!!!!1
Sounds more like a design/manufacturing flaw to me.
I'll bet that if you switched dealers and found one that has a mechanic who KNOWS how to work on it that it would be fixed once and for all the first time.
I have been a mopar man for several decades. In all this time I have yet to see a dealer mechanic who knows what he is doing. That is what Chrysler's problem is. Poor dealer service.
Guess I'll have to decide how bad I want this fixed and make a drive over there.
At least one thing is nice and that is my dealer gives me a car to drive.
The Camry is nice. But a truck it ain't.
How do these engines stand up? With Auto Trans?
How is the heater for COLD country
Price is 63% of new -- too high in my opimion ??
Wil eiher buy new or take this clean machine
Great site -- will stay with it & see how she goe!
I would like some recommendations on which product to use in order to get off tar and other stubborn gunk that would not wash off.
Thanks,
Bob
I washed my Gretchen last week and I can attest that the stuff that accumulates on the lower body panels (tar, bugs, animal parts, etc.)can sure be a bear gettin' off. I ended up using a combination of "goof-off" (my middle name) and wd-40. between the two of them she cleaned up pretty well, but elbow grease also had to be applied (bookitty knows of a couple of on-line suppliers of elbow grease).
:-)
Enjoy your bath!
scottie
However, I remember using turpentine to remove tar
and road [non-permissible content removed]. It reportedly has the same base as packaged bug and tar removal.
Bookitty
Needs to warm up a little to see if the starting problem is cured once and for all.
Stay tuned. If this don't fix it, bpeebles will get a visit from me this year. While he sleeps, I will take his PCM and swap it with mine. He'll never know!
Drive Safe,
Joe
That's my name too! Y'know there's something strange around here, has anyone noticed how many Bob and Norm's there are around here? Is Dodge targeting the Bob and Norm populations?!?
-uh, oh yeah... Bob, I use Castrol Super Clean as an adjunct to cleaning the truck. You can find it at K-mart or any auto store. It's great stuff and cleans grease, tar, and bug goo that soap won't touch (It's probably dilute kerosene!).
I have: QC with 4.7 / 4x4 / 5sp / lsd
I was looking to change all of the fluids this weekend & when I looked at the specs for the fluids it said (in the BOB & owners manual):
Front Axle: SAE 75W-90 gear oil
(that's good - no questions about using synth oil)
Transfer case: Type 7176 ATF - (standard mopar auto xmsn fluid)
NV 3500 transmission (5spd manual): Mopar PN 4874464 is the ONLY type recommended or accepted
Rear Axle: SAE 75W-90 gear oil
(I am currently using Mobil 1 synth with the required Mopar friction modifier for LSD)
My questions:
1) Is there a Automatic transmission fluid that is synthetic to replace the type 7176 ATF?
2) Is there anyone using a synthetic in a 5sp manual? Is so, what weight/type & have you had any problems with it.
3) If anyone has changed the fluid in their 5sp manual, what type (brand/weight) did you use (dino or synth)
4) Can Dodge prohibit using anything but Mopar fluids in the transmission?
Thanx for any help,
Preston
AKA: Cowtown Aggie
biglucy...A lot of Bob and Norms. just like the TV show "This Old House"
I agree, seems there are a lot of Roberts around. Have you experienced that when someone says "Hey Bob", half the room turns around?
Drive Safe,
Joe
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/toys.htm
those decisions were reversed. A couple in court, a few following letters from attorneys, and the rest when field people told them to "grow up!" If the product that you use is sound and meets the requirements set forth by the manufacturer (we know that D/C does not actually produce any of these lubricants) then the manufacturer must accept them or have one damn good reason for turning down a warranty claim. By providing the supplier with the part number; Mopar PN 4874464 they should be able to supply an "equal to or better than" classification product. Usually the suppliers can cross reference manufacturers' part numbers. The trick here, is to see if a synthetic product meets specifications. There are so many
generic type products that are the exact replication of specialty items that sell for many more dollars. Air tool oil @$5.95 for a 4 ounce bottle; ATF $.99 per quart. Butcher block oil @ $5.95 per 4 ounce bottle; mineral oil $1.29 per pint and so forth. Hope that this helps.
Bookitty
However, the idle has improved vastly. 625-650 RPM in drive, no stalls on cold starts and no longer does the idle dip down when at operating temp while in drive. Third time a charm? I sure hope so.
Tranny still shifts like a dog. Anyone interested in a 45RFE? This is like a box of chocolates, you never know what kind of shift you will get: Hard, firm, lazy, or just when you nod off, a big SLAM! WIll make deal, no reasonable offer refused. Prefer to trade for non-electronic 727 Torqueflite if available. WIll consider hi-milage units, as the 727 can be rebuilt for a song. Will include TCM (transmission control module) as a bonus!
Don't delay!
In all honesty, I carefully eyeball the needle and watch it during idle. That is how I came up with my numbers. I can only say what the tach says. Heck, after all the slam shifting, maybe its none too accurate anymore. Maybe.
UPDATE!!!! Going for a ride with my SERVICE MANAGER this wednesday. During that ride, I will insist he try to drink coffee. Between the herky jerky tranny and the shakin brakes, he will have a hefty dry clean bill.
;-)
scottie
Bookitty