Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I can personally provide the 200 LBS for the driver's seat and have since filled the tank. I wouldn't have thought of the prerequisites you mentioned.
I asked the service advisor about this and he looked at me like I was speaking a different language.
Would you believe that I was told that my 4.7L V8 Hemi was"supposed" to take 5 quarts of oil. When I referenced the owners manual, I was told that the book was wrong. I then referenced the BOB they had in their shop... I was told that it was wrong too.
I finally asked them to provide me with a WRITTEN TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Dodge about this change in oil capacity. At this point I was referred to the Service Manager who acknowledged that the documentation was correct.
How did I know they only put 5 quarts in my crankcase? I have to supply the Synthetic oil which comes in 6-quart boxes. They only used 5 quarts to change my oil.
Most of you know that I reserch this stuff regularly and I have not posted this here for almost 4 months.
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/17/001725EQ.html
I feel your pain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have owned several vehicles that exhibit this so-called 'popping sound' when turned sharp to one side and a bump is encountered (wheel-jerking can cause it too slickwilliedj .)
Starting in 2000, the Dakota received a brand-new front end. This included Rack-n-Pinion steering and IFS. (Independent Front Suspension) This is all suspended with Torson-bar springs.
The benefits are enormous. Handling better than some cars. Less unsprung weight and better steering geometry. This is one reason I BOUGHT a Dakota. Everywhere you look, it is a better design.
Lets not forget that just because we hear a sound, feel or smell something, it is not automatically a "problem". Perhaps a concern to some people... but NOT a problem.
also, the manual states that with the towing package you get a 7-4 adaptor, wiring harness for electric brake controller and 3 relays. anybody get the relays? my truck didnt have them and every truck on the dealers lot doesnt have them. you are supposed to install the relays if you install the brake controller so it should have been in the bag with your adaptor and pig tail. any answers?
also, anybody know why they changed and what the difference is in the new tranny fluid, its not 7176 atf+3 in my 2001 multispeed its atf+4 9602. also the tranny fluid change is 100k miles if you do the a schedule and 30k miles if you do the b schedule. the 7176 was 30k miles with a schedule and 15k miles with the b schedule. and is the new fluid required like the 7176 was?
questions, questions, questions?
thanks
robert
I have the tow package on the truck. No relays were supplied in the bag. I have not looked, but are the relays already installed where the relays go?
Bob
FYI: 2001,QC, SLT+, 4x4, 4.7, multi speed auto, 3.55, HD service.
I am getting very close to the coveted 600 miles on the odometer (dying to put this puppy through its paces) and was wondering if a certain whine should be heard from the engine/tranny. I believe that this noise have been present from day one and never really thought too much about it, but you never know so who better to ask than the boys (and girls)!
The whine that i am talking about sounds like what you get when you put a lot of pressure though a hydraulic line. All most like the whine one would get from a low power steering pump, just not as loud. One could also liken it to the whine from a blower (oh how i wish!) but again not nearly as loud. It is dependent on engine speed, but I think only when in gear. It seems to me like it is simply the tranny winding through its gears, but am somewhat unsure.
The tranny shifts fine, and she runs like a dream, I'm just curious if this is common with all 4.7 auto's. don't want to mash anything up.
Thanks,
Blue
any info greatly appreciated.
robert
also, whatever happened to the get togethers across the country?
robert
Bob
There are many manifestations of this whine including during deceleration and at certain speeds or loads. Some people seem to be more sensitive to this whining sound too.
Apparently some differentials, although they may be within tolerance, can whine at times. Others may have enough 'play' in them to clunk when unloaded. (for automatic xmission, this could be a D-R or R-D shift)
These are not a 'problem' from a reliability standpoint and your dealer may tell you it is normal.
You may not want your dealer opening up your differential to mess with it anyway. Without special training and experience... it is VERY easy to make things worse.
DC has apparently had problems with DANA as of late. DC has announced that they will be changing to another vendor to manufacture differentials... this, obviously, will not help your immediate concern.
It has been reported that changing to synthetic gear lube has helped. Also, differentials tend to get quieter as they get some miles on them. (the meshing gears tend to 'shape' themselves to each other as the mating surfaces get VERY shiny. )
Neither sound is very loud, at least not to the point that it bothers me, i'm just not sure if it should be doing this. I'll take it for a spin during lunch and report back with a little better discription.
Thanks
Blue
obert
I think that the whine that I hear is the timing gear drive.
I know that when you build a motor... say a bowtie 350 (come on! it is the most popular). If you put in a gear drive in place of the timing belt you get a whine. Kind of like a quiet blower.
Bear with me, I do have pretty good ears and that may explain it.
It increases with engine speed, can be heard while in park, is definetly not the rear end.
If anybody can confirm, it would be appreciated.
Thanks again!
Blue
The timing drive is 3 seperate chains with an idler where a 'normal' camshaft would be. There are no GEARS involved.
I guess that one with sensitive hearing such as yourself would have little trouble detecting all of that metal moving around in the front of the engine.
I know that an ALTERNATOR will emit a "whine" while under load. Does it get louder when the lights are turned on?
Noises are hard to describe and one noise to one person will sound perfectly normal to another. I know of several posts mentioning the bzzzz tick... from the 45RFE. WHen my dad drove a Dynasty 1991 (had the A604 ultradrive)he took it back to the dealer after two days complaining about the bzzzz tick when he shifted into drive. It was explained to us this was normal.
Skeptical, I listed out for minivans and other Mopar cars with that tranny and after a week I heard more buzzz tick than I care to remember.
But to the virgin ear or untrained ear, it sounds like a major problem. It's not.
A water pump bearing can also contribute to a whine also.
Remember the 2.2/2.5 four bangers? I had a Reliant and that sucker always whined no matter what oil or filter I used. Solution? Turned up the radio.
Jim H
I will have to pop the hood this weekend and give it a real good listen as I was unable to get dirty the other day.
Again, the noise does not seem to hinder perfomance or signal a mechanical problem so I'm not to worried about it, just trying to get to know my Qaud inside out.
I'll let you know what i find!
Thanks for the input!!!
BlueBayou
Certainly, an alternator whine is almost a "whistle" sound while the Power-steering-pump can be described as a groan or gear-churning sound.
As I said previously, turning on the lights often makes an alternator "whistle" louder.
The "Test" for a power-steering-pump sound is to turn to the lock and "gently" hold the steeringwheel while listening for the sound.
(CAUTION: Weak hoses may burst during this "test" It is never a good idea to turn to the lock in either direction with any force.)
The whine does not change pitch or volume when i turn the wheels. It does give me the yelp when you hit either lock, but most will do that. Steering effort is light and it seems to be operating correctly. The fluid is at the proper level etc.
I guess that I will have to let the dealer know when i take it in for the once over.
If anybody has any sugestions, please feel free to let them fly
Thanks
Blue
Since this is "supposed" to be a sealed unit, have the dealer order a replacement under warrantee. (Drilling a hole in the bottom of it IS NOT AN OPTION although I had one dealer actually suggest this as a fix.)
But none the less, I'm wondering if this is a "problem" that can or should be corrected (as bpeebles points out, I'm not saying it is a problem). What, if anything do you recommend?
Also noticed, that the right rear tire extends 1/2"+ beyond the outer edge of the wheel flare (while looking from behind the vehicle), and the left rear tire is "inside" the edge of the wheel flare by the same amount . I believe I saw other posts about this. I have the 16" wheels with the T&H package, 4WD Sport. Again, a problem or no?
(ahasher) I think I know a little how you felt. Friday they put down the PetroMat and covered it with oil and sand on the streets that are being re-surface in my neighborhood. So Saturday they started putting down the final layer and I decided wait to take the truck out (1 week old). Well they didn't finish, but by Sunday I couldn't wait anymore and headed out. A noticeable feeling of relief after not driving for even one day. Just had to go 2 MPH for a few blocks.
Thanks
One question from my explorations: what's the purpose of the 2-to-3" diameter metal tube mounted in soft rubber across the frame between the rear bumper and the spare tire? Why do I want the extra vibrating mass back there?
Finally, it looks as if the rear shocks might be leaking somewhat. Is there a better way to test them than bouncing up and down on the rear bumper and trying to count rebounds?
The benefit of any and all expertise is appreciated!
There have also been many complaints on the 2000 Quad of bed misalignment. If the bed is re aligned you MUST replace the mounting bolts per the shop manual. They have a coating that prevents them from vibrating loose which gets ruined when the bolts are removed. The book states to use new bolts so keep that in mind if you opt for the dealer to realign the bed. I thought that this problem was corrected on the 2k1 models but some must be slipping through the crack. Unless it really bothers you I'd leave it alone.
I bought a brand new Nissan Maxima SE in 1985, this was the first "luxury" car I'd ever owned. When it was running you could put a glass of water on the hood and not see any ripples. I took it to the dealer for the first routine service about 7500 miles and they fixed my idle for me. They made sure there I could see ripples in the water and added vibrations in the steering column so I could feel if it was running if I didn't have a glass of water to check. Thats when I bought my first Shop Manual. Unless it is a clear cut warranty issue no one works on my truck or car but me. Rick
(As you found with your Nissan Maxima..which is a fine automobile BTW)
As for the switch in axles between 2000 and 2001. I beleive you are mistaken. One's choice of options dictate which differential they receive. Both the 8.25" (10-bolt) and 9.25" (12-bolt)Pumpkins were available in 2000. (The choice of differential ITSELF is not on the option list)
Some drive shafts were coming from Dana others came from Mound Road Engine/Component plant. Recall this was an issue a few years ago when Chrysler decided to farm out driveshaft production to dana.
6700 Lynch Road
Detroit, MI 48288
PRODUCTS: Rear drive axles - Jeep® and Truck
Automatic transmission differentials
Trailing axles - Minivans
Aluminum carriers
PLANT HISTORY: Facility built in 1917. Purchased by Chrysler in 1928. Major expansions in 1956, 1964, 1966, 1969, and 60,000 sq. ft. expansion in 1998.
Maybe the front torsion bar should be adjusted to compensate for the "leaning" and that will close these 2 questions for me. At least then I won't notice the slant down to the front right corner.
bpeebles, mopar67, any other input from you or others would be appreciated.
I do recall the BOB says never LOWER the torsion bar to the final adjustment but rather RAISE the setting to get the proper adjustment. SO in your case, if one side is lower then I would figure you could raise that side to the correct height.
As bpeebles stated before, this is an excellent design on chryco vehicles which is why they had the best suspension design in the industry.
unfortunately, when RWD went away on cars, so did torsion bars. Thankfully we can get them on our Dakotas as standard equipment!
I was under the front end of my quad for the first oil change and boy does it look different that anything that I've ever seen. Are there many vehicles using this type of design.
Just curious!
Blue
I looked for the FSM online and ended up at this website: http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
When I selected 2001 it only list items for a Ram Supplement and the PT Crusier. Dakota did show up under 2000. Should I get the 2000 edition for my 01 QC? Is there an 01 supplement?
Bpeebles?????? Input????
(1) After washing the new Dak, the clear coat is covered with what I would guess are hard water spots.(?) They are not rubbing out. Any suggestions?
(2) I, or someone else (dealer), have caused several what I will call minor "scuff" marks on the windshield. Thay may well be scratches. Again, any suggestions to remove or conceal?
(You DID use a chamious to dry your rig to eliminate waterspots...right?)
Check out this zymol product.
http://www.zymol.com/hd2.htm
I suggest you review the entire zymol web site and the following ones too. They are full of great info.
http://www.web-cars.com/detail
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/
Think of a coil spring that has been straightend into a rod.... this is a torsion bar. This design lowers the hood-height needed for the suspension since the torsion bar is actually at or BELOW the framerail height.... not up ABOVE the front tires.
Technecially... If one could visualize the forces on a coil spring, it is easy to see that the metal of the spring is actually TWISTED as the spring is compressed. A torsion bar encounters the very same twisting force as a load is applied to it.