Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

iowabigguy · June 2001

You probably have a bacterial or fungal growth in the AC housing. The dark, moist environment inside the AC blower housing has been known on newer cars to have this problem, especially in warmer climates. If you check an auto parts place they should have a spray to kill or control the odor. I have also heard if for the last few minutes you run your car, you turn off the AC and let the blower run on high (drawing in outside air), it helps to dry up the moisture. This should help retard the growth of the nasty smelling colony of whatever is growing in there. You could also maybe use a Lysol type spray to disinfect the AC. I would try spraying it into the vents by your windshield wipers while running the blower on high to pull the spray through the air ducts. Just some thoughts, hope it helps. Rick

biglucy · June 2001

Since bacteria and fungi need moisture to survive, Rick's suggestion of turning off the AC and turning the blower on high for a few minutes sounds like a good one. You may also want to turn on the heater and run that with the blower on to help dry out the moist areas in the housing.

bobs5 · June 2001

I agree, run the heater for awhile after the A/C is used in order to dry the works out and kill the stinkin bacteria.
Otherwise you'll have to go with the disinfectant flush of the air duct system.

namfflow · June 2001

Do NOT change the oil at 1000 miles. Do it at the recommended time. The reason is that the oil has metal particles suspended in it which are acting as a lapping compound to fine lap the cylinder walls. This is critical to having the rings seat without blow by. If you want the engine to last, follow the instructions for the 1st oil change.

victx · June 2001

I just posted in the Quad Cab folder, but wanted to post here also....

I've got stinky A/C too. I think I figured out that since my driveway is uphill, my condensation is not draining, encouraging molds to grow. After parking my truck uphill and letting it sit overnight, I turned it around real quick with out turning on the A/C and viola, condensation starts dripping. Something to think about. Maybe someone with a '01 service manual could look a the path the condensation needs to take to drain.

blackdakota318 · June 2001

I want to the change the gear ratio in my 98 Dakota 318 from 3.55 to 3.92. Will this effect the speedometer? And is the ring and pinion gears the only gears I would have to change? Thank you for any advice.

urban3 · June 2001

I'm still waiting for the FSM to arrive, so I've not done the specific measurements to check for correct ride height. However, since you & others mentioned this to me, I have noted specific measuring needed to be sure when talking about it.

The service manager did a 2 second diagnosis when I described the situation and did not measure anything. But I will.

Another question. You mentioned you "re-secure" (for lack of a better term) electrical connections and connectors. Are there, say, 5-10 top ones you suggest to hit? Since I don't have the service manual, I've just been looking around to find them. Also, would dielectric grease be of any help in preventing connector corrosion?

bpeebles · June 2001

The connections I "re-secureed" were actually ALL of the ground connections I could find under the hood.

One at a time, I unbolted each connector from the frame and SOLDERD the wire to the crimpon connector. Certanily dielectric grease would not hurt when re-bolting these to the frame/chassis.

Keep in mind that I tend to own my rigs for over 10 years. Here in Vermont, the winter salt attacks the whimpy crimpon connections and causes all kinds of electrical problems. The act of SOLDERING them fills all of the voids with solid metal that keeps out the salt spray that gets into every nook and cranny.

If you recall the "ticking" problem that the dealers were fixing by 'adjusting' a specific ground connection under the hood.... this is what encauraged me to perform the above procedure.

urban3 · June 2001

Bpeebles - As usual, thank again for the info. I also own vehicles for a number of years and hope to have the new Dak for as long as possible.

And here in northern Illinois, road salt is a problem for several months as well.

slickwilliedj · June 2001

would someone mind scanning and posting the factory procedure for measuring ride height on the 01 q/c 2wd with tire and handle pkg with specs........so those of us with ride height probs can measure correctly. thanks in advance!!!!!

urban3 · June 2001

I'm hoping mine will arrive this week. Ride height will be the first thing I look into. I'll keep you posted even if someone responds before then.

urban3 · June 2001

slickwilliedj - Well, the BOB was waiting for me when I got home today. My 01 QC 4x4 T&H definitely seems to be approx. 1/2" lower on the right, and possibly 1/2" lower than spec overall (even on the high side). I'm going to measure at a couple different level locations to confirm. All of the measuring points in the FSM are listed below.

mopar67 - As you noted the 2001 BOB is green (or shade thereof) in color.

4x2 frame side view measurements (in millimeters):

* Top side of frame most forward: 693
* Center line I take as between between the mounting holes of lower control arm: 410.1
* Hole inside of forward body mount: 440.0
* Top side of forward body mount: 459.9
* Bottom side of frame, aft of forward body mount, between 2 protrusions: 377.8
* Seam between forward and middle section of frame, under drivers door: 377.6
* Top side of rear body mount: 493.5
* Center of hole I take as forward rear spring mount: 381.7
* Center of hole where aft frame section is connected to middle frame section: 600.0
* Center of aft rear spring mount: 603.2
* Top side of frame most aft: 716.5

Qualification: This is my interpretation of the diagram. In some cases, it's a little difficult to tell the exact location to which the drawing is referring, i.e.; the center of a hole or the bottom. But it should give an idea of where to look and what the measurement should be.

bpeebles · June 2001

That is a lot of data but I beleive those specs. are for use on a frame-bending machine. Not sure how differing tire options fit into those numbers.

Here is the procedure from page 2-3 of the real BOB. This is, of course, for the 4X4 that has the adjustable front suspension.

1) Inspect tires for correct size and pressure
2)Jounce front of vehicle
3)Measure and record the distance between the ground and the center of the lower suspension arm rear mounting bolt head.
4) Measure and record the distancebetweent he ground and the center of the front wheel.
5) Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The difference between the two measurements should be 47mm (1.85") +/-3.25mm (0.125").

Always make adjustments to the torsion bar UPWARDS... ie.. if it is too high... you must lower BELOW the proper height and adjust up from there.

urban3 · June 2001

Bpeebles - What do you mean "real BOB"? The book I received is the 2001 Service Manual for Dakota ordered from DC. It's about 3-4" thick. Is this not the current year version of the book all refer to as the BOB? It just happens to be green for 01.

Your qualifications about tires and frame bending are duely noted. This may explain why I couldn't hit the specs anywhere. But it still seems the measurements are not the same from side to side using the specific measuring points.

slickwilliedj - As Bpeebles points out, yes that's a lot of data regarding frame measurements. Please be advised, I'm not a technician. Data alone without further info probably isn't of much use.

mopar67 · June 2001

we haven't discussed idle problems on here for a LONG time. My idle is doing fine now and I was wondering if you are having continued success.

bobsyvee · June 2001

BOB = Big Orange Book
The 2k1 book has been referred to as Teal in color so it would be BTB. ;>}

JimH

urban3 · June 2001

Yes thanks, I knew that's what BOB meant. When bpeebles said "real BOB" I thought he was suggesting that I wasn't referring to the service manual, whatever the color.

bpeebles (and others) has made it pretty clear to check specific measurements and not to guess about it. slickwilliedj asked if anyone with a service manual could look it up. So I did.

I now gather that there are certain procedures along with the measurements, not mention looking in the correct section of the manual. Since I'm not a service technician, I guess I better stick to asking the questions instead of trying to answer them.

bpeebles · June 2001

(bobsyvee) You are correct... I was just indicating that I have a
Big ORANGE Book My technical nature told be to specify both the PAGE# and actual book I was refering to... that is all I meant.

(urban3) Please accept my apologies... Your TEAL book is just not a BOB ;-) Your input is very welcome, I know you must have spent a lot of time typing that all in. We appreceate your efforts. (besides... some math against your numbers may be valuable to)

BTW... In what section of the BTB did you find all of those measurements... In the BODY section?

gator72 · June 2001

I have an '01 QC SLT+, 4.7, auto., 2-wheel drive, T&H pack., heavy duty, etc.

I live on the Gulf Coast; lots of heat and humidity. After about 15 minutes of run time, my A/C gets a musky odor when it is in the recirculating air mode. It usually clears up in a few minutes if I switch up to "outside" air mode.

A few months ago, the Dodge Service Tech said that, (surprise), this is "normal" for the recirculating mode. He told me to spray a disinfecting deoderant in the intake UNDER the DASH near the floor on the PASSENGER side while the A/C fan is on max; to draw in as much air as possible. Works great for about an hour. Then, it's back to the stinky A/C! So, when it starts to stink, I switch to "outside" air for a while to clear it up. But, hey, that's no fun!

I'm taking my QC in to the dealer tomorrow to check the front end noise (popping/creaking on right front while making slow right turns). I'll ask the service manager his take on the stinky A/C problem while I'm there.

I'll keep you posted.

GATOR72

urban3 · June 2001

Bpeebles - No problems here, but thanks for taking the time to clarify (and in usual form, colorize). From what I've read, yourself and others like to be precise in your discussions and I try to do that as well. I type fast, so a lot to one person is a few minutes to another.

You mentioned measuring from the frame a few times, so I looked for "frame" in the manual. Pages 13-8 to 13-10 have the dimensions for 4x2 & 4x4. The side view dimensions are only to a line in space. There's no mention of tire or wheel size.

In reading the section again, I noticed these terms, but do not know what they refer to. Any comments from the group?

The purpose of box-section front rails, dropped center section, and open-channel side rails?

The purpose of mass dampener on the QC and what are NVH issues?

bpeebles · June 2001

"box section front rails" refers to the SHAPE of the steel used to fabricate the frame. "BOX SECTION" is enclosed[] while "OPEN CHANNEL" is half of that ]

"Dropped center section" allows a lower 'floor' for the passenger compartment with less 'humps' in it.

"Mass Dampener" to reduce certain vibrations and create a quieter passenger compartment.

"NVH" I forgot... It is an acronym....let's guess at something "Normal Vehicle Holes", "Natural Volume History", "Nominal Viscous Handling", "Nice Voluptuous...no wait, not that either;-)

Perhaps somone else remembers NVH...

biglucy · June 2001

Bruce - A hearty thanks for all your info, I'm sure that goes for the rest of the gang as well...

By The Way - could you draw Mickey Mouse for bookitty????

bookitty · June 2001

"Et tu Brute?" Beside that, Bruce knows I like Donald Duck.

Bookitty

urban3 · June 2001

AUTB - As usual, thanks Bpeebles. A phrase I apparently have/will use often. mopar67 is right, the service manual is interesting reading. My wife joked that while sitting at the kitchen table, I looked like a spy pouring over the diagrams and making notes. As if I were trying to commit them to memory. As if! is right.

ahasher · June 2001

mopar67.. yep my 4.7 idle is as smooth as I could hope for. NO start-up idle stuttering (although it's not cold anymore, which I will see in the fall\winter). NO stop sign stutter. A steady ~ 600 RPM or so. My idle problems were pronounced enough where the difference after the fix was amazing.
However, I have noted one thing I sort of expected. The engine seems to have entered the "learning" curve again after the fix. I noticed the same conditions as when I first got it.. No problem though, it seems to be settling or "learning" my driving conditions quickly.
So overall; a happy QC, Even with a fuse box transplant ;-)

slickwilliedj · June 2001

did your truck also have the leaning problem ?

pmacey · June 2001

When going into reverse from park (never from drive to park), I hear a sort of clicking sound or something like a cable moving through a connector and rubbing...does anyone else have this sound and if so, what was the fix.

Only problem to date on my DAK QC with 1400 miles.

Thanks.

mopar67 · June 2001

if it sound like a bzzz tck then that is the solenoids in the transmission actuating and operating various valves and components.
I assume you have the 45RFE? Mine has done it since day one; as a matter of fact, most all MOPAR automatics make the buzzz tick sound when going from park to Reverse or drive or from drive to reverse and vice versa.
A bit weird but totally normal sound.

AHASHER?>>>>>>>rock on.. its great to have a good idle isn't it.. I kinda get to work on time more these days since I don't have to let the silly thing cough and sputter in the morning.
As you stated, I hope this fix works both summer AND Winter.

pmacey · June 2001

Yah, I think you described the noise better than I did, and yes, I have the multi-speed auto...gonna see if it does indeed do the same going from drive to reverse or even from park to drive...no biggie, just a 'new' strange vehicle sound (first truck I've ever owned)

BTW, don't hear the wind noise from my auto-vent shades anymore due to z-tube and flowmaster catback install, now thats a way to fix a 'noise' problem...sweet!

ethuresson · June 2001

Noise, Vibration and Harshness (Well, I know the noise and vibration are correct, the H part might be a different word, but the intent is the same.)

shawnh2 · June 2001

I have a 2001 Dakota CC, 3.9L auto. The truck seems to idle a bit roughly for about 3-5 seconds after a cold start. It runs fine after that. I have had the truck for about 3 weeks and only noticed after I filled the tank the last time. I will fill up again in a day or so at another station (maybe bad gas). It does not idle roughly after being started when warm. Just wondered if anybody else experienced this or is this just the nature of the vehicle. Thanks

Shawn

mopar67 · June 2001

Well myself and ahahser have the 4.7 and therefore there might not be a connection here but both of us had to have our PCM updated with revised software to cure the rough idle/stall on startup. Again, I'm probably reaching here as your v-6 contains components which are not on the 4.7 engine thus the resolution to your problem might be something else entirely.
A good way to process of elimination is like you said, try different gas from a different station.
You would be surprised at how little water or other contaminants would affect start/idle quality.
And while we're on the subject of gas my advice is to stay away from the Happy Jack Cut Rate Gas places which are so common these days. I'm not suggesting you are going to those outfits but if you are, change your ways!

I never could understand in all my years how someone would plunk down big bucks for a new vehicle then drive to the cheapest place they find for gas. I remember the Thorntons station in front of my old Kmart store happily selling gas for 10-20 cents cheaper than anyplace else. We had a good customer who, each winter, would come in and buy Christy's dry gas by the case! And when we were out of that, he'd buy HEET by the case as well. And during the summer, he'd load up on STP gas treatment. One day I casualy asked where he was buying his gas.
His enthusiastic reply "Hell, I go to Thorntons! Its just as good as all the others, its all the same anyway, and I ain't gonna pay for that high priced Shell stuff. Been goin' to Thorntons for 20 years now and never had a problem!"
Needless to say, we exceeded our sales goals in gas additives week after week, month after month due to this guy. WOnder if he ever did any math?
SOmething to consider...............

urban3 · June 2001

ethuresson - Thanks for the word on NVH.

mopar67, ahasher - What is your idle at now that it has been corrected? I have the 4.7 auto also and it seems to be running fine. It idles at about 550-600 once it has been running for a minute or two. Just curious.

mopar67 · June 2001

since the update approximately 600 in drive with engine at full operating temp. Runs about 700 or so with AC on.
No more stalls...thank god!

ahasher · June 2001

is approx. the same as mopar67.. and was at or just below 500 before the fix (AC off).. I can come to a stop after highway speed with no fear of stalling.. :-)

samse5 · June 2001

I have the 2001 Dakota QC 4.7 liter 4WD. About 4 months after I bought it I noticed a high pitch squeeling soung coming from the engine. It sounded like either a belt or a bad bearing(idler,alternator,water pump, or ac unit) the mechanic at Dodge who fixed it stated that it was the water pump bearing and replaced the water pump and belt. The noise was gone when I picked it up. That was 3 months ago. Now it is back again! Is anyone else experiencing this? I cannot see replacing water pumps 3 times every year. I wonder if Dodge is getting bum bearings from their outsource supplier. That is why I'm asking if any of you have experienced anything similar and if there is a large scale problem out there or if this is just a case of some very bad luck on my part or if there is a different problem such as an idler spring with too much tension. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks

bpeebles · June 2001

(samse5) I have been following the 4.7L V8 Hemi since it was offered in the JeepGrandCherokee in 1999. I have never heard anyone even mention their waterpump or serpentine belt as being a problem in any context. This is from reading gigabytes of data over several years.

That said, do you hear this 'squeeling' all the time or only under certain conditions? (accelleration, startup, AC on/off, hot, cold....etc)

henne · June 2001

in the 2001 owners manual it states that the towing package includes a 7-4 adaptor, pigtail for your brake controller and 3 relays in your glove box. none of this was in my box and the dealer took a month to order it all and there are only directions on the pigtail and not the relays.

anybody know where the relays go? i paid someone to put my controller on my 2000 quad so im not sure if this one is different or not. i got the 7-4, and the pigtail in the glove box on my 2000 but no relays. are the relays new for 2001?

anybody have any answers?

thanks,

robert

urban3 · June 2001

I had the adapter and pig tail in the glove box of my 01. I believe I read somewhere here that the relays were already installed with the factory tow package. I will double check mine.

bmwjoe · June 2001

Hi,

I have a 1998 Club Cab with 16k miles. Last week the truck died on the side of the road. To make a long story short I ran out of gas. The gas gage still said I had more than 1/4 tank. The trip computer said I had 40+ more miles to go, the low fuel warning was not on and the chime had not sounded. All cockpit indications said I had plenty of fuel!

When I filled the truck up the gage went over full to 5/4 or so.

Anywho... Has anyone had this problem? What is the fix? I will dig into the BOB (mine is green) to see how the system works. I hope it is a bad ground or something easy.

Drive Safe,

Joe

ahasher · June 2001

I will double check at lunch today, since I'm at work.. but I do believe those relays go in the engine compartment fuse box. When my relay/fusenbox went up in smoke a couple of weeks ago, I had the cover off and noticed several open relay slots labeled something like brake controller or towing (I'll double check shortly) . Since I do not have the tow package (I added the parts myself) my fusebox had no relays.

henne · June 2001

thanks. the relays the dealer gave are much larger than the ones in the fuse box under the hood, they wouldnt even fit in the box they are so big. i read all the notes on the fuse box and didnt see anything for the brake controller or towing relays.

thanks for your help.

robert

ahasher · June 2001

and altho I enjoyed the visit outside to pop the QC hood.. I guess I wasn't much help. The 2 relays I saw were #12-a 40 AMP trailer relay and #27-just labeled relay. let us know what you finally end up with, I am curious now.. even tho I have installed my own mopar hitch and 4-way factory wiring, but no brake controller.

urban3 · July 2001

(1) According to my '01 owner's manual, the tow package includes "three relays that must be installed in the power distribution center". Supposedly in the glove box with the adapter etc; mine didn't have those. And... "two fuses and a relay that are located on the driver's side of the engine compartment on a harness near the PDC". Go figure on that, I looked but couldn't find anything. All on page 171. There does appear to be 2 tow related fuses in the PDC.

I'm going to ask the dealer about this, but any more specifics on exactly what the tow package needs or included would be appreciated.

(2) Twice in the 1st 1000 miles the factory security alarm has been tripped, apparently without cause. And it failed to exit alarm mode according to the owner's manual procedure. Any ideas why it would have gone off by itself and why it wouldn't disarm? I still have to look at the service manual.

Thanks.

urban3 · July 2001

OK, some minor research strongly suggests my inadvertent security alarm was really me "inadvertently" hitting the 'PANIC' button on the key fob. As I read it, the "PANIC" alarm is not disarmed using the normal disarm procedure. The Panic button must be pressed twice or the vehicle must be started AND moving > 15 MPH.

Forget the details, but let's just say that both times the alarm "went off on its own", the key fob was in my pocket with a bunch of other stuff and while loading stuff into the vehicle.

Possible moral of the story: Keep these electronic thing-a-m'fobs by themselves. Or, press the Panic button a couple of time if your alarm won't shut off.

ahasher · July 2001

(bpeebles, mopar67)..I was wondering about the recommended 5-30 oil for the 4.7. Since I have used Mobile 1 5-30 synthetic since my first oil change, Is switching over to 10-30 for the hot summer an option to compensate for hot weather driving? i did not do anything last summer, because i knew the engine was still breaking in and "learning". I know the general idea behind viscosity and weight in oils but with the 4.7 and it's well discussed tight tolerances, I would rather ask here before I consider making any changes. So what would you recommend to this shadetree mechanic ;-) ?

mopar67 · July 2001

my opinion, and only my opinion, would be to stay with 5w30 unless the temp stayed consistenly over 100 degrees and you did lots of towing. I recall somewhere bpeebles stated that the 4.7 has much closer manufacturing tolerances and a freer flowing oil provides better/faster protection at startup.
bpeebles?

bpeebles · July 2001

The Preferred oil is 5w30. The 10w30 is acceptable as long as ambient temperatures do not go below 0deg F.

Remember that only the "30" in that designation is for engine operating temperature. (The "5" reflects the low temperature characteristics of the lubricant)

Many automobile manufacturers have been calling for 5w30 for several years. (GM, VW, DC...etc)
Back in the late 70s, the 10w30 was commonly recommended. (This means the 1960's-designed engines that make up DCs other truck engines.... 2.5L, 3.9L and 5.9L)

Either grade is fine for the summer as mopar67 suggests. For towing and >100F, the 10w30 may be more suitable.

If you stick with MOBIL1, your engine will not know the difference anyway. ;-)

ahasher · July 2001

since my driving conditions are not extreme. With this "new" 4.7, it's tolerances and virtually computer controlled everything, I prefer to ask when in doubt.
btw.. still considering my next enhancement/accessory to make up for that aborted camping trip with the QC. :-)

steve234 · July 2001

The fuses for the tow package are apparently installed by the factory. Not long ago, I installed a controller on my dak and found that they were already in place. The dealer did not install them. My pigtail and adapter were in the glovebox.

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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