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Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

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  • astaasta Member Posts: 122
    Anybody know of any covers for the top rail of the tailgate? Didn't see on in the Mopar catalog. Wondering if any 3rd party makes it and if so cost, order etc. Prefer black composite/plastic. carbon whatever...

    Dave.
  • 96g1196g11 Member Posts: 88
    asta, try a company called Bakliner. They make just what you are looking for. I also think Bushwacker and Explorer Pro-Comp have their versions out by now. The Bakliner product was and is exactly what I needed/wanted. When I ordered directly from the company because no destributor was avail in my area, I was not pleased with the results. Don't get me wrong, the product is perfect! The company leaves much to be desired in their handling of my order. Maybee that is why they prefer you purchase through a destributor.
    The bedrail and tailgate protectors from Bakliner are much like what a Ford has except the texture is not smooth. When I ordered, first they mixed up and did not ship. after waiting a week, I called again and "oops" well they first offered to pay shipping (via e-mail from them) then when I asked on the phone I got the run around. They finally shipped and payed the shipping but I received rails for a standard bed. Rather than ship back I just cut to fit myself. Very frustrating but the end result is some very cool rail protectors.
    www.Bakliner.com Just try to get them from somewhere else.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    The hairdryer method is for transfers. I haven't tried it, but I am guessing that the plastic badges are stuck on. This will therefore require a more careful lifting method, combined with some kind of solvent that will remove the glue. I am sure someone will be able to relay a working method for you.

    As far as the LS11 is concerned, it is fairly easy to remove - but heavy. I have a club cab and the removal process consists of undoing 4 clamps and lifting it off. Definitely a 2 person job to carry it. Yours would obviously be smaller and lighter, but I would still reckon on two people to safely lift it off without risk of damage - but certainly not a difficult process.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Andy, on my Quad Cab with a shorter bed than you have, my dealer installed the LSII using six (6) clamps. He told me that he uses six (6) as a minumum due to normal flexing of a bed. My previous LSII (95 Club cab) was installed using (6) 3/8" cap screws with locking acorn nuts. The clamps that are now installed are driven with a socket or box wrench and are very strong. This type of clamp was not available when my previous LSII was purchased (or, the dealer didn't know about them). Just an observation on my part, I certainly do not want to appear critical.

    Bookitty
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    Think twice about removing your V8 badge on the front fender. It has two plastic protrusions that go through the body which would need to be filled. Pop the hood and look at the back side of the panel and you'll see what I mean.

    BTW, has anyone found a good tailgate lock? I don't want my soon-to-arrive extender to get stolen...
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Geez I seem to be getting a lot wrong lately (!!)

    Pretty sure mine only has 4 - I'll check.
  • bobsyveebobsyvee Member Posts: 63
    The ARE lid I have has been no problem so far. It is still essentially waterproof, other than when I have the hose shooting water up from the bottom. I looked at several hard lids, and decided the LSII was the best for what I wanted. The color match is perfect. (Amber Fire) Even the handle is painted. It has the same detail as the hood, as opposed to being just a flat cover. The dealer mounted it with four clamps, after first putting down 1.5" wide rubber strips along the sides, and at the front of the bed. Removing it would seem to be pretty easy, with help aas it weighs 95 lbs. I would be sure to mark the position somehow, to make re-install a bit quicker. I'm thinking of rigging some sort of rope and pulley in the garage to pop it off and on.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    poplock makes one that fits over the handle on the gate had one on my nissan plan on one for my dakota q/c....ck jcwhitney catalog
  • astaasta Member Posts: 122
    Thanks for the great tips! I went to the Bakliner website and found out they are located about 10 minutes from my house! They are in North Hollywood, CA, just a quick trip over the canyon for me. Too bad I didn't know that when you were having your nightmares - coulda just picked it up for you and shipped directly. I also visited the Bushwacker and Explorer Pro-Comp sites. Bushwacker has a very nice site and the product looks great. However, they don't list retail prices or whether they make it for a 2001 Quad. I could not find bed/p/u related items on the Explorer site. I emailed Bakliner for more info and find out if I can just drive over and buy the caps. Sent a similar email to Bushwacker as their product and lifetime warranty seemed a bit more together than Bakliner. Are either of these products, or any bedrail cap for that matter, compatible with the Roll - n -Lock cover? Thanks again.

    Dave.
  • yank2yank2 Member Posts: 49
    It looks like Andy and I got shorted. My ARE has only 4. Shipping must be less to Penn.
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    I have been looking for a good bike rack setup for my 2001 quad and noticed that the www.4adodge.com website has some new in the bed bike racks. Has anyone tried these out or have any comments on them.
  • mrjakemrjake Member Posts: 27
    Just wondering if anyone has installed an aftermarket intake system. Checked out some of the links earlier in the post and liked the looks of them (the phase II from intenseperformance) Anyway, hoping to get some first hand knowledge. Also, how long is this break-in period on my 4.7? I only have 500 miles so far, but have been between 10 - 11 mpg the whole time. (70%town / 30%freeway with a light foot)
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Definitely 4. Bloody typical - Canada gets ripped off again!!
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Andy, I checked just a moment ago, and there are six (6) clamps. Perhaps it has something to do with the value of Canadian currency, or the spelling of color (colour), honor (honour), etc. Just kidding of course, but I asked the dealer again why they use 6 clamps, and he told me that by using 6 clamps the customer seldom will have to check and re-tighten them. Referred again to the normal flexing of the bed.

    Bookitty

    PS If you run colour and honour through the posting spellcheck, they will show as "misspelled"
    words; So there!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (mrjake)
    My 4.7L V8 Hemi did not start to idle smoothly until after 10K miles. The MPG also improved steadily up to around that point. In my mind, this is what I think of as "break in"... when the engine ceases to change its operating characteristics.

    Keep in mind that this engine has VERY tight tolerances. It will take some time for the moving metal parts to become "accustomed" to each other.
  • csampsoncsampson Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the responses. After closer inspection I see that the "V8" badges are also secured via two posts that poke through the fenders as mentioned. I have a feeling that the same may be true for the "QUAD CAB" badges given their size.

    I would also like to remove the airbag warning labels from my visors. I pulled off the stickers only to find another label underneath. These labels looked like they were "ironed on" and part of one of them was removed when I pulled the first sticker off. Has anyone removed these labels? I am thinking of heating them up with an iron and pulling them off with duct tape.
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    You might try the WD-40 method of 'melting' the glue on your exterior decals; spray some behind the decals as you pull them off, working them back and forth to get the WD-40 'into' the glue. It's what I use for the various stuff I take to shows. Leaves no mess or scratches. Petro-based stuff.
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    ONLY! Sorry, didn't notice your other problem with the visor thingies... For that there's some stuff I use that's called Goop Off or something similar that won't hurt the fabric. Why not just call a local detailer or better yet, an auto fabric shop?
  • mulderigmulderig Member Posts: 31
    I wrote a earlier post about removing all the exterior decals with a hair dryer and a plastic putty knife. My quad is a Med. Bronze 2001 that is only 2 months old. The 2001 Quads do not have the V8 badges on the fenders. I did remove the Quad Cab, Dakota SLT, Dodge, and 4X4 from the truck. I left the Rams Head on the Hood. Then I turned around and put Med. Bronze Darango body side moldings on it. I saw a red Quad Sport with the black side moldings and it sure did change the look and not for the better.
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Member Posts: 337
    Foor what it's worth... Above and beyond a marked improvement in low-end throttle response, the K&N filter/Borla cat-back combo is finally beginning to yield the fuel economy gains I'd hoped for.

    Before the exhaust install, mileage averaged 13.4 (city/hwy) over three fill-ups. Filled it up immediately after the install... No change in mileage over 190 miles.

    Drove another 240 miles, filled up, and averaged 14.5 under roughly the same driving conditions... Nothing conclusive yet, but if the improvement is consistent, I'm looking for pay-back on the exhaust at about 45K miles at today's fuel prices.

    It appears that what the exhaust manufacturer indicated regarding the computer requiring 600-800 miles to "adjust itself" to the improved flow may be true.
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Member Posts: 337
    Two products will accomplish the visor clean-up...

    "Goo-Gone" or "Goof-Off" will both do the trick... I believe that the Goo-Gone is heavily citrus-based, so it should cause no damage to the fabric.
  • bobsyveebobsyvee Member Posts: 63
    Don't blame A.R.E. for a lesser number of clamps. A.R.E. does not supply them. It's up to the installing dealer to provide them. I asked my dealer why there's only four. He said that they use 4 on a six foot bed, (QC's is 5'3"), and six on an eight foot bed. With the four clamps I have no leaks.

    JimH
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Jim, the reason that my dealer gave for using six (6) clamps, was so that the tendency to loosen due to normal flexing of the bed was lessened. He said that it is worth the cost of the extra two (2) clamps to avoid retightening. No big deal.

    Bookitty
  • xena1axena1a Member Posts: 286
    Anyone know of an after-market source for replacement gas tanks? I sure would like an additional 5 or 8 gallons of fuel capacity on my '00 4X4 RC. Thanks...
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    If you want a 33-gallon tank, check out

    http://www.aerotanks.com/dodge.htm

    They're in SoCal and won't ship the tanks, but if you're close it sounds like a really nice setup.
  • xena1axena1a Member Posts: 286
    Thanks for the info on the replacement gas tanks.
    I'll check into it...
  • dakotacrdakotacr Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I'm looking to install a CD changer on my 99 Dakota Club cab, however, looking at the sizes of the changers and the space available in my truck (center console, under front seats, in the compartments under the back seat) seems like a changer does not fit anywhere.
    Any ideas?
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    Mopar Accessories offers a reasonably priced 6 disc changer and a kit to install it in the console. (bucket seats only) If you have the factory radio that includes the cd changer controls you're set. Below is a link to a dealership that I found that seems to have the best prices on Mopar Acc. You may also use their prices to get your local parts guy to give you lower prices. FYI-Mopar has their changers made by Alpine, so it's pretty good quality.
    http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyckoff-chrysler-parts/6discdchanan.html
  • ron35ron35 Member Posts: 134
    dakotacr - I tried my Mopar CD changer in several places including the center console but decided on mounting it in the vertical position under the back seat behind the driver's seat in the club cab. It has been back there for 10 months and has worked out great.

    Ron,
    Springfield, VA
  • xplquadcabxplquadcab Member Posts: 9
    Looking for advice on two subjects:
    1st is the Tonneau covers, we are leaning towards the fold a cover style over the fiberglass one piece. Which do you all have and are you happy with the style you chose? Which brand did you get and where? I've visited the thread on this subject already. Looking for current advice.
    Second is my hubby wants to put a dual exhaust system on the quad cab (we have a 2001 4X4 4.7). Any advice or suggestions?
    Thanks everyone.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (xplquadcab) If you are referring to a TRUE dual exhaust from the exhaust manifolds back... sorry
    the Dak has triple catalysts which are an intrinsic part of the engine-management system. Federal law prohibits such modifications.

    I you are asking about a "fake" dual exhaust that simply has two outlets,(aka...Cat back) there are some available.
    However
    It has been discovered that the 4.7L V8 hemi can loose low end torque if "too much" exhaust is allowed out. This engine does not have the "cubes" to drive the negative ram effect that such an exhaust system is tuned for.

    If you are looking for improved PERFORMANCE, It has been found that a quality SINGLE exhaust of the proper diameter to improve the scavenging of the engine is a better choice.
  • xplquadcabxplquadcab Member Posts: 9
    bpeebles, thank you for your response on my dual exhaust idea. You mentioned a quality single exhaust system of proper diameter. Can you elaborate on this please. Brand, size, and benefits (better MPG, exhaust sound, and performance)? Thanks. By the way, re: toneau cover - we ordered the pace edwards roll out.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    To really get the performance from any engine, the engine has to be able to intake and exhaust the gas more efficiently. As you may be aware, the 4.7L V8 hemi is pretty new and its potential is just barely being discovered. Many cat-back exhaust systems for the 4.7 are not even in the catalogues yet. (Yet may be available if you call)

    Here are some links to get you started...

    INTAKE:
    http://www.intenseperformance.com/
    http://www.quickd.com/

    EXHAUST:
    http://www.jardineproducts.com/automotive/index.htm
    http://www.edelbrock.com/home.html
    http://www.gibsonperformance.com/
    http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/index.asp

    There was a test of the 4.7L with a K&N intake/exhaust in a recent "Truckin" magazine.

    There are a number of people over in the DML (Dakota Mailing List) who live-n-breathe performance. Its tedious reading but your answers are in there!
  • xplquadcabxplquadcab Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for all the web links. Guess I've got my homework cut out for me.
  • quadwild1quadwild1 Member Posts: 1
    i removed my stickers with my finger nails and some citrus type gum remover... no problem with the black paint, and the results look great!

    for towcrazy2... I think that you and I might be the only 5.9 guys around! i also have full time 4wd. thanks for your exhaust / mileage updates... i'm thinking of doing something similar. so far i've just installed smittybuilt ss nerf bars. plz keep the updates coming!
  • sorcerersorcerer Member Posts: 28
    I just had a Rhinoliner sprayed into the bed of my new QC. It looks awesome! I've had compliments from everyone I've shown it to.

    Ordered Westin Step bars from Atlanta Auto, & they tell me that they shipped them the same day!
    (mon)
    I hope to get them put on as soon as they arrive, but I can't remember how many beer's a job like this is rated at...
    Seriously, how easy are they to install?
    (I'm a computer geek, not a mechanic)

    Next upgrade on the list is a roll top cover.
  • fat_fendersfat_fenders Member Posts: 96
    I also ordered a set of Westin Bars from Atlanta Auto which is a great vendor with superior customer service. My bars arrived via FedX within two days!

    I would rate this a no-beer job, only because they can be installed so quickly, you won't have time to enjoy a beer.,....until you're done. :-)

    Seriously, it took me maybe 1/2 hour and that included getting tools out and putting them away. If you have air tools, an impact speeds removal of the body mount bolts. With a normal ratchet wrench, install could take 45 minutes due to some "Lock-Tite" type goo that was applied to the bolts during factory assembly.

    The bars are attached to the cab's front and rear body mount bolts with some nifty supplied HD brackets. This provides a very sturdy step bar that sure helps when washing the roof!

    I left the protective wrap on my bars until installed, just to protect the surface. I only peeled it back when the end of the bar bolts to the brackets.

    Let us know how it goes...

    fat_fenders

    PS. One of my bars was damaged upon arrival and Atlanta Auto arranged replacement through Westin with no questions asked. The provide excellent email communication, should a problem occur. I don't have any personal interest in AA other than being a satisfied customer.
  • sorcerersorcerer Member Posts: 28
    Well, the bars arived today.
    No time to install them today :(

    I have no access to air tools, and I only own a few regular tools that are larger than what I need to work on computers..

    I guess I'm gonna have to go up & open the box to make sure that they are not damaged in any way.

    These ought to look real sharp once I get them on.
    Black Bars on a bright White QC!

    As soon as I get my Digital camera back from a friend (borrowed it for a wedding) I'll get some pictures taken, & post 'em on one of my web pages.

    Thanks again for all the advice
  • steurysteury Member Posts: 1
    I'm a new QC owner and consequently new to this board. I'm looking for a cover for the bed. I like the versatility of the folding and roll top covers, but I wonder how weather-tight they are. I'd like to hear from owners of either type. Do they keep the bed dry? Any other comments?
  • wampuswampus Member Posts: 11
    I was wondering if anyone has found a sold running board the color of the truck to go between the fender flares for the QC. I have only seen some in the stores from Dee Zee but they weren't long enough to go between fender flares. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • dragonhawkdragonhawk Member Posts: 26
    You might want to check out www.starboards.com which has pictures of QCs with running boards. They are $499.99 painted.
  • stnickstnick Member Posts: 177
    Steury, I have the Pace Edwards roll top cover and so far like it pretty well. While not 100 percent leak proof, only small leaks at tailgate, I have no fear putting anything back there. I also have the P.E. bed rug, so its a little harder to see leaks. But it seems to be pretty good.
    Stnick
  • xena1axena1a Member Posts: 286
    I have had a Roll-n-Lock on my '00 RC Dakota for about a month now and have been very happy with it. Although I live in Tucson, it has been very rainy down here for the last 5 weeks. I would agree with stnick (#364) that they are not 100 water tight. But they do a surprisingly good job of keeping the water out of the bed. I have a couple of minor drips up near the front of the bed but I would not hesitate to keep things back there during wet weather. I like the versatility of the roll-type covers because you can still easily carry taller loads when necessary. However, the Roll-n-Lock product is pricey. It goes for around $800...
  • xena1axena1a Member Posts: 286
    "not 100" in previous post should read "not 100%"
    My bad...
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Member Posts: 215
    Steury, I have the Mopar folding cover. I'm very happy with it. It is not completely watertight, but it basically keeps the bed dry. One person can remove it quickly (although you do need a wrench).

    The only reason I passed on the Pace Edwards or the Roll-n-Lock was because of the space the box takes up next to the cab.

    The Mopar cover was too expensive. As I think Towcrazy can tell you, it's exactly the same as the Fold-a-Cover (Fold-a-Cover apparently makes the cover for Mopar), but the Fold-a-Cover is considerably cheaper. I was lazy and went with the Mopar version since it was easier to arrange to have it installed.

    Someone posted a while back about another folding cover. It was two pieces and the material on the web site said it removed without tools. If I hadn't already bought mine, I would have seriously considered this one. Just do a search for "cover" or something like that in his topic.

    Overall, however, I really like the Mopar cover.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I was browsing the GIBSON web site and came across
    this offer. They need a Dakota to use as a
    prototype. If I was in California, I would
    DEFINITLY take advantage of this offer.

    Check it out;

    http://www.gibsonperformance.com/free.html
  • snowedinsnowedin Member Posts: 58
    Here's the web site for the other folding cover mentioned by lmeyer1 in post #367:

    http://www.advancecover.com/2fold.htm
  • xkarterxkarter Member Posts: 2
    Are there any aftermarket replacement lights that fit directly into the OEM fog light location. Or does anyone sell replacement bulbs that are available in a super white
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (xkarter) Sure! For bulbs check out this URL.

    http://www.autobulbdepot.com/

    For aftermarket fog lights, just do a search on www.dogpile.com You are bound to find several.

    NOTE:If you DO NOT have foglights on your Dak. It is highly recommended that you spring for the factory 'kit' that includes wiring and dash switch. Anything else may look kludgey.
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    Also look at: [www.boards4less] as they have some pretty nice ones for the Quad: boards are $306 primed, $386 black poly-urethaned and $406 color-matched to your paint code / The neat little nerfs are $319, $379 and $419 - same paint specs.

    I'm assuming you know that you don't want to have boards from flare to flare unless the bed (short) portion on each side is SEPARATE from the cab (long) part. Never have the cab and bed pieces 'connected.' Bed needs to 'float' separately from the cab and all that, what.

    Oh, and the prices above are delivered, and if you tell them Jack (me) sent you, they might even double the price for you!
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