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Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications
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Comments
Jim
You may not have to worry about this possibility with the QC's higher clearances but you may run into deep mud, etc off-roading. Rather lose a $13/pair than a $50/pair.
thanks
robert
Love my quad so far!!... Ger
Has anybody had experience with this product?
The reason I chose this over the others is that it has the highest tensile rating, and highest shore rating. Perma-tech was actually one of the lower ratings. By tensile rating and shore ratings I mean how difficult it is to tear the stuff.
I highly considered Line-x and Rhino as well, and though both seem to be great products, it was the local installers that really didn't sell me. The Rhino dealer wanted to drill new drain holes in the bed, which I really didn't want to go with.
For the Perma-tech, just what I found on my checking them out is the sample sent was pretty weak. Had great grip. Had great color choices, however when you added color the price increased by $100+ depending on the color. Adding the glow-in-the-dark added almost $1000 believe it or not.
As for experience with the Speedliner as of yet. It goes on cold, so the first 24 hours you really had to protect the bed (i.e. no water, rain, nothing in the back, and tailgate down) untile the stuff cures. After the first 24 hours the stuff really hardens up. I have a Forest Green quad, and the liner is in their emerald green color, and it couldn't match any better.
Regardless which brand you choose, just make sure you check out the installer first and arm yourself with any questions beforehand so you know exactly what will be done to your truck.
I hope this helps and good luck.
Jeff
How did all of your choices compare in price?
I had never heard of speedliner here in cleveland, but I will have to check around.
Thanks for the great info!
Blue
Something else I didn't mention on the speedliner was that none of the installers really wanted to do the speedliner over the rail which I wanted. After their explenation it made sense. They actually would do it but would not warranty that. What they explained to me was when this stuff is soft which it is, and later on people have a tendency to pick and pull at it, which eventually will take its toll on how your truck looks. The suggestion was for the same price as having another brand liner sprayed over the rail, you could do this liner and buy some real nice bed rail caps for the same money. This is what I am trying to find the best deal on now.
Another suggestion to you is to get as many samples of different brands as possible. When you get the samples compare the texture, as well as the durability of each. Take a knife to them to see how easily they cut and hide the cuts. This should make your decision much easier. I'd be happy to offer my opinion on any of the samples I received if you are in a crunch to get a liner in, as some took many weeks before I recieved them. In all I think I received around 6 brands.
The web site for speedliner is www.speedliner.com
IMHO, the setup looks factory, is sturdy and was made for the QC in the first place, making the setup worth the few extra $$ to order from MOPAR.
I was disapppointed that the bedrug that they sent did not fit.
Seems that the folks who ordered for the quad cab were sent short bed bedrugs got short bed bedrugs.
They picked up the wrong one, and still waiting on the correct one to arrive. Probably arrive on monday.
Dodgetruckin,
I ordered an ARE ch cap for the truck from suburban caps in Old Bridge NJ.
2 weeks for delivery.
Got $20 off from the ARE website.
Good luck to all.
Bob
About 2 weeks for delivery.
Installed the oil valve,,NO PROBLEM..without the Adapter.
Looking from the front of the truck it appears to have over 1(min) to >2 inches
clearance from my skid plate.
Guess with some of the postings there is some difference,,whether the oilpan, or
skid plate or something??? is different..but mine has plenty of clearance and I do not
have any recessed oil plug location on the oil pan.
It is a slight pain,,,to drop both skid plates to change the oil.
Unless by design,,,, You are supposed to let the engine oil run out onto the skid plate!
Bobs5, how much $$ for the cap.? Gonna have to check it out..Still haven't
made a decision..what to do with the bed..leaning towards under the rail liner/some type of cover. Later..Ger
With tax came out to $1065 or so.
Bob
works great - except i currently have my truck in the shop for a transmission oil leak - at 70k miles! any ideas anybody? it leaks onto the outside bottom of the bellhousing....
Thanks, Rick
well, first of all, its a special order item - took 1 month to get....so, be prepared to wait....for the v6 engine (AX-15 transmission) the Hurst part number is 391-5050....
after that - its a piece of cake. after you remove the inside plastic shifter bezel and the rubber boot (be careful removing - the front screws are under the cupholder, and along the back edge there were two of those wonderful steel spring clips that hold the plastic bezel), on my truck there was another rubber boot and a piece of sheet steel with screws around the perimeter - after you remove that, you can see the shifter and transmission....the shifter is held on by 4 bolts on top - and you remove the 4 bolts, and poof - the old shifter should lift right off - it has some sort of paper-steel-paper gasket (which was leaking on my truck anyway)...
next, the old shifter has a sort of plastic cap on the ball end (which fits into the transmission) - i got a new one from the Dodge dealer - cost 8 bucks....this plastic cap snaps on the ball end of the shifter (put some oil on it and push hard) and after putting some rtv on both sides of the steel gasket (did not install the paper gaskets), i installed the steel gasket on the transmission, placed the new shifter on top, and bolted it down (Hurst gives torque setting for the bolts) - make sure the plastic cap fits where its supposed to, otherwise you will not be able to shift....
next, the Hurst shifter comes with its own rubber boot which goes over the shift mechanism and part of the chrome stick....its installed with zip ties...after that, reinstall the factory rubber boot and plate, and then finally the finish rubber boot and plastic bezel...and done! so - in counting - there are 3 rubber boots on the new shifter - the Hurst rubber boot, the rubber boot and sheet steel that screw onto the body of the truck, and the plastic bezel and "exterior" rubber boot that you see when you are driving the truck....no leather boot anywhere (but that would be a nice addition)....
my biggest problem with the OE shifter was the long shifts - coupled with my v6 and my 3.21 axle ratio - it makes for some very slow starts. the Hurst shifter reduces the shifter throw by about half, so shifting is somewhat quicker....i was also hoping that the transmission notchiness would go away, but it didnt....
finally, the Hurst shifter comes with a very cheap black plastic shift knob - i splurged and got a 33 dollar white plastic knob with engraved shift pattern....it looks cool if anything else.
i hope this helps - i would recommend getting one for anybody who has a clutch foot faster than a shifting hand (i used to grind gears on occasion - havent done it yet with the new shifter)....
Pete
look for the correct part number!
The traditional Hurst Competition/Plus Shifter is now available for Dodge Dakota V8 pick-up
trucks equipped with the New Venture 3500 series 5-speed transmission and is designed to
provide a more positive and secure feel when shifting. This shifter incorporates a high
ratio pivot mechanism for approximately 30% reduced knob travel resulting in shorter,
quicker shifts. Patented adjustable bias spring loads allow stick tension to be tailored for
driver’s preference, and positive gear stops prevent overshifting and internal transmission
damage. Includes chrome plated bolt-on stick with black knob and is easily installed without
any vehicle modifications.
Application Part Number
Fits 1994-2000 Dodge Dakota V8 with NV3500 transmission part number is 391 0155
First of all, thanks for the great description of your install.
I have two questions;
1) I have a 2001 QC with the bucket seats and the center counsel. I looks from photos that the Hurst shift knob slants closer to the seat than the factory stick. Do you think it will run into the counsel and/or make it difficult to grab as a result when in 2nd or 4th gear?
2.) Does the Hurst knob rest at a different height? In other words, does one have to reach down further to reach the shift knob?
Thank you so much.
Ayrow
http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html
They shipped the wrong model last time. Sent a short bed model, but I need a quad cab model, which is shorter than the short bed model.
Also recieved a call from, http://www.subcaps.com/ , that the ARE model CH cap has arrived. I will have that installed this weekend. Just placed the order last Thursday and it is here already. Less than a week from order to delivery. They said it would be 2 weeks at time of order.
Bob
in addition, i think that the Hurst shifter stick is actually a little longer than the original - as far as the console, i dont think it would be a problem - i have the 40-/20/40 seats, and the knob is placed just above the level of the top of "20" seat.... i always have the "20" seat in the down position, and while the knob gets close, i never really have a problem shifting....
hope this helps....
Pete
C. Moore
While my wife shops... I peruse the latest truck and Mopar magizines for Dakota information. Today I found a magazine that has a complete STEP-BY STEP photo gallery about how to install the new HURST shifter into your Dakota. There is even some commentary on the "feel" of the unit.
Look for "High Performance Mopar" magazine at your local bookstore or grocerystore. Or click the following URL for an online version.
http://www.highperformancemopar.com/archives/tech/tech03_hursts.shtml
Bob
I want one!!!!
Ayrow
http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html
1. Does installing the shifter void any warranties on the truck?
2. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT:I have a 2001 with the center console, and with the current shifter when I place a 44 oz beverage cup in the cup holder behind the shifter, the shifter will hit the cup in 2nd gear and I have to crush it to engage 2nd properly. Does the Hurst shifter still hit the cup???
If the above answers are both 'NO', I'm going for it.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=37028&BQ=jcw2
I remember a few years ago in college someone raving about it in their K-5 Blazer ( SB 400). I was just curious if anybody has used one. They spout off about it was proven on some EPA fuel efficiency test, but who really knows.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Blue
What about a lock (free or not)? I can't seem to find anything at local retail auto parts stores or even online. I'm not looking in the right places. Your help please.
as far as the stick hitting those tall cups, i can tell you this - ive got a 97 dakota (first year of the new style), and i always had that problem with hitting cups - with the new shifter, i have not tried the 44oz cup (maybe at lunch today) but the stick doesnt come anywhere near the medium sized cups that i normally get.....it might hit a 44oz cup in reverse though....
for comparison, the new stick comes straight up out of the shifting unit a little, and then bends towards the seats....the old stick was a straight shot coming out of the shifting unit....
priced right and works well. Do know that you will have to turn your spare over placing the finished side up OR the locks J-Bar will be to short. I have no problem with the spare finished side up as it protect the rim. Anyway, have the lock and am very pleased with it. OH, the lock comes with a plastic cap that keeps the crap out of the key hole. Bill in NY
http://www.auffarth.com/dodge.html
One can hose off most of the frame easy enough but would have to UNLOCK, LOWER and hose off the finished side of the spare several times each winter.
I do not know about the rest of you but climbing under my truck while laying in slush in the winter to unlock the spare tire is not my idea of a good time.
Just last weekend I found some more salt-laden mud inside my rear bumper while I was washing my truck.... that stuff gets EVERYWHERE.
Good thing that lock comes with a plastic cap!
Any and all info would be greatly appreciated. BTW- I love this forum, one of the best out there!
Thanks, Tom.
Bookitty
There's diagram for Dakota and it does not hook over the hoist shaft per the normal installation. It goes through openings in the underside framing around the winch.
Rained like heck last night, not a drop of water in the bed of the truck. The ARE CH cap kept it dry.
The correct bedrug arrived finally.
Still have to install it.
Been too busy getting my resume up to date and filing for unemployment. Got layed off on monday after 13+ years with the company. Bummer.
Bob
Best of luck to you.
scottie
IF you are concerned your pricey spare and rim might get stolen the SpareTireLock is well worth the $. Bill in NY
p.s. I do have the larger size rim and tire that
is part of the tire and handling package.
I wanted to get my spare facing the way the factory had it because flipped it tends to become loose and rattle every couple of weeks. H
I've made a few CD-R's and they play fine..as everyone knows..
I'll keep looking for info in the meantime..before I burn a RW and try myself..
Thanks,
Ger.