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Car_man
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It is difficult to say what GM's and Acura's incentives incentives will be like when their current programs expire after Labor Day. If I was in the market to lease either of these vehicles and didn't need to wait to finish out an existing lease, I personally would pull the trigger now.
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If you were to lease a 2005 Infiniti G35 sedan 2WD through Infiniti Financial Services right now for 36 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00140 and 59%, respectively. Again, this car's 10,000 miles per year residual value would be 1% higher.
There are rumors going around that BMW's lease program on the 2006 3-Series will improve in September, but I do not know for certain that this will happen. It is difficult to say if Infiniti's lease program on the G35 will get any better next month.
I believe that Infiniti Financial Services automatically includes gap insurance with its leases, but it would be best if you checked with them directly or your dealer to make certain that this is the case.
Yes the $2,500 down payment that you have seen in BMW's advertised lease is a capitalized cost reduction. Consumers can and should always lease vehicles without making any sort of cap cost reduction. Of course, leasing the advertised car without a down payment would make its monthly payment increase.
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I'm 2 years into a 39 month lease of a 2003 Toyota Solara.
I'm considering ending lease early and getting into purchase or lease of 2005 or 2006.
My original salesman said that I CAN get out of lease now and get into new car by using the leased vehicle as a trade-in.
I would actually prefer to purchase/lease from a different dealership, if possible.
Question1: Is this original dealer that leased me this car (via Chase Auto) in any position to give me any better of a deal on a lease/purchase (& trade-in) than any other dealer?
Question2: Would I be in any better of a position if I were to do my next lease OR loan with Chase Auto (my current leasor)?
Thank you
When leasing a 2005 RL through Honda Finance, can you add on an accessory such as a spoiler (really helps the otherwise bland appearance of the RL, improving its profile) and should be be listed in the lease so you don't get into any problem when you turn the car in? Or, how does that work? Same thing on Acura's optional back up sensor and steering wheel? Also, is it best to negotiate a lease price without these accessories first, and then offer to add onto the lease payment the amount that the parts department gives you on each item (cost of accessories divided by 36 months) and try not to let them include installation cost? Can accessories usually be rolled into the the monthly payments like tax, etc. if you don't want any down payment?
They tell me at parts department that the spoiler must be screwed in. Is that a problem for the finance company or does it complicate the lease, or would they normally even do it?
Any advice on how to handle accessories you might want on a lease would be much appreciated!
You can also probably negotiate a better price upfront... later, you'll have to pay retail, plus installation.
As long as they are all Acura accessories, you won't have to worry about drilling holes, etc.... Just be aware that this can really jack up the price of your lease, if the accessories can't be residualized.. You are only paying for 40% of the base car on a lease, but you'll be paying 100% for the un-residualized accessories.
And, no... it doesn't complicate the lease for the dealer... it just might cost you quite a bit more..
regards,
kyfdx
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Going back to my lease question on an Acura RL (posts 23,103 & 23,120 ), please confirm that the residual is 58% for a 48 month term. After seeing a 49% residual for the same term for a Cadillac STS (selling price for both cars are nearly equal), it just seems too obvious which lease is the obvious choice (from an economic perspective).
I’ll wait for a confirmation on the Acura’s residual before I seal the deal.
Thanks again!
Thanks! Also if you could, what would the payment be for 36 months with a selling price of $35,885 with zero down but first payment? oh and I live in texas (full taxes
My Land Rover Discovery lease is up in Nov. I'm not real familiar with leasing....just wondering...can I return the vehicle to another dealership (i.e., Chevy, Toyota) if I am interested in leasing/purchasing a different make car? In addition, what should I expect from the car inspection? Is it better to just go back to Land Rover? HELP!! :confuse:
You are likely to get it at the lowest possible price, that way, and you won't have to worry about what their costs might be...
regards,
kyfdx
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MSRP w/destination: $25,345
Less employee discount: ($2,648)
Less rebate: ($2,000)
Equals purchase price: $20,697
Hope this helps.
I am looking at getting the following two cars. The first is a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x2 with a MSRP of $27,050. The second is a Honda Civic Value Package with a MSRP of $15,460.
What would be a good price to get these vehicles at? I have been quoted $22,368 (I see others on here getting prices of $20,500) for the Jeep and $14,500 for the Honda. What would be a good monthly lease price on a 36 month term, 12,000 miles and $0 down for each vehicle?
I have gotten three or four dealers to give me a price for the Honda. The prices were all around $225 per month with all tax, title & license included. This seemed to be a little high to me. They were using a money factor of .00081 and a residual of 53%.
What would the money factor & residual be on the Jeep?
Thank you so much in advance for all of your help.
Chris
I was hoping you could "crunch" some numbers for me.
2005 G35 2wd sedan MSRP of $34,710, Price negotiated $31,800 (Sound good?)
36 month lease, 12k/yr and IL sales tax of 7.75% rolled into payments. Tags, security, etc only up front.I come up with a payment of around $463/mo. Does that sound right, and if so is it a "good" deal?
Also, What if I was to purchase this vehicle with Infiniti's current offer of 3.99% for 60 months what would my payments come out with the above info? Would I be better off to purchase or lease?
Thanks again, and once I get some BMW numbers I'll probably be back with more questions, but at this point it appears the Infiniti will be a much better deal. Tough to do for a current 3 series owner : )
Carnag
$31800
$2465 tax
$34,265 total
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I called Infiniti today because I couldn't make it to their showroom. I told them that I wanted to pay nothing more than fees and first month deposit and security deposit up front for my car. I also told them that I wanted to roll my acquisition fee into the monthly payments. They said fine and gave me a monthly price of around $512.00 a month. It seems as if they are trying to rip me off.
I also asked the salesperson for a list of fees I would be paying up front not including the acquisition fee so I could crunch the numbers myself. The salesperson told me that the manager couldn't give out this information????
Also, I was just wondering if I should even pay for security deposit considering my credit score is around 730, or is that too low?
2005 G35x for 36 months at 15,000 miles a year
MSRP: $38,910
Invoice: $35,598
Money Factor: .0013
Residual: 58%
I might be young and everything, but I really watch my finances and have good credit, so I dont want these guys at Infiniti screwing me around!!!!!!! Please help Car Man
Thanks,
Uconn
Thanks!
I currently have a car payment of $444 that I have to make for another four years. I also have around $5,000 negative equity in the car. I was hoping to get a two or three year lease, turn the car back in and basically be at a starting point with no negative equity being transferred from car to car.
Is the amount I am going to pay the for lease on the amount I used during the two years of a lease? If I buy a $25,000 car and the residual value is $12,500 (50% of the MSRP), I'm only paying on the $12,500 (what I used during the two years). If I had $5,000 in negative equity, then it would be $17,500 that I would be paying on plus fees. Am I incorrect? I'm trying to get an idea if I'm understanding the numbers correctly.
For example, I plugged these numbers in some on-line calculators and found I got a payment of around $481 + $32.48 (tax) for $513.48.
MSRP - $25,000
Base Cap Cost (assume they give me $3,000 off) - $22,000
Costs Added to Lease (taxes, feed, negative equity) - $6,000
Cap Cost Reduction (assume no down payment) - $0
Adjust Cap Cost - $28,000
Residual Value (assume 50% which I know may be high) - $12,500
Money Factor - 0.00125 (3%)
Term - 36
Sales Tax - 6.75%
Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Shawm
One dealer told me that Edmunds is incorrect and you have to add appr. $1000 dealer incentive???? or something like that. He is coming up with a monthly cost of $225 on his $14,500 BS invoice price.
I figure this
$13484 Invoice
$2000 down
$750 fees, registation, security
$500 trade in
3 years
51% residual
2.9% interest
8.25% tax
$200/month appr
Does this sound right? I am 100% new to this and I appreciate any help
Thanks
Also, do you know if the $1000 Owner Loyalty customer bonus cash on 2005.5 A4’s is available to current VW Passat owners? The Edmunds description says it is limited to current Audi owners?
Thank you very much for all of the assistance provided to everyone in these forums.
I sent an inquiry to D&M leasing about the upcoming car I am eventually going to need. Is there any pitfalls I should be aware of or is this and other independent leasing companies reputable?
thanks,
djocks
So lets see what you get after the imaginary lease expires:
1. Higher (!) payment for next three years: ($513-$444)*36=$2484 more (!!!) in payments. (and it assumes very favorable lease terms!).
2. Zero equity vs. possible small equity on your current one (or perhaps very small negative equity if you were to trade your car to a dealer). I assume $444/mo is a loan. Equity comes late in your case, but it will come. I assume it was zero-down deal, thus your car was probably about $20-23K sticker (depends on interest you are paying). You can check your expected depreciation in Edmunds. Say it will be -$500 to +$2000 on the trade-in value, it all depends on the car you own. Thus, in your current loan you'll still owe something like $4500 and the car will be worth probably $4K-7K, depending on the make and model. Your $444 could also be on smaller load w/higher interest, but that would mean you are subprime borower and would definitely not qualify for good lease terms.
So let me get it straight: you are entertaining to pay extra $3500-4500 (or even more if the lease turns to be higher than expected) just to drive something one year newer and have nothing to owe after three years. Plus, you tie yourself for those three years (you can always sell your current car, even if you have negative equity - try to do it with the lease!).
Boy, I want a car dealer job next to your house
2018 430i Gran Coupe
The car I have is a 2003 Hyundai SantFe LX with a 2.7 Litter (all the bells included). Right now I am getting around $12,500 for it which turns into around $5,000 in negative equity (I owe $17,500).
Right now I'm looking at a Trade In value (according to Edmunds) of $9,396 - $13,892 for trade in. Where do I find in Edmunds the value of the car in one year, two years, three years from now? I can't find it.
Thanks
Shawn
Here's a follow-up question:
The sales rep at Acura gave me the internal lease sheet, which has lots of good info on it, including invoice price, profit, etc. It does show three credit tiers. However, I spoke to the Finance Manager about my concerns (w/o allowing him to pull my credit, which can lower scores even more I guess), he told me that AHFC doesn't use traditional credit scores, but uses past auto loan finance history to calculate their own score. Does that make any sense/have you ever heard that?
Thanks.
2018 430i Gran Coupe
'95 Pathfinder
'97 Pathfinder
'01 Pathfinder
I decided in 8/03 to puchase a 2003 Murano because I usually went over on my miles and I didnt want a hassle at the end of my lease. Now I have 49,000 miles on my car (only 2 years old) and I still owe $24,000 on my car which would put me upside-down on a trade in. Do I keep making car payments until I am on the right side or should I get out of my vehicle now before I have to start putting $$ in upkeep. It currently needs new tires ($700 right there) and brakes and 60,000 maint are right around the corner.
Am I crazy to go back to leasing if I put 20,000 + miles per year?
The first two came back and said it would be $400 per month with all of the tax,title & license. I almost lost it. I currently have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition that I bought at 4.5% with $23,000 financed and my payments are only $428 per month.
I asked them how in the hell can a lease for a vehicle that is cheaper than the one I own cost me only be $28 less. They all look at me dumbfounded. I told them to go back and give me the tier 1 credit rate from GMAC (50% residual & .00185 money factor) and they still come out wanting $340 per month.
Am I wrong or are they using some kind of Alien math? They must really think consumers are dumb. Let me know what you guys think.