Nah I wouldn't worry about taking it off. I would be suprised if they said anything about it. By the way, how did you attach the screen to guard the radiator? Eric
Yep, they might not notice it much. Won't be in the way at all either. I just used plastic ties going through the most convenient holes found around there. The two parts practically fit in there okay without them but those hold it tight. I had to bend the top corners of the upper piece of screen mesh so it would squeeze into the space available, but other than that it was all a matter of sliding them between the bumper and radiator while the original grille was unclipped. Oh, with two holes made in the screen for those snap-together points to go through it. That's all I remember about it anyhow. Only possibilty of damage comes from that squeeze into the upper space. The lower part went in from below very easily. Thanks for the confidence, Eric, I won't say a word about it when I take the car in for its 30K mile checkup.
juice, I have had dismal experience with Hawk pads, the metallic particles transfered onto the back of my rotors, ruined a perfectly good set of rotors.
I am not the only one, a couple of friends had a similar experience. Changing pads is relatively simple just use a big C clamp to compress the pistons, don't forget to clean and grease the sliders on the calipers.Oh! and if the master cylinder is full to the top remove a little fluid before you compress the pistons,otherwise it will overflow and you don't want brake fluid on painted surfaces.
The OE pads are all good, Juice. I also have to chime in here and waive you off of Hawk pads. The OE pads are a pretty performance oriented pad as OE things go. As stated earlier, bring your C clamp and a shim to push both pistons at once. Or check S&^%$mods.
Though they're a bit different on the Forester, they still served as a guide.
Trouble I had was it was *filthy*. 9 years of brake dust and surface rust. Yuck.
The bolts on the Forester are 17mm, rather than 14 as on the instructions. They were stiff but my torque wrench is long and gave me enough leverage to get them out.
Had to tap the calipers out with a rubber hammer. The Miata was so much easier. Just one piston to push back in, plus you can remove just one bolt and tilt the caliper out of the way and still get it done.
Another hard part was pushing the pistons back in and getting the new pads in straight. One piston was stubborn towards the end, didn't want to go all the way in. I finally got them all the way in and struggled them back over the rotors, which had some rust at the edges (sanded that off some).
The 2nd side (passenger side) was much easier for some reason, maybe because I had experience with the other side.
Still didn't bleed them, but ran out of daylight so I'm doing that tomorrow.
I decided that replacing it myself was the practical thing to do. The dealer wanted approx. $270 for the starter plus an hour of labor which would push this up to nearly $400. The part at the local auto parts store cost me $85 plus a $30 core charge (refundable upon return of old part).
This replacement was technically easy but physically a bit tough since access to the bolts and starter itself is lousy. There are only two mounting bolts plus the power connectors. With the car up on ramps, I was able to remove the nut from the lower mounting bolt with a socket wrench plus extensions. Space is limited there allowing only 1/4 turns of the wrench, but once it loosened I was able to take it the rest of the way off by hand.
Now the top bolt was a different story! Getting to that bugger meant getting the wrench in place, snaking past coolant lines, avoiding fuel filter, throttle body, and other plumbing. This allowed for such little movement of the wrench and a poor angle for any leverage on a bolt that has been solidly in place for 8 years. Once I got it going and started backing the bolt out, I couldn't believe it. That bolt must be over 6 inches long, and it took forever to remove. The ratchet would travel for just one click before I ran out of room.... talk about a slow process. The bolt loosened enough eventually for some hand removal, but my knuckles are scraped and forearms bruised.
So, removal took me 1.5 hours with some breaks and head scrathing.
Install of the new one was a breeze by comparison, since I learned a bit during the dismantle phase and the engine was cooler. That took 1 hour including cleanup.
End result, my car cranks strongly and starts nicely. Plus a little boost in pride that I can perform some maintenance that may fall a bit outside the usual DIY category.
Did it feel like over $100 of work? I think I'd probably had done like you did, bought the starter myself (dang! $270 for a starter!!), but then taken it to someone who'd be able to do it for $100 to $150, still saving lotsa $$$. Last time I changed out a starter was on a 1969 Toyota, no trouble at all. I'm unwilling to try a sparkplug change on my Impreza OBS! Although I was still doing that kinda stuff on my GMC truck and other vehicles before.
For me, the hardest part of changing spark plugs is removing the spark plug boot (but only the first time)! I always use dielectric grease to make future changes easier.
juice, I don't know why you would want to bleed the brakes, unless changing fluid or you have air in the system bleeding the brakes is not necessary. I did not see you saying you had serviced the caliper sliders, if you didn't you should have, they eventually seize up and should be cleaned and greased at every brake service.
What about greasing the piston boot? I've never done it when servicing the brakes but the service manual says to push out the caliper piston with compressed air through the caliper body and lube the boot with the same grease that you use for the sliders. Nigilube or something IIRC.
The fluid was a bit dark in color, not brown but not light yellow either. It was not original - they replaced my brake master cylinder in a recall in 2000, but that means the fluid was 6 years old already.
I'm not sure I understand your terminology, but I did use high-temp brake grease on the two sliders that line up the two halves that make up the caliper, is that what you meant? I had to take the little rubber boot off one side, took it apart, and then greased them before putting them back together.
01 Outback this time, fronts were done no problem.
Rears were tough. The suspension bits in the rear get in the way and I did not have the right extensions to get the lower bolt off the caliper to get it out.
Tool suggestions? Do I just need a long ratchet extension? How long?
Or is access easier from the side, with a closed-ended wrench that has a slight angle to it?
Another question - the end links - to remove those do you need tools on both sides? I turn one side and it does not loosen or tighthen, the bolt just turns with the nut.
I can't express how many things are easier on the Forester vs. the Legacy. Even the stereo. OK, the spark plugs are easier on the Legacy, but that's it.
You need a long extension to remove the rear calipers on the legacy, they are not the easiest to service. As for greasing the sliders you appear to have gotten it right juice, however your brake fluid is past due to be replaced. Every 2 years or 24K is the recommened interval I believe.
I'm curious about peoples take on the Rear reading lamps that are available for the 06 OBWagon as an add-on. I saw that Subaru is now offering them as an accessory for the Wagon that has the moonroof. My question is: Has anyone doen this yet? If so, how does it look?
I don't normally have back seat passengers, but I have had one or two complaints of not neing able to see at night.
BTW, my dealer quoted me $107 for the pair installed.
Do you have Subaru Bucks? That's what I'd use for something like that. It's electrical, let them mess with it, if any problems creep up you're covered.
Actually I have a few Subaru bucks that will be expiring next year. That's what made me think of it! I was even toying with the thought of adding the subwoofer. Only thing with that is I was quoted $344 installed. I thought that may be a little high and debated getting it through my dealer.
Howdy all! Been too long since checking in here. Hope everyone's doing well.
I've done too very simple mods to my '05 GT Wagon recently. The first was the JDM/EDM armrest extension/extra storage cubby. The instructions where in Japanese (where were you Ken?! ) but had great pictures so it was an easy 20 minutes of operating a screwdriver.
The second was a little more involved. I've been wanting to check out the STi STS so I bought one online locally using subie bucks. Then I got a couple install quotes. $350 at the dealership!!??!! I guess that should be STealership. Also $150 at a local shop. OUCH!
Anyway, I research further on the LGT.com site and found that the difference between the stock shifter and the STi STS is only the main shifting rod (sorry if the terminology is incorrect), basically the rod you screw the shift nob on to and move back and forth when shifting. Meaning the extra couple rods of metal attached to the STi STS are the same as what's there already. So I followed the fantastic instructions someone posted in a "Walk through" on the lgt.com site for the Kartboy shifter and it took me about 45 minutes.
Definitely feels shorter and crisper. Also a little bit "notchier". Not sure it's that great just yet but am getting used to it.
Next I'd like to add an aux input for my iPod and the Spec. B steering wheel controls. Both are a little out of my comfort zone though as they involve electricity and wires. Not something I'm familiar with (none of that stuff on my bicycles!!! ).
The OBS currently sports pretty dinky single-pot discs up front. Most owners upgrade to WRX front brakes for a significant improvement, which is a cheap mod (~$100 on nabisco or ebay). BUT...15" rims don't clear. I'm running 16" SSR Comps and summer tires, plus I have the stock steelies with crap A/S no-names AND the nice looking 15" Alloys from the '99 Outback lying around. So, given the fact that we have very little money these days, should I:
a)leave the brakes alone and run the crappy off-brand A/S
b)get good A/S tires mounted on the alloys and call it a day
c)run the crappy A/S this winter, upgrade the brakes in the Spring, and hope I have a little dough to pick up a set of WRX takeoffs and RE92's next winter
a) I wouldn't bother with your brakes unless you are doing track days or something similar that works your brakes a TON. and the stock calipers are dual piston btw, assuming they are the same as a '99 RS.
That is basically all you woul;d need Loosh, and it is a fairly cheap mod. The master cylinder brace that stops the firewall flex made a great differnce on The GT took away the mushy brake pedal.
Unless you're getting brake fade now, the stock brakes have enough power to lock up the wheels, and anything more is overkill (unless you're gonna track it).
You should see the puny brakes on my Miata. They upsized in '94, mine's a '93. They fit easily in the 14" rims. Yet they can still lock up the tires no problem. No ABS.
kinda how I feel too, although with drums in the back... :surprise: They don't feel all that competent. Meh. Probably a better idea from a safety standpoint to get good A/S tires for the winter instead of putting my trust in these, these, uh...Hercules 4000s :confuse:
.....scored a set of WRX front brakes (calipers, rotors, pads) with 15k miles on them for $150 this week. Who knows when I'll get a chance to install them. I know from experience that this is the sort of thing that could take 2 hours, or two days, depending on how many hitches there are. At any rate, my winter rims won't clear them so it will be spring time before I attempt it.
But it is well regarded as a big, big upgrade on these cars. From teensy weensy rotors and single pot calipers to 2 pots and 10.5" rotors. More than makes up for the drums in back.
I have the 2001 WRX, i have some lag on the turbo, and when i say that, when I pull off and the turbo kicks in, and go to second gear, the BOV doesnt do what it use to do, it did always dump the extra air out and you could hear how it dumps, you cant anymore, one of our dealer ships had a look and he siad I need to replace it otherwise I might end up replacing my turbo. So i believe him, he is the Subaru dealership.. Do you have s0me pointers you can give me?
Where are you located? I'm assuming outside the US as there were no 2001 WRXs sold in the US. It could very well be your problem, so replace it with a stock one and see if it fixes it. It should be bolted to the Intercooler, 2 bolts on the firewall side.
Well I finally got fed up with the semi annual rebuild of the Willwood calipers, could never get the suckers to stop leaking. They ruined the clear coat on both front rims,
Anyway today I installed Subaru 4 pots and of course the 16" winter rims didn't clear the 4 pots so I had to buy rims as well. Pictures are in my carspace and I cannot figure out how to post them on here.
Is that the size of the RS Rims? I guess the WRX ones are 16x6.5 and the RS were 16x7. We run RS rims (5 spoke and 6 spoke) exclusively on the race car with the 4-pot FHIs.
Yes, the RS pre-02 are 16x7. Which was why they were in big demand for 02-05 WRXs, when people wanted to put the 4-pots on, while retaining 16s. The 02-05 WRX 16s came in 16x6.5, which practically made them worthless other than for the stock setup.
Comments
I just used plastic ties going through the most convenient holes found around there. The two parts practically fit in there okay without them but those hold it tight. I had to bend the top corners of the upper piece of screen mesh so it would squeeze into the space available, but other than that it was all a matter of sliding them between the bumper and radiator while the original grille was unclipped. Oh, with two holes made in the screen for those snap-together points to go through it. That's all I remember about it anyhow.
Only possibilty of damage comes from that squeeze into the upper space. The lower part went in from below very easily.
Thanks for the confidence, Eric, I won't say a word about it when I take the car in for its 30K mile checkup.
So...OE or aftermarket (Hawk)?
Also, any links to a good set of instructions? I've done brakes on the Miata so it should not be too hard, but there are more pistons on this set.
-juice
I am not the only one, a couple of friends had a similar experience. Changing pads is relatively simple just use a big C clamp to compress the pistons, don't forget to clean and grease the sliders on the calipers.Oh! and if the master cylinder is full to the top remove a little fluid before you compress the pistons,otherwise it will overflow and you don't want brake fluid on painted surfaces.
Brake fluid is an excellent paint remover.
Cheers Pat.
where else but scoobymods for instructions! you should know that :P
as well as the oe pads worked for you, i'd stick with them.
jim
I also got one of those hand pump brake bleeder kits, as suggested on that same site.
Question, though, I saw instructions to bleed the brakes, but not to change pads. Am I blind, or do such instructions not exist?
For the caliper, do I remove the top bolt or the bottom bolt, to tilt it away?
-juice
Trouble I had was it was *filthy*. 9 years of brake dust and surface rust. Yuck.
The bolts on the Forester are 17mm, rather than 14 as on the instructions. They were stiff but my torque wrench is long and gave me enough leverage to get them out.
Had to tap the calipers out with a rubber hammer. The Miata was so much easier. Just one piston to push back in, plus you can remove just one bolt and tilt the caliper out of the way and still get it done.
Another hard part was pushing the pistons back in and getting the new pads in straight. One piston was stubborn towards the end, didn't want to go all the way in. I finally got them all the way in and struggled them back over the rotors, which had some rust at the edges (sanded that off some).
The 2nd side (passenger side) was much easier for some reason, maybe because I had experience with the other side.
Still didn't bleed them, but ran out of daylight so I'm doing that tomorrow.
-juice
I decided that replacing it myself was the practical thing to do. The dealer wanted approx. $270 for the starter plus an hour of labor which would push this up to nearly $400. The part at the local auto parts store cost me $85 plus a $30 core charge (refundable upon return of old part).
This replacement was technically easy but physically a bit tough since access to the bolts and starter itself is lousy. There are only two mounting bolts plus the power connectors. With the car up on ramps, I was able to remove the nut from the lower mounting bolt with a socket wrench plus extensions. Space is limited there allowing only 1/4 turns of the wrench, but once it loosened I was able to take it the rest of the way off by hand.
Now the top bolt was a different story! Getting to that bugger meant getting the wrench in place, snaking past coolant lines, avoiding fuel filter, throttle body, and other plumbing. This allowed for such little movement of the wrench and a poor angle for any leverage on a bolt that has been solidly in place for 8 years. Once I got it going and started backing the bolt out, I couldn't believe it. That bolt must be over 6 inches long, and it took forever to remove. The ratchet would travel for just one click before I ran out of room.... talk about a slow process. The bolt loosened enough eventually for some hand removal, but my knuckles are scraped and forearms bruised.
So, removal took me 1.5 hours with some breaks and head scrathing.
Install of the new one was a breeze by comparison, since I learned a bit during the dismantle phase and the engine was cooler. That took 1 hour including cleanup.
End result, my car cranks strongly and starts nicely. Plus a little boost in pride that I can perform some maintenance that may fall a bit outside the usual DIY category.
Thanks to Wes for your help and advice.
Alan 98 OBW Ltd
I think I'd probably had done like you did, bought the starter myself (dang! $270 for a starter!!), but then taken it to someone who'd be able to do it for $100 to $150, still saving lotsa $$$.
Last time I changed out a starter was on a 1969 Toyota, no trouble at all.
I'm unwilling to try a sparkplug change on my Impreza OBS! Although I was still doing that kinda stuff on my GMC truck and other vehicles before.
Jim
Cheers Pat.
Eric
I'm not sure I understand your terminology, but I did use high-temp brake grease on the two sliders that line up the two halves that make up the caliper, is that what you meant? I had to take the little rubber boot off one side, took it apart, and then greased them before putting them back together.
Sound about right?
-juice
Rears were tough. The suspension bits in the rear get in the way and I did not have the right extensions to get the lower bolt off the caliper to get it out.
Tool suggestions? Do I just need a long ratchet extension? How long?
Or is access easier from the side, with a closed-ended wrench that has a slight angle to it?
Another question - the end links - to remove those do you need tools on both sides? I turn one side and it does not loosen or tighthen, the bolt just turns with the nut.
I can't express how many things are easier on the Forester vs. the Legacy. Even the stereo. OK, the spark plugs are easier on the Legacy, but that's it.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
As for greasing the sliders you appear to have gotten it right juice, however your brake fluid is past due to be replaced. Every 2 years or 24K is the recommened interval I believe.
Cheers Pat.
Does anybody has clue how to lift up cople inches Subaru Baja?????
Please help.....
Time to do the wife's Legacy, though.
-juice
I don't normally have back seat passengers, but I have had one or two complaints of not neing able to see at night.
BTW, my dealer quoted me $107 for the pair installed.
Thanks,
Mark
-juice
Mark
Get extra oil filters with the remaining Subaru Bucks, that's what I did with my last on-line order of accessories.
-juice
Been too long since checking in here. Hope everyone's doing well.
I've done too very simple mods to my '05 GT Wagon recently. The first was the JDM/EDM armrest extension/extra storage cubby. The instructions where in Japanese (where were you Ken?! ) but had great pictures so it was an easy 20 minutes of operating a screwdriver.
The second was a little more involved. I've been wanting to check out the STi STS so I bought one online locally using subie bucks. Then I got a couple install quotes. $350 at the dealership!!??!! I guess that should be STealership. Also $150 at a local shop. OUCH!
Anyway, I research further on the LGT.com site and found that the difference between the stock shifter and the STi STS is only the main shifting rod (sorry if the terminology is incorrect), basically the rod you screw the shift nob on to and move back and forth when shifting. Meaning the extra couple rods of metal attached to the STi STS are the same as what's there already. So I followed the fantastic instructions someone posted in a "Walk through" on the lgt.com site for the Kartboy shifter and it took me about 45 minutes.
Definitely feels shorter and crisper. Also a little bit "notchier". Not sure it's that great just yet but am getting used to it.
Next I'd like to add an aux input for my iPod and the Spec. B steering wheel controls. Both are a little out of my comfort zone though as they involve electricity and wires. Not something I'm familiar with (none of that stuff on my bicycles!!! ).
Cheers!
-Ian
-juice
The OBS currently sports pretty dinky single-pot discs up front. Most owners upgrade to WRX front brakes for a significant improvement, which is a cheap mod (~$100 on nabisco or ebay). BUT...15" rims don't clear. I'm running 16" SSR Comps and summer tires, plus I have the stock steelies with crap A/S no-names AND the nice looking 15" Alloys from the '99 Outback lying around. So, given the fact that we have very little money these days, should I:
a)leave the brakes alone and run the crappy off-brand A/S
b)get good A/S tires mounted on the alloys and call it a day
c)run the crappy A/S this winter, upgrade the brakes in the Spring, and hope I have a little dough to pick up a set of WRX takeoffs and RE92's next winter
d) ???
have at it.
~Colin
but you raise a good point....an intermediate upgrade to 2 pots and slightly bigger rotors, like off a Legacy or RS.
Cheers Pat.
Unless you're getting brake fade now, the stock brakes have enough power to lock up the wheels, and anything more is overkill (unless you're gonna track it).
You should see the puny brakes on my Miata. They upsized in '94, mine's a '93. They fit easily in the 14" rims. Yet they can still lock up the tires no problem. No ABS.
-juice
The upgrade brakes would be of no use to you if the crappy tires won't hold.
-Dave
-mike
But it is well regarded as a big, big upgrade on these cars. From teensy weensy rotors and single pot calipers to 2 pots and 10.5" rotors. More than makes up for the drums in back.
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
Anyway today I installed Subaru 4 pots and of course the 16" winter rims didn't clear the 4 pots so I had to buy rims as well. Pictures are in my carspace and I cannot figure out how to post them on here.
Cheers Pat.
I love my FHI 4-pots, they are a great upgrade. That's what we use on the race car.
-mike
Cheers Pat.
-mike
-mike
Cheers Pat.