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I have no problem with what you presented, but it's not so cut and dried. What about the person who uses Mobil 1 10k miles but wouldn't trust the dino oil more than 3k? Mobil 1 gets even cheaper. What about the person who's willing to use Mobil 1 but will change it at the same 3k interval as the dino? The dino is obviously cheaper in that situation.
I used Mobil 1 in a couple of my vehicles. One of them used dino before and after the Mobil 1 experiment (about 20k miles). I track my fuel economy every tank and noticed no change in the fuel economy figures. I believe synthetic oil can provide better fuel economy in some situations, but most folks who believe that do NOT think it can provide anywhere near the benefit you quoted. 14mpg to 15.5mpg is > 10% improvement. If you are getting that in your vehicle, consider yourself lucky. But don't consider it the norm.
Its just not true to say Chevron is cheaper. So, let's talk about the real reason that you use Chevron Supreme.
BTW: I do not change my filter between oil changes.
At 7500 mile intervals, the M1 would have to changed 13.3 times.
$3.85 x 5 qts x 13.3 = $256.00
Filters @ $5 x 13.3 = $66.50
Total cost for M1 is $322.50
At 5K intervals, the Chevron would have to be changed 20 times.
$1.20 x 5 qts x 20 = $120.00
Filters @ $5 x 20 = $100.00
Total cost for Chevron is $220.00
M1 has been "slick" as well. For years they called conv./synth blends inferior, then produced one of their own.
M1 is a PAO and other basestocks. What's this "other" business? :-)
Just trying to make an informed decision when I switch to synthetic (and something cheaper than Amsoil, Redline, Motul).
-Dennis
I have done oil analysis at 7K and was rather happy for a new engine. I posted the results on the synthetic board and you can view them on this link:
bigorange30 "Synthetic motor oil" Sep 5, 2002 10:43pm
I will do another analysis after 20K like Blackstone suggested since the engine will be broken in at that point. I'm not sure they mean that the oil should be put in after 20K or the oil removed just after 20K is best to analyze so I may do both. I am not seeing a problem with 8k or more based on the results I have gotten so far or seen from others.
It just comes down to the question of:
Which one gives better lubrication?
I am betting on the mobil1 and $20/year is not a big bet.
I assume you are trying to find the proper oil for your Impreza. If you have a WRX, you are a lucky man. I would baby it also. Heck if I had an Impreza RS I'd baby it. Regardless of which synth you choose, Mobil 1 PAO or Castrol, Valvoline, Qstate, et al. you will give your engine much better protection than conventional motor oil. Check a wholesale club like BJ's or Costco and you should definitely find synth for under $4/qt.
greenmax: I understand your point although I disagree with it. Which do you use and why? They do claim that it improves the engine's efficiency. Also, stop and go driving is very hard on the engine not allowing it to heat up sufficiently. This is a perfect case for the improved lubrication of mobil1. They make that claim specifically on their website.
http://www.mobil1.com/index.jsp
M1 is a PAO and other basestocks. What's this "other" business? :-)"
If by M1 you mean Mobil 1, it is NOT a synthetic blend. Mobil Drive Clean blend is a conventional basestock with PAO blended in. Mobil 1 is PAO (aka Group IV) except for the carrier oil for the additive package which is an ester. I guess that "this 'other' business" is the ester (aka Group V). Group IV and Group V basestocks are true synthetics.
rtl2 The presence of (15%?) ester, said to be there as a carrier, is far more than that. It is the full basis of the elevated quality of Mobil 1 over some mineral oils.
I appreciate others opinions and he is at the top of the list in sharing his views. That's what this board is about. We don't have to agree with each other, but we just might assimilate some good info along the way.
For me, it's M1 when available at my chosen price.
mike1qaz
I bought a WRX last August and had an Impreza Outback before that. My wife has an OB Ltd. Not that we like Subaru's or anything.
And yes, I was referring to the Mobil Drive Clean Blend not M1 Tri or SuperSyn. Thanks for the clarification on the "other".
I guess I just love to root for the underdog.
-Dennis
I have a WRX, and will be putting on approximately 23K miles a year in SoCal. It is mainly highway, with some stop-and-go. Which oil would you recommend for a high-pressure turboed engine, and what oil change intervals? I was assuming that if I used Mobil 1 I could go 5000-7500 miles an oil change. I am currently using a Mobil oil filter
As to whether two engines at 200,000 miles and one on dino the other Mobil 1. Well, thousands of anecdotal claims of dino and 3000 mile changes and 200,000 miles. Very few on synthetic (just not that many samples that's all) . If you change your oil every 3000 miles yep, easily no problem. Now, Mobil 1 having less wear at 7500 interval vs dino every 3000. Who cares, at that point you are sick of driving that 10-15 year old piece of junk where the body is falling off around the engine anyway and BOTH are running fine!
Whatever floats your boat!
1. Car came from factory with syn, ie. BMW, Vette, MB, etc.
2. Car is noisy on startup, and syn quiets things down.
3. You want to extend drain interval from say 3 or 4K to 7 or 8K.
4. You like putting the "best" into your car.
It should not matter one bit what oil anyone else uses.
/rant
Sorry, but I couldn't resist.
Happy Motoring,
Jack
I think I'll put in M1 at my upcoming 7,500 change. :-)
-Dennis
I agree with BigO, most people do not consider $1 - $2 a quart oil to be synthetic.
An example of good synthetics would be whatever your manufacturer recommends, or Mobil 1, RedLine or AMSOil.
Jack
Chevron has taken the highroad in not claiming their group2 product to be synth. I congratulate them on this approach. Pennz, Castrol also make no such claim for their low end products.
They all do claim synth for their group3 products, though we all know better.
Usually the group3 and group4 products have a more robust additive package for longer change durations.
There's more to it than just base oil. And I do agree, todays SL group2 oils are better than the SJ class. When speaking of conventional dino today, the standard for most manufacturers is group2 hydrocracked oil. There are a few exceptions though.
Speaking of additives, moly has been introduced into quite a few low end products to increase wear protection because of the lessening of the ZDDP package to increase cat-converter longevity. This appears to be a good thing. I believe Schaeffers and Redline were first to recognize the benefits of moly and now the rest of the industry is following their lead, including M1 SS.
So come on Chevron, where is the moly? Probably can be added for 10-20 cents/quart.
mike1qaz
Jack
mike1qaz
-M1 has over 60%(?) of the synth market, so that many people can't be wrong (from a Ward's Automotive news story on "Bob's the oil guy").
-I received Castrol's spec data in the mail and M1's pour point is about 20 deg. F lower (with a lot of days with temps in the teens in NJ this winter, the lower the better). Also M1 has a higher flash point.
-Group IV vs. Group III
One thing though, Syntec's cst at 100C is 10.0 and M1's is 9.8 (both 10W30). The Syntec is thicker at 100, so that should mean better protection, right? I'm not sure these numbers can be directly compared though, since the basestocks are different.
-Dennis
Group I oils have some advantages-- detergency for one over Group II. Mobil Drive Clean has bad specs but lots of people have good luck with it. It's a Group I with a strong additive package.