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Honda Accord problems

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Comments

  • graphixchicgraphixchic Member Posts: 15
    Isn't there a way to tell when a car or the engine and transmission was manufactured.

    If there is a recall on the cars they should have some reference numbers or VIN code to tell you what is part of the recall and what isn't.

    That way if the transmission is part of a recall you just check the numbers of the transmissions that were bad and check it against your numbers.
  • acmeroadrunnracmeroadrunnr Member Posts: 81
    richf stated;
    "there have been a large number of messages that
    have no information contained in them other than
    personal attacks and other uncivil comments."

    I find that many of the richf posts against Honda
    are unfounded. In some instances they have even led fellow posters into believing richf's self
    proclaimed "lemon" has/had transmission problems,
    and then later admitted that the "lemon" doesn't
    have transmission problems. This, in the very least is uncivil and perhaps considered libel against American Honda. It seems that the opinion of many knowledgable posters (who have followed the threads) that richf statements are mis-guiding lies and that is why they have responded to richf
    asking to stop the nonsense. I recall a few newbies that have responded back thanking richf, because richf made them believe all Honda's are trash, therefore they will never consider buying one.

    richf also stated;
    "While I realize that these people are just plain
    immature....and uninformative ad hominem attacks."

    This sounds like a "personal" attack against many
    posters who have tried to assist richf just to find out that richf resisted any help, all he/she wants to do is pine away about multiple problems which were never experienced with the "lemon". I don't know why!

    All I ask of richf is to stop posting junk threads
    (as others have in the past) on any of these
    boards. In return I will not be forced to advise
    new readers, who remain unaware of his tactics, to
    ignore richf because it is he/she who is "uncivil" and
    "immature".

    I will also ask the moderator if it seems fair that richf to use Edmunds.com to stake his/her personal attack against American Honda. Maybe richf should go build his/her own web site to satisfy this purpose.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    ...in part, as richrf has quoted, states "I agree to disagree in a civil manner should I take issue with the statements of another Town Hall participant..." - please use the link on the sidebar at left to review what everyone agreed to when joining Town Hall.

    It is possible to disagree with other poster's opinions without resorting to name calling and accusations. If one person posts problems with a particular vehicle, and five or ten people post they have no such problem, a reader new to these threads can draw his or her own conclusions.

    There is no cause to label another's posts as "lies" or other posters as "immature". We need to stick to agreeing or disagreeing about opinions without going after personalities.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • acmeroadrunnracmeroadrunnr Member Posts: 81
    Moderator Pat states;
    "If one person posts problems with a particular vehicle, and five or ten people post they have no such problem, a reader new to these threads can draw his or her own conclusions."

    Seems like such a simple solution. The irritating part is that richf keeps re-posting the same messages. Months ago, civil posters responded back with "I don't have that problem, or have you tried...". It doesn't matter though, richf continues posting the same messages over and over again.

    I suggest that you look alot closer into richfs statements made in various message boards and you too will see that he is merely using edmunds.com in his attack against American Honda and a Chicago dealership. People like this should be shut off after their first post.
  • bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    I am sorry to have to do this, but:

    We will now begin a one week "cooling off period". Any posts regarding the dispute between acmeroadrunner and richrf will be permanently DELETED.

    We are hear to talk about automobiles, not to make and verbalize value judgements against each other. Many of these posts DO NOT conform with the User Agreement and things have gone beyond the point where it's questionable.

    Please continue to discuss Honda Accord problems without the acrimony that has been showing lately.

    Thanks,
    your host, Bruce.
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    Some from elsewhere may know that the '90 Honda was donated to charity, with a local repair shop promising to provide service at cost. Seems it now needs the rear motor mount. Shop said two side mounts should also be replaced. "Cost" = $320. Does this sound reasonable? Dealer quoted $550. Is this a job that a weekend mechanic could handle? Apart from the annoying vibration, how essential is the job?
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    My light went on once in the summer of 1991. I must have been running on fumes, because it never went on again even with less than a gallon in the tank. Dealer fiddled with it a couple of times, but it was not big deal. I just learned to believe that "E" meant empty. As for the Rodeo, the light goes on with over 5 gallons in the tank and I panic thinking I have to find a gas station within the next mile, so I think I actually liked it better without the light.
  • dhuet2000dhuet2000 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 V6 Coupe that I bought just over a month ago. I do drive a lot and have already 2500+ miles in it. I have put gas about five times, and every time the low gas light has come on when I had about 3 gallons left, before it reached the empty mark.
    I would definitely get this fixed. It should be under warranty.
    By the way, I have been pleasantly surprised that I am getting about 26 miles to the gallon. Half of my driving is highway driving, and I do drive fairly fast (75 - 85 MPH).
    So far, this car has performed flawlessly, even through the recent bad weather we have had here in the North East. I hope it stays that way.
  • mrpiccolomrpiccolo Member Posts: 8
    Mine comes on when I have 3 gallons or so left in the tank.
  • robertsmxrobertsmx Member Posts: 5,525
    Same here. 3 gallons remaining gets the low-fuel light going.

    '98 Accord EX/38.5K miles and flawlessly counting
  • vmelabvmelab Member Posts: 4
    On my 2000 Accord EX coupe, I noticed the door/trunk opening indicator light is not on when either the door or trunk is open, unless the motor is running. Is this normal?
    The reason I ask is because the light is on for my other cars (toyota, nissan and lexus) whenever the door/trunk is open (even when the the motor is not running).
    I called the Honda dealer, and they said it is the case for Honda Accord.
    I just want to verify this (since I really can't believe it). Can anyone tell me the correct answer? Thanks a lot.
    And thanks to the prvious reponses about the low fuel indicator. I have scheduled an appointment with the dealer for this. So I would like to make sure what dealer said about the door opening indicator is correct. Otherwise, I will make sure they fix it too.
  • terminalisterminalis Member Posts: 40
    I have Accord EX-V6 2000 (manufactured on Dec. 1999). From day 1, my Accord showed transmission shudder at low RPMs (below ~2500). It was most noticeable at around 50 and 20 mph when cruising. I took the car to the dealer, and after a couple of run arounds and a few phone calls to Honda, they decided to replace the torque converter in my car. Now I have a new torque converter, but the car still shudders at low RPM when cruising (although not as much as before, and the gear shift is pretty smooth now. no hard shifting from 1st to 2nd anymore.) Also, I feel little shudder right before the car comes to a stop when braking. Plus, recently (1500 miles) I hear a strange 'ta-ta' noise coming from the passenger side, mostly when climbing a hill at low RPM and constant speed.

    I'm wondering if it's normal to have a shudder like this, even after it's been replaced with the 'good' torque converter. Is a small amount of shudder OK for a car with automatic lock-up torque converter? My Buick Century automatic never did this. I'm pretty happy with my Accord overall. It's just that mild shudder and strange noise that's been bothering me a little. Any inputs will be appreciated. Thanks.

    --terminalis
  • mrpiccolomrpiccolo Member Posts: 8
    vmelab:

    Yep, the dealer is right. The ignition starts up the electronic system so yeah, you need to have the engine on to see the indicator lights for the doors, trunk, and hood.


    terminalis:

    Umm, my EX V6 Coupe does not shudder. Could you have warped rotors?
  • vmelabvmelab Member Posts: 4
    Thanks.
    I checked with my co-worker who has a 99 LX and confirmed it too.
    I just can't believe this as it is a basic feature for many other car manufacturers (at least, Toyota, Nissan and Lexus).
  • rrbhokiesrrbhokies Member Posts: 108
    I have a 1999 Accord EX with 4 wheel disc brakes and alloy wheels.

    If you look at the shiny surface that the brake pads make contact with, I see what looks like rust on all four wheels.

    In any event, I'm wondering if it's normal to have rust (or what looks like rust) on the brakes like that. I can't recall ever seeing this before.

    If it's not rust, then what is it?
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    but it's common an almost all cars with disc brakes; meaning, all cars. (they all have at least 2.) Unpainted metal surface+weather=rust.
  • timadamstimadams Member Posts: 294
    Yes, it is rust on the rotors (the round part that the brake pads squeeze against). It happens to all cars after you've driven through wet weather or even after a heavy dew and the car sits long enough for the rust to form.

    The rust layer is exceptionally thin and gets wiped/grinded off the first time you apply the brakes...have you noticed a slight grinding noise when you apply the brakes the first time after you see the rust?

    All of this is quite normal. You probably notice it because the wheels on your car allow you to see the rotors easily.
  • garyligaryli Member Posts: 2
    I bought 2000 EX 5-sp last Oct. and it ran fine
    until one cold night it stated vibrating at idle
    speed. I brought to dealer and they told me it was within the spec and they adjusted the idle.
    But it did not improve. Last week I jacked up front left wheel to change engine oil and found the front wheel was spinning at neutral after I started the engine. I thought the engine and transmission are not engaged when in neutral. Or this is a special deign?
  • jhart3jhart3 Member Posts: 1
    at 8000 miles, my 6 cylinder accord ex developed a very loud, unsetteling clunk when driving in reverse.thr dealership just installed a new transmission, and i have the same problem.i know this is not uncommon, but has anyone actually gotten their car repaired properly?
  • grassy4grassy4 Member Posts: 1
    I was asleep at the switch and let a Honda dealer do a Birnstein engine flush ($125) on my 98 Accord with 16,000 miles. The oil had been changed regularly. I called my service advisor after the fact to ask why they recommended it and was told they recommended the engine flush after the break in period to get any crud out. She told me Honda recommended it but did not put it in the owners manuals because all of their dealers don't have the Birnstein equipment.

    Some of the posts on the Maintenance and Repair board say the flush may actually damage an engine.

    Your comments are appreciated.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Watch this dealer like a hawk-bet he also puts all kinds of unwanted crap on his new cars. No way can anyone justify a flush for a new car. If you have a car that has not been driven for 5 years or oil not changed in 50K miles-maybe.

    Find someone else to service your car-if this guy will do a flush on a new engine-he may well sabatoge your car to create more business-stay away from this crook.

    I live in southern WI-is he by chance near me-I like to butt heads with yahoos like this-really is fun to nail them to the wall.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Grassy4, I expect your dealer shop was trying to recover their investment in the Birnstean equipment. In your case, a crankcase flush certainly was not needed.

    It is unlikely that any harm was done by this flush but a well-maintained engine surely does not need "flushing" with anything other than the replacement 5w-30 motor oil.
  • kimc1kimc1 Member Posts: 2
    About 5 years ago, I noticed shifting problems with my accord. Instead of shifting, it would jerk from one gear to the next, park into reverse and first to second. Took to two transmission shops and told this was normal for a Honda. In 10/96, ended up having a transmission overhaul ($1530). Then 16 months later, ring gear broke and had to have it replaced ($224). Soon after this, I was driving down the highway when suddenly I began losing speed. It was as if I had shifted into neutral. I pulled the car over, shut it off and then started it back up after about 3 mins. It ran just fine. Took it to repair shop but they could find no problem. Did not do it again til 6 months later. Took it to three other repair shops and they could not find a problem. Since then this problem has increased from every 6 months to once a month and now today, about every 10 miles. (Bad timing, was on my way to look at new cars and had to turn back). No one could tell me what was causing the problem until about a week ago when a fourth Honda mech. thought it might be the convertor and/or metal shavings clogging up the filter. The car has 160,000 miles, no lights come on when this problem occurs and it seems it only happens when it is damp outside. I plan to start calling around transmission shops on Monday to see if the problem can be found and fixed. Any ideas what is going on?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If your 88 accord has a carb then you may have a bad bi-metalic spring. This spring operated the hot air door and is located inside the air breather. If not a carb then possibly a bad igniter and or clogged fuel. The trans problem of the past may not be your problems now and if some techs havent found there to be trans problems then try the spring.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    As far as the engine flush on the low mileage car it most likely did not do any damage and or did anything at all except maybe flush your pocket a bit. As a tech I have found most of the engine flush machines to be a waste. Some others such as an injector,trans,and even the coolant flushers are more effective. But not necessary until the 40k area or so depending on how you want to maintenance your car.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Gary, we have had several civics that had rough idles and they all had tight valves that needed adjustment.Have your dealer try that they can warranty an adjustment up to the point that Honda recomends it for maintenance and that is at 30k..Good luck
  • fcatfcat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Accord LX that with 67,000 miles had the starter malfunction and smoked billowed from the engine. The dealer repaired it for $525 (ouch!). Has anyone had similar problems?
  • capriroostercaprirooster Member Posts: 21
    Auburn63,

    Are you by any chance a Honda factory certified/trained Technician?? I have a question for you on a civic..

    Thanks
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Caprirooster,
    Whats up what is your question,I will do my best. I have been a Honda tech at a dealership for 15years.
  • capriroostercaprirooster Member Posts: 21
    auburn63,

    My Civic had hit a pothole on a road one night in Atlanta. It had caused the car's passenger side sub-frame to buckle/shift 8mm. I had the sub-frame pulled back into alignment after changing all the tires and rims.

    Now my question is, how do I know if my front struts (drive wheel) is going?? The car has 94100+ miles on it now. I was told by a Honda Service advisor that the sub-frame needs to be totally replace since the steering wheel start to shimy at about 75+ mph based on the fact of that the frame/unibody is no longer rigid therefore causing more feedback from the road surface. I live in Atlanta and have driven up to NJ for a contract position in the previous six months.

    I am really hesitant to take it back to the folks who repaired the sub-frame unless I have concrete proof that the sub-frame needs to be replaced.

    What's your professional opinion without having seen the car.

    Thanks Auburn63
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Since this topic is about Honda Accords, I'm going to ask that you take this conversation over to Honda Civic problems (Topic #912) so that others interested in Civic issues may benefit from your discussion. You can click on that highlighted link to go directly there.

    Thanks!

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Caprirooster,
    Struts when they are going bad usually make a clunking noise as they are no longer absorbing the shock as they are supposed to be or they leak.The bearings and drive axles are also usually noisy when going bad, however the inner joint can cause a vibration if the inner cup that the joint rids in has been damaged in a hit. That vibration is usually more noticeable while accelerating. The beam or frame doesnt make any sense to me cause if the alignment came out good after they were done then that should be fine. I dont really buy into the not as rigid theory.However if there is a break in it or if it is not a solid repair then maybe.So if the main and or only problem you are having is a wheel vibration while driving and not while braking then I would think you need to have a good high speed balance of the front tires and or better yet an on the car balance if you can find a shop that does that.They are hard to find though. The only other thing I can think of is that possibly you may have bent the spindle also but that should also cause an incurrable brake shimmy.Almost all driving vibrations are balance and or tire related. If the tires are new then it must be a balance problem.If possible have the tires and rims swapped from one car to another and see if problem transfers to the other car.I hope I have helped...Good luck
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    So Sorry Pat455 I just noticed your post after I posted mine, was only paying attention to Capri`s at the time.
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    Could you by any chance tell me if you know about the starting problems in the heat caused by a defective main relay, and if so, when you first might have learned of it? Thanks!!
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    I think its great that you are willing to share your expertise!!!!!!!!
  • capriroostercaprirooster Member Posts: 21
    Pat,

    I will post the reply to Auburn over in the Civic forum...

    Auburn,

    please see my reply there.
  • zgliuzgliu Member Posts: 4
    I bought a 99 Accord LX V6. Whenever I start
    the car and drive a few feet (either forward
    or backward), I hear a short buzz sound. It's
    like some spring is released or something else.
    After that, everything is fine. This happens
    each time I start and drive the car. It's only
    audible with all windows closed.

    One dealer told me it's the ABS that makes
    the noise, and it's normal. However, some
    other people owning the same car told me
    they didn't hear the same sound.

    Is it really the ABS that makes the noise?
    If it is, why ABS needs to make such a noise
    whenever the car is started? To indicate ABS
    is functioning?

    Thanks!
  • bquickbquick Member Posts: 5
    A friend has an 89 Accord that kills the battery AFTER driving in the rain. Alternator was replaced....Any ideas....must be a short, right?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    We have known about this problem for several years now. Hard to say exactly how long but the most common complaint is after shutting the car off and then a short period later trying to restart and it will not.However we have seen other conditions such as one day it just will not start or after sitting in the sun for a while. All of these complaints are almost always the main relay.Mostly Accords from 1990-1993 some 94`s but we have also had some civics. Not sure on the years but I think 92-94.
    Thanks for the PS post..
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I will have to pay attention to your complaint and see if I hear others doing it. However the ABS could very well be your problem as it needs to presurize every now and then.This happens on start up at times as you have discribed and after ABS operation/ heavy braking.This is completely normal.So if you want to test it then find a patch of dirt, ice, snow, wet road ect. Make sure to be as safe as possible and brake hard to operate the ABS. You may feel a slight kick back in the pedal and should not skid. Then see if you can hear the same noise after coming to a stop. It should re-presurize and make that buzz sound.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Hard to say but could be. Does the alternator pass all the test on a machine? Is there any other draws on the system? The only thing I am thinking is that durring a rain there are alot of electrical loads on the system that are not there normaly, so have the alternator out put tested..good luck
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    I just want to thank you for your contributions to our discussions. Your posts are very helpful. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I am glad whenever possible to be of any help. I have always wanted people to have a pleasant experience with there Honda`s. Thanks for your post.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I have 3 things to ask you about:

    1. My 2000 LX Coupe 2.3 developed an oil leak and had to have a new balance shaft seal at 1,000 miles. Have you seen this problem before on a new Accord?

    2. Am considering an Avital alarm with keyless entry (Diablo). Any thoughts on this?

    3. The Bridgestone tires on this car seem to ride rather harsh to me. Am considering going to the Michelin X-One to try for a better ride. Your thoughts?

    I have been a Honda owner for 16 years, this being my 5th Accord. Have had great luck in the past. Still have a 91 with 146,000 miles that my son will soon be learning to drive in.

    Mitchell Ray
  • wdcsupermanwdcsuperman Member Posts: 3
    I have an 89 Honda Accord with 160k miles on it that was working fine
    until the timing belt went. It has an interference
    engine. Since the timing belt broke the car runs
    very rough at idle ( the whole car shakes). It also
    has bad smelling exhaust. The mechanic and people
    I talk to say that the damage to the engine could
    run deep. Here are my questions.

    First is it worth fixing this car ( interior and
    car appearance is very good) if it means a rebuilt
    engine needs to be installed?

    Second what are the results of driving the car in
    this condition?

    Please help me figure this one out.

    I posted this under "Old cars when to call it quits" but then saw this discussion.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    1. No I have not seen any of those seals go bad on that year or that new. We see a lot of those seals on 1994-1997 accords. If it is fixed or going to be fixed then it is no big deal it is an easy job.
    2.I am not familiar with that alarm but do know I see a lot of pursuit alarms that are functioning properly so it should be ok.
    3.I love Michelin tires and do think they are a superior tire. However I don't know if they will make enough of a ride difference to make it worth the investment now.
    4. I think Hondas are the best cars on the road dollar for dollar so good luck with yours.Also good luck with the up and coming driver..
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    First things first, if your car is a stick shift then you are probably right in saying you have motor problems.If it is an automatic then I would have my doubts. I have not yet seen an automatic bend valves.Let me know if it is an automatic for further help.
    Now as far as is it worth it or not, thats a tough one. It is about $2,000 or so for a rebuilt engine and yes that is the best way. 2nd choice would be used motor. I dont recommend fixing the head unless you plan on re-ringing the lower end.So you have to ask yourself, what can I buy for the amount of money that I am spending to repair your car.Also you need to know what else you might need done to yours, so maybe get a go over to see.If it doesnt need much else then I would think it is worth it.
    3. Driving it in this condition can cause even more damage to the motor and possibly leave you stranded one night..Plus the vibrations could loosen up other components if it is that bad.
    good luck
  • wdcsupermanwdcsuperman Member Posts: 3
    The honda is a stick shift. I believe the car is in good condition. I bought it 2 years ago and had any minor rust spots and dings taken out and a new paint job. The exhaust was replaced a year ago, and the brakes were all replaced 2 weeks before the belt went. I am still learning about car maintenance, and I learned this one the hard way: Replace the timing belt every 60k! ( espically on an interference engine.) My other delima is that I now have a third child on the way and the accord is going to be a tight fit.
  • rtorrecartorreca Member Posts: 74
    I have a 99 Accord EX-V6 coupe. There's a rattle that seems to be coming from the moonroof when the cover is open. Also rattles coming from the dash and somewhere by the rear window. Also squeaks coming from the front passenger side. Worse on cold days. Now at 10,000, the breaks are starting to squeak. All this for a 24K car.

    I'm afraid to take it to the dealership because the last time they fixed a rattling sound from the dashboard, I saw some scratches on the side of it and underneath the radio.

    The most annoying noise is the moonroof rattle. Is there a quick adjustment I can do to eliminate this? What does Honda recommend?

    Thanks for the help.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    No specific known issues for the dash rattle or for the rear window. However for the sunroof the most common thing is the rubber seal drying out.The best thing to use can be bought at a Honda dealer and is called Shinitsu greese. It is a white lithium of sorts. All you need to do is apply this lightly to the entire sunroof gasket.Open the roof slightly in order to get it on good. Cover completely but not to heavy and wipe off excess.You will be surprised at this repair, I was.
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