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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
It fluctuaties with signal at stumble on acceleration only at initial take off. No missfire.
Manifold air pressure sensor was replaced.
Thank you very much for the information!
but i did notice a difference when i use different brand gas. i changed from sunoco to mobil and seem to be using less gas. i gas up every two days and is saving a gallon each time compare to when i was using the sunoco gas. (both regular unleaded).
I am using Chevron mid-grade (89oct). Do you have any recommendations for a better fuel?
MattPDX
AIM: MattPDX
mattpdx@hotmail.com
Does anyone know how to fix this problem or maybe we can organize to settle it down?
BTW: if I install an alarm keyless system by myself, will I breake the warrenty for those wires and parts I will work on?
Thanks!
As for the fog lamp itself, it looks great on the car. But in terms of added visibility, I don't know if it's because the dealer didn't aim it properly or poor design, visibility isn't increased dramatically.
As for the alarm, I initially requested OEM alarm. But I went with the "KARR" alarm learning that the OEM doesn't have a shock sensor, and that the aftermarket alarm would be warrantied by the dealer while in it's factory warranty period. I also had concerns about the aftermarket alarm voiding the factory warranty. Fortunately, I haven't mechanical problems with the alarm. The only problem with the aftermarket alarm was figuring about the various features and programming it. OEM is simpler.
BTW: Be careful about the dealer charging you unreasonable extra labor for installing the fog light switch. The fog kit doesn't include the switch. My dealer initially wanted couple hundred to install the light itself, and another couple to install the $20 switch that fits by the lighter. After consulting with their service dept, the sales people came to their senses and did not charge me the extra labor.
With regards to fog lights this is quite minor and OEM is a rip off. OEM or non OEM they make so little difference in my opinion over a spectrum of a cars I have driven. Go non-OEM so you don't flush money down the toilet.
My OEM alarm has shock sensor and even the hook. Dealer dose professional job but pricy.
Volume of air coming from AC/Heater vents is very low.
Have changed the blower fan with minimal improvement. Had dealer "clean" the vents with no improvement. Dealer said sometimes mice build their nests in the vents (interesting theory, but no improvement).
Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Car is a 93 Honda Civic EX Sedan 1.6 with 198,000 miles.
Volume of air coming from AC/Heater vents is very low.
Have changed the blower fan with minimal improvement. Had dealer "clean" the vents with no improvement. Dealer said sometimes mice build their nests in the vents (interesting theory, but no improvement).
Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks "
It is interesting that your dealer said that. I have been finding empty akorn shells in my car. As if a squirrel ate them and let the shells behind in the car. I can not figure out how would a squirrel get into the vehicle with a mouthfull of akorns and then get out. Is it possible that there is a hole somewhere? I checked the cabin filter, and it is intact.
JWF1, I would suspect a dirty cabin filter, but 93 did not have a cabin filter as far as I know. If you have vaccum controls as opposed to digital on the 96 and up civics, maybe the flap is not open all the way and defletc the air flow to "feet" instead of "face" or what not.
I can't even do that I've had to get mine towed twice in 2 weeks because it won't start and won't boost.
Honda denies that there are any problems with the Civics although I've been told by a mechanic that specializes in Honda that the newer models are nothing but problems. I had a 2002 last winter that did the same thing. They replaced it with the 2003 and everything was fine until the cold weather began again and now I'm having the same starting problems with this one.
Where are you located? Is it cold? My dealership told me that's why my car won't start. The temperature has been around -5 to -10 Celsius each of the 3 times this has happened.
Are there many other people this is happening to?
I am getting my 'check engine light' ON whenever I start my 1992 CIVIC hatch back. I also noticed that the car stalls due to reduced power.
I had been to the Honda repair centre and learnt that the rotor is wobbling and needs a $600- replacement.
Can any one suggest me a solution?
Hewlet.
I'm sorry you had so many problems, but the dealer scratching your paint and the windshield breaking aren't Honda's fault. We have a 2002 Civic LX Coupe with over 20,000 miles and have had no problems at all, including other than normal fogging of the windows which all vehicles do here in Indiana.
No I didn't. I'll say it again. I'm sorry you had so many problems.
Honda, the automobile manufacturer, is not responsible for damage to your vehicle caused by your Honda dealer. If the dealer was unable to fix the leak did you contact the Honda regional office at the phone number listed in the owner's manual to get Honda involved? Did you contact your state attorney general's office? I belive here in Indiana that the "lemon laws" require that a dealer take back or replace any vehicle that's been in for the same repair three or more times without being fixed. Your state may be, and probably is, different. And no, I'm not a lawyer so this isn't legal advice.
The rest of my post was to disagree with what you were suggesting, that all 2002 Civic's have a problem. My experience with my 2002 Civic has been completely different. And to answer your other question, No I don't work for Honda or any company affiliated with Honda.
Should I assume you work for Ford, since you're here telling us about your new F-150?
Take a deep breath and relax. No one was denying that you had a problem with your 2002 Civic. We were disagreeing with your assumption that all 2002 Civic's had problems.
JM2C
Sounds like a string of bad luck on your end.
1. What would make the temp. rise very rapidly without warning?
2. When engine has over heated the fan works intermittently. When engine is running at normal temperature, fan acts normal. Is the overheating causing the fan to operate incorrectly?
3. What will go first - the gasket or the head cracking, which is allowing the coolant to go through the exhaust system?
The engine still runs but loses coolant.
1. Can I make 200 mile trip with "check engine" light on? Any ideas about my problem with the idle?
unfortunatly this sounds as if you have a bad head gasket. But the best thing to do is to have the car presure tested to be sure as it could be a sticky thermostat or radiator problem also..
SRS Light
Do you know what code it was giving? If it was a power failure code you maybe able to reset the srs control unit and as long as the cars battery is strong it may stay away. In any case unless you have alot of miles on it I would also try speaking with CR or the zone rep to see if they could help you..If you know the code I could try and help more..
Erratic idle
Most likely a sticky fast idle valve or a bad idle air control valve. As for driving it as long as the check engine light is not flashing you can drive it with no harm being done..
This happens even at highway speeds and till maybe even 6-7 miles of driving. Any experience with this?
I had to slam my brakes on the other night due to an idiot with no working rear break lights. There was the gawdawful thunk thunk thunk noise...I HOPE it was my ABS working. I've never actually heard them engage before. It felt like the brakes were pumping very quickly to stop me. I figured it was the right thing to do...stomp and steer just like the manual tells you to do. I'm just worried that it could have caused damage. I hear no nasty noise from my brakes or rotors since. Should I have them inspected?
Thanks!
MattPDX