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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Unless I missed something, Honda manuals are not cooled by the coolant.
When they replaced the fly wheel and clutch, did the replace the main bearing and seal? How old is the oil in the tranny? How old is the brake fuid in the clutch?
My driver's side mirror and casing were smashed the other day. I bought the replacement part and just need to install it. Do I need to remove the door panel in order to install this? If so, where do I access the door panel screws to remove it?
thanks.
My driver's side mirror and casing were smashed the other day. I bought the replacement part and just need to install it. Do I need to remove the door panel in order to install this? If so, where do I access the door panel screws to remove it?
thanks.
If you have EX coupe then you may not need to remove the door panel. EX coupe comes with 6 speaker system. You just need to pop the tweeters, and the bolts are right behind it. Not sure if on others the triangle piece is separate from the door panel.
thanks
dan
Usually batteries don't come fully charged. You just need to drive long distance for an hour ot two to fully charge it, or just put it on a trickle charger overnight.
Define what is "this morning it has been losing power"?
thanks
dan
You caught it in time, you probably have nothing to worry about. Just replace the radiator and fill the cooling system with Honda Premixed Antifreeze/Coolant and you should be fine.
My 99 Civic EX sedan is doing great. Lately the driver side passenger door stopped working from inside. It will not open from inside, but can open from outside. Could someone please tell me from where to start looking to fix this problem.
Thank You
My 99 Civic EX sedan is doing great. Lately the driver side passenger door stopped working from inside. It will not open from inside, but can open from outside. Could someone please tell me from where to start looking to fix this problem.
Thank You
Like John said, it is the actuator linkage. You will have to remove the plastic plate from behind the handle, and maybe te door panel to access the damage. Usually it is the linkage rod that just pops out of the door handle lever. I have seen the back side of the door handle crubmle, but it was on a Chevy.
Fuel filter?
When was complete tune up done?
Thanks. Great Forum!
It may be time for the tune up, again.
Thanks. Great Forum!
20 mins for the car to fully warm up at idle is not bad. When you say the fans stay on, how long do they stay on for? do the fans eventually turn off? You may have an air buble trapped in the system, or you may need the fan switch replaced.
You may not have a problem at all. As long as the car is not overheating, you should be fine. If the fans never turn off (with A/c off), then you probably need new fan switch (should go in the lower portion of the radiator)
What kind of coolant did you use?
Not sure if it applies to 89, but Honda recommends using Honda Antifreeze only. Even though others out there look the same, trace amounts of silicates will ruin Honda water pump. Others use silicates as lubricants, but in a Honda, silicates act as abrasive.
Thanks
You may want to change the gas filter if that wasn't done before. Also clean or change the intake air temperature sensor and clean the throttle body.
Let me know if that does it.
I like the look of the 2004 rims. I'm particularly interested in the 14inch rims.
Thanks
If you are going to be doing the work on your car get a service manual Helms manual is the best, but at $70 is pricey (although it is worth every penny) Hayes is good too, and Chilton is probably the worst you can get.
i had a '94 accord that exhibited the symptom of the fan running even after the car was off - and engine cooled down.
i opened the hood, opened the relay fuse cover and noticed that the window up/down control relays were the same as the fan (on my model), so as a test, i decided to try the same hunch that the relay was sticking so i swapped out the fan relay for one of the window control relays...that seemed to do the trick, so i went to the parts store and got a new relay for $20 or so bucks.
The first thing i'd tell you to consider is this. If the car is already working, do nothing to it except get the alternator checked. If it is good and the battery is not good, simply replace it. Since you had the distributor changed already, I don't think you need to do a tune-up so soon. Simply have the oil checked or changed, whichever is necessary. The 90k tune-up would be only necessary if it has not yet already been done. I'd change the oil every 3K miles and have the tune-up done at 120k instead.
About the belts and water pump, change them only if there's noticeable oil leakinf from the front seals. Otherwise the work may very well be unnecessary. If you do have to change the waterpump, also have the timing belt and front seals changed at the same time. A $1400 bill is not to be expected. the prior one in my estimation was a little over, but close.
If the price included the parts as well, I might have overlooked something they put in, considering you have the bill and I don't. It might seem a little pricey, but that is money you shouldn't have to spend again for time to come. In my estimate, the water pump and timing belt and seals job could cost an average of about $225 not including the price of the parts. Remember that's a balalpark figure and not the exact price. But do that only if it is absolutely necessary.
With all done and a tightened the slack of the throttle cable, idles a little fast, feels like it is missing driving at 30 mph and still dies when making a turn both left and right.
Man, I wish I were in the auto repair business!!! What is done is done.
Your battery is probably just dead from sitting there. Batteries from the store are not fully charged and will drain eventually. Although 1 month is a short time, you may have some electrical drain, like a radio on, or something like that.
The timing belt and water pump at 90K is recommended maintenance. This is unrelated to your drained battery. If you say you "no" about cars, you should know that. Your Honda dealer will charge $600-$700 for the job. An independant mechanic should be able to do this for $350. I would probably say not to go to the guy who charged you $1400 for distributtor, clutch and CV boots. Clutch is a $300 job at the dealer, CV boots, not CV joints are $50 tops, brand new distributor from Honda is under $300. I doubt the place you went to was a Honda dealer, and I doubt they used brand new OEM Honda parts. You do the math.
As far as your insurance goes, this is exactly why Honda stopped selling CRX/Del Sol in the US, the insurance companies killed it. Plus, I don' t know your driving record, you could have had accidents and tickets for all I know.
Oh... What's the red light in the ECM for? It's not on but blinks on/off once when I start the car.
i have no expertise in the area of automotive electronics, specially w.r.t. ECM operation so i can't add much.
perhaps your dealer or an independant honda service shop might be consulted. they've probably seen your issue before and can help.
good luck.
Oh... What's the red light in the ECM for? It's not on but blinks on/off once when I start the car.
It is difficult to diagnose over the internet. There could be something that only becomes apparent when one is looking at the car.
You have to start the systematic elimination of components. Try disconnecting the temp sensor, and see if the fans stop. Try disconnecting the relay and see if fans stop. Try disconnecting one fan, see if the other stops. Try disconnecting the a/c clutch, turning the interior fan on and off. Try disconnecting the battery and let the computer earse any stored info and see if that works. There are so many things that you can do to get to the cause.
Have no clue what the red light in the ECM is for.
Should be somewhere on the valve cover. Trace a tube going to the intake from the valve cover, the PCV should be either in the cover or somewhere along the tube. If you still can't find it, spend $20 for a Hayes manual.
Hubby has a 1999 Honda Civic 84,000 miles. He's great with the regular upkeep & maintenance & we really have had no major problems until now. She starts right up but dies a block later. Starts right up again but, dies a few blocks later. This goes on for about 15 - 20 minutes of trying to drive. No warning that it's going to cut out, just does. Radio still stays on. My hubby spoke to a mechanic & he told him to replace the EFI Main Relay which we did. Still having the same problem. We've had this problem for a few months now & it doesn't matter what the weather is or how many times we've used the car that day. Happens almost on a daily basis.
Any clues to what is going on?????????
Thanks for your help
After just paying $2000 (this time) for these repairs, I was really hoping my :lemon: would run properly. Unfortunately, since I got it back from the mechanic, it seems to hesitate and jerk a bit when I'm accelerating especially when it's pulling a little harder such as on an incline. I have to gear down a lot more now than before because it just doesn't seem to have the power. Is this something to do with the fuel line, injectors or filter? I tried some methyl hydrate but haven't driven it yet since. Does this sound like a serious/ expensive problem? My muffler is also going, I don't know if this would effect it or not. I'd appreciate any advice since the mechanic I brought it to is four hours away where I broke down the last time.
1. Mechanic lied to you and it did not need head gasket replacement.
2. There is an underlying cause that has never been fixed
I had an 85 Civic with 250,000 miles with the original head gasket. I have an 88 Prelude with 130,000 miles and original head gasket.
Are all replacement gaskets from Honda or high quality manufacturer like "Mr Gasket?" or are they cheap knock offs? Is your car regularly overheating? Did the shop deck the block and the head before putting the new gasket on? It could be that the block or the head are warped and this is only a matter of time before you will need new headgasket. This could also be the reason you are having the symptoms you described.
Seems like gasket replacements are only a temporary cure fo rthis particular engine. For the $4000 you paid for two gasket replacements, you could have bought a high power JDM engine and transmission, or just a newer engine from Honda and had it put in.
I have a 1991 CIVIC with an 8 valve 4 cylinder (1.5 or 1.8 I think). It is burning about 2 quarts of oil every 250 miles. The compression is 130 psi on all four cylinders, which I think is good, and the engine runs perfect and has plenty of power. The spark plugs for the middle 2 cylinders are black and oily, the outers are a nice light brown. Oil is literally dripping from the tail pipe.
What could cause this? Could this much oil be coming down the valve guides?
Any help is appreciated.