Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

andrelaplume · May 2007

A year ago I was here ranting about the paint job on my white 2002 Camry. Every year it would get dirty and the dirt in the paint would not come off during washing. This is a common phenomenon on some white cars. Each spring I dreaded going out and trying to get the dirt out of the paint using cleaner waxes and Nu Finish. It would take hours. Well, last year, following some advise I gathered here, I dawned the car and then spent hours using my Megauiars cleaner wax and scrubbing all the dirt out of the paint. I then applied 2 coats of S100 wax. Thru summer and fall my car set outside as usual. We moved in the winter and by mid winter my car was in the garage for the first time. I noticed it did not look like as much dirt was getting embeded in the paint. This spring I took it and hosed it off at the car wash. I did notice areas where it looked like dirt had again impregnated itself in the paint. I pulled out my Meguiars cleaner wax and prepared to spend half a day removing the dirt. To my surpise, the cleaner wax lifted the dirt right off! I was done in an hour! I have to believe this is due the S100 wax I applied last spring. I plan on applying two more coats this weekend. It was worth every penny I paid. Thanks to all here!

lmacmil · May 2007

I have a 2 yr old tub of Meguiar's Gold paste wax. The applicator has pretty much deteriorated beyond the point of usefulness. Tonight I after waxing, it seemed much harder than normal to wipe off. It may be my imagination but the wax in the tub seems dryer than it used to. It is stored in an attached garage and although it probably never froze, it certainly got close to freezing on many winter nights. Should I just chuck it and get some new wax?

robr2 · May 2007

Yes

dudleyr · May 2007

I read the CR article on waxes, and noticed that they said no wax will improve the finish of a new car. I bought some of their top rated waxes, Black Magic paste, and Eagle One spray.

I tried them out on two cars. The Black magic did very well on my 2 year old Sienna. I tried the spray wax on my 17 year old Integra, and it does not even make the water bead. It did improve the shine, but not like the paste wax did on the Sienna. This is to be somewhat expected as the Black Magic was rated excellent for shine and the spray was only rated good.

Here is my issue. They reccomend using a spray wax on newer cars, but they rate the spray waxes as having a less shiny finish. I don't want a wax that dulls the finish, or causes swirl marks (My 2007 Accord is graphite pearl - not waxed yet- as I have been worried about swirls). BTW my Sienna is a light blue so it hides swirls better.

So it appears they feel the spray wax is safer, but if it does not give as much shine, then why bother as the car has a good finish now.

I am quite pleased with the finish on the Sienna, but hard to tell how it compares with the Accord when it was new - which was about as shiny a car as I have every seen.

Also does the Accord have a clear coat and how does that effect things?

tallman1 · May 2007

First of all, the Accord does have a clear coat. You have many options as to brands of wax to choose. To keep things simple, you really have a couple of basic choices as to type. There are waxes that contain polishes or cleaners, which you won't need on your new Accord. There is also the sealant choice, instead of wax.

A good wax will last about 3 months. Paint sealant will last about 9 months. You can sometimes make it last longer by applying a spray-on wax every time you wash your car.

You needn't worry about swirl marks if you use a good quality pad and make sure the surface of the car is clean. If you should get any swirl marks, a good polish will get them out.

You get most swirl marks when you wash and dry your car. That means you'll need quality wash mitts and microfiber drying cloths. The two bucket method works too: One bucket for washing and another bucket to rinse the mitt out before putting it back in the washing bucket. And stay away from car washes.

One thing is for certain, get some wax on your new car soon.

lv2drv · May 2007

My husband thought I was crazy to put wax on our new car. It does have a clear coat, but after reading many of the previous posts in this forum, I opted to wax it with S100. It's sold in Harley shops. Anyway, I find the bugs are much easier to get off. I didn't notice any difference in shine or anything like that, I just know the car is protected. And I know we are supposed to stay out of car washes, however, I've been several times. When we first got the car it was too cold-even into late April. Then we took a trip to Louisiana and the bugs on the drive down were awful. I promptly went to the car wash the next morning. If you have to use the car wash, I guess the key would be to not make a habit of it.

tallman1 · May 2007

And unless you specifically asked them not to... your dealer waxed your car as part of the dealer prep.

lv2drv · May 2007

Really???? I didn't think dealerships went the extra mile anymore. Am I jaded or what? I'm not sure they had time to wax ours. We bought it late in the evening and I think there were still some water droplets on it when we took it home. We live 2 hours from the dealership and we left with it that night. So, I'm glad I went ahead and waxed it.

dudleyr · May 2007

I think they did wax it at the dealer. The surface does not feel waxy anymore though. The freshly waxed Sienna feels extremely slick. Suppose it is time to wax. I think I will use the black magic that I have.

greasykid1 · June 2007

Have 2 black MB's . A 2005 and a 2007. Went over both of them with a clay bar kit. Then used Eagle One NANOWAX. That was about 2 months ago. Very satisfied with the results.About 2-3 weeks ago put on a second coat AND WHAT A DIFFERANCE! Outstanding shine. Had that wet/deep look to both cars.

Used the pad that was supplied to apply and then went over with Microfiber cloths. Complete job for each car took about 2 hrs. Used Maguires for many years but their products leave a white powder residue. Bad news for black. cars. NO residue with Nanowax.

tl_2007s · June 2007

I used my OXO Car Brush on wheels and it got really dirty. Edges of the brush are black and it won't come off with running water. Any suggestions as to how I can clean the brush?
Thanks,

jessreds40 · June 2007

I have seen Final Detail products on QVC many times and with huge raves. They also have a website. A couple weeks ago they did a presentation/demostration of the product on as Aston Martin. They did the Penny test.. when you place a penny on the hood and it stays... then they apply the spray wax and when they lay the penny down, it slides off with ease. Also I heard that you are no suppose was 6 weeks or 6 months before waxing? Is this rumor?
I am purchasing a new car this weekend and want to start out on the right track to keeping it looking new!
:confuse:

tallman1 · June 2007

Don't believe everything you see on TV. Personally, I don't think that spray waxes are the best for cars. I use one after I wash the car to keep the wax or paint sealant lasting longer but the spray wax should not be the only thing you use, IMHO. There are too many other choices for good waxes and there really aren't any short cuts.

You can wax your new car right away.

bretfraz · June 2007

A spray wax sold on TV is not going to be much different than a spray wax sold at Walmart or an auto parts store.

From what I can tell the makers of Final Detail are based in NJ and mainly produce cleaning products for home use, such as bathroom cleaners and products to clean hardwood floors and stone countertops. One of the guys involved is a pro detailers from Philly.

$40-50 spent on well chosen products at a well stocked parts store will get you started on the right foot. And I agree with the above poster, new cars are ready to be waxed as soon as you get them home.

jessreds40 · June 2007

Well I bought the kit on QVC; they sold me. It was only $30.
Well I will try all the products and let you know. If it sucks, I will return it within my 30 days. Only shipping to lose.
Jessicfa

john_324 · June 2007

It'll work just fine. It just won't be better than something you could have bought at Walmart, that's all.

These days there are very few wax products that DON'T work...it's just degrees of shine, longevity, ease of application, etc. that are different.

Enjoy your new car!

jessreds40 · July 2007

So far I have used the Tire Gel and it works awesome; Spray Wax is good- ..micro fiber cloth works great with it however once it gets damp it streaks. Wheel cleaner did nothing.
Average stuff I suppose. Probably will keep the products.

john_324 · July 2007

Anyone ever try Stoner's Beadmax? It's a spray wax that's (somewhat oddly) in an areosol can.

richinraleigh · August 2007

I have used Stoners Beadmax and Speedbead for a couple of years. They work fairly well, the ease of application is what I like best. I can wax my 4Runner in less than an hour, my SC300 in about 30 minutes. The shine is great, I always get complements on how my vehicles look. Seems to last too.

john_324 · August 2007

Thanks...appreciate the review.

I randomly tried Stoner's More Shine for Tires, and was amazed at how easy it worked and how good it looked...a glossy but not plastic-y looking deep shine, and no running.

So it got me thinking about their other products...I think I'll give the waxes a try. I'm not a "recreational waxer" so easy of use is a big plus for me...I'm more interested in driving than detailing my car.

richinraleigh · August 2007

I have used the tire shine as well and I like it more than the foaming products. I agree about the waxing, too many other things to do than spending a whole weekend applying different multi-layer products. About the only thing special I do is to clay the vehicles occasionally.

grampy1 · August 2007

Iv'e used Mequires paste wax for my other cars with good results. Is there any reason not to continue to do so with my 2007 Accord? Whats better?

tallman1 · August 2007

lol... take a look at past messages in this thread and you'll get lots of ideas of what might be better. Kind of like asking what car is better.

If it works for you, then keep using it. I'm extremely happy with what I'm doing. :shades:

fmichael · September 2007

Anyone know of a "decent" spray on wax?

I don't have the time (wife & kids) like I had several years ago to spend washing/waxing.

Any info would be great

tallman1 · September 2007

A spray-on wax will never give you the protection you need. You may want to look at paint sealants because you won't have to put them on every three months like regular wax.

I use a spray-on wax from Griot's Garage after I wash my car. It only adds up to a few extra minutes because you can put it on when the car is damp.

fmichael · September 2007

Yeah - I know nothing beats the paste/liquid wax that takes time, & a few aspirin when waxing your auto...Just that I really don't have the time; thanks for your reply - I'll look into Griot's Garage

blufz1 · October 2007

I wash and wax my car in 1/3 sections. It's not so much work/time and I can put 2 coats of wax on each 1/3. A second coat of wax really seems to deepen the luster.

fmichael · October 2007

Just over a month ago I purchased Eagle-1 "Wax-as-you-Dry" spray-on wax; took approx. 1 hr 15 min to my 2007 Edge...Must say is leaves a pretty good shine, & appears to leave a decent layer of protection on the paint...For what it's worth Consumer Reports rated it the highest of the spray-on waxes.

jipster · October 2007

I use Eagle 1 as well, nice shine and very easy and quick to use. One hour and fifteen minutes is a bit long. I haven't timed myself, but it probasbly takes 20 minutes to wax as I dry my Mazda MPV minivan. Probably a good idea to use a regular wax before the cold winter days set in and you aren't able to wash as often.

fmichael · October 2007

I tend to go heavy on the spraying, & need to buff after I wipe it onto the finish...That's why it takes me quite some time...Still does a good job

blufz1 · October 2007

Thanks. I tow a little rig bass boat with my V6 Accord so I've got more bug strikes/tar than most. I put 2 coats on in the fall and again in early spring when it's pleasant outside. Then on intervening washes I replace the wax on the front about once a month.

laurasdada · November 2007

Although I'm a Zaino fan for my Abyss Blue Acura TL, I tried Black Magic on the Evil Wife's Quite White (made that up...) Lexus RX300. Very nice, bright shine. I just applied the winter coat about 3+ months after the summer coat, it still looked good.

laurasdada · November 2007

Happy Thanksgiving to all! 60+ degrees in Boston today so before we headed out to relatives I gave the TL a Z7 wash (not enough time to Z6 after). Cleaned up the wash stuff and myself and the family headed north. Upon arrival at destination, I noticed that a rather large bird (probably a Turkey, revenge no doubt!) had decided to compliment the Zaino shine by leaving a non-color matching splatter on the hood. And, of course, it rained while we feasted at the in-laws. Bright sun at my home when washing, rain 30 miles north... And a Happy Turkey to you, Mr. Murphy...

beancounter · January 2008

It has always been my understanding that it is the paint that needs to be able to expand and contract with the changing seasons and temp extremes. Polymers do nothing to help the paint retain this ability. Only a wax feeds the paint with the necessary oils. Once the paint loses this ability to flex, that's when you start to see the problems of paint cracking. This characteristic was always a part of the advertising claims of many of the better waxes on the market. Not sure if it still is, but I've never seen a polymer make that claim. Today, it seems to be all about the shine, and what product lasts the longest. Maybe people should think "wax" if their main goal is paint protection, and "polymers" for shine protection.

I own a 2000 Merc Sable that has 216,000 miles on it, and has never been in a garage a day in its life. It sees all 4 seasons where I live. I have always used Meguire products, and the paint and finish look like new. (Just bought a new Ford 500, so I know what a new car finish looks like!)

phantomv · January 2008

New to the thread but have this to say. In 1986 I finally got a new 5 Series BMW (be careful what you wish for - a disaster of a car) after having owned several Hondas with no [problem. My insurance agent told me one reason comp was so high was that BMW's, Mercedes, etc. were more prone to vandalism. I "waxed" the car with Blue Coral Blue Poly.

On evening we went to the local mall. When I parked the car there were some kids nearby in a pick up truck and I had the "gut" feeling about somethig about to go wrong, but ignored it. WRONG. When we came out? Kids gone - but our Champagne colored BMW? Spray painted with black spray paint all over the hood, both sides, the headlights, windshield, trunk - there was not a body panel untouched. I was sick. Manage to drive home after reporting to police. Next morning I got some DuPont Simoniz Polish and started to try to remove the spray paint. With some elbow grease, it ALL COME OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was shocked to say the least. I HAD to give credit to the Blue Poly - and have used it ever since. Wrote to Blue Coral and complimented them and they sent me some of their other products to have for free. So, not only did Blue Poly give a great shine - it also protected the car from the paint penetrating. Would not have believed it if I had not done it my self.

oldfarmer50 · February 2008

I recently purchased a new car and I'll wax it myself when the weather warms up. In the meantime I'd like your opinion on hand wax jobs you get at the detail shops.

Is there any questions I should ask to separate the good shops from the bad ones?

There is a local car wash that has a detail shop who say they will hand wax your car for $59.99.

1racefan · February 2008

"Polymers do nothing to help the paint retain this ability. Only a wax feeds the paint with the necessary oils."

Synthetic protectants (sealants) also expand and contract. Companies like Meguiar's produce waxes, as well as synthetic sealants, and none are damaging to paint.

"This characteristic was always a part of the advertising claims of many of the better waxes on the market. Not sure if it still is, but I've never seen a polymer make that claim."

A good synthetic protectant isn't going to lead to paint failure. Otherwise, a company like Meguiar's wouldn't make one.

"Maybe people should think "wax" if their main goal is paint protection, and "polymers" for shine protection."

Actually, if the main goal is protection, most synthetic protectants (sealants) last longer than waxes. You mention that you like Meguiar's products. Call the phone # on the back of the bottle, and ask them what their longest lasting protectant is. They will tell you it is the NXT 2.0 (synthetic sealant). Typically, carnouba waxes look nicer on darker vehicles, but the durability is never as good as with a sealant.

94hawkskin · February 2008

We recently took delivery of a Metallic Blue 2008 GMC Sierra 1500. I washed it this weekend with Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo and when drying it I noticed a lot of waterspots. These waterspots are like black streaks in the paint. I couldn't get them off. They are only noticeable when you get within about a foot of the vehicle. Can I get rid of these spots?

oldfarmer50 · February 2008

I decided to try Mother's 3 step system which requires you to use a cleaner followed by a sealant/glaze and then carnauba wax. If I want maximum shine and protection can I apply multiple coats of either the sealer or the wax? Which would give better shine, more sealant or more wax?

tallman1 · February 2008

These waterspots are like black streaks in the paint.

Hmmm, like black streaks? Water spots are usually white or light tan. Where they on the car when you bought it?

You can try clay and then a very light polish to see if they can be removed. Put a wax or sealant on after that.

tallman1 · February 2008

Mother's 3 step system

I've never used Mother's but you should be able to apply multiple coats of wax or sealant. More wax would give a better shine.

oldfarmer50 · February 2008

"...More wax would give a better shine..."

Thanks. I went ahead and put an extra coat on the hood. I might also apply more to other high wear areas. The shine looks good so far but going over the whole car 3 times for this system is a lot of work. I think next time I might just try a clay bar and wax. I'm getting too old to be a detailing fanatic.

94hawkskin · February 2008

I didn't buy the truck, my wife's parents gave it to us as a gift. We got it last week and I washed with Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo and waxed it with S100. Everything looks good except for a couple of spots on the hood that look like waterspots to me as I couldn't get them off with the shampoo. You can only see them when you are right on top of the paint within about a foot and in the right light. They are like grayish to black streaks in the paint and are very faint in the right light. Probably not a big deal and maybe that is part of the METALLIC in the Metallic Blue paint scheme.

Will try clay next time I get ready to wax.

imidazol97 · February 2008

Is this a new vehicle?

I found that using a clay bar on my 9 month old still took a lot of rough stuff off the surface. It sounds like extra work, but it actually made applying the next layers of Mothers so easy, that I think it's worth it. The next coats don't require any rubbing as you apply them and take off the dried powders.

oldfarmer50 · February 2008

"...Is this a new vehicle..."

Yes, brand new. I didn't use the clay because step 1 is a cleaner. I figured that would do the job of the clay. Funny thing, if I run my hand across the hood I feel a little bit of roughness like tiny specks of dirt.

I didn't use the clay because I have never used it before (never even heard of it before coming here) and didn't want to screw it up on a new car. Live and learn I guess.

imidazol97 · February 2008

I had read on this discussion for years about using clay bars. I thought it was overkill for people who were neurotic about their cars. It was like those who debate over wax vs sealers and various brands etc. I was wrong. Old dogs can learn new tricks.

I did it with that 9 month old LeSabre and it was amazing. Just wash the car twice to really have the area clean and try it on one area and see how you can feel that roughness pull off with the clay bar and the lube which I think is just a simple polish liquid. Remember not to drop the clay bar and get dirt into it. And use part of the bar and fold it to keep the used area inside.

tallman1 · February 2008

You won't screw up a new car by using clay. I highly recommend it. Your "little bit of roughness" will be gone. I only wash my car once and then use the clay. Some folks like to wash the car again after the clay. Then you can apply the polish if you need it followed by the wax.

I can relate to getting old for all the work of applying wax every 3 months. I've found a great sealant that I use instead... once a year. I do apply a spray-on wax after I wash it though.

smokey75 · February 2008

What sealant do you use once a year?

tallman1 · February 2008

What sealant do you use once a year?

Here's a link. They have two versions. One has a small amount of polish and the other doesn't. They say it will last 9 months to a year. By using their Spray-On Wax after I wash it, a year works for me.

Griot's Garage Paint Sealant

stevenyc · March 2008

At some point over the past year water has dripped onto my BMW X3. It
got on the front windshield, passenger side window, moon roof and on the
paint between the moon roof and windshield. I believe the water got onto
the car when it was parked in an underground garage. It may have come
from pipes that were above the car or from the concrete ceiling and then
to the pipes. I did not discover the dripping for several days and I
cleaned it with Windex within a week or so but it did not remove all the
markings. I have since tried several other cleaners without success. The
marks remain and look like dried water drops on the windows. It is also on the paint but much less visible. You really have to look for it.

I recently took the car to the dealer for oil service and asked them
about it. They took it to their detailer and they were unable to remove
the markings. They said that it may have etched into the glass. I'm not
sure what if anything I can do about it. I was wondering if it could be
lime and maybe a lime remover might work. Are there other things I could try or am I out of luck?

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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