Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626 Troubles



  • I was going to put at least 2 new front tires on car also, maybe 4 all around . I will give that a shot first, before replacing any front end parts, although I do not think it will solve the problem .
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If it's making the noise turning the wheel with the car stationary, try this. Have someone turn the steering wheel while you reach in past the front wheel and hold your hand against the spring. If it's an upper mount bearing binding then releasing, you'll feel it through the spring when it releases.
  • Thx Alcan,
    I will try that tomorrow and let you know
    Peter :)
  • Alcan you DA MAN:)
    Thats the feeling I get from the spring so I guess it isthe bearing thats bad. Mechanic said bearing and plate . Does that mean "strut mounting kit". I see bearing listed separately, a mount listed, and a mounting kit. I do not see plate and bearing separately and am afraid of ordering wrong parts.
    Also is this a dangerous condition or can it wait for 3 months or 1500 miles max till I get back to USA and back,to get the correct parts?
    Thx Again
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hi Peter, t'was just a lucky guess. Without pulling it apart and inspecting the components it's hard to say what condition the upper mounts and spring seats are in. The component causing the clunk is the bearing binding then releasing, but if it's a '94 it's a pretty good bet that the seats and mounts are deteriorated too.

    Another option, order the mount kits and the bearings separately, then return the kits if only the bearings are needed. That way, you'll have all the parts necessary. Nothing more frustrating that removing the struts and disassembling them only to find that there are additional worn parts which you don't have on hand and which will require duplicating all the labour.If it was me doing this repair, I'd just go ahead and order the mount kits. Should include items 3, 4 and 5 as shown here:

    A note of caution, a spring compressor MUST be used to disassemble the struts for mount replacement or that mount coming at you at about Mach 3 when the piston rod nut is removed could be the last thing you see.

    Will also need an alignment afterwards.
  • Hi Alcan,
    My confusion lies in these 2 types of different sets sold.
    This is the strut mounting kit #L3033-151212 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Mounting%20Kit&dp=false

    and this is simply the strut bearing #L3035-103835 at the top of page and "Front Strut-Mate bearing plate" by Monroe not KYB at the same parts house (bottom of page )# TS902922. 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Bearing&dp=true

    The Monroe set has some more parts but does not look like the identical parts as the "strut mounting kit". The mechanic said bearing and plate but was a little vague and had no printer, he just showed me the parts on a computer.
    Does the Monroe set look like the right one to you? My guess is,that it is the right one and what is your opinion please?
    He said it was 2 1/2 hours labor and I believe they have the correct equipment to do it. I am not going to attempt it myself.
    Thx again
  • My Mazda 626 2002 V6 does the same. It always seem to hesitate when accelerating, and then all of a sudden take off as I let off the gas (should work the other way around). Lately it rattles as it accelerates, as if it is out of breath. I had chnaged the plugs only 5000 miles ago.
    I have seen others have had this problem. Any solution?
  • I have the same problem. Any thoughts?
  • First, the car (a 97 with a 5-speed, 4-cyl, 200,000 miles) jerks a bit on acceleration. The shop adjusted the clutch but didn't replace it, though they thought it might need it. Input, please?

    Also, my driver's side seat belt won't retract properly and, as it's the one in use 100% of the time when the car's being driven, probably needs to be replaced. However, I can't see a way to remove the trim panels without brute force and don't want to risk breaking anything. Suggestions, please?

    Carl Dombek
  • kk2482kk2482 Posts: 33
    If you are referring to the keyhole - all you need is a little lead to loosen up the latches in the keyhole. *This can be done with any malfunctioning keyhole* Contact your local autoparts store - they'll know what you need ;)
  • deyagodeyago Posts: 1
    My 2.5L 626 95' gets fuel and spark. Have checked injector resistance. Only code I get is 41 "VRIS 1 Solenoid Valve." New plugs, wires are good, distributor cap and rotor good.
    Gets good spark. Fuel pump passed jumper test.
    Battery, batt cables, and grounds good! Cranks all day just wont start! Please help!
  • kk2482kk2482 Posts: 33
    If I'm not mistaken you probably have a major problem with your alternator. I had this happen with my 97 Mazda 626 at about 110,000. I'm trying to narrow down which problem yours relates to. This I know, if it tries to start that tells you there is plenty of juice in your battery. [You'd know if your battery was dead because when you try to turn your key all you'll here is a click.] If you can here it trying to turn over this its not your ignition switch ... I think it's your alternator, possibly your starter? You can take your car to an AutoZone/Wal-Mart and they can pinpoint your problem. If it's your alternator/starter it'll be about $250-500 depending on where you go. I wish you the best of luck.

    Anyone have thoughts on this?
  • Happy New Years Alcan :)
    Well it looks like the old girl had no problem in the mountains since changing the MAF either. She had her usual power and even had a kick down at 75 MPH on an upgrade. Engine running like a top now.
    Back to my question in post #1933 above would you please look at the 2 links I have posted,because I am a little confused. Is the difference just the manufacturer, or are there different parts in the MONROE versus the KYB kit.They do not have the same name and I do not want to buy the wrong parts when I get back to USA, and then bring them back to Greece to be installed.
    Thanks again
    PGP :)
  • I am looking at Haynes manual and I do not see any 41 codes at all. Your car is a 95 and should/could have OBDll . Does it ? Also OBDll codes are 4 numbers usually preceded by a P.iN THE obd L RANGE i SEE A 411 WHICH IS Idle Air control valve or circuit. Who is getting the codes and how .Here is what manual says about your symptoms that you have not ruled out :
    fuel tank empty, leaking fuel injectors,faulty fuel pump,pressure regulator etc, fuEL not reaching rail, ignition components damp or damaged , broken loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit, loose distributor changing the timing,broken loose or disconnected wires at coilor bad coil, broken or stripped timing belt , defective fuel pump REL;AY AND OR HARNESS AT RELAY. HAVE YOU CHECKED THIS LAST ONE ?
    Hope this helps.
  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    Help - my daughter's 1996 626 ES has a burnt-out bulb in the overhead courtesy light and I can't figure how to open the plastic housing to change it. I'm afraid that if may break if I try to pry it open.

    It's really inconvenient this time of year, not having light when you open the door. Anyone have experience or a manual to help us out? Thanks...

  • According to the manual: interior lights are accesed by removing their covers and extracting the bulbs". The photo in book does not actually show removal of the plastic covers but shows them after removal and shows 3 bulbs "ONCE TRIM IS REMOVED" leading me to think there is no trick to removing it.
    Just be careful and try prying them off at the corner first would be my suggestion. The book also suggests disconnectiung battery or working with door closed so as not to have to handle hot bulbs. Ifyiou disconnect battry always disconnect negative side is suggested.If all 3 are out maybe its a fuse. Actually I would check for a fuse first in any event.
    good Luck PGP
  • mrkelmrkel Posts: 1
    What size tool do i need to take off the brake caliper. Is it a torx bit T-40 or a 1/4 hex wrench. I have a Mazda 2000 626.
  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    Thanks atx. I'll give it a try next time that I see her.

  • it is a hex but I dont recall the exact size
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I believe you need to squeeze the sides of the lens and then the plastic clips holding the lens in will pop out. If you just pry or focibly remove it, you may break the plastic clips.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have a 99 ES V6 5 speed manual with 134K miles. I had a hesitation problem when the car was relatively new (approximately 30K miles). The problem has been solved permanently by:

    1. Installing new spak plugs and plug wires every 60K miles

    2. Using only premium fuel (name brand like Mobil, BP). This car likes to run on premium fuel. You get better mileage and much better performance, so it comes out even.

    3. Using Chevron Techron injector cleaner about every 4K miles (one Bottle per 10 gallons of gas in the tank).

    4. Cleaning the throttle body and intake manifold EGR passages regularly. There are two EGR passages in the intake manifold just behind the TB. These will eventually get plugged with carbon and you get an "EGR insuffiecinet flow" trouble code (engine check light comes on).

    Every time I go to buy some parts at my local Mazda dealer, I hear people complaining about bad mileage, hesitation, poor performance. And when they ask about what fuel they are using , the answer is alsmost always the same: the cheapest 87 octane they can find. Take my advice: if you have a V6, it will perform much better on premium. Mazda recommends premium in this car. When you use the 93 octane in this car, the following happens: the engine computer is able to advance the ignition timing more before the knock occurs. The knock sensor is tied into the system and prevent the ignition from being advanced too far. When running this car on 93 octane, my fuel economy increased by 2 MPG over using 89 octane (never tried 87 in this car).

    I hope I convinced somebody to try this approach. BTW, replacing the spark plug wires every 60K miles is highly recommended in this vehicle. The reason is that this is double overhead cam engine. The plugs are located deeply inside the head between cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to extreme heat. As the boots degrade, so does the ignition performance. Use the OEM plug wires.

    At 134K miles my car runs like new, has very strong throttle response, even at high speeds. It is not enough to try 93 octane once or twice - use it all the time, do other things I recommended, maybe have your injectors cleaned professionally. You should see good results in a few months.
  • HI Alcan,
    I got lucky again and the Mazda guy here in Greece removed and pulled the mount apart, and happened to have 3 bearings that were the right ones. He said, and I was watching while they worked (very professional I might add) that the seat and everything else looked fine.
    Heres a case when catching something early saves time and money. My question is do I still need an alignment ?
    Thx again Pal
    PGP :)

    P.S.Car spinning like a top for the time being
  • How do I convert my Mazda626 wheels and tires that are 15' to 17'. Can the current hubs handle the modification or do I have to change the hub?
  • schnadschnad Posts: 1

    my Mazda 626 ( 2.0 i GLX year 95) didn't start properly this morning. The engine turned over, but switched off again immediately. After 5,6 attempts it started, but while driving it startles occasionally, but carries on driving. The idle is slightly rough and I have a funny smell coming from the engine. Any suggestions? I thought about the fuel pump, but then it wouldn't go at all.
    Thank you very much
    schnad :confuse:
  • I got a lease on a 97 mazda 626 like 2 days ago from a used car lot. god I wish I would have found this website before I did so. it was a desperate situation and I knew forign cars were good so I just went with my instincts. now i have to deal with this. what kind of preventative maintanance would you guys suggest and what should I do if the engine check light is on? also how can I craddle and take care of this tranny to extend its life as long as possible? its got a [non-permissible content removed] tran Im sure after reading these posts. what would anyone suggest I do to keep this cars life up? its mileage is 108k... sgould I get synthetic oil? also does this car need premium or is regulare unleaded gas ok? if it needs better gas then what octane lvl do u suggest? thx for all the help guys...

    need to keep this thing running for as long as possible.
  • whats the O/D light look like? what does O/D stand for?
  • Is the tranny auto? Is it a 4 or a 6? If so look into an Imperial or Hayden (SAME CO. NOW) or other brand plate and fin tranny cooler especially if you live in a warm part of the country. I would wait and see how much oil you burn because changing to synthetic or semi synthetic can cause problems in worn engines.
    Also read, read, read and get to know about similar problems in your car, that I hope you do not develop. Also a Hyanes manual at an auto parts store for $20 or so is a good investment IMHO. Also there are other good 626 forums to browse through.
    Best Of Luck
  • its an auto tran and a 4. yeah I think Ill just install some kind of cooling system for it..... I was thinking about a transmission filtering system as well... what do you think? any other modifications to my car to help keep it running would be appreciated. like are there any mods I can do to the other car parts to keep it running longer?
  • also how should I figure if I can change to synthetic or not? what do you mean check how much oil I burn? can you elaborate?
Sign In or Register to comment.