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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • johnlwjohnlw Posts: 28
    I posted on this thread back when we were having transmission problems.

    After changing the transmission on warranty, and not really trusting the rebuilt replacement, we finally sold ours to Carmax. It was a 1998, LX, 4 cyl. auto. Got a good price and (I cannot believe I am saying this) we are getting a more reliable powertrain in a Buick.

    How the screw turns. Ford/Mazda did not do themselves any favors by not improving this tranny. It is a great car but for that.

    Good luck all.
  • Back again. Thanks for the earlier help. Any help on this problem would be appreciated. A week ago ( concidentally day after an oil change at a franchise shop ), the power steering acts up. Mostly works fine, but occasionally no power boost, need forearms like Popeye to make the corner . . . next corner, power boost is back. Fluid level is marginally high, belt is fine, pulley is fine. Dealer rep says pump has a valve that may be sticking, parts guys says that pump doesn't have a valve. My usual mechanic wants to "start" by replacing pump and go from there.
    Any help in finding a Mazda mechanic in the Fort Worth Texas area would be appreciated. Any input from owners experienced in this issue would also be appreciated.

    Love to drive the car. . . need silver bullet to eliminate this issue so I can go back to dusting Camry's.
  • Had a similar experience in a Dodge. Replace it and make sure that you add Lubegard Power Steering Suppliment. Keeps temperatures lower, and reduces wear slightly.
  • A couple years ago my '95 626 started having transmission problems -- randomly shifting between 2nd and 4th gears and blinking OD light. I read tons of posts from people with similar symptoms who had to get the transmission replaced. I thought I was in the same boat. A long story short, turned out the range sensor was dead. Had it replaced for $180 (only $30 for part) and the tranny has been fine ever since. I also found that it helps to have the transmission fluids flushed completely. Since the flush, the car shifts much more smoothly.

    So make sure to check the range sensor before putting in a new transmission.
  • Just like everyone else here that bought a 4 cyl 626, I had to replace the tranny (89k). I had mine flushed and it blew about a week later. I later found out that it is a bad idea to flush a transmission with high mileage that has never been flushed before. The new clean fluid loosens up all of the gunk that was holding the piece of junk together in the first place.

    Don't kid yourself into believing that Ford has made improvements on this hopeless joke of a tranny. Its an unreliable piece of junk that should have never been put into ANY car! Shame on you Ford AND Mazda. Even with the ticking lifters, I still liked the rest of the car but alas, 0% financing hooked me in and now someone else is driving my old 626 and I am sporting around in a new Rodeo. Its the 3rd trouble free Isuzu that I've owned. I will never, ever buy a Mazda or Ford again! Remember what Ford stands for:
    Found On Road Dead
    Fix Or Repair Daily
  • Don't forget those poor people who are driving around the Ford Escape / Mazda Tribute time bombs. Here's hoping a CD4E that can't pull a little Mazda can pull a sport utility vehicle! Better hang on to that Auto Club membership! You're gonna need it!
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I would like to get in May a 94/95 626 in 5 spd. I found a few that look good, but I'm unsure about the transmission. I know there are HUGE problems with auto trannies. Does the same apply to 5 spd? What other things should I look out for?

    Thanx all!

    2001 PRO ES
  • At least, fairly few that are reported to fora like these. You probably won't get 100k out of a clutch, but you can buy a lot of clutches for the cost of one rebuilt automatic. The usual fourth-generation issues (valve cover gaskets, HLAs, CV boots) apply here.
  • ebaheebahe Posts: 7
    Hello board, I have heared a quite ear-full of Mazda transmission problems. All of that is making me nervous because we are about to close a deal on a 2001 626 LX V6 automatic. I have two questions, first does anyone know if this 01 626 LX V6's transmission is a Ford or Mazda? It certainly sounds like all the problems are from Ford's transmission not Mazda's. So if you tell me 01 626 LX V6 automatic is a Mazda transmission, I will feel better and may close the deal on Monday. Secondly, I have not read too many posts about 2001 626 LX V6 automatic problems. Anyone out there has problems with it? Thanks.
  • I have almost 113k on my '93 manual 626 ES and am still using the original clutch. I don't have a stop-and-go commute to work but I certainly do not get a large percentage of my miles on the highway.

    I've had other problems that I've mentioned here before (grounding wire to distributor let go while I was doing 70 down the highway) but no problems with the clutch - knock on wood!
  • I have 120,000 miles, on a 1991, mostly city driving. No problem with clutch. Biggest factor in clutch life in my opinion is the driver.

    ebahe. The transmission problems are mostly with the V-4, not the V-6. Still advise careful maintenence, drain and fill every 15,000 (30,000 if completely flush and replace with a synthetic) I also recommend the additive Lubegard, reduces tranny temperature and neutralizes acids. Can purchase it at Napa. I credit it with saving 2 of my transmissions, and 1 of my son's (the notorious CD4E on a Mazda 4 cyl).
  • The V6 has a Mazda Transmission. It's the 4 that has the worthless, pitiful excuse for an automatic. Ford needs to keep their stinkin' paws (and stinkin' parts) off of Mazda cars!
  • At what mileage should the timing belt be replaced on a 1999 Mazda 626 4 cyl 2.0 engine.
  • ebaheebahe Posts: 7
    Thanks for the replies. Now I know a little more about the V6. I really appreciate the advise of using Lubegard because we’ve had 4 cars in the past 13 years and this Mazda 01 LX V6 is our fist automatic car. We have to buy this one because our in-laws visits sometimes and they can not drive mannual shift cars. We have no knowledge what so ever about the machanics and maintanence of an automatic car. We have to learn how to drive this automatic car for a little while. One time in a rental car on the highway in California going at about 70 miles per hour, I attempted to shift, only been shockingly reminded that the clutch I pressed down was not the clutch, but the break. It was a scary moment for us the the car following behind us.
  • Mazda's recommendation is 60,000 miles, unless you live in California, in which case they recommend 105,000 miles (most likely because they were told to recommend that by the Assembly).
  • I am duly impressed with people getting 120k out of these things. Everyone I know with a 5-speed 626 (an admittedly small sample) wound up getting replacements at 80-90k. I can only conclude that people I know tend to drive as haphazardly as I do. :)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    When I forget to plug in the car in colder weather I hear this ticking for a minute or 2. Is this the valve lifters? Is there anything that can be done about this?
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    windowphoebe,if you can wait till Ought9 when our
    Freeport has 84K on the tripometer I'll be able to
    tell you how little if any problems I've encounter
    'cause I'm looking forward to the 3Digit Club!
    Thumbs Up U S A
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    Thanx a lot guys for your comments on the 626 5 spd! I really appreciate it. Now another quick question. How much do you get out of 1 tank of gas in city driving and how large is the tank? I get about 500 kms before the fuel light goes on in my current 01 PRO ES. How does the 626 compare to it?

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Sorry, I don't translate. We get about 300--350 miles per tankful running around town. Our usual mileage around town is 23-26, on the road 30--35 MPG.

    If tuned this car gets excellent mileage. (New O2 Sensor increased from 23 -- 26 on oxygenated fuel.)
  • It's the lifters. Use a Mazda filter and synthetic oil.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    That confirms my suspicions. Usually it goes away after a minute or 2. I can also avoid the issue by using a block heater.

    I recently changed to a 5W-30 4 quarts Maxlife/ 1 quart Synpower blend over my 10W-30 conventional. Haven't noticed any change.

    I am using a Mobile1 Filter. Is Mazda better?
  • i just bought a 1995 626 4 cyl auto trans couple of months ago. just recently i noticed that while parked in drive the idle is rough and when i accelerate the engine hesitates an almost dies but if i release the brake and allow the car to roll fwd a foot or so then step on the gas pedal it takes off fine. also during a trip i made last week the od/off light started blinking and has contiuned to this date also a light symbol looks like the shape of an engine came off and on during the trip this indicator light is located next to the high beam light indicator within the tachometer. i don't have a mazda manual so i don't know what this light is for. i would appreciate any help in order to fix these problems. thanks, john
  • They are probably close in quality but it probably wouldn't hurt to try a Mazda filter. Pure synthetic would get those lifters oiled up much faster in cold weather too. I had the opposite problem, mine would tick at idle if the outside temp was 90+.

    I also ran lifter flush thru the engine for 10 min. before changing the oil each time to get any gunk out.

    A lot of older MPV's have the ticking problem also. I've heard that keeping the oil changed every 3000 helps the ticking too, at least on the MPV's.

    I only run synthetics because of the superior flow in cold weather. It cuts down on engine wear at startup.
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    The Mazda oil filter has a valve inside which holds oil pressure better, thus the lifters are lubricated faster when the engine is started.

    Still running with original clutch on my 93 ES with 138k miles. Check engine light has been on intermittently due to oxygen sensor for the past 3 years, but still getting about 23 mpg mixed and close to 26 highway.
  • Both O/D Off and Malfunction Indicator lights? Now that's fun; you've got both transmission and emissions issues.

    Have the codes pulled, and you'll know from whom to request assistance: either MasterCard or St Jude.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    jskho- Good to hear that you have138K on the original clutch. We are around 95K and going strong.

    I had to have the spark plug wires replaced today as one had a cracked boot. Symptons were slight hesitation on acceleration. But the wires had been replaced at 65,000 miles by a Mazda dealer, they should not have had to be replaced again so soon. All my service work is being done by a local mechanic now. He told me if the wires had been replaced by him, they would have been covered under a lifetime warranty and replaced for free.
  • Autozone wires work just as well, cost 1/3rd the price and have a lifetime warranty so you can take them back if they wear out. Lifetime brake pads are about 1/2 the cost of Mazda ones also. I never go the cheap way out on oil and filter, but these items IMHO are close enough in quality to the dealer stuff to not matter.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Not true. Read posts 440, 450, and 460 in Transmission Trauma topic.
  • That post was for a GM car and he didn't specify what brand of wires he used. I put a $24 autozone set on the 626 rather than a $80 set from the dealer and they gave me 30k miles before I took them back and got another set FREE (they were still fine but I decided to replace them because I was doing other maintenance). I have bought plug wires that were junk and didn't last but in this particular case I felt they were very close in quality. I just wanted to post my experience for anyone else out there who doesn't want to blow all of their money on plug wires.

    I also looked at a set from Advance Auto Parts and didn't buy them because they looked too flimsy.
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