Saturn Maintenance & Repair

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  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    I have a 97' sc2. My problem only occours when the engine is up to temp. and I shut it down. After about 10-15 min. of sitting I try to start it and it just cranks and cranks with no luck, I let it sit for a second and try again, I t sometime starts but lately it catches putters and stalls out. The third try it starts powerfully like nothing is wrong. Sometimes it will have a weak start when I first start it up(cold engine). Please help I am pulling out my hair and have replaced all the easy logical parts to no avail.

    Could somebody please help.
  • geek3geek3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Saturn SL2. The battery died. I thought I'd replace it myself, after all how hard can it be?

    Well, I know this is sad, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the old battery out! It has this Delco "heat shield" thing that I have never seen before surrounding the battery. There's this piece of metal fastened to the side of the car at one end, and it passes through a slot in this "heat shield" at least half way across the top of the battery and below the heat shield. This is done in such a way that it would appear to be impossible to get any of this out without at least removing some other parts of the car -- is this correct, or am I missing something obvious?

    There's a nut just prior to where this piece of metal goes into the heat shield, but removing the nut accomplished nothing. I was unable to reach the nut that bolts the other end of it to the side of the car, and besides that really didn't look to me like something I should be removing.

    I easily unscrewed the two positive and negative posts and off come the cables, so they're all set.

    On the other side of the battery is the filter and a big hose connected to it. I even tried unclamping the cover over the filter so that I could move the hose out of the way to try to make room to pull this "heat shield" off. Still, I could only lift the shield up about 2 inches. It won't budge any further.

    Towards the front the battery is blocked in by a fuse box; I'm not moving that!

    And, I have no idea what butts up against the battery towards the back, and I'm not moving it either.

    Please help? I'm just a computer geek and am obviously not a mechanic, although I really think Saturn could have designed a simpler mechanism for holding in a battery (its not rocket science!)
  • akimakim Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 SL-2 (with about 58,000 miles) that's had a persistent overheating problem since April. Before the warranty expired in June, the coolant tank sensors were replaced. Then it overheated again less than a month ago and the dealer said it might be the coolant cap that wasn't holding the vaccuum seal properly so that was replaced. The service engine light came on again about a week ago (thought it might have had to do with a loose gas cap) and last night, it overheated again.

    I know it's been a particularly hot summer on the east coast, so would that have anything to do with it? What else could be the problem? Also, should I keep running to the dealer for guesses? I don't want this to develop into larger problems but I also don't want to keep spending money for potential fixes if the only thing I can really do is deal with each overheat situation as it happens (cool down engine, replace water/coolant, etc.)
  • wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    I've been battling this one for the last few months, and I gotta admit I'm stumped. My wife has noticed a pretty gradual drop in gas mileage for her 2001 SC2 over the last few months. It has about 103,000 miles, and usually gets in the 35-37mpg range on the interstate. About 3 months ago she mentioned her mileage was getting poor and her car was due for a tune-up, so I spent an afternoon giving it a once-over. I replaced the plugs and wires, air filter, PCV valve, and I removed and cleaned the throttle body and sensors (taking care of course not to get any carb cleaner on sensors). The fuel filter was replaced within the last 20k miles, and I change the oil every 3,000-4,000 miles. It burns a quart or so every 2,000 miles or so, but that's no big deal. I also ran a can of injector cleaner through it just before the tune-up.

    After I did the tune-up the car had a lot of restored spunk, and the throttle didn't stick like it did before. I thought this had solved the problem, but after she ran a few tanks of gas through it she reported back that her mileage was still getting worse. Well, it was time to change the tranny fluid anyway, so I changed that and the filter. Pulled the plugs to see how they were burning, and they looked pretty clean. Checked everything else and it all seemed to be in order. Car shifts smoother now, like it does every time I service the tranny, but mileage still dropping - now down in the 30-31 mpg range on the interstate.

    A few weeks ago I had new tires put on it - it was due anyway. I made sure the tires were all set at Saturn factory specs. I also checked the struts and they all seem good. I jacked it up and checked to see if the brakes were maybe dragging, and they're all fine - tires spin pretty freely, and CV boots are in good shape.

    Her last tank, with almost all interstate driving, was a whopping 27 mpg, and its getting worse! I changed plugs again out of sheer frustration - went with Bosch Titanium 2 plugs. Car runs the same, but I don't know what her mileage will look like yet.

    The car is in relatively good shape - a few rattles, but no noises under the hood. It runs smooth as butter, but when starting it while warm the idle goes up in the 1500rpm range, drops down VERY low, and goes back up to normal. Before I cleaned the sensors and TB it would die on occasion when starting it. Could the injectors just be dirty and need cleaning? What else could cause this?

    Any ideas? I can't for the life of me figure this one out! I'm at my wit's end, and gas is only going up!

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  • wof222wof222 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 1997 Saturn sw2 stationwagon. It also often fails to start on the first try after the engine is hot. Just cranks and cranks without firing most times. At times it will sputter a little but seldom starts unless I turn off the key and try again. Usually it will start on the second try though sometimes it takes 3-4 tries. When it does start it starts like nothing is wrong and runs fine.

    I changed the fuel filter which might have helped the gutless acceleration and hill climbing a little but did nothing for the starting problem.

    A Honda tech told me that Hondas sometimes do the same and that it could be the master fuel relay.

    If you figure it out please email me.
  • kandersonkanderson Member Posts: 1
    MY wifes Saturn just hit 40,000 of course just over warrenty and every single light lit up the dash and we lost power- doors, gauges-fuel and speedometer. Once we turned car off it would not start. Anyone have an idea of problem or have similar issues.
  • dabrot791dabrot791 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 97 Saturn SL2 with 150000 miles on it. The first five to ten minutes of driving, I have no problems with it at all, but then after that, the clutch becomes very very difficult to shift. To the point of impossible, you really have to start jamming it into the gear box. Some very mechanically inclined friends suggested and helped me to change the slave and master cylinders, which was a chore itself, but that didn't solve the problem. Now it doesn't even really need to heat up before becoming impossible to shift. Any ideas as to what it could be?
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    Check the O2 sensor. This problem has happened to me before and changing the O2 fixed everything. Also change the coolant temp. sensor located in the head on the drivers side. If this is bad the car will not mix the correct air/fuel and it will run rough and die on startup. I hope this is some help to you. Good luck
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    Change the clutch. That is the only other part of the system left to replace that I can personally think of. When you do it though change the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    and the pilot bushing in the flywheel, too.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yes, an 02 sensor, or maybe a clogged catalytic convertor?
  • wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    Both great suggestions! Since it runs pretty well right now I don't think it would be the coolant sensor, but if they're only a few bucks I might as well. She's taking it to Colorado for a few days next weekend, so it looks like I got some work to do this weekend! I'm running some Lucas fuel system cleaner through it right now to see if maybe the injectors are clogged, but I don't guess it would hurt to have a now O2 sensor on it as well. I think I'll probably go ahead and replace both radiator hoses - since they're both OEM with 100k+ miles on 'em - and the thermostat while I'm at it, and flush the coolant system. Thanks for the suggestions - I'll write back in a couple of weeks and let ya'll know how it turns out.
  • wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    I just looked up the parts online, and O'Reilly's lists 2 different O2 sensors for this model - a before and after catalyst. Does this model use both or just 1? And which one should I replace?

    Thanks again!
  • charlotte7charlotte7 Member Posts: 144
    I am looking at buying an '03 LW200 wagon. It has 12k miles on it, which is great. I'm wondering if any of you with '03s have had any particular troubles with yours or if there is something in particular to look out for? (I won't be buying it unless it passes a Lemonbusters inspection, even though it's being sold on a Saturn lot.) My boyfriend has an '01 LW200 and except for a few bulb/electrical issues, no other problems. I really like his wagon, so this '03 looks super to me.

    One question, though--I've heard that in later model Saturns you can't remove the bar for the cargo cover across the back. Is this true? Otherwise, it seems like it would be difficult to get any real cargo in there with the seats down.
  • whackerdogwhackerdog Member Posts: 1
    Ok dude, I had the same problem....In the front of the battery, meaning the front of the car, there is a plastic, ominous looking box with wires coming from the bottom. It is attached to a metal bracket that is hold your battery to it's base. You must take this bracket off, or at least loosen it. Do do so, you must take the black box off the bracket. To do this you will need a screw drive. Look down the side of the box next to the battery. There should be a plastic tab that is part of the plastic box and a space to put the screw drive to wedge the plastic tab free from the bracket. Once it has cleared the bracket you can pull the box off. You might need some help from your screwdriver because the guides at the side of the plastic box that the metal bracket slides into are tight. You will need a fairly large flat head screwdrive to do this. Hope this helps
  • riftzm2003riftzm2003 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Saturn SL2 with 184k+ miles on it. I've kept up with all maintenance, and have never had any problems whatsoever with my car. Aside from wear and tear; like breaks, spark plugs, and a cracked resinator from when I ran over a nice sized black of ice (Heh. Oops?). My car runs nice and smooth, and still gets 38 MPG Hwy, and about 28 - 30 MPG City. The only gas I will buy is from Chevron, because their fuel has Techron in it. I tried Shell's V-Power, and my gas milage seemed to fall. Went back to Chevron gas, and it went back to normal. Everytime I get gas, I get it when my gas light comes on; when I fill up, I alternate between Fuel Injector Cleaner, Octane Booster, etc (I love the Octane boost!). I think it's funny, too... I read in a few car magazines that the 2000 SL2 goes from 0 - 60 in 11 seconds. Laff... I've done it much faster than that, and have drag raced a few cars that SHOULD have won. It's possible that I may have been one of the few people that didn't buy a lemon; who knows. All I can say, is I'm happy with my little plastic "Beast."

    Never had any problems with the Saturn company, either. Although, I've never had a problem with my car yet. I'm sure I'm due, and I'm sure that when I do have some problems, I'll get the run around.

    I was also considering buying the Saturn ION Redline when it came out and throwing a body kit and some engine mods. I think it'd look pretty bad [non-permissible content removed] with what I have in mind. :P Never thought I'd throw a body kit on a Saturn, but hey... Why not? Lol. :D
  • wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    Looks like this car has both pre- and post-catalytic O2 sensors. I replaced the coolant temp (ECTS) and the pre-cat O2 sensors last night, and it seems to run smoother. When I pulled the ECTS I noticed a definite crack in the plastic bulb and it was filled with coolant. I'm pretty sure this was the problem, but I won't know for sure until we run through this tank.

    I filled it up with gas this morning, so we'll see if that helped. I may also replace the post-cat O2 sensor this weekend when I'm under there changing the oil.

    Thanks ya'll for the help!
  • guidry3guidry3 Member Posts: 9
    I am wondering if anyone out there has had their brakes go out on their
    97 SL2. I did and the car was a total loss. But the strange thing is they were
    partly working the next day. I am currently being sued for this accident and
    any info would be helpful.
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    The same thing happened to me in my 97' SC2. Luckily enough it was in a parking lot and the brakes caught before I went in front of a semi. I was about 200 feet away from a Pep Boys and they fixed it. Before I was bent over and shafted on the $300.00 labor charge I was told that the back brakes were dragging and boiled the brake fluid causing the system to fail. This may very well be the problem that caused your accident. Did you smell anything funny or notice your car acting weird? I did and did not know what the hell it was till it was far too late. I hope everything works out and the person with the "hurt neck" comes to there senses. Good luck.
  • guidry3guidry3 Member Posts: 9
    As a matter of fact i do recall a strange smell when i lifted the hood at the
    accident scene to check the brake fluid. Of course it was full. I did'nt notice
    if the rear brakes were dragging or not, my 15 year old son was driving at
    the time. ( i was with him of course ). He did mention recently that the brakes
    felt kind of soft just before the accident. Thanks for the response.
  • bb130546bb130546 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, Saturnpro360,

    you sound very professional, and I would be happy if you could answer another question on this subject.

    I have the same transmission problem on my 96 Saturn (with 86.000 mileage) as stated above.
    Referring to your quote: If it happens only when hot, then the valve body will require replacement and the end cover will have to come off so the Input and out put shaft nuts can be replaced." If I would replace the Input and Output shaft nuts, would this possibly solve the problem of the alignment of the Valve Body? I am not sure if the Valve Body even needs to be replaced. Could the misalignment of the Input/Output Shaft on the Valve Body cause the transmission to malfunction.

    I look forward to hearing from you!
    Regards, Bill
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    128,000 miles on the car, any suggestions as what it could be.
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    If the brakes feel soft, unresponsive, and spongy you have a over heated brake fluid problem. Check this out as it may help in your lawsuit. Take lots of pictures and keep detailed records. Trust me I almost lost my life to a stupid drunk driver and the records and bills can get away from you if your not careful. I wish you the best of luck.
  • dceadcea Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem very similar to yours on my 2000 LS2 Saturn (V6).Intermittent starting problem (mostly when cold) and DTC PO1779 and PO1791. Security,check engine,reduce power and service engine lights came on.It will not start at all now. If anyone else has had this problem,please advise on solution(s).
  • goose65goose65 Member Posts: 1
    Phaturn:

    My niece is having a similar problem with a 2003 L200 sedan with no moon roof.

    The side bolsters on both front seats and the bottom cushion of the back seat get wet and soaked after a considerable rainfall. The floor and trunk are dry, as is the ceiling panel.

    The local Saturn dealer checked the third break light assembly and the antenna that sits above. No leaking was encountered. The dealer says this area can sometimes lead to water leakage. This dealer also did a "soaking" test with a high pressure hose to try and duplicate the problem, but no leaks were encountered.

    If you hear anything more, I would appreciate any information you may have to solve this problem.

    goose65
  • wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    My wife had a similar problem with her 2001 SC2 - every time it would rain her trunk would fill up with water. I took it in for warranty repair and they said that a gasket in the roof was leaking, and it didn't take 'em long to get it fixed. Another thing they mentioned was that the SC2 models usually only had those gaskets if they had a sunroof, which hers doesn't. Kinda odd, but I guess they have to put it in all of them so it's easier to install a sunroof later? I dunno. Also, I believe it only happened while driving, so the sitting-still-pressure-hose test may not be reliable. You might mention that to the dealer and see what they say. I don't know if the backseat and/or rear deck were getting wet or not - we don't sit back there. We use my pickup for that ;)
  • wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    Check out this website - http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/

    They have a search feature for complaints on specific vehicles that they use for recalls and investigations. I always search this before I buy a new vehicle so I know what to look for if it's used, but it could be a great tool to use for your lawsuit...
  • guidry3guidry3 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info. I got some good ammo for the lawyers from the site you
    gave me. There were 5 complaints about complete brake failure. Sounds like to
    me this person should be going after Saturn.
  • bainbridgebainbridge Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 SC1 that usually runs fine, but recently after driving and parking awhile, it wont start after coming back after 30 minutes or so. But if I wait another 40 minutes or so (1 hour 10 minutes total), it will start. When it wont start, it make a single small click noise. This has happened 5 times recently out of about 20 times parking. The last time was odd in that I parked and then had to move my car forward a few feet and it started fine to do that, but when I came back half an hour later, it would not start.

    I went to Kragan and they tested the battary and alternator and starter and told me they were all fine. The battery is only 4 months old.

    Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
    Thanks
  • tpjtpj Member Posts: 1
    Web_dude:

    Will you give some of the symptoms you had on your Saturn with the defective BCM?

    My 02 L300 is experiencing several unusual problems which I believe is being caused by the BCM. All of the problems are intermittent, and no codes can be read with a diagnostic device. After removing and reattaching the battery cable all symptoms leave for a time. The security indicator comes on while driving; the ABS indicator comes on; the Check Engine indicator comes on; the lights flash very rapidly; and there are several other symptoms. Once, the wipers came on and they could not be turned off or other wise controlled. And yes, on one occasion it would not start. My 02 is out of warranty so I don’t want to be guessing incorrectly. TPJ
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Member Posts: 36
    subject--sticking cleaned throttle body--replaced all sensors po105 code map sensor light on--solution--replace transmission filter and fluid put cleaner in first then ran for a while Very dark fluid when drained was previously done by trans co. no evidence of any work done fluid was clear because not passing thru filter After change light off and not sticking except once in while when hot thermostat next would love to sue them Bob :mad:
  • jafsojafso Member Posts: 1
    I've read about a million of comments/complaints posted on this site, and I must say I hope I don't have these probs with my 2000 SL2. I picked mine up at the local salvation army auction for $307.00 and couldn't be more pleased. It has 67000 miles showing and the previous owner obviously did not believe in periodic maintenance. It had one hell of an engine knock, but with gas prices what they are I decided to gamble on it. I trailered it home and removed the oil pan and found two spun rod brgs. I installed a reground shaft, two reman rods, new rings and gaskets, and $500.00 later it runs like new. This process took less than 20 hrs. This is without a doubt the simplest vehicle I've ever repaired. FYI, I'm a heavy equipment mech of 20 yrs exp and HATE repairing wussy cars. Anybody with any engine knowledge could fix this thing. Anyway, the a/c,cd stereo work perfectly, and the 27mpg in town is great compared to my 02 Avalanche and my 88 full size Jimmy, so I'm happy so far. Gotta love those salvation army auctions.
  • eljefe54eljefe54 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 95 saturn SL1. at start up, it accelerates very high for about 30 seconds then returns to normal. it does not matter if it is the first start in the morning, it does it everytime at start up. it also does it when i put the car in park to turn it off - it accelerates high for about 30 seconds, then back to normal. ">i have replaced the air filter, pcv and hose, and checked hoses for any leaks.

    does anyone have any solutions???

    thanks
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    My guess is that you may have a vacuume leak somewhere in the system. What I do is to spray a little bit of starter fluid on the hoses as it is running and listen for the engine to rev up. If you do hear it rev then you found your leak. Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Starter fluid is highly explosive. Not safe. Carburetor cleaner, carefully applied, will do the job, but be careful of spraying onto sensors and other delicate electronic devices. There is a "sensor safe" cleaner as well.
  • eljefe54eljefe54 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the response. will this "sensor safe" cleaner maybe solve my problem or help detect the vacuum leak? products like - ZEP CARB-X Carburetor and Choke Cleaner Aerosol or STP Fuel Injector and Carburetor Treatment or maybe both?

    thanks again!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually all you're trying to do is ascertain if there's a vacuum leak, which will be sucked into the intake manifold. Carb cleaner makes the engine race a bit but anything that even made the engine stumble would work. The slick way of course is a smoke machine.
  • novuenovue Member Posts: 1
    This problem happened to me twice before Saturn fixed it properly. It was the Electronic Control Module. I was told that it was a "very difficult problem to diagnose".
  • bulldogsbulldogs Member Posts: 1
    Our 2005 Ion began making clunking noises before we had but a few hundred miles on the car, which was purchased this past April. This is our third Saturn ('97 SC still have, and 2002 SL1) and the first time having problems. The dealer changed the steering rack and within a week it was back for another one. To date the car has had three racks and it's starting to do it again. We are now in the Lemon Law time frame. The dealer tells us that Saturn does not exchange for a brand new one but a comparable one. We do not think they should offer a car with 8,000 miles on it when the problem began at less than 1,000 miles. Anyone having this problem also, please keep us posted. :lemon:
  • whiteb69whiteb69 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 SL2, when I turn on the lights the cruise turns off. Anybody else have this problem or know how to fix it? Also my hood release won't work, it doesn't pull far enough to pop the hood open. How can this be fixed?
  • mhall9150mhall9150 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a problem with the fan control: It only works on the highest setting. The dealer has replaced the control twice under warrenty (once at 40K miles, but reluctantly), and now I'm on my own. It doesn't seem that this should be a recurring issue... Anyone know what could be the real cause and solution?

    It also gets water on the front passenger floor almost every rain. Is this plugged drains for the sunroof? How do you clear them?
    Thanks...
  • sebertjsebertj Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my 97 Saturn SL2 with 150,000 miles on it (no real problems besides oil consumption) and as the car downshifted with the cruise control on it seemed like the transmission would not catch the lower gear and the the RPMs jumped and the cruise kicked off (nice feature). Car ran fine when i put my foot back on the gas then when I traveled about 20 more miles I slowed to about 35 and the transmission seemed like it would not catch I stopped the car and found that most of the fluid from the transmission had been spewed out ( on the undercariadge and rear bumper ) After I refilled the transmission with fluid the it would catch fine and run correctly but now it will make a whistling sound as the RPMs rise and the it will stop as the RPMs reach a certain point or when it is idle. I have not driven the car since this has happened any one out there with a clue at to what is going on? Thanx
  • amattieamattie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Saturn SL2, it has 172K miles on it. For the most part, the car has worked pretty great for me. It burns a lot of oil and needs an oil change almost monthly. In the last year though have started having lots of problems. I replaced the alternator and battery last year, had to have a total brake replacement last month, and now....
    The service engine soon light is on, code comes back to catalytic converter. In addition to the light coming on and staying on, when I turn the car on it may take up to 4 cranks to actually turn over. Sometimes it starts, then sputters, and dies. Other times it starts right up like there is nothing wrong. I have some loss of power, especially uphill (even small grades), and can smell a heavy sulfur smell when heading up a hill. The car seems to shift hard (manual tranny), and almost bucks when in 2nd and 3rd gear on acceleration.

    I seriously can not afford any more expensive repairs so if anyone can PLEASE (!) help me in figuring out what to do I would really really appreciate it. I just put in some additive to clean the fuel injectors (hasn't made a bit of difference) and am worried that it may be the fuel pump because of the starting problems. I'm no mechanic so please give some advice if you can! Thanks. :confuse:
  • bonedaddyalbonedaddyal Member Posts: 1
    This just occured on my 2003 L200 50k. These seem to be the circumstances leading up to the problem. When the car is warmed up, for some unknown reason all the lighting in the car starts to flicker on and off and the guages go dead. This is the dash lights, radio, headlights, taillights, ect. The car does not turn off. It does not occur first thing in the morning when the car has been sitting overnight. I checked all the fuses and they are good but they should be if the problem is intermittent. All the grounds I can find under the hood seem good. I can duplicate the problem in my driveway by letting the car warm up and turning it off. When I turn it back on the lights flash and I can hear and feel the relays on the drivers side kickpanel kicking on and off. I see in the threads issue with the bcm. Can anyone advise if this is something I can diagnose or am I at the mercy of a dealer? Could it be an alternator issue or battery issue? All responces are greatly appreciated! Al
  • 303saturn303saturn Member Posts: 1
    ok i know very little about cars heres my problem ...when i put my car into gear any gear it wont go any were at all no matter what and it does not stall out but i cant just pull it into gear i have to push the clutch in so i wouldn't think it is the clutch i have no idea at all if you know anything please help me out thank you
  • avsongavsong Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem. I went throught the whole gamit--O2 sensors, throttle, etc. After 2 mechanics, we found the problem: a leak in the manifold gasket. Air seeps into the system at inconsistent rates and makes the car run high during idle, acceleration problems, etc. After taking it to the dealer and replacing, the problem went away.
  • cntrygurlcntrygurl Member Posts: 12
    my 2005 quad coupe 3 waas making clunking noises to but the dealer said there was nothing wrong with it,since i bought the car in february its been to the dealer 7 times for the same tranny problem ,i also had it there for the passenger doors leaking water and i had it toweded to the dealer last friday cuz it sounded like a mack truck but once again the dealer said there was nothing wrong but now its leaking oil ,and when i took it from pa to va the car could just barley make it back home ,im in contact with saturn customer service now they said if the dealere doesnt fix it to call them back on monday ,sept.26th so they figure out what to do with this lemon ,also after the 26th my husband and i are going to file a lemon lawsuit to against them this car has 6,000 miles on it and this tranny problem started at 70 miles ,i also paid $60.00 to have a sunroof sunshield put on which the dealer cracked last friday ,my husbands 04 ion quad coupe 3 is leaking oil to ,his is a stck and i havea automatic .....i will never buy another gm car again there not made like they used to ...
  • evajoesavevajoesav Member Posts: 3
    :mad: I have a 2001 Saturn SL. I have never had any trouble with it until the past few months. It started out when I accelerated there would be a banging noise as it went through the gears. When I had this looked at they first thought it was the motor mounts because the transmission is being pushed back into the exhaust. These turned out not to be bad. We have checked all the brackets and they are all fine. Since then it has been alternating between the bang and a grinding noise. It is real bad when you put the car in reverse. I like this car but am getting to the point when I am not sure what is causing this and not sure if I want to keep driving it. I hope that somebody in this site will be able to help me figure out what this could be!!! :mad: :cry:
  • joomjimejoomjime Member Posts: 1
    I have two problems with my Saturn SL1:
    1) The coolant warning light flashes often, even though I replace the coolant when it does. I took it in a few weeks ago and got a (vacuum?) test done on it to see if they could find a leak. They said they didn't find any problems with it. Saturday, the light went on again and the temperature shot up into the red. I replaced the coolant but then it was all over the pavement within a few hours. I tried driving it again this morning (Monday) and the temperature shot up to the max within a few minutes. Any suggestions?

    2) There seems to be a disconnect between the accelerator and the (automatic) transmission. Often, I push down the accelerator up to halfway and the reps first go *down*, then rise slowly after about 5 or 10 seconds. This can obviously get dangerous when I'm pulling out into traffic. If I push the accelerator down quite far, the car will respond by jerking into a lower gear and raising the reps really quickly. It's almost like a horse rearing back. Quite disturbing. The shop did some engine tests on that too and apparently didn't find anything significant either. They did want to replace my shocks and wires for about $300 though because it might 'improve performance'. Thanks Firestone.

    Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe the two problems are connected somehow? Thanks!!!
  • dantheman13dantheman13 Member Posts: 2
    hey all...i have a question and i sure hope someone can help me out. i purchased my ion about 2 months ago and i have reach about 3000 miles and during the last week, the car has been sounding kind of loud and sometimes tends to sort of studder while idling. does anyone have any idea of whats going on? should i get her checked out at the saturn dealership becauses thats where i am leaning?
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