What happened to your mothers car does happen, but like any other damage from stones (broken windshield, headlights, etc) may never happen again. Honda is no different from every other car on the road. The condenser is in the front where it has to be for cooling. I suppose you could mount some sort of a 1/2" hardware cloth across the area open in the bumper, give it a coating of black paint first so you don't see it, that would probably stop rocks big enough that could do damage. Anything too closely spaced, will decrease air flow, and may cause other problems. Hmm, maybe something I should add to my 04 Accord.
I also have an 88 Accord, and I just lost my 2nd condenser over the winter. My failure is due to road salt, not rocks. Good luck
I put in a newer engine, newer transmission, 4 new tires, 4 new shocks/ struts/ new brakes, new coolant, new tranny oil. Now I use Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil. The old engine gave me 27 - 32 MPG until its last minute when I replaced it after it burned oil excessively. I used about 3 or 4 batteries but I just put in the second windshield wipers. The starter, muffler and paint, chassis, etc. are still original. It is a amazing car.
That's good to know. I'm having the same rattle from my driver's side B pillar (and perhaps passenger's side as well), and I think I'll take this info in to the dealer when I bring it in to have them fix it. My car is under warranty.
If anyone's had a high-pitched rattle coming from in front of the moonroof, what was the fix? I have that rattle too, as well as a few others.
Yes, since they are close to the ground, the red door reflectors can be seen for perhaps a half mile away in an oncoming vehicle's high beams and at least a half block away in their low beams (try it). This provides ample time for the approaching driver to react if they are at or below posted speed limits.
You may find that "The big red rear/brake lamp...", that you wrote of, will not be visible once the driver has removed his/her foot from the brake pedal and turned off the ignition & lights immediately prior to the doors being opened.
My mistake, I should have said "The big red rear/brake lense". If the other driver doesn't see a reflection from that lense (even without brakes/light are on), what is the chance the driver will see a 1"x2" reflector on the door when the door is open? Also, if Honda thinks it's there for safety, why didn't it make the same for the front door where it's opened often (by the driver)?
I also have a 2005 Honda Accord. My windshield does have a few optical abnormalities. None of these are in my line of sight, but I can see them more obviously on the passenger side. It is complex to manufacture one of these windshields, and I can understand why they are not perfect. Nonetheless, if you feel this is a safety hazard for you, then I would go ahead and replace the windshield. Typically this is only a few hundred dollars. I would talk with a windshield shop about this. I think they are able to replace the windshield without difficulty, and should be able to seal it fine. I would then write a letter to Honda explaining the situation calmly, and asking what they'll do for you. I would let them know that based on their response you may not be able to buy another one of their products, nor would you recommend their product to your friends. My guess is that they will try to help you. Good luck!
I just purchased a 2005 Accord Ex-L this week. I have never had a Honda. I bought a 2005 Civic for my son three weeks ago and I liked it so well that I decided to buy the Accord. Initially, I would have gone cheaper on the trim but I am glad that I went the Ex-L route. I love the vehicle. It is quiet. I have the four cylinder five speed. The sound system is really good. I have 300 miles on it but I am really impressed with the car.
Congratulations on your new Accord and Civic. I have been driving Honda (motorcyles and automobiles) for over 40 years and so happy with them. Now, I have 4 Accord at home. My top is the brand new Accord Hybrid 2005. I am planning to buy another Accord hybrid soon. No need to buy the Acura TL as the Accord hybrid gives me better MPG and so quick and quiet. I am sure your son and you will definitely enjoy your new Civic/ Accord. You made excellent decisions.
Check those tiny white reflector strips on the back of most sneakers. They work very well in alerting drivers to the presence of pedestrians and runners after dark.
Hi all! ------- I took a road trip over the weekend. Prior to embarking on this adventure, with my female companion, I purchased two small white pillows, similar to the type that might be used on a bed. I placed them on the seat portion of the leather seats. We drove for hours, and our bottoms were comfy, and without stress. So, I am proud to share this positive solution to the problem. If you want to enjoy a long drive, cushion your bottom with a pillow! ----- Best regards. Dwayne
Pretty hard to "void" a purchase on a 140,000 mile used car.
The buyer SHOULD have taken the car into a shop first for an inspection but that's water under the bridge.
It's 105,000 miles between timing belt changes on a 2001 Accord and I'll bet it's been done but maybe not.
A trained mechanic can spend a half hour by prying back the t-belt cover and looking at the belt with a flashlight. If it's the original belt, they can tell by the markings. If it's been replaced they can usually tell. If the person checking the belt has any doubts it would be smart to replace it along with the water pump and drive belts.
A compression or leakdown test would be a waste of money if the Accord is running well. These never have ring or valve problems. They can get carbon under the valves which will cause a loss of compression. We cure this with a "carbon blast". Strong solvents through the intake system will clear this right up.
Hi guys, my 92 honda accord has been giving me some problems lately with the brakes. i'll be driving normally and then my brakes will barely work!! my foot will be on the floor and the brakes won't work. this only happens on hot days and i think it's an overheating problem but i dont use the brakes in a way that would cause the overheating....is there any way to correct this ??? :confuse:
To be perfectly honest, its been a while and I had help from a buddy who knows a little more than I do about interior pieces. However, as I recall there are screws on the bottom and then, once we had the panel off, we had to pry (not cut or tear) the white plastic interior lining away from the door to get at the wiring harness inside the door itself. We wrapped all exposed wires with foam and used a tar-like glue (can't remember the name - my friend brought it with him) to glue them to the door where the wires were rattling against the interior door metal.
Make sure you remember to disconnect the electrical clip to the power window and lock switch before pulling the door panel too far away from the door. Also, as i recall we had to pull on the white plastic pretty hard along the line where it was glued to the top of the door to get it off intact. But the glue remained very sticky and we were able to put it right back up again when we were done.
My 89LXi has the same problem for over 2 years now, but it doesn't sound serious like yours. ONLY happens on the HOT days even when I don't use a lot of brakes. My brakes work normal when the car is running. When stopping at traffic light, the brake pedal sometime starts shinking. In that case I just pump the brake pedal a few times. Then it's back to normal. People thinks it's the M/C. I think it's either the diaphragm in the booster or the booster check valve. I will test the check valve first. It's an easy test. I will test mine soon when the hot days are here.
you might check the AT Selector Cable. Mine was doing something similar. Very tough to get in and out of park. Can buy online for $80 opposed to auto store at $160.
Not sure why but one day the door stopped opening, sealed shut. Locks still work but apparently the latch inside isnt releasing. Can't get the door open or tore open since it is shut. Anyone had the similiar problem or words of assistance?? deek01@yahoo.com for responses please.
I'm not sure if this would be related to the brake problem your seeing, but I ran into a problem with a loss of power brakes on my old Mazda truck. In the vacuum line going to the m/c was a check valve. The valve was sticking closed during hot days. This would keep vacuum from reaching the m/c, and obviously no power brakes. I took the check valve out, flushed it with some carb cleaner, blew it out with compressed air, and the problem never returned.
I think that is my brake problem, but the valve stuck open instead. That's why the pedal slowly shinks to the floor when I apply the brakes and hold the pedal down. Btw, the check valve connects the vaccum hoses between the booster end & the manifold end, not to the M/C. I will order a new one on-line along with other tune-up parts next week. Summer is almost here. Thanks for the info, Mr Bill.
I was wondering if you guys could give me some information on a clicking problem I'm experiencing with my 2000 Accord EX 4cyl (manual trans). On acceleration, especially when the engine is cold or the weather is cold, there is a noticeable clicking or rattling noise coming from the engine compartment between about 2,000 and 3,500 RPM. It also occurs up over 5,000 RPM (of course only revved up there after the engine warms up). However, in the summer (pretty much if the weather is above 80 degrees) it never seems to happen.
I have been to 3 Honda dealers who couldn't replicate this on their own but were able to hear the notice on ride-alongs. However, they couldn't find the cause of the problem. Even though the noise seems to correspond in quickness to the speed of the engine, they claim it's not drivetrain related but cannot identify the problem.
Has anyone else had similar issues or know of any documented problems similar to this one?
With power door locks, this may be a problem with a bad door lock actuator. It is not that difficult to replace the lock assembly provided that you have a service manual handy.
Hey everyone. I have a 2004 Accord Coupe EX, 4cyl, AT. It only have 6000 miles on it, and I bought it brand new less than a year ago. The problem is, my gas mileage is TERRIBLE. I mean, on the window it advertises 26/34, which I know is a farce. But I'm getting about 24mpg in ALL HIGHWAY driving!!!! When on the highway I typically travel between 75-80. Is this on par with everyone else? It seems to me that it's a bit low. I've already had to take this car in to have it's rotor's resurfaced because they warped, and I'm wondering if maybe I have something dragging on the rotors. The rotors should NOT need resurfacing after 6000 miles, and I do not drive like a maniac and do panic stops ever. I used to own an Acura integra, which I loved (and got around 30mpg's combined city/highway, but it was a MT), but this mileage thing is making me question the whole Honda quality image. Please let me know what kind of mileage you all are getting. Thanks
I have the same problem as you....I bought a 2005 Honda Accord 4cyl AT last month and it has 1100 miles on it.
Am getting 29 on the highway and about 18 mpg city driving. Just like you, I don't drive like a maniac and no panic stops either. The window sticker advertises 24/34 mpg. Am not even getting 20 let alone dream of getting 24 in city driving. I open the windows a bit so I don't often use the air-condition, but am still not getting any good gas mileage.
Infact I called the dealer today and am going to get the car looked at this Saturday....I don't know why this is happening and even though I love this car, am very disappointed with the gas mileage..... :mad:
I will let you know if the dealer finds anything......
My accord has a seasonal problem. In hot/warm weather after driving then letting the car sit for 30 minutes, it will not start. I either let it sit for a longer period or start it like its flooded and continue reving the engine to keep the idle up. It has been suggested it could be a vapour lock but I've unscrewed the gas cap and this has had no effect. Honda does have two related Bulletins. One is for the temperature sensor for the water coolant. Evidently this does not give a code. I still have to check the voltage on this to see if this is it but I don't think so. The second is for 2000 Accords for the regulator. This results due to the different gasolines put out during winter and summer. For this they say the computer and the regulator need to be changed. During winter my car will not have this problem except if the temperature is not too cold, it will idle rough for a bit on the restart. My problem seems to be time and external temperature related. Any suggestions/recommendations please.
I have a 04 EX 4 cyl. AT. I haven't done any long trips yet. I have tried resetting the trip computer, drove all highway miles for 60 mi at 70-75 mph, and the computer said I averaged 35 mpg. I also have averaged 29 mpg city/highway combined. I have a 700 mile trip in a couple of weeks, will be interesting how the mileage is for that trip.
The problem is, my gas mileage is TERRIBLE. I mean, on the window it advertises 26/34, which I know is a farce. But I'm getting about 24mpg in ALL HIGHWAY driving!!!! When on the highway I typically travel between 75-80.
Take the few days required to drive a tank at 65 or so and see what you get. If it goes up over 30, then it's something like underinflated tires or an impatient driver, not the car.
I just took a long trip in a 05 V6 at 70-80 mph, and averaged exactly 28.0 mpg for the trip. EPA is 30.
You will find that your mileage is significantly better at the speed limit, rather than at 75 to 80 mph. It's a matter of pure physics.
I average in the low to mid 30's in all flat steady-speed highway driving with my 2004 V6 AT Coupe. Hilly highway driving, with varying speeds, will lower those numbers.
From what I understand, you either have to live with it or get the mirrors replaced. The Honda dealer said the mirrors are glass, but it's certainly not scratch-resistant glass.
I took the car in to the dealer today for this as well as a few other rattles and other issues. They said that it was "normal noise present" and that it was the motion of the seat belt retractor bolt causing the rattle.
I raised the issue that if it was normal noise, why didn't it happen the first 2500 miles that I had the car? The service rep didn't have an answer. I'm bringing it back in on Friday because of a dent they put in the headliner today while fixing a rattle up in that area. I'm going to take in a printed copy of the post and solution and ask them to "humor me" and put some insulation around the plastic piece behind the B-pillar.
This is the third time I've taken the car in for interior rattles. It's wearing me out.
I purchased an 05 Accord Ex-L four cylinder MT a week ago. My first tank with combination of city and road driving--road driving 80-85. I got 26 mpg on the first tank.
'03 V6 with 80 mph on about 15 miles of a 45 mile one way commute. Rest on two lanes at 45-55 mph carrying 500 pounds of passengers. I get slightly more than 26 mpg on every tankful over the past 6 months. On long highway trips at 70 mph I get 29-30 mpg. Can't complain about mileage at all. Check your tire pressure.
I do not think you have a problem with this vehicle. You only have 1,100 miles on it, so at this point, the engine is not even broken in properly. If you add 24 & 34 and divide by 2, you will get an average mileage figure of 29, which is what you are getting on this vehicle. I would not be concerned about this mileage. Wait till you have 5,000 miles on the vehicle, and you have done your first oil and filter change, then calculate your mileage on a road trip. In addition, you might want to change brands of fuel, within the same octane rating, just to see if there is a difference. Also check the air pressure on the tires.--------Tanya
I bought a 05 EX I4 auto last month and do mostly highway driving...I commute 120 miles a day...so far, I'm averaging 33-35 mpg at 70-75 mph. One question I have is...are you calculating your mpg by taking the actual miles driven divided by number of gallons of gas used or are you relying on the trip computer?? Maybe your computer is off a bit...also, please excuse this - but are you sure you're in "D" and not "D3"...I too agree, check your tire pressure...
I own a 98 accord V6, my car died while I was driving, all power completely shut off. I had to pull to the side of the road and it took a couple of minutes to start again. This began to happen more frequently over the next few months, particulary at night time. I had installed an aftermarket CD player and thought that the CD player might be draining the battery. I changed the battery, which seemed to help and removed the CD player but am still having the same problem. Also I let the car sit without running for an extended period of time(after the power problems) and now idols at 1200 rpms in drive and reverse, and when it is in park or neutrel it revs from 1200 to 2000 rpms uncontrollably. Any ideas?
You will find that your mileage is significantly better at the speed limit, rather than at 75 to 80 mph. It's a matter of pure physics.
Good old wind resistance gets you every time
The EPA "highway" test is done at a simulated 48mph on a chassis dyno (no wind at all) and is "corrected" to produce a "Real world" number. So it is no big surprise someone going 70-80mph is not getting EPA highway numbers.
I open the windows a bit so I don't often use the air-condition, but am still not getting any good gas mileage.
In a modern, very aerodynamic car leaving the windows fully closed would produce less drag at highway speeds than running the A/C.
Most cars return worse mileage in the winter or cold months - part of this is gas wasted "warming up the car" . Likewise most cars improve fuel mileage as the new car breaks in after some miles.
The EPA numbers are just guesses, we all live in different parts of the country and put various blends of gas in out cars. For me, my commute into work is about 17 miles but takes about 45 minutes. The more sitting you do in your drive to work has a direct impact on your MPG for your "city" driving. Since you are getting 29mpg on the "highway", sounds like your car is doing OK. Maybe your "city" driving just involves more stop than go that what other folks have to face? How long does it take you to travel to work and how many mile? How long to get home?
My wife is getting 21-24mpg "city" commuting to work in her new LX I4 AT.
My 2003 V6 Accord is riding rather rough over the past several days. I just had the tires rotated (front left to rear left, front right to rear right, rear left to front left, and rear right to front right) on Friday. It was at one of those "Econo Lube" places that changes oil, filter, tops off fluids, inspects brakes, tires, fluids, etc. and rotates tires. Could the recent tire rotation cause the ride to feel bumpy (like a mini roller coaster ride)? Is this only temporary and once the tires start wearing more evenly the ride will feel better? Do I need new shocks? I don't see any obvious tire problems (e.g. flat tire). I have about 53,000 miles on my car. Any suggestions would help.
Did you check tire pressure? Set COLD pressure to what's recommended by Honda. Seems like the most likely reason for change in ride quality......Richard
How long does it take you to travel to work and how many mile? How long to get home?
It takes about 20-25 minutes to get to work and about 30mins going home and about 12miles each way. The speed limit is mostly 45, but I must admit I usually do 50 on a 45mph speed limit road. On average, I do 5 over the posted speed limit.
I called the dealer yesterday, and the service guy told me that even when the low gas indicator light comes on, you still have about 4-5 gallons in the tank, so if I want to see what the true mpg is, I should drive the car a little bit more - say another 80-100 miles before filling up.....can be scary I dont wanna get stuck somewhere, but I will give it a try, a VERY VERY cautious try.
Somebody asked how I calculate the mpg - basically I fill the car up with a full tank of gas and the reset the trip odometer. When the gas indicator approaches the 'E' (empty), I divide the # of miles driven by the tank size (17.1) per Honda specs. This may not always hold true as you read on......
So what the service guy told me makes sense (if it's true) that even when the low gas indicator light comes on you still have about 4-5 tanks and can still drive the car for a while.
The last trip odometer reading was 310 miles (gauge very close to 'E') but the warning light hasn't come on yet......and dividing this by 17.1 gives me about 18mpg.
Am posting this so if am calculating it wrongly, then someone can correct me and also if anyone can backup the claims by the service guy. And as Tanya, et al mentioned I will check the tire pressure to see if it's correctly inflated. My wife indicated last night she thought the tires looked a little on the flat side.
Thanks for your insight, and please keep'em coming. This is an awesome forum
I think that is likely it. I checked the pressures on my wife's new I4 LX AT this past weekend. Even the Honda dealer can't seem to get it right The door jam sticker calls for 30 lbs front and 29 lbs rear, if I recall correctly. Cold pressures on here car were MUCH higher than this - and we just got the car from the dealer. It should ride SMOOOOOTHER now
Somebody asked how I calculate the mpg - basically I fill the car up with a full tank of gas and the reset the trip odometer. When the gas indicator approaches the 'E' (empty), I divide the # of miles driven by the tank size (17.1) per Honda specs
There is your problem!
I thought everyone knew how to calculate MPGs, but I guess not
1) Fill the tank until the pump shuts off. Make sure it is really full and not a pre-mature "burp" of the tank (i.e. if the tank is near empty and it shut off after 6 gallons it is not likely full).
2) Reset the trip meter
3) Drive until the tank is near empty, don't worry about getting it really close to "E"
4) Fill the tank up until the pump shuts off - make sure it is really full
5) Note the gallons needed to re-fill the tank
6) Note the miles and tenths on the trip meter
7) Calculate actual MPG by dividing miles travelled by gallons used (e.g. 294.3 miles on 15.301 gallons = 19.2 MPG).
If the problem does not improve, one way to troubleshoot the problem is to have the rotation put back where it was, and see if the vibration goes away. You can also have just 2 tires rotated, take a test drive to see if that made a difference, then rotate the next 2. Basically a process of elimination.
On my old Accord, I had a similar problem after I rotated the tires myself. Turns out that one of the tires had a bulge in it. The defect wasn't noticable until the tire was put on the front of the car. Anyways, you could have a damaged tire, a tire that has uneven wear, or maybe even a bent rim. I have also read that a wheel thats over torqued can also cause problems.
The best way to figure your mileage is...1) fill up your gas tank, 2) reset your odometer, then drive. 3) when it's time to fill up again (you don't have to wait until the tank is empty - refill at 1/4 mark), make note of how many gallons of gas it took to fill up your tank and divide that number into the number of miles indicated on the odometer. Example: you drove 330 miles and it took 10 gallons of gas to fill your tank. 330 divided by 10 = 33 mpg...Don't rely on your gas gauge....use actual numbers.
I am having basically the same issues. I have a pop noise that occurs where the windshield and the dash meet on the driver's side. It usually only happens when the car is still cool and when I hit a bump. I also have a rattling noise in the driver door that is annoying. Let me know what Honda does to help you. My car has been in twice now!
That's exactly how I did mine. No need to drive to the 'E' mark and risk damaging the fuel pump. When the Fuel light comes on, there are still about 2 gallons in the tank.
I would start replacing the main and/or fuel cut off relay(s) first. Very common problem for the Accord. Replacing the ECM is much more expensive and may not solve your problem.
Comments
I also have an 88 Accord, and I just lost my 2nd condenser over the winter. My failure is due to road salt, not rocks.
Good luck
If anyone's had a high-pitched rattle coming from in front of the moonroof, what was the fix? I have that rattle too, as well as a few others.
Yes, since they are close to the ground, the red door reflectors can be seen for perhaps a half mile away in an oncoming vehicle's high beams and at least a half block away in their low beams (try it). This provides ample time for the approaching driver to react if they are at or below posted speed limits.
You may find that "The big red rear/brake lamp...", that you wrote of, will not be visible once the driver has removed his/her foot from the brake pedal and turned off the ignition & lights immediately prior to the doors being opened.
If the other driver doesn't see a reflection from that lense (even without brakes/light
are on), what is the chance the driver will see a 1"x2" reflector on the door when the door is open?
Also, if Honda thinks it's there for safety, why didn't it make the same for the front door where it's opened often (by the driver)?
Daniel
Congratulations on your new Accord and Civic. I have been driving Honda (motorcyles and automobiles) for over 40 years and so happy with them. Now, I have 4 Accord at home. My top is the brand new Accord Hybrid 2005. I am planning to buy another Accord hybrid soon. No need to buy the Acura TL as the Accord hybrid gives me better MPG and so quick and quiet. I am sure your son and you will definitely enjoy your new Civic/ Accord. You made excellent decisions.
Check those tiny white reflector strips on the back of most sneakers. They work very well in alerting drivers to the presence of pedestrians and runners after dark.
The buyer SHOULD have taken the car into a shop first for an inspection but that's water under the bridge.
It's 105,000 miles between timing belt changes on a 2001 Accord and I'll bet it's been done but maybe not.
A trained mechanic can spend a half hour by prying back the t-belt cover and looking at the belt with a flashlight. If it's the original belt, they can tell by the markings. If it's been replaced they can usually tell. If the person checking the belt has any doubts it would be smart to replace it along with the water pump and drive belts.
A compression or leakdown test would be a waste of money if the Accord is running well. These never have ring or valve problems. They can get carbon under the valves which will cause a loss of compression. We cure this with a "carbon blast". Strong solvents through the intake system will clear this right up.
my 92 honda accord has been giving me some problems lately with the brakes. i'll be driving normally and then my brakes will barely work!! my foot will be on the floor and the brakes won't work. this only happens on hot days and i think it's an overheating problem but i dont use the brakes in a way that would cause the overheating....is there any way to correct this ??? :confuse:
You have 2 options:
1- Replace the (brake) master cylinder.
2- Donate that car and buy a brand new Accord with a loan at 1.9% interest at Honda Inc..
I had replaced my 92 Accord's master cylinder a long time ago and I have given .it away years ago now. Good luck.
Make sure you remember to disconnect the electrical clip to the power window and lock switch before pulling the door panel too far away from the door. Also, as i recall we had to pull on the white plastic pretty hard along the line where it was glued to the top of the door to get it off intact. But the glue remained very sticky and we were able to put it right back up again when we were done.
Happy motoring!
-FS
brakes. My brakes work normal when the car is running. When stopping at traffic light, the brake pedal sometime starts shinking. In that case I just pump the
brake pedal a few times. Then it's back to normal.
People thinks it's the M/C. I think it's either the diaphragm in the booster or the booster check valve. I will test the check valve first. It's an easy test.
I will test mine soon when the hot days are here.
deek01@yahoo.com for responses please.
Just a suggestion..
Btw, the check valve connects the vaccum hoses between the booster end & the manifold end, not to the M/C. I will order a new one on-line along with other tune-up parts next week. Summer is almost here.
Thanks for the info, Mr Bill.
I was wondering if you guys could give me some information on a clicking problem I'm experiencing with my 2000 Accord EX 4cyl (manual trans). On acceleration, especially when the engine is cold or the weather is cold, there is a noticeable clicking or rattling noise coming from the engine compartment between about 2,000 and 3,500 RPM. It also occurs up over 5,000 RPM (of course only revved up there after the engine warms up). However, in the summer (pretty much if the weather is above 80 degrees) it never seems to happen.
I have been to 3 Honda dealers who couldn't replicate this on their own but were able to hear the notice on ride-alongs. However, they couldn't find the cause of the problem. Even though the noise seems to correspond in quickness to the speed of the engine, they claim it's not drivetrain related but cannot identify the problem.
Has anyone else had similar issues or know of any documented problems similar to this one?
Thanks in advance!
MrBill
I have the same problem as you....I bought a 2005 Honda Accord 4cyl AT last month and it has 1100 miles on it.
Am getting 29 on the highway and about 18 mpg city driving. Just like you, I don't drive like a maniac and no panic stops either. The window sticker advertises 24/34 mpg. Am not even getting 20 let alone dream of getting 24 in city driving. I open the windows a bit so I don't often use the air-condition, but am still not getting any good gas mileage.
Infact I called the dealer today and am going to get the car looked at this Saturday....I don't know why this is happening and even though I love this car, am very disappointed with the gas mileage..... :mad:
I will let you know if the dealer finds anything......
Good luck
Take the few days required to drive a tank at 65 or so and see what you get. If it goes up over 30, then it's something like underinflated tires or an impatient driver, not the car.
I just took a long trip in a 05 V6 at 70-80 mph, and averaged exactly 28.0 mpg for the trip. EPA is 30.
Since yours is a cross-post, here's mine:
You will find that your mileage is significantly better at the speed limit, rather than at 75 to 80 mph. It's a matter of pure physics.
I average in the low to mid 30's in all flat steady-speed highway driving with my 2004 V6 AT Coupe. Hilly highway driving, with varying speeds, will lower those numbers.
I raised the issue that if it was normal noise, why didn't it happen the first 2500 miles that I had the car? The service rep didn't have an answer. I'm bringing it back in on Friday because of a dent they put in the headliner today while fixing a rattle up in that area. I'm going to take in a printed copy of the post and solution and ask them to "humor me" and put some insulation around the plastic piece behind the B-pillar.
This is the third time I've taken the car in for interior rattles. It's wearing me out.
Good old wind resistance gets you every time
The EPA "highway" test is done at a simulated 48mph on a chassis dyno (no wind at all) and is "corrected" to produce a "Real world" number. So it is no big surprise someone going 70-80mph is not getting EPA highway numbers.
Dennis
In a modern, very aerodynamic car leaving the windows fully closed would produce less drag at highway speeds than running the A/C.
Most cars return worse mileage in the winter or cold months - part of this is gas wasted "warming up the car" . Likewise most cars improve fuel mileage as the new car breaks in after some miles.
The EPA numbers are just guesses, we all live in different parts of the country and put various blends of gas in out cars. For me, my commute into work is about 17 miles but takes about 45 minutes. The more sitting you do in your drive to work has a direct impact on your MPG for your "city" driving. Since you are getting 29mpg on the "highway", sounds like your car is doing OK. Maybe your "city" driving just involves more stop than go that what other folks have to face? How long does it take you to travel to work and how many mile? How long to get home?
My wife is getting 21-24mpg "city" commuting to work in her new LX I4 AT.
Dennis
Set COLD pressure to what's recommended by Honda.
Seems like the most likely reason for change in ride quality......Richard
It takes about 20-25 minutes to get to work and about 30mins going home and about 12miles each way. The speed limit is mostly 45, but I must admit I usually do 50 on a 45mph speed limit road. On average, I do 5 over the posted speed limit.
I called the dealer yesterday, and the service guy told me that even when the low gas indicator light comes on, you still have about 4-5 gallons in the tank, so if I want to see what the true mpg is, I should drive the car a little bit more - say another 80-100 miles before filling up.....can be scary I dont wanna get stuck somewhere, but I will give it a try, a VERY VERY cautious try.
Somebody asked how I calculate the mpg - basically I fill the car up with a full tank of gas and the reset the trip odometer. When the gas indicator approaches the 'E' (empty), I divide the # of miles driven by the tank size (17.1) per Honda specs. This may not always hold true as you read on......
So what the service guy told me makes sense (if it's true) that even when the low gas indicator light comes on you still have about 4-5 tanks and can still drive the car for a while.
The last trip odometer reading was 310 miles (gauge very close to 'E') but the warning light hasn't come on yet......and dividing this by 17.1 gives me about 18mpg.
Am posting this so if am calculating it wrongly, then someone can correct me and also if anyone can backup the claims by the service guy. And as Tanya, et al mentioned I will check the tire pressure to see if it's correctly inflated. My wife indicated last night she thought the tires looked a little on the flat side.
Thanks for your insight, and please keep'em coming. This is an awesome forum
Dennis
There is your problem!
I thought everyone knew how to calculate MPGs, but I guess not
1) Fill the tank until the pump shuts off. Make sure it is really full and not a pre-mature "burp" of the tank (i.e. if the tank is near empty and it shut off after 6 gallons it is not likely full).
2) Reset the trip meter
3) Drive until the tank is near empty, don't worry about getting it really close to "E"
4) Fill the tank up until the pump shuts off - make sure it is really full
5) Note the gallons needed to re-fill the tank
6) Note the miles and tenths on the trip meter
7) Calculate actual MPG by dividing miles travelled by gallons used (e.g. 294.3 miles on 15.301 gallons = 19.2 MPG).
8) Reset trip meter
9) Repeat steps 3-9
Dennis
On my old Accord, I had a similar problem after I rotated the tires myself. Turns out that one of the tires had a bulge in it. The defect wasn't noticable until the tire was put on the front of the car. Anyways, you could have a damaged tire, a tire that has uneven wear, or maybe even a bent rim. I have also read that a wheel thats over torqued can also cause problems.
the fuel pump.
When the Fuel light comes on, there are still about 2 gallons in the tank.