3K mile oil change interval is an " overkill ". 5K - 6K mile oil change interval is more realistic. I did lot of research on automobile maintenance too.
I agree with you. My accord service book states that 5K miles for severe short trip or 10K for highway/regular weather. I'm in NM so I perform my oil change every 5k miles with "dino oil". I'm not a mechanic so I follow my owners manual for schedule maintenance.
I dont know why when I bought my Accord 03 the salesman did not give me the user's manual and asked me to buy it and I did not. Now, on Honda website, they do not let the owners download the manual for accord 03. I do not know if Honda also sells owner manuals for model 2004, 2005 or give them free. When I bought the Accord hybrid 05 they gave it to me free. Anybody has any idea? Thanks..
I have always changed the oil in my Hondas every 5,000 miles. It's a convenient mileage interval and I've never had an engine problem in any Honda I've owned. I always use the recommended viscosity and have never used synthetic. For the most part, my driving is a 75/25 highway/city mix. Here's my track record:
1985 Accord 184,000 miles before being totaled in a car accident - ran great! 1989 Accord 196,000 miles before being totaled in a car accident - ran great! 1997 Civic 178,000 miles - still on the road - no problems 2001 Accord 96,000 miles - still on the road - no problems
Every new vehicle comes with an Owner's Manual. It's part of the price that you paid for your car. If the dealer did not leave it in the glove compartment that was a mistake and they should provide it to you at no cost.
They gave me a little one of a few pages (not a comprehensive big manual) for my Accord 03. But I have many Honda so I did not buy that manual at the salesman's request.
Definitely, a new owners manual comes with every new vehicle. They probably robbed yours to give to someone else. Sometimes people walk off with them. You got three keys didn't you?
Blane, I actually tried two different "Bug and Tar" remover products with limited success. The 3M product seemed to work better for me. Next time, I think I'm going to be more proactive about getting the sap off sooner rather than later.
I bought an 05 EX-4cyl AT sedan. I've only got 4500 miles...but I absolutely love the car. My only question so far is about low fuel warning that comes on.
Currently I'm getting about 32 mpg of mainly highway driving. I understand that it has a 17.1 gallon tank. When this light comes on, I've put about 425 miles on the tank. I fill it up and I'm only able to put 13 gallons in it. So I've really got 4 more gallons to drive on? Should I really be able to drive it another 120 miles before I run out of gas?
How many miles are you getting out of a tank before refill?
This just seems high to me because I'm used to driving a Wrangler that got 200 miles to the tank.
I think this is pretty typical (low-fuel indication before you run really really low on fuel).
Personally, I typically get the light illuminating in my 4cyl '02 AT Accord around 13->13.5gal used on an approx 17gal tank. With about 3.5->4gal remaining, I'm good for another solid 75miles. Its probably a good thing it comes on early for at least two reasons: 1) people don't always actively scan their dash-board indicators and you might not notice the light in the daytime with your peripheral vision right away, and 2). you really don't want to run a vehicle with fuel injectors dry of fuel. I suppose a third reason would be, depending on your driving mix for that particular tank, your MPG may vary appreciably from your average.
the conservativeness behind this alert mechanism seems well justified.
You might try leaving the driver's window down, locking the car with the remote (that sets the alarm "on"). Then reach in and unlock door by raising the door lock pin and open the door. If you open the door without turning the alarm "off" with the remote, it should go off. You can cancel the alarm with the remote.
Owner's manual should come with the car. If the dealer won't accommodate you, complain to Honda. :mad: I tried to find a download link for a PDF manual and couldn't find one for my 2004 Accord. I think Honda wants $50 if you order one........Richard
On my S2000 OEM alarm if I set the alarm with the button, it goes off if I open the door and start the car with the KEY. I found this out when the detail guy came to the office to clean cars - I just gave him the key and it set the alarm off.
In any case, the window down suggestion should be a sure fire way to test it. This would simulate what would happen if you park and arm the system then someone uses a "slim-jim" to open a door.
Why not call the corporate customer relations office and tell them the story that the dealership from whom you purchased the vehicle wanted you to actually purchase an owner's manual, and that all you received was a thin booklet (and provide the p/n of the publication you did receive)? Tell them you know the owner's link provides a downloadable / viewable version for the '02 model, and you'd really desire to download and print the one for the '03.
I agree user777. It's is better to warn you well before you go empty and it depends on your mpg as to how soon you will need to fill up. I just find it strange that I can drive another 2 - 2.5 hours before I'll truly be empty. Thx for the help.
The salesman is a jerk. He was supposed to give you the manual. I would have refused to take the car. I have to say that this is a new one to me. I have never heard of a salesman doing that. I would revisit the salesman and tell him that I would call Honda or a lawyer if he did not give me the manual.
(1) The consuming vehicle is a 2002 Chevy Venture LS with the 3.1L 184 hp motor. I bought the vehicle brand spankin' new in June, 2002 from a dealership in Orange County, NY that had located the car matching the color and seating layout I wanted at another dealership 19 miles away. The car had 23 miles on it when I picked it up. I am the only owner and, while THIS driver drives like a maniac, its my wife's car, and she drives very placidly and conservatively (if you're reading this honey, I'll be home for dinner soon).
(2) General Motors - NOT just my dealer - has published a TSB for the Venture/Montana/Silhouette minivans that says up to a quart of oil every 1000 miles is acceptable usage. One need not be a rocket scientist to recognize that, while a quart every oil change interval, for a motor over 75K might be normal for an American car, my consumption at a quart every 1500-2500 miles (depending upon hwy. vs. local usage) is much greater than that.
However, its a 5.5 quart system with a 7500 mile manufacturer's recommended oil change. Anyone can do the math at a quart every 1000 miles. My low engine oil light is coming on about a 1/3 of the way through my normal oil change period (~4000-4500 miles). There's simply no way, even accounting for consumption of the oil that remains on the cylinder walls in each stroke, that this can be considered "normal" consumption, unless of course you're a GM employee.
(3) I just sold a '99 Maxima GXE with 123,000 miles (hard miles - MY miles) to buy my 2004 Accord Coupe. It didn't burn a single drop between changes. Nor did the 1999 Buick Century that I sold in June, 2002 to buy the Chevy Venture (with the same 3.1L motor in it as the Venture) burn a drop of oil, even though it had nearly 70,000 miles on it.
(4) The oil consumption comment was made in comparison to something another poster said about Hondas and dealer professionalism. I think this is a great forum - lotsa people with really wonderful detailed knowledge about these vehicles. I'm NOT one of 'em though I try to pitch in and help where something I know comes by. However, if I may be permitted to say (and with love), you guys take this all too seriously and sometimes you scare me away from posting. Y'all need to lighten up just a little bit.
I happen to disagree with isellhondas (strongly) on a number of things he's posted, but I won't insult him about it - I'll just agree to disagree. This forum is an information provider that functions by consensus - the majority of you agreed with me - several of you offered good constructive suggestions - that's more than enough for me to figure out what to do.
All I'm really saying is let's try and be a little kinder to each other, OK?
If you are looking for another good reason for having the gas gauge warning light coming on a little early look at the fuel pump. When the tank runs low and the pump is not covered by fuel it can run a little hot. This may shorten the fuel pump's life. Refueling the tank when the light goes on may, in the long run, save you an expensive repair. This is how I rationalize accepting the light coming on early in my 04 EX V6 coupe.
> 5.5 quart system with a 7500 mile manufacturer's recommended oil change. Anyone can do the math at a quart every 1000 miles. My low engine oil light is coming on about a 1/3 of the way through my normal oil change period (~4000-4500 miles
I believe you're supposed to keep the oil level within a quart of the full mark. Letting the oil level drop so there is less than 4.5 quarts (as you cite) means the oil runs hotter since it's being recyled more rapidly.
>I just sold a '99 Maxima GXE with 123,000 miles .... It didn't burn a single drop between changes
I find that difficult to believe. There must be oil between the rings and cylinder walls and some of that oil is going to be burned. If your oil level didn't drop, it's most likely due to contaminants building the oil volume up to replace the oil it used. Slight amount of oil goes down the valve stems also...
>to disagree with isellhondas
I have found Isell to be staightforward and clear about his knowledge here. If I lived in his area, he would probably get a visit as I checked out value of a Honda instead of my brand of cars I currently drive. I've occasionally had a different opinion. But I respect him. He's been a gentleman even in the face of insults, overt and covert. He adds a lot of knowledge to several discussions I see on Edmunds. Thanks to him. And yes you may disagree. That's what makes the discussion interesting (but sometimes they get TOO interesting... grin.)
I think the "did not burn a single drop" phrase at this point is just a part of speech more than a statement of absolute fact. Besides, having to add a quart of oil every 1000 miles means you have a problem....no matter what anyone says is normal. That's a lot of oil being lost, and it's either being burned or leaked. Either way....not good. Seriously, that's a GALLON of oil every 4000 miles. Sounds real healthy to me.
What if you lost a gallon of tranny fluid every 4000 miles? Would you let anyone tell you that was even approaching acceptable?
Even assuming a quart of loss every 2000mi on avg (which is what he is experiencing), what if someone is following the normal maintenance schedule and waiting 10K miles to change the oil. They have lost over a gallon of oil by that point. Hell, why even bother changing the oil with a car like that, you will cycle through the old stuff soon enough anyway. So perhaps this is really a blessing in disguise, just remember to do the filter every once in a while.
Basically, I'm just sorry for the owner of that car....and the environment.
32 MPG on highway for your EX-I4 is very good. It seems Honda has increased reserved gas from 2+ gallons to 4+ gallons since the car has a bigger tank. Enjoy your new Accord. Just don't keep that light on too often. You may damage the fuel pump.
sorry if i am posting a question that has already been covered but i dont feel like seaching through 10k messages. my question is have any of you experienced brake problems with your 03 to 05 accord coupes? i had to have my rotors resurfaced at 6k miles because they warped and now have 14k miles and am not happy with the braking performance. my previous accord a 00 coupe 4cyl 5spd had no issues at all and did not even need pads until 71k miles which just amazed me.
While it may be recommended it certainly is not required. As many others on the board who change their own oil will atest, the crush washer can be reused almost indefinitely if care is taken when re-installed (not to overtighten). My wife's 90 Civic with about 30 oil changes done on it, is still on its original crush washer.
> "did not burn a single drop" phrase Stated as absolute fact multiple times. Sorry can't wiggle out of that one.
>quart of oil every 1000 miles means you have a problem....no matter what anyone says is normal. Even though authorities say quart in 1000 or 1500 mi is normal, you know that it should never be such? Do you think you can tell a car is burning a quart in 1000 - 1500 miles when you're following that car? Do you see blue coming out the exhaust while it's traveling down the interstate. Not.
>Seriously, that's a GALLON of oil every 4000 miles. And for normal driver that would be 4 gallons in a year of driving. Point? Isn't any. Not good debate point.
The point is if there's no oil on the walls and slight amount being burned off with the ignition, the car's running with dry cylinder walls. Not good for the environment either.
i'm thinking it serves two purposes. 1) to make a seal, and 2) to provide a pseudo-locking function to help prevent the drain bolt from backing out of the pan. 25cents is cheap insurance and i would think most DIY would and do periodically change it, if not every oil change, every few changes.
i admit to not being a DIY so my comments should be taken accordingly...
while 30 oil changes on your '90 with the same washer is very impressive and i presume it's because as you say, you've taken great care not to over-torque the bolt each time, still, i doubt there is much compliance left to the "crush" portion / function of the washer and anyway, most DIY and *perhaps* some technicians (specially pressed for time) aren't as careful and consistent as you are.
did you try looking into the condition of the PCV valve? i presume the Chevy engine has one... i'm told they are generally cheap to replace but also something that people have had success cleaning if you had to save a few bucks.
if it's not working properly - i've come to believe it could be a contributor to a higher rate of oil consumption.
In your post #10845 you wrote about your Chevy Venture van "My low engine oil light is coming on about a 1/3 of the way through my normal oil change period (~4000-4500 miles)". I believe that you are the victim of a common misconception.
The "oil" lamp in your instrument panel, if it is like those on just about every car ever built, is NOT a low engine oil LEVEL warning. It is a low engine oil PRESSURE warning. If you wait until the lamp illuminates to check your oil, you may be too late. The damage due to a lack of oil or low oil level may already have been done.
My GM products have a low oil level light and a separate oil pressure light. The low oil level light is not meant to be a reminder to add oil; that should be done to keep the oil at or near the full mark. So Hondalover may have a light for the level that your honda doesn't. That's a very useful indicator to have in the event of a loose or leaking oil plug or filter seal or a hole punched in the oil pan. You'll know oil is low before the engine is starving for oil at 75 mph on an expressway and the engine is run with no oil pressure.
I have a 99 Honda Accord EX V6. I have read all the msgs on the SRS and I think I am more confused than ever (could be a low battery, drivers side seat belt malfunction, SRS module need replacing.......). I brought the car to autozone to read the codes and only the engine codes came up. How do I reset the SRS light myself? As for the check engine light, the codes were P0401 and P0420 (EGR insufficient flow detected and CAT system efficiency below threshold). I cleaned the EGR value but the light is still on. I don't want to replace the EGR and CAT if possible but if I must I must. The car has a very sensitive ignition switch. I have to turn it very slowly to the #III position and let it return after the engine starts very slowly. Any suggestions?
The SRS light of my 95 Accord EX is always on. It costs $350+ to replace the circuit board close to the ash tray but I refused to fix it because the car is so old with the second engine. Honda dealer charged me $100 to diagnose it. Stay away from Honda dealers if you need to fix old model Honda to save some big bucks. I am not sure if I should fix it even though sometimes I feel unsafe while driving it on highway at high speeds. Bring your car to a good auto mechanic specialized in Honda electrical system they will tell you the problem with your SRS.
To test the alarm system, put the windows down or open the sunroof. Close all the doors and trunk and arm the alarm. Then without using the key or keyfob to disarm, reach inside and click the "unlock" button. If the alarm goes off, you are golden. If not...
Actually Blane is right. One is a "Change Oil Soon" light and is meaningless. Its an idiot light, ignited by the computer, on the basis of an algorithm that uses the trip computer, the average rpm's per mile traveled, the engine temp. and other data from the computer to assess when your oil's viscosity is becoming unacceptable. It is NOT based upon any actual test of the oil itself.
However, the other light, is the "low engine oil" light, which may, in fact, say "low engine oil pressure." That IS based upon real world data from your oil sensor. Its usually my wife who sees it and takes the car in and its been a while since I drove her car so you're probably right (I'm too lazy to go outside and check it). Its a non-difference though, b/c with a 5.5 quart system down almost 20%, the pressure is going to be off anyway, no matter what.
However, even when the light comes on, I get no metallic eggbeater noises or noticeable difference in performance. THERE IS NO BLUE SMOKE OUT THE PIPE - EVER - though it DOES stink like burning oil after a moderate or greater run at highway speeds. The intake manifold gasket was replced 9k miles ago under warranty. Of course, I don't wait for the oil problem to strand me somewheres - I or my wife have it serviced right away or add oil ourselves when that happens.
Finally - when I say "doesn't burn a drop" re: my Maxima, it was a term of art meant to say that the oil loss was normal and negligible - roughly a pint (maybe 2 if it was a hard use period) in 5,000 miles. One of you keeps trying to paste me with an unreasonably literal interpretation of my post. Yes, all cars consume some oil, particularly when they get older. American cars are more notorious for this than Japanese cars. However, my Chevy drinks oil like an alcholic at an Old Grandad giveaway.
Oh, and I agree that isellhondas adds value to this board - I just don't always agree with what he says. But that means just that - I don't agree - not that I think less of him or want to scare him away from the board - his opinion is still part of the basis for the consensus that I look for when I post on this site. Besides, I don't disagree with him about EVERYthing - just some things.
Anyway - I appreciate all the time y'all have devoted to my CHEVY problem, but t'aint this a HONDA forum?! ;-)
Thank you all for replying to my question. I went back and tried leaving the window open and locking the door with my remote. Then, when I manually raise the locking pin and open the door the alarm goes off. So it works. With this simple experiment, I noticed the following:
1) If you don't lock your doors after exiting the car, the alarm will not automatically arm itself. You have to actually lock the door for the alarm to be set. On my previous car, the alarm would automatically arm itself after 30 seconds or so after closing the door, even if I didn't lock the car. So, this is a little different (no better, no worse, just different).
2) I hadn't noticed this before (I have had this car for only a couple of weeks), but there are actually two red leds that blink. The only one I had previously noticed is the smaller of the two blinking red lights below the cd player that reads "anti-theft". I assumed (erroneously) this was the indication that the alarm was armed. Then just today, when testing the alarm system I noticed the second larger blinking led to indicate the alarm was actually set up.
In retrospect, the combination of 1) and 2) caused me the confusion. As the door was unlocked, I still saw the small blinking anti-theft led, which I somehow interpreted as the alarm being armed. But when I opened the door, the alarm wouldn't go off, even though in my mind the alarm was armed.
I have an 05 coupe 6MT with a little over 6K miles on it and I haven't experienced any brake/rotor problems but I've read other comments regarding others that have had brake/rotor problems... I'm keeping an eye out on my brakes/rotors - good luck!
You won't have brake/rotor problems unless you WAY overheat them by braking extremely hard and fast from high speeds several times in succession, and then going through a deep puddle or car wash before your brakes cool down to normal. That torture can warp any vehicle's rotors.
This is a non-issue for the vast majority of drivers.
"Stated as absolute fact multiple times. Sorry can't wiggle out of that one." Umm...actually no. If you had read the post he obviously wasn't stating it as fact, just a general statement about his Maxima. And since the poster already pointed this out (thus proving you are wrong in this case) I won't bother with any other detail about that.
"Even though authorities say quart in 1000 or 1500 mi is normal, you know that it should never be such?" For a modern passenger car? If so, then yeah..damn right I DO know it should not be such. That is way too much oil being lost. Who cares if I can tell a car is burning oil or not when following it on the highway. You can certainly tell if you own the car and check the level once in a blue moon. And you know what, a lot of the time you CAN tell when following the car. Next time a civic or accord buzzes by with a coffee can exhaust, take a whiff of what comes through your vents. Because about half the time (at least here in NY) you can smell how unhealthy the engine is. But for the record, that has nothing to do with the issue.
">Seriously, that's a GALLON of oil every 4000 miles. And for normal driver that would be 4 gallons in a year of driving. Point?" If you see no problem with losing 4 gallons of oil every year because of the way your engine is running you better be sure your warranties are in order my friend.
"The point is if there's no oil on the walls and slight amount being burned off with the ignition, the car's running with dry cylinder walls. Not good for the environment either." True, but that still doesn't account for the kind of oil loss he was describing...and that was the point that you missed.
You said :"Most text books advocate 3,000 mile oil and fliter changes" That may have been true 30 years ago. Check the publish date on the text books; it sounds like the text books you are looking at are out-of-date.
Current 4 cylinder Hondas have a "normal" oil/filter change schedule of 10,000 miles and a severe schedule of 5,000 miles. That is the texbook I would use. In your case because of a lot of idling you could possible go with the severe schedule of 5,000 miles. But unless you also have a lot of short trips, a more reasonable interval for you would be 7,500 miles.
I have Accord '97 (LX Sedan) with 90K miles on it. Whenever I try to lock the door by inserting the key, the door lock but there is a chaterring sounds for three seconds. Seems like some electrical relay is turning ON/OFF. anybody faced with this problem ?
I have the silver 05 w/ dark interior. My car is outside 24/7. Will tainting the windows help prevent fading? Where can I buy quality and nice looking seat covers?
I have a 2003 EX-6 Coupe, autom. The car was driving along fine, then pulling away from a traffic signal the engine started to race but the car would only go up to about 20 miles an hour, like the trans wouldn't "catch". I pulled over immediately and tried going again with the same results. After stopping again, I turned the car off and after making a call on the cell phone, tried it again. The car drove fine and shifted as normal thru the gears and I was on my way home and made it fine. Later went out and car drove normally until I stopped for a sign. Upon accelerating the problem happened again. After pulling over and turning off the car and restarting it I was able to go back home normally. At that point I just had it towed( car started fine and drove normally from driveway onto flatbed) into the dealer and they will run diagnostics tomorrow. Let me know if it sounds familiar or any thoughts. Thanks.
The most likely cause for warped rotors is improperly tightened lugs - nothing to do with the brakes at all. I try to NEVER let them get at my car with an air wrench - "torque sticks" or no. If they do, then as soon as I get home I use my long breaker bar to loosen the lugs and re-tighten them with a torque wrench. If I have a nail in a tire or something, I will often take the wheel off at home and run it by the tire store in another car. Then they never touch the lugs - and quite often don't charge for the flat repair since I carried in the wheel.
If you had your tires rotated or had a wheel off for a flat it is likely it was over-torqued or unevenly torqued when it was put back on. It could have come from the factory that way as well, but it is not as likely.
Comments
I thought it comes with every new car.
I dont know why when I bought my Accord 03 the salesman did not give me the user's manual and asked me to buy it and I did not. Now, on Honda website, they do not let the owners download the manual for accord 03. I do not know if Honda also sells owner manuals for model 2004, 2005 or give them free. When I bought the Accord hybrid 05 they gave it to me free. Anybody has any idea? Thanks..
1985 Accord 184,000 miles before being totaled in a car accident - ran great!
1989 Accord 196,000 miles before being totaled in a car accident - ran great!
1997 Civic 178,000 miles - still on the road - no problems
2001 Accord 96,000 miles - still on the road - no problems
Every new vehicle comes with an Owner's Manual. It's part of the price that you paid for your car. If the dealer did not leave it in the glove compartment that was a mistake and they should provide it to you at no cost.
I actually tried two different "Bug and Tar" remover products with limited success. The 3M product seemed to work better for me. Next time, I think I'm going to be more proactive about getting the sap off sooner rather than later.
Currently I'm getting about 32 mpg of mainly highway driving. I understand that it has a 17.1 gallon tank. When this light comes on, I've put about 425 miles on the tank. I fill it up and I'm only able to put 13 gallons in it. So I've really got 4 more gallons to drive on? Should I really be able to drive it another 120 miles before I run out of gas?
How many miles are you getting out of a tank before refill?
This just seems high to me because I'm used to driving a Wrangler that got 200 miles to the tank.
Personally, I typically get the light illuminating in my 4cyl '02 AT Accord around 13->13.5gal used on an approx 17gal tank. With about 3.5->4gal remaining, I'm good for another solid 75miles. Its probably a good thing it comes on early for at least two reasons: 1) people don't always actively scan their dash-board indicators and you might not notice the light in the daytime with your peripheral vision right away, and 2). you really don't want to run a vehicle with fuel injectors dry of fuel. I suppose a third reason would be, depending on your driving mix for that particular tank, your MPG may vary appreciably from your average.
the conservativeness behind this alert mechanism seems well justified.
That's way when you sell the car, the next owner has it.
If the dealer won't accommodate you, complain to Honda. :mad:
I tried to find a download link for a PDF manual and couldn't find one for my 2004 Accord.
I think Honda wants $50 if you order one........Richard
In any case, the window down suggestion should be a sure fire way to test it. This would simulate what would happen if you park and arm the system then someone uses a "slim-jim" to open a door.
Dennis
I agree user777. It's is better to warn you well before you go empty and it depends on your mpg as to how soon you will need to fill up. I just find it strange that I can drive another 2 - 2.5 hours before I'll truly be empty. Thx for the help.
(1) The consuming vehicle is a 2002 Chevy Venture LS with the 3.1L 184 hp motor. I bought the vehicle brand spankin' new in June, 2002 from a dealership in Orange County, NY that had located the car matching the color and seating layout I wanted at another dealership 19 miles away. The car had 23 miles on it when I picked it up. I am the only owner and, while THIS driver drives like a maniac, its my wife's car, and she drives very placidly and conservatively (if you're reading this honey, I'll be home for dinner soon).
(2) General Motors - NOT just my dealer - has published a TSB for the Venture/Montana/Silhouette minivans that says up to a quart of oil every 1000 miles is acceptable usage. One need not be a rocket scientist to recognize that, while a quart every oil change interval, for a motor over 75K might be normal for an American car, my consumption at a quart every 1500-2500 miles (depending upon hwy. vs. local usage) is much greater than that.
However, its a 5.5 quart system with a 7500 mile manufacturer's recommended oil change. Anyone can do the math at a quart every 1000 miles. My low engine oil light is coming on about a 1/3 of the way through my normal oil change period (~4000-4500 miles). There's simply no way, even accounting for consumption of the oil that remains on the cylinder walls in each stroke, that this can be considered "normal" consumption, unless of course you're a GM employee.
(3) I just sold a '99 Maxima GXE with 123,000 miles (hard miles - MY miles) to buy my 2004 Accord Coupe. It didn't burn a single drop between changes. Nor did the 1999 Buick Century that I sold in June, 2002 to buy the Chevy Venture (with the same 3.1L motor in it as the Venture) burn a drop of oil, even though it had nearly 70,000 miles on it.
(4) The oil consumption comment was made in comparison to something another poster said about Hondas and dealer professionalism. I think this is a great forum - lotsa people with really wonderful detailed knowledge about these vehicles. I'm NOT one of 'em though I try to pitch in and help where something I know comes by. However, if I may be permitted to say (and with love), you guys take this all too seriously and sometimes you scare me away from posting. Y'all need to lighten up just a little bit.
I happen to disagree with isellhondas (strongly) on a number of things he's posted, but I won't insult him about it - I'll just agree to disagree. This forum is an information provider that functions by consensus - the majority of you agreed with me - several of you offered good constructive suggestions - that's more than enough for me to figure out what to do.
All I'm really saying is let's try and be a little kinder to each other, OK?
Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when up to temp
Blink Code 8
OK, the car runs great when cold. At temp the CEL comes on and the ignition completely breaks down at 4,000 RPM.
Once it's cooled it runs fine again.
I've reset the codes by pulling the backup fuse and also disconnecting the battery. No codes appear until I start the vehicle again.
Unfortunately I don't have a test harness to test the leads to the ECU.
According to the Honda Manual, Blink code 8 is PGM-CARB Ignition Coil Signal
I've checked the resistance across the coil and it appears to be fine
Does anyone know what this could be?
Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when up to temp
Blink Code 8
OK, the car runs great when cold. At temp the CEL comes on and the ignition completely breaks down at 4,000 RPM.
Once it's cooled it runs fine again.
I've reset the codes by pulling the backup fuse and also disconnecting the battery. No codes appear until I start the vehicle again.
Unfortunately I don't have a test harness to test the leads to the ECU.
According to the Honda Manual, Blink code 8 is PGM-CARB Ignition Coil Signal
I've checked the resistance across the coil and it's fine
Does anyone know what this could be?
I believe you're supposed to keep the oil level within a quart of the full mark. Letting the oil level drop so there is less than 4.5 quarts (as you cite) means the oil runs hotter since it's being recyled more rapidly.
>I just sold a '99 Maxima GXE with 123,000 miles .... It didn't burn a single drop between changes
I find that difficult to believe. There must be oil between the rings and cylinder walls and some of that oil is going to be burned. If your oil level didn't drop, it's most likely due to contaminants building the oil volume up to replace the oil it used. Slight amount of oil goes down the valve stems also...
>to disagree with isellhondas
I have found Isell to be staightforward and clear about his knowledge here. If I lived in his area, he would probably get a visit as I checked out value of a Honda instead of my brand of cars I currently drive. I've occasionally had a different opinion. But I respect him. He's been a gentleman even in the face of insults, overt and covert. He adds a lot of knowledge to several discussions I see on Edmunds. Thanks to him. And yes you may disagree. That's what makes the discussion interesting (but sometimes they get TOO interesting... grin.)
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
What if you lost a gallon of tranny fluid every 4000 miles? Would you let anyone tell you that was even approaching acceptable?
Even assuming a quart of loss every 2000mi on avg (which is what he is experiencing), what if someone is following the normal maintenance schedule and waiting 10K miles to change the oil. They have lost over a gallon of oil by that point. Hell, why even bother changing the oil with a car like that, you will cycle through the old stuff soon enough anyway. So perhaps this is really a blessing in disguise, just remember to do the filter every once in a while.
Basically, I'm just sorry for the owner of that car....and the environment.
Enjoy your new Accord.
Just don't keep that light on too often. You may damage the fuel pump.
ambient temp gets too hot.
Stated as absolute fact multiple times. Sorry can't wiggle out of that one.
>quart of oil every 1000 miles means you have a problem....no matter what anyone says is normal.
Even though authorities say quart in 1000 or 1500 mi is normal, you know that it should never be such? Do you think you can tell a car is burning a quart in 1000 - 1500 miles when you're following that car? Do you see blue coming out the exhaust while it's traveling down the interstate. Not.
>Seriously, that's a GALLON of oil every 4000 miles.
And for normal driver that would be 4 gallons in a year of driving. Point? Isn't any. Not good debate point.
The point is if there's no oil on the walls and slight amount being burned off with the ignition, the car's running with dry cylinder walls. Not good for the environment either.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
i admit to not being a DIY so my comments should be taken accordingly...
while 30 oil changes on your '90 with the same washer is very impressive and i presume it's because as you say, you've taken great care not to over-torque the bolt each time, still, i doubt there is much compliance left to the "crush" portion / function of the washer and anyway, most DIY and *perhaps* some technicians (specially pressed for time) aren't as careful and consistent as you are.
if it's not working properly - i've come to believe it could be a contributor to a higher rate of oil consumption.
In your post #10845 you wrote about your Chevy Venture van "My low engine oil light is coming on about a 1/3 of the way through my normal oil change period (~4000-4500 miles)". I believe that you are the victim of a common misconception.
The "oil" lamp in your instrument panel, if it is like those on just about every car ever built, is NOT a low engine oil LEVEL warning. It is a low engine oil PRESSURE warning. If you wait until the lamp illuminates to check your oil, you may be too late. The damage due to a lack of oil or low oil level may already have been done.
So Hondalover may have a light for the level that your honda doesn't. That's a very useful indicator to have in the event of a loose or leaking oil plug or filter seal or a hole punched in the oil pan. You'll know oil is low before the engine is starving for oil at 75 mph on an expressway and the engine is run with no oil pressure.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As for the check engine light, the codes were P0401 and P0420 (EGR insufficient flow detected and CAT system efficiency below threshold). I cleaned the EGR value but the light is still on. I don't want to replace the EGR and CAT if possible but if I must I must.
The car has a very sensitive ignition switch. I have to turn it very slowly to the #III position and let it return after the engine starts very slowly. Any suggestions?
Any help in these matters would be appreciated.
Thanks,
abnkouri
However, the other light, is the "low engine oil" light, which may, in fact, say "low engine oil pressure." That IS based upon real world data from your oil sensor. Its usually my wife who sees it and takes the car in and its been a while since I drove her car so you're probably right (I'm too lazy to go outside and check it). Its a non-difference though, b/c with a 5.5 quart system down almost 20%, the pressure is going to be off anyway, no matter what.
However, even when the light comes on, I get no metallic eggbeater noises or noticeable difference in performance. THERE IS NO BLUE SMOKE OUT THE PIPE - EVER - though it DOES stink like burning oil after a moderate or greater run at highway speeds. The intake manifold gasket was replced 9k miles ago under warranty. Of course, I don't wait for the oil problem to strand me somewheres - I or my wife have it serviced right away or add oil ourselves when that happens.
Finally - when I say "doesn't burn a drop" re: my Maxima, it was a term of art meant to say that the oil loss was normal and negligible - roughly a pint (maybe 2 if it was a hard use period) in 5,000 miles. One of you keeps trying to paste me with an unreasonably literal interpretation of my post. Yes, all cars consume some oil, particularly when they get older. American cars are more notorious for this than Japanese cars. However, my Chevy drinks oil like an alcholic at an Old Grandad giveaway.
Oh, and I agree that isellhondas adds value to this board - I just don't always agree with what he says. But that means just that - I don't agree - not that I think less of him or want to scare him away from the board - his opinion is still part of the basis for the consensus that I look for when I post on this site. Besides, I don't disagree with him about EVERYthing - just some things.
Anyway - I appreciate all the time y'all have devoted to my CHEVY problem, but t'aint this a HONDA forum?! ;-)
Thank you all for replying to my question. I went back and tried leaving the window open and locking the door with my remote. Then, when I manually raise the locking pin and open the door the alarm goes off. So it works. With this simple experiment, I noticed the following:
1) If you don't lock your doors after exiting the car, the alarm will not automatically arm itself. You have to actually lock the door for the alarm to be set. On my previous car, the alarm would automatically arm itself after 30 seconds or so after closing the door, even if I didn't lock the car. So, this is a little different (no better, no worse, just different).
2) I hadn't noticed this before (I have had this car for only a couple of weeks), but there are actually two red leds that blink. The only one I had previously noticed is the smaller of the two blinking red lights below the cd player that reads "anti-theft". I assumed (erroneously) this was the indication that the alarm was armed. Then just today, when testing the alarm system I noticed the second larger blinking led to indicate the alarm was actually set up.
In retrospect, the combination of 1) and 2) caused me the confusion. As the door was unlocked, I still saw the small blinking anti-theft led, which I somehow interpreted as the alarm being armed. But when I opened the door, the alarm wouldn't go off, even though in my mind the alarm was armed.
Thanks again for the clarification.
This is a non-issue for the vast majority of drivers.
Umm...actually no. If you had read the post he obviously wasn't stating it as fact, just a general statement about his Maxima. And since the poster already pointed this out (thus proving you are wrong in this case) I won't bother with any other detail about that.
"Even though authorities say quart in 1000 or 1500 mi is normal, you know that it should never be such?"
For a modern passenger car? If so, then yeah..damn right I DO know it should not be such. That is way too much oil being lost. Who cares if I can tell a car is burning oil or not when following it on the highway. You can certainly tell if you own the car and check the level once in a blue moon. And you know what, a lot of the time you CAN tell when following the car. Next time a civic or accord buzzes by with a coffee can exhaust, take a whiff of what comes through your vents. Because about half the time (at least here in NY) you can smell how unhealthy the engine is. But for the record, that has nothing to do with the issue.
">Seriously, that's a GALLON of oil every 4000 miles.
And for normal driver that would be 4 gallons in a year of driving. Point?"
If you see no problem with losing 4 gallons of oil every year because of the way your engine is running you better be sure your warranties are in order my friend.
"The point is if there's no oil on the walls and slight amount being burned off with the ignition, the car's running with dry cylinder walls. Not good for the environment either."
True, but that still doesn't account for the kind of oil loss he was describing...and that was the point that you missed.
3,000 mile oil/filter change is a waste of money.
You said :"Most text books advocate 3,000 mile oil and fliter changes" That may have been true 30 years ago. Check the publish date on the text books; it sounds like the text books you are looking at are out-of-date.
Current 4 cylinder Hondas have a "normal" oil/filter change schedule of 10,000 miles and a severe schedule of 5,000 miles. That is the texbook I would use. In your case because of a lot of idling you could possible go with the severe schedule of 5,000 miles. But unless you also have a lot of short trips, a more reasonable interval for you would be 7,500 miles.
Good luck,
MidCow
Whenever I try to lock the door by inserting the key, the door lock but there is a chaterring sounds for three seconds. Seems like some electrical relay is turning ON/OFF.
anybody faced with this problem ?
Let me know if it sounds familiar or any thoughts. Thanks.
If you had your tires rotated or had a wheel off for a flat it is likely it was over-torqued or unevenly torqued when it was put back on. It could have come from the factory that way as well, but it is not as likely.
Dennis
Read this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB):
http://www.northcoasttuners.com/TSB/04-020.pdf