When you take your car in for the timing belt/water pump changeover, ask the tech to check the seal. If it doesn't have a retainer clip on it, ask them to install one with the service. The clip is only a $5.00 part and it will prevent the seal from blowing.
Sometimes when the antennas get older they get worse reception. If this is the case then you may want to try a new antenna tube and shaft.We have also added a ground to the body of the antenna to help with reception. As far as any good am radios, I know of non in our area.Good luck..
Idle problem temporarily fixed by nmoving some vacuum hoses. Now I know what the problem is.... I read somewhere that cleaning the air intake portion of the manifild on high mileage 2.2 is not a good idea. Something about cracks? Any ideas? I'd like to do it but not if it will harm anything.
Anyone know if it's possible to get the body-colored side skirts from the 2001 Accord EX installed on my 2000 SE? Would they fit, and would I be able to keep the splash guards I have on there now? If so, any idea of an approximate cost? I like the way they look, but I'm not sure how much I'd want to pay for the privilege.
....but I'm here to announce the new Honda Accord Owners club now available on Edmunds.com Owner's Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in .
my boyfriend has the '00 civic si which comes with the front and side underbody kit, then he bought the rear separately. i know with his kit on, the splash guards won't fit... i'm not sure, but would assume that the same would go for all honda's. i'm in the same dilemma since i have the splash guards on my '00 coupe, and really like how they keep the crap off my car in comparison to his...but i also really like the look of the underbody kit. let me know what you find out.
I bought a 91 Accord with 120K miles on it for around 3K an year back. Now it is up for state inspection and my last visit to dealer confirmed that unless I spend $1900, I can not drive this car. Here is a list of repair items with their estimated cost: Catalytic Converter Heat Shields $179 Two Tires $300 Front Struts $367 Alignment $69 Front Brake Pads and Rotors $590 Master Cylinder For Brakes $307
I am not sure if it is worth spending that much money on this car at this point. I already spent $1000 for Heater core and A/C compressor replacement last month. My wife thinks it is not a good investment, better off putting that $2000 as down for a new car. If I get this job done how long you think I will be able to drive this car with out any major problems?
My 96 Sedan wants to keep locking after I hit the power lock button (it sounds like a solenoid that keeps clicking) any suggestions. Is this difficult to replace?
I had my 60K service yesterday and the dealer indicated that the Power Steering pump seals were leaking. According to him they have a rebuild kit that costs about $150, including labor to install, or a new pump replacement for $540. Am I OK just to keep my eye on the level and replace fluid as necessary? The vehicle has never dropped a bit of fluid onto the garage floor and I am wondering what options I have.
My 1995 Honda accord has a fairly loud and quite distinct engine knock when the engine is just barely under load and is around 2500 - 3200 rpm. This knocking occurs when the engine is well warmed up (after driving for at least 10 minutes). The engine has had the noise since I bought it 30,000 miles ago, it now has 72,000. I have had no problems with it but the noise is irritating. The dealer recommended decarbon fuel treatment but it did no good. I've read of similar problems from Honda's of this era with the 2.2L engine. Does anyone else have this noise or know what it might be.
The car is 10 years old and you need all that work? It is not worth the investment unless you plan on keeping the car another 5 to 7 years. Mind you, other things will go wrong during that time period. Trade it in for a Japanese built Honda Accord I-4 or a Toyota Camry.
All of the stations on my radio exhibit static, but only when the car is running. I mainly notice it when the car is idling. The radio is fine when the car is off. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
I just got a brand new Honda Accord 2001 EX Automatic. A couple of days later, I discover some noise coming from the tranmission. It happens only the _first_ time I shift to D4 after starting the engine and move for ..maybe.. 50ft. The noise is very similar to the noise produce by power seat (my car doesn't have power seat), but it comes from the engine compartment area. The duration is approximately 2 seconds. When I need to reproduce the problem, I do as followed:
-> Cool down the engine -> Start up the engine (i never warm up the engine, by the way) -> shift it from P->R (getting out of garage) -> shift from R->D4 -> drive for about 50ft.. then the noise is made!
Either your radio antenna is picking up EMI (electromagnetic interference) generated by the alternator or ignition system, or the antenna's not properly grounded. Any audio shop should be able to pinpoint the source and add capacitors as required. Btw, when was the last time your car saw new spark plugs and plug wires?
The noise you hear when you shift your car into drive isn't from the transmission, it's from the anti-lock brakes. The system is filling with fluid which creates the buzzing noise after you shift into drive. The noise is completely normal. Hope this calms your fears.
In response to alcan, I changed the spark plugs in January of 2000 and the plug wires last summer, both genuine Honda parts. I got this car from my parents who purchased it new and the antenna broke after one year so since the current antenna is 7 years old or so I wonder if it needs to be replaced again. Thanks for your help.
In response to autoi, if you are sick of dumping money into that Accord I would go ahead and get a new car. The estimate for the repairs the dealer said you needed sounds a little bogus. It should not cost almost $600 to replace brake pads and rotors nor should two tires cost $300, unless they are high performance ones, which your car doesn't need anyway. The only thing that looks right was the estimate for the alignment. The Acura RL is a very nice car so have fun with it if you decide to buy it.
I've been reading about problems with the V6 transmissions. My 2001 LX V6 "clunks" when I put it into reverse, but otherwise seems fine. Is this something I need to bring to the dealership's attention?
Definitely take your car into the dealership and tell them of your problem.This clunk sound is not normal and has been a problem that Honda hasn't been able to resolve with their supplier.This problem will eventually lead to transmission failure. Honda has been replacing V-6 transmissions at an alarming rate. The fix is a remanufactured transmission which Honda will replace under warranty. Go to the NHSTA website and check the rate of this failure. Definitely bring your car to your Honda dealer as soon as possible.
Based on prior posts I believe the transmission problem occurs when you back up 10-20 feet NOT when you're just shifting into reverse. Maybe Auburn63 can respond. Stay calm, I don't think you have the transmission problem. As far as I know the "clunk" problem only occurred in early 2000 Accords.
Yes, the cost for two tires is very high. And other items also, I know he is trying to rip me off. My previous dealer did that to me too. Ma be they don't like out of warranty cars or may be this is the only way the service departments can make money.
I still love that car but since it is too old to buy an extended warranty I have to dump it. I decided to trade it in as soon as I get a good quote on Acura.
Thanks for your input, it makes me feel much better But is there any explanation why it doesn't happen earlier? I carefully test drive the car, didn't notice it. Drive it out the lots for days.. it didn't happen.. Any information?
Anyone has the information or link to how this is done? I have an LX and would like to have it programmed (have a transmitter). Please e-mail to: agonzalez6@cfl.rr.com Thanks, Gonzo
cyclonemike Sounds as if your power door lock actuator has gone bad. To replace it you have to remove the door panel and seperate this unit from the latch assymbly. Not hard but not easy either. As for the power steering you can just keep an eye on your fluid levels. I see alot of these seap but hardly ever see them get any worse.Clean it up, add fluid and keep an eye on it.
jcvillegas I have heard a similar noise in a few and Honda has said that the noise will probably never get any worse than the slight noise you hear. They say most of thse are caused by the alternator and or the power steering belt being to tight at one time appling to much presure to the main bearing on the crank in an uneven way. If it isn't bad then let it go , if it gets worse you could put crank bearings in.
You definitely have the early warning sign with the "clunk" sound of your transmission. The V-6 Accord transmission has been a problem since 1998. It isn't an isolated problem in any one year. You problem is just like you said, it didn't happen when you test drove the vehicle and slowly occurred over time. Better be safe than sorry and schedule an appointment at your Honda dealership. They do have service bulletins on this problem. Consult with your service writer when you bring in the car for service about the bulletins.
Everyone's information has proved most helpful. Contemplating purchase of 2001 Accord EX w/ V6. Given transmission problems, is 4-cyl a smarter purchase?
Isn't the tranmission problem only exist on V6? I have a 4 cylinders engine. I went to the service department this morning to ask them about the problem. The guy said it was the ABS pump that make the noise. But, lord knows, these techie at dealer sometimes just want to save money because my car only has 1600 miles on it. I don't trust them at all Does it suppose to happen every single time after the engine starts and shifts to D4? I mean.. doesn't it make more sense if the noise sounds the first time I press the break pedal if it's the ABS? One more thing... How does the "clunk" sounds like??? At least i would know if there is a problem with mine too
Honda has a problem with their V-6 transmissions in their 6th generation Accord. The "clunk" you hear is telling you that there is something wrong with your transmission. If you heard the "clunk" on a Ford or Toyota, wouldn't you take your car to the dealer to have it checked out? Sorry, isellhondas does just that, sells Hondas! I would rather have the service manager at a dealership reassure me regarding a transmission clunk sound problem than a car salesman. They receive service bulletins all the time from Honda regarding various problems and their correction. Simple put, the clunk you hear in your transmission is not normal. Did you hear it when you test drove your car? Did you hear after you had the car a few weeks? I doubt it since the problem occurs over time. Do yourself a favor and take the car in to have it looked at your Honda dealership. Remember, your car only has a 3year 36K powertrain warranty.
I bought a 2001 Accord LX/auto/without ABS last month. When I put my hand on the steering wheel, I can feel obviouly shaking during idling everytime I start the engine. The vibration is much smaller during normal driving. I tried my friends' Camary and Subaru/forester, I could not feel the vibration on camary and that on forester was barely noticeable. Anyone can tell me if this is normal/typical for Accord? Thanks. Phil
Get over it....you are starting to sound rather paranoic!!....oh yeah, there is a secret conspirancy going on against all mighty Honda and its perfect products....
I own 4 cylinder, manual 5 speed Accord w/ 7,500 miles and I also hear the "moan" noise right when I take off and have been told by various people its also the ABS "checking itself". So I am with Isellhondas on this one.
In response to phil69 I have a 93 Accord EX 4-cylinder auto with 138,000 miles on it that has a steering wheel shake at idle too. I don't think it should occur on my car and definitely not on your new car. Take your car to the dealer and have them look at it. Also ask to test drive another Accord 4-cylinder to see if it feels any different at idle and if it does then they should fix your problem. Good luck.
I've heard about enough, so guess it's time to speak up:
There is no generic defect in the automatic used on the V6 Accord. The "clunk" sound when in reverse is a known problem with a limited run of parts. There is a TSB out on it, and the dealer should be more than happy to solve the problem for you.
Absolutely do buy the V6 if you can afford it and want the extra power, smoothness, and quiet over the 4 cyl. We did and have no regrets and no problems. No new car is going to be perfect - a small percentage of any make / model will have one thing or another that you will have to deal with. If there is another manufacturer out there that gives you a better statistical chance to have a relatively trouble-free ownership experience than Honda, I don't know who it is. Toyota has had its own [again, statistically small] share of grief on various issues, including suspension problems and head-gasket failures on the Camry V6s, and oil contamination problems with the 4 cyl. Yet there are hundreds of thousands of satisfied customers out there who keep buying them, and so it is with Honda, as well.
There is no secret conspiracy, and Honda is not perfect, and I'm not selling any cars. But the data suggests the trans problems on the V6s were / are very rare, and should be no reason to make or break a buying decision.
I guess I expect a lot from Honda product. I have own 3 of them, this is the first one that freak me out I was afraid that there will be something wrong with the engine ... but it's all good now
My Accord has several chips...one in the key, another in the computer...and several under the rear seat (my son was eating chips one day and they fell in there. ????
I recently purchased a 01 civic auto. When I approach to stop, I can hear kind of "clicking" noise. It seems to me that it makes the "clicking" sound when the transmission downshifts. Is this normal? ps. you can also hear the clicking sound when you shift into D4. Thanks for your input!
I don't think so especially during the test drive. The V-6 transmission technical service bulletin you are talking about requires the transmission to be replaced with a remanufactured one that Honda provides. Is this problem isolated you ask? Absolutely not, that is why Honda issued a technical service bulletin on the problem. Who wants to buy a new Accord V-6 when Honda knows there is a transmission defect they can't correct. It has been happening since 1998 and Honda and their supplier still can not correct the problem. What does that tell you about Honda quality? If I was going to purchase an Accord V-6, I would definitely buy Honda's extended warranty. By the way, isellhondas, do you recommend extended Honda warranties to V-6 customers? Personally, I would choose an I-4 anyday over the V-6 until Honda corrects their transmission defect.
You are misinformed. There is no ongoing "defect" in these transmissions. But have it your way...
For everyone else, OF COURSE it would be the height of foolishness to buy a new car with a known defect. Not being a fool, I can testify that our '01 EX V6 has been trouble-free and a delight in every respect.
As it happens, I think the 4 cyl, especially after the changes made to the '01 chassis to make it quieter, is by far the best car in this class for the money, and would never discourage anyone from buying one. The Accord LX 4 cyl continues to be the raving bargain of this part of the market. However, I wanted the extra power and smoothness of the 6 cyl, and we have never regretted that decision.
Even at the height of the MY 2000 problem with the V6 trans, fewer than 5% of the cars produced were affected. And it wasn't subtle, or something that was going to sneak up on you. Now, trans failures in these cars are in the usual statistical range that you expect for any mechanical device - you're just as likely to get a defective trans [manual or automatic] with a 4 cyl car as with the 6...but legends live on...believe what you will...
I have owned a 2000 EXV6 since July 2000. It is a wonderful car - not perfect, but wonderful. I have never had a transmission problem at all. The V6 and trans on this car are superb. My car was manufactured in June of 2000. The V6 trans problems were related to a small window of cars with manufactured dates prior to March 2000. By the way, remember that you are most likely to hear a lot of complaints on a forum like this. The great majority of happy and satisfied Honda owners will never voice their opinions here. So don't get caught up in the overblown rhetoric. Honda's are very fine cars. Instead of over analyzing every sound in your vehicle, just enjoy it!
It has been along time since I have had to replace one and only did a few even then. It is just a small percentage of them and that I know of has been cured since Late 99 to early 00. Not to say that people can't get un lucky and have trans problems, just saying that they are few that have actual problems while the rest are normal characteristics.
I read with dismay the comment made by jrtc9454 made regarding misinformation regarding the V-6 Accord's transmission. Honda has an ongoing problem with their V-6 transmission have yet to resolve. Honda is doing everything in their power by replacing customers V-6 transmissions with remanufactured ones. The TSB is out there regarding transmission failure.What I don't understand is why the Acura V-6 doesn't have the same failure rate? The Honda Care extended warranty would be a welcomed addition to a V-6 Accord owner. Honda's powertrain warranty is for only 3yrs/36K. The Accord V-6 is a very nice vehicle but plainly put, it isn't up to the same quality standards of other Honda produced products.
I have a 2k lx v6 built 8/99 and bought 9/99. 21k miles on it so far and no transmission problems but I have recently gotten the Hondacare 7yr/100k just in case. I don't think the problem is widespread, but from what I have gathered my car would have been built around the time frame that this problem surfaced. Maybe I got a good one, but at least I won't be losing any sleep over it now. The reported clunking occurs after moving several feet in reverse and is not the same as the minor click you get when putting tranny in R from another gear while stopped. The problem is readily apparent and not a gradual onset of symptoms. At least that's my understanding. Another alleged problem was shuddering when torque converter locked at 30-45 mph. Haven't had that either. I think if it passes these two items, it's probably a good one and will have the lifespan normally associated with Honda transmissions.
I purchased my 2001 Accord LX V6 at an AutoNation dealership and was told they could not sell me the extended warranty from Honda, only from AutoNation. Can I just walk into a regular Honda dealership and buy one? How long do I have to buy it...I've had the car for 22 days now.
I'm sorry if the question has already been posted. I haven't used town hall since they switched to this new software and can't find a search for the individual topics.
Has anyone ever changed the rear disc brakes on their coupe? (Mines a '99 EX). I couldn't believe it, but my rear discs are totally worn down to the metal with my fronts having plently left. My dealer said this is normal since they are such small discs (15-20k life expectancy).
Anyways, I was trying to change the disc and couldn't get them to release. Has anyone else had any problems and if so, are there any tricks or hints. Thanks
Comments
I read somewhere that cleaning the air intake portion of the manifild on high mileage 2.2 is not a good idea. Something about cracks?
Any ideas? I'd like to do it but not if it will harm anything.
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in .
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
i'm not sure, but would assume that the same would go for all honda's. i'm in the same dilemma since i have the splash guards on my '00 coupe, and really like how they keep the crap off my car in comparison to his...but i also really like the look of the underbody kit. let me know what you find out.
Catalytic Converter Heat Shields $179
Two Tires $300
Front Struts $367
Alignment $69
Front Brake Pads and Rotors $590
Master Cylinder For Brakes $307
I am not sure if it is worth spending that much money on this car at this point. I already spent $1000 for Heater core and A/C compressor replacement last month. My wife thinks it is not a good investment, better off putting that $2000 as down for a new car.
If I get this job done how long you think I will be able to drive this car with out any major problems?
I appreciate all your suggestions.
Thanks
I had my 60K service yesterday and the dealer indicated that the Power Steering pump seals were leaking. According to him they have a rebuild kit that costs about $150, including labor to install, or a new pump replacement for $540. Am I OK just to keep my eye on the level and replace fluid as necessary? The vehicle has never dropped a bit of fluid onto the garage floor and I am wondering what options I have.
Thanks.
Thanks for your inputs.
-> Cool down the engine
-> Start up the engine (i never warm up the engine, by the way)
-> shift it from P->R (getting out of garage)
-> shift from R->D4
-> drive for about 50ft.. then the noise is made!
Is this normal for honda accord tranny?????
Please help
~sugartree .. a new accord owner..
transmissions. My 2001 LX V6 "clunks" when I put it into reverse, but otherwise seems fine. Is this something I need to bring to the dealership's attention?
I still love that car but since it is too old to buy an extended warranty I have to dump it. I decided to trade it in as soon as I get a good quote on Acura.
Thanks again for your input.
Thanks guy
~Sugartree
Please e-mail to: agonzalez6@cfl.rr.com
Thanks,
Gonzo
Sounds as if your power door lock actuator has gone bad. To replace it you have to remove the door panel and seperate this unit from the latch assymbly. Not hard but not easy either. As for the power steering you can just keep an eye on your fluid levels. I see alot of these seap but hardly ever see them get any worse.Clean it up, add fluid and keep an eye on it.
jcvillegas
I have heard a similar noise in a few and Honda has said that the noise will probably never get any worse than the slight noise you hear. They say most of thse are caused by the alternator and or the power steering belt being to tight at one time appling to much presure to the main bearing on the crank in an uneven way. If it isn't bad then let it go , if it gets worse you could put crank bearings in.
sugartree~
No problems with four cyl transmissions and only isolated problems with some V-6's that were built during a window of time.
The ABS unit will make a "moaning" sound when you start to move the car as it spools itself up.
Completely normal.
There is no generic defect in the automatic used on the V6 Accord. The "clunk" sound when in reverse is a known problem with a limited run of parts. There is a TSB out on it, and the dealer should be more than happy to solve the problem for you.
Absolutely do buy the V6 if you can afford it and want the extra power, smoothness, and quiet over the 4 cyl. We did and have no regrets and no problems. No new car is going to be perfect - a small percentage of any make / model will have one thing or another that you will have to deal with. If there is another manufacturer out there that gives you a better statistical chance to have a relatively trouble-free ownership experience than Honda, I don't know who it is. Toyota has had its own [again, statistically small] share of grief on various issues, including suspension problems and head-gasket failures on the Camry V6s, and oil contamination problems with the 4 cyl. Yet there are hundreds of thousands of satisfied customers out there who keep buying them, and so it is with Honda, as well.
There is no secret conspiracy, and Honda is not perfect, and I'm not selling any cars. But the data suggests the trans problems on the V6s were / are very rare, and should be no reason to make or break a buying decision.
ps. you can also hear the clicking sound when you shift into D4. Thanks for your input!
For everyone else, OF COURSE it would be the height of foolishness to buy a new car with a known defect. Not being a fool, I can testify that our '01 EX V6 has been trouble-free and a delight in every respect.
As it happens, I think the 4 cyl, especially after the changes made to the '01 chassis to make it quieter, is by far the best car in this class for the money, and would never discourage anyone from buying one. The Accord LX 4 cyl continues to be the raving bargain of this part of the market. However, I wanted the extra power and smoothness of the 6 cyl, and we have never regretted that decision.
Even at the height of the MY 2000 problem with the V6 trans, fewer than 5% of the cars produced were affected. And it wasn't subtle, or something that was going to sneak up on you. Now, trans failures in these cars are in the usual statistical range that you expect for any mechanical device - you're just as likely to get a defective trans [manual or automatic] with a 4 cyl car as with the 6...but legends live on...believe what you will...
The reported clunking occurs after moving several feet in reverse and is not the same as the minor click you get when putting tranny in R from another gear while stopped. The problem is readily apparent and not a gradual onset of symptoms.
At least that's my understanding.
Another alleged problem was shuddering when torque converter locked at 30-45 mph. Haven't had that either.
I think if it passes these two items, it's probably a good one and will have the lifespan normally associated with Honda transmissions.
I'm sorry if the question has already been posted. I haven't used town hall since they switched to this new software and can't find a search for the individual topics.
Has anyone ever changed the rear disc brakes on their coupe? (Mines a '99 EX). I couldn't believe it, but my rear discs are totally worn down to the metal with my fronts having plently left. My dealer said this is normal since they are such small discs (15-20k life expectancy).
Anyways, I was trying to change the disc and couldn't get them to release. Has anyone else had any problems and if so, are there any tricks or hints. Thanks