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is where the outside mirror housing pivots with the actual mirror. Now snap the mirror back to regular position. You should see a a very small horizontal seam/gap between the mirror housing and the actual mirror(about 1/4 inch vertical and 2 1/2 inches horizontal. hats where I but the electrical tape over the horizontal seam. It took care of my wind noise, that's all I know. I assumed it was air rushing through this small gap that was making the wind whistle.
Hope that helped.
tonight
we have a check engine light that stays on -- NO-- it is not the gas cap. Owners man. says it
has to do with polution controls. Anyone else with a newer one of these -- had anything like
this happen? -- Dealer will get a call first thing tomorrow-- Good grief -- I hope this is not an
indicator of more problems -- Hell -- we have not even made the first payment!!!-- its only 2
weeks old!!
Just thought I would run this by the knowledgeble folks that frequent this board.
I will be upgrading the speakers and deck in my 94 Accord Sedan.
I read a while back about adding "insulation material" to the door panels.
Does anyone here have any information on this? How effective will it be?
The road noise is not too bad. However I would not mind a quieter ride.
Especially since the door panels will have to be removed to upgrade the speakers.
thanks
It takes a fixed number of engine starts [I believe it is six, but I'm not sure] before the OBD trap will be reset by the computer, and the light will go out. Of course, it could be something else, which is why the trip to the dealer is a good idea - but don't be surprised if the cap is indeed the source of the problem.
The federal rules on OBD sensitivity have been a huge issue for the car makers, especially Toyota, who actually went to court over this. Small or even non-existent problems are driving both owners and dealers nuts...don't assume anything about long term reliability over this situation.
I am responding to a couple of messages posted earlier[around the #1230..]
I do to have windnoise from my mirror it is not that bad though i dont even notice it anymore.
Also I have the same thing happened to me today for the first time with the sideairbag lamp coming on shortly [978miles on my new 2001ex-v6 as of today],it came on today for a few seconds while i was sitting in my car in park with engine running waiting for the rain to stop...what wonders me about it is that when I am sitting down in the driver's seat im always getting this clicking noise from about where the sideairbag is located in the seat...also when im putting weight with my shoulder while sitting to the location where the sideairbag is Im also getting that clicking noise[always clicks once]aaaaaannnoying
Finally has anyone ever noticed if it gets wet inside the car where the sunroof closes into the roof after it rains.....i noticed that i had some moisture in the crack between the roof and the part where the sunroof rests on when closed thankfully it doesnt get inside the cabin anywhere where it could hurt fabric [yet?]. there is a barrier to keep anything to get into the car and get the inside wet but i still dont like this............none of my previous cars'sunroofs have ever had let any water through before.
please if anyone could let me know if they ever had noticed anything like that????????? I will bring this to the dealers attention next week and post whatever i might find out then. thanks everyone.
PS i do have confidence in honda since i owned honda's before but this does bother me quite a bit.
One the the drawbacks of side air bags is that if the passenger (hopefully not the driver) are asleep and their heads are leaning towards the bag, there is the potential for injury from a side airbag.
Do you guys think this is covered under warranty?
Does someone have any idea why my low fuel indicator came on when there was still one fifth of gas left indicated by the fuel gauge? I refueled the tank to full with roughly 13.5 gallons of gas. Shouldn't the fuel tank of Accord hold 17 gallons? It happened every time around the 13.5 mark. My car is a 2001 Accord EX with only 700 miles on it. Is it a malfunction of the low fuel indicator or it is supposed to be like this? Anyone has similar experience? If this is a malfunction, can it be corrected somehow? Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.
There is a reason: running out of fuel in one of these cars is very hard on the catalysts, and can cause problems elsewhere in the fuel system, as well.
And one last observation: fuel gauges are notoriously inaccurate, across the entire spectrum of the automotive world. There seems to be some expectation out there that nominal fuel capacity [which is just that: NOMINAL] will somehow translate into a nice linear movement of the fuel pointer. WRONG. Tank shape, float design and placement in the tank, number and position of tank baffles, and other variables mean the gauge will never be accurate except at absolute empty...the one reading you don't want to see. The rest of the time, it is an approximation, and a rough one at that. Never use it as an indication of anything else.
When the low fuel light on my 99 EX V-6 coupe comes on, there is still something like four gallons of gas left...a lot.
On the other hand, we once owned a Buick that had a low fuel light that only came on when we were running on fumes. When it came on, it meant business! Found out the hard way.
I know what I would rather have!
The replacement fuel gauge in my v6 accord is showing a completely different calibration than the original. Now, 1/2 tank means I've used @9 gals(actual half tank should be @ 8.56, so pretty accurate in my estimation). The original, at half tank meant I had used @7 gals, almost 20% off.
Why is that, since all parameters have remained unchanged? Because the original was bad. Pure and simple.
I have yet to run it to E, but the original had @ 3 gals left when the light came on. I won't run it to E just to be safe but will refuel @ 1/4 tank for the next accuracy evaluation. After that I'll have a pretty good idea of what exactly E is, but I'm pretty sure it won't be as much as 3 gals(like the first one).
By the way, I was able to rationalize why the first one performed the way it did, but after reading many other posts about this problem I decided to let the dealer know and he immediatley replaced the FSU without any attempt to convince me that this was "normal" or that maybe it was just in my head. That should tell something to all the people who get the "it's normal" response when they have problems they don't think should be there.
Ever since Honda replaced my 'Fuel Sending Unit', my gas gauge has been more or less accurate. Besides, I now use the "B" trip mileage indicator on my tripmeter to record how many miles I've gone since the last fuel fillup. At 750 miles, I know to fill it up again. Hehe, only kidding. I actually do that but I get the gas station iche at about 275-300.
-They often change suppliers in mid-production, which can change the equation [a new supplier of FSUs, a new float design, etc.]
-I've NEVER had two cars of the same make and model [and we have been in that situation more times than most people] with fuel gauges that read exactly the same way...period. We've had two same-generation Accords in the garage at once, and twice have had two same-generation Camrys at the same time...fuel gauges all behave differently.
Look, I'm not saying yours didn't have a problem - I am saying that there is a lot of worry on this topic out here in Forum-Land that I think is misplaced. There was even a long [I mean very long] thread in one of the Toyota topics on this very issue, with people insisting that half a tank should by-god-be 8.645 gallons, etc. In some other universe, maybe...
The biggest variable of all is that, short of filling it to overflowing each time [which is bad for the recirc system, and bad for the atmosphere], you can't consistently get the same amount into a so-called "full tank" each time, anyway, no matter how hard you try. I think it just makes more sense to use the odometer as your primary indicator, and the fuel meter as a stopgap safety measure...I think of it as being there basically to keep you from running completely dry, and for nothing else.
the problem is i cannot play a cd that was burned from any computer in the cd player. i have come across another friend who owns accord with same problem. does anyone know how this can be fixed?
Has anyone else noticed this problem?
AS The problem I asked about last week --The check engine light-- was reset by the dealer -- and they could not figure out what set it off. Service mar said honda was setting the computers "too sensitive" for this particular sensor (the one that senses a gas cap left off or a hole in the tank)
after the car was fully broken in, which took nearly 7000 miles.
of my driving is on the highway and I usually get
30 to 31 mpg. I would think that city driving should get around 23 or 24 mpg. However, the mileage will improve, as it took me about 4,000 or 5,000 miles to hit 30mpg. Before that, I think I got 27 or 28 mpg.
If that doesn't take care of it, a fairly easy thing to try is to, pull the rad take it to a car wash and use a power washer to clean in out from the back. I know a number of people that have done that with success on cars with a few years on them.
If this doesn't work, I would suggest you get it looked at by a pro. Guessing and ignoring things can lead to big expense.
If you really overheat a honda-chances are good you will warp the head and blow a head gasket. I have heard horror stories about the success rate of fixing warped heads/blown head gaskets. Fix it now.
I also had a 91 and went 112K before having to replace the front disks. Never touched the rears in the 140K I owned it. That was a 5 sp and the 98 is an auto so there is some difference there.
This problem only seems to happen when the engine is cold. Right after it starts, there's this loud clunk, it happens only once. It almost sounds like a bad motor mount, which are all OK. Not a metal sound, like something is binding, but everything operates normal and it won't happen again until the car has sat for a while.
Anybody have any ideas????????????Thanks
If the temp just keeps getting hotter as you drive then I would start at the thermostat. You can sort-of check it by feeling the upper and lower radiator hoses and compairing the temps. If they are not the same temp then you may have a stuck thermostat, which could cause your problem. Systems such as your which has been slightly neglected could have multiple problems such as radiator and water pump fins rotting away. Thermostat is easiest and cheepest so you may want to start there. As for the fans they only run at the same time if the A/C is on. Otherwise the fan on the passenger side is the one that operates as the main cooling fan.
brakes
They are alot thicker in the front than in the back so that is why they usally go first. With the older models most of them were rear shoes which last for ever and the ones with rear pads were thicker than they are today.
Clunk,
There is a service bulletin that addresses what sounds like your complaint. I can't remember the number but I will try and find it. Otherwise you can ask the Honda dealer that you go to they should know.
Hope this was helpful.
So, I would guess the rear pads are rubbing if they are wearing out in 30,000 miles or less.