We just had our Accord's oil changed (and state inspection). When I got home, I smelled a slight burning smell. I popped the hood and noticed a slight 'steamlike' smoke coming from the engine towards the windshield. I checked the oil (after the car cooled) and there was plenty. The car was not running hot and otherwise ran just fine. Any ideas as to why this smell started? Could oil have spilled on the engine? Don't know if I am being overly cautious but I just wanted to be safe as its the car with the baby seat Thanks.
You are wise to be cautious, Emaison. Some oil is often spilled on the exhaust pipe when the old filter is removed. Even when the technician wipes it off as well as possible, some odor and smoke can result. As you reported, this fuming can be seen between the engine and the firewall when the hood is opened. If this continues for more than 25 miles, suggest that you check for a leak.
That was my theory, but I wasn't sure of the filter's location. I checked again tonight and the smell has nearly vanished. The car is a 2001 so I will assume its probably not a leak. I will keep tabs on the oil level just in case though.
The dealer tech diagonosed the clicking as coming from the vacuum switching valve for the purge control valve and considered it "normal". You can put your finger on this valve and actually feel the clicking. I haven't worried about it and everything is working fine with 25k miles. But I did spring for the extended warranty for this and other possible problems that may or may not plague this model.
Hello all, This is my first post on this site and I must say that this a great little community you have here. Anyway, I have a '02 EX Coupe with the 4 cylinder. i now have 3000 miles on it and just came back from a long trip. I notice that that there seems to be a rattling noise coming from the center of the dash, by the air conditioner vents (so it seems) its a very small sounding vibration, it is a constant vibration sound, but comes on intermitantly. Any thoughts on what this mught be? It is very annoying. I am ready to beat the hell out of the dashboard! ;-) Thanks!
I have 90 Accord with 177k going strong. I am upgrading my brake lines with steel braded ones to have a trong brake feel, I know it will not do wonders but any way I will try to get what I can with this upgrade.
My question to any one who may have experienced the front brake caliper cluncking noise: what was the solution if you had it fixed. IMHO it could be brake piston seal worn out allowing piston to wiggle. Brake pads are around 70% thickness, there is no apparent play b/t the caliper assembly and mounting bolts. Could it be brade pads seats needs grase?? any comments are appreciated
Has anyone else out there had to replace their converter? My car has 92k miles and I am being told that the converter needs to be replaced at a cost of $1k! I was also told that this problem is happening frequently even on cars with much less mileage. How can I get recall info?
i have a 92 accord 4dr and would like to replace the speakers in the front doors. does anyone know how to do so and any tools that may be required. unfortunatly they are not as easy as my 94's which has the grill that just pops off. its seems that i will have to take the door pannel off. any help would be nice...thanks
02accordcoupe, Nothing comes to mind, is there anything that is loose in the area or is it from the vents themselves..
maq4463 You can spray disc brake quiet (sold in a small can at auto parts stores) inbetween the shims and on the back of the pads where the caliper hits it and this will hold the pads in place and keep then from making noise.
cassandra37 There is no actual recalls out on the cat and yes we have seen a few but not alot of them. The warranty on them I believe is 80,000 and that is usally one of those hard mileage things.Meaning at 80,000 not at 80,001. If the code you are getting is for cat deterioration then you probably do need one.
venanzik No real special tools needed but a door panel popper tool is nice to have but yank and pull works also. You will need a phillips head screw driver also.
accordic Old age, disturbance of the gasket and or just any old time it feels like it.
I assume that is a dealer price.I would check with some independent shops specializing in Hondas.Heck for that kind of money you could get a custom system with a grapefruit shooter exhaust tip.
I own a 99 accord LX auto 4-cyl coupe with a little over 50,000 miles. I was wondering if anyone had any problems with the brakes on this car, as far as excessive wear. It seems I just replaced the brake pads on my car less than a year ago and am needing them again. I know I am hard on the brakes but this seems excessive. I had a 93 Civic EX coupe for 6 years prior and only replaced them a few times and definitely not that soon after replacing them the first time and I did much more driving than I do now. I traded it in w/a little over 100,000 mi on it and the only problem I ever had was the distributor which was replaced right before I traded. I LOVED THAT CAR!!! I was also wondering if anyone had any trouble with the gas pedal sticking when you first accelerate after starting the car. It seems to only do it when the weather gets colder. Any suggestions? Other than that have not had any problems with the car other than it being hit three times. None of which were my fault thankyouverymuch.
frt brakes usally last from 30,000 to 60,000 dpending on driving habbits and rear pads last about 30-40 on the average.Rear shoes last almost forever it seems..
As for the sticky gas pedal this is due to the throttle plate having build up on it and is sticking to the inside of the throttle body. For the best repair you need to take it off the car and clean it from both sides with gumout or carb cleaner...
I recently bought a 2002 LXV6 and after about 2 weeks I discovered that the back of the bottom seat cushion cloth cover on the power drivers seat doesn't fit right. It isn't cut correctly to tuck in behind the plastic sections on the sides and sticks out -looks like hell from the back. The dealer replaced it once but it looks the same. I met the regional service manager who, after several weeks of "research" said that "that's the way the parts are made" and there is nothing they can do. He has offered to pay for an auto upholsterer to fix it, but both that I have gone to say they can't fix it since this is a special material that is molded to shape. Anyone else see this? What recourse do I have to get Honda to fix what is obviously a poorly designed part? Thanks for your help.
Auburn63 - bad advice Disc brake quiet is actually bad thing to do. It acts as an insulator between brake pads and caliper and the build up heat can warp the rotors. The reason for semi-metallic pads was to dispate the heat from disc pad to caliper.
that the dealer could just replace the entire seat.This seems much less expensive for the dealership.This what I can't understand about Honda-it's like they will spend extra money rather then please a customer.The fact that most Honda buyers do not get big discounts should leave plenty of fat to accomadate the buyer.
habaka I havent noticed it but I will check it out and see if I see any.
pundat We have been using it for years and have not had any problems with it at all. Now I am not saying saturate it I was just saying to spray a little.
i have a 92 accord and it seem that in the last 6-8 months or so that the fan has been coming on more frequently than i can ever remember after i turn the car off. My driving style hasn’t changed and outside temperature varied from 90 on hot summer to 40's currently, but it still seems to come on whenever i turn off the engine. the temperature gauge inside never goes above half way and i do understand that the fan is suppose to come on but like i said it comes on with much greater frequency than i can ever remember. is there the possibility that something is wrong ie thermostat, cooling system?...what can i do to check for problem or solve it? thanks for the time
02accordcoupe I have the same noise on my 4 door. Dealer keeps saying it's the alarm siren that is mounted on the fire wall. It's not but they say that and hand me the keys. Oh well. If you figure it out let me know.
The gas pedal was sticking a little on our 98 Accord. The dealer said it was some kind of buildup on the throttle near the engine, and suggested that we have the 'throttle body' cleaned. I guess this means cleaning the part of the intake system between the air filter and the intake manifold.
We had it done, and the throttle no longer sticks.
I just got a notice from Honda that they are extending warranty repairs for clogged EGR ports to 8 yr. 80k miles. They say Check Engine light will come on and if service determines it is due to clogged ports they will repair at no charge. That's nice, but I'm sure that will be the last thing checked after they soak you for a few beans on unnecessary part replacements. Applies to 99-01 models.
I am in the market for a 02 Accord. I testdrove the VP and LX(auto). I felt the vibration through the steering wheel at idling speed. Is this normal on this veh? Thanks!
hi all. i've been contemplating going back to honda and wanted some input on honda quality after they have had a few years to produce a 100% built in the USA car. i know hondas have been built in ohio forever but the 98 accord was the first honda to be 100% part supplied and built here - too bad :-(
anyway - after my '98 EX fell apart on me, i dropped honda and went german. i've owned 6 accords in the past and was always (and still am) a big fan of honda engineering. i've decided to buy a house so I've decided to cut my monthly car payments and go back to something that is more fuel efficient. love the german cars but i'm looking to save some $$$ (note that my german cars have not had a single problem in over 50,000 but the V6's are gas hogs - though they are torquey and fun to drive!). a honda is the only japanese marque i would even consider. but as i said, my last experince with a "built in the good 'ol USA" honda was less than stellar.
in 1 year and less than 20,000 miles: clutch slave cylinder was replaced, brake master cylinder was replaced, fuel system problem that made the engine vibrate like a paint mixer in the winter, a squeaky sunroof close and opened, a "tea kettle" whistle from the rear of the car even when at a stop that the dealer couldn't diagnose, and the list goes on. the final straw was a set of warped front rotors at 20,000 miles that were considered consumable items that I was supposed to pay for. (interestingly enough, ford had a problem with their front rotors that year also. same part supplier!?!?!)
how has the overall quality of american built accords been? the materials in my brothers [non-permissible content removed] built prelude were noticably better than my last accord as was the structural integrity - not a squeak even after all these years. i'd love to be in a honda again but i am convinced there is a big difference in an american built car and a japanese built car. your feed back and thoughts would be appreciated.
My paranoia @ car repairs isn't some genetic trait. It comes from real life experiences. Had some good mechanics, but they seem to just fade away with time. Something about "only the good die young" I guess.
We are considering a 2001 EX with a moon roof. Has any one had any leaky/squeky problems with these. I searched around and only found this problem mentioned once with the fix it to grease the seals. Thanks!
i bought a 2000 honda accord lx. It is a 5speed. I noticed that when the speedometer says im going 80 its really 70..i called the dealer and he said that all hondas when going 80 the tachometer reads at 3..is that right?,
trip3564: I had a 99 Accord EX I4 sedan and a 01 coupe V6 ... neither one had any problems with the exception of the intermittent moonroof rattle which didn't occur often enough to bother me.
Is a 2000 Accord SE 4 cyl. Really like the car but I have a squeaky dash that only happens if you go over bumps when it is around 20 degrees and you run the heater thru the vents. Had it back to the dealer 3 times, they thought they fixed the first time, no dice, second time, no dice, third time could not reproduce the problem. Around 50 degrees out the coin holder rattles. Other than that its been good, now with 20,000 miles on it.
So far my Accord has been as trouble free as my timex watch. I try to do preventive maintenance as much as I can.
Lately I hear squeaky noise coming from the driver side of the front end. I usually (like 80% of the time) hear it when I go over a speed bump. It matters little whether I go over it fast or slowly; the noise is still made. The sound is like a rubber part rubbing against another rubber part. Unless driven hard, there is no noise when driving. It always makes the sounds over the bumps. Also, when it's chilly, it makes the sound more readily.
I am thinking there are suspension parts in front that need some grease.... and over the years, the grease dried up or something.
Does any one know how to change this filter or filters? It looks like I have to remove the glove box or dash in the area near the filter case. Any help on a easy way to do this job will be appreciated.
I just bought a new Honda Accord 02 EX. I find that the car is a little jerky. It is just slightly better than my '94 Nissan Sentra which apparently needs shocks and struts. Does anybody have this problem? Thanks Venkat
anathema It sounds as if your sway bar bushings need lubing(where the sway bar goes through the bushing on each side). Take the brakets that hold the sway bar bushings off and slide the bushing out put some lube(we use dow corning silicone greese) all over and inside the bushing and re assemble.The links usally do not need any attention but you will want to check them and make sure they are still good also.
inkie The lower panel under the glove box has to come off and then the glove box has to come out. After that you will need to move the lower cross bracket and unclip the cover to remove the filters.
Thank you for your response, I like this Accord its the first foreign car I have owned, but, all this work to change a dust filter. It sounds like they do not want any Shade Tree mechanics owning Hondas. Just owners that take the car to dealers. Anyhow thank you.
Not sure about the I4, but the V6 Accord has a portion of its parts sourced from Japan. I mentioned it before but I was suprised to see that Japan produced cars (at least the Civic) still have the same percentage of domestic/foreign parts as vehicles produced in NA.
Have a 1992 Accord 4cyl 135000 miles, with an overheating problem. Thermostat was stuck, overheated the car and cracked the radiator. Replaced thermostat and radiator, the heater core and the coolant system was filled with a sludge. Flushed the sludge out and the car ran fine for about a month and then started to overheat again. The coolant system is full of this sludge again. Does anyone have any idea as to where this sludge is coming from.
If the sludge is kind of a muddy milky color then you probably have a bad head gasket. Try to run a presure test on the system and see if it leaks down and or start it up with the rad cap off and see if coolant shoots out of the rad.Good luck
trip3564, I purchased a 2000 American built Accord and have not had very good luck with it. I was looking for a Japanese built one but they did not have it in the options and color I wanted. The latest issue has been the interior lights pulsating at low speeds. I've spoken to other Accord owners that have rattles and one with the engine burning oil. I must say it is a nice car to sit in and a very nice engine but I am sad to say my family has had less problems with a 94 GM built car.
cecilia2 I have a 5 speed accord and it runs at 3000 RPM when at 80mph. Unless something is wrong with the speedometer :-)
bigdogil.....I think auburn is right. Bad head gaskets on higher mileage Accords is not uncommon.
inkie---it's really not as much work as it sounds...just more awkward than difficult. These panels come off easily and then it's a matter of wiggling this and that. Take your time and don't force anything and if you get frustrated, then snap it back together and have it done professionally. Just leave enough time for the job and get comfortable while you are scrunched up under there.
they do rattle (at least in the 98-00's)...the lubricant is only a temporary fix. i believe they have to replace a seal to have it work perfectly (which includes taking the sunroof out.. if i understood my service tech completely. have to go in for my 30k service anyway so i will be getting that taken care of at the same time).
btw, what is everyone paying for their 30k maintenance? i've called several places around the d.c. area and have gotten "no more than $300," on up to "$380" for the '00 accord coupe. a friend in mississippi paid around $150 for the same service on his 4 door '00 accord. the prices around here really make you wonder...
I need to replace my right passenger door mirror on 98 Accord EX 4 door. My Honda service shop is quoting around $87.50 for labor only. Wondering if this is a simple task to do. Does one have to remove the inside door panels to get to the screws which hold the mirror?
Here is a new one. I have a 98 Accord V6 The car has 110,000 miles one it. This morning after driving to work I could not get the key out of the ignition. The car turns on and off but the key will not release out of the ignition. The only way the key will be released is if the negative battery terminal is removed, then the key can be removed. Almost sounds like a relay is not re-setting some where but the Honda service manuals do not cover any relays having to do with the ignition system and key. Anybody have any comments ?
I paid $250 for my 30,000 mile service on my 99 Accord. That was with me doing my own oil change and spark plugs. Price is very dependent on what region you are in.
Finally, I decided to go w/ the 02 accord. So far, the car performs well. The engine is very quite, although the tranny doesn't shift as smooth as the old camry. I commute 120 miles everyday. What kind of things should I pay extra attention during the break in period? Thanks!
Your key release is interlocked with the gear position selector. By design, the key cannot be removed unless the selector is in "park" as you probably know. (A second interlock circuit disallows use of the shift selector unless certain conditions of key position and brake activation are met.)
A fairly common problem is that of the gear-position switch contacts fail to make when the selector is placed in "park" due to wear in the linkage or switch mechanism. The switch, located beneath the console, can usually be repositioned to correct the problem. In the meantime, you can probably nudge the selector forward with one hand to compensate for the wear - and simultaneously remove the key with the other hand. Good luck.
Follow what is in the manual since it does a pretty good job of covering the break in period. And go easy on the breaks. Remember not to change the oil since it is treated to help all the parts seat. Oh and gas mileage improves as the miles pile on. Best of luck with your purchase!
Comments
That was my theory, but I wasn't sure of the filter's location. I checked again tonight and the smell has nearly vanished. The car is a 2001 so I will assume its probably not a leak. I will keep tabs on the oil level just in case though.
Thanks for the peace of mind.
This is my first post on this site and I must say that this a great little community you have here. Anyway, I have a '02 EX Coupe with the 4 cylinder. i now have 3000 miles on it and just came back from a long trip. I notice that that there seems to be a rattling noise coming from the center of the dash, by the air conditioner vents (so it seems) its a very small sounding vibration, it is a constant vibration sound, but comes on intermitantly. Any thoughts on what this mught be? It is very annoying. I am ready to beat the hell out of the dashboard! ;-)
Thanks!
My question to any one who may have experienced the front brake caliper cluncking noise: what was the solution if you had it fixed.
IMHO it could be brake piston seal worn out allowing piston to wiggle. Brake pads are around 70% thickness, there is no apparent play b/t the caliper assembly and mounting bolts. Could it be brade pads seats needs grase?? any comments are appreciated
Nothing comes to mind, is there anything that is loose in the area or is it from the vents themselves..
maq4463
You can spray disc brake quiet (sold in a small can at auto parts stores) inbetween the shims and on the back of the pads where the caliper hits it and this will hold the pads in place and keep then from making noise.
cassandra37
There is no actual recalls out on the cat and yes we have seen a few but not alot of them. The warranty on them I believe is 80,000 and that is usally one of those hard mileage things.Meaning at 80,000 not at 80,001. If the code you are getting is for cat deterioration then you probably do need one.
venanzik
No real special tools needed but a door panel popper tool is nice to have but yank and pull works also. You will need a phillips head screw driver also.
accordic
Old age, disturbance of the gasket and or just any old time it feels like it.
I was also wondering if anyone had any trouble with the gas pedal sticking when you first accelerate after starting the car. It seems to only do it when the weather gets colder. Any suggestions? Other than that have not had any problems with the car other than it being hit three times. None of which were my fault thankyouverymuch.
As for the sticky gas pedal this is due to the throttle plate having build up on it and is sticking to the inside of the throttle body. For the best repair you need to take it off the car and clean it from both sides with gumout or carb cleaner...
Disc brake quiet is actually bad thing to do. It acts as an insulator between brake pads and caliper and the build up heat can warp the rotors. The reason for semi-metallic pads was to dispate the heat from disc pad to caliper.
I havent noticed it but I will check it out and see if I see any.
pundat
We have been using it for years and have not had any problems with it at all. Now I am not saying saturate it I was just saying to spray a little.
I have the same noise on my 4 door. Dealer keeps saying it's the alarm siren that is mounted on the fire wall. It's not but they say that and hand me the keys. Oh well. If you figure it out let me know.
We had it done, and the throttle no longer sticks.
Too bad some people go through life thinking everyone is out to cheat them huh?
anyway - after my '98 EX fell apart on me, i dropped honda and went german. i've owned 6 accords in the past and was always (and still am) a big fan of honda engineering. i've decided to buy a house so I've decided to cut my monthly car payments and go back to something that is more fuel efficient. love the german cars but i'm looking to save some $$$ (note that my german cars have not had a single problem in over 50,000 but the V6's are gas hogs - though they are torquey and fun to drive!). a honda is the only japanese marque i would even consider. but as i said, my last experince with a "built in the good 'ol USA" honda was less than stellar.
in 1 year and less than 20,000 miles: clutch slave cylinder was replaced, brake master cylinder was replaced, fuel system problem that made the engine vibrate like a paint mixer in the winter, a squeaky sunroof close and opened, a "tea kettle" whistle from the rear of the car even when at a stop that the dealer couldn't diagnose, and the list goes on. the final straw was a set of warped front rotors at 20,000 miles that were considered consumable items that I was supposed to pay for. (interestingly enough, ford had a problem with their front rotors that year also. same part supplier!?!?!)
how has the overall quality of american built accords been? the materials in my brothers [non-permissible content removed] built prelude were noticably better than my last accord as was the structural integrity - not a squeak even after all these years. i'd love to be in a honda again but i am convinced there is a big difference in an american built car and a japanese built car. your feed back and thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I noticed that when the speedometer says im going 80 its really 70..i called the dealer and he said that all hondas when going 80 the tachometer reads at 3..is that right?,
So far my Accord has been as trouble free as my timex watch. I try to do preventive maintenance as much as I can.
Lately I hear squeaky noise coming from the driver side of the front end. I usually (like 80% of the time) hear it when I go over a speed bump. It matters little whether I go over it fast or slowly; the noise is still made. The sound is like a rubber part rubbing against another rubber part. Unless driven hard, there is no noise when driving. It always makes the sounds over the bumps. Also, when it's chilly, it makes the sound more readily.
I am thinking there are suspension parts in front that need some grease.... and over the years, the grease dried up or something.
Any info will be appreciated.
Thank you.
Thanks
Venkat
It sounds as if your sway bar bushings need lubing(where the sway bar goes through the bushing on each side). Take the brakets that hold the sway bar bushings off and slide the bushing out put some lube(we use dow corning silicone greese) all over and inside the bushing and re assemble.The links usally do not need any attention but you will want to check them and make sure they are still good also.
inkie
The lower panel under the glove box has to come off and then the glove box has to come out. After that you will need to move the lower cross bracket and unclip the cover to remove the filters.
Maybe you can find something reliable like a restored VW Beetle. When they broke down, at least they were easy to repair.
I purchased a 2000 American built Accord and have not had very good luck with it. I was looking for a Japanese built one but they did not have it in the options and color I wanted. The latest issue has been the interior lights pulsating at low speeds. I've spoken to other Accord owners that have rattles and one with the engine burning oil. I must say it is a nice car to sit in and a very nice engine but I am sad to say my family has had less problems with a 94 GM built car.
cecilia2
I have a 5 speed accord and it runs at 3000 RPM when at 80mph. Unless something is wrong with the speedometer :-)
inkie---it's really not as much work as it sounds...just more awkward than difficult. These panels come off easily and then it's a matter of wiggling this and that. Take your time and don't force anything and if you get frustrated, then snap it back together and have it done professionally. Just leave enough time for the job and get comfortable while you are scrunched up under there.
btw,
what is everyone paying for their 30k maintenance? i've called several places around the d.c. area and have gotten "no more than $300," on up to "$380" for the '00 accord coupe. a friend in mississippi paid around $150 for the same service on his 4 door '00 accord. the prices around here really make you wonder...
A fairly common problem is that of the gear-position switch contacts fail to make when the selector is placed in "park" due to wear in the linkage or switch mechanism. The switch, located beneath the console, can usually be repositioned to correct the problem. In the meantime, you can probably nudge the selector forward with one hand to compensate for the wear - and simultaneously remove the key with the other hand. Good luck.