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Comments
That was my theory, but I wasn't sure of the filter's location. I checked again tonight and the smell has nearly vanished. The car is a 2001 so I will assume its probably not a leak. I will keep tabs on the oil level just in case though.
Thanks for the peace of mind.
This is my first post on this site and I must say that this a great little community you have here. Anyway, I have a '02 EX Coupe with the 4 cylinder. i now have 3000 miles on it and just came back from a long trip. I notice that that there seems to be a rattling noise coming from the center of the dash, by the air conditioner vents (so it seems) its a very small sounding vibration, it is a constant vibration sound, but comes on intermitantly. Any thoughts on what this mught be? It is very annoying. I am ready to beat the hell out of the dashboard! ;-)
Thanks!
My question to any one who may have experienced the front brake caliper cluncking noise: what was the solution if you had it fixed.
IMHO it could be brake piston seal worn out allowing piston to wiggle. Brake pads are around 70% thickness, there is no apparent play b/t the caliper assembly and mounting bolts. Could it be brade pads seats needs grase?? any comments are appreciated
Nothing comes to mind, is there anything that is loose in the area or is it from the vents themselves..
maq4463
You can spray disc brake quiet (sold in a small can at auto parts stores) inbetween the shims and on the back of the pads where the caliper hits it and this will hold the pads in place and keep then from making noise.
cassandra37
There is no actual recalls out on the cat and yes we have seen a few but not alot of them. The warranty on them I believe is 80,000 and that is usally one of those hard mileage things.Meaning at 80,000 not at 80,001. If the code you are getting is for cat deterioration then you probably do need one.
venanzik
No real special tools needed but a door panel popper tool is nice to have but yank and pull works also. You will need a phillips head screw driver also.
accordic
Old age, disturbance of the gasket and or just any old time it feels like it.
I was also wondering if anyone had any trouble with the gas pedal sticking when you first accelerate after starting the car. It seems to only do it when the weather gets colder. Any suggestions? Other than that have not had any problems with the car other than it being hit three times. None of which were my fault thankyouverymuch.
As for the sticky gas pedal this is due to the throttle plate having build up on it and is sticking to the inside of the throttle body. For the best repair you need to take it off the car and clean it from both sides with gumout or carb cleaner...
Disc brake quiet is actually bad thing to do. It acts as an insulator between brake pads and caliper and the build up heat can warp the rotors. The reason for semi-metallic pads was to dispate the heat from disc pad to caliper.
I havent noticed it but I will check it out and see if I see any.
pundat
We have been using it for years and have not had any problems with it at all. Now I am not saying saturate it I was just saying to spray a little.
I have the same noise on my 4 door. Dealer keeps saying it's the alarm siren that is mounted on the fire wall. It's not but they say that and hand me the keys. Oh well. If you figure it out let me know.
We had it done, and the throttle no longer sticks.
Too bad some people go through life thinking everyone is out to cheat them huh?
anyway - after my '98 EX fell apart on me, i dropped honda and went german. i've owned 6 accords in the past and was always (and still am) a big fan of honda engineering. i've decided to buy a house so I've decided to cut my monthly car payments and go back to something that is more fuel efficient. love the german cars but i'm looking to save some $$$ (note that my german cars have not had a single problem in over 50,000 but the V6's are gas hogs - though they are torquey and fun to drive!). a honda is the only japanese marque i would even consider. but as i said, my last experince with a "built in the good 'ol USA" honda was less than stellar.
in 1 year and less than 20,000 miles: clutch slave cylinder was replaced, brake master cylinder was replaced, fuel system problem that made the engine vibrate like a paint mixer in the winter, a squeaky sunroof close and opened, a "tea kettle" whistle from the rear of the car even when at a stop that the dealer couldn't diagnose, and the list goes on. the final straw was a set of warped front rotors at 20,000 miles that were considered consumable items that I was supposed to pay for. (interestingly enough, ford had a problem with their front rotors that year also. same part supplier!?!?!)
how has the overall quality of american built accords been? the materials in my brothers [non-permissible content removed] built prelude were noticably better than my last accord as was the structural integrity - not a squeak even after all these years. i'd love to be in a honda again but i am convinced there is a big difference in an american built car and a japanese built car. your feed back and thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I noticed that when the speedometer says im going 80 its really 70..i called the dealer and he said that all hondas when going 80 the tachometer reads at 3..is that right?,
So far my Accord has been as trouble free as my timex watch. I try to do preventive maintenance as much as I can.
Lately I hear squeaky noise coming from the driver side of the front end. I usually (like 80% of the time) hear it when I go over a speed bump. It matters little whether I go over it fast or slowly; the noise is still made. The sound is like a rubber part rubbing against another rubber part. Unless driven hard, there is no noise when driving. It always makes the sounds over the bumps. Also, when it's chilly, it makes the sound more readily.
I am thinking there are suspension parts in front that need some grease.... and over the years, the grease dried up or something.
Any info will be appreciated.
Thank you.
Thanks
Venkat
It sounds as if your sway bar bushings need lubing(where the sway bar goes through the bushing on each side). Take the brakets that hold the sway bar bushings off and slide the bushing out put some lube(we use dow corning silicone greese) all over and inside the bushing and re assemble.The links usally do not need any attention but you will want to check them and make sure they are still good also.
inkie
The lower panel under the glove box has to come off and then the glove box has to come out. After that you will need to move the lower cross bracket and unclip the cover to remove the filters.
Maybe you can find something reliable like a restored VW Beetle. When they broke down, at least they were easy to repair.
I purchased a 2000 American built Accord and have not had very good luck with it. I was looking for a Japanese built one but they did not have it in the options and color I wanted. The latest issue has been the interior lights pulsating at low speeds. I've spoken to other Accord owners that have rattles and one with the engine burning oil. I must say it is a nice car to sit in and a very nice engine but I am sad to say my family has had less problems with a 94 GM built car.
cecilia2
I have a 5 speed accord and it runs at 3000 RPM when at 80mph. Unless something is wrong with the speedometer :-)
inkie---it's really not as much work as it sounds...just more awkward than difficult. These panels come off easily and then it's a matter of wiggling this and that. Take your time and don't force anything and if you get frustrated, then snap it back together and have it done professionally. Just leave enough time for the job and get comfortable while you are scrunched up under there.
btw,
what is everyone paying for their 30k maintenance? i've called several places around the d.c. area and have gotten "no more than $300," on up to "$380" for the '00 accord coupe. a friend in mississippi paid around $150 for the same service on his 4 door '00 accord. the prices around here really make you wonder...
A fairly common problem is that of the gear-position switch contacts fail to make when the selector is placed in "park" due to wear in the linkage or switch mechanism. The switch, located beneath the console, can usually be repositioned to correct the problem. In the meantime, you can probably nudge the selector forward with one hand to compensate for the wear - and simultaneously remove the key with the other hand. Good luck.