Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

12357…256

Comments

  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Em5,
    Sounds to me as if you Power brake assist booster is not working properly, as if it has a vacuum leak or bad check valve.Definitly keep going back until they fix it for you, if necessary let them keep the car overnight and explain to them or show up in the A.M. and show them how to make it happen.
    Yoda209,
    I don't really understand your problem. If possible could you try to explain it again or if there is another post (other than the 2 previous)
    let me know where.What did you mean by. "If you do not change
    the throttle setting it will just slow down to
    almost a creep."Start at the begining I guess descibing your problem, if you dont mind. You can leave out what the dealer has done since it didnt fix anything yet or if it did fix it for a while then maybe you should have them do it again..
  • 1chefwill1chefwill Member Posts: 4
    i drive a '98 accord 4 cylinders. it now has 30k miles. it drives great except that it burns engine oil. it's not leaking oil. it now burns 3/4 of a quart of oil for every 1k miles of driving. i took it to the dealer many times, but they say it's fine. it is within the honda guidelines. i believe it is excessive oil burning. does anyone have this problem? i noticed it at around 8k miles.
  • spaceinvaderspaceinvader Member Posts: 22
    I have read many posts that identify automatic transmission problems with the Accord. I would just like to say that my 2000 Accord V6 LX model has approximately 4,000 miles logged with absolutely no transmission problems. The only adjustment made to the car involved a slightly misalinged trunk lid. That problem was corrected by the dealer in less than 5 minutes. Based on my experience so far I would strongly recommend this vehicle. The engine runs silky smooth and is getting about 23 MPG in the city on regular fuel or about 3 mpg higher than expected.
  • yoda209yoda209 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for reply.
    O.K. a 1998 Accord V6 LX automatic.
    The car mostly runs fine. But now and then (frequency of occurance goes up and down) You start driving and as you leave a stop sign the rpms reach maybe 2000 or so the car starts slowing. If you punch it it will take off (after downshifting). If you just hold the throttle where it was when slowing started the RPMs will drop to idle before the car starts to accelerate again. The forward motion doesn't stop completely,
    but maybe to 5 MPH. It also will occur sometimes while cruising. Then we just press down or downshift to get it going. Have taken it in numerous times and they find nothing and of course it won't do it for them. And apparently they find no fault code. They say everything is in spec. and they find no problem. They drove it 99 miles the other day and it didn't do it. Did it to me 4 times on way home.
  • suckyhondasuckyhonda Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the same symptoms as em5 and Yoda. Post # 209 describes it very well. After reviewing the service manual I would say its fuel system related, but I'm afraid of dealing with the dealer again. Previously I've had a bad experience at my Honda repair facility. That's another story (Transmission, PCV, EGR, Manifold). I would really like some insight to this problem. I've seen multilple post on this hesitation problem but no clear resolution or troulbleshooting tips. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Yoda209,
    I will look in the service bulletin areas and on the Hondanet but I dont remember seeing your complaints. There is or was a problem with the winter fuel and some Hondas in certain areas.I dont think any areas are still using it durring the summer and I think it is too early for its return so I wouldnt think it was that.The only thing I can think of is a faulty throttle position switch(tps) and you are catching it in the right spot and they are not.The tps goes from 9% closed to 100% fully open and everything else inbetween. Possibly you are hitting a spot at partial throtle that is reading closed instead of lets say 45%.I would suggest asking to take an extended road test with a tech or the service rep.Durring this road test have the PGMFI machine hooked up and monitoring the tps and other key sensor readings.Try to take this road test at the most comon time for it to act up.

    Suckyhonda and possibly even yoda,
    If the hesitation you feel is a one time a day thing and within the first few miles of driving as the engine is warming up then that is a normal characteristic that you can do nothing about.However if it happens several times a day at differant times then I would suggest you do the same as the first part of this post.Unfortunatly on this problem tech line needs to know what certain sensors are doing when this happens.If it is a case of winter fuel causing the problem then there is a fix for this..
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I havent seen any of them using oil although as you have been told Honda says 1qt per 1,000 miles is normal. I also think this is high, are you using 5w-30 motor oil or synthetic?Do you see it smoke at all? Keep track of it on a weekly basis and go back and complain....good luck
  • yoda209yoda209 Member Posts: 5
    This is a Calif. car and we have MTBE in the fuel year round. I'd hate to find out the MTBE is the problem. I'm already upset about MTBE messing up the water out here :O) This problem will occur anytime and several times a day. Then it will go away for a while. That's what makes it so hard to show them what it does. I'll print out these posts so I can tell them about all the things you've mentioned. Thanks very much.
  • suckyhondasuckyhonda Member Posts: 2
    I'm in South Florida and have had the hesitation event happen after refilling the tank with fuel from a vendor I don't norally use (Shell versus Cheveron). What's in the winterized fuel? What's the fix for the winterized fuel situation? I'll check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltages at closed and open throttle and throughout the full range. I understand the voltage should vary between 0.5-1.0 closed and about 4 fully open. Will I see the miss as a voltage drop when the TPS fails. I usually see this hesitation/stall at or slightly above 2000 RPM, any gear. Thanks for all your help.
  • 1chefwill1chefwill Member Posts: 4
    honda dealer changes my oil and they use 10w-30 motor oil and honda oil filter. i don't see smoke at the tailpipe. my accord is a 5-speed manual. yes, you are right. i don't have much recourse. it's burning less than 1 qt. per 1,000 miles so it's "normal". i have went back to the dealer many times and complain but to no avail. do you think it's a good idea to use stop engine oil burning products in my car? or use a thicker motor oil like 20w-50 to slow down the oil burning? as the car gets older, it will burn more oil.
  • bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    Don't change to 20W50 in a Honda. It will not lubricate the engine properly and will cause more wear. Thicker is not always better.

    Bruce
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I believe the tps will vary from .9 closed to 5v fully open if I remember correctly. As you press down on the gas pedal you should see a steady increase with no drop offs.As for the winter fuel I dont think you would be using it in Florida but I will try to check and see if there is a map for the affected areas.The fix cures a fuel boiling problem by replacing the fuel pressure regulator and the ECM(computer).

    I would start bringing in at the next oil change 4.5qts of a quality brand oil @ 5w-30 and see if that helps...They probably use bulk oil and may not be of the best quality.Also ask to speak to the Honda rep and let him/her know you expected more out of your car than this and see what he/she says.Good luck
  • 1chefwill1chefwill Member Posts: 4
    thanks so much for the input. the honda dealer uses gastrol motor oil. before, i changed my own oil and i use penzoil oil. my car still burns oil. the oil is not the problem. i believe it has to do with the engine--the piston rings or the cylinders are too big and the oil is getting burn with the gas.
  • acmeroadrunnracmeroadrunnr Member Posts: 81
    Boy, you learn something new everyday. I thought the dealer used a premium oil. My dealer even has Kendall icons on every page of the warranty manual. I think I will start changing my own oil from now on. Can someone tell me how to locate and get to the oil filter in 2k i4 please?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Your dealer may use a good grade of bulk oil then. I know we do at our shop.It was just a thought for his problem.Anyhow you need to be able to get up under your car as the oil filter is on the backside of the block just above the axle shaft.It uses the normal size oil filter wrench and is not real tough to get to.Have fun and remember to change your drain plug washer, it is aluminum and made to crush only once..
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I am preparing to change the coolant in my wife's 97 Accord LX 4 cylinder. Can you tell me where the drain plug on the block is located?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    There is a drain valve in the radiator that is used for servicing the coolant.However if you want to drain the block I think there is a 17 or 19mm drain plug on the front of the block, I think it is to the left of the exaust manifold.The next 97 I get in I will check to be sure..
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I normally just drain the radiator and refill, but the manual says to remove the drain plug on the block as well. The picture in the manual shows the plug to the left of and below the oil filter, but I don't remember seeing it before when I have changed the oil. I'll look for it tomorrow. Thanks.
  • titopuentetitopuente Member Posts: 46
    I went away for a month for vacation and left my 2000 Accord SE in my garage without ever running it. Today, I turned on the starter but let go before the engine would fire a few times before actually starting the car. The engine was abnormally noisy when I first started it but it was fine afterwards. I then drove slowly for about 5 miles. Did I do the right thing? what else should I do? or should I not worry at all?
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    I would suggest using one of the national brands-my preference is Castrol 5-30 but there maybe little difference between brands. Use a quality filter-not the orange one-I use AC Delco Duragard-same price as orange one but a quality product. Change the oil when the engine is hot. You will need to jack the vehicle up to get to the filter-always put a jack stand under the vehicle and only hand tighten the filter. Dispose of the oil properly-I always find a garage that burns it for heat.

    As far as replacing the aluminum crush washer on the oil drain plug-bought 5 replacement aluminum crush washers 20 years ago-still got them and have changed oil on a variety of Honda's for over 400K and only a slight leak and never had to add oil to any of them. Current 97 accord has 105K and does not leak or burn any oil-original crush washer.
  • mike_civicmike_civic Member Posts: 1
    Since you hadn't used your Accord in a month, the battery had lost power, the noise you heard was most likely the alternator recharging the battery; so, your car should be fine.
  • florida4florida4 Member Posts: 2
    I notice various discussion on changing the oil and filter. No one has mentioned resetting the "MAINT REQ'D" light on the instrument cluster. Is this a computer reset or manual? I have the 2000 Accord V6.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    I have a 2k LX V6 and the owner's manual describes how to reset that light. "Turn off engine, press and hold select/reset button..., then turn the ignition switch ON(II). Hold the buttons for about ten seconds, until the indicator resets."
    Hope this helps.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    You must REALLY be a frugal person...Or I don't understand.

    Honda reccomends replacing the 20 cent crush washer every time...right? You have five washers that you have been saving for 20 years, yet you won't use them?

    What am I missing here?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I was wrong, the drain bolt is in the back of the block to the left of the oil filter.It should be there I saw one there today when I was doing a sevice.Have fun..

    Isellhondas,
    I guess people just like to do things there way.Keep crushing and crushing till they cant get it off.AAAAhhhhhh maybe that it is how it all starts. :)
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Why did you crank the starter but let go before the engine fired up, and you did this a few times?
    Was that something someone had recommended doing to an engine that has been sitting for an extended period?
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I used to never change the crush washer, until I stripped out the threads in the oil pan on my motorcycle. That few cents savings ending up costing over $250!!! Honda and Auburn63 know what they are talking about!!!!
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I figure that using Honda filters and fluids costs me about $20-$25 more per year vs generic brands. When you compare this to the total cost of owning an automobile it is almost nothing.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    What does using the same crush washer for 20 years have to do with cross threading your drain plug. Yeah I am cheap-use what I save to take diving/sailing trips around the world.

    By the way-I wonder what % of drain plugs get cross threaded by the quick oil change guys. Really admire all those brave people going to those places. Enjoy going in and seeing what specials they are offering. Latest was cleaning out all that gunky gasoline.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Pretty simple...They are designed to "crush" when pressure is applied. As a result, it isn't necessary to overtighten the plug to stop it from dripping. They only effectvely "crush" once. After that, they are flattened out.

    Sorry, Butch, in my opinion, it's false economy to take a chance stripping out a 200.00 oil pan by skipping a lousy 20 cent washer!

    Especially when you have a supply of them!

    And...cross threading the oil plug is different than stripping it by overtightening it to stop a drip.

    And you call that "saving" money?

    I still don't understand.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    You are right. I never cross threaded the drain plug, just tightened it to the point of pulling the threads because I was too stupid to go get another crush washer.

    I have learned from my mistakes, but guess some others won't.
  • titopuentetitopuente Member Posts: 46
    I did that because I did not want to damage the engine. I don't know If what I did was necessary. I figured that since the engine was sitting for a month, the oil would drain downwards and exposing the cylinder heads, valves and other moving parts. By cranking the engine withou firing it, I figured that it would generate some oil pressure and allow the oil to move into the upper area.

    It was just something I thought of out of the whim and to Auburn (the expert in the room) it may be the stupidest thing in the world but that made sense to me.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I never(well almost never) think that what people do is stuppid.I dont think it was necessary but it wasn't stuppid.Next time try it with out doing that and see if the same thing happens...
  • newcar74newcar74 Member Posts: 19
    ISell: I have got an Accord SE recently.
    Please let me know what should be the fair price for the HOnda's single cd player installed by Dealer ??
  • florida4florida4 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for reminding me to read the manual carefully. I went past that page when I scanned through the book.
  • srayersrayer Member Posts: 11
    1st off thanks to everyone for making this forum
    such a great resource. I have learnt a lot just
    by browsing/reading.

    1. Ok, here's my problem. Whenever I take slow
    left turns (< 15mph) in my 88 Accord DX 2dr,
    I get a very strange clunking sound from
    passenger side wheel. Took the car to
    Honda service center. They checked out CV
    Boot & Joint. Both OK. Checked out out axle
    that is also ok. They don't know what is causing
    noise, but say car is in otherwise good shape.
    Any ideas what could be causing the noise?

    2. Recently spent $900 to fix A/C.
    My Accord has 147k miles on it. I really do
    love the car, but it's getting old. I am
    debating either trade in this car for a new Accord EX 4dr or keep it. Car has sentimental value, but after years of being exposed to Arizona sun, clear coat is coming off, and the car does have lots of scratches and dings. The interior is quite good.
    I'm not sure if I should keep the car or purchase
    a new Accord. If I decide to purchase new Accord
    is there any reason I should wait for 2001 model?
    I keep going back and forth on this decision, and I have to admit it's more emotionally based than
    practical, so I would appreciate hearing your
    thoughts and comments? What do you think the best course of action would be?

    a. Keep current car?
    b. Get new Accord?
  • rt4rt4 Member Posts: 13
    Auburn63----In post #575 dated June 13th, you gave "MMO4" instructions for his '94 accord. Would exactly the same apply for a '93, and if so, where is the bleeder valve? I notice at the base of the modulator there is a very small red plastic or perhaps rubber cover--- is this perchance covering the bld.valve? As a side note, I called the dealer and talked to the service rep. and he said "it's either the mod. valve, or the pump, and either one will cost you about a grand". Hmmmmm---I then called an independent garage whom up to this point I trusted, and he said the same thing. The car of course runs fine with the light on, and it will have to remain on if indeed, it costs that much to repair. One more thing that perhaps you should know: new brakes were installed a few months before the lt. came on---could they have broken a sensor or anything else that might cause this condition? The car has 76k miles and is running great! Thanks in advance!
  • srayersrayer Member Posts: 11
    Accidentally deleted reply..sorry. Thanks for
    your quick response. I will ask Honda Tech about ball joint the next time I go into service. I
    can afford new Accord, but have to decide once
    and for all to part ways with old car.

    One question though. Is there any reason I
    should wait for a 2001 model vs a 2000? other
    than traction control and cosmetic changes
    I am not aware of any differences. Any info
    or insight you may have on the 2001 Accord
    would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again
    for taking the time to respond to my question.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    The 2001 Accord will also have an in-dash 6-disc CD changer + cassette. And I think also a power passenger seat although I didn't see that listed on Honda's web site. The audio upgrade is nice but I don't know how much of a price increase there will be for 2001. Personally I use the cassette less and less and very rarely do I actually load 6 discs into the changer ( I have a CLS)
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    When a CV joint starts going-it is tough to diagnose the problem till it gets really loud. You put the car on a lift and can not get anything to happen. One good thing about a CV joint failure-they get really loud before they completely fail-one friend's CV joint was actually disengaging when he made a sharp turn. That you can really hear.

    You should check the front wheel bearing-it can make strange noises when you turn. Raise the front wheels off the ground and do the 12/6 and 9/3 o'clock tug and if you get excessive wiggle, your wheel bearing maybe fried. A wheel bearing failure can ruin your whole day/life.

    Your problem sounds like a CV joint-all it takes is a few miles with a split boot-and they are gone. Let us know what you find.
  • srayersrayer Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the tip about the wheel bearing.
    I will try your suggestion and let you know
    what I find. Since my car is already scheduled
    for an oil change later next week I will have
    the Honda Techs take a look at the bearings as
    well and see what they say. So far this noise
    has the Honda Techs stumped! I will let you
    know what they & I find out. Thanks again for
    you suggestions...
  • srayersrayer Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for your input. The Cassette/CD combo wouldn't be too bad, but Honda Factory stereos never have been that good. Do you agree? I
    have reservations about replacing the factory
    stereo though since I think Honda put audio
    controls onto the steering wheel for 2001.
    Is that right? If that is so, then replacing
    the stereo could mean sacrificing the use of
    the audio controls on the wheel? I had a chance
    to look at pictures of 2001, and I have to agree
    with the sentiment, that the car looks more like
    a Camry. What a shame!
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Unfortunately I don't have enough technical knowledge to say whether the steering wheel controls can be wired to an after-market stereo, but I would venture to guess that you could. I too would be hesitant about replacing the factory stereo. Unless you also replace all the speakers you probably wouldn't get much of an upgrade in sound quality. My experience is that the limiting factor is the factory speakers. I agree that the 2001 style is nothing to write home about, unless it looks more impressive in the flesh. BTW, if one of your criteria is a high quality factory stereo, check out the Bose system in a Maxima, or the Infinity I30. I think it's the best sounding factory system this side of $50K. Especially when you crank up the volume. And the Maxima is not that much more than a Accord EXV6 price-wise.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If I remember correctly without checking a book the bleeder is the valve with the red cover.Pull it off and see if it looks like one.However I think you will be able to bleed it without opening that valve.Pull the abs fluid cover off and add fluid(if necessary).Pull the screen out of the reservoir and put your finger in and find the tower like thing that the screen goes around.As you jump the relay and make the motor run you want to cover the opening in the tower with your finger until all the bubles come out and you feel the pressure under your finger.Dont hold it so tight that the presure cant come out just hold lightly over it. You can jump the relay in the underhood abs box by pulling the relay out and jumping across the two bigger connectors with the key on.
    Now with that said I think I should have said this first.Does the light come on and go off after start up.Then come back on after 30 seconds or so? Or does it come on and stay on? If it comes on and goes off then back on again it is a presurization problem most likely.The bleed may fix this.If it comes on and stays on then you may have a bad sensor or wiring and yes they could have broken a sensor or damaged this durring a brake job if they were not carefull exspecialy if they removed the rotors from the car to cut them.Good luck
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    2001 Accords have arrived at our shop.They came in last week so you should have a long wait if they are not at your dealer yet.I also agree with Butch about the joints being tricky at times to diagnose and the way you descibed it sounds just like a cv. However we are not there and the techs are so hopefully they will find it.
  • rt4rt4 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the advice----yes, the light does come on very briefly, goes out, the comes on again. Will try what you suggest and see what happens. The abs res. and the brake res. are both up to the proper level, so the system is not leaking.
  • srayersrayer Member Posts: 11
    Looks like my local dealer has a few 2001's,
    so I'm off to take a look at them today. The
    model/config I'm really interested in is the
    EX 5spd Manual, but they seem pretty rare.
    Wish me luck!

    I have heard that the Maxima has a great stereo,
    but I don't like the way the car looks compared
    to the Accord. Don't you think the back end is
    strange? The only good thing is that you can
    get a manual with a 6cyl engine. Too bad Honda
    doesn't offer one as well. The thought of having
    a 200hp Vtech engine mated with a manual makes my mouth water. Maybe someday Honda will make that dream come true? Thanks for the insight though.
  • rt4rt4 Member Posts: 13
    Did as you said, however there is no "tower" that the screen sits upon.With the screen removed, I ran the abs motor---at least I think I did----heard a very slight noise (whine) when jumping the 2 relay posts. Saw no bubbles in the abs reservoir. When I get a few minutes, I'll try the bleed method you previously mentioned.
  • hondaman18hondaman18 Member Posts: 5
    When I open my sunshade, but leave the sunroof closed, there is a rattling that goes on around the sunshade, sounds like the little wheel bearings inside are rattling, is this normal? When I close the sunshade, no problems, and of course when I open the sunroof, because of wind noise, I can't hear the rattle. If anybody could check if this happens to their vehicle. I have a 2000 coupe v6 ex
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    rt4,
    I will have to check now but I may not be describing it well for you because I am almost sure there is something in there where the fluid returns to the resavoir.I think if you remove the screen you should see a cut out to allow this piece to come up into the screen area.I could be wrong though so i will check.In the meantime you can open that bleader and that will also bleed it. If I remember though it doesnt do as good of a job.After you are done if the light stays out you should go out and find some sand or wet road and give it a funtion test.The solenoids need to be excersised every now and then or they tend to stick..Good luck and sorry if I was wrong but I will check.

    Hondaman,
    If you go to your Honda dealer and get a tube of Shin Etsu greese and lube the sunroof seal all around the noise will go away.If you sit in your car and push up on the rear side of the sunroof you will probably hear the same noise it makes on the road and this can be cured by using the lube..
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.