Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

jrct9454 · July 2002

There can be lots of other things wrong besides low refridg levels - in fact, that would be close to the bottom of my list of starting suspects. You need to get to a dealer and have them check the system - evap problems, expansion valve...lots of other possibilities.

bburton1 · July 2002

Yeah I got 73K out of a set of them-still plenty of tread left-no where near the tread wear indicators. Somebody said they did not like to put a slow speed rating on their accord. Well I used to drive across MO on I70 from KC to St. L. Now the speed limit is 70 and you can cruise at 85 and the cops won't bother you. Had one trip across in the summer-ran the 300+ miles at 85 plus and in open areas over 100 and when I got to the outskirts of St. L-stopped for gas. Touched the X-One's and they were not hot. If someone only gets 30-40K out of either the MXV4's or X-one's, they have got to be sliding around corners. My current x-One's have 63K on them-just changed oil and checked them-still have at least 20K of tread left on them.

Lots of good tires out there but until I encounter something really outstanding-am sticking to X-One's.

mentiya · July 2002

Thank you very much.

mikegold_1966 · July 2002

Absolutely the best tires I have ever owned. Wouldn't even consider another tire for any of my cars.

cappy1 · July 2002

I own a 1992 Accord, 4-door EX. I have had problems with the car starting after it has been shut off for a short time, such as when I run into the Post Office or dry cleaner. If I wait a few minutes, it will then start up and run fine. I have taken it to a couple of mechanics but get the same comment: "It has to happen while I have it...". Of course, it never does. Any ideas why the car won't start after a brief shut off?

maxhonda99 · July 2002

bodydouble, My mistake, Yes, I have 205/60-16 MXV4 tires. I mistakenly also said H-rated tires, when in fact they are V-rated tires. But the MXV4's are soo pathetic that I believed all this time they were H-rated. When I discovered yesterday, they were V-rated, I couldn't stop laughing.

mike1qaz · July 2002

It is indeed possible to get high mileage out of these tires, as bburton has said. I currently have 72k+ and the wear bars are still not showing. Looks like another 8-10k left.

Like others, I'm also on the lookout for a quieter ride. I'm glad to hear about the x-ones good ride, and wet traction is a must in southern Louisiana, but I don't want to give up the handling that we've all become accustomed to with the accord.
Could some of you that have switched from the mxv4's to the x-ones please comment about the handling characteristics of this tire. I'm well past my street-racer days, but I still enjoy the feeling of confidence that this car has with the H-rated tires and am concerned that the T-rated x-ones will be too compliant.

beachnut · July 2002

nah, I'm not doing any sliding around here! When I said 30-40K miles was all you should get, that was for the mxv4's, not the x-ones, sorry. I would think one could hopefully go 50-60K on the x-ones, though I'm wondering if maybe you and mike1qaz could get over 100K miles!

Yep, I would also like to hear comments on the oem mxv4 -> x-one switch, specifically in handling, cornering, and drive comfort.

bburton1 · July 2002

That is exactly the switch I made-got sold by guys in a chain tire store. The control the X-One's give is absolutely fantastic. The handling of my accord went from pretty good to increibly responsive with the X-One's. The MXV4's squalled like a stuck pig on corners-had this one hard left turn to make and at any speed at all - it was awful but same corner with X-One and nada peep.

Somebody with a whole bunch of knowledge on tire construction precisely identified why this happened-something about the tread not being in contact with the road. This also causes the MXV4 to break loose really quickly and when it breaks-you butt is all over the road-you can not recover. Now have gone into some hairly slides with the X-One's and recovery is easy-had several slides with the MXV4's and there is no way in hell of getting control back. Really hated the MXV4's after experiencing the X-One's. Really superior in any driving condition. Now quiet they are not but I think that is a fault of honda more than the X-One. Road expansion joints are really noisey-course I keep my tires at the max pressure-that makes any bump even louder.

The X-One's will really increase the road handling capabilities of your accord. When I switched it was in the middle of summer and even with perfect driving conditions the differences in control and handling were awesome. Some people however will not notice any difference due to their driving style and awareness level. I wonder why Michelin continues with the MXV4. Must be one of those OEM deals-the car manufacturer beats the tire maker to death on price leaving nada to build a quality product.

So if you wanna experience a real pucker factor-buy some MXV4's-a thrill is guaranteed if you push the envelope.

isellhondas · July 2002

O.K. I'm sold. I'll look for a set of X-ones when the time comes.

Still...you must be one agressive driver!

ridgeracer · July 2002

Hey all. I have an 89 LX-I that starts up and idles ok but as soon as you drive it and come to a stop it starts to idle below limits and tries to stall. Then after a minute or so it's back to normal. I get no check engine light. This would happen with the a/c on or off. Could it be the fast idle valve...?? I noticed once when I started it cold it idled at 1500 rpms then after 2 minutes, quickly dropped to about 800 rpm. Usually it gradually comes down. Thanks for any help...

auburn63 · July 2002

40*f off idle and 42-47 at idle is about as good as they get. Recerc is the best summer position for max cold air and those temps on recerc are good. If it seems warm try checking the heater control knob they tend to break. To check pull it off and look at the backside for cracks. Other than that freon and temp cable adjustments could eb the problem but again if you are getting 40*F out of the center vents then it is good.

auburn63 · July 2002

It could be many things but I have seen more tw sensors than anything else cause this problem. The fast idle valve can leak and cause problems but usally this leads to an erratic up and down idle or no high idle when cold at all. Could also be an idle control valve but I would look into and test the tw sensor first. Good luck

auburn63 · July 2002

Your most likely cause is the main relay. The main relay signals the ECU and powers the fuel pump and they do tend to fail in hot temps and hot re-starts. The other possible cause would be the tw sensor but that is as a secound guess.

ridgeracer · July 2002

Thanks Auburn63....I never considered the tw sensor. What i'll probably do is order the tw sensor and idle control valve then try each separately to see if the problem is corrected. Any other suggestions come to mind overnight...??

ridgeracer · July 2002

Did some more troubleshooting today with the car. I turned the engine on and let it sit and idle for about 10-15 minutes. When I went back to the car, I noticed the check engine light on. I then turned on the A/C and noticed the RPMs dip a little. When you rev the engine the RPMs oscillate for about 6-7 seconds before settle back to normal idle speed..?!?! With the A/C off and a rev of the engine it come down below idle spec then comes up. Then when I turned the engine off and start it again, no check engine light... Could it be the EACV and TW sensor...? I have no idea where the jumper is located (if any) to pull the code from the ECU. I also noticed for some time when you turn the steering wheel the idle severely drops. I was thinking that I need a PS sensor. Sorry for the long posts. Just trying to get this car fixed for my sister. I'm a little more familiar with 4th gen Accords...

ticos · July 2002

I hope some of you might be able to help me with my Accord's problem. I have a 98 Accord V-6 and just came back from vacation. The car was parked without use for 11 days and now will not start. When I try to start it I do hear the engine turning but it never goes beyond that.
The battery does seem to have enough power to turn the engine so I think the battery might not be the case (it is the original battery though).
Any opinions on what might be causing this and how I can correct it? Your help is greatly appreciated.

mikefm58 · July 2002

I had a vibration problem with my '99 CRV, the crap stock Bridgestone Duelers were getting bald after 50K miles. I researched everything at tirerack.com and ended up getting a set of X-Ones, bought them at Wal-Mart for less than $500. out-the-door. They're installation is $9.76 per tire, includes mount, balance, new stems, lifetime rotation, and lifetime balance. Yeah, I know what you're saying, "Tires at Wal-Mart?", but heck it doesn't take an expert mechanic to mount/balance tires. I just made sure they torque'ed them to specs. and checked the pressure when I got home.

Awesome tire for the wet Florida weather here, and no more vibration.

mikefm58 · July 2002

Wal-Mart also gives you lifetime road hazard coverage.

mike1qaz · July 2002

Lucky you, our local 2 wallyworlds only carry Michelin Symmetry. And our Sam's club carries a Michelin XSE radial that has a tread pattern like an x-1, but I wonder if it is contructed like the the real thing.

mtr2 · July 2002

I have a 98 Accord with 86K miles. The check engine light has been coming on and off for sometime now - the dealer initially thought it was the gas cap. Now he tells me it is the catalytic converter and cost to replace $1100 with 12month/12K miles warranty. Has anyone had any similar problems? I am starting to doubt the Accord's reliability.

bodydouble · July 2002

Holy Smokes!

mikemw1 · July 2002

remember the saying about putting off 'til tomorrow? i believe they extended coverage for this problem to 80,000. i may be wrong. contact honda usa. maybe they will make an exception for you.

ronsteve · July 2002

Question, primarily for the Honda techs on the board: During the break-in period on a new Accord V6, how nice do I need to be to the car, and for how long?

The sales guy said something to the effect that I shouldn't use WOT or exceed 100 mph for the first 1K or so miles.

My brother, who is an ASE certified mechanic in MI further suggests that I limit steady-speed/constant-load highway cruising during the first 2K miles.

I just picked up my '02 EX V6 coupe last friday, and the wife is trying to convince me to take it on our trip from NC to Ohio this coming weekend. How feasible is this, and what suggestions do you have for preserving my car and my marriage?

jrct9454 · July 2002

Two things: avoid steady speed, constant engine loads for the first 1500-2000 miles. [This is easier than you might think, but can get tedious on a long trip]; and keep engine speed below 4000 rpm or thereabouts, gradually allowing yourself another 500 revs every 500-1000 miles after 1500 miles. By 3000 miles, you should be able to use any throttle setting, and any speed up to the redline.

AND NOTE: These engines take a while to get completely loose. Expect your fuel consumption and power delivery both to keep improving right through 7000 miles or so. We've had two Accords of the current gen car, one each 4 and 6, and they both took that long to really settle in; same with a '96 Acura RL.

bburton1 · July 2002

Surely the dealer did a scan to determine which code came up. No way can a gas cap and bad converter cause the same cel code. FYI I had a cel light up-got a emissions problem code-dealer under warranty replaced a 3 way valve near the cannister. Well that did not work-then I decided to buy another gas cap-the dealer tested mine and said it was ok-well no problems after a new gas cap. Now I watched the tech work on my car-he was a sharp cookie and used the codes and checked everything and still came up with the wrong fix. So simple these things ain't.

There must be a cheaper cat around-$1,100 is obscene. I think these things are fairly standard items-$300 would be a big price. Check out some of the salvage yards and remove it yourself if u can. good luck and let us know how it goes. Ecccch-$1,100-maybe the dealer has a boat payment due.

mikefm58 · July 2002

Ask Wal-Mart if they can order the X-Ones. They told me they can get any tire, but only carry a few select tires in stock. Stay away from the Sam's Club equivelent of the X-Ones. They're not the same.

pblevine · July 2002

jrct9454:
Thank you for your Post #2884 (7/3/02). Your objective point of view is very refreshing, and I learned something. In fact, I'm changing my perspective regarding tires. I now understand much more about the various trade offs between speed, performance, comfort, and price. I'm still not sure what I'll buy, but I'm now armed with an objective selection method. Thanks.

Sorry I didn't respond until now as we're been away on a mini-vacation.

Also thanks to BBurton1 and mike1qaz for their input too. I've still got a lot to learn. BTW, BB, I assume those were X-Ones you were talking about on that high speed trip (rather than the MXV4's). I always thought that the higher speed rated (ie: H or V) tires would be better performance tires and also a must for high speed driving.

For the record, I want a quieter tire (than my present MVX4's (V Rated)) which is also a better performance tire. I'm a daily commuter but do tend to drive at 80+ on longer trips. My present MVX4's make a lot of noise, experience radial runnout on turns, and seem to be less effective under wet conditions. I'll now compare the Dunlop SP Sport A2's against the X-Ones and the XGT series.

And don't pick on my friend Isell, he's been very helpful to a lot of people. To all, thanks again.

baf879 · July 2002

OK my 1998 Accord 2 Dr V6 has started to make a grinding noise on the drivers side rear wheel. It has 45K miles on it, and the sound is a kind of high pitched grinding that starts when I get up to around 40mph. It gets worse when I go faster. I know its not the brake because I don't even have to use the brakes for it to happen. Any body have an idea? I'm going to the dealer tomorrow I think but I was hoping for ideas. Thanks.

ronsteve · July 2002

jrct9454, you said the varying speeds and loads are "easier than you think"... How much variation will I need, and will the terrain take care of a lot of it for the part of the trip I'm in mountains (WV/VA)?

maxhonda99 · July 2002

baf879, It could be a wheel bearing has gone bad. That would lead to the symptons you are mentioning above.

bodydouble · July 2002

Regardless of breakin techniques, I personally would be very reluctant to take a one-week-old car on a road trip.

cokane5227 · July 2002

is there an easy way to check the torque on wheel nuts? when i got my michelins a few days ago at big o i told them to torque the wheels exactly to 80lbs, but i want to see for myself, just to make sure, is there an easy way to do it? like checking the tire pressure? =P

baf879 · July 2002

Thanks maxhonda, a friend of mine suggested that as well. I'll call a dealer today but I hope it won't be TOO expensive. (Keeping my fingers crossed)

tntitan · July 2002

I went to Sears and bought a torque wrench for about $60 and just do them myself. You could probably get a cheaper one if you shop around. I believe that Home Depot has a big sale of Husky tools because they are phasing them out for something else (maybe Husky got acquired or something like that). I plan on going today to check it out myself.

lok3 · July 2002

My 93 Accord is having some kind of electrical problem. I have my ABS light on for few seconds, the needles go down to 0 RPM and 0 mph for one second. The headlights were dime. The radio was off for few seconds. The needles for the engine temp. gauge and fuel gauge are not changed. The car is not stall. This happens most when the A/C is charging up and just turn on for the first two seconds. Do I have a bad alternator or else? In one occasion, this happened without turn on the A/C. Does anyone know?

bunk · July 2002

So the X ones will give better handling that the tires that come with the Accord EX V6 coupe?
Does that mean that they will stick to the road better also and that they will be better for driving in the snow?
If I get a new Ex V6 and want the X ones, can anyone tell me what I could do with the tires that come with the car? I mean can I possible get a good price for them somewhere?
I have been so worried about getting the EX V6 because I heard it did not have great handling and that it had no adhesion.
Will the X ones make the difference? I am really want a car I can feel secure with in quick turns, handling, rain and snow.

jrct9454 · July 2002

First, on the breakin question: moving road speed up and down by +/- 5 - 7 mph is enough to avoid the steady load on the engine. We used our new '03 Corolla on a 700 mile roundtrip within the first week, and I had no trouble moving the tach around. The main thing is to avoid steady, unchanging engine loads - climbing and descending hills actually helps, and we had our share on this trip. At 3000 miles, after the first oil change to synthetic, the engine is quieter, is making noticeably more power, and oil consumption is nil [we used about 1/8 of a quart in the first 1500 miles, none after that - exactly what you expect and look for].

Tires - I think maybe there is some overreaction here about the difference between the X-Ones and MXV4s. Personally, I would never consider ripping the OEM Michelins off and throwing them away, in favor of anything, unless I were going to autocross the car, hardly a likely possibility with an Accord. When you get your initial wear and value out of the OEM tires, then by all means start thinking about alternatives. But hesitation like Bunk is having is, at least in my humble opinion, an overreaction to some of the stronger voices that have been raised here lately.

Now Cok had a completely different issue - the OEM Bridgestones on his car were clearly bad - the shaking would have driven me to the tire store a long time ago - and you'll note he's a happy camper with his new MXV4s. Bunk, unless you are an extremely sensitive or aggressive driver, you are not going to have any issues with the OEM Michelins that are on this car. And no, they are not going to be worth much once the car is driven around the block - you might get something for them on the open market, but no tire dealer is going to give you much. That's just the reality of it...

dshar · July 2002

Hi,

I just bought a 98 Accord LX(64K miles), and the brake indicator was always on. I recently got the brake pads(front) replaced, but the light comes on every morning. This does not happen again during the course of the day; only during the mornings. I drive around 4 miles everyday. The car brakes properly, even though the freeplay is little more than before I got the pads changed. Anybody know what the problem could be?
Thanks.

jmtreetop · July 2002

On Hondas, the brake indicator usually tells you that you have a brake light out. I don't know why it doesn't always come on unless a bulb is loose or there is a short circuit.

mikefm58 · July 2002

Thanks for the suggestion jmtreetop. I have a 99 CRV that does the same thing as dshar's accord. The brake light stays on for a minute or two, but only in the morning. I'll check the brake lights to see if a bulb is out.

isellhondas · July 2002

Well....my 99 V-6 EX coupe handles just fine even with the Michelins that some people here think are just horrible.

Don't believe everything you read on the internet!

I'm not a timid driver but I don't drive around corners at 80 MPH either. I don't try to throw my Accord into a slide in the snow and don't drive 100 MPH.

So....relax!

dshar · July 2002

thanks jmtreetop...i'll check the brake lights for any defect.

pblevine · July 2002

What do ya mean by saying ya don't drive 100 mph?
Now, either you drive "at" (or more) 100mph OR you drive a distance of 100 miles. Besides the little syntax problem, you should drive "at" 100mph. Why? 'Cause if ya did, and everyone did, then I wouldn't get a ticket when I drive at that speed.

isellhondas · July 2002

Well...I HAVE driven 100 miles per hour on more than one ocassion but probably won't do this again..and I HAVE driven distances of 100 miles or more and probably WILL do this again.

And I would be willing to bet that I've had more tickets in my time than anyone you know.

But it's been a looong time. Took me awhile to finally grow up, I guess!

alcan · July 2002

Don't forget to check the high level brake light while you're at it.

maxhonda99 · July 2002

baf879, My last car I replaced a wheel bearing on. It cost me about $200. If the Honda dealer says that is what is bad, I would get the bearing changed elsewhere. Honda will charge way too much, and changing the bearing is a pretty simple job that any mechanic can do. And check around for prices.

As for tires, The MXV4's are not performance tires, and from what I have read the X-One's are even worse on the performance handling front. If you're looking for a good handling all-season tire for the Accord don't get either. Go with the Dunlop SP Sport A2. Much better handler, but of course it won't last as long. And they are quieter than the MXV4 tires also. A friend has them on his BMW which originally came with MXV4's. THey are quieter, ride smoother, and handle better.

dmstuc · July 2002

Periodically the power steering on my '02 Accord EX-V6 Sedan stops working for five to ten seconds. I have had this problem almost since the car was new. I have tried to identify any peculiar circumstances that might activate the problem, but it seems to occur at any time it wants to. So far the problem occurs with large steering inputs such as U-turns and right angle turns. I've not yet experienced the problem while driving straight ahead, or with minimal steering corrections. The vehicle now has 6700 miles on it. The local dealer discussed the problem with Honda, and they decided to flush out and replace the power steering fluid. The problem continues. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

rdrk · July 2002

My daughter has a 99 2dr accord lx with 2.3l 4cyl engine and sometimes the engine will turn over but not start.if you let it sit for 30 min to 2 hours it will then start.I have replaced plugs,checked distributor cap,rotor button and wires they all seem to be good.It has 42k miles.I have had it at my house for two days and it starts fine and seems to be an intermitten problem.After starting it runs fine.the check engine light does not stay on and i have been told that if there is an error code in the computer this light will remain on.Any help would be appreciated.

jimmyx2 · July 2002

A New Hampshire Honda dealer site mentions an ignition recall. When a former car of mine would not start, but would after a few hours. The problem turned out to be the ignition. The mechanic said the gear has teeth and when you try to start sometimes it hits the area where the tooth is missing so the car won't start. In the later attempt the ignition hits an area with teeth so the car starts. Could this be rdrk's problem?

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy