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Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 2001
Service Bulletin Number: 00095 Bulletin Sequence Number: 157 Date of Bulletin: 12/00
NHTSA Item Number: SB615720
Component: VISUAL SYSTEMS:SUN ROOF ASSEMBLY (8/82)
Summary:
ON SOME VEHICLES, THE MOONROOF SQUEAKS WHEN THE SUNSHADE IS OPEN, THE MOONROOF GLASS IS CLOSED AND THE VEHICLE IS MOVING. *TT
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Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 2001
Service Bulletin Number: 00095 Bulletin Sequence Number: 631 Date of Bulletin: 03/02
NHTSA Item Number: SB631709
Component: VISUAL SYSTEMS:SUN ROOF ASSEMBLY (8/82)
Summary:
VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE THE MOONROOF SQUEAKING. *SLC
Any idea on what is causing this and how to fix it?
Thanks
Just remove 1 nut to drain and no filter to replace. And on my I-4, I don't even have to use ramps to get to the nut.
Auto on the I-4 requires less that 3Qts to refill.
However, I do understand you being at 30k, you might want the dealer to do the first change just to record that fact in case of future problems.
I just did my 2nd change at 72k+ and everything is working fine. My '01 LX user manual says change @60k interval for severe usage for 1st change, but that seems a bit much.
I'm curious what the dealer will charge to drain and refill your trans.
mike
That is when they are supposed to shift out at wide open throttle. At red line the rev limiter will cut the ignition.
You guessed right about having the Honda dealer document the tranny fluid change. That's the main reason I called them and was considering having the 30k service done. I suppose if the job is that simple, I could just have Valvoline do it. I'll be calling both tomorrow.
jrct9454-It had 850 miles on it when I did that so I wasn't breaking any break-in rules. The owners manual says you only need to be gentle during the first 600 miles. I don't always floor my cars. Heck, during most of my driving I keep it under 3k unless I need a little extra power.
I pulled the 7.5 Amp fuse to disable the ABS Brake system. How can I get rid of the ABS warning light in dash?
That's like stepping over dollars to save pennies.
I don't want to pay for the entire bill over again when the tired, 100,000 mile water pump decides to start leaking six months later.
On the other hand...who knows? It might last another 100,00 miles.
Do ya feel lucky?
It must be a contract thing ???
Mine shifts about 200RPM shy of redline also. V6 COupe.
Also, be sure to clean the magnetic plug. You will probably be amazed at the amount of gunk on it if this is your first change.
I would suspect that the pros are either in a pit or under a rack when they drain the trans, so the car would be level for them also. Which is it Auburn?
first: can a do it yourself person who chages oil and filters handle changing hoses and belts with normal gargage tools or is this somthing a garage should handle?.
Second: if i was to change the hoses. How do you access the bottom hose comming off the radiator? it seems to be behind the plastic guard under the bumper.
Third: are the belts easy to change? is there a tension spring or is it held tight by losening some screws? easy or hard job?
Any help and thoughts would be appreciated thanks
Use only Honda ATF and change it every 30K. Easier and faster to change than oil. Oh you will need one of those tranny funnel thingies-has a funnel connected to a clear tube. Check the level after filling-see owners manual.
Anyway, after loosening the plug, it's all down hill.
Can you please look up the TSB below and email it to me rtfmdude@yahoo.com
My 01 sedan rattle like crazy with the sunshade open and the moonroof close.
Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 2001
Service Bulletin Number: 00095 Bulletin Sequence Number: 157 Date of Bulletin: 12/00
NHTSA Item Number: SB615720
Component: VISUAL SYSTEMS:SUN ROOF ASSEMBLY (8/82)
Summary:
ON SOME VEHICLES, THE MOONROOF SQUEAKS WHEN THE SUNSHADE IS OPEN, THE MOONROOF GLASS IS CLOSED AND THE VEHICLE IS MOVING. *TT
I just picked up my 2002 Accord SE Sedan Yesterday afternoon... I noticed on the drive home that the drivers seat seemed to rock a little bit - When I got home I noticed that the track on the drivers inboard side has about 1/4 inch of play in it - This is the seat with the electric height adjustment - It does not do it if the seat is all the way up, but does do it at any other height - It seems to be the linkage on the inbound side has play in it - if you grab the back of the seat bottom on the inbound side it moves, yet the outbound side has no play - The car has 51 miles on it - is this normal?
Dan
On another note: has anyone had problems with premature wear of the steering wheel grip on '98 Accords? Part of the grip has separated from the steering wheel rim and is coming off in my hands. The Honda dealership gave me a price of $500 ($130 part, the rest labor) to replace the grip -- short of buying a cheap aftermarket steering wheel rim grip/cover at Walmart, is there any other options on fixing this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I have this question though: the tire placard says the proper psi is 30, but that's for the oem 195/65. Should I still use this for the 205/65? The tire shop put them at 35psi. That's the max pressure stamped on the X1. This is the max COLD pressure right? I backed the tires down to 30psi cold.
Eric
1) Under moderately brisk acceleration from a standstill, I hear it at first touch of the gas pedal and also during the 1st gear-2nd gear shift. I don't hear it at any of the other gear changes (i.e., 2-3 or 3-4).
2) When descending a steep hill, downshifting to take advantage of engine braking, I'll hear it when I first downshift.
It sounds to me almost like 'play' in a CV joint. I checked the CV boots, all are intact and none show any sign of leaking.
Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions or comments on what to check next before I call the dealership for an appointment?
Thanks.
I use a large C clamp or small wooden Jorgensen clamp-what ever is closest to squeeze the piston back in. Before squeezing the piston, loosen the bleed screw slightly and then loosen it up when pushing the piston back into the caliper. This way the brake fluid in the piston squirts out and into a pan you put below. If you are careful you will not get any air into the system. Tighten the bleed screw down using only 6 PF of pressure and replace the dust cover.
On about the second pad change, I take a turkey baster and before doing this operation, suck out all the brake fluid I can get from the master cylinder and put in new. Brake fluid is hydroscopic-attracts water-and does need to be replaced.
ALso I have used el cheapo pads for many changes and no problems. Used to use Beck Arnley and now use Autozone. Test the brakes at very low speeds before going on the road-an air bubble in the line means 0 braking effect.
Eric
Actually, I got 112K out of a set of front pads on my 91 Accord. Braking is such a pesky annoyance - I prefer to use my horn!! In reality, it was a stick shift and I did lots of highway driving. YMM and will V!!!
I only got 30K out of the rears on my 98 with an auto.