Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
Just checked my maintenance record and changed pads at 112K and pads still had at least 10K on them. It is an automatic but I drive a lot of highway miles-seldom have to use brakes and do not really get on them unless I have to. Expect to get 200K out of the rear shoes.
Have to travel to lots of places and rent cars. If I lived in LA I doubt I would get 25K out of a set of pads. You are forever on the brakes - eeech the traffic is horrid. So brake pad life is really dependent upon how and where you drive.
Do your mufflers line up perfectly? I noticed that on my car the left muffler is about half an inch lower than the right one. Are the mufflers adjustable? Can I just tighten the hangers and raise the left muffler up to the level of the right one? Your help would be appreciated. Thanks!
My 02 Accord Ex V6 has a moonroof rattle problem. When I open my sunshade with moonroof closed, it rattles and I can hear the squeasy sound in the cabin.
The dealer said they will put some glue or silicone into it. Is that a good solution? I saw there were some TSB on 01 Accord regarding this. Does anyone have some suggestion on how to handle this?
Don't let them put glue on it! It may eliminate the rattle but you wouldn't be able to open the moonroof! I don't know about silicone but there is a tape available that the dealer can apply to the edge of the roof opening. For a short-term solution, you can open up the roof and wipe the edge of the roof opening to get rid of the dirt and crud. That seems to help but you may have to do it every so often.
Dealer use a clear plastic type tape. It is tape up around the opening of the moonroof where the rubber seal come in contact with the openning. The tape is about 1mm thick and 3/8" wide. Since it is clear you have to get up close to see it. This is better then Silicone grease but still not a real solution. I think replacing the rubber seal (hopefully the new seal fit tighter) is the real solution. I notice more wind noice after the tape is installed. In my opinion Honda and dealer use a cheap fix and hope that you don't come back.
I have a 93 Accord EX Auto with 150K and sometimes when the car has been parked in the sun for several hours the engine will crank but fail to start until the second or third try. I have heard the main relay is notorious for failing on this model, but would like any other ideas on the possible cause for this condition. I did a complete tune-up about a month ago. Thanks.
Hi everyone, I have got a 2002 V6 EX Accord, any folks who have had any problems, what do I need to be aware of, I am new to Hondas, so any feedback is appreciated.
I have 41,250 miles on my car. The idle surges down then back to baseline when the car is hot. This happens when the car is in park or driveing very slowly in bumper to bumper trafic. It does not seem to happen at cruising speeds. I took it to the dealer, for the third time, they adjusted the baseline idle but it is still occuring. It does not happen all the time, so it is hard to diagnose. Anyone have this problem? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
All went well on my front brake pad change. I did one thing different than you described. Instead of opening the bleed screw when retracting the pucks, I just slowly retracted them and let the brake fluid go back into the reservoir, where I sucked a little out so it wouldn't overflow. Seems like less chance of getting air into the system this way. Thanks again for the clear instructions.
Well, I never thought I'd end up on this side of the owners forum!
After 89,000 trouble free miles, my '93 Accord EX automatic no longer runs. When I start the car, it turns right over, but as soon as I release the starter, it simply dies. No sputters or coughs, it just shuts down.
sounds as if the electrical portion of your ignition switch nay be bad. When your car starts and you go to release the key into the run position try doing it very slow and see if you can keep it running, or have someone check it out for you if you are not comfortable with that..
Hi all, Recently I got into a situation where I basically had to pick up this car very cheap for about US$400? ($NZ900 inc 4 'new' tyres second hand).
The (what I thought was _one_) CV was clicking but I thought I could live with that until I could afford to get it fixed (which I did, *both* of them), and had 194,xxx km on the clock (121,500 mi), timing belt (and water pump? done at 128,000k (80,000mi) kindly scratched onto the area near the valve cover.
Anyway, this is a very nice car, and while I try not to let such things sway me too much, I like the body shape very much (more than the new ones (ie 97+), but then I'm gonna say that aren't I? , so for about as much again as I paid for it it's running really well, EXCEPT for the transmission.
It's a 2.0l Si auto , and my symptoms are thus: 50% of the time the transmission is absolutely sweet, 25% of the other times it shifts really badly (like I have to gun the engine to get it into third on the way down) and it never goes into 4th but is manageable, the other 25% of the time I'm pleading (out loud) with it to be sensible-it won't go out of second, or sometimes it seems like its gone from 3rd to Neutral (or 4th at low speeds?).
I didn't have it serviced at a Honda dealership (mainly for convenience of drop off and short walk to work) and the guy there recommended a transmission flush (and waved a glossy brochure under my nose and pointed to some Wynns additives) but I has already read a thousand or so messages here by that stage so I put him off (I don't think the flush would hurt, this car looks like it has not been maintained that well, but maybe I can tell him to hold the additives?). But from further reading of the mine of information that this board is I thought it could be other causes, like the TCU maybe? Any thoughts on that would be appreciated. Can I get one from a wreck and swap it myself (I'm ok with the electrical stuff)
It also has the rough idle, which I gather from here could be anything, so I'm not too concerned about that yet (bad engine mounts, clogged EGR manifold, TW sensor, PCV valve?) My question there is what order would you use to attack that problem bearing in mind that I'd be paying someone else to do it since I'm not mechanically abled/inclined
One more question is what kind of Accord have I got?? People talk about LX's and DX's and I see CLs etc, mine is a CA.. which I gather is a Canadian model? (The VIN starts with C) That's really weird since I'm in New Zealand where our market is flooded with Japanese imports. What is the CA equivalent to?(no offense to the Canadians
As I said I really like this car and am very impressed at how well it scrubbed up and is doing after a lot of neglect and probable abuse (tyres were *bald* when I got it), and I'm willing to put quite a few extra $$$ into it (up to or around its market value of course, which here is about half of what I've spent so far). So the main decision I have to make is whether the transmission is a biggie or not and whether to just put a second hand tranny in (not much point if it's the control unit, right?), thoughts or comments appreciated.
I have read most of the 3000 messages here and I have learned a lot which has put my mind at ease about a lot of things about this car and made me think of quite a few things I wouldn't have thunk, so thanks guys, keep it up!
A transmission flush would probably be a good idea as long as you use Honda transmission fluid and NO additives as they are bad for the seals. As for the TCU, that model should only have a ECU which has little control over the trans so chances are that if you are having a shifting problem it is either with the shift timing control cable adjustment or the clutch packs inside the transmission.I would have the shift timing control cable adjusted first and see if that helps as well as the flush.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX sedan (4 cyl) with 28k miles. There is a squeak coming from the lower dash below the steering wheel (right at my knee level). The dealer took the panel off and put some kind of padding in there and that took care of the squeak for about 2 days. It is back and VERY annoying. It sounds like plastic on plastic and goes away when it is humid.
My 2002 Accord EX is really screwy. I have (now) 83k miles roughly. This is pretty much all freeway miles, and I cruise on the 101, unless there's traffic goin to and from Santa Barbara and LA. After the 50k mark, problems began to develop. I had the transmission done at about 70k, under my honda care extended warranty. However, about 5k after that, my idle started getting wacky. First, when I come to stops, either off the freeway, or at lights, it would shake horribly, like the car was gonna die and the idle was very low. Then the idle stared to go up and down up and down at park. So I took it to a dealer the first time, they said they adjusted the idle using the PGM thinggy and the second time (a couple months later) they said I needed to have the fuel injector cleaned for $170. OUTRAGEOUS! Another said that it's probably the idle and it's not covered under the extended warranty. They wanted $80 to 'look' at my car. What do you suppose is the matter? One friend said the Idle control unit is broken and I have to get it replaced.... Please help before I get ripped off again!
Thanks for the information and suggestion that you posted a couple of months ago with respect to the '91 Accord. As it turned out, you were correct about the ignitor being bad. The owner installed the new ignitor himself.
Question: There's no 'problem board' under the Prelude section, so I'll try to post a quick question here. We have a '97 that appears to have an ABS/brake problem. Shortly after starting the car, the warning light comes on. The dealer says it's registering a code 81-1 for ABS unit failure. The regular brakes appear to be working fine, but the ABS system doesn't appear to be engaging. Anyway, we've been told that a repair bill will run ~$1,000 ($800/parts and $200/labor). To your knowledge, is there any other potential or real problem that may be causing this unit failure; when in fact, it's not a bad ABS unit, but instead something less catastrophic!?! This problem doesn't appear to be common on the late model Preludes.
On the '85 Civic Wagon: I may have it back Saturday -- completely restored. Talk about a rare vintage!?! At least that's my opinion.
martye320 It could be an idle control valve going bad as they can cause what you say. However I do not see many of them go bad. Is the coolant level ok ? If that is low, that can create an idle problem. Is there a check engine light on ? Is the throtlle cable too tight? One last thought is the possibility of a vacuum leak, a hose could have been loosened up by the replacement of the transmission by mystake. I know that isnt much help but it is all I can think of for now.I havent seen any idle problems with these as of yet...
dash400m I do not reconize that code, however the best thing to do would be to remove the abs fuses from the abs fuse box under the hood and reinstall after 15 secounds. This clears the codes. Now start the car and see if the ABS light comes on and goes off. Now, if so listen and see if you hear the ABS pump running, if so does it shut off after like 10 secounds or so or does it continue to run until the ABS light comes on? Most of the time just about all ABS problems are air in the system and or lack of use which leads to frozen/stuck valves inside the modulator. Try the above and let me know if you can what happens....
I passed on your information to the Prelude owner. I just had a voice mail from the owner saying that your instructions worked. I didn't get all the particulars from his steps that you referenced, but he did say that the ABS light no longer comes on, and that the system is engaging. I'll talk to him Monday and try to get all the particulars as to what happened at each step.
I have a 92 Accord EX and lately whenever I switch on the A/C, a big rattling sound starts coming out from near the engine block, more towards the left side. Can someone tell me what might be the problem and how I can fix it ? The A/c seems to be working fine, cooling normally.
auburn63, Since it seems like you are "the man" I got a question. The steering on my 00 Accord V6 is a little wacky. When I'm pulling out of the garage in the morning and I cut the wheel all the way to the right and back out, the left front end(it seems like) shifts a little bit. It feels like somewhere a bushing is worn out or something. I don't hear any noises like a creak or anything. It's kinda like something is settling in or something when I turn the steering wheel. With this, the car also follows ruts way too much on the road. MOre than other Accords I have driven. if you can kinda give me a idea, that would be great.
I let the brake fluid drain out the relief valve when changing pads simply because the fluid in the braking unit gets very hot and I would like to get rid of this fluid-particularly if it has any crud in it from all the heating. Now most people do what you did-just push the old fluid back into the system. Easier and no chance of getting air into the system which is a PITA to get out sometimes.
Glad it worked out-how long did it take. Betcha less time than going to a repair place and then having to fight them from selling you up on something you don't need/want.
sukal If it is not a heat shield then it probably is your A/C compresor. My 92 has a pinging like rattle that is the ac compresor and has been like that for about 2 years now.
maxhonda99 If it is not a ball joint starting to go bad then it probably is just a little tire roll/skip/movement. I have come accross it a few times on slow moving tight turn as the cars weight shifts a bit. Other than that do not know of any known problems. Sorry to not be of much help on that one
Hi, my 02 V6 Accord manual says to use 5W20 oil but a friend has a 00 model, the same motor & his manual says 5W30, anyone knows the reason. Kinda hard to find 5W20..!
...gives marginally better results in both the EPA fuel consumption test, and in the emissions test at the end of the 100k mandatory cycle.
In the real world, outside the EPA lab, there is no practical difference, and even dealers are widely ignoring this alleged change in requirements. You can too.
I have an '00 Honda Accord EX. The leather interior is in good condition and I'd like to keep it that way. Any suggestions for a good leather conditioner to use.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord EX. I took the car in for its 30k preventive 6/2002 and the mechanic informed me I was leaking tranmission fluid. I took the car into Honda. They mentioned something about a gasket, a leak and replacing the transmission.
When the transmission was replaced the car drove horribly. Couldn't climb hills, didn't shift well. Felt like the engine and transmission from my old 1999 Mazda Protege was in the vehicle. I took the car back to Honda 8/5/2002 and they mentioned something about internal stuff failing and needing a new transmission.
This tranmission runs great, it climbs hills well, changes without a hitch, and the car drives like when I drove it off the lot, like a dream.
Question: What would cause the transmission to fail twice? Should I be alarmed? I'm thinking that the something else major may go in the car, and my warranty is almost up. Why doesn't Honda warrant their drivetrain for 50k like most other manufactures?
auburn63, Thanks for the info. Didn't think of the ball joint, I kinda thought it would have been a steering rack bushing or something. I'll bring up what you said at my next service stop. Thanks.
Hi, Accord owners: Anyone tested the top speed on V6 Accord? Road & Track tested the model back in May 00 @ 128 mph. I have not tested mine, its an 02 model, came w/ V rated tires. I live in Seattle, thinking about taking it to Montana & unleash..
I think the pad change took less than 2 hours, including the trip to the parts store. Almost as easy as an oil change. If I had taken it to the dealer it would have wasted most of my day and they were talking about $300, which may have included re surfacing the rotors (which it didn't need). My total cost was $45 for NAPA's best pad kit, so I made about $125 an hour and I had the rest of the day for messing around on my boat.
So does this mean that I can continue running the car ignoring the sound coming when I switch on the A/C or should I take it to a mechanic/service station ?
I can't really say that your noise is the same as mine and to just ignore it and keep driving because I cant hear or see your noise. It may be best to have someone make sure that it is either the ac or ac fan and no big deal..Then make your decision on to fix it or not.
I have had so many problems with my used 1995 Honda Accord LX, 4 cylinder, its not even funny!! The driver side window rolls up when it wants too, even had new motor put in it. The trunk lock is broke, I cannot open it with a key anymore.The little light panels on the inside of the doors have all fallen off, can't get them to go back on there and stay. The paint is peeling off on the front grill. The rims are just an ugly site, they are peeling off too, I have had to put it in the shop several times to figure out why it frequently runs hot, even after I keep up with putting water and anti-freeze in it. I also found out that there is a recall on my year and model Accord, so if any of you have the same, get it fixed!! The problem is the factory installed air conditioner wire harness was improperly routed allowing the wires to rub against each other, eventually causing a short circuit. The short circuit can possibly cause the underhood harness to overheat and smoke, causing a fire in the engine component. A short circuit can also result in a blown fuse or dead battery. The list goes on and on. Any one else out there with simialar probs? I think my car has end up costing me more than I expected, I think I would have been better off buying a new one, don't you think????
I have noticed that many of you are reporting that your SRS light will not go off, my 1995 Honda Accord LX, 4 cylinder is doing the same thing, just started maybe 8 months ago. Has any body figured out what to do with it????
i have one simple solution for u: bring it to the dealer, tell them to fix all the little problems u have and pay the bill afterwards. it's a 7 yr old car and i don't know about anybody else, to me it doesn't look like ur car has any serious faults, just little things. and i'm sure the dealer can take care of all of them for u.
Like: The window is most likely a power window master switch. The trunk lock is a bad lock cylynder or worn key. The light panel lenses are probably broken, they have little clip tabs on them. Running hot could be anything but my guess is either a radiator or thermostat. SRS light can be reset and if continues to come will probably be a srs unit failure. Only a big deal if you want the air bag system to work.. So yes the list of items add upto a few bucks but all in all not too bad depending on the srs which is probably the biggest dollar item..
Comments
Have to travel to lots of places and rent cars. If I lived in LA I doubt I would get 25K out of a set of pads. You are forever on the brakes - eeech the traffic is horrid. So brake pad life is really dependent upon how and where you drive.
My 02 Accord Ex V6 has a moonroof rattle problem. When I open my sunshade with moonroof closed, it rattles and I can hear the squeasy sound in the cabin.
The dealer said they will put some glue or silicone into it. Is that a good solution? I saw there were some TSB on 01 Accord regarding this. Does anyone have some suggestion on how to handle this?
Thanks!
This is better then Silicone grease but still not a real solution. I think replacing the rubber seal (hopefully the new seal fit tighter) is the real solution.
I notice more wind noice after the tape is installed.
In my opinion Honda and dealer use a cheap fix and hope that you don't come back.
worked for me
Thanks,
AL.
---
Eric
After 89,000 trouble free miles, my '93 Accord EX automatic no longer runs. When I start the car, it turns right over, but as soon as I release the starter, it simply dies. No sputters or coughs, it just shuts down.
Oh yeah, the gas tank is full.
Any thoughts?
I'm due for state safety and emissions inspection, I think I'll have them check it out then.
Thanks for the advice...I just don't have the time to get under the car right now to try your suggestion.
Thank you for the response. I appreciate it!
Recently I got into a situation where I basically had to pick up this car very cheap for about US$400? ($NZ900 inc 4 'new' tyres second hand).
The (what I thought was _one_) CV was clicking but I thought I could live with that until I could afford to get it fixed (which I did, *both* of them), and had 194,xxx km on the clock (121,500 mi), timing belt (and water pump?
Anyway, this is a very nice car, and while I try not to let such things sway me too much, I like the body shape very much (more than the new ones (ie 97+), but then I'm gonna say that aren't I?
It's a 2.0l Si auto , and my symptoms are thus: 50% of the time the transmission is absolutely sweet, 25% of the other times it shifts really badly (like I have to gun the engine to get it into third on the way down) and it never goes into 4th but is manageable, the other 25% of the time I'm pleading (out loud) with it to be sensible-it won't go out of second, or sometimes it seems like its gone from 3rd to Neutral (or 4th at low speeds?).
I didn't have it serviced at a Honda dealership (mainly for convenience of drop off and short walk to work) and the guy there recommended a transmission flush (and waved a glossy brochure under my nose and pointed to some Wynns additives) but I has already read a thousand or so messages here by that stage so I put him off (I don't think the flush would hurt, this car looks like it has not been maintained that well, but maybe I can tell him to hold the additives?). But from further reading of the mine of information that this board is I thought it could be other causes, like the TCU maybe? Any thoughts on that would be appreciated. Can I get one from a wreck and swap it myself (I'm ok with the electrical stuff)
It also has the rough idle, which I gather from here could be anything, so I'm not too concerned about that yet (bad engine mounts, clogged EGR manifold, TW sensor, PCV valve?) My question there is what order would you use to attack that problem bearing in mind that I'd be paying someone else to do it since I'm not mechanically abled/inclined
One more question is what kind of Accord have I got?? People talk about LX's and DX's and I see CLs etc, mine is a CA.. which I gather is a Canadian model? (The VIN starts with C) That's really weird since I'm in New Zealand where our market is flooded with Japanese imports. What is the CA equivalent to?(no offense to the Canadians
As I said I really like this car and am very impressed at how well it scrubbed up and is doing after a lot of neglect and probable abuse (tyres were *bald* when I got it), and I'm willing to put quite a few extra $$$ into it (up to or around its market value of course, which here is about half of what I've spent so far). So the main decision I have to make is whether the transmission is a biggie or not and whether to just put a second hand tranny in (not much point if it's the control unit, right?), thoughts or comments appreciated.
I have read most of the 3000 messages here and I have learned a lot which has put my mind at ease about a lot of things about this car and made me think of quite a few things I wouldn't have thunk, so thanks guys, keep it up!
Any ideas?
I'll post the results if and when.
Question: There's no 'problem board' under the Prelude section, so I'll try to post a quick question here. We have a '97 that appears to have an ABS/brake problem. Shortly after starting the car, the warning light comes on. The dealer says it's registering a code 81-1 for ABS unit failure. The regular brakes appear to be working fine, but the ABS system doesn't appear to be engaging. Anyway, we've been told that a repair bill will run ~$1,000 ($800/parts and $200/labor). To your knowledge, is there any other potential or real problem that may be causing this unit failure; when in fact, it's not a bad ABS unit, but instead something less catastrophic!?! This problem doesn't appear to be common on the late model Preludes.
On the '85 Civic Wagon: I may have it back Saturday -- completely restored. Talk about a rare vintage!?! At least that's my opinion.
http://www.honda.co.jp/soeno/photo_id/civic_ws/jpg/138_1b.jpg
Thanks again.
It could be an idle control valve going bad as they can cause what you say. However I do not see many of them go bad. Is the coolant level ok ? If that is low, that can create an idle problem. Is there a check engine light on ? Is the throtlle cable too tight? One last thought is the possibility of a vacuum leak, a hose could have been loosened up by the replacement of the transmission by mystake. I know that isnt much help but it is all I can think of for now.I havent seen any idle problems with these as of yet...
dash400m
I do not reconize that code, however the best thing to do would be to remove the abs fuses from the abs fuse box under the hood and reinstall after 15 secounds. This clears the codes. Now start the car and see if the ABS light comes on and goes off. Now, if so listen and see if you hear the ABS pump running, if so does it shut off after like 10 secounds or so or does it continue to run until the ABS light comes on? Most of the time just about all ABS problems are air in the system and or lack of use which leads to frozen/stuck valves inside the modulator. Try the above and let me know if you can what happens....
As always -- thanks. You da' MAN!
I have a 92 Accord EX and lately whenever I switch on the A/C, a big rattling sound starts coming out from near the engine block, more towards the left side. Can someone tell me what might be the problem and how I can fix it ? The A/c seems to be working fine, cooling normally.
Thanks,
Glad it worked out-how long did it take. Betcha less time than going to a repair place and then having to fight them from selling you up on something you don't need/want.
If it is not a heat shield then it probably is your A/C compresor. My 92 has a pinging like rattle that is the ac compresor and has been like that for about 2 years now.
maxhonda99
If it is not a ball joint starting to go bad then it probably is just a little tire roll/skip/movement. I have come accross it a few times on slow moving tight turn as the cars weight shifts a bit. Other than that do not know of any known problems. Sorry to not be of much help on that one
AL.
In the real world, outside the EPA lab, there is no practical difference, and even dealers are widely ignoring this alleged change in requirements. You can too.
Thanks
Pat S.
When the transmission was replaced the car drove horribly. Couldn't climb hills, didn't shift well. Felt like the engine and transmission from my old 1999 Mazda Protege was in the vehicle. I took the car back to Honda 8/5/2002 and they mentioned something about internal stuff failing and needing a new transmission.
This tranmission runs great, it climbs hills well, changes without a hitch, and the car drives like when I drove it off the lot, like a dream.
Question: What would cause the transmission to fail twice? Should I be alarmed? I'm thinking that the something else major may go in the car, and my warranty is almost up. Why doesn't Honda warrant their drivetrain for 50k like most other manufactures?
Thanks for your input.
XheVoice
So does this mean that I can continue running the car ignoring the sound coming when I switch on the A/C or should I take it to a mechanic/service station ?
I do think factory ones are capable for 140...
BTW, do you guys know where to get the radiator bug screen..?
AL.
$55 and an hour under the steering column. All is good again.
Thanks a lot, you saved me money and grief!
-Sukal
The window is most likely a power window master switch.
The trunk lock is a bad lock cylynder or worn key.
The light panel lenses are probably broken, they have little clip tabs on them.
Running hot could be anything but my guess is either a radiator or thermostat.
SRS light can be reset and if continues to come will probably be a srs unit failure. Only a big deal if you want the air bag system to work..
So yes the list of items add upto a few bucks but all in all not too bad depending on the srs which is probably the biggest dollar item..