95 Accord EX 107,000 miles Has anyone had any experience with their ABS light coming on? When I add fluid, it goes out. There are TSBs out about how to fix a leaking modulator, but my dealer says that it's malfunctioning. When the light is out, the ABS work fine. I've called Honda Customer Service and they're supposed to get back to me within 3-5 business days (it's been 4.75 business days). I don't know whether they are saying to replace the modulator when all it is is a leak or if there's really a problem, it's a safety issue. I've also posted a complaint to the NHTSA web site. Thanks!
...I too have to ask what's the nature of the complaint? You've got a car that needs its brakes repaired, at a mileage that many cars are considered used up. Just what should Honda or the "Gummint" do about that?
A family member owns a 95 Accord and the ABS light was on. We filled the ABS reservoir and the light turned off. But when we come to a stop we can hear a pump type sound running. Can anyone shed some light on this problem? I also noticed the TSB out on this issue. Any idea what the fix is? Thanks in advance.
Thanks to everybody who made suggestions about the check engine light. I unhooked the battery for about 30 secs, and the light went off (nothing happened to the radio, not even the presets, the clock needed to be reset though). Unfortunately, the light came back on after a few days, so it seems I'll have to take it in.
I had a couple more questions though.
First, is there anywhere else to get keys copied besides the dealer if there's one of those computer chips in them? I've called around, and it doesn' seem like they do it anywhere, but I just thought I'd check for something cheaper.
Also, my car came off a lease in another city, and I got it at an auction through a broker, and I was wondering if there was any way to find out what service my car has had in the past or will need in the future. Is there any central records agency or something like that?
Also, any new suggestions about that check engine light would be great too. Thanks.
I just would like to say that Continental Honda has taken good care of me and my needs for my car. Their service personnel have been great in dealing with my warranty request. If anyone here is from Illinois and you need service done in your car, look up Continental Honda in Countryside. I'm not a salesman just a happy and very satified customer.
Prior to my last visit to the dealership, I had the misfortune (or fortunate, depending on your point of view) of having to do a real panic stop on a local highway. A crash happened in front of me. I was able to avoid being part of the crash by slaming on the brakes and quickly driving around the scene as other cars piled on. I was very lucky! But afterwards, I happened to remember that the ABS didn't seem to activate. Now I didn't lose control and the brakes didn't lock up. So maybe it wasn't a true panic stop, but it was rather fast.
When I told the dealership/service folks about this, they said they would give the entire braking and ABS system a complete inspection. According to their findings, the ABS system is working properly. Should I trust them? I don't remember feeling that "bump, bump, bump" type of vibration normally associated with ABS activation. Or is the Honda ABS smoother than most other brands?
I have a '98 Accord EX. The check engine light came on because of something to do with the catalytic converter. The light went out and came on again one month later. I had just filled up with Exxon gas (Not a common choice of mine). I checked may credit card receipts and sure enough, right before my light had come on the first time, I had filled up with Exxon gas.
Is there anything I should know about or is it just a coincidence?
The cat warranty is 8yrs 80,000 so you may want to have it checked out the next time the light comes on if yu are in that range still otherwise keep clearing it until it comes on and stays on all the time...
PBlevine, I usually check my ABS once in a while. All you have to do is find an open road to test it on(Make sure there aren't any other cars or people around). Drive about 20 to 30 mph and slam on the breaks. You should see the ABS light come on and feel the ABS kick in. I have a 2001 Accord and the ABS feels smoother than my 97 Honda Passport. Hope that helps...
your car sounds like a lemon. It happens with Hondas too, just not as often. You should probably trade it in as it will have a good value now. My sister had an '84 Accord LX. She had the worst one ever assembled, but it was her first new car, she loved it and poured mucho dinero to keep it going. I wouldn't repeat her mistake.
This was my post & contribution before I was redirected
**********
I'm not trying to be negative but just see if anyone has had the misfortunes that I've experienced with my new car over the last two years.
In August of 2000 I made a decision at age 42 to buy a new car. I've had success with used cars mainly The Ford Taurus. We were also going to have our first child in December so I figured for safety and reliability to get a brand new car. I was going after the new Taurus, but after going to a few web sights there was one thing in common, everyone was having problems with the motor. Didn't want to buy a new car and have that kinda problem, so I read up on reviews of cars in that same class. There was constant raving about the Honda Accord, for reliability, resale value, & safety>>>
So I decided to go down to my local Honda dealership and try one out. I was pretty impressed to say the least. It took me a bout a week of looking at other cars for me to realize there was only one car to buy for my family. I bought a 2000 Honda EX & was very excited !!!!.
Since then I have had numerous nagging problems. The gas mileage is awful. I get 18 miles at best with 50/50 city to highway, properly inflated tires and I'm not lead footed or a fast starter. I have been to the dealership and they checked things out on the computer and they said everything is fine. My method of checking was to fill till shutoff, record the miles driven, fill up till shut off again and divide the miles by the gallons. I did that for several fill ups and came up with very consistant numbers. The only disparity was if I did more city than highway then I could get as little as 14+ MPG. The old 8 cylinder 1970 Impala I drove whne i was a teenager faired better, & drove like a cowboy.
This situation became so annoying I contacted Honda of america. They were pretty smug, I was very surprised, I thought they would be a little more amenable. They suggested they could do a consumption test and after that there was nothing they would do. My dealership did the consuption test but for only 40 miles. They said that they drove 20 miles city and the same highway following Honda's guidelines. They came up with 19 MPG and that was within acceptibility for Honda. The 18/28 MPG that was posted on the sticker when I bought it was a mirage. I later learned these figures were compiled under perfect conditions and a max of 45 on the highway.
I still liked the car overall so I sucked it up and went forward. Since then I have been back twice for the engine light coming on, twice for the Airbag light staying on, once for the low fuel light refusing to go off, now the side air bag light does a appearing and dis-appearing act and no ones leaning on the door.
If anything scatches the paint a little bit it takes it to the metal. I guess they don't put as much paint on as they used to. Also now The tranny hesitates before kicking into gear going from first to second gear.
I am so tired of going to the dealership. I thought with a new car one thing would be less trips to the shop.
Most of my complaints I know are small, and would be very liveable if there weren't so many of them . There were a few other I didn't mention. I have 31k on the odometer and I'm really leaning on trading it in before the 36k. I really like the car, that's the shame.
I have really tried to convey my displeasure in a diplomatic way to American Honda and they take a very difensive posture. They just keep telling me to take it to my dealer, and my dealer keeps telling me to call American Honda.
I contacted 1-800-lemon and they told me I need three occurances of the same problem after they've been corrected for me to have a case. I've also contacted the Attorney General's office.
I just thought with a new car things would be a little less aggravating. I also thought American Honda would at least investigate this matter, gather the fact before taking a stance.
Even though this has been a bad experience this could just be one bad car.I thought with another Honda Accord I would have the car that people have been raving about and a car I wouldn't mind recommending to friends and family, but so far I'm not to happy...
My apologies for all the air but I needed to vent a little.... Anyone else have any similar experiences ???
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- #2 of 3 If the car is a 4-cylinder... by bodydouble Aug 27, 2002 (07:50 pm) then the gas mileage is definitely low. The tranny hesitating is a concern. That's definitely a sign of tranny problem. Take it in pronto before the warranty runs out!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- #3 of 3 by kirstie_h HOST Aug 28, 2002 (08:28 am) Sorry about your problems, cheddar1. We do have an active topic about Honda Accord Problems, which is the best place to continue this discussion. Just click on my link and you're there.
Well I guess I'm just wondering when you feel a car manufacture's responsibity should end?
I mean, you have a seven year old car with over 100,000 miles on it and it kinda sounds like you may be expecting the manufacturer to watrranty the car forever.
A lot of components on a car are safety related. do you think these items should be covered under warranty forever? I'm just curious, that's all.
As far as the dealer. If you are concerned about the diagnosis, you should try a different dealer.
I think you should have stayed with Taurus. Of course I'm biased, I had a '90 for ten years and 98,000 miles and sold it with no known problems, and very few problems when I owned it. Replaced with a 2000 Taurus SES now with 18,000 miles and has been back to the dealer a total of once for one minor wiper recall.
On the other hand, maybe I've been just lucky.........
We have owned two of the current generation Accords: a '98 LX 4 automatic, and an '01 EX V6 sedan.
Neither car gave us the slightest trouble. I would rate paint quality as average to above-average, and I've owned everything German and Japanese [52 of them] in the past 40 years. Fuel consumption for the 4 cyl was 24 avg, with 29-30 on trips; for the V6, about 2 mpg less.
What this means to your case is, in the final analysis, very little, I guess, except that statistically, you are a member of a small minority group. I suggest you sell the car post-haste and move on. I doubt seriously if any repair efforts, especially if you have no trust in the local dealers, will be satisfactory.
Every manufacturer of products as complex as the modern automobile is going to make mistakes, and you are an innocent victim of the law of averages. You can keep fighting it, or get on with the rest of your automotive life. I would suggest the latter.
It won't be any consolation to know that there are owners of every make currently sold in the US with stories like yours. I pay attention to all of the makes that have graced my garage in the past 4 decades [MB, BMW, Toyota, Honda, Audi, VW, Porsche, Nissan], and none of them are immune to the phenomenon of the occasional "bad one".
Incidentally, our '88 Taurus was mostly satisfactory for the 15000 miles I had it; our '92 Sable was a rolling disaster that redefined the word "lemon"....
You will need to go in and have it checked but my best guess would either be a p1457 which is usally a bad canister vent shut valve(cvs) or a O2 sensor code which may go in the direction of a new ECU. Or one other possibilty would be the EGR lack of flow. Those are the three most common other than a p1456-loose gas cap..Good luck
Sorry about your car problems. I have a question and a comment for you. First, how long are your trips around town? If less than 15 min, your car will run rich and the mileage will be pretty bad. With that said, we also had lower than expected mileage on our Honda and at the end it turned out to be the O2 sensor. The car never threw any codes but replacing the sensor improved the mileage by 10-15%.
Cheddar, I agree that you probably want to get rid of the Accord. Rather than be dissapointed daily with it, get rid of it. Take advantage of the high resale value that Hondas enjoy and sell the car.
Yes, it will cost you money to sell and buy another, but there will be less psychic cost. Do it now or do it later, but it sounds like you will not be happy with the car.
Just realize that you take a chance of getting a lemon from any car maker. Yes, it's possible to have an individual Taurus that's a better car than an individual Accord, but the odds are against it. (I've had both, BTW)
I have a 1998 V6 Accord and have NEVER gotten less than 22 mpg on a tank of gas...I usually get 24 to 26 mpg with a mix of highway and other driving. I've also had virtually no problems with it. So, as they say, "your mileage may vary".
Sorry to hear about your problems with your Accord. I'd recommend getting rid of it before the warranty expires. You'll never be happy with it with all the problems you've had. Your only saving grace will be that you should get a good trade in with an Accord rather than if you had the same problem with a Taurus.
Your story reminds of my experience with a Whirlpool dishwasher, the best rated appliance. Mine went through transmission couplers every 6 mos. to the tune of $125. each time. The repair man kept telling me the washer is over loaded. After the 3rd repair, I decided to dump it. I researched washers again, and guess what? I ended up buying another Whirlpool, which has been perfect for 3 years now. Even the most reliable brand does put out a lemon once in awhile.
What exactly does that mean? If the locks themselves don't move, how can you tell they are "cycling"? Does it happen when you are driving, or when the vehicle is parked?
In my 02 V6 Accord, I have noticed a hump in the floor right behind the driver seat, it is located where the rear passenger floor mat is, I am not sure why is there some protrusion in the floor, I did look at some other Accords & they have similar thing, anyone knows what that is....?
If someone has lost confidence in a product they will forever look for problems
While I agree with that statement, it doesn't really apply to a lemon. What about the owner who wants to have confidence, yet is forever having problems? What about someone who loves the car, but hates the fact that it constantly proves unreliable? The onus is not on the back of the owner in this situation. He doesn't simply lose faith and start conjuring up problems. The problems start first, then comes the erosion of confidence. Either way, it's time to move on.
auburn63: I recently asked about the difficulty of replacing the radiator in my 1990 Accord... as you stated, it was not very difficult. All I needed was a 10mm wrench and small hands to work in the tight spaces. Managed to change the radiator out in two hours, pretty straight forward job.
New problem: Now that my radiator is good, it seems my clutch/gear shifter is acting up. I have two separate things happening. #1 the clutch pedal does not want to return to the fully extended position. It engages and disengages the clutch mechanism, but the pedal only returns half way up? #2 When the clutch is engaged, I have to force the gear shift into gear. No grinding, it just takes some effort to push it into gear (even when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor). It seems to get better as you work through the gears 1-2-3-4..., but something is definitely wrong. Some people have mentioned cable adjustment for the clutch and bushing replacement for the shifter??? Am I looking at a clutch replacement??? Please advise...
Isellhondas I don't want to be rude but your too biased. Always looking for something ??? I have been trying to convince myself everyday that the problems i've had are liveable and have stated that I would like to buy another Honda Accord. My biggest dissapointment is that American Honda won't even try and gather facts first before taking a stance. They wouldn't have to do much to give me reassurance and win me back.
Mike
The whirlpool story was a good one. It's a shame that the consumer who continues to make these corporations and their affiliates rich has to endure so much of the brunt when there is a problem. I guess i've been very lucky with household appliances.
BodyDouble
I concur
JRCT
I'm glad that you've remained unscathed. The only problem I have is that when the occasional bad one hits the street that a reliable company should recognize that and work with the consumer to make it right. I'm sure most consumers would be willing to meet somewhere in the middle thats fair to both parties. America Honda in my case was quick to get defensive and draw a line, not gather facts and then make a discernment. I will move forward ...
Malachy
I can assure you i won't let things go that far. Thanks for the input.
Badger fan
I would reconsider buying a Taurus. It's something I'm familiar and comfortable with. The accord, outside of the problems, has been a good car. The car has very good safety features and is pretty solid for its size. It's gonna be a tough decision. i know i'm getting rid of the car before the warrany expires.
Tim Adams
The car since I've purchased it in August of 2000 for $ 21,900 with 4 miles on it is now worth about 16,000-17,000 dollars with 30k. If the dealer or American Honda would sell me the car for a fair price near invoice I would do that. Two months ago they( dealership) offered me $ 17,000 for my car and wouldn't budge off the sticker price saying they are giving me a great price for my car. In my mind the trade and the pruchase are "TWO" seperate transactions unrelated. My problem is that this is the only dealership for new Honda's in my area.
Your advice is pretty close to my top choice.
96 i30 5sp
Your post was very interesting. I will call the service manager and discuss this. This would be a good start to getting the car right if i was to keep it... That I'm not too sure I will do "Thanks"
Isellhondas I don't want to be rude but your too biased. Always looking for something ??? I have been trying to convince myself everyday that the problems i've had are liveable and have stated that I would like to buy another Honda Accord. My biggest dissapointment is that American Honda won't even try and gather facts first before taking a stance. They wouldn't have to do much to give me reassurance and win me back.
Mike
The whirlpool story was a good one. It's a shame that the consumer who continues to make these corporations and their affiliates rich has to endure so much of the brunt when there is a problem. I guess i've been very lucky with household appliances.
BodyDouble
I concur
JRCT
I'm glad that you've remained unscathed. The only problem I have is that when the occasional bad one hits the street that a reliable company should recognize that and work with the consumer to make it right. I'm sure most consumers would be willing to meet somewhere in the middle thats fair to both parties. America Honda in my case was quick to get defensive and draw a line, not gather facts and then make a discernment. I will move forward ...
Malachy
I can assure you i won't let things go that far. Thanks for the input.
Badger fan
I would reconsider buying a Taurus. It's something I'm familiar and comfortable with. The accord, outside of the problems, has been a good car. The car has very good safety features and is pretty solid for its size. It's gonna be a tough decision. i know i'm getting rid of the car before the warrany expires.
Tim Adams
The car since I've purchased it in August of 2000 for $ 21,900 with 4 miles on it is now worth about 16,000-17,000 dollars with 30k. If the dealer or American Honda would sell me the car for a fair price near invoice I would do that. Two months ago they( dealership) offered me $ 17,000 for my car and wouldn't budge off the sticker price saying they are giving me a great price for my car. In my mind the trade and the pruchase are "TWO" seperate transactions unrelated. My problem is that this is the only dealership for new Honda's in my area.
Your advice is pretty close to my top choice.
96 i30 5sp
Your post was very interesting. I will call the service manager and discuss this. This would be a good start to getting the car right if i was to keep it... That I'm not too sure I will do "Thanks"
It is all enclosed underneath by metal u shaped flange, can't determine what it is from underneath. Are there any w/ 02 Accords who happen to notice this....?
In post #3176 auburn63 said a 1457 code was a bad cannister vent shut valve-is that the 3 way valve that sits on top of the cannister? Under extended warranty a dealer replaced this valve-no code for a few months then more 1457-then replaced the gas cap-no code now except when I accelerate very hard a couple of times-then CEL back on again-assume it is the same code-flashes 90 when ground out the 2 wires under the glove box.
Now I think the problem is caused when the vac gets pulled very low under hard acceleration-does that sound like a EGR lack of flow-if so what should I replace.
Thanks much auburn63-really appreciate your support.
Fairly positive that your clutch set up is hydraulic and the master cylynders do go bad often. Look under your dash at where the clutch pedal area is and look for leakage down the inside firewall. You will probably find it leaking and if so start with a new master. The clutch could also be worn but start with any known bad components externally first. Also check at the transmission and see if the slave cylynder is leaking. If no leaks then the presure plate is most likely bad.. Good luck
bburton1 Code 90 can be either a P1456 or 1457 and the test route is a bit diferant for each. The 56 is almost always a loose gas cap and or wrong gas cap. Make sure the cap has the words "IF NOT TIGHTENED 3 CLICKS, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT MAY COME on." If so and you know it was tight then maybe it is a 57 which is the rest of the system. Since the cvs was replaced then I would look carefully at the pink colored hoses next to the canister as spiders get up in them and clog them up.. Good luck and try to get the P code from someone as that will help..
Thanks auburn63-I am assuming you are referring to the "drain" line hooked to this switch. Mine is made of clear plastic-probably because it was built in Japan-have looked at it before and will do so again-maybe slip it off and blow it out.
one of the hoses goes down from the valve ontop of the canister to a Y fitting, in one hose of the Y is a two way valve and the other I believe is just a hose. You want to make sure that all three of those hoses are clear of debris. If they test ok by blowing through them then maybe take the valve back off and look at the "O" ring under it and see if it looks ok. They sometimes get rolled back over on install. There are other things that it could be also but the test vary depending on which code it is (P1456 or P1457).
I can tell the door locks are cycling because the doors make the same noise that's heard when the doors actually lock. The only difference is that the locks themselves don't move. Any ideas?
I found this message board a while back and since I'm at the end of my rope with the local dealer, I thought I'd try to get an answer here. I own an 01 Accord EX Coupe. For about 8 months now, I've had a problem with the door locks whenever the locks are in the down position and locked. Once I lock the doors, periodically the door locks will cycle on their own, repeatedly, although the locks themselves do not move.
Of course, I wasn't able to duplicate the problem with the service department, but they installed a new door lock actuator as a shot in the dark; it did not solve the problem. I'm tired of leaving work early to take my car in for service. Has anyone else out there had this problem? If so, what was the malfunctioning component, and what did the dealer do about it?
If you can shed some light on the problem, I'd greatly appreciate it...I'm out of ideas.
The possiblities are endless and verifying the problem is the best way to diag it, However you could try resetting the many control units. Many of the electronic components in automobiles have computer chips. Besides ECMs/ PCMs, you’ll find them stashed in audio units; speedometers; odometers; clocks; climate control systems; control units for ABS, TCS, ATTS, and SRS; security systems; keyless remote transmitters; and multiplex control units. The downsides of all this high-tech stuff are software glitches or bugs, and vulnerability to voltage spikes. And if that isn’t enough, static electricity, lightning, ultraviolet light, strong magnetic fields, radio waves, and radar can make a software bug even worse. Before you replace a suspected electronic component, try these tips first. They could spare you unnecessary replacement. Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables, and touch them together for a few minutes. This forces all capacitors in the component to drain, which clears and resets the computer chip. If a software glitch is the cause, resetting the chip this way is usually as effective as installing a new component.
Thinking of purchasing a 2002 Accord SE but concerned about the quality issues I'm reading about here. My reason for purchasing an accord would be quality only, for the seats are very uncomfortable plus sit too low. I'm wondering if the transmission problems, leaky sunroofs and warning lights (that one must pay 80+ dollars to have turned off) is minor and on limited cars, (not minor for the car owners it happens on) but are the problems on lemons only? What to do?
I for one have had no problems with my 2000 EXV6, except for a few minor rattles which have been fixed. That said, I wouldn't buy any car if the seats were uncomfortable for me. Since the odds are the Accord will last for a long time with minimal problems, you're going to be uncomfortable for a long time. Pick another reliable car that has seats that feel good to you. Before you buy, take a long test drive to be sure the seats are ok for you. Some dealers will have a problem letting you take an extended test drive. Once they understand you won't buy without one, they will generally let you drive it for an hour or so. If not, find another dealer.
Our 1999 EX-V6 Honda Accord with 38k on it has a new problem: A loud squeel is heard backing up when the brake pedal is depressed. No noise without the break. No problem when braking forward. This sounds like the break adjusters to me. Anybody have any comments about how Honda's adjusters work? This is our first problem. We love the vehicle and will drive it until it turns to dust.
Comments
107,000 miles
Has anyone had any experience with their ABS light coming on? When I add fluid, it goes out. There are TSBs out about how to fix a leaking modulator, but my dealer says that it's malfunctioning. When the light is out, the ABS work fine. I've called Honda Customer Service and they're supposed to get back to me within 3-5 business days (it's been 4.75 business days). I don't know whether they are saying to replace the modulator when all it is is a leak or if there's really a problem, it's a safety issue. I've also posted a complaint to the NHTSA web site. Thanks!
You have a car that is seven years old with over 100,000 miles on it!
Things happen!
Have your dealer or another shop fix the car!
It could be something small like a wheel sensor or maybe something worse.
Do you expect it to be fixed for free?
Not a flame but I'm curious.
I had a couple more questions though.
First, is there anywhere else to get keys copied besides the dealer if there's one of those computer chips in them? I've called around, and it doesn' seem like they do it anywhere, but I just thought I'd check for something cheaper.
Also, my car came off a lease in another city, and I got it at an auction through a broker, and I was wondering if there was any way to find out what service my car has had in the past or will need in the future. Is there any central records agency or something like that?
Also, any new suggestions about that check engine light would be great too. Thanks.
1) my dealer is asking me to pay $1000 for a repair that may not even be necessary.
2) if the repair is valid, the ABS is a safety feature that should not malfunction at 100,000
Don't get me wrong, I love Hondas. This is my first post at the town hall and I'm a little taken aback at the tone of the responses.
When I told the dealership/service folks about this, they said they would give the entire braking and ABS system a complete inspection. According to their findings, the ABS system is working properly. Should I trust them? I don't remember feeling that "bump, bump, bump" type of vibration normally associated with ABS activation.
Or is the Honda ABS smoother than most other brands?
Just slam on the brakes and see what happens. If you are a wet, slippery road or a gravel road, they should work just like you expect.
Is there anything I should know about or is it just a coincidence?
The malfuntion indicator light of my Honda Accord LX 2.3 2000 (13K mileage) came on today after i drove about 1 mile.
The temp gauge is below the middle (no overheat), oil change and gas fillup a few weeks ago, gas cap is tight as instructed.
Any clue on what happened.
Thanks
**********
I'm not trying to be negative but just see if anyone has had the misfortunes that I've experienced with my new car over the last two years.
In August of 2000 I made a decision at age 42 to buy a new car. I've had success with used cars mainly The Ford Taurus. We were also going to have our first child in December so I figured for safety and reliability to get a brand new car. I was going after the new Taurus, but after going to a few web sights there was one thing in common, everyone was having problems with the motor. Didn't want to buy a new car and have that kinda problem, so I read up on reviews of cars
in that same class. There was constant raving about the Honda Accord, for reliability, resale value, & safety>>>
So I decided to go down to my local Honda dealership and try one out. I was pretty impressed to say the least. It took me a bout a week of looking at other cars for me to realize there was only one car to buy for my family. I bought a 2000 Honda EX & was very excited !!!!.
Since then I have had numerous nagging problems. The gas mileage is awful. I get 18 miles at best with 50/50 city to highway, properly inflated tires and I'm not lead footed or a fast starter. I have been to the dealership and they checked things out on the computer and they said everything is fine. My method of checking was to fill till shutoff, record the miles driven, fill up till shut off again and divide the miles by the gallons. I did that for several fill ups and came up with very consistant numbers. The only disparity was if I did more city than highway then I could get as little as 14+ MPG. The old 8 cylinder 1970 Impala I drove whne i was a teenager faired better, & drove like a cowboy.
This situation became so annoying I contacted
Honda of america. They were pretty smug, I was very surprised, I thought they would be a little more amenable. They suggested they could do a consumption test and after that there was nothing they would do. My dealership did the consuption test but for only 40 miles. They said that they drove 20 miles city and the same highway following Honda's guidelines. They came up with 19 MPG and that was within acceptibility for Honda. The 18/28 MPG that was posted on the sticker when I bought it was a mirage. I later learned these figures were compiled under perfect conditions and a max of 45 on the highway.
I still liked the car overall so I sucked it up and went forward. Since then I have been back twice for the engine light coming on, twice for the Airbag light staying on, once for the low fuel light refusing to go off, now the side air bag light does a appearing and dis-appearing act and no ones leaning on the door.
If anything scatches the paint a little bit it takes it to the metal.
I guess they don't put as much paint on as they used to.
Also now The tranny hesitates before kicking into gear going from first to second gear.
I am so tired of going to the dealership. I thought with a new car one thing would be less trips to the shop.
Most of my complaints I know are small, and would be very liveable if there weren't so many of them . There were a few other I didn't mention. I have 31k on the odometer and I'm really leaning on trading it in before the 36k. I really like the car, that's the shame.
I have really tried to convey my displeasure in a diplomatic way to American Honda and they take a very difensive posture. They just keep telling me to take it to my dealer, and my dealer keeps telling me to call American Honda.
I contacted 1-800-lemon and they told me I need three occurances of the same problem after they've been corrected for me to have a case. I've also contacted the Attorney General's office.
I just thought with a new car things would be a little less aggravating. I also thought American Honda would at least investigate this matter, gather the fact before taking a stance.
Even though this has been a bad experience this could just be one bad car.I thought with another Honda Accord I would have the car that people have been raving about and a car I wouldn't mind recommending to friends and family, but so far I'm not to happy...
My apologies for all the air but I needed to vent a little.... Anyone else have any similar experiences ???
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#2 of 3 If the car is a 4-cylinder... by bodydouble Aug 27, 2002 (07:50 pm)
then the gas mileage is definitely low. The tranny hesitating is a concern. That's definitely a sign of tranny problem. Take it in pronto before the warranty runs out!!
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#3 of 3 by kirstie_h HOST Aug 28, 2002 (08:28 am)
Sorry about your problems, cheddar1. We do have an active topic about Honda Accord Problems, which is the best place to continue this discussion. Just click on my link and you're there.
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
I mean, you have a seven year old car with over 100,000 miles on it and it kinda sounds like you may be expecting the manufacturer to watrranty the car forever.
A lot of components on a car are safety related. do you think these items should be covered under warranty forever? I'm just curious, that's all.
As far as the dealer. If you are concerned about the diagnosis, you should try a different dealer.
good luck!
On the other hand, maybe I've been just lucky.........
Neither car gave us the slightest trouble. I would rate paint quality as average to above-average, and I've owned everything German and Japanese [52 of them] in the past 40 years. Fuel consumption for the 4 cyl was 24 avg, with 29-30 on trips; for the V6, about 2 mpg less.
What this means to your case is, in the final analysis, very little, I guess, except that statistically, you are a member of a small minority group. I suggest you sell the car post-haste and move on. I doubt seriously if any repair efforts, especially if you have no trust in the local dealers, will be satisfactory.
Every manufacturer of products as complex as the modern automobile is going to make mistakes, and you are an innocent victim of the law of averages. You can keep fighting it, or get on with the rest of your automotive life. I would suggest the latter.
It won't be any consolation to know that there are owners of every make currently sold in the US with stories like yours. I pay attention to all of the makes that have graced my garage in the past 4 decades [MB, BMW, Toyota, Honda, Audi, VW, Porsche, Nissan], and none of them are immune to the phenomenon of the occasional "bad one".
Incidentally, our '88 Taurus was mostly satisfactory for the 15000 miles I had it; our '92 Sable was a rolling disaster that redefined the word "lemon"....
Yes, it will cost you money to sell and buy another, but there will be less psychic cost. Do it now or do it later, but it sounds like you will not be happy with the car.
Just realize that you take a chance of getting a lemon from any car maker. Yes, it's possible to have an individual Taurus that's a better car than an individual Accord, but the odds are against it. (I've had both, BTW)
I have a 1998 V6 Accord and have NEVER gotten less than 22 mpg on a tank of gas...I usually get 24 to 26 mpg with a mix of highway and other driving. I've also had virtually no problems with it. So, as they say, "your mileage may vary".
And I agree. If someone has lost confidence in a product they will forever look for problems.
It's probably best to sell it and move on.
Funny...a Taurus is one of the most troublesome cars on the road. Still, they can be trouble free for some owners. go figure?
Your story reminds of my experience with a Whirlpool dishwasher, the best rated appliance. Mine went through transmission couplers every 6 mos. to the tune of $125. each time. The repair man kept telling me the washer is over loaded. After the 3rd repair, I decided to dump it. I researched washers again, and guess what? I ended up buying another Whirlpool, which has been perfect for 3 years now. Even the most reliable brand does put out a lemon once in awhile.
Good luck to you.....
Thx,
AL..
While I agree with that statement, it doesn't really apply to a lemon. What about the owner who wants to have confidence, yet is forever having problems? What about someone who loves the car, but hates the fact that it constantly proves unreliable? The onus is not on the back of the owner in this situation. He doesn't simply lose faith and start conjuring up problems. The problems start first, then comes the erosion of confidence. Either way, it's time to move on.
New problem: Now that my radiator is good, it seems my clutch/gear shifter is acting up. I have two separate things happening. #1 the clutch pedal does not want to return to the fully extended position. It engages and disengages the clutch mechanism, but the pedal only returns half way up? #2 When the clutch is engaged, I have to force the gear shift into gear. No grinding, it just takes some effort to push it into gear (even when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor). It seems to get better as you work through the gears 1-2-3-4..., but something is definitely wrong. Some people have mentioned cable adjustment for the clutch and bushing replacement for the shifter??? Am I looking at a clutch replacement??? Please advise...
Beachnut wrapped it up best.
Isellhondas I don't want to be rude but your too biased. Always looking for something ??? I have been trying to convince myself everyday that the problems i've had are liveable and have stated that I would like to buy another Honda Accord. My
biggest dissapointment is that American Honda
won't even try and gather facts first before taking a stance. They wouldn't have to do much to
give me reassurance and win me back.
Mike
The whirlpool story was a good one. It's a shame that the consumer who continues to make these
corporations and their affiliates rich has to endure so much of the brunt when there is a problem. I guess i've been very lucky with
household appliances.
BodyDouble
I concur
JRCT
I'm glad that you've remained unscathed.
The only problem I have is that when the occasional bad one hits the street that
a reliable company should recognize that and work with the consumer to make it right. I'm sure most consumers would be willing to meet somewhere in the middle thats fair to both parties. America Honda in my case was quick to get defensive and
draw a line, not gather facts and then make a discernment. I will move forward ...
Malachy
I can assure you i won't let things go that far.
Thanks for the input.
Badger fan
I would reconsider buying a Taurus. It's something I'm familiar and comfortable with.
The accord, outside of the problems, has been
a good car. The car has very good safety features and is pretty solid for its size. It's gonna be a tough decision. i know i'm getting rid of the car before the warrany expires.
Tim Adams
The car since I've purchased it in August of 2000
for $ 21,900 with 4 miles on it is now worth about
16,000-17,000 dollars with 30k. If the dealer or American Honda would sell me the car for a fair price near invoice I would do that. Two months ago they( dealership) offered me $ 17,000 for my car and wouldn't budge off the sticker price saying they are giving me a great price for my car. In my mind the trade and the pruchase are "TWO" seperate transactions unrelated. My problem is that this is the only dealership for new Honda's in my area.
Your advice is pretty close to my top choice.
96 i30 5sp
Your post was very interesting. I will call the service manager and discuss this. This would
be a good start to getting the car right if i was to keep it... That I'm not too sure I will do
"Thanks"
Beachnut wrapped it up best.
Isellhondas I don't want to be rude but your too biased. Always looking for something ??? I have been trying to convince myself everyday that the problems i've had are liveable and have stated that I would like to buy another Honda Accord. My
biggest dissapointment is that American Honda
won't even try and gather facts first before taking a stance. They wouldn't have to do much to
give me reassurance and win me back.
Mike
The whirlpool story was a good one. It's a shame that the consumer who continues to make these
corporations and their affiliates rich has to endure so much of the brunt when there is a problem. I guess i've been very lucky with
household appliances.
BodyDouble
I concur
JRCT
I'm glad that you've remained unscathed.
The only problem I have is that when the occasional bad one hits the street that
a reliable company should recognize that and work with the consumer to make it right. I'm sure most consumers would be willing to meet somewhere in the middle thats fair to both parties. America Honda in my case was quick to get defensive and
draw a line, not gather facts and then make a discernment. I will move forward ...
Malachy
I can assure you i won't let things go that far.
Thanks for the input.
Badger fan
I would reconsider buying a Taurus. It's something I'm familiar and comfortable with.
The accord, outside of the problems, has been
a good car. The car has very good safety features and is pretty solid for its size. It's gonna be a tough decision. i know i'm getting rid of the car before the warrany expires.
Tim Adams
The car since I've purchased it in August of 2000
for $ 21,900 with 4 miles on it is now worth about
16,000-17,000 dollars with 30k. If the dealer or American Honda would sell me the car for a fair price near invoice I would do that. Two months ago they( dealership) offered me $ 17,000 for my car and wouldn't budge off the sticker price saying they are giving me a great price for my car. In my mind the trade and the pruchase are "TWO" seperate transactions unrelated. My problem is that this is the only dealership for new Honda's in my area.
Your advice is pretty close to my top choice.
96 i30 5sp
Your post was very interesting. I will call the service manager and discuss this. This would
be a good start to getting the car right if i was to keep it... That I'm not too sure I will do
"Thanks"
Now I think the problem is caused when the vac gets pulled very low under hard acceleration-does that sound like a EGR lack of flow-if so what should I replace.
Thanks much auburn63-really appreciate your support.
bburton1
Code 90 can be either a P1456 or 1457 and the test route is a bit diferant for each. The 56 is almost always a loose gas cap and or wrong gas cap. Make sure the cap has the words "IF NOT TIGHTENED 3 CLICKS, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT MAY
COME on." If so and you know it was tight then maybe it is a 57 which is the rest of the system. Since the cvs was replaced then I would look carefully at the pink colored hoses next to the canister as spiders get up in them and clog them up.. Good luck and try to get the P code from someone as that will help..
thanks again.
Of course, I wasn't able to duplicate the problem with the service department, but they installed a new door lock actuator as a shot in the dark; it did not solve the problem. I'm tired of leaving work early to take my car in for service. Has anyone else out there had this problem? If so, what was the malfunctioning component, and what did the dealer do about it?
If you can shed some light on the problem, I'd greatly appreciate it...I'm out of ideas.
automobiles have computer chips. Besides ECMs/
PCMs, you’ll find them stashed in audio units;
speedometers; odometers; clocks; climate control
systems; control units for ABS, TCS, ATTS, and
SRS; security systems; keyless remote transmitters; and multiplex control units.
The downsides of all this high-tech stuff are
software glitches or bugs, and vulnerability to
voltage spikes. And if that isn’t enough, static
electricity, lightning, ultraviolet light,
strong magnetic fields, radio waves, and
radar can make a software bug even worse.
Before you replace a suspected electronic
component, try these tips first. They could spare you unnecessary replacement.
Disconnect the positive and negative battery
cables, and touch them together for a few
minutes. This forces all capacitors in the
component to drain, which clears and resets
the computer chip. If a software glitch is the
cause, resetting the chip this way is usually as
effective as installing a new component.
All cars will have glitches from time to time.
Some makes will be much worse than others.
This is our first problem. We love the vehicle and will drive it until it turns to dust.