I have no problems to report. My "J" 4 cyl '01 LX auto has always driven and shifted properly. Just posting to let others know that the transmission warranty extension document arrived today. So others should be getting them soon.
At 79k, I've only had to replace front pads(~68k) and fluids so far. Still it is reassuring to have that document in the glove box.
Oh and I am looking for replacement tires. Those darn Michelins didn't make it to 100k...LOL
anyone know anything about a hesitation between 1st and 2nd or 2nd and 3rd? I just bought a 99 accord 4 cyl. auto and have not been happy with the shifting.
Did you fix the reason the light is on? If not and if the seat was out it probably didnt get plugged back in if the car has side air bags. There is a procedure for the clear but it is easier to hook up a scan tool and clear it.
bodydouble Although you can do the tweak tie rod method and get the wheel straight it is not prefered because it is not a precise way of repair and can actually take the toe out of adjustment. Alignment machine is about the only correct way to set it. A slight shift in steering rack position or beam can cause this and is usally the reason why.
But what would cause the shift in the steering rack position? As I said before I don't do things like run into curbs when parking. Can it result from just normal driving? It doesn't mean there is a serious or latent defect, does it?
Cool your jets Isell. This forum is titled "Problems". Maybe he's like me and likes to tinker a bit but not get into anything too deep and is just looking for ideas to try before taking it to a shop and maybe also save a few bucks. We're all not rich car salesmen.....
Worked like a charm. It took a small piece of speaker wire and less than 5 minutes. A very simple procedure. Thanks a ton. I love this board for situations just like this. Only hope I can help someone else someday.
that all went well. I stumbled across that procedure and saved it for future reference. I haven't had to use it yet, but it is good to know that it works.
Pretty informative site also.
I am curious why you had to join 2 sites to get to this procedure. I only registered on superhonda.
I have a 2002 Accord EX-V6 coupe with just over 5K miles on the clock, and I've had a couple issues.
Most recent, and most important to me, is a distinct click that I hear when I apply the brake to shift out of Park. It sounds like it is coming from near the gearshift. I first noticed the noise when I left work last night, and heard it both times I took it out of Park today. The click doesn't happen any other time.
Second, a minor issue, is the moonroof squeak/rattle. For me, it happens when the roof is CLOSED, and I go over rough parts of road in town. When it's open or even tilted, there is no rattle. I can reach up and push on the (closed) roof and can hear the squeak from the rubber strips compressing, and it sounds exactly like what I hear over bumps.
I plan to see the dealer about the apparent shift interlock switch click, but is this likely to become a serious problem in the immediate future? And is there anything that can be done about my moonroof rattle?
Check your tire pressures! Chances are they are overinflated. S/B around 30 psi cold.
Can't make sense of your brake symptoms, except the possiblity of warped rotors, which is really discouraging on a brand new car. There have been a lot of complaints about warped rotors in the '03s, but you generally have to get some miles on it for that to happen. Otherwise....?
bodydouble Normal driving situations can cause this and no, no major problems or defects as I dont see any..
ronsteve Slip tape for the sunroof works the best so far but if not available then Shin-Etsu greese works well also just not as long lasting of a repair.
ronsteve: I think that click sound when you apply the brakes shifting out of Park is a normal by-product of the shiftlock mechanism. I think it's just that in some cars it is more muted.
I just bought an 97 accord. It vibrates at between 35 - 40 mph. When I release gas and crank it up then runs ok. Would someone tell me the problem & solution. I have 76k miles in it.
I purchased my 03'Accord Oct/02. Which I thought would be my last of five that I have owned in five years. I tested them all out and this one suited me so well. I was proud of this car 100% more than any of the others for the styling and maneuverability. BUT, that all changed when my husband and I returned home from Houston on a trip. While unpacking the car I noticed the map that had been lying on the back seat was WET. That was the beginning of the problems. Then I started searching for the water source. We keep the floor mats turned rubber side up to keep trash and mud of the carpet but when I lifted the rear passenger mat up I could not believe my eyes water was standing in the floor board. My heart sank, at this point I think it may have been in my big toe. We brought it to the servive dept. and they said this is the first one like this they have seen. So far my car is a complete mystery to the Honda service dept.. Needless to say I am stuck driving a Daewoo that I have been driving for almost two weeks. And still no light at the end of the tunnel on my car. And on my car the svc. dept. has removed the whole interior of my car out such as : head liner,gearshift,glove box,seats,door panels and still no sign of reproducing the leak for them. SORRY THIS IS SO LONG I HAVE LOTS OF ANGER AND FRUSTRATION TO LET OUT. IF ANYONE HAS THIS SAME PROBLEM OR HAS HEARD OF THIS LET ME KNOW.
Unless you drove through some deep puddles, I doubt the water actually came from underneath. I would say more than likely it was rainwater seeped in through faulty rubber door seals and ran down under the carpet. Have you approach the dealer's manager or American Honda about possibly replacing with a new car? Is there an arbitration process available in your state? How about lemon laws?
If it is, have them check the sunroof drains to see if they are blocked. You have to run a flexible "rooter" kind of thing through the drains to clean any blockage. Other possibilities abound, including a bad door or rear window seal, but I would start with the roof if this is an EX.
Thanks for your response. Yes the service people have checked the seals and said that is not the problem. As far a new car no I have not approached them. I live in Louisiana and we do have arbitration and lemon laws. I am checking into that as we speak. They have also checked the sunroof drains and that's not the problem either. They are speaking with Honda everyday and getting new ideas to test out on my car everyday(or when they get a chance). We did not go through any deep water just heavy rains. That is why I cannot understand why my back seat was wet. It is like my back seat had gotten so soaked that the excess ran off into my floor board. Even the back of the back seat and seat belt was wet. My husband thinks it may have been a loose bolt that did not seal off completely or maybe a loose rubber boot under the under body. And he give that suggestion to them and they have not even looked into that for us.
There is a reason for this. Could it be possible the back window was down(even just a little)? I would think for the seat to get so soaked something would have been noticeable while it was occuring. And I don't think the water could have wicked up from the lowest level to such a great degree as you have described. Was something that was soaking wet put in/on the back seat. Or could something that was holding water(like a cooler) have leaked in that area? Just a few thoughts.
In 1977 we bought a Volvo, and soon discovered a puddle of water on the rear floor after a rain. The dealer said they fixed something, but after the next rain the puddle appeared again. We took it back to the dealer and they sprayed water on it, but there was no leak. Then we parked the car on a slope like it was on our driveway, sprayed water on the car, and the water quickly started running into the back floor.
The trouble was a leak in the front of the car, so they pulled up the carpet, put in some more sealant, and the problem was solved.
Your leak sounds a lot more serious. I think they should give you a new car. Good luck.
most likely your problm is an exhaust system buzz caused by the gasket in the small pipe before the cat. Usally makes this buzz at 1800 rpms. Can be fixed with new gaskets and spring bolts but the repair doesnt last forever.
Hi, Anyone noticing steering wheel vibration on '03 Accord's auto.tranny? Test drove 2 (at 2 dealers) and both had it, although one less than the other. Seems to appear when idling and in Drive or Reverse. Odd that the '03 Civic we tested had no vibration in the wheel at all.
And wheels why are the brakes exposed? Except ABS which has cover.
I have 90 Accord with 192K, 5 spd. Engine is still very strong and I am keeping it for at least a year. I invested quite a lot of money to keep the car going, replaced all parts myself. Here's what I have changed: front brake rotors, bearings, pads, all suspension bushings and shocks. All parts are oem except shocks, and there my problem lies.
Since I changed the shocks, the front left one has developed a squeak at all speed, even standing still, if you bounce the car. I thought I have a bad shock, so got a new one (all shocks are Gaberial form autozone) to replace this one. But once I took it off and disassemble it, the shock made no noise and has perfect bounce etc. I thought I may have some dry seal or strut ribber etc, so I applied grease to each and every matting part of whole shock. Put it back did a bounce check, the noise continues for 3-4 bounces but disappear after that. I was content.
But after a week of driving it has come back again and its driving me crazy, since I need to have alignment done also b/c of the whole suspension replacement etc, but I want to tackle this shock problem first.
Looks like the squeek is comming form the lower part of the spring, and IT IS a spring noise, I can tell. Could it be that I compressed the spring in the wrong way etc that made the spring develop this noise? I have changed planty of shocks before and never had this problem with any car.
Sorry for the long post, any advise is appreciated.
I have a 98 Accord with only 39,000 miles and all of a sudden yesterday when I started it up the SRS, ABS, BRAKE and BATTERY warning lights came on. They stayed on for some time and some of them go off but the SRS light stays on. I am not sure what is the problem. May be a blown fuse or a bad alternator? Please let me know if any one has seen this before.
I wonder whether i need to change the following washers when i change: - coolant - ATF
Many thanks.
PS: The reason i am asking is that when i change the engine oil i also replace the corresponding washer. But i am not so sure about these for coolant and ATF.
I don't know much about cars, but my wife keeps complaining about our 2000 Accord (has 370,000 miles on it). She is saying that the ride is not very smooth (compared with other cars) and it's kind of bumpy when the road is not bumpy at all. I can't feel it, but could it be some problems with the suspension? Anybody aware of this problem if it is a problem in the first place? Thanks a lot.
How do I access the rest of the messages? I keep going back and forth between two pages. I have logged in. Just can't figure out how to get into the rest of the discussions
I have 98 Accord with only 35k. Since this summer, I've felt slight vibration with A/C on, especially when the car is idle. Does this indicate something wrong with my car? Is it possible to make this problem go away easily?
have you checked the balancing on the tires? there are so many things that can popup at 37k miles, much less 350k miles w/in 3 years. I would take it to the local tire/suspension shop and see what they say. =o)
Linux70, perhaps it may be the idle setting is too low. maybe you can't adjust it, not sure. If you have mechanical inclinations, it may be worth your while to buy a Haynes or Chilton. I have found them very helpful in the past for troubleshooting small problems.
Hello everybody! The car is Accord LX 2000 with manual tranny, the question is, what can I do to make my clutch pedal a little easier to depress? Please help....
Changed ATF on 00' Accord V6 yesterday, first time with 26,000 miles on it.
Fluid drained with green color, let it settled in container overnight, poured into another container, then it became 2 distingushed kinds of fluid, with color of fresh green and red/brown.
Now how extended the repair will be? Any potential long term damage to the transmission and cooling system?
It has been a year and half since my question on other problem, thank you!
If you want to get real crazy you can, 1.Park the vehicle on level ground. 2.Make sure the fuel tank is full. 3.The driver or someone who weight the same should sit in the driver's seat. 4.Load the trunk with the items you usually carry. 5.Push down on the front and rear bumpers several times to make sure the vehicle is sitting normally.
Now that the technical stuff is out of the way, Clean the outer lens so that you can see the center of the headlights.
Align the center of the headlights to 7.5 m (25 ft) from the wall or a screen, and park the vehicle.
Turn the low beams on. Measure the height of the headlights and the lights should reflect 52 mm (2.1 in.) below headlight height If necessary, adjust the headlights to by turning the vertical adjuster which is the metal teeth spin wheel on the back side.
gye The only way that I can think of coolant in the ATF (other than adding it in your self) would be if the radiator cracked internally into the transmission cooler. I dont think there will be any long term effects but it is hard to say, just flush out both radiator and transmission real good.
Hi, everybody I want to know why my ABS lights is on, My car is 92 Accord EX AT with 170K the car runs perfect by the way I'm located in Duluth,MN thanks
Auburn, just as I was ready for bed, still bothered by coolant in ATF problem, suddenly your words of wisdom "The only way that I can think of coolant in the ATF (other than adding it in your self)" striked me, yes, this damn transmission had leakage about year and half ago, dealer had put some dye into the ATF to trace the source(front seal), but I never bother to had it done, fearing it will never be put back the way it was.
Auburn, is it typical that ATF looks green with dye in it?
BTY I also asked you about the ATF leaking question year and half ago, you seems always be there for us, not only as great tech guy, but also as licensed therapist to calm stired souls, truly "Dr. Phil" for the car guys. Thank you.
Why does Honda recommend 60K trans. fluid changes for my 00 Accord V6, when alot of other cars are at 30K intervals? Would it be wiser on my part, to change trans. fluid every 30K miles instead?
gye Very possible that it could be the tracer dye as usally it is a neon green like color. Shows up nice with a black light when looking for the leak. Sounds like the mystery has been solved..Good memory. Thanks for the kind words also..
cokane5227 I think they got rid off that bubble like indicator in 01. The new way is too measure the height of the lights reflection on the wall.
sumendap1 There are several reasons why it could be on but to get an idea have a look at the abs fluid resevoir and see if it is low or any signs of a leak in the area of the modulator
I drive only at highway speeds and almost never in city traffic. Was waiting till 90K to change ATF in 97 I4 accord-got a CEL at around 70K for the tranny-looked at the ATF and it was a bit brown-did two changes and no more CEL. Now will change at 30K.
Also only use Honda ATF-yeah they don't make it but somebody posted a great deal of info about how tranny's are different-apparently if the ATF has the wrong lubricity-it will cause big problems with the clutch. Just cause it is synthetic ATF does not mean it is right for your tranny.
Just got 03 Accord and has been following the boards for a while. Also got a 02 MDX. How difficult to do routine maintenance at home like oil change, trans fluid etc? Have time and a quite a few tools but not averse to idea of getting tools. Considers myself kinda handyman around the household and thinking of getting into these normal auto maintenance. Is it easy to drain the transmission or brake fluid like the engine oil change?
Auburn, You have been giving some good advice to others on this. Do you think that warranty will be better covered if I get things done from the dealer rather than on my own? I mean to say that God forbids if something goes wrong then can the dealer ask for the records for the oil change and stuff as if I do it on my own then I won't have anything.
It is ok for you to do the work yourself as long as you keep good records and reciepts. Most things covered under warranty won't even be affected but for those that are if you can show proof of purchase you will be ok. The basic stuff on these cars can most likely be handled by you as long as you can get under the car safely. Good luck with your new car.
The owner's manual should show you how to drain the radiator, oil, and transmission.
It does not show anything, that I remember, for the brake work. I've never worked on Honda brakes, but assuming they are like other car's brakes, replacing brake fluid is more complicated than the above other fluids. It takes 2 people, unless you get specialized tools, and you have to know what you are doing and be careful. Otherwise, if you get air in the brake system, you have no brakes. Very dangerous.
I do it alone w/o special tools other than a BF dedicated turkey baster. First thing-suck out the old BF with the TB and put in new fluid. Change pads and when changing them, open the valve on the back of the disc brake mechanism and then push caliper back in and the old fluid will squirt out. Close as you arrive at the end of the caliper's run back into the mechanism and u won't get any air in the system. Only got air in it once when had to change the calipers. Yeah no brakes big time-test before going on the road.
What about the old fluid in the lines between the master cylinder and each wheel?
This should also be replaced. Which requires a vacumn pump (a $25 hand one will do) or someone to press on the brake pedal while you open the bleed screw.
And pushing the piston back into the caliper with the bleed screw open is somewhat risky as to getting air in the system.
Comments
At 79k, I've only had to replace front pads(~68k) and fluids so far. Still it is reassuring to have that document in the glove box.
Oh and I am looking for replacement tires. Those darn Michelins didn't make it to 100k...LOL
bodydouble
Although you can do the tweak tie rod method and get the wheel straight it is not prefered because it is not a precise way of repair and can actually take the toe out of adjustment. Alignment machine is about the only correct way to set it. A slight shift in steering rack position or beam can cause this and is usally the reason why.
Still, he wasn't talking about a squeak in the sunroof! I would hate for his suspension to fall apart in the fast lane during rush hour.
Pretty informative site also.
I am curious why you had to join 2 sites to get to this procedure. I only registered on superhonda.
Most recent, and most important to me, is a distinct click that I hear when I apply the brake to shift out of Park. It sounds like it is coming from near the gearshift. I first noticed the noise when I left work last night, and heard it both times I took it out of Park today. The click doesn't happen any other time.
Second, a minor issue, is the moonroof squeak/rattle. For me, it happens when the roof is CLOSED, and I go over rough parts of road in town. When it's open or even tilted, there is no rattle. I can reach up and push on the (closed) roof and can hear the squeak from the rubber strips compressing, and it sounds exactly like what I hear over bumps.
I plan to see the dealer about the apparent shift interlock switch click, but is this likely to become a serious problem in the immediate future? And is there anything that can be done about my moonroof rattle?
Can't make sense of your brake symptoms, except the possiblity of warped rotors, which is really discouraging on a brand new car. There have been a lot of complaints about warped rotors in the '03s, but you generally have to get some miles on it for that to happen. Otherwise....?
Normal driving situations can cause this and no, no major problems or defects as I dont see any..
ronsteve
Slip tape for the sunroof works the best so far but if not available then Shin-Etsu greese works well also just not as long lasting of a repair.
We have lots of 2003 Accords sitting outside in our heave Seattle rain and I've heard of no leakers.
Pretty unlikely the sunroof drains would be plugged at this early stage in the car's life but that's the first place I would look on an older one.
The trouble was a leak in the front of the car, so they pulled up the carpet, put in some more sealant, and the problem was solved.
Your leak sounds a lot more serious. I think they should give you a new car. Good luck.
Bob
Anyone noticing steering wheel vibration on '03 Accord's auto.tranny? Test drove 2 (at 2 dealers) and both had it, although one less than the other. Seems to appear when idling and in Drive or Reverse. Odd that the '03 Civic we tested had no vibration in the wheel at all.
And wheels why are the brakes exposed? Except ABS which has cover.
Anyways just wondering..Thanks
Since I changed the shocks, the front left one has developed a squeak at all speed, even standing still, if you bounce the car. I thought I have a bad shock, so got a new one (all shocks are Gaberial form autozone) to replace this one. But once I took it off and disassemble it, the shock made no noise and has perfect bounce etc. I thought I may have some dry seal or strut ribber etc, so I applied grease to each and every matting part of whole shock. Put it back did a bounce check, the noise continues for 3-4 bounces but disappear after that. I was content.
But after a week of driving it has come back again and its driving me crazy, since I need to have alignment done also b/c of the whole suspension replacement etc, but I want to tackle this shock problem first.
Looks like the squeek is comming form the lower part of the spring, and IT IS a spring noise, I can tell. Could it be that I compressed the spring in the wrong way etc that made the spring develop this noise? I have changed planty of shocks before and never had this problem with any car.
Sorry for the long post, any advise is appreciated.
I wonder whether i need to change the following washers when i change:
- coolant
- ATF
Many thanks.
PS: The reason i am asking is that when i change the engine oil i also replace the corresponding washer. But i am not so sure about these for coolant and ATF.
Ken
Thanks,
Atf---yes change the washer with every fluid change. It is aluminum just like the oil plug.
there are so many things that can popup at 37k miles, much less 350k miles w/in 3 years. I would take it to the local tire/suspension shop and see what they say. =o)
Linux70, perhaps it may be the idle setting is too low. maybe you can't adjust it, not sure. If you have mechanical inclinations, it may be worth your while to buy a Haynes or Chilton. I have found them very helpful in the past for troubleshooting small problems.
Fluid drained with green color, let it settled in container overnight, poured into another container, then it became 2 distingushed kinds of fluid, with color of fresh green and red/brown.
Now how extended the repair will be? Any potential long term damage to the transmission and cooling system?
It has been a year and half since my question on other problem, thank you!
1.Park the vehicle on level ground.
2.Make sure the fuel tank is full.
3.The driver or someone who weight the same should sit in the driver's seat.
4.Load the trunk with the items you usually carry.
5.Push down on the front and rear bumpers several times to make sure the vehicle is sitting normally.
Now that the technical stuff is out of the way,
Clean the outer lens so that you can see the center of the headlights.
Align the center of the headlights to 7.5 m (25 ft) from the wall or a screen, and park the vehicle.
Turn the low beams on.
Measure the height of the headlights and the lights should reflect 52 mm (2.1 in.) below headlight height
If necessary, adjust the headlights to by turning the vertical adjuster which is the metal teeth spin wheel on the back side.
gye
The only way that I can think of coolant in the ATF (other than adding it in your self) would be if the radiator cracked internally into the transmission cooler. I dont think there will be any long term effects but it is hard to say, just flush out both radiator and transmission real good.
Thanks,
AL.
02 V6 Acc.
but where is the aiming indicator though? or does it even have an indicator?
Auburn, is it typical that ATF looks green with dye in it?
BTY I also asked you about the ATF leaking question year and half ago, you seems always be there for us, not only as great tech guy, but also as licensed therapist to calm stired souls, truly "Dr. Phil" for the car guys. Thank you.
Very possible that it could be the tracer dye as usally it is a neon green like color. Shows up nice with a black light when looking for the leak. Sounds like the mystery has been solved..Good memory. Thanks for the kind words also..
cokane5227
I think they got rid off that bubble like indicator in 01. The new way is too measure the height of the lights reflection on the wall.
sumendap1
There are several reasons why it could be on but to get an idea have a look at the abs fluid resevoir and see if it is low or any signs of a leak in the area of the modulator
Also only use Honda ATF-yeah they don't make it but somebody posted a great deal of info about how tranny's are different-apparently if the ATF has the wrong lubricity-it will cause big problems with the clutch. Just cause it is synthetic ATF does not mean it is right for your tranny.
Just got 03 Accord and has been following the boards for a while. Also got a 02 MDX. How difficult to do routine maintenance at home like oil change, trans fluid etc? Have time and a quite a few tools but not averse to idea of getting tools. Considers myself kinda handyman around the household and thinking of getting into these normal auto maintenance. Is it easy to drain the transmission or brake fluid like the engine oil change?
Auburn, You have been giving some good advice to others on this. Do you think that warranty will be better covered if I get things done from the dealer rather than on my own? I mean to say that God forbids if something goes wrong then can the dealer ask for the records for the oil change and stuff as if I do it on my own then I won't have anything.
Thanks for your time.
It does not show anything, that I remember, for the brake work. I've never worked on Honda brakes, but assuming they are like other car's brakes, replacing brake fluid is more complicated than the above other fluids. It takes 2 people, unless you get specialized tools, and you have to know what you are doing and be careful. Otherwise, if you get air in the brake system, you have no brakes. Very dangerous.
This should also be replaced. Which requires a vacumn pump (a $25 hand one will do) or someone to press on the brake pedal while you open the bleed screw.
And pushing the piston back into the caliper with the bleed screw open is somewhat risky as to getting air in the system.