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They promised to fix the problem, but just in case they don't work it out soon, what would be the fastest way of getting my security code?
Good Luck.
Compared to when the car was new, I find that the steering reacts more to road imperfections and doesn't seem as precise, or tight, around the on-centre position. At city speeds it seems to require more minute steering corrections to keep it pointed straight. The steering wheel itself is a couple of degrees off-centre. Not that much except it used to be perfectly centred. I have checked tire pressure which is right on. Now I have to add that car does NOT drift or pull. Do you think I still have an alignment issue? Could my toe setting be off which results in the steering being more loose, or "darty"?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
FYI, '03 Japan built Accord EX I4 K24 5MT.
Here's a question for you all, I have noticed that the rocker panels under my doors are loose. If you play with it right behind the front tire, it will rock back and forth. Long story short, traced it to a missing inside screw that is supposed to support the rocker panel that prevents the movement. Curious to see if I am the only one. (Rocker panel is the plastic trim under the doors on the outside) Any feedback would be appreciated.. Easy enough to fix, just curious if it's isolated or not.
In my case, it happens so infrequently that I haven't pursued it, especially since the "reinsert key" approach has worked reliably. It sounds like your problem is worse, so I'd pursue it at the dealership. My suggestion is just something to try until they figure out how to fix it once and for all. If it works, maybe it will at least allay your fears of being stranded. Anyway, hope they can figure out the problem... if they do, please post about the fix.
Now got a CEL code of 45 and that code is either System Too Rich or Lean. One more thing-gas mileage just went down from an average of 30mph to 27 mph-never seen hwy miles this low before.
According to the shop manual it could be:
assuming too rich:
-fuel Pressure Regulator clogged, stuck closed
-Fuel Return Pipe clogged
-Fuel Injector Leaking
-Gas does not meet specs-bad gas
-Primary HO2S (Sensor 1) deteriorated
-EGR System insufficient flow
-EVAP Purge Control SOlenoid Valve leakign, stuck open
-Valve clearance
It has 147K miles-plugs, ignition wiring and rotor replaced 35K ago and a couple of 1457 codes in the past.
Any ideas-what should I try first.
thanks
bburton1
Run dont walk into your nearest Honda dealer as your car may need a component covered under the emissions extension warranty upto 150,000 or 14 years. If you havent gotten a free tune up yet as part of this campaign you can get one of those also..Other than that my first thought was going to be a bad distributor cap or coil..but try the free way first good luck
Now, if you hold your cell phone close to the key while you're cranking the ignition, then I can sort of see perhaps the the cell phone interfering with the chip.
The small inner one-way door that the nozzle pushes in when adding gas has disappeared on my 2002 LxV6 with 13K miles. I assume that it has fallen off into the gas tank. I have never heard of such a thing happening. I imagine that this will waste at least a 1/2 day of my time to get fixed. Is it worth worrying about? Can this part clog my fuel intake? Is it really necessary? Can it be retrieved through the trunk access? Is this a warranty item? Any help is greatly appreciated.
try checking your vacuum hoses for cracks/looseness, I would probably drop a real good fuel system cleaner in to see if it is a fuel related problem, if it gets a little better, it may be the culprit. Check the throttle cables to make sure they are at least snug and not loose, and I would hook up a timing light to verify timing is on, hand in hand, I would probably pull the plugs and check the wear to make sure that all cylindars are firing normally, you can usually tell if the engine is running lean/rich, plugs running hot/cold, etc by the spark plug. just a few cheap thoughts. =o)
BTW you can also buy a fuel injector test kit for about 40 at the local auto store. If it's happening all of a sudden, I don't think it's a valve/fuel problem. Could be though.
That is a covered component if it is bad..
fuel flap, did they not get rid of those? I thought they did but maybe I am wrong, I will try and check..
It always seems my car problems come in bunches.
Neways..here goes.
1994 Accord. 140,000 kms.
Car stalls while running. This has happened twice in the last three days. Was exiting driveway and car shut off. Tried starting. It was cranking but would not start. Finally after 5-6 tries and pushing it back up driveway. It started.
Then it ran perfectly for another day. Next day same thing happened.
Car cranks. So is this a fuel problem? I remember reading about similar messages a while back. Is this a common fix.
Thanks in advance
and left it overnight since the loud thump only happens in the morning.They didn't hear anything and couldn't duplicate it. I know there's a couple of people out there with this problem (sounds like it's exploding when you start it). Any other people out there with this problem and
any solutions.
Possibibly could be a bad ignition switch as they sometimes loose there connection in the run mode but work fine in the start and acc modes. Other than that the choices are many but my money is on the switch. You should loose the dash warning lights when it acts up, try wiggiling the key and see if you can make it stall..good luck
Are there any other symptoms? I rember for the last few months when turning the car off it would sound funny. Like a hole in the exhaust. Cannot explain it.
Thanks neways. Are those ignition switches expensive?
What should I try to do next? I already told the dealer I wanted a new car after all of the problems I have been having with this one. They didnt like that idea. It seems like everytime I take it in for service they screw something else up or make things worse. Any ideas? Anyone want to buy a Graphite Pearl 03 Accord EX V6?
Keep us posted...
Fuel filter... have you changed it recently? It's supposed to be changed like every 15k mi(22,5KM?) or so same as Air filter.
Plugs, Plug wires, Cap, Rotor inspection/replacement time. (if you haven't)
carb cleaner for the throttle body. =o)
oh, and add in the fuel system cleaner.
Can't hurt, hope this helps some.
Well, you (Honda lovers) won't like me for this, but I have gone back to Nissan's. Since my '90 Stanza (traded it for accord) never had a problem I went back to the Nissan dealer and bought an Altima SE and hope it is as reliable as my Stanza was. I can also add that the dealer is definately easier/pleasant to deal with -they actually want your business.
Too bad you had a bad experience with your Honda dealer, but they aren't all like that. And ironically, the nearest Nissan dealer to me has a terrible reputation for sleazy sales tactics and rotten service. However, equally ironic is the fact that the same people have a Honda dealership that's got just as bad a reputation. That's why I went elsewhere.
Also asked him what happened if the too rich condition burns out the cat-no problem-replace anything at no cost that is connected to the emissions control system.
Here is another item I learned. If you CEL thingy starts flashing-stop immediately-means you have a potential engine destroying condition occuring. Get it towed. Did not know they could flash. Learn something every day. Oh and when I buy my new accord-this dealer will get first crack at my bus. Most of the crooks I have encountered at dealerships are out front selling the cars-on occasion have found crooks in the back also-but not nearly as prevalent. Oh I sell for a living so I do not hate sales people and understand what they are about.
Any suggestions?
thanks for all the great feedback.
I did exactly what you did. Fuel Filter,plugs, Cap, Rotor have all been replaced. I will hold onto the wires.
I put in some fuel system anti-freeze. Cold in these parts. Mechanic said that they could have been water in the tank?
So far no problems. I'll drive carefully for at least a week.
Thanks!
JROCK: If you don't live in cold areas(-20c) or very hot areas (>40c) and change the oil every 6000KM then you need not switch to synthetic. I am in the same dilemma but from little research I found that you have to change the oil filter after every 6000km and keep the oil change interval to 12000km or even 20000km by using synthetic oil. But then again I think if you gonna change your oil too at 6000km then it's not worth to spend double the money on synthetic and draining it out at 6000km.
On tires, I'm looking for a good all-weather tire for the Northeast... Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any/all responses.
Any suggestions please????
Jerry