My 2002 accord is 12 month-old. This winter, it refused to start after I turned the key to ignition. Once, it started the second time I turned the key. The other time, I did three times to get it start. The tempreture should not be a problem, cauz I am down in Florida. the symptom is not exactly the same as yours. The cuase is similar I guess.
I noticed on my Accord it seems like the more miles I get on it idles a little rougher. I took mine in to have it looked at and they gave me a loaner, it was another 2003 EX V6, you couldnt even feel that car idle and it seemed to have a lot more power too. Anyone else notice this?
I've noticed the clicking in the dash with my cell phone too on my 98. The clicking really goes crazy when you get an incoming call! Not sure if it's interference or if it's too much for the electrical system but it sure is annoying.
...it is interference. I used to keep my cellphone in the cubby under the radio on my 98 Accord and I could tell about 1.5 seconds before it rang that I had an incoming call. Same thing with the speakers on my PC (I also get to listen to the truck dispatcher next door through those on occassion).
I installed a cradle and phone mount to rectify that issue and make it hands free as well.
I have just begun driving my first Honda Accord, a 2003 LX 4-cyl with A/T, purchased last week. I have noticed a longer-than-expected delay in the transmission going into gear after the shifter is moved into reverse or drive; this delay is approximately 1 sec long (other A/T's I have driven seem to shift much quicker into gear once the shifter is moved into a drive position).
Also, I sometimes feel a bit of 1st-2nd upshift delay in the new Accord's A/T under normal acceleration (whether warm or cold).
I know the accord transmission is under electronic control; but if I did not know better, I would say there was a low-pressure fluid problem in this A/T. What do all the other 4-cyl. Accord trannies out there feel like? I don't recall feeling a perceptable "going into gear" delay, or any noticable upshift delay, when I test-drove a similar Accord model at another dealer.
I have noticed this slightly, but I like it. I think the tranny was programmed to act like a manual and not shift up until it revs a bit. This probably gives better performance because it's already in a lower gear.
I went to a friends this evening and came back out to leave and it took 3 car three attempts to start. I have had it in the shop 6 times now for this, 3 times overnight, and 2 rental cars later. They have checked the system over totally, ran tests, and even replaced the fuel pump and pressure regulator and I am still having this problem. I dont know what to do, I cant get any help from the dealer, it seems that they cant find anything wrong with it. I see other people on here having similar problems, it is very embarassing to have a brand new car that wont start, let alone I dont want to be stranded somewhere. Can anyone help?
hsvham, i have the ex-l 4 cyl auto which makes our cars mechanically similar.
i've not noticed the symptoms you mention, although it seems the tranny seems to sense when i'm driving aggressively or not. it sometimes holds on to 1st longer and sometimes upshifs right away. i need to log more miles to confirm this.
like my 98-02 gen accord, it likes taking its morning coffee (meaning, warmed up) first before smoothly accepting the "r" or "d."
just to make sure, for longevity's sake, i'd fully warm the engine up before getting it into gear.
Is the ignition switch just clicking or is it cranking but not catching? If it is just clicking it is probably the ignition switch or something with a fuse, starter, etc. If it is turning over but not "starting" it is most likely the immobilizer system kicking in. Try turning the ignition on for a few seconds(don't crank) and watch the light of the engine w/ the key in it. When it turns off, the code(key) has been accepted. Some of the things that could be affecting it is another "chipped" key on the same keyring, even my microchipped badge from work will affect if if I leave it on top of the steering wheel.
Try to remember if you had your cell phone in your hand, etc when these problems happened.
Have you tried removing and reinserting the key after it fails the first time? I have this same problem with my 2000 (very infrequently), and doing this key thing fixes it every time. It does sound like it's happening to you much more often than it does to me.
The other thing I'd do (based on tblazer's post) is to try using the key by itself for a while, not on a key ring, in case anything on your key ring is causing interference.
A few different models. If it IS the immobilizer try getting out of the car and locking the doors. Then unlock them again and try. I remember once I was in an Altima that had me stranded at a gas station. I was standing there for like 15 minutes trying to start the car. Then I thought about it happened to me in my MR2. I got out cycled the keyless and it started right up.
could somebody describe to me how to remove the headlight assemblies on an 02 accord coupe? i need to know how many screws are there and where are they, and how to remove the headlights. tons of thanks in advance. auburn?
On some Honda board somewhere, I read instructions on removing the headlights. I have no idea where this was. They wanted to remove the little yellow 'stripe' in the lights. Which even means the sealed lens had to be cracked open. Pretty dumb thing to do in my opinion, but what people do with their cars.....
Anyway, getting to the headlights appeared to be a major job. What I remember, it required removing the front bumper, or the plastic cover on the bumper. Many screws, bolts, and clips. More than I would casually attempt to do.
And, these instructions were written by a young girl. She was doing major wrenching on her Honda. Impressed me.
Do a google search on 'Honda bulletin boards' or something like that. Then read a lot. Happy hunting!
if you mean check engine light, just spoke with an 00 v6 owner tonight who was charged $80 for a 5-minute "fix" of a "gas fillpipe problem" that triggered the warning light.
he was told that they put sealant on a leak, he suspects it was just a loose gas cap.
could be other things, but could also be as simple as this one. hope it's nothing more serious.
The bumper does need to come off which isnt all that tough and then the headlight is held in by several 10mm bolts. I will try and see if I can find somewhere with diagrams...
thanks for the wonderful information, but after some close up visual inspection, i don't think i will have to remove the bumper to remove the headlights, there seems to be only 3 screws holding the lights to the body.
thanks the the reply auburn, i don't think i will remove the bumper since i found the 3 bolts holding the headlights, but i'm stuck with the 2nd bolt on the bottom of the headlight, it took me 10 mins to take the 1st bolt out, there just isn't enough room to move the the wrench, i went to the local ACE hardware store and found the most maneuverable wrench (i think) and it's still quite hard to remove the bolt since there is very little room, but i wouldn't say it's impossible since it's night time now, i'll take another look tomorrow during the day and it maybe easier to do it. any suggestions?
i have recently noticed on my 2003 Accord EX-V6 that upon turning the car off, the fan noticeably continues to make noise for a good 30 seconds after the car as been turned off..
any ideas? its going to have to wait another week before going to the dealer.
I think the engine fan is suppose to run after the car is turned off until the car cools. In my 92 Accord it does that. On my 2003 EXv6, I think I noticed that too.
thanks the diagram, my mistake, i thought you said the bumper doesn't need to come off, i should start reading slower. =P i'll use the diagram you gave me to remove the bumper, thanks again.
My car key is the only key I carry with me, I dont even have a key ring. I stopped carrying my cell phone with my totally now and there is nothing else in the car. I dont even wear my watch anymore. When the car wont start the immobilizer key symbol doesn't come on the dash. The dealer told me that it would if it was a key problem or security system issue. When it happens the engine just turns over and it wont start. I have not tried to relock and lock the doors again when it doesnt start, I guess I will try that the next time it happens. It seems to be happening about every 7-10 days and everytime it does it it gets worse. Before it would crank right up on the second try, now it is taking 3 or 4 tries to get it started and when it does start it runs a lot rougher.
have the 2003 EX V6 Accord, with around 1500 miles on it, the car is a dream for the amount of money I paid for it . The only problem I haave is when I rev the engie, from around 3,700 to about 4,700 in a quick acceleration terms, the car exhaust smells like rotten eggs. The smell then goes away. The only time I encounter this odor is when I accelerate quickly between the above rpms. Anyone else notice this with their accord. Thanks guys.,
I live in Atlanta, the dealer said $80 for looking into the Check Engine light and any addition cost for sensors etc. Also, I have extended warranty. Would this be covered by that?
for free, as has been stated on this forum before. And yes, you can bet they want to make a sale, but all you have to do is say no. Then you'll be armed with more info. If your failure is emission related, it may still be under federal requirements. Good luck.
If you get the code from Autozone ask the honda guru in this forum for the failure description. He has been very helpful to many in here.
I've heard that your problem is due to the adhesive on a sticky label near one of the vents, you should talk to your dealer to have it removed. I noticed the same thing when I test drove the car.
Have you noticed any vibrations with the car especially the steering wheel when stopped at the lights?
Thanks for your reply. Overall, I am very happy with the car. Responding to your questions: I have noticed a very minute shake when stopped at lights, but nothing out of the ordinary. As for pulling to the right. The car does tend to pull to the right, but after doing a little research I found out that Honda does this for a reason. It pulls very slightly, mainly due to the fact Honda set this up as a safety feature so in case you fall sleep, the car will drift slightly to the right. I checked out a few other cars, the 6 ( Exterior was quite striking, but the interior wasnt up to my expectations) maxima ( a bit pricey with the options and was thirsty for premium fuel), didnt look at the altima because the interior wasnt . Went with the Accord Ex with the V6. The interior is great, the leather is top notch and extremely refined. The styling is growing on me, the lines are amazing on this car. From the way the convex lines scuplt down to a concave angle is very elegant, but not many people notice it. The engine is amazing. Very smooth and plenty of power. I would reccomend. Now I just have to get rid of that rotten egg smell at around 3700-4500 rpm's.
cokane, If you still need help removing the bumper, you can probably find good instructions on Accordv6.com forums or superhonda.com forums, BOth have lots of topics and lots of Do It Yourself boards.
I would definitely bring it in then. Sounds like your immobilizer is malfunctioning somehow... of course it could just be a loose wire or something along those lines... I would imagine if it were a loose wire, it would be getting worse(ie more frequent) but if it is the immobilizer "brain" it would be intermittent like that... strange... I would try to talk the dealer into taking a good look at it. I still think it is the immobilizer system, since that is what shuts off your engine I believe it is either by fuel or spark, not sure. I think it goes through the fuel delivery system(fuel injectors).
Here is a shot in the dark.. try disconnecting your negative terminal on the battery(get the radio code first) for about a minute. It should effectively "reboot" all the systems in the car, and maybe it will help.
thanks, i've bookmarked those, but after locating all the clips and screws on the diagram today, i think i've got it, it seems pretty easy, although i haven't actually taken it off since i haven't got my new headlights yet.
My Accord does the same thing, I was told it was the catalytic converter doing its job. After you drive the car slow for a while carbon deposits start to build up and then when the RPMS get high enough it cleans it out and the rotten egg smell is the fuel/air mixture being just a little off. Could also be from reformulated gasoline as well. It is good to give these cars a good run once in a while, they will run better and last longer if you actually drive them.
Hello! I haven't posted in a long time (about 2 yrs)! I see Auburn63 is still helping all us Honda owners! That sure is nice of him! Anyhow, I have a 2000 Accord LX-V6 with 45000 miles on it. I've had ZERO problems with it until yesterday. Yesterday the check engine light went on and I took it to the dealer to have them pull the code. He said it was a plugged EGR value and Honda has extended the warranty to 80K to cover it. I got the notice about the trans but I sure don't remember getting a notice about the EGR! The dealer said it is something that happens about every 45K and is fixed by cleaning the ports but it isn't something that can be prevented. Well that means the next time this happens I'll be the one to fix it (if possible) and I'd like to find out how, print it out, and put it in my service manual. Now I'm sure you guys have talked about this SOMEPLACE on this board and I started searching for it but haven't found it yet. Can someone PLEASE give me some idea where abouts/time frame this was discussed? Thanks!!!!!
Help! My 02 Accord is approximately 6 months old and I have noticed that the clear coat is bubbling on the hood, the front bumper paint is coarse and faded dull (almost white), there is a sandpaper like rough spot on the trunk lid and one on the right front fender. I noticed these problems at different times and it appears that new ones pop up daily. I don't understand what the problem is, nor how to solve it. I was a life long Toyota owner, this is my first Honda, and I never had this problem with any of my other vehicles. Mechanically the car is great and I love the ride, but I need some resolution on this paint issue. I have the SE model in satin silver metallic.
assuming you bought the car new, problems should be covered by warranty. on the causes, it could be a rare but gross factory slip-up during the painting process; harmful pollutants in the air where you park (dew + acid deposits on car surface = bubbling/peeling/etc.); and the even rarer bad repaint if the car was assembled and shipped from overseas and was damaged on the ship (this happens, unbelievably).
The rotten egg smell is the cat converter. You will only smell it when you accelerate quickly and then come to a stop. Since the smell is coming from the converter, you will notice that you don't smell anything until you come to a stop and then the fumes have a chance to rise into the car. I've noticed the smell when following other vehicles as they accelerate, usually new vehicles.
This is more common than u would think-have posted this before but when buying a honda several years ago was looking at new ones at a dealer's lot-happened to be a sunny day-noticed swirl marks on all the paint on the horizontal surfaces. Pointed this out to the sales person-he finally did acknowledge the swirl marks-acted like he was sucking a lemon-I said what's going on with these cars-all the paint is damaged-he points to a new cell phone tower and told me when they painted it the cars got overspray on them and the paint dept buffed the overspray off using a buffing compound and circular polisher.
Betcha every one of those cars had paint problems earlier and betcha not a one of those customers knew squat about the problem.
...my understanding is that every state has specific rules about disclosure of damage on a new car. Cars do get damaged in transit - things as simple as a scratch from careless loading to falling off the truck.
Dealers have the cars repaired and provided that the repair cost is below the threshold, they don't have to disclose it.
If the clear coat looks like it is full of tiny bubbles, the most probable cause is failure to cure the paint correctly at the factory. I would think that the dealer should have the affected panels re-coated and pass the cost back to Honda.
If the damage looks like it is contained within swirl marks or is associated with "spider web" markings, then the dealer caused the defect by "prepping" the car with that damn mineral oil based junk and buffing. Don't let the dealer prep the paint. Don't let them wash or wax or apply anything. They generally don't know to use 100% cotton towels and they tend to scratch the clear coat surface. When you get a new car, inspect the finish. Then "clay" it and apply your favorite wax or polymer yourself.
Thanks to everyone that replied to my message. Yes my car is new and I garage it so I limit the nasty stuff that can get on it. I contacted the dealer and the Honda Rep will meet with me on 20 Jan 2003. I hope that they will identify the problem and help me resolve it because I really like the car. Besides, I don't want my resale value to plummet because of a bad paint job. I will keep you posted on the results. Does anyone have any thoughts on dealing with the Honda Reps?
Has anyone experienced a rattle or crackle sound in the upper left corner of the windshield when driving on bumpy or uneven pavement? This is my third Accord and honestly I was shocked to have a problem of any kind, with it. My 93 and 98 Accords were perfect. The dealer had it all day and could find nothing wrong, so they have contacted the Honda Tech Line. Just wondering if this is happening in any other new accords? Thanks
I hear a rattle noise in the driver side window while driving even in smooth roads. The car was with the dealer the whole day but the service guy was clueless. I had seen a post a while back reporting a similar problem in a Accord Coupe. Is anyone else having similar problems ?
Had a few things taken care of at the dealer this week. The rattle was fixed and termed "loose gasket"...not sure what that means. My driver's door also sounded like something was rolling around in it, and sure enough, a clip was loose...problem fixed.
The other problem was the mat in the CD storage area below the radio. It was coming unglued....apparently there is a service bulletin about this and a part needed to be ordered...will be in next week.
Other than that...I love the car!!! What an upgrade from an Acura Integra!
I just purchased a '98 Accord LX 5-speed. The only unusual noise I hear is in 1st gear, at low speeds, sometimes just as the clutch engages, and often when I let off the gas and the car jerks as it suddenly slows.
The click sounds like it's coming from the engine area, but I'm too inexperienced with the car to pinpoint it.
Also, if I go over a speed bump slowly in 1st gear, and let off the gas (which jerks the car a little), I'll hear a couple clicks (no clutch engagement going on at that point) as the car slows.
Any clues to what I can look for that might be loose?
My CR-V shows the similar rattle while I have low frequency music running. For my case, it was the power door lock handle. The only way I can fix it is put some tissue behind the handle.
Comments
I installed a cradle and phone mount to rectify that issue and make it hands free as well.
Also, I sometimes feel a bit of 1st-2nd upshift delay in the new Accord's A/T under normal acceleration (whether warm or cold).
I know the accord transmission is under electronic control; but if I did not know better, I would say there was a low-pressure fluid problem in this A/T. What do all the other 4-cyl. Accord trannies out there feel like? I don't recall feeling a perceptable "going into gear" delay, or any noticable upshift delay, when I test-drove a similar Accord model at another dealer.
i've not noticed the symptoms you mention, although it seems the tranny seems to sense when i'm driving aggressively or not. it sometimes holds on to 1st longer and sometimes upshifs right away. i need to log more miles to confirm this.
like my 98-02 gen accord, it likes taking its morning coffee (meaning, warmed up) first before smoothly accepting the "r" or "d."
just to make sure, for longevity's sake, i'd fully warm the engine up before getting it into gear.
Try to remember if you had your cell phone in your hand, etc when these problems happened.
If nothing else, take it in...
The other thing I'd do (based on tblazer's post) is to try using the key by itself for a while, not on a key ring, in case anything on your key ring is causing interference.
auburn?
Anyway, getting to the headlights appeared to be a major job. What I remember, it required removing the front bumper, or the plastic cover on the bumper. Many screws, bolts, and clips. More than I would casually attempt to do.
And, these instructions were written by a young girl. She was doing major wrenching on her Honda. Impressed me.
Do a google search on 'Honda bulletin boards' or something like that. Then read a lot. Happy hunting!
he was told that they put sealant on a leak, he suspects it was just a loose gas cap.
could be other things, but could also be as simple as this one. hope it's nothing more serious.
any suggestions?
any ideas? its going to have to wait another week before going to the dealer.
new cars are a blast!
Alex
i'll use the diagram you gave me to remove the bumper, thanks again.
And yes, you can bet they want to make a sale, but all you have to do is say no. Then you'll be armed with more info. If your failure is emission related, it may still be under federal requirements. Good luck.
If you get the code from Autozone ask the honda guru in this forum for the failure description. He has been very helpful to many in here.
Have you noticed any vibrations with the car especially the steering wheel when stopped at the lights?
Also does the steering pull to the left or right?
How do you feel about the car?
Jason.
Here is a shot in the dark.. try disconnecting your negative terminal on the battery(get the radio code first) for about a minute. It should effectively "reboot" all the systems in the car, and maybe it will help.
Because I drove a 4cl Ex and the steering was perfect. I also drove the V6 and it pulled to the right.
mmm sounds like we have a problem here.
Jason.
Betcha every one of those cars had paint problems earlier and betcha not a one of those customers knew squat about the problem.
Be very vigilant when buying anything.
Dealers have the cars repaired and provided that the repair cost is below the threshold, they don't have to disclose it.
If the damage looks like it is contained within swirl marks or is associated with "spider web" markings, then the dealer caused the defect by "prepping" the car with that damn mineral oil based junk and buffing. Don't let the dealer prep the paint. Don't let them wash or wax or apply anything. They generally don't know to use 100% cotton towels and they tend to scratch the clear coat surface. When you get a new car, inspect the finish. Then "clay" it and apply your favorite wax or polymer yourself.
I had seen a post a while back reporting a similar problem in a Accord Coupe.
Is anyone else having similar problems ?
The rattle was fixed and termed "loose gasket"...not sure what that means. My driver's door also sounded like something was rolling around in it, and sure enough, a clip was loose...problem fixed.
The other problem was the mat in the CD storage area below the radio. It was coming unglued....apparently there is a service bulletin about this and a part needed to be ordered...will be in next week.
Other than that...I love the car!!! What an upgrade from an Acura Integra!
The click sounds like it's coming from the engine area, but I'm too inexperienced with the car to pinpoint it.
Also, if I go over a speed bump slowly in 1st gear, and let off the gas (which jerks the car a little), I'll hear a couple clicks (no clutch engagement going on at that point) as the car slows.
Any clues to what I can look for that might be loose?