oops, look what happens when one doesn't check the warranties before doing stuff, hehe. , thanks i'll bring it to the dealer to get new bulbs, it's the pain to change them out by myself anywayz. there isn't a access panel i can remove ....... hmmmm ....... i wonder if they forgot to make one for my car ..... :O ... haha
Having the same transmission problem that a few others have mentioned.. hard shifting.. jerking movement observed most often after slowing down and then re-accelerating.. It started about a year ago after 50K miles.. now have 60K.
I know Honda has a recall on Accord transmissions for models after 2000.. - Does any body know of any widespread transmission problems with earlier models? - Will Honda pay for it? I dont have extended warranty. I guess I am out of luck?
My regular mechanic said he wouldnt want to mess around with the transmission. He rather I go to the dealer. I havent taken in to the dealer yet.
I just replaced my dunlop a2's with a set of bridgestone turanza-lv's. The new bridgestones are much quieter than the dunlops and the michelins! So far so good. They also handle great.
Have you looked at your ATF fluid? It may help to flush and fill (with Honda ATF only). The drawback is that it may hide a small problem until it fails completely.
My original tranny was replaced because of rough shifting and flare ups between shifts under warranty at 12K miles.
My new tranny has been great. I now have 72K miles on my car. I've changed the ATF with Dextron III at 40K and have had much better shifting since then. I'm ready for another tranny flush. But since hearing how we should use Honda ATF, I guess I'll use the Honda fluid this time around.
I called Honda and found out that the extended warranty for the tranny is only for 2000-01. However 98-99 are considered on a case-by-case basis. This is dumb since they know the defect is the same for the 98-99 models. Honda just doesn't want to automatically incur the extra repair costs!
They also stress that the "good will" should be extended if I used a Honda dealer to service my car. Thank God my tranny is doing great, because I refuse to get raped at my local Honda dealers (see below).
I love my accord. But my local dealers are horrible. Honda America doesn't enforce rules on the their dealers to protect their customers.
For example, a local dealer systematically charges all their customers for diagnostic charges for items covered under warranty. This dealer won't charge for the actual repair under warranty, but they'll charge you a $100 fee for diagnostics even if the item is covered under the Honda 3/36 warranty. When I told Honda America, they said that was wrong. However, Honda America won't do anything about it, because the dealer are independently owned and operated. Two different Honda America reps told me this! What's the point of the franchise agreement if Honda America won't enforce it on their own dealers!
I'll have to think hard before buying another Honda product. Just my opinion. I do still love my Honda though. The worst part about it, Honda America doesn't really care!
I'm more than willing to pay a few bucks more for Honda ATF and any other proprietary fluid Honda requires.
However, when you read the owner's manual, Honda wants you to buy all your fluids with the "Honda" brand. Honda pretty much tries to scare you into it. Luckily, even though the dealer service departments in my area are horrible, the people in the parts department in one dealership are really nice. The parts guys laughed when I asked about the coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. They told me to buy the correct type somewhere else and save my money for the Honda ATF--really nice guys!
The only Honda fluids I use are the ATF and PSF. There are probably some PSF's out there that have the same additive package and lubricity as the Honda PSF and it is probably cheaper. Just bought a bottle of Honda PSF for $2.18 incl tax yesterday. More than a few people have told me using the wrong PSF will cause the power steering seals to fail within a few thousand miles. If you have never removed the power steering rack from a Honda-well it ain't easy. Then buying a "rebuilt" rack from el cheapo auto parts chain may result in another chance to change the rack.
Can't find my ATF receipt from my last purchase but think it was about $3.50 a quart with a change requiring just under 3 quarts. Let's see if you can buy Merkon III for $2-that is a potential savings of $4.50 per ATF change. Now compare that to the price of rebuilding a Honda 4 or OMG 5 speed AT by someone who knows how rebuild the tranny-cost anywhere from 2 to 4k. Not odds I want to try- 1000/1 pay out odds is not a winning idea.
I've read elsewhere that Honda trannies work fundamentally different than most other trannies. This would explain why Honda trannies use a special lubricant. Someone in the forums said they had used Dexron, but added an additive package to make it like the Honda ATF and it worked best--otherwise Dexron will probably lead to problems.
I used Dexron III with 8 oz. of Lubegard HFM (black bottle) in my '96 Accord after flushing through eight drains and refills. I never had any trouble and my tranny shifted smoother (up and down) with that combination than it ever did with the original factory fill fluid. However, if I'd known that I could have gotten Honda's own ATF for around $3.50 per quart, I'd have probably gone that route. Contrast that with my 2003 Sonata (Yeah, I know what forum I'm on...). Hyundai's ATF retails at the dealers for around $6.00 U.S. per quart - at least at those dealers who even bother to stock it. My point is that if you Honda Accord owners can get the peace of mind for maintianing your tranny according to Honda AND protect your powertrain warranty for three or four dollars a quart, you'd be nuts to resort to a hack.
spleck, you're right. Honda ATs are ... wierd. At least the pre-2003 boxes. (I don't have a clue what the layout of the new 5-speed AT is.) Mechanically, they're more akin to an automatically controlled manual box instead of traditional ATs with planetary gear sets and control bands and clutches. (By the way, traditional ATs were based on ideas Henry Ford used with the Model T's box. You only had to clutch a Model T to get under way. Thereafter, gear "changes" were accomplished by pulling and pushing a couple of floor levers to brake and release internal clutch bands acting on planetary gear sets. Henry never patented his design. Bonehead oversight as it later turned out...) When G.M developed the Hydromatic transmission in the late thirties, they essentially added hydraulic control to a box loosely based on Henry's Model T tranny design and hooked everything behind a fluid coupling in lieu of a mechanical foot-operated clutch. Hydromatic trannies were used extensively during World War II in Sherman tanks. (Chrysler's first foray into shift automation in the early fifties DID use a mechanical clutch to get under way, but, once rolling everything was automatic until it was necessary to stop the car.)
In March, 2000, I looked into the question of ATF types for Honda Transmissions. I learned:
American Honda’s literature specifies Honda Premium Formula ATF or Dexron-II ATF for pre-1996 Honda automatic transmissions. For the 1996 and later transmissions, American Honda specifies Honda Premium Formula ATF only.
Realizing that Dexron-II is no longer widely available and that there may be significant differences in Dexron-II and Dexron-III, I contacted three major suppliers of ATF with the following results:
A. ExxonMobil’s lubrication engineer, Jay (800-662-4525, ex-3), was well aware of the Honda specifications and said they do not have an ATF suitable for the 1996-2000 Honda automatic transmissions. (They do produce, of course, a Dexron-III ATF which is suited for most other brands of automobile transmissions.)
Regarding the pre-1996 transmissions, the ExxonMobil engineer concurred with the American Honda information that Dexron-II (or the Honda Brand) should be used. However, ExxonMobil has discontinued production of Dexron-II in favor of Dexron-III so they do not have an ATF for these older transmissions either.
He added that the additives in Dexron-II and Dexron-III are slightly different with respect to seal compatibility. He did not indicate any difference with respect to frictional characteristics.
B. Quaker State, which is now a subsidiary of Pennzoil, apparently is one of the few companies that does produce a Dexron-II ATF as well as the more common Dexron-III. Their Dexron-II is marketed as Quaker State Special Import ATF (Dexron-II).
For the 1996-2000 Honda transmissions, Quaker States’ lubrication engineer Grant Weidler (713-546-8346), recommended the Honda brand ATF or Pennzoil Dexron-III/Mercon ATF.
For the pre-1996 Honda automatic transmissions, Mr. Weidler recommended Honda’s brand ATF or the above-mentioned Quaker State Special Import ATF (Dexron-II).
C. Valvoline’s Tech Service representative, Joey (800-832-6825), stated that for the 1996-2000 Hondas, only Honda’s own brand of ATF is acceptable.
He further remarked that Honda does not recognize Dexron-III as a suitable replacement for Dexron-II and, since Dexron-II is no longer produced in the US, it is therefore necessary to use the Honda brand ATF for the pre-1996 transmissions.
Conclusions - based on the above:
ATF for 1996-2000 Hondas One major oil company recommends its Dexron-III for these transmissions but two other major oil companies, who also produce Dexron-III ATF, suggest using only the Honda brand ATF. Since two of the three agree with the Honda shop manual guideline, I would not attempt the use of Dexron-III in these applications.
ATF for the pre-1996 Hondas All three oil companies acknowledge that Dexron-II, or the Honda brand, should be used. Only one of these companies (Quaker State) currently produces a Dexron II rated ATF. The Honda shop manual agrees that Dexron-II or the Honda brand ATF is acceptable.
patentman1 Man I cant believe that you have not only had a hard time with your dealer but with CR as well,,,yikes. In my area we get tortured if we do not do things by the book and our Honda rep. All areas of the repair including diag are supposed to be free under the 3/36,000. Honda Custurmer Relations(CR) should be able to instruct the dealer of this. Thats just not right..
Fluids, I have seen many power steering racks, brake masters, wheel cylynders and water pumps fail and most of them were due to improper fluid use that the customers had admitted to when ask. Now to me this is foolish since the use of Honda fluids (as often as they need to be changed) is not that much more costly. Some fluids such as the new coolant Honda has, is pre-mixed, last 100,000 miles and will still be clean when it comes out, cost about 12.00 a gallon. 12 bucks for 100,000 miles is not such a bad deal.Brake fluid,power steering fluid get like 2 changes throughout the 100k and those cost under 5.00. ATF is a bit more as compared to the store prices but once again only gets changed 1 time every 30,k in most cases, so an extra 10.00 or so in my mind is worth it, these are 20,000 cars we are talking about not 300.00 lawn mowers...Any how thats just my opinion on that.
I've only used the Honda ATF-Z1 and PSF since my '01 was new and to date I have no leaks and my tranny is shifting like new at 87K. My dealer stocks both: ATF-Z1 $4 and PSF <$2. BTW online ATF-Z1 is less than $3.
For this price, it costs less than $12 to drain/refill trans @30K intervals. Why go with anything else?
I changed my coolant with the Honda long life fluid also @85K and the old stuff still was clear green. Now this is one expensive fluid ($14/gal). I could see going with another brand if you change every 30K miles.
In summary, when others ask, I recommend Honda ATF-Z1 and PSF. Other fluids are not as critical and may be substituted IMHO
I also chose the Turanza LS-H (4cyl=H rated) to replace my Oem MXV4+s and the wet traction and quietness on rough surfaces is very much improved.
I would recomment these tires to anyone with a 98-02 Accord if they are looking to keep the handling they currently have and improve the above two characteristics of their Honda.
I have put about 6K on these and I hope to get longlife from these as well. Only time will tell.
Not to pick nits, but I still have the owner's manual from my totaled '96 Accord. The car had a build date of April 1996, so it was well into the model year and any owner's manual revisions should have been reflected by that time. It specifically allows for the substitution of Dexron II in place of the Genuine Honda ATF. I can only comment on personal experience, not documented data, but the Dexron III I used in that transmission in combination with the Lubegard never showed any evidence of leakage. (SInce I do my motor oil changes every 3,000 miles I'd be in a position (literally!) to observe leakage. Maybe with more time and miles than the subsequent year and nearly 9,000 miles from the date of the ATF changeout until my accident it would've. Virtaully all brands of Dexron III do indicate that specification (Dexron is not a product, but a spec. that G.M. licenses to oil companies.) is backward compatible with Dexron II. There're clearly some inconsistencies in the official printed advice vs. the word-of-mouth statements from oil company representatives with Dexron III vs. Dexron II. I don't pretend to understand why. It ~seems~ to me that the oil companies probably DO make a product that's safe for recent Asian and European ATs that call for proprietary fluids, but they're backpedaling out of fear of litigation if they're named in a class action suit brought by irate consumers who may be denied a warranty claim because the car manufacturer claims they used the wrong ATF. At least that's what ~I~ think is going on. My anecdotal satisfactory experience with Dexron III and Lubegard "black" in combination, notwithstanding, my advice is to go with the genuine fluid the manufacturer recommends. I'm strongly leaning toward the belief that we're being cynically manipulated by the car manufacturers, but, really, what are our options? A three or four thousand dollar transmission rebuild is too high a price to suffer just to save ten or twenty bucks at flush and refill time. I'd also stay away from non-Honda transmission service personnel for those routine flush and refills. I'm not saying they're incompetent, but if they're refilling from a bulk container of "Slippery Stuff ATF, Type B.S.", who knows what's really going in your Honda tranny?
I have noticed several postings regarding a creaking sound in the driver side dash near the window of the 2003 V6 Coupe. I had the same problem, and it turned out to be the same fix that other postings have listed. I informed my service department about the recommendations, and not surprisingly, they ignored me. They first tried to install more insulation, but that did not work. They called the "Tech Line" and were told to check the "mohawk strip clip." When they checked this, they noticed that it was in fact this clip. Whether this is the same as an "A pillar" clip, as mentioned in previous postings, is beyond me. But, I want those of you that have this problem to know that either of these are probably what is causing that annoying sound in your dash board. Based on the notes in my service repair sheet, the "Tech Line" immediately mentioned this clip. Honda IS aware of this problem. Don't let them try to tell you they don't know about it.
As a side note, when I picked up my car and used the windshield wipers, there is now a NEW clicking sound when the wiper goes to the right. Oh joy!
Just wanted to let everyone know I have an '03 Accord EX that has this dreadful sulfar smell. I contacted the dealer and they say its normal. I contacted American Honda and they stated that it was not normal and that they would contact the dealer. The dealer called back and the service manage thought he was going to treat me like a kid. He said it would dissipate between 5k and 10k miles. We called Honda back and now they say its normal and may go away between 10k and 20k miles. I worked at a dealership for 7 years. If a customer complained of this problem then we would replace the converter and problem would be solve.
Regardless my wife has report the problem to the Better Business Bureau and I am reporting it to the North Carolina Arbitration. From what I'm told the sulfar content would cause a failure in emissions testing for this state. Anyone have any input on this?
Started having a noise I thought was an exhaust problem at about 70k. Several places said it was not an exhaust problem. Is much worse now by 83k. Sometimes it will occur at low idle or when backing up when engine is cold. Always hear it between 1600 -2000rpm. Other problem is sometimes at highway speed I can feel\hear a vibration\noise. When this first started I thought it was just rough patches in the road but it has become more frequent also. Funny thing is when the car does this it stops with just the smallest of acceleration or deceleration. One shop told me the noise is motor mount related. Have not had anyone try to diagnose the highway noise yet. Could these problems be related? Both started at about the same time. Suggestions on what to tell the mechanics to check? Only one Honda dealer within 50 miles. Have not taken it to them yet due to past history causing a lack of confidence in their abilities. This car has had all of the regular maintenance and was perfect until 9 months ago. I'm no mechanic and really need help to get my great car back without spending a fortune on guesswork.
Has anyone noticed that there is always a high pitch background noise (although very tiny volume) coming out from speakers all the time when the stereo is on? If I adjust the volume to zero, it is gone. But when the volume is 01 or up, the noise comes back.
I've heard someone says this probably is the amplifier problem. Will the noise gone if I change to another amplifier? Is this normal? Or this is a bad stereo so I need to have it fixed? Everything else seems perfectly fine. Does it worth to have dealer take down the dash board and risk the possible rattling problem later on?
That is a benefit you/we get from the modern emissions control systems we use. Some gasoline has lots of sulfur in it and when it goes thru the cat converter-you get H2S.
This is not a problem-if you think it is-then well good luck-don't think you get anything but giggles out of anyone for this "problem".
Guess you could start a class action lawsuit aimed at the EPA.
The noise is probably coming from either a loose heat shield or more likely a intermidiate pipe. There is a known buzz at 1800 rpms under slight load that comes from the short pipe inbettween the front pipe and the b pipe. The cure is usally new gaskets for the pipe as well as new bolts ,springs and nuts. Your Honda dealer would know of the noise..
Is the creak you're talking about only occur going over bumps, or all the time? In colder weather I've noticed it creaking a bit more often pulling out of driveways etc.
I'm wondering if I should have the dealer check this or will it "settle"?
Thanks to all those who gave good info concerning my post #4266. By the way my Accord is a 1990, so according to the shop manual Dextron II should be ok.
My check engine light never came on, bburton1.
Strangely, my transmission started shifting normally again, after a week of third gear only.
I still plan to replace all the ATF with the method you gave, bburton1. Do all three changes need to be done the same day?
Is there any chance my problem could be electrical, for example a short, or computer related?
What does it cost to replace a transmission computer?
A while back i posted about how my 92 accords head light switch would only turn on the headlights but not the parking lights and interior dash lights. It happened every so often only when real cold and the lights would come on (parking lights, taillights, dash lights) in a minute or so.. but just recently the have stopped comming on. With the lights on (headlights work fine) if i push the part of the switch that rotates on the staulk in towards the staulk then the lights turn on but once i release they go off. It is as if there is a loose connection between the rotating part and the staulk. 2 questions: Is this fixable without having to by an entire assembly (both turn signal and light staulk) and if not, Is it easy to do? I think you may have to take off the steering wheel and remove airbag to take the entire assembly off. oh any idea of cost? sorry 3 questions....thanks for your time.
I would not drive it any more with the current fluid. Drive at least 15 miles between changes to get the atf well mixed. Again-I would change the ATF asap-drive 15 miles, change it again while hot-take care the fluid really gets hot-drive it another 15 miles and change it again.
Check the previous posts on this subject-somebody did a great one-apparently older Honda AT's were better able to tolerate Merkon-still would only use Honda ATF. Tranny repair is way pricey.
"...In colder weather I've noticed it creaking a bit more often pulling out of driveways etc."
spleck, to me this sounds like temperature-related loss of resiliency of the rubber front suspension bushings. Logically the rubber compound will be stiffer when very cold. When the car's weight on jounce and rebound forces the metal pieces that are mounted in and around the cold, stiff bushings to yield, there'll often be a "popping" or "creaking" sound. You didn't indicate where you live, but this winter's been -COLD- in a lot of places... When the weather warms up, the problem should be reduced. A little glycerin rubbed onto the exposed portions of the suspension bushings helps them maintain their resiliency as they age, too. (DON'T use motor oil or grease!)
power steering fluid a little at a time or flush the whole system with new fluid. I have a syringe that allows me to draw down the fluid in the reservoir and replace with fresh fluid.
I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect the return hose and cap the reservoir, then start the engine and use the PSF pump to evacuate the old fluid while replenishing with new fluid. I don't know if the fluid is pumped too rapidly to allow this to work. What do you think?
Never change the PSF-don't think it is hydroscopic (attracts water) and it does not get hot. However you should change your brake fluid whenever you replace pads or every couple of years. When I replace pads, suck out all the fluid in the bf reservoir with a bf dedicated turkey baster, top up with new bf and when push pistons back into calipers, open up the screw type relief valve in the caliper-excess bf squirts out the caliper into oil pan. Important not to push the fluid back into the system as it has been fried while in the caliper and has a nasty dark color. The stuff in the reservoir has water in it. Use the correct Dot 3 fluid-not necessary to use Honda Dot 3 fluid IMHO. My dealer's service dept does not even stock Honda coolant-got some pink looking stuff with home made labels on it-last time I checked this stuff was about a year ago at my dealer.
for lubrication and for seal preservation. I also have noticed this fluid darkens over time, so I do replace the old stuff in the reservoir occasionally.
Hi everybody. Especially on cold starts but not always, shifting from 1st to 2nd consists of a grind sometimes slight, sometimes not. Also, there are occasions as I'm shifting, that it seems to pop out of first. Downshifting into 2nd and 1st is often quite stiff. Warranty work has been done to replace the "synchros" on one, two and three as well as gear number two. Same thing going on...no change. Any ideas? Would appreciate your help.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd on my 98 Civic is stiff when the car is still cold on very cold days. I'd go easy on the gearbox until it warms up. I don't know how well you drive stick, but to go into 1st, you'd have to be going at a very low speed or blip the gas. Having so many synchros replaced so soon may mean you're too harsh on the gears.
Spleck: I live in Seattle and since I bought my car one month ago, the sound was consistent, despite 15 to 20 degree fluctuations in the weather. One thing I did notice was that it did not make the noise when it was raining. It definitely made the noise over speed bumps and generally bumpy roads. It also made the noise when my passenger side tires drove over those bumpy man-holes in the road, even though the noise was in the driver side. I also noticed the noise when I would accelerate harder than usual. I took my car in because the sound was driving me insane.
Sorry, I meant the creak is coming from around the windshield, not from the suspension. Its usually from something that puts a twisting force on the car (uneven driveway, etc). It doesn't happen often, but more frequently while I was out of town farther north... I live south of Atlanta so I'll pay attention to whether it still happens in a warmer area. I'm probably just being spoiled going from an old 91 Taurus where you couldn't hear creaks over the engine to an amazingly quiet Accord.
I should have said, I never change it-but obviously if it gets dark-this suggests the fluid is either breaking down or getting contaminated with something or both and should be changed. Again the risk is having to replace the rack becasue of blown seals-pricey procedure.
The creaking sound in my car also came from the windshield area on the driver's side. Does it sound like it is coming from the VIN plate, close to where the windshield and dashboard meet? If so, it is probably the A-pillar clip or Mohawk trim that is causing the problem. My sound did not come from or have anything to do with the suspension. Sorry if my prior message wasn't clear.
Live in the frozen north-when it is really cold have a few creaks and cracks around the windshield. Once had the most annoying rattling noise high up in the center of the windshield-apparently there is a bit of open space and a piece of ice formed behind an al molding strip-went on for an hour and finally went away-at least that is what I think caused the noise.
My Ipass unit also rattles on occasion. Very infrequently do I get wind noises in the driver/passenger side-the rubber seal strips get folded under on occasion-guess need to put some sil glide or something like that on them.
Thanks jan2. Gee, I feel like I drive well. I don't put much force on the stick when I'm shifting. The technician couldn't really find anything abnormal in the gear box. He changed the parts as a precaution. It does seem to shift better after driving for a while. But I am left wondering if this is a Honda thing? Yes, downshifting to 1st works best if the vehicle is stopped or almost stopped. Thanks for your help.
are very well made IMHO-no problems with them in over 300K. However if you like to "downshift" to use the tranny as a braking device and are shifting into first while the car is moving-you will put more stress on the synchronizer gears and they they will go. Brake pads are way cheaper than trannies and if you continue to "downshift", expect to replace some synchros. Fun has a price.
I have a '03 LX sedan that I LOVE, but I an having an issue with the stereo. On AM talk radio I get a buzz from the front of the dash when voices talk on the radio. Kind of like a bzzz, bzzz when a fly goes near your ear. Not electronic...sounds like something is loose or reerberating. The dealer replaced the speakers but the problem persists.
My 2002 Accord EX-V6 has shown a noticeable improvement in fuel consumption since I got it last July. Most of the summer and fall I got 19-20 mpg city, and 28-30 highway. Now that I have 9500 miles on it, I've been consistently closer to 21 city, and still 29-30 on the highway. Probably some combination of having the engine broken in, and not having to use the A/C.
Now the question: how smart is the "maintenance required" light on my Accord?? Is it triggered solely by mileage or does it have some algorithm that remembers how I've been driving?
It did the routine where it continued to blink for several seconds after startup, beginning around 6100 miles. I got serviced around 6500.
I had planned to follow the 3 month/3750 mile schedule from here, but is there anything to gain or lose by waiting for the blinking MRL to show up again?
Had two of the same generation car as the 2002, and observed that the Maint. Req'd Light must just be mileage-determined because it would do its extended flashing at the 7500 mile point regardless of my type of driving after the last oil change.
2003 Ex V6, with a nice crack froma rock that kicked on the road from another car. Has anyone replaced their windshields during the winter, is it a big deal considering how cold it is? Or should I just wait till summer when it warms up?
DOes not matter-they do it in heated buildings-however u might consider waiting till the DOT trucks stop pouring all that crap on the roads-assume u live in snow country-if not do it when convenient.
How big is the crack and where is it? Some places may be able to repair the crack rather than replace the whole windshield. I've seen some repairs that are perfect. I've also seen some minor cracks that still weren't reparable, but they drilled a pinhole in it that stopped the crack from spreading. Those might be alternatives if you want to wait till it warms up, or the roads aren't covered with junk. Although bburton1 is right, they usually do it inside--THEY sure don't want to work in the cold
Thanks for responding. They just replaced the windshield. But the damn thing is rattling and squeaking around. Maybe it will take some time to dry or cure. On top of that, they put a pretty nice dent on my roof while putting the windshield in. I was pretty upset to say the least when I saw the dent. Any opinions on this from my fellow honda owners or anyone else that has come across this?
I've been hearing that from the factory, some Accords are rattling (especially in the cold) due to the mohawk strip clip/a-pillar clip. If you had your windshield replaced somewhere besides the dealer, they may not have replaced those clips, making them worse.
What is involved in pulling out a dent on the driver's side door, say from someone running in the rain and slipping and smacking into the door, leaving say a knee-sized dent? It appears there may be tiny crease below the dent. (
Is it cheap to have someone simply pull a little dent out? What about those suction cup dent pullers? Do they leave marks on the paint, etc?
My parent's garage door opener fell on the side of their van (caravan) and it was $300 to repairs scratches, dents, and replace the rear door window, so I'm thinking a small dent can't be too much...
Be very wary of any repair job that involves painting-I can not believe the crap jobs I have had done and they charged big money-one year later and the stuff is peeling off like crazy. I would rather look at the dent than take a chance at another RS paint job. Got so mad I bought a Sata touch up gun and painted my van-looks much better than the job the pros did-but I cheated-used catalized paint-fantastic stuff-wear the correct mask though.
It rolled down and creamed my mailbox. Dented the hatch. You can't even tell it was there. Those paintless guys have it down to a science. I recommend giving them a shot.
Comments
I know Honda has a recall on Accord transmissions for models after 2000..
- Does any body know of any widespread transmission problems with earlier models?
- Will Honda pay for it? I dont have extended warranty. I guess I am out of luck?
My regular mechanic said he wouldnt want to mess around with the transmission. He rather I go to the dealer. I havent taken in to the dealer yet.
Have you looked at your ATF fluid? It may help to flush and fill (with Honda ATF only). The drawback is that it may hide a small problem until it fails completely.
My new tranny has been great. I now have 72K miles on my car. I've changed the ATF with Dextron III at 40K and have had much better shifting since then. I'm ready for another tranny flush. But since hearing how we should use Honda ATF, I guess I'll use the Honda fluid this time around.
I called Honda and found out that the extended warranty for the tranny is only for 2000-01. However 98-99 are considered on a case-by-case basis. This is dumb since they know the defect is the same for the 98-99 models. Honda just doesn't want to automatically incur the extra repair costs!
They also stress that the "good will" should be extended if I used a Honda dealer to service my car. Thank God my tranny is doing great, because I refuse to get raped at my local Honda dealers (see below).
I love my accord. But my local dealers are horrible. Honda America doesn't enforce rules on the their dealers to protect their customers.
For example, a local dealer systematically charges all their customers for diagnostic charges for items covered under warranty. This dealer won't charge for the actual repair under warranty, but they'll charge you a $100 fee for diagnostics even if the item is covered under the Honda 3/36 warranty. When I told Honda America, they said that was wrong. However, Honda America won't do anything about it, because the dealer are independently owned and operated. Two different Honda America reps told me this! What's the point of the franchise agreement if Honda America won't enforce it on their own dealers!
I'll have to think hard before buying another Honda product. Just my opinion. I do still love my Honda though. The worst part about it, Honda America doesn't really care!
However, when you read the owner's manual, Honda wants you to buy all your fluids with the "Honda" brand. Honda pretty much tries to scare you into it. Luckily, even though the dealer service departments in my area are horrible, the people in the parts department in one dealership are really nice. The parts guys laughed when I asked about the coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. They told me to buy the correct type somewhere else and save my money for the Honda ATF--really nice guys!
Can't find my ATF receipt from my last purchase but think it was about $3.50 a quart with a change requiring just under 3 quarts. Let's see if you can buy Merkon III for $2-that is a potential savings of $4.50 per ATF change. Now compare that to the price of rebuilding a Honda 4 or OMG 5 speed AT by someone who knows how rebuild the tranny-cost anywhere from 2 to 4k. Not odds I want to try- 1000/1 pay out odds is not a winning idea.
spleck, you're right. Honda ATs are ... wierd. At least the pre-2003 boxes. (I don't have a clue what the layout of the new 5-speed AT is.) Mechanically, they're more akin to an automatically controlled manual box instead of traditional ATs with planetary gear sets and control bands and clutches. (By the way, traditional ATs were based on ideas Henry Ford used with the Model T's box. You only had to clutch a Model T to get under way. Thereafter, gear "changes" were accomplished by pulling and pushing a couple of floor levers to brake and release internal clutch bands acting on planetary gear sets. Henry never patented his design. Bonehead oversight as it later turned out...) When G.M developed the Hydromatic transmission in the late thirties, they essentially added hydraulic control to a box loosely based on Henry's Model T tranny design and hooked everything behind a fluid coupling in lieu of a mechanical foot-operated clutch. Hydromatic trannies were used extensively during World War II in Sherman tanks. (Chrysler's first foray into shift automation in the early fifties DID use a mechanical clutch to get under way, but, once rolling everything was automatic until it was necessary to stop the car.)
American Honda’s literature specifies Honda Premium Formula ATF or Dexron-II ATF for pre-1996 Honda automatic transmissions. For the 1996 and later transmissions, American Honda specifies Honda Premium Formula ATF only.
Realizing that Dexron-II is no longer widely available and that there may be significant differences in Dexron-II and Dexron-III, I contacted three major suppliers of ATF with the following results:
A. ExxonMobil’s lubrication engineer, Jay (800-662-4525, ex-3), was well aware of the Honda specifications and said they do not have an ATF suitable for the 1996-2000 Honda automatic transmissions. (They do produce, of course, a Dexron-III ATF which is suited for most other brands of automobile transmissions.)
Regarding the pre-1996 transmissions, the ExxonMobil engineer concurred with the American Honda information that Dexron-II (or the Honda Brand) should be used. However, ExxonMobil has discontinued production of Dexron-II in favor of Dexron-III so they do not have an ATF for these older transmissions either.
He added that the additives in Dexron-II and Dexron-III are slightly different with respect to seal compatibility. He did not indicate any difference with respect to frictional characteristics.
B. Quaker State, which is now a subsidiary of Pennzoil, apparently is one of the few companies that does produce a Dexron-II ATF as well as the more common Dexron-III. Their Dexron-II is marketed as Quaker State Special Import ATF (Dexron-II).
For the 1996-2000 Honda transmissions, Quaker States’ lubrication engineer Grant Weidler (713-546-8346), recommended the Honda brand ATF or Pennzoil Dexron-III/Mercon ATF.
For the pre-1996 Honda automatic transmissions, Mr. Weidler recommended Honda’s brand ATF or the above-mentioned Quaker State Special Import ATF (Dexron-II).
C. Valvoline’s Tech Service representative, Joey (800-832-6825), stated that for the 1996-2000 Hondas, only Honda’s own brand of ATF is acceptable.
He further remarked that Honda does not recognize Dexron-III as a suitable replacement for Dexron-II and, since Dexron-II is no longer produced in the US, it is therefore necessary to use the Honda brand ATF for the pre-1996 transmissions.
Conclusions - based on the above:
ATF for 1996-2000 Hondas
One major oil company recommends its Dexron-III for these transmissions but two other major oil companies, who also produce Dexron-III ATF, suggest using only the Honda brand ATF. Since two of the three agree with the Honda shop manual guideline, I would not attempt the use of Dexron-III in these applications.
ATF for the pre-1996 Hondas
All three oil companies acknowledge that Dexron-II, or the Honda brand, should be used. Only one of these companies (Quaker State) currently produces a Dexron II rated ATF. The Honda shop manual agrees that Dexron-II or the Honda brand ATF is acceptable.
Man I cant believe that you have not only had a hard time with your dealer but with CR as well,,,yikes. In my area we get tortured if we do not do things by the book and our Honda rep. All areas of the repair including diag are supposed to be free under the 3/36,000. Honda Custurmer Relations(CR) should be able to instruct the dealer of this. Thats just not right..
Fluids,
I have seen many power steering racks, brake masters, wheel cylynders and water pumps fail and most of them were due to improper fluid use that the customers had admitted to when ask. Now to me this is foolish since the use of Honda fluids (as often as they need to be changed) is not that much more costly. Some fluids such as the new coolant Honda has, is pre-mixed, last 100,000 miles and will still be clean when it comes out, cost about 12.00 a gallon. 12 bucks for 100,000 miles is not such a bad deal.Brake fluid,power steering fluid get like 2 changes throughout the 100k and those cost under 5.00. ATF is a bit more as compared to the store prices but once again only gets changed 1 time every 30,k in most cases, so an extra 10.00 or so in my mind is worth it, these are 20,000 cars we are talking about not 300.00 lawn mowers...Any how thats just my opinion on that.
For this price, it costs less than $12 to drain/refill trans @30K intervals. Why go with anything else?
I changed my coolant with the Honda long life fluid also @85K and the old stuff still was clear green. Now this is one expensive fluid ($14/gal). I could see going with another brand if you change every 30K miles.
In summary, when others ask, I recommend Honda ATF-Z1 and PSF. Other fluids are not as critical and may be substituted IMHO
I would recomment these tires to anyone with a 98-02 Accord if they are looking to keep the handling they currently have and improve the above two characteristics of their Honda.
I have put about 6K on these and I hope to get longlife from these as well. Only time will tell.
As a side note, when I picked up my car and used the windshield wipers, there is now a NEW clicking sound when the wiper goes to the right. Oh joy!
Regardless my wife has report the problem to the Better Business Bureau and I am reporting it to the North Carolina Arbitration. From what I'm told the sulfar content would cause a failure in emissions testing for this state. Anyone have any input on this?
Thanks,
Richard
I've heard someone says this probably is the amplifier problem. Will the noise gone if I change to another amplifier? Is this normal? Or this is a bad stereo so I need to have it fixed? Everything else seems perfectly fine. Does it worth to have dealer take down the dash board and risk the possible rattling problem later on?
Thanks for the suggestion!!
Chao
This is not a problem-if you think it is-then well good luck-don't think you get anything but giggles out of anyone for this "problem".
Guess you could start a class action lawsuit aimed at the EPA.
I'm wondering if I should have the dealer check this or will it "settle"?
My check engine light never came on, bburton1.
Strangely, my transmission started shifting normally again, after a week of third gear only.
I still plan to replace all the ATF with the method you gave, bburton1. Do all three changes need to be done the same day?
Is there any chance my problem could be electrical, for example a short, or computer related?
What does it cost to replace a transmission computer?
Check the previous posts on this subject-somebody did a great one-apparently older Honda AT's were better able to tolerate Merkon-still would only use Honda ATF. Tranny repair is way pricey.
spleck, to me this sounds like temperature-related loss of resiliency of the rubber front suspension bushings. Logically the rubber compound will be stiffer when very cold. When the car's weight on jounce and rebound forces the metal pieces that are mounted in and around the cold, stiff bushings to yield, there'll often be a "popping" or "creaking" sound. You didn't indicate where you live, but this winter's been -COLD- in a lot of places... When the weather warms up, the problem should be reduced. A little glycerin rubbed onto the exposed portions of the suspension bushings helps them maintain their resiliency as they age, too. (DON'T use motor oil or grease!)
I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect the return hose and cap the reservoir, then start the engine and use the PSF pump to evacuate the old fluid while replenishing with new fluid. I don't know if the fluid is pumped too rapidly to allow this to work. What do you think?
mike1qaz
My Ipass unit also rattles on occasion. Very infrequently do I get wind noises in the driver/passenger side-the rubber seal strips get folded under on occasion-guess need to put some sil glide or something like that on them.
Now the question: how smart is the "maintenance required" light on my Accord?? Is it triggered solely by mileage or does it have some algorithm that remembers how I've been driving?
It did the routine where it continued to blink for several seconds after startup, beginning around 6100 miles. I got serviced around 6500.
I had planned to follow the 3 month/3750 mile schedule from here, but is there anything to gain or lose by waiting for the blinking MRL to show up again?
The manual transmissions used in Acura RSX reported to have grind and synchronizer problems as reported at ClubRSX.
I get grind during 1 to 2 shifts on my 88 Accord only during first few shifts in cold (below 15 degrees F) mornings if I do not shift slowly.
Is it cheap to have someone simply pull a little dent out? What about those suction cup dent pullers? Do they leave marks on the paint, etc?
My parent's garage door opener fell on the side of their van (caravan) and it was $300 to repairs scratches, dents, and replace the rear door window, so I'm thinking a small dent can't be too much...