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I know Honda has a recall on Accord transmissions for models after 2000..
- Does any body know of any widespread transmission problems with earlier models?
- Will Honda pay for it? I dont have extended warranty. I guess I am out of luck?
My regular mechanic said he wouldnt want to mess around with the transmission. He rather I go to the dealer. I havent taken in to the dealer yet.
Have you looked at your ATF fluid? It may help to flush and fill (with Honda ATF only). The drawback is that it may hide a small problem until it fails completely.
My new tranny has been great. I now have 72K miles on my car. I've changed the ATF with Dextron III at 40K and have had much better shifting since then. I'm ready for another tranny flush. But since hearing how we should use Honda ATF, I guess I'll use the Honda fluid this time around.
I called Honda and found out that the extended warranty for the tranny is only for 2000-01. However 98-99 are considered on a case-by-case basis. This is dumb since they know the defect is the same for the 98-99 models. Honda just doesn't want to automatically incur the extra repair costs!
They also stress that the "good will" should be extended if I used a Honda dealer to service my car. Thank God my tranny is doing great, because I refuse to get raped at my local Honda dealers (see below).
I love my accord. But my local dealers are horrible. Honda America doesn't enforce rules on the their dealers to protect their customers.
For example, a local dealer systematically charges all their customers for diagnostic charges for items covered under warranty. This dealer won't charge for the actual repair under warranty, but they'll charge you a $100 fee for diagnostics even if the item is covered under the Honda 3/36 warranty. When I told Honda America, they said that was wrong. However, Honda America won't do anything about it, because the dealer are independently owned and operated. Two different Honda America reps told me this! What's the point of the franchise agreement if Honda America won't enforce it on their own dealers!
I'll have to think hard before buying another Honda product. Just my opinion. I do still love my Honda though. The worst part about it, Honda America doesn't really care!
However, when you read the owner's manual, Honda wants you to buy all your fluids with the "Honda" brand. Honda pretty much tries to scare you into it. Luckily, even though the dealer service departments in my area are horrible, the people in the parts department in one dealership are really nice. The parts guys laughed when I asked about the coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. They told me to buy the correct type somewhere else and save my money for the Honda ATF--really nice guys!
Can't find my ATF receipt from my last purchase but think it was about $3.50 a quart with a change requiring just under 3 quarts. Let's see if you can buy Merkon III for $2-that is a potential savings of $4.50 per ATF change. Now compare that to the price of rebuilding a Honda 4 or OMG 5 speed AT by someone who knows how rebuild the tranny-cost anywhere from 2 to 4k. Not odds I want to try- 1000/1 pay out odds is not a winning idea.
spleck, you're right. Honda ATs are ... wierd. At least the pre-2003 boxes. (I don't have a clue what the layout of the new 5-speed AT is.) Mechanically, they're more akin to an automatically controlled manual box instead of traditional ATs with planetary gear sets and control bands and clutches. (By the way, traditional ATs were based on ideas Henry Ford used with the Model T's box. You only had to clutch a Model T to get under way. Thereafter, gear "changes" were accomplished by pulling and pushing a couple of floor levers to brake and release internal clutch bands acting on planetary gear sets. Henry never patented his design. Bonehead oversight as it later turned out...) When G.M developed the Hydromatic transmission in the late thirties, they essentially added hydraulic control to a box loosely based on Henry's Model T tranny design and hooked everything behind a fluid coupling in lieu of a mechanical foot-operated clutch. Hydromatic trannies were used extensively during World War II in Sherman tanks. (Chrysler's first foray into shift automation in the early fifties DID use a mechanical clutch to get under way, but, once rolling everything was automatic until it was necessary to stop the car.)
American Honda’s literature specifies Honda Premium Formula ATF or Dexron-II ATF for pre-1996 Honda automatic transmissions. For the 1996 and later transmissions, American Honda specifies Honda Premium Formula ATF only.
Realizing that Dexron-II is no longer widely available and that there may be significant differences in Dexron-II and Dexron-III, I contacted three major suppliers of ATF with the following results:
A. ExxonMobil’s lubrication engineer, Jay (800-662-4525, ex-3), was well aware of the Honda specifications and said they do not have an ATF suitable for the 1996-2000 Honda automatic transmissions. (They do produce, of course, a Dexron-III ATF which is suited for most other brands of automobile transmissions.)
Regarding the pre-1996 transmissions, the ExxonMobil engineer concurred with the American Honda information that Dexron-II (or the Honda Brand) should be used. However, ExxonMobil has discontinued production of Dexron-II in favor of Dexron-III so they do not have an ATF for these older transmissions either.
He added that the additives in Dexron-II and Dexron-III are slightly different with respect to seal compatibility. He did not indicate any difference with respect to frictional characteristics.
B. Quaker State, which is now a subsidiary of Pennzoil, apparently is one of the few companies that does produce a Dexron-II ATF as well as the more common Dexron-III. Their Dexron-II is marketed as Quaker State Special Import ATF (Dexron-II).
For the 1996-2000 Honda transmissions, Quaker States’ lubrication engineer Grant Weidler (713-546-8346), recommended the Honda brand ATF or Pennzoil Dexron-III/Mercon ATF.
For the pre-1996 Honda automatic transmissions, Mr. Weidler recommended Honda’s brand ATF or the above-mentioned Quaker State Special Import ATF (Dexron-II).
C. Valvoline’s Tech Service representative, Joey (800-832-6825), stated that for the 1996-2000 Hondas, only Honda’s own brand of ATF is acceptable.
He further remarked that Honda does not recognize Dexron-III as a suitable replacement for Dexron-II and, since Dexron-II is no longer produced in the US, it is therefore necessary to use the Honda brand ATF for the pre-1996 transmissions.
Conclusions - based on the above:
ATF for 1996-2000 Hondas
One major oil company recommends its Dexron-III for these transmissions but two other major oil companies, who also produce Dexron-III ATF, suggest using only the Honda brand ATF. Since two of the three agree with the Honda shop manual guideline, I would not attempt the use of Dexron-III in these applications.
ATF for the pre-1996 Hondas
All three oil companies acknowledge that Dexron-II, or the Honda brand, should be used. Only one of these companies (Quaker State) currently produces a Dexron II rated ATF. The Honda shop manual agrees that Dexron-II or the Honda brand ATF is acceptable.
Man I cant believe that you have not only had a hard time with your dealer but with CR as well,,,yikes. In my area we get tortured if we do not do things by the book and our Honda rep. All areas of the repair including diag are supposed to be free under the 3/36,000. Honda Custurmer Relations(CR) should be able to instruct the dealer of this. Thats just not right..
Fluids,
I have seen many power steering racks, brake masters, wheel cylynders and water pumps fail and most of them were due to improper fluid use that the customers had admitted to when ask. Now to me this is foolish since the use of Honda fluids (as often as they need to be changed) is not that much more costly. Some fluids such as the new coolant Honda has, is pre-mixed, last 100,000 miles and will still be clean when it comes out, cost about 12.00 a gallon. 12 bucks for 100,000 miles is not such a bad deal.Brake fluid,power steering fluid get like 2 changes throughout the 100k and those cost under 5.00. ATF is a bit more as compared to the store prices but once again only gets changed 1 time every 30,k in most cases, so an extra 10.00 or so in my mind is worth it, these are 20,000 cars we are talking about not 300.00 lawn mowers...Any how thats just my opinion on that.
For this price, it costs less than $12 to drain/refill trans @30K intervals. Why go with anything else?
I changed my coolant with the Honda long life fluid also @85K and the old stuff still was clear green. Now this is one expensive fluid ($14/gal). I could see going with another brand if you change every 30K miles.
In summary, when others ask, I recommend Honda ATF-Z1 and PSF. Other fluids are not as critical and may be substituted IMHO
I would recomment these tires to anyone with a 98-02 Accord if they are looking to keep the handling they currently have and improve the above two characteristics of their Honda.
I have put about 6K on these and I hope to get longlife from these as well. Only time will tell.
As a side note, when I picked up my car and used the windshield wipers, there is now a NEW clicking sound when the wiper goes to the right. Oh joy!
Regardless my wife has report the problem to the Better Business Bureau and I am reporting it to the North Carolina Arbitration. From what I'm told the sulfar content would cause a failure in emissions testing for this state. Anyone have any input on this?
Thanks,
Richard
I've heard someone says this probably is the amplifier problem. Will the noise gone if I change to another amplifier? Is this normal? Or this is a bad stereo so I need to have it fixed? Everything else seems perfectly fine. Does it worth to have dealer take down the dash board and risk the possible rattling problem later on?
Thanks for the suggestion!!
Chao
This is not a problem-if you think it is-then well good luck-don't think you get anything but giggles out of anyone for this "problem".
Guess you could start a class action lawsuit aimed at the EPA.
I'm wondering if I should have the dealer check this or will it "settle"?
My check engine light never came on, bburton1.
Strangely, my transmission started shifting normally again, after a week of third gear only.
I still plan to replace all the ATF with the method you gave, bburton1. Do all three changes need to be done the same day?
Is there any chance my problem could be electrical, for example a short, or computer related?
What does it cost to replace a transmission computer?
Check the previous posts on this subject-somebody did a great one-apparently older Honda AT's were better able to tolerate Merkon-still would only use Honda ATF. Tranny repair is way pricey.
spleck, to me this sounds like temperature-related loss of resiliency of the rubber front suspension bushings. Logically the rubber compound will be stiffer when very cold. When the car's weight on jounce and rebound forces the metal pieces that are mounted in and around the cold, stiff bushings to yield, there'll often be a "popping" or "creaking" sound. You didn't indicate where you live, but this winter's been -COLD- in a lot of places... When the weather warms up, the problem should be reduced. A little glycerin rubbed onto the exposed portions of the suspension bushings helps them maintain their resiliency as they age, too. (DON'T use motor oil or grease!)
I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect the return hose and cap the reservoir, then start the engine and use the PSF pump to evacuate the old fluid while replenishing with new fluid. I don't know if the fluid is pumped too rapidly to allow this to work. What do you think?
mike1qaz
My Ipass unit also rattles on occasion. Very infrequently do I get wind noises in the driver/passenger side-the rubber seal strips get folded under on occasion-guess need to put some sil glide or something like that on them.
Now the question: how smart is the "maintenance required" light on my Accord?? Is it triggered solely by mileage or does it have some algorithm that remembers how I've been driving?
It did the routine where it continued to blink for several seconds after startup, beginning around 6100 miles. I got serviced around 6500.
I had planned to follow the 3 month/3750 mile schedule from here, but is there anything to gain or lose by waiting for the blinking MRL to show up again?
The manual transmissions used in Acura RSX reported to have grind and synchronizer problems as reported at ClubRSX.
I get grind during 1 to 2 shifts on my 88 Accord only during first few shifts in cold (below 15 degrees F) mornings if I do not shift slowly.
Is it cheap to have someone simply pull a little dent out? What about those suction cup dent pullers? Do they leave marks on the paint, etc?
My parent's garage door opener fell on the side of their van (caravan) and it was $300 to repairs scratches, dents, and replace the rear door window, so I'm thinking a small dent can't be too much...