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Getting a J accord without those wonderful Michelin energy tires could be a bear though.
well, it's been there since the day i drove the car off the dealer's lot in sep, 2001, i took the car bak for many many times and they always "found nothing wrong". after multiple attempts they started to ignore me as i stood in the service lane, that made me lose all my hope so i gave up, drove the car home and decided to love it the way it is. and may i remind u that i'm not crazy, my friend has an 02 i4 sedan and his car runs as smooth as silk. oh, btw, my engine/exhaust made a lot more noise as well, noise is vibration, and that just made my car seems so unrefined.
so about 2 months ago i decided i wanna modify my car a little, for the fun of getting new stuff, so i got some aftermarket air intake system and cat-back exhaust, i did a lot of research before i purchased the stuff and i was in the accord performance forums a lot as well. therefore i learned that i should reset my ECU after putting in the intake/exhaust so the computer will learn the difference faster. so i did it.
fast forward, about a week ago the sound of the intake/exhaust just really got to me, it got so annoying i just can't take it anymore, so i decided to go all the way bak to stock. as i exchanged bak to stock i didn't forget to reset the ECU again. and let me tell you, now my car runs just like my friend's 02 sedan, even better, the engine is silky smooth, now i just press the pedal a little and there's plenty of power to accelerate up to speed, and all the excessive noise is gone. stop here, before you tell me that i feel this way because of the difference going from aftermarket intake/exhaust bak to stock, IT'S NOT! i have been driving like this for a few days already, plus i drove my friend's 02 sedan again bak to bak and they drove the same. AND my car doesn't vibrate as much as it used to before, the vibration is still there, but it's much of it is reduced, i no longer feel like i'm forced to have a massage that i don't want.
i still don't know what exactly was the thing that fixed my car, but i believe resetting ECU did plenty of good and it does no harm at all.
maybe auburn63 can give a logical explanation of this miracle? and should i go teach the service ppl at the dealer a lesson? hehe, just kidding.
nonetheless, i suggest everybody reset their ECU once in a while, you might notice something you like! =D
PS:How did you reset the ECU?
I admit, I have a bias because of the success I've had with these cars. But, because of it, I look for "J"s when shopping for used cars also,whether it's Mazdas, Toyotas or Hondas.
Maybe it was just the luck of the draw, but I'm hooked on "J"s.
ALTHOUGH i've never done it that way, i just pull the negative terminal on the battery and wait for about 10-15 mins then put it bak in. but this way you will have to reset all your radio settings and stations (you also need your radio code to get your radio working again). but i'm sure next time i will just pull the fuse, much more convinient.
correct me if i'm wrong auburn63.
Also I had a creek on my passenger side when starting from a standstill on hills. The dealer worked on the car for a week and replaced the front sping/shock and realigned the fender. That cured the problem.
Thanks.
AL.
02 V6 Accord.
I think the point that one poster was trying to make is, Honda has built Accords in the United States for 20 years. And in that time, it has built a reputation for reliability. This would hardly be the case if the U.S.-built Accords were crap.
And for all of those that are ready only to accept a J-VIN car, consider this. A good friend of mine has a J-VIN 2000 Accord EX-L I4. With under 20,000 miles on the car, the whole engine was replaced because of a noise the engine was making and metal shavings found in the engine and oil pan, the sources of which couldn't be found. So obviously, Japanese Accords are not perfect either. And, it rattles and squeaks worse than either my 2002 EX-V6 did or my 2003 EX-L or my wife's 2002 LX do. All of which are U.S.-built Accords.
should i do highway driving? what is the top speed i should do? how many miles should be on it until the engine is "broken in"? please advise. thanks.
That's about it.
I would say it is wrong to generalize that [non-permissible content removed] built Accords/cars have better construction, since I never had any such problems. A relative of mine has a [non-permissible content removed] built Camry (1998), which has its transmission replaced under warranty at around 20k miles, and started leaking oil again at 70k miles. So much for a [non-permissible content removed] built car.
I also own a 2000 Altima built in Tennessee with 56k hard driven miles on it, and till date I have not had to go to the dealer for anything other than oil changes that I get done 3-3.5 k miles. This is the most trouble free car I have ever owned, and I hope to get the same kind of service from my Accord.
a 93 Accord. Friend is having intermittent
starting problems with her Accrod. Suggestions?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
or trying picking the lock.
j/k
the manual is call "understanding your car's safety features" and on page 12 it states that, "If a wheel drops into a deep poth hole, or you strike a hard, raised object such a curb or speed bump, a brief high rate of deceleration may cause the front air bags to deploy." check and see if the dealer gave you one.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
v/r
Fig.
I'm willing to bet that if lvboy1980 makes a little noise, he will get whatever he wants from Honda. This sounds likes signficant lawsuit potential. Its a product liability issue.
lvboy1980, you manual should have a phone number and address for your areas national Honda rep. I'd sent them a certified letter describing the incident.
Airbags can and have killed people. The can do much more than injure.
Thanks,
James
6 hrs later, the service rep called me and said the noise was coming from inside the transmission so they are ordering a new one for me. woo hoo ~~~
i'm not at all nervous about getting a new transmission, in fact, i'm pretty excited, knowing that the annoying noise is gonna be gone plus my car is probably gonna run smoother (it jerks a little in parking lot stop-and-go situations). and the fact that they didn't give me a hard time at all about the new transmission under warranty, car has 37.5k now, hehe.
i don't really care about the risks of getting a new transmission, and if you own my car you probably wouldn't either. since my car wasn't running like a honda should from the beginning. everything was fine during the test drive tho, how lucky i am. haha.
good things have been happening to me lately, maybe i should buy some lottery, lol. =D
Anyone have any idea what has happened? Thanks
~Kurtis
I would like to address some of the complaints I have read in the posts.
First, I do notice some rattles from the sunroof. However, they are minor and only can be heard if my radio is off.
Second, I haven't found the A-pillar to be a big issue. However, I do think that the C-pillar will create some big blind some spots. The A-pillar will be only be an issue if you do not properly adjust your driver seat.
Third, this is my first Honda. I have been driving a 1992 Toyota Camry. In terms of ride, the Camry is definitely smoother over bumps. This Accord is stiff by my standards.
Fourth, handling is great. I feel very little body roll in turns and twists.
The seats are great especially with leather.
I hope this Accord will last as long as my Camry which I still have as a second car.
Cold pressures should be 32 psi or thereabouts.
Having said that, there will be no comparison between the ride on a '92 Camry and a contemporary Accord. Every Honda ever built rides more firmly than every Camry ever made. I thought our '01 Accord EX V6 sedan was right on the margin, when the tires were right, of being too firm. Depended on my mood for the day...
How much business you think the accord is gonna loose to the TSX?
1) there is a noise ( I hesitate to call it a rattle) coming from above the drivers side door. Sounds more like a squeak caused by the something rubbing together. Not always present but worse in the 45-55 degree outside temp range.
2) Similar sound but more rattle like coming from the right back seat area. Its hard to pinpoint becuse it seems never be there when I get a chance to sit back there.
3) Headlights dim noticebly when accelerating. Letting go of the accelerator causes them to brighten again. Doesn't happen when the car is in park and seems worse in the 1500-2500rpm range.
Any ideas?
i don't think i'll waste anymore time with the bodyshop cuz it clearly shows they are not gonna help. i brought it to the detailing shop that the dealer uses as their detailing shop, they told me to bring the car in tomorrow and they'll see if they can make it shine like the rest of the car does, but they also said "it might not work cuz the paint might be too thin."
now i'm all clueless and worried that this huge difference is always gonna be there, does anybody have any suggestions on what i should do?