Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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  • amazonamazon Member Posts: 293
    I have a 93 accord LX aut. What are are the engines/ transmissions from later model Honda/ Acuracars I can drop in with out too much hassle (such as cutting steel)? Would any v6 fit, or the 5 cyl. from the vigor?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    The recomendation for most belts today is 90,000 or 6 years. There is not much need to do it much before that time.I also agree with what Isellhondas has said about the water pump.
  • aquaticaquatic Member Posts: 12
    I own a 1990 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles. On many mornings if the car has sat for a day or two it blows smoke for about 1 block then no smoke for the rest of the day. It runs fine. The smoke I think is oil getting into the pistons. But it is just a guess. I know it is not steam. I check the oil and it seems to need about 1-1.5 quarts a month.
    I figure adding oil is cheap but I am begining to wonder if the end of the cars life is near.

    What is the likley cause and what repair am I looking at? I like to keep the car for another year but I am not sure if the smoke is the the end of the life of the car or fixable problem?
  • dsheddshed Member Posts: 2
    We own a 99 Accord EX w/ the chrome interior door handles. On of them appears to be coming off. Has anyone else had this problem? Do you think we can get it fixed at Honda for free? It appears the handle would have to be replaced..
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    aquatic,
    There is several possibilities for the oil smoke problem, valve seals, oil rings piston slap cold are just a few.The other remote possibility worth checking out would be oil leaking down into the spark plug hole. Pull your plug wires out and check them for oil leaking onto them. If there is then you need to get new gaskets for the valve cover.If it isn't that then you can try having the motor flushed and ran with a cleaner to try and clean the rings. Other than that keep adding oil and driving it until it gets worse.I doubt that it will fail before getting much worse if it is an internal problem..Good luck

    dshed,
    If you are still within the 3- 36,000 warranty then there should be no problem with getting the handle warrantied.Unless of course it has been mis-handled :) > Ok I know that was bad but couldn't help it.Give them a call if you don't have a dealer near by and see what they say..
  • originalbwadoriginalbwad Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem with my 95 civic. The noise is coming from the mechanism that engages the clutch. The bad news is that something binds slightly inside the clutch housing and you can't see exactly where it is. But you can see where the hydraulic unit and the lever that moves the clutch. On my car it is directly across from the back of the radiator fan motor. You can see a rubber boot with a slit in it and a hydraulic mechanism just beside it (denoted by the medal line that feeds into the mechanism). If you pop the boot loose, it is just held by friction, and slide it back you will see a lever. I followed that lever as far as I could into the clutch housing with the grease gun hose and while someone was in the car cycling the clutch pedal in and out, I gave it grease until the noise stopped. Like I said, you can't see exactly where the noise is coming from so it is a hit or miss thing unfortunately. I also worried about getting grease on something that shouldn't be greased but I never had any problems and that was 2 years and 30k ago. Last week I noticed it binding slightly again and tomorrow I am going to grease it again. I hope this is helpful and not confusing.
  • hondalover3hondalover3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, im having a hella of weird time with my newly purchased honda accord 94 lx. When i acclarate i hear a wierd noise that sounds very annoying. It only happens when i start accelarting after i hit like 20 it goes away. My car has currently about 160,000 miles. The timing belt has not been changed, could that be the problem? i thought maybe muffler, but its not. ANYONE please help, thanks, I really need help, Thanks all, PLEASE email responses to me as i dont visit this site very often, Mrgrits316@cs.com, God Bless u all
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If this noise happens around 1800 rpm's under light throttle then it is the short pipe bettween "A" pipe and the catalytic converter.Honda dealers sell what is known as a "buzz kit". This kit comes with the two doughnut gaskets and new nuts , springs and bolts.When you install them you will need to coat the gasket surface with never(anti-) seize.This will help keep the noise away.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    A couple of friends have had this annoying buzz-the heat shields were vibrating-found a cheap/quick way to fix this problem. Get some aluminum clothes line wire-cut off enough to wrap around the buzzing part-twist it tight with a pair of pliers and the buzz is gone. When you replace the muffler or pipes-just cut off the wire. I never put the lower heat shield back on-just do not park over piles of leaves or tall dry grass.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Well yes thats a differant buzz and or rattle but we use hose clamps on the loose shield ones but that wire is just as good. However the noise that I think he is talking about isn't from a loose shield I don't think. It is another common noise from the exhaust.But it is hard to tell which noises people are talking about without hearing it.
  • mack20mack20 Member Posts: 40
    redroadrunner, butch11, thanks for all the maintanace information on the 1994 Accord that I was going to buy. I'm still shopping around, trying to get a good price. However, from reading some of the manintance issues posted here, and talking to some owners, these were very sound cars. I recently saw a 96 Accord for around $800 more with the same mileage. I might go for that.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    There are several things this could be from adjustments of the choke to possible frequency valve problems.The start and stall once thing is not a big problem as long as you can put it into gear and go after that.The reason the older cars stalled was because of all the vacuum hoses that it has to fill.The stalling when put into gear cold could be the frequency valve, one of the thermovalves for the choke pull off or the vacuum advance on the distributor.If it stalls all of the time cold then you should leave it overnight with a tech and let them diag it. Good luck..
  • aquaticaquatic Member Posts: 12
    I pulled the plugs about 2 months ago because of hard start and I found 2 plugs were completly in oil. I had just had an oil change at Pep Boys and I thought the guy accidently pored oil into the spark plug holes. I changed the plugs myself and it has run ok except for the smoke.
  • joe111joe111 Member Posts: 28
    You seem to be the answer to many tough Honda problems...here goes. My father in law has a 84 Accord that has just about totally stopped running. It was running fine with no hint of trouble until it just quit. It then ran fine for a couple days but then quit again. We know it's not the timing belt, and he put a new coil on it and a fuel filter. We checked the float level in the carb, it's OK. We checked all the many hoses, but they seem to be OK. When we get it started it runs very rough like it might be flooding out. Do you have any suggestions?
  • mpdrewmpdrew Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a very clean '94 Accord EX with 73k mi. on it. Love it - BUT - it downshifts poorly to first gear in low speeds, making local driving irritating. Kind of unpredictable -- it's worse sometimes than others. After I purchased it, in private sale, I immediately flushed all fluids, tranny included, and the level is fine. I have
    read elsewhere about problems with this transaxle. What am I facing here? Can anyone help with diagnosis, service bulletins, typical dealer-service response, cost estimates, etc. Many thanks.
  • bjklintonbjklinton Member Posts: 12
    Haven't chatted with you in a while. How's the MONTE? Got a few things would like your opinions on. Will try to be brief as possible.
    BTW, 2000 SE, with 10K.
    1. With cooler mornings on first start up, notice noise, seems passenger side under hood, almost sounds like noise an air compressor, or vacuum pump makes. It is engine related, increases with throttle, stationary or moving, etc. Can be heard easily with radio on. After warm up, noise goes away. (does seem the colder, the louder).
    2. Had any CV or axle problems with this model?
    On dry street, car pointing uphill, turned 90 deg. from STOP, sound or felt like somethin was binding. 2 days later, spun tires on wet street, but going straight this time, same sensation. Neither time was loud, etc, but more thru the steering wheel.
    3. Occasional "stumble" @ idle like sitting in traffic. Kind of like a reverse deal if AC was on. All accessories OFF tho. RPM's will just sometimes drop for a second.
    Got one more small thing, but this post is getting too long (sorry). Will say in regard to above 3 items, cannot sense any decrease in performance / function (yet). Thanks in advance.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    aquatic
    Check and see if it is still leaking. If so then take off the valve cover and replace the o ring gaskets and the valve cover gasket itself and see how it goes with the smoke.

    joe111,
    If once it does run it runs rough then I would take the top of the carb off and try cleaning the bowl and the jets,as well as replacing the needle and seat in the top horn.I say this because it sounds as if there is dirt in the carb causing it to run rough. Also check the vacuum advance on the distributor but it is most likely a dirty carb..Good luck

    bjklinton,
    Monte is still going I forget exactly how much but somewhere around 285 or 286,000.Now as far as yours,is the noise like a electrical whine or is it more like possibly the power steering pump because they get a little noisy cold.If it is more like a whine then check and see if you have a ground strap going from the right side shock tower over towards the motor on the top.Check those and write back. 2..No cv problems but have had a few shocks blow out and some sway bar links come loose.Check the shock for a leak and the sway link for play. 3..No none problems for the stumble except for fuel(mostly winter fuel)related.Try differant brand or if your area uses the winter fuel it may qualify for an updated computer and presure regulator but not for sure on what the qualifications are and what vehicles are affected because we no longer use it.Good luck

    mpdrew,
    The trans is not the smoothest on reaccel from a near stop so what you are saying may be normal. However you may want to check the throttle presure cable and make sure it is adjusted to react at the same time you step on the gas.Just have someone slowly press on the gas(engine off) while you watch the 2 cables at the throttle body.If they move at the same time or the trans slightly later then it is ok.But make sure that if they do move at the same time that the trans cable is not too tight, it should have a little play.
  • kreykrey Member Posts: 41
    I've got a 97 accord, great car, but the power door locks are acting up. Sometimes they just actuate by themselves, and sometimes they don't work well, either by the key insert method or by pushing down on the driver's door lock which is supposed to lock all the other doors as well. Also, the drivers door handle mechanism seems loose. I suspect there's a connection between the two. I'm not sure, but it sounds like it's a vacuum operated system.

    Is opening up the door to take a look a big job or should I just take it over to the mechanic and get my checkbook ready?

    Thanks
  • pqxypqxy Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your feedback on clutch noise
  • millemsmillems Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 1995 Accord LX (auto transmission - 100K). About every 5th start the transmission will not shift out of park. The only way out is to use the "shift-lock release," get it into neutral, and restart. Does anyone know how complicated/serious/expensive a repair that I am looking at? Otherwise, so far so good. Thanks!
  • jjv55jjv55 Member Posts: 20
    I'm going to be purchasing an Accord ('00 or '01), that much is final. How big of a difference is there between the two engines (maintenance, performance, durability, etc)? I've driven the 6 and enjoyed it a lot. Still trying to find time to drive the 4. Any advice? Thanks!
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Sounds like the shift lock interlock release is getting a bit worn-solution-if you have another key that will release it-just leave it in the lock release. Can't be too expensive but you can live with a key that won't fit your ignition but will release your shift lock mechanism-put something over it to hide it if you leave it in-some yahoo kid might look in and think he has found an easy car to steal.
  • frag235frag235 Member Posts: 81
    I have a Y2K accord SE with the auto/4 and I think it has plenty of power for most situations (plus up to 32 mpg!). You should definitely test drive one with the 4-banger, but It'll be up to you whether the extra cost of the 6 is worth it (more power, but less mpg)
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Before this year's [2001 model year] changes, I would have said this was a no-brainer: if you can afford the six, buy it. We had a '98 LX 4 automatic, and as nice as the car was [and trouble-free], we found the noise level, both road and engine noise, a bit much on long trips. So, with the NVH improvements they made for '01 on my mind, I drove both the new LX 4 and the EX V6. The improvements in refinement in the 4 cyl DO make the car more enjoyable at speed, and if the budget had been tighter, I would not have hesitated to choose the 4. We bought the EX V6, however, and I think it is just fantastic - almost like an entirely different make/model compared with the 4cyl. If your budget stretches to get the six, I would recommend that choice - it isn't just about the extra hp - it'a about the extra smoothness, the torque-on-demand, and the extra feeling of substance. [But I would not hesitate to recommend the 4 cyl to anyone who can't or won't spend more than $18k...in my mind it is the best car in this class, period.]
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    If you live/drive in very hilly or mountainous areas-you should consider the 6. If you live in the flat lands as I do and do mostly highway driving-the I4 is fine. On daylight trips across MO, I run I70 at 85-90 mph, over 300 miles from end to end and no problems.
  • copytechcopytech Member Posts: 71
    Sounds like the release fork pivot bolt that is try. You need to lube is asap. If if stays dry, it will create a flat spot and cause erratic release and engaging operation. Use a good quality moly lube. I say this because my 96 civic had this problem and I lubed the pivot bolt and took care of the problem. THEN I saw that there was a tsb for try pivot bolts. Honda can fix this for about a 1/2 hr labor. Use a needle attachment on a grease gun to reach it, though it can be a bit of a pain. I was under there with a mirror, but it worked.
  • gherndongherndon Member Posts: 1
    I have an 89 Honda Accord, and I think I blew the main fuse when attempting to jump start my car (wrong end connected to battery). Anyway, I don't want to kill myself, but I want to do it myself. Can someone offer any advice? I know how to open the fuse box under the hood, but that's about it.
  • Desert_FreakDesert_Freak Member Posts: 3
    My Accord has had a idle glitch for some time.
    The idle would from time to time surge from normal
    idle to between 1500-2000rpm and just bounce back
    and forth. It would also stick sometimes at a
    high
    idle when started or when put into park. Rapping
    the petal used to bring the idle down (even if it
    took several taps sometimes). However, now the
    idle will not drop down below around 1200rpm and
    it
    usually wants to stick up around 1800. If I do
    get it to drop down to around 1200 it does it's
    surging thing.

    Where should I start? I have read reports of
    distributors causing similar problems, but it
    would
    also seem that maybe the carb is also contributing
    to the problem. I assume there is some kind of
    idle air control valve as well that may be the
    cause. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    There apparently has been a recall for faulty balancer shaft seals on some late model accords. I have a 97 made in Japan-anybody know how to tell which year/vin#'s are being recalled. Do not trust the dealer to accurately respond.

    thanks
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    You SHOULD trust your dealer!

    After all, he has the information on the models that were affected!
  • mack20mack20 Member Posts: 40
    Auburn63,

    Thanks for the suggestions on the 86 Accord with the stalling problem in the morning. In the mornings, I just let it warm up for a minute or two. After that no problems. The car runs great after that and I enjoy driving it.

    I'm not going to go to a mechanic just yet. Unless it gets worse.

    Thanks again for the suggestions
  • mack20mack20 Member Posts: 40
    Hi,

    We just welcomed into a family a "new" used 94 Accord with around 60,000miles.

    We bought it from a Honda Dealership. Managed to get them to throw in a timing belt change. Paid slightly extra for them to do the water pump. The seals etc were also changed. I think i got a pretty good deal. Here in Toronto, used accords with low mileage are either very expensive or hard to find.

    One thing. The manual in the car was french! Which I dont speak. I was pretty annoyed, and did not find out till I returned home.
    I phoned the used car manager and asked. As usual I got a little of the runaround. This manager would "do anything for me" last week. However as soon as I paid, he kept me waiting for an hour when I picked up the car, and he gave me the run around for the manual.

    Anyone know where I can get a 94 Accord manual?

    Thanks to butch11 and others around here, I had a lot of information when i talked to the dealer.

    One other thing. The car hasnt been driven very much for the last year. is there anything special I need to know? It needs an oil change. Another mechanic told me to drive it on the highway for a while, then take it for the oil change. That way all the fluids will be circulated.
  • mack20mack20 Member Posts: 40
    Hi just wanted to ask you about some Dealer related questions. I just purchased a used 94 Accord with 60,000 miles.

    What type of servicing is essential to do at the Dealership?

    You mentioned that some Honda fluids like ATF, coolant had extra additives added by Honda. Can I purchase these fluids from the dealership and take them to my local mechanic?

    The techies at the Honda dealership are great. Its just that the dealership is more expensive then my regular mechanic and its not very close.

    The oil changes at the dealership are very competitively priced. Around $22 CANADIAN ($15US)

    also...what kind of maintance would I need for the next few thousand miles? i got the car checked out by a mechanic and he said it was great. Sorry for asking such a basic question...however the freaking manual is in french. The guy at the dealership "misplaced" the english version. I'll keep on bugging them about it. However...you probably know this stuff inside out!!


    Thanks again auburn63!
  • pqxypqxy Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your input on my 96 accord clutch noise problem. I will get it fixed soon either by myself or by the dealer.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    mack20,
    Usally at 60k you would do a major tune up,fluid changes and check the car out. Things such as brakes, ball joints,struts,blah blah blah..But being that your mechanic and the dealer that sold you the car probably went over it, it is probably good to go until 75k.Mostly just make sure you are starting out with all clean fluids(and yes you can buy them at Honda and bring them to your tech).Trans, power steering and ATF are the most important to use Honda. Whenever possible Honda coolant performes the best in the long run as does the brake fluid. As for the oil, any good grade oil that you like is fine.
    As far as what is necesary at a dealer, just the warranty stuff. Check in every now and then to have them run your VIN to check for updates and recalls. Honda techs know Honda's probably better than non but a good tech is a good tech just remember to use Honda parts for the best use out of your car.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Desert_Freak
    What kind of Honda and what year is it. Some differances in the years can cause differant problems.

    Butch11
    97 Accords have a VIN break(why I don't know they use the same design and seal I think)So the best thing to do is have the VIN ran to check for updates and recalls at a dealer. You can call and ask them to do this, stop in, or let me know and you can e-mail it to me and I will check(if you want).I will try and remember to bring home the paper work on it and post.
  • copytechcopytech Member Posts: 71
    Hopefully it's something simple on that clutch noise. Sometimes, noises are hard to diagnose. But they can be the simpliest of things. Glad I could give some advice.
  • jjv55jjv55 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for your opinions everyone! After finally driving the 4 cyl, I must agree with you jrct, it did feel like a different car altogether. The 6 seemed to have a smoother, overall ride than the four, and it just felt like a more complete car. My budget allows for it, and after driving a 4 cyl Stratus for four years, I can't wait to pick it up!
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Every time I drive our '01 EX V6, I look forward to the next time. It's that good. During our first long trip after taking delivery, we stopped for coffee, and when we were ready to pull away, I had a Freudian moment and found myself reaching under the left hand part of the dash to release the parking brake...oops...wrong car...that would be the Mercedes it reminds me of so often [we've had a total of 13 MBs over the last 30+ years]. In fact we turned down the chance to buy a '01 C240 for the Accord...the difference was a flat $10,000, and I couldn't justify it.

    Have fun.
  • Desert_FreakDesert_Freak Member Posts: 3
    I'm sorry my Accord LX is a 1987. I do not believe the engine is the original engine since when I bought it about two years ago, not only did it have 268,000 miles (now 298,000) but all the hoses (including vacuum) and belts looked brand new and I got it at a price I couldn't pass up. It has been a great car with the exception of the idle problem. I am a fairly skilled shade tree mechanic and have replaced the typical tune up components as well as a rear motor mount and the valve cover gasket (leaking again) but I am unfortunately working out of state currently and my wife drives the car, so if I can track down the problem quickly I'll fix it or at least I can take it in with an idea of what the problem is and what it should cost (assuming it's something I shouldn't attempt).

    Thanks again
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Had my wife's 97 Accord in the dealer yesterday for a window problem and asked about the balance shaft seal recall. They went ahead and installed the retainer, even though I had not received the official notification from American Honda. Nooo
    Problem!!! I like dealing with a dealer like this one.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Desert_Freak
    If the idle will not come down then first check that the throttle cable is not too tight.They sometimes get bent at the bracket from pulling them out of the way of the valve cover.Then the next step would be to set all of the idle screws. There are 4 if you have A/C.Start with all backed off. The base idle is adjusted first(passenger side/back adjustment firewall side of carb)600rpm's, then the curb idle(front of carb passenger side)800rpm's, can go as high as 1000.Then electrical load (if auto trans put into gear)front drivers side of carb, same rpm as curb.Then the A/C idle which is on a diaphram on the driver side back of carb. This too is same as curb.
    After all that if it still surges then it may need either a frequency valve or possibly even a computer. If you are bringing it in just ask them to check the throttle cable adjustment and the idle adjustments and tell them your problems.Good luck
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    I brought my '94 in for the recall-- the dealer said had already installed the retainer when they did my water pump/timing belt *before* the recall went out, because they were seeing a high rate of failures! While I tend to believe them, because they've been honest with me in the past, I'd like to verify that as being possibly the case, auburn 63. Could you shed a little light on this? Thanks.
  • jhickey9jhickey9 Member Posts: 1
    I am buying a '97 Accord SE. The only problem I can find on the car is that both the driver's and passenger's side windows have a sticking problem. When raising or lowering the windows it goes very slowly and at times stops and then keeps going. When the window actually stops, there is a clicking noise. Any ideas on what this might be and how much I will have to pay to correct it?
    Jeremy
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Thanks for the suggestion about #3 intake valves being the source of the valve noise-tightened them a bit-noise gone.

    My VIN# for a 97 4 door LX is JHMCD5631V000688
    Was this VIN recalled.


    Mine was built in Japan if that makes a difference-and thanks again for the suggestion on the valves.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Got this info from service dept of dealer purchased vehicle from:

    recall 98-081 emission extension warranty, good from 75-150K, replace plugs, ignition wires, rotor and oil change/filter (?what does oil/filter have to do with emission system)
    recall 98-072 AC wiring harness rerouting
    Recall 00-073 Balance shaft seal recall

    The service guy also told me to try and get a few bucks knocked off the timing belt change since they will have to replace those seals as part of that service.

    Thanks again-may drive the 200 miles back to that dealer for the service.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Lancerfixer,
    We started putting them on in like 1998 sometime so it would depend on when they started.The ones we used to use were aftermarket and shapped differantly but still work.Ask them to see the receipt showing the part if in doubt.

    jhickey9,
    The clicking is a built in relay for when the motor works too hard.Try lubing the window channel and see if it gets better.We use white lithium greese but you can use a spray silicone for the test. If not any better you may need motors.

    Butch11
    I will now have to go and check again because I didn't see any Japan VIN numbers in the 1997's.Which would mean that you shouldn't have showed up on his report for open recalls.I run the VIN also and see what I get. As far as knocking any money off the seal holder only pays the dealer about .6 hours plus the holder so maybe like 40.00 or less.As far as the oil and emissions their thoughts are that if the car is running to rich then the excess fuel is getting into the oil pan(oil) so it needs changed to prevent the blow by and pcv system from raising the emission levels.Good luck
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I received notice from American Honda on both the AC wiring problem and the emissions warranty extension. If you are the original owner of your car you should have also received notification.

    I'm still waiting for the notice on the balance shaft seal, but it has already been taken care of by my dealer.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    Thanks for the info. The timing belt was done a few months ago, and they said they used an aftermarket retainer. Like I said, I'm inclined to believe them, as they've been absolutely great to deal with in the past, but I wanted to confirm. Actually, it's too bad that the sales department is such a bunch of, well, stereotypical Honda salesman, because I think they turn a lot of people away from dealing with a great service department.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    lancerfixer,
    Sounds as if it was done then, most dealers started using this aftermarket one like 2 years ago.Saves you the trip now so thats good..

    Butch11,
    I ran the VIN and as I should have, I got the same result as the other guy. So you do get the recal but I re-checked and your VIN isn't on the paper work so it must be a mis print or something. Either way good news for you because most of us go by the DCS and it says you get it..

    Silvercoupe,
    Just wanted to say hello as I keep seeing your name.Have a good one..
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