Let me clarify my statement: I don't know that the brake noise problem is happening with every new Accord (if it were, we probably would have seen it mentioned here before now).
The dealder said that the problem affected four- and six-cylinder models. It could be limited to the V6 models, since they might require more brake noise insulation, etc. I don't know the extent of the problem.
I called Honda Customer Relations about the matter. A case manager is supposed to call me back within a week, at which point I may have more info.
As to your brake issue, I'm not sure if it's the same thing as mine. I get a very loud grinding noise as soon as I step on the brake. It stops if I take my foot off the brake. That seems a bit different from what you're experiencing.
Dear all, in case of accident with injuries, car detail breakdown or flaw, any other serious problem with your car, please go to NHTSA address http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ and fill complaint form. This way NHTSA will request answer from manufacturer. And makers will fix problems soon, and increase quality of cars. NHTSA have great database with various complains about each car http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm. I found same issue with transmission.
on my 99 Accord sedan. All other window's appear to be operating normally except the drivers side window when closing...very slow. Has anyone taken the door panel off and how is it done. I'm hoping I can lubricate the mechanics of the window. The Honda dealer is a last resort. Any advice is appreciated.
I have the same problem in my 1997 Accord, my driver's side window. It's very slow, I had to take out the door panel to check out. I noticed when i take out the door panel, the window goes up and down much faster, so i think it has something to do with it, you might try loosin up the screws and see if it works, if not check the buttons that control the window because mine burned out because of a shortage in the door. I also had the same problem with the right side window, but i didn't bother checking what a hell is wrong with it untill it stopped working. It tunred out that the cable that helps the motor to bring the window up and down got cut off, but the motor is fine. I went to the dealer and I found out that i have to buy the motor with the cable even though my motor is ok because the cable is connected directly to it. It costs about $200.00.
PS. Thats a common problem in Accords and Integras.
Really depends upon your driving style and where you drive. Only used to get 25K on front pads and about 75K on rear shoes on older accords. My 97 accord's pads were replaced at 113K-still had at least 10K left and the rear shoes are still great at 155K. If I drove in LA-well I doubt I would get over 30K on the pads.
If the alternator drive belt is a bit loose and it slips enough, it will heat up and this will kill an alternator in a hurry. So if you hear the alternator drive belt screeching-tighten or replace it-alternators are costly to replace on the road by the highway gang.
We have a 2003 4 cyl. automatic Accord with 6,000 miles on the clock with no brake noise, (hot or cold). It is a GREAT vehicle. The dealer has already done the second oil and filter change. We will be taking it in for the 7500 mile service soon. We love this car! The engine is very quiet and smooth. It has plenty of "pick-up". ----Greg
I'm writing to see if anyone has encountered a similar issue to mine. When cruising at 50-60 mph I'm getting a slight buzz on the dashboard towards the driver's side. It's small but noticable when the radio is off. Is there any TSB on the web that I can look this up?
I got a few problems with my 92 Honda and hope to have your help..
One issue is in hot weather I could not start the engine. Somebody owning the same year honda accord told me it is a relay part (or something like that) which expands and loses touch under hot temperature. Anybody noticed such problem and have it fixed? How much could it cost?
Also my passenger door handle pad (plastic) was cracked and the handle is loosen up there, but I can still open the door with it. Again any idea how much could it cost? Would that only be fixed at dealers?
Hi,I'm a first time poster here. Glad to find this site.
The dealer here in Tucson told me that Honda has a tech notice out about a broken clip on the balance shaft seal (92 Accord), but that the offer of Honda to do it as warranty work expired in Jan. I had brought my car to the dealer for an oil change in April and he noticed the problem, but he couldn't fix it then, and I needed the car for a long trip. An independant shop charged me $150 to fix it. Now I'm wondering, after the fact, of course, shouldn't Honda have alerted me as a registered owner that the problem exists so that it could be fixed free? I would have taken it in before Jan. if I was aware of the /potential problem/offer. Do you think Honda will re-emburse me for the work done now, as I wasn't notified?
I HAVE A 2003 ACCORD EX V6, OCCASIONALLY WHEN ACCELERATING OR TURNING I FEEL AND HEAR A KNOCKING NOISE IN GAS AND BREAK PEDAL OR SOMEWHERE IN THE FRONT OF THE CAR, DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT THAT COULD BE?? OTHERWISE I LOOOOVVVVEEE THE CAR, I GOT IT FOR INVOICE $23,674.00 AND ADDED ON TRUNK TRAY, WHEEL LOCKS, AND SPLASH GUARDS FOR $239.00, ALSO 52.57 DOC FEE AND I LIVE IN CHICAGO SO THERE IS A 8% TAX I THINK IT WAS A PRETTY GOOD DEAL, I BOUGHT IT AT COMMUNITY HONDA IN ORLAND PARK, ILLINOIS A BURB OUTSIDE OF CHICAGO. OVERALL DID NOT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH NEGOTIATING, I BROUGHT IN A NEWSPAPER ADD FOR ANOTHER DEALER WITH INVOICE PRICE, AND A QUOTE FROM CARQUOTES.COM, THAT QUOTE SHOULD HAVE ALSO HAD A 5% MARK UP BUT THE DEALER WAS NOT FAMILIAR WITH CARQUOTES.COM AND DID NOT KNOW THEY RECOMMEND THAT MARK UP.
bburton: I've never heard of a loose belt causing an alternator to burn up. It should cause a dead battery first.
pbnewbs: TURN OFF THE CAPS, IT'S HARD TO READ! The 'noise' you are hearing and feeling probably is the ABS brake system doing a 'self check'. It only happens when you first drive off after starting the car. This is normal.
I posted my drivers side windshield creaking for a 2003 4cyl LX a while back, but haven't heard from others experiencing a similar problem for a while. Has anybody had any luck finding the root cause yet? The A pillar and mohawk strip were mentioned in the past as well as possible weak body welds. Please post as this creaking is terribly annoying to hear for a new car.
There are 3 interior noises in our 03 EX-L, minor ones but which make the car fall short of perfect. Dealer unsuccessfully diagnosed these noises last visit, but I think I've since figured out 2 of the 3:
1) Driver-side dashboard buzz: Pressing down on the instrument cowl's bottom left corner, the buzz disappears. Seems like a plastic-against-plastic rubbing. Solution is to disassemble cowl and trim parts. 2) Driver-side window creak: Crack window just so, without letting wind in. Creak disappears, indicating that glass' top edge rubs against window channel. Long-term solution is to change window channel with better material; short-term is to apply clear lubricant/chemical. 3) Soft rattle from center compartment below HVAC controls: head-scratcher to this time
Not sure if dealer has TSBs or remedies todate, but honestly most of the time ignoring the noises is preferable to visiting the dealer only to hear "it's the car's aerodynamics creating the window noise" and statements of that nature.
I'll still visit the dealer sometime soon and find out, but if anyone has developments to share in these areas, the news will be much appreciated.
Have you already done 2 oil and filter changes in 6000Miles? And you also mention that you are going in for the 7500 mile setive soon, that would make it 3 in the first 7.5k miles. And I was thinking I was conservative for doing 2 in 9k miles.
Your first problem is probably with the main relay under the dash which powers the fuel pump at start up. I don't know the exact location but I know you just unplug the old one and put the new one in. I am sure if you surf the web someone has probably put directins up on how to do it. Your second problem is very easy to fix. I had to replace both front inner door handles on my 93 Accord last year. You can buy the handle at a honda dealer for about $20-$30. I don't know how much a main relay is but I think it is under $50. If you don't have a dealer near by go to the following website: www.ahmotor.com This is a honda dealer that sells parts online. The prices are usually a little bit cheaper than regular dealer prices. They could probably send you directions on how to change the parts too. Good luck.
Dizzy, Have same problem . In to dealer twice but no luck. We have a lx four cylinder "J" car produced in Sept of 2002. No other problems.Especially like engine and auto trans. Gas mileage has been over 30mpg . Atlantaberry, Your #2 creak. I had this. Applied a little silocone lube on a Q-tip, ran it around the track window slides in and now noise is gone.
FYI on the window creak/rattle....I had the same problem - all the way up, it ticks/rattles, but lower it just a smidge, and it goes away.
They tried the lube, etc. but the real tick is that it's the wiring to the power mirror (inside the door) that is making the rattle. They opened it up, re-insulated it, and it went away.
I know it sounds strange, but it's how the sounds travelled up the glass.
...who'd have expected that to be the cause ? Come to think of it, the whole door panel moves a bit as the glass travels, so that might explain it. Thanks...
Concerning the issue below does it happen around 50-60 mph? Can you go into more details on the fix. I'd rather fix it myself than have the dealer disassemble my interior.
1) Driver-side dashboard buzz: Pressing down on the instrument cowl's bottom left corner, the buzz disappears. Seems like a plastic-against-plastic rubbing. Solution is to disassemble cowl and trim parts.
As for the rattle from the center compartment below HVAC controls the dealer is aware of the issue. The mechanical assembly doesn't latch tightly. They will have a fix soon. My dealer offered to replace the compartment on mine with one with the new latch.
If your problem is the same as ours, there's been a lot posted on this--including vehicle replacement. Go back and look at the posts by gotribe (me) and jonesok1 for some background.
Yes, that's about the same speed, although sometimes it's as low as 40 mph. The part to press when noisy is the ledge of the cowl right in front of the tach. Maybe you can reach this area through the bottom area of the dash to avoid removing the instrument cowl itself.
On the center compartment panel - thanks for the tip.
Benny, Do you have a "J" production accord for the dashboard buzz issue? Did you disassemble the instrument cluster to correct or had the dealer do it? So the culprit may be something underneath the dashboard huh.
If the chip did not spread by the time you read this or if you repair it before it gets to 5 inches or or so it can be filled by any winshield installer that advertises crack repair.Look in the yellow pages. Cost depends on size usually starts at 50.00. Let him look at it first, get an estimate, try to see some of his work you may not be satisfied with how these type of repairs look.
Oil is the "life blood" of an engine. Look at the sludge problems that some Toyota vehicles are experiencing. An oil & filter change costs $20.00 + dollars. An engine has a much higher price tag. This vehicle has a 7 year 100,000 mile extended warranty, so as such, we plan to run it for at least that period of time. We keep all of our service records at the one dealer, so if something should occur, there will be no question that the proper maintenance has been performed, and we will not have a problem with the warranty. Should we "blow an engine", it is their oil and their filter in that engine. At that point in time, I do not want to hear any excuses from the dealer or Honda. We try to keep our life---- "stupid / simple". (underline "stupid") I can remember when oil was drained every 2,000 miles. I guess that makes me "old"! ----Just my opinion. -----Greg
Talk to your insurance agent, that's what he gets paid to do from your checks. I don't understand why you wouldn't want to let the insurance you pay for cover the cost of a comprehensive damage claim. It's not something caused by careless driving; ask your agent... If it's not in the line of sight and can be drilled and filled with the silicon, it's relatively cheap for insurance company compared to a windshield. They have agreements for lower prices than retail customer gets--just like hospitals and health insurance companies.
My insurance will pay full cost of having the chip drilled and filled and still replace windshield later if it should spread further... I had that done on a 93 in 95. Didn't want them messing with the seals and possible problems with replacement job. It worked wonderfully. Have new chip on 98 car. Will have State Farm do same. It's near edge so I'm concerned it may slowly crack further, otherwise I'd just leave it alone. The repair people come to your home or job location.
Talk to your insurance agent, that's what he gets paid to do from your checks. I don't understand why you wouldn't want to let the insurance you pay for cover the cost of a comprehensive damage claim. It's not something caused by careless driving; ask your agent... If it's not in the line of sight and can be drilled and filled with the silicon, it's relatively cheap for insurance company compared to a windshield. They have agreements for lower prices than retail customer gets--just like hospitals and health insurance companies.
My insurance will pay full cost of having the chip drilled and filled and still replace windshield later if it should spread further... I had that done on a 93 in 95. Didn't want them messing with the seals and possible problems with replacement job. It worked wonderfully. Have new chip on 98 car. Will have State Farm do same. It's near edge so I'm concerned it may slowly crack further, otherwise I'd just leave it alone. The repair people come to your home or job location.
Yes, our 03 EX-L is a "J" car. Actually, the problem hasn't been fixed but I'm pretty certain about the cause. Like you, I want to be sure the dealer doesn't create new noises/damage in attempting to fix it. A simple way to confirm the fix (sorry, haven't done it myself) would be to squeeze a thin credit card-like shim in the crack between the instrument plexiglass and the cowl sill, directly in front of the tachometer.
I've read a few post about a popping noise upon start acceleration and stopping. I've also noticed the same noise in my 03 Accord. Has anyone had any luck having the problem resolved by honda service?
I would very much welcome any opinion on this subject.
I posted message # 4976 on March 24th regarding a mysterious battery drain on a brand new 2003 Honda Accord Ex with Navigation. Shortly thereafter, I took my car in to the service center of the dealership in which I bought my car.
They told me they could not identify any issues regarding the battery drain but gave me a brand new battery. About 2 weeks later after leaving the car alone for about a week, the battery went dead and so I got a jump to start the car. Another 4 days later, I went to start the car to avoid another battery jump for the coming weekend. The car was dead and I got a jump 2 days later and made another appointment to service the car.
I took the car back to the Service Center this past Tuesday morning and informed them of the problem and the history of the dead battery. By the end of that working day, I received a call from the Service center and they told me they could not identify a problem. I stated that there was obviously a problem with the car and told them that I needed them to identify the problem and they could hold on to the car as I do not use it on weekdays at all and was not in a rush to get it back as fixing the problem was more important. The next day, I received a voicemail that they did find the battery dead. I've received a message on Thursday that they still could not identify the caise and have not heard back on Friday after I left a message for the Service rep.
The car was purchased in mid-January and I've only put about 1000 miles on it. There was already 170 miles on it from transporting it from another dealership.
Obviously, I am not happy about this problem since I bought a new car to avoid this.
Any opinions on this issue would be well appreciated. Thank you.
I went the route of fixing a chip caused by a stone thrown by a dump truck. Six to seven months later the windshield cracked and had to be replaced in very cold weather. No big deal The insurance company sayI have full glass coverage and it is done.
I've got a 99 accord V6 95 K now. Problem only occurs when the weather is warm/hot, after driving for 30 min or more, then letting the car sit for 30 min, when you try to start the car, it won't start. I turn the key and the engine cranks but everything shuts off immediately. Or after starting, it will run rough ( low idle) for a few seconds then quit, or while it is running rough I give it throttle and it quits immediately. At times right after starting I give it heavy throttle a few times, the idle will pick up back to normal and the car will run fine. But normally it takes numerous cranks ( about 8 -10) to get it started. But if I let the car sit for 1 hour after driving and then go to start it, it's fine. This only happens in hot/warm weather, it does not happen in cold weather.I've changed the main relay so this is not the problem. Honda dealerships don't know what the problem is. There are no codes.
I have two very minor problems and would like some input. 1) turn off key, leave doors open but alarm arms itself anyway after few minutes. Shouldn't happen, right?? 2) Upon going over even small bumps, a sound comes from above sun visor that sounds like someone is crinkling a candy bar wrapper. Accord LX, six weeks old and I love the car. Goodbye Chevys forever. PS- had doubts about buying a four cyllender, but it is great.
Need help!!!!! Do u guys have this type of problem? I bought my 2003 EX v6 last week...it seems like it won't go straight.....sometimes pull to right/left.....any comments.......thanks
Hey tim_hooligan, hmurphy, etc. I think I'm having similar problems. My brake noise is very quite, but high pitched. What interested me was the post about the brakes maybe sticking too. I think that's been happening with me. I've noticed that when driving, and especially when accelerating, my car has been feeling like it's getting allot more resistance, and I'm feeling allot of vibration in the gas pedal. The brakes not fully releasing is my only guess... especially when it seems all I get is 22 mpg in my V6. Also, I haven't felt like the "brake assist" has been kicking in lately. Instead my brakes just feel a little mushy, which they didn't when it was brand new. Then I could really notice the brake assist. Now, with 5500 miles I don't and the car seems to be hitting drag and passing that along though the gas pedal. Any thoughts?
I too have that clunking noise when I first get moving after the car has sat. I'm assuming it's nothing really and until I hear something about it being sign of a problem I'm not sure what a dealer would really do.
So again, please respond with thoughts about the symptoms I mentioned... drag, vibration in the pedal, poor gas milage. Am I right that it sounds like something the dealer should fix. Also, I'd feel that if it's something like this they should also give me new pads, etc., as I should have to pay to replace these pads next time as they aged quickly due to this. Thanks!
yeah, I was noticing that my car pulls left or right often. Is it a car problem that can be fixed? It's just odd that it seems so inclined to pull to either side, and a bit often at that.
What do you mean sticky brakes? That is my feeling when I take off after a full stop. Don't know how to describe the noise, but when I release the brake pedal, it comes. Not every time though.
My 03EX-V6 Sedan rides rough. This is a great car in everyway except the ride quality. I feel (and clearly hear) every bump in the road. I'm wondering if its partially the Michelin tires. This is my third Accord and none have ridden this way. Has anyone changed the tires or made any other change with any noticeable difference in the ride quality? - or am I stuck with a $24000 go-kart?
The only problem I've had is with the initial grinding noise after the car sits for a bit. The noise is like pieces of sandpaper rubbing together, but much louder. I do have the one initial clunk as well, but I think that's the ABS doing its thing (whatever its thing is).
I called Honda Customer Relations and have a case manager who is working with Honda and my dealer to resolve the situation, as it seems to require a fix from the manufacturer.
You might want to check with your dealer and then try Honda if the dealer can't help.
The tire pressure was set from the dealer 2 lbs too high. I adjusted and it made no difference. I have tried pressures from 26-34 with no noticeable difference. I say go-kart because it feels like it has no suspension at all at times.
I would very much welcome any opinion on this subject.
I posted message # 4976 on March 24th regarding a mysterious battery drain on a brand new 2003 Honda Accord Ex with Navigation. Shortly thereafter, I took my car in to the service center of the dealership in which I bought my car.
They told me they could not identify any issues regarding the battery drain but gave me a brand new battery. About 2 weeks later after leaving the car alone for about a week, the battery went dead and so I got a jump to start the car. Another 4 days later, I went to start the car to avoid another battery jump for the coming weekend. The car was dead and I got a jump 2 days later and made another appointment to service the car.
I took the car back to the Service Center this past Tuesday morning and informed them of the problem and the history of the dead battery. By the end of that working day, I received a call from the Service center and they told me they could not identify a problem. I stated that there was obviously a problem with the car and told them that I needed them to identify the problem and they could hold on to the car as I do not use it on weekdays at all and was not in a rush to get it back as fixing the problem was more important. The next day, I received a voicemail that they did find the battery dead. I've received a message on Thursday that they still could not identify the caise and have not heard back on Friday after I left a message for the Service rep.
The car was purchased in mid-January and I've only put about 1000 miles on it. There was already 170 miles on it from transporting it from another dealership.
Obviously, I am not happy about this problem since I bought a new car to avoid this.
Any opinions on this issue would be well appreciated. Thank you.
There's obviously a short circuit in your car, and the risk of fire, among others, would be a serious concern.
First-time problems in a new model such as your case are probably the longest to diagnose because there's no historical reference.
That said, on the principle that 1) one shouldn't be deprived of ownership privileges on a car that's been purchased (i.e., extended use of a loaner deprives one of these privileges), and that 2) the problem has safety implications, it's warranted IMO to demand a deadline for satisfaction.
I'd review the lemon law closely (better if you have access to legal counsel) to see how your case qualifies.
A 3rd party electrical specialist will certainly identify and fix the cause of the problem, but Honda rightfully should get involved with this individual and not its customers, especially since your car is under manufacturer's warranty.
I also have an LX with a noise originating from drivers side windshield area. I haven't figured it out yet. Dealer has told me that it's normal body flex which is not true. I haven't contacted Honda yet, but will pretty soon. I'll post updates periodically, please do the same as we can all work together to get resolution
2003 LX-6: There have been 2 problems, static on the FM radio which is still unresolved, and outside noise penetration on the driver's side.
I was told that there were 2[?] parts that had to be replaced in my driver's side door assembly and one in the driver's side rear window to end the noise.
When the parts are in and I have it done, I'll let you know if the noise stops.
[... and if anyone has a reolution to the FM static problem on the 2003 LX-6, I'd like to hear about it.]
I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX, 4 door with 82K miles. At 60K miles (about) a yr. ago my Drivers Side Front Door started acting up. (funny noise "chiiing"), would only lock unless manually or by key. Then shortly after, the noise spread to other doors (the would lock, or unlock whenever they felt like it when the power lock was activated.. off-course still making that chiiiiinnnggg noise/ recycling??)... To cut the whole story short... Honda dealer told me the door lock actuator was messed up and replaced the driver side door lock actuator, only to find out after he did that I had 2 other bad actuators. (Right Front and Rear Left). Got a steep quote $$$$ to replace both, labor included at that dealership and another nearby. Decided not to fix then.
I recently decided to go ahead and fix them myself but need assistance. I'm looking to purchase the 2 Honda used Actuators (probably advisable to get all 4 ????? - any suggestions) from a Junk yard or possibly buy on-line all 4. QUESTION IS: which (after market) Actuators are compatible with my 1997 Honda Accord EX.
THE BIG QUESTION: How do you remove the Door Lock Actuator itself from the door. I did manage to successfully pry open the door panel and remove the nylon paper off the door, unhooked the wiring but can't seem to figure out how to remove the Actuator. ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, or referrals to web sites with manuals, pics etc on taking the actuator out.
=> Any suggestions on where I can get a good deal on Honda actuators will be greatly appreciated!!
Comments
because I noticed after a full stop and releasing the brake to take off, I can hear a noise also. Don't know if that noise is the one you hear.
The dealder said that the problem affected four- and six-cylinder models. It could be limited to the V6 models, since they might require more brake noise insulation, etc. I don't know the extent of the problem.
I called Honda Customer Relations about the matter. A case manager is supposed to call me back within a week, at which point I may have more info.
As to your brake issue, I'm not sure if it's the same thing as mine. I get a very loud grinding noise as soon as I step on the brake. It stops if I take my foot off the brake. That seems a bit different from what you're experiencing.
NHTSA have great database with various complains about each car http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm.
I found same issue with transmission.
PS. Thats a common problem in Accords and Integras.
If the alternator drive belt is a bit loose and it slips enough, it will heat up and this will kill an alternator in a hurry. So if you hear the alternator drive belt screeching-tighten or replace it-alternators are costly to replace on the road by the highway gang.
One issue is in hot weather I could not start the engine. Somebody owning the same year honda accord told me it is a relay part (or something like that) which expands and loses touch under hot temperature. Anybody noticed such problem and have it fixed? How much could it cost?
Also my passenger door handle pad (plastic) was cracked and the handle is loosen up there, but I can still open the door with it. Again any idea how much could it cost? Would that only be fixed at dealers?
Thanks a lot!!
The dealer here in Tucson told me that Honda has a tech notice out about a broken clip on the balance shaft seal (92 Accord), but that the offer of Honda to do it as warranty work expired in Jan. I had brought my car to the dealer for an oil change in April and he noticed the problem, but he couldn't fix it then, and I needed the car for a long trip. An independant shop charged me $150 to fix it.
Now I'm wondering, after the fact, of course, shouldn't Honda have alerted me as a registered owner that the problem exists so that it could be fixed free? I would have taken it in before Jan. if I was aware of the /potential problem/offer. Do you think Honda will re-emburse me for the work done now, as I wasn't notified?
Thanks.
Melech
pbnewbs: TURN OFF THE CAPS, IT'S HARD TO READ!
The 'noise' you are hearing and feeling probably is the ABS brake system doing a 'self check'. It only happens when you first drive off after starting the car. This is normal.
1) Driver-side dashboard buzz: Pressing down on the instrument cowl's bottom left corner, the buzz disappears. Seems like a plastic-against-plastic rubbing. Solution is to disassemble cowl and trim parts.
2) Driver-side window creak: Crack window just so, without letting wind in. Creak disappears, indicating that glass' top edge rubs against window channel. Long-term solution is to change window channel with better material; short-term is to apply clear lubricant/chemical.
3) Soft rattle from center compartment below HVAC controls: head-scratcher to this time
Not sure if dealer has TSBs or remedies todate, but honestly most of the time ignoring the noises is preferable to visiting the dealer only to hear "it's the car's aerodynamics creating the window noise" and statements of that nature.
I'll still visit the dealer sometime soon and find out, but if anyone has developments to share in these areas, the news will be much appreciated.
www.ahmotor.com
This is a honda dealer that sells parts online. The prices are usually a little bit cheaper than regular dealer prices. They could probably send you directions on how to change the parts too. Good luck.
shows the location for the relay, if it is the problem.
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
is the entry page for the troubleshooting and diagnosis...
Hope this helps.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Atlantaberry, Your #2 creak. I had this. Applied a little silocone lube on a Q-tip, ran it around the track window slides in and now noise is gone.
They tried the lube, etc. but the real tick is that it's the wiring to the power mirror (inside the door) that is making the rattle. They opened it up, re-insulated it, and it went away.
I know it sounds strange, but it's how the sounds travelled up the glass.
1) Driver-side dashboard buzz: Pressing down on the instrument cowl's bottom left corner, the buzz disappears. Seems like a plastic-against-plastic rubbing. Solution is to disassemble cowl and trim parts.
As for the rattle from the center compartment below HVAC controls the dealer is aware of the issue. The mechanical assembly doesn't latch tightly. They will have a fix soon. My dealer offered to replace the compartment on mine with one with the new latch.
Hope this helps.
On the center compartment panel - thanks for the tip.
If it's not in the line of sight and can be drilled and filled with the silicon, it's relatively cheap for insurance company compared to a windshield. They have agreements for lower prices than retail customer gets--just like hospitals and health insurance companies.
My insurance will pay full cost of having the chip drilled and filled and still replace windshield later if it should spread further... I had that done on a 93 in 95. Didn't want them messing with the seals and possible problems with replacement job. It worked wonderfully. Have new chip on 98 car. Will have State Farm do same. It's near edge so I'm concerned it may slowly crack further, otherwise I'd just leave it alone. The repair people come to your home or job location.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If it's not in the line of sight and can be drilled and filled with the silicon, it's relatively cheap for insurance company compared to a windshield. They have agreements for lower prices than retail customer gets--just like hospitals and health insurance companies.
My insurance will pay full cost of having the chip drilled and filled and still replace windshield later if it should spread further... I had that done on a 93 in 95. Didn't want them messing with the seals and possible problems with replacement job. It worked wonderfully. Have new chip on 98 car. Will have State Farm do same. It's near edge so I'm concerned it may slowly crack further, otherwise I'd just leave it alone. The repair people come to your home or job location.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I've read a few post about a popping noise upon start acceleration and stopping. I've also noticed the same noise in my 03 Accord. Has anyone had any luck having the problem resolved by honda service?
I posted message # 4976 on March 24th regarding a mysterious battery drain on a brand new 2003 Honda Accord Ex with Navigation. Shortly thereafter, I took my car in to the service center of the dealership in which I bought my car.
They told me they could not identify any issues regarding the battery drain but gave me a brand new battery. About 2 weeks later after leaving the car alone for about a week, the battery went dead and so I got a jump to start the car. Another 4 days later, I went to start the car to avoid another battery jump for the coming weekend. The car was dead and I got a jump 2 days later and made another appointment to service the car.
I took the car back to the Service Center this past Tuesday morning and informed them of the problem and the history of the dead battery. By the end of that working day, I received a call from the Service center and they told me they could not identify a problem. I stated that there was obviously a problem with the car and told them that I needed them to identify the problem and they could hold on to the car as I do not use it on weekdays at all and was not in a rush to get it back as fixing the problem was more important. The next day, I received a voicemail that they did find the battery dead. I've received a message on Thursday that they still could not identify the caise and have not heard back on Friday after I left a message for the Service rep.
The car was purchased in mid-January and I've only put about 1000 miles on it. There was already 170 miles on it from transporting it from another dealership.
Obviously, I am not happy about this problem since I bought a new car to avoid this.
Any opinions on this issue would be well appreciated. Thank you.
I too have that clunking noise when I first get moving after the car has sat. I'm assuming it's nothing really and until I hear something about it being sign of a problem I'm not sure what a dealer would really do.
So again, please respond with thoughts about the symptoms I mentioned... drag, vibration in the pedal, poor gas milage. Am I right that it sounds like something the dealer should fix. Also, I'd feel that if it's something like this they should also give me new pads, etc., as I should have to pay to replace these pads next time as they aged quickly due to this. Thanks!
What do you mean sticky brakes? That is my feeling when I take off after a full stop. Don't know how to describe the noise, but when I release the brake pedal, it comes. Not every time though.
Have you checked your tire pressure against the numbers specified on the door post?
I called Honda Customer Relations and have a case manager who is working with Honda and my dealer to resolve the situation, as it seems to require a fix from the manufacturer.
You might want to check with your dealer and then try Honda if the dealer can't help.
I posted message # 4976 on March 24th regarding a mysterious battery drain on a brand new 2003 Honda Accord Ex with Navigation. Shortly thereafter, I took my car in to the service center of the dealership in which I bought my car.
They told me they could not identify any issues regarding the battery drain but gave me a brand new battery. About 2 weeks later after leaving the car alone for about a week, the battery went dead and so I got a jump to start the car. Another 4 days later, I went to start the car to avoid another battery jump for the coming weekend. The car was dead and I got a jump 2 days later and made another appointment to service the car.
I took the car back to the Service Center this past Tuesday morning and informed them of the problem and the history of the dead battery. By the end of that working day, I received a call from the Service center and they told me they could not identify a problem. I stated that there was obviously a problem with the car and told them that I needed them to identify the problem and they could hold on to the car as I do not use it on weekdays at all and was not in a rush to get it back as fixing the problem was more important. The next day, I received a voicemail that they did find the battery dead. I've received a message on Thursday that they still could not identify the caise and have not heard back on Friday after I left a message for the Service rep.
The car was purchased in mid-January and I've only put about 1000 miles on it. There was already 170 miles on it from transporting it from another dealership.
Obviously, I am not happy about this problem since I bought a new car to avoid this.
Any opinions on this issue would be well appreciated. Thank you.
First-time problems in a new model such as your case are probably the longest to diagnose because there's no historical reference.
That said, on the principle that 1) one shouldn't be deprived of ownership privileges on a car that's been purchased (i.e., extended use of a loaner deprives one of these privileges), and that 2) the problem has safety implications, it's warranted IMO to demand a deadline for satisfaction.
I'd review the lemon law closely (better if you have access to legal counsel) to see how your case qualifies.
A 3rd party electrical specialist will certainly identify and fix the cause of the problem, but Honda rightfully should get involved with this individual and not its customers, especially since your car is under manufacturer's warranty.
Hope this helps.
I was told that there were 2[?] parts that had to be replaced in my driver's side door assembly and one in the driver's side rear window to end the noise.
When the parts are in and I have it done, I'll let you know if the noise stops.
[... and if anyone has a reolution to the FM static problem on the 2003 LX-6, I'd like to hear about it.]
I recently decided to go ahead and fix them myself but need assistance. I'm looking to purchase the 2 Honda used Actuators (probably advisable to get all 4 ????? - any suggestions) from a Junk yard or possibly buy on-line all 4.
QUESTION IS: which (after market) Actuators are compatible with my 1997 Honda Accord EX.
THE BIG QUESTION: How do you remove the Door Lock Actuator itself from the door. I did manage to successfully pry open the door panel and remove the nylon paper off the door, unhooked the wiring but can't seem to figure out how to remove the Actuator. ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, or referrals to web sites with manuals, pics etc on taking the actuator out.
=> Any suggestions on where I can get a good deal on Honda actuators will be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks..