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Comments
because I noticed after a full stop and releasing the brake to take off, I can hear a noise also. Don't know if that noise is the one you hear.
The dealder said that the problem affected four- and six-cylinder models. It could be limited to the V6 models, since they might require more brake noise insulation, etc. I don't know the extent of the problem.
I called Honda Customer Relations about the matter. A case manager is supposed to call me back within a week, at which point I may have more info.
As to your brake issue, I'm not sure if it's the same thing as mine. I get a very loud grinding noise as soon as I step on the brake. It stops if I take my foot off the brake. That seems a bit different from what you're experiencing.
NHTSA have great database with various complains about each car http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm.
I found same issue with transmission.
PS. Thats a common problem in Accords and Integras.
If the alternator drive belt is a bit loose and it slips enough, it will heat up and this will kill an alternator in a hurry. So if you hear the alternator drive belt screeching-tighten or replace it-alternators are costly to replace on the road by the highway gang.
One issue is in hot weather I could not start the engine. Somebody owning the same year honda accord told me it is a relay part (or something like that) which expands and loses touch under hot temperature. Anybody noticed such problem and have it fixed? How much could it cost?
Also my passenger door handle pad (plastic) was cracked and the handle is loosen up there, but I can still open the door with it. Again any idea how much could it cost? Would that only be fixed at dealers?
Thanks a lot!!
The dealer here in Tucson told me that Honda has a tech notice out about a broken clip on the balance shaft seal (92 Accord), but that the offer of Honda to do it as warranty work expired in Jan. I had brought my car to the dealer for an oil change in April and he noticed the problem, but he couldn't fix it then, and I needed the car for a long trip. An independant shop charged me $150 to fix it.
Now I'm wondering, after the fact, of course, shouldn't Honda have alerted me as a registered owner that the problem exists so that it could be fixed free? I would have taken it in before Jan. if I was aware of the /potential problem/offer. Do you think Honda will re-emburse me for the work done now, as I wasn't notified?
Thanks.
Melech
pbnewbs: TURN OFF THE CAPS, IT'S HARD TO READ!
The 'noise' you are hearing and feeling probably is the ABS brake system doing a 'self check'. It only happens when you first drive off after starting the car. This is normal.
1) Driver-side dashboard buzz: Pressing down on the instrument cowl's bottom left corner, the buzz disappears. Seems like a plastic-against-plastic rubbing. Solution is to disassemble cowl and trim parts.
2) Driver-side window creak: Crack window just so, without letting wind in. Creak disappears, indicating that glass' top edge rubs against window channel. Long-term solution is to change window channel with better material; short-term is to apply clear lubricant/chemical.
3) Soft rattle from center compartment below HVAC controls: head-scratcher to this time
Not sure if dealer has TSBs or remedies todate, but honestly most of the time ignoring the noises is preferable to visiting the dealer only to hear "it's the car's aerodynamics creating the window noise" and statements of that nature.
I'll still visit the dealer sometime soon and find out, but if anyone has developments to share in these areas, the news will be much appreciated.
www.ahmotor.com
This is a honda dealer that sells parts online. The prices are usually a little bit cheaper than regular dealer prices. They could probably send you directions on how to change the parts too. Good luck.
shows the location for the relay, if it is the problem.
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
is the entry page for the troubleshooting and diagnosis...
Hope this helps.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Atlantaberry, Your #2 creak. I had this. Applied a little silocone lube on a Q-tip, ran it around the track window slides in and now noise is gone.
They tried the lube, etc. but the real tick is that it's the wiring to the power mirror (inside the door) that is making the rattle. They opened it up, re-insulated it, and it went away.
I know it sounds strange, but it's how the sounds travelled up the glass.
1) Driver-side dashboard buzz: Pressing down on the instrument cowl's bottom left corner, the buzz disappears. Seems like a plastic-against-plastic rubbing. Solution is to disassemble cowl and trim parts.
As for the rattle from the center compartment below HVAC controls the dealer is aware of the issue. The mechanical assembly doesn't latch tightly. They will have a fix soon. My dealer offered to replace the compartment on mine with one with the new latch.
Hope this helps.
On the center compartment panel - thanks for the tip.
If it's not in the line of sight and can be drilled and filled with the silicon, it's relatively cheap for insurance company compared to a windshield. They have agreements for lower prices than retail customer gets--just like hospitals and health insurance companies.
My insurance will pay full cost of having the chip drilled and filled and still replace windshield later if it should spread further... I had that done on a 93 in 95. Didn't want them messing with the seals and possible problems with replacement job. It worked wonderfully. Have new chip on 98 car. Will have State Farm do same. It's near edge so I'm concerned it may slowly crack further, otherwise I'd just leave it alone. The repair people come to your home or job location.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If it's not in the line of sight and can be drilled and filled with the silicon, it's relatively cheap for insurance company compared to a windshield. They have agreements for lower prices than retail customer gets--just like hospitals and health insurance companies.
My insurance will pay full cost of having the chip drilled and filled and still replace windshield later if it should spread further... I had that done on a 93 in 95. Didn't want them messing with the seals and possible problems with replacement job. It worked wonderfully. Have new chip on 98 car. Will have State Farm do same. It's near edge so I'm concerned it may slowly crack further, otherwise I'd just leave it alone. The repair people come to your home or job location.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I've read a few post about a popping noise upon start acceleration and stopping. I've also noticed the same noise in my 03 Accord. Has anyone had any luck having the problem resolved by honda service?
I posted message # 4976 on March 24th regarding a mysterious battery drain on a brand new 2003 Honda Accord Ex with Navigation. Shortly thereafter, I took my car in to the service center of the dealership in which I bought my car.
They told me they could not identify any issues regarding the battery drain but gave me a brand new battery. About 2 weeks later after leaving the car alone for about a week, the battery went dead and so I got a jump to start the car. Another 4 days later, I went to start the car to avoid another battery jump for the coming weekend. The car was dead and I got a jump 2 days later and made another appointment to service the car.
I took the car back to the Service Center this past Tuesday morning and informed them of the problem and the history of the dead battery. By the end of that working day, I received a call from the Service center and they told me they could not identify a problem. I stated that there was obviously a problem with the car and told them that I needed them to identify the problem and they could hold on to the car as I do not use it on weekdays at all and was not in a rush to get it back as fixing the problem was more important. The next day, I received a voicemail that they did find the battery dead. I've received a message on Thursday that they still could not identify the caise and have not heard back on Friday after I left a message for the Service rep.
The car was purchased in mid-January and I've only put about 1000 miles on it. There was already 170 miles on it from transporting it from another dealership.
Obviously, I am not happy about this problem since I bought a new car to avoid this.
Any opinions on this issue would be well appreciated. Thank you.
I too have that clunking noise when I first get moving after the car has sat. I'm assuming it's nothing really and until I hear something about it being sign of a problem I'm not sure what a dealer would really do.
So again, please respond with thoughts about the symptoms I mentioned... drag, vibration in the pedal, poor gas milage. Am I right that it sounds like something the dealer should fix. Also, I'd feel that if it's something like this they should also give me new pads, etc., as I should have to pay to replace these pads next time as they aged quickly due to this. Thanks!
What do you mean sticky brakes? That is my feeling when I take off after a full stop. Don't know how to describe the noise, but when I release the brake pedal, it comes. Not every time though.
Have you checked your tire pressure against the numbers specified on the door post?
I called Honda Customer Relations and have a case manager who is working with Honda and my dealer to resolve the situation, as it seems to require a fix from the manufacturer.
You might want to check with your dealer and then try Honda if the dealer can't help.
I posted message # 4976 on March 24th regarding a mysterious battery drain on a brand new 2003 Honda Accord Ex with Navigation. Shortly thereafter, I took my car in to the service center of the dealership in which I bought my car.
They told me they could not identify any issues regarding the battery drain but gave me a brand new battery. About 2 weeks later after leaving the car alone for about a week, the battery went dead and so I got a jump to start the car. Another 4 days later, I went to start the car to avoid another battery jump for the coming weekend. The car was dead and I got a jump 2 days later and made another appointment to service the car.
I took the car back to the Service Center this past Tuesday morning and informed them of the problem and the history of the dead battery. By the end of that working day, I received a call from the Service center and they told me they could not identify a problem. I stated that there was obviously a problem with the car and told them that I needed them to identify the problem and they could hold on to the car as I do not use it on weekdays at all and was not in a rush to get it back as fixing the problem was more important. The next day, I received a voicemail that they did find the battery dead. I've received a message on Thursday that they still could not identify the caise and have not heard back on Friday after I left a message for the Service rep.
The car was purchased in mid-January and I've only put about 1000 miles on it. There was already 170 miles on it from transporting it from another dealership.
Obviously, I am not happy about this problem since I bought a new car to avoid this.
Any opinions on this issue would be well appreciated. Thank you.
First-time problems in a new model such as your case are probably the longest to diagnose because there's no historical reference.
That said, on the principle that 1) one shouldn't be deprived of ownership privileges on a car that's been purchased (i.e., extended use of a loaner deprives one of these privileges), and that 2) the problem has safety implications, it's warranted IMO to demand a deadline for satisfaction.
I'd review the lemon law closely (better if you have access to legal counsel) to see how your case qualifies.
A 3rd party electrical specialist will certainly identify and fix the cause of the problem, but Honda rightfully should get involved with this individual and not its customers, especially since your car is under manufacturer's warranty.
Hope this helps.
I was told that there were 2[?] parts that had to be replaced in my driver's side door assembly and one in the driver's side rear window to end the noise.
When the parts are in and I have it done, I'll let you know if the noise stops.
[... and if anyone has a reolution to the FM static problem on the 2003 LX-6, I'd like to hear about it.]
I recently decided to go ahead and fix them myself but need assistance. I'm looking to purchase the 2 Honda used Actuators (probably advisable to get all 4 ????? - any suggestions) from a Junk yard or possibly buy on-line all 4.
QUESTION IS: which (after market) Actuators are compatible with my 1997 Honda Accord EX.
THE BIG QUESTION: How do you remove the Door Lock Actuator itself from the door. I did manage to successfully pry open the door panel and remove the nylon paper off the door, unhooked the wiring but can't seem to figure out how to remove the Actuator. ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, or referrals to web sites with manuals, pics etc on taking the actuator out.
=> Any suggestions on where I can get a good deal on Honda actuators will be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks..