Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

inkie · June 2003

Can you verify to me if the 2000 Accord V6 chassis has any grease wells on the steering rack? I don't have a shop manual and the chilton books do not show any. I am pretty sure there are none but I would appreciate if you can verify. Also want to lube the bushings and movable parts of the rack, I use silicone spray but I remember sometime back you recommended some other lube spray that you thought was better. Do you remember what? Thank you.

auburn63 · June 2003

There are no greese points on the rack or for that matter anywhere in a Honda these days for the most part. The bushings that hold the rack in place can be lubed with Dow Corning 111, no other parts on the rack need any additional lubing.

gregoryc1 · June 2003

Our Accord now has 9,500+ miles on the clock. It has a very smooth idle, even with the A/C on. No rattles and no exhaust odor. I will be getting the oil and filter changed (at / or) about 10,000+ miles,(depending on our schedule), (since the last service was the 7,500 mile service). (Yes, I believe in frequent oil and filter changes, since this service is cheap "preventive maintenance"). The engine does not use any oil between oil changes, and it is VERY quiet and smooth. I also believe in using the selling dealer for this service, so that there are no warranty issues "down the road" if a malfunction should occur with the engine. (It is their oil and filter). I would HIGHLY recommend the 2003 4cyl Accord to anyone who wants a HIGH quality automobile. The engine has "GREAT" acceleration for a 4cyl vehicle. There is no need for the V6.------------------------ (And for those who might be interested,---I am still using "Premium Fuel", and my favorite fuel supplement).-----(Notice, I did not use the word "additive"!---As we all know, the "A" word is not permitted on the Honda Board). In addition, I allow the engine to "warm - up" in the morning prior to driving the vehicle. ---(It gives me a chance to have a second cup of flavored coffee, before I hit the road.)---- Yes, ---I am committing many "automotive sins"! But on the other side of the issue, I have a sweet running piece of equipment, so I guess that I will continue to do what I am doing, because the results that I am getting are positive. -----Just my opinion. ----Greg

ian2 · June 2003

If there is one thing that I learned from engineering, it would be the engineers tend to over-design everything. When a spec says x, it may well take 1.5x, 2x or even higher. So the spec calls for 10000-mile oil change, there is still a safety margin well above it to account for any variances in manufacturing and assembly. Without such margin, Honda would find itself in hot water over litigations, not to mention damages to its reputation.

according2me · June 2003

My 01 LX is approaching 98K miles and still starts immediately, idles and runs smoothly and gets good mpg (even though I still have the original plugs, cap and rotor). I have never experienced the sulfur odor others have complained about either. (Luck of the draw???)

I do my own routine maintenance(fluids,filters,lubing hinges,inspections). I change my oil/filter at 6K-8K intervals, depending on the driving pattern, using M1 and the OEM filter and the oil level stays at the top hash mark. I don't believe in using the dealer for their 7.5K-15K-30K service packages and other upsells. I will use my selling dealer (because they have a good service shop) to adjust valves or replace timing belt/water pump. But that's about it.

Oh yeah, I use 87 octane (Sam's or Chevron mostly) and occasional (every 10K-15K or so) add Techron if I've used mostly wholesale gas.

I start my engine and let it idle less than a minute, which is just enough time to buckle the seat belt, adjust the mirrors and put the radio back on my favorite station. Then I accelerate gradually until the temp gauge reaches it's normal reading.

I also have a sweet running piece of machinery and am looking forward to seeing 300K with this vehicle, without any major repairs. Only time will tell. I will continue to use this procedure because I too have had great success and positive results, and BTW, with a much higher mileage figure. Do you have such a goal also or do you typically trade your vehicles before 100K miles.

Different strokes for different folks, but we are in agreement on one thing. Honda makes a very reliable, long lasting, comfortable cruising vehicle. Good luck with yours.

gregoryc1 · June 2003

I enjoyed reading your posting. The 2003 Accord was "purchased", so as such, we plan on keeping it for a least 7 years or 100,000 miles. (We purchased a 7yr / 100,000 mile extended warranty on this vehicle). My wife has a 2000 Civic on a 3yr lease, which we will purchase at the end of the lease. Most likely we will put an extended warranty on that vehicle, (4yr 100,000 mile). Prior to these two cars, we had a leased 1997 Accord and a 2000 Accord. They were on a 3 yr 36,000 mile lease, and when we turned them back to the lease company, they had about that mileage. The "key" to your posting is the use of "Techron" in your fuel on occasion. This is VERY important with regards to "carbon control". The new fuels that are on the market today, are not "engine friendly". This past Saturday, I was purchasing some fuel at a Texaco station. The vehicle in front of me was taking on a load of regular fuel, and the wind was pushing the fumes in my direction. The fuel did not have an alcohol odor, but rather, it smelled like Benzine or Carbon Tetrachloride. While these fluids are great cleaning agents, they do not have the ability to lubricate moving parts in the upper cylinder area. ----Just my opinion. ---Greg

heat23 · June 2003

I have a 1996 Accord EX V6. Ever since we bought the car in 1997, we noticed that the car decelerates very rapidly. Especially when driving under 30 mph, when we let go of the accelerator it feels like the brakes are being pushed. That's the speed its most noticable, but even at highway speeds it decelerates faster than normal.
If anyone has any ideas PLEASE email me at ecelonghorn@yahoo.com

thanks!

inkie · June 2003

Thanks for the quick answer and information that I was looking for.

jander111 · June 2003

My friend has a 93 Accord EX with 100k miles. Intermittently (maybe 1 in every 50 starts.) the car is very hard to start. Engine hot or cold.

The car was not maintained very well by the previous owner. Recently the valve cover gasket, air filter, spark plugs were replaced. The plug wires, visible ground contacts, battery & cables seem fine.

What's the most likely cause for the non-start? Fuel filter? pressure regulator? ...??

Thank you very much for your help.

storm11 · June 2003

Heat23:
I know my '02 EXL V6 has a grade logic transmission, which has programming in it that uses "engine braking" to slow the car once off the accelerator.

Not sure if the '96's had the same type of transmission. Effectively, grade logic senses deceleration as if you were going down a hill (grade). Mine is too new to determine brake wear, but I believe Accords get very good life out of the pads. This logic may have something to do with it. Also, check your brakes. If recently replaced/adjusted, sometimes the shops let the pads rub too much when off the brake. They should touch lightly when the wheel is rotated, but need to be adjusted properly for correct wear. Usually, if the brakes are set too tight, though, you'll notice the car is a bit more sluggish accelerating too. I'm no mechanic, but this may be some areas to look into.

Good luck.

hullhonda · June 2003

I have had a clunking noise coming from my trunk for about a year now. Every time I go over any bump it clunks. I have taken the vehicle to three dealers with no success. Finally the last dealer located the problem and claimed they lubed something and it stopped the noise for 1/2 day. Now they are saying I need front and rear stabilizer links and rear control arm bushing. The cost is $162 parts and $356 for labor. They claim it is due from wear and tear due to salt and sand from the winter. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

winterland4 · June 2003

Shortly after purchasing my 2003 Accord EX, the car developed a grinding noise from the front drivers side wheel. After a trip to the dealer, they changed the brake pads and applied dressing. A few days later it returned, and this time, after dismantling the abs system, the dealer first said it was a self test being performed by the abs, then admitted they had no clue what it was. Any other owners having this problem, or any clues what it may be? Warped rotor perhaps? Also the brakes have been very "Grabby" enough to lock my seatbelts at speeds under 20mph. Should I try another Honda Dealership, contact Honda? Or get it independently looked at? Thanks.

ian2 · June 2003

If you're talking about the noise when you have just set the car in motion, it would be the ABS self test. It should go away after a couple of seconds, until you next start the car. I find the brakes grabby at first, but it seems to be fine after breaking them in.

mikek37 · June 2003

03 Accord Brakes:

What are everyone's impressions.

winterland4 · June 2003

Ian, thanks for your reply. The noise is constant, whenever the brake pedal is depressed. The abs self check diagnosis was made by the dealer tech. after he admitted he didn`t know why it was making the noise. I guess he hoped I would accept the noise as normal, and go away. The noise happens with each revolution of the wheel, as if there is a warp in the disc.

downeast1 · June 2003

We just got a new 2003 V6 sedan, traded in a 1998. What a difference! My wife loves this car, rides better,more power and the trans does not have that 50 mph jerkiness. the brakes are a little grabby though, but I attribute that to being new, will have to drive it awhile if I can get it away from my wife. did not notice any noise coming from the front wheels like a rotar rubbing or anything. I really like the adjustable steering wheel, makes it much more comfortable to drive.

mikek37 · June 2003

The thing I noticed in regards to the brakes are 1) Yes they are grabby 2) This seems to make the brakes feel as if they are warped a bit, but this may be due to the grabby nature. Doesn anyone else experience this pulsating/grabby/ warping feel?

lancerfixer · June 2003

Well, the ol' 94 Accord coupe just hit 130,000 miles. It's running like a champ, but recent excursions onto less than optimum roads have shown a definite need for new shocks. I'm just looking for replacements for the OEMs...anyone have any suggestions?

auburn63 · June 2003

The most common problem with those is a bad main fuel relay which causes the car to intermitantly not start or restart after sitting for short time after running. Mostly happens in warmer weather but can go bad at any time..

jander111 · June 2003

I'll pass this info to him.

avcii2 · June 2003

I have a 2003 Pilot EX-L. I picked it up in October and after three weeks, I experienced a grinding noise from the driver's side rear wheel whenever I took off from a stop. I took it to the dealer and they tried almost everything brake related and could not get rid of the noise. My wife and I stopped for lunch after making an appointment with the service dept for later in the week. After lunch,the wheel in question actually locked up. We limped back to the dealership and the technician found that the emergency brake froze on us. Each depression of the brake caused it to get tighter but not release. They disconnected the emergency brake and replaced the part at the next appointment. No problems since. Ask the service dept to check the emergency brake especially if you have used it recently.

mikek37 · June 2003

I know this belongs in the pilot forum, but I couldnt help but ask. How do you enjoy your pilot avc, my parents are looking to purchase one. If you have time can you tell me the 3 things you love about the car, and the three things you hate about it. Thanks.

Ps How much did you pay for that nice automobile.

angleral · June 2003

Just returned from my local Honda dealer, he's got a few 2003 Accord dealer demo's out front, as I was looking at these slightly used cars for sale, I noticed that almost all had little paint chips on the hood in the front of the car, some were quite unsightly.. Wondering if this is a problem with the new Accords after a few thousand miles on them? Thinking of purchasing a new Accord v6 with Nav. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Al

avcii2 · June 2003

My wife and I love it. She was afraid of driving such a big vehicle until the test drive. Aside from the emergency brake problem, we have had a fairly good time in it.

Likes:
*Room
*Drives Well-(I also have an Integra, so comparatively speaking, the Pilot is quiet and comfortable, yet strong)
*Price (we paid MSRP for Wht EX-L made in Sept 2002)
*Fact that it is closely related to the MDX, which was my first choice, but refused to pay $4,000 over MSRP in NYC.

Dislikes:
*Usual unease about driving first year model, but we are getting over that (knock on wood).
*Small looking wheels.
*Though more luxurious then my previous cars, Honda could offer such luxury comforts as seat memory and heaters (in USA model), side mirror defrost, sunroof, etc. But obviously they do not want to crowd out the MDX.
*seats could be tiny bit more comfortable by adding a better head rest.

mikek37 · June 2003

Thanks, I appreciatte your comments!

tony258 · June 2003

Does anyone have this problem? My Windhield seems to fog up on the driver's side all the time, even on a sunny warm day? I'd turn the fan and a/c all the way up and it still onw't go away till I wipe it. Could there be a leak in the windhield?

lancerfixer · June 2003

Make sure your air vents are set to "fresh" and not "recirculate."

spokane · June 2003

Good advice from Lancerfixer. Also watch your coolant level carefully. A leak in the heater core can allow coolant mist to get to the windshield - messy and difficult to clean away. The greater risk, of course, is engine failure due to insufficient coolant.

crv16 · June 2003

I'd recommend biting the bullet and going with the genuine Honda replacement struts. Years ago, I went to Midas to have my Accord's struts replaced, and it never handled the same afterward.

winterland4 · June 2003

Ian2, thanks for replying, but the grinding noise is most definitely not the abs self check, as it is continuous whenever the brakes are applied, and grinds in direct relationship to wheel speed. I havent considered a parking brake problem, as the noise comes from the front drivers side. I`m still thinking this is a disc warp problem.

plethysmo · June 2003

The left front speaker buzzes, especially during AM radio when there is a news, talk, or baseball game broadcast on. I can't see if the speaker has visible damage and don't see a way to remove the grill covering without dismantling the door.
This speaker is mounted inside the front lower area of the driver's door in a 2003 Accord Coupe LX. If I press my fingers against the grill over the speaker, then the buzzing is suppressed. So maybe the grill is vibrating based on the tone of the voice through the speaker. The speaker on the other door does not seem to have the buzz. Any recommendations?

sd4sun · June 2003

I have a new 2003 Honda Accord EX - manual transmission, 4 cylinder. When the car had less than 5k miles, the disc brakes acted like they were warped and the car vibrated badly on braking. The dealer said they would replace front pads and machine the rotors as a goodwill gesture.
The car now has 9,500 miles and the vibration is back. I'm sure the brakes are faulty; I'm not a 'hard braker'and hope the company will continue to have "good will". Does anyone have the same problem or can suggest a permanent solution?

slvrexl · June 2003

Hello all - I have a brand spankin new EX-L with about 500 miles on it. I have to agree with the previous posters that the brakes are very "grabby" and I am a bit surprised. I also find it odd that my rotors that I can see through the Alloy wheels are very rusted and brown for a brand new car. I know that they oxodize quickly, but want to be sure that is not the issue. When I brake at slow speeds especially, the car jerks and my belt will lock up. I know how to drive and am not hard on my brakes whatsoever...any thoughts or remedies. Will this get better as I put mileage on the car? Otherwise...it is BEAUTIFUL!

tnguyen74 · June 2003

I also have an 03 EX Auto that's experiencing brake rotor warping. I have 8K on the car now. Is this covered under the warranty? I beleive it's covered uner 12K or so but I haven't taken it into the dealer yet.

fritz1224 · June 2003

Has anyone with the 200 hp v6 accord had their valves adjusted yet? Mine is a 2k w/45k miles and it seems the engine is noisier than when new. The ticking/tapping seems to come from the top part of the engine so I am assuming it's the valves. When I asked the dealer about the cost he initially expressed surprise, saying the mileage was too low to need this kind of work. But it would run about $370 or so. Whew. At that price I might just live with it for a while longer. Any possible damage that can occur if they are needing adjustment and it's not done.
Auburn, have you done this to any v6's and if so, what kind of mileage was the average? Does the price sound right and is it a fairly complicated thing to do?

auburn63 · June 2003

I have adjusted the valves before but usally not at that mileage. Up around 90k usally. As long as the noise is not too bad then no harm is being done but if it gets loud then here can be other damage from excessive play but my bet is that you are far away from that point...Good luck

ian2 · June 2003

It's normal to see rust on the rotors, because the intense heat they experience speeds up oxidization. Unless of course you have a set of those ceramic rotors on the Ferrari Enzo...

aming · June 2003

Holly hanna batman. How the hell did you know I had them? LOL

outlawtitan · June 2003

FWIW - I have a new 2003 Accord LX coupe with M/T and have not had any trouble with my brakes at all. In fact they seem to be an improvement over my 2K Accord SE.

fritz1224 · June 2003

Thanks Auburn for the quick reply. You're the best. You should have a place on "Member Spotlight" list Edmunds currently has. Right up there with "Shipo"

bburton3 · June 2003

Had a CEL and did the simple check-got 7 long blinks-checked the fluid and it was low and burnt-changed fluid 3 times after driving about 50 miles between changes. Went to Auto Zone and got a free OBDII reading and it said 0720. ALso still got 7 long flashes from the simple test. Oh and there was no metal or debris in the atf and used Honda atf when replacing.

My honda manual says of DTC 0720, lock up clutch does not engage. Possible causes listed as a number of things with the countershaft speed sensor-disconnected, short/open in line and faulty countershaft speed sensor.

Could the lock clutch be burned out due to low fluid? Anything else to check other than going thru the diagnostic tree in the Helm Honda manual. Suggestions appreciated.

CHECK THAT ATF LEVEL PEOPLE.

bburton3 · June 2003

Sorry but it is a 97 I4 automatic accord with 156K.

auburn63 · June 2003

Besides the code 7 on the ECM/check engine light you should have had a D4light blinking 9 times. You could (if not already done)clear the code and see if it resets, if not it could just be a one time thing. If not then the first thing I would do is look at the connector and wires leading to and away from the sensor. If you dont already know it is the one on the end case/firewall side of the trans, two pin connector. If connected and wires in good shape,not chewed up by rodents or anything. Unplug the sensor and check it for 400-600 ohms of resistance. If not in that range then the sensor is bad, if so then you either have a wire problem, bad shift solenoids or slipping transmission..Good luck and let me know if you need more diag info after this..

cards_200 · June 2003

How important to disconnect air bag when changing the A/C cabin filter? (or other under dash work). Is this really necessary? Or do the manuals include this just to be on overly cautious side?

rabi504 · June 2003

I have been browsing this site for a long time, and really enjoy reading everyone's messages. This is the first time I am posting a question. I hope someone has an answer for me. During the first minute or two that my A/C is started up, there is a moldy smell that comes out. My dealership said there is nothing they can do about it. We have had a mechanic blow air through the system, but it has not helped. Does anyone know what the problem might be and/or how to fix it?

auburn63 · June 2003

cards_200
The warning is there because of a real chance that the air bags could explode causing injury. However with that said I have been doing dash work, filters and even SRS repair work without disconnecting the battery for years. Maybe I am just lucky, maybe Honda is just covering the legal end or maybe it just takes more than one signal to blow the bag like would be the case normally. It just comes down to a matter of preferance. Good luck

auburn63 · June 2003

We use a evaporator cleaner solution that gets sprayed at the evap core. Maybe some auto parts sell something similar. If not and you dont mind the smell of Lysol, you can spray some into the outside cowl vent area, with the air flow on fresh and high speed. This will intake the Lysol through the blower and throw at the evaporator. Since Lysol kills germs and mildew on contact this should work atleast temporary. Other than that to help in the future you can try and dry out the evap before shut down by turning system on fresh, a/c off, temp on the warm side for the last 5 min before you park at night.Good luck

hondadriven · June 2003

Also, (to add to what Auburn suggested), check to see if your AC drain is working properly. After running the AC for a while, you should see water dripping underneath vehicle on the passenger side. If not, that needs to be cleared or checked to see where its draining (hopefully not the inside)....ie. the drain tube

Also check underneath your carpet on both the driver & passenger side (front) to make sure its not wet, (moldy etc).

(I don't know how often Cabin Air Filters are replaced.. tells U I haven't had/done mine ;-).. but that could also be something to look into if all else fails)
=> As always, Good Luck !!

wwhite2 · June 2003

THe A/C compressor on my 98 Accord LX cycles on and off ... about one minute on ,one min off the cooling fans always run while the A/C compressor is running then turn off while the compressor is off . The low side pressure read ok the outlet temp is at 50 degrees any ideas ?this an A/C problem or a PCM problem ,thanks

cynic · June 2003

Hi guys,

May be somebody can help me out. My 2002 Ex V6 Accord has been flawless so far, but just yesterday the CD changer refused to accept any new CDs and totally stop functioning, it shows CD ERR on its screen which according to the manual means that it is something mechanical and probably requires dealer's assistance ... When I tried to use it this morning, it sounded like it was trying to load a CD and then everything stops ... Is there a workaround or do I really have to go to the dealer? The car is under warranty, so I am not particulary worried but it is kind of annoying.

Thanks!

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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