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Thanks,
Frustrated
A few days later I opened the hood to listen for myself, and when I put my ear to the valve cover I could hear the valves ticking away, but they were fairly quiet, and you could not hear them unless you were right up close. The other ticking was still there, but seemed to be coming from lower down in the engine. It occurs at about 240-300 ticks per minute (4 to 5 per second), and is present even when the car is fully warmed up.
Overall the engine seems course sounding to me. It idles quite loudly (when you are outside the vehicle). It is quiet under light load, or when cruising, but during moderate acceleration it is quite noisy (sounds kind of like an older Subaru boxer engine, but not quite that bad). I did test drive a 2.3L VTEC that still seemed a little course during acceleration, but was smoother overall and there was no tick.
Is the 2.3 VTEC generally smoother than the 2.2 non VTEC?
Is this behavior (ticking and course sounding) typical of Honda engines (had a Toyota 4-cyl that seemed smoother) or is there something that may be wrong with mine?
Thanks.
2. Do I need to remove the belts?
3. Do I need to disconnect the wires of the alternator?
4. The manual says that it is needed to re-torque the nut to 180 St after the adjustment. How can that kind of torque on the pulley not turn the engine with manual or auto transmission? Thank you advance and I think some other guys over there reading this forums might want to get hands dirty.
If you are correct in your discription and it is a tick rather than a knock then I would either suspect a loose timing belt which to me sounds more like a slapping but may sound like a tick, or a valve noise.94-96 had a small problem with the #2 intake rockers.They would wear premature and need replacement. To diag this you would need to check the valve clearance and if found to be more than a few mm/thousands out of spec then probably would need it.
Accordic,
1.If you turn the wheel all the way to the left and look at the splash shield you will see a cut out section. Bend those out or in and use a 19mm socket on an extension to turn the crank pulley.No need to re-torque that bolt it is a bear to get off.
2.Do not need to remove any belts
3.Do not need to disconnect any wires except for the ground wire that goes to the valve cover.The other wires can be cleared on removal and install by moving them slightly.
4.No need for a re-torque godzilla can't get that bolt loose most of the time.
One final question. How do you differentiate between a tick and a knock? I know it is hard to describe sounds. If the engine sound is a knock, what does that mean?
My take is that a knock is the sound from using low octane fuel, and a tick sounds like tapping two pencils together. I would say the main diff is the knock is louder, but how loud is loud?
Coupes, Convertibles & Sports Cars > Honda Accord Coupe-Part 3
#442 of 442 SQUEAKS, no RATTLES by notm
Anybody want to teach me how to make words link to specific messages, please?
Notm
You can right-click on the message-number link, copy the link, then paste it into a new post. The way the link displays in the new post is a feature of WebX.
For making other "hot" links, check out some of the html tutorials on the web. There are many!
:-)
Pat
Roving Host
I don't know what is typical though. I looked at a new front torsion mount and it had a fair amount of movement within itself. It was not a stiff mount by design.
My question is: How much should the engine transfer/shift/rotate under acceleration or engagement of gears with an auotmatic? Also, if the front mount is shot, does it result in the failure of the other mounts? Does the front torsion mount typically fail due to its inherient application and it being located beside the high temperature of the exhaust manifold?
Finally, how many engine mounts are their? I only see three, one front and two side. Their is a mention of a rear mount in the Haynes' repair guide. It was described as electrical though. Any input would be appreciated. Calling any gear heads.
Well I think at this point is would be a worth wild venture to have a trans flush. There are machines that work well and there are manual labor procedures. Either way they sometimes cure sticking valves or partially blocked pressure holes.Honda doesn't advise the use of any additives so you may have to request that they do not use any. Also the Honda trans fluid is better and does make a shift quality change.Also have them look at it for you while you are there and see what they think.Good luck
Dudleyr,
A knock noise is more of a deeper noise than a tick and usally unless real bad will only happen on a load situation.They octane noise is more of a ping but would be closer to a tick than a knock if that helps any.
ahughes2,
There are four mounts, one is on the pulley side of the motor,2 is on the transmission, 3 is bettween radiator and motor(front side), 4 is opposite 3 on the rear beam and attaches to the motor and trans.The rear mount (4) is operated by vacuum which is controlled by a solenoid.You can test that one by having someone in the car in gear and pulling off the vacuum hose going to the mount. If the vibration gets worse then it is ok but if no change then it could be bad.The front(3)mount really needs to be taken of the car and looked at to be 100% that it is bad but we see alot of them go bad and cause vibs.Other possibilities are tight valves, intake manifold leaks to high idle, too low idle and balancer belts misinstalled.Good luck
The magnitude of the vibration was reduced when I replaced it. The other mounts were probably stressed by #3's failure. The small vibration it has now is tollerable. Thanks for the info. Auburn.
maintenance done on the car, otherwise its well cared for(regular oil changes and such).
I noticed recently that there is a oil leak from the engine. From the looks of it, the engine
has been leaking for a few days (a week or so). My dealer says that it could be a major
repair (I took it in for some bodywork and he noticed it). I haven't noticed anything amiss
while driving. The oil leaks from the engine gasket at the top.
What should I do? If it is a major repair, how much can I look forward to paying for
it? Also, should I get it repaired elsewhere if it turns out to be a major repair?
Thanks
Response is greatly appreciated ...
thanks ... xsite25
I have been thru this entire board and not found much discussion on my issues:
'96 EX Sedan
1. ABS light comes on momentarily accompanied by a tick from behind glove box, pop on the radio, and the speedo dances to zero and back. This appeared a little over a year ago. The dealer jiggled some wires and it went away but has now returned. The dealer cannot fix it. It eventually goes off and appears to have no adverse affects on the car. Anybody else seen this?
2. AC system leaking and needs $650 worth of work. Any comments on AC problems at, IMO, such a young age?
Thx for your feedback,
bteddlie
It's not the key - I've used all of my keys. Because the shifter won't shift out of Park when this is going on, it's gotten to the point where I leave the car in Drive at drive-up windows because I'm afraid if I put it in Park, I won't be able to leave! It's actually happened to me at the drive-up window of my bank, and also at the end of my drive when I left the car running in Park while I crossed the street to get the mail. I've also had to leave the keys in it once or twice because I didn't have enough time to just sit and wait. I'd throw something over the steering wheel so you couldn't see the keys hanging out and use my spare to get back in.
Also, I've had major problems with the electric windows on this car (I bought the car used). The driver's window was rising outside the guide track on the way up and I had to pull inward on it while going up to make it stay in the track. The passenger window was also making a lot of noise on the way up. I was told that the regulators were bent and I had them replaced in both front doors. The windows are going up OK now, but there is still a lot of noise going on inside the door when they're used. It sounds like metal bending each time.
I love my Honda. It's been a very mechanically sound car for me, but it's definitely had it's quirks. I have never replaced so many tires on a car in my life. And never have I had a windshield take as many rock hits or crack as badly as the two I've put on this car. It's like a huge magnet that just attracts rocks to jump up on my hood and slide on up.
Anyone else having these problems? - Thanks!
Hope you find the source of your leak!
The PGM-FI light comes on while cruising at light throttle settings between 2000 to 3000 RPM. If I keep the RPMs over 3000 at freeway speeds the light does not come on. I have replaced the O2 sensor in the exhaust header and this did not seem to help. Switching the ignition off and back on will reset the light. Is there another sensor that should be replaced or something else that should be done? Car has about 148,000 miles, is well maintained and no other problems.
Thanks, Paul
My questions are:
1) Where IS this sensor and its cabling.
2) Is this something a shadetree mechanic can FIX / replace??
3)If I CAN do this myself...are special tools needed?
My CHILTON (actually it's a Haynes)doesn't show it , and says to take it to a dealer for evaluation. Haven't found any details on the NET regarding this fix.
Please give your advice - as I'd HATE to pay $500.00 to the local Honda joint when I can buy an $80.00 part & do it myself.
Thanks in advance.
TRG
Wind Noise: yep, you got it. This is the biggest fault I have with my Honda (other than the leaks). I noticed the wind noise right off myself. I have read in some other places that this is pretty much standard, and my guess is because of the way the mirror housing is designed and placed. Just going to have to live with it and hope Honda realizes it and fixes future designs.
Question: Anybody know about the speedometer problem?
Honda recommends shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15 mph for normal acceleration. This means you are shifting at about 2800 rpm. However, because 2nd gear has a 1.777 ratio, shifting at 15 mph means the engine speed drops to 1500 rpm. If you've driven any Honda 4-cylinder, you know that the engine is absolutely dead at that speed and acceleration really suffers. I've found that to get good normal acceleration, you need to stay in 1st until you hit 22 mph or 4000 rpm. If you shift into 2nd at this speed, the engine drops down to about 2200 rpm, which is just high enough to keep the torque output flowing. Honda's recommended shift points for 3rd, 4th and 5th gears are reasonable. It's 2nd gear that's an issue.
I'm not automotive engineer, but it seems to me a ratio like 1.950 would be a better choice for 2nd gear. With this ratio, you could shift from 1st to 2nd at 18mph and the engine speed would drop from 3350 to 2000. As it stands now, you really need to hold on to 1st gear for a while so the drop to 2nd doesn't kill performance.
2nd gear on a manual transmission is often dubbed the "power gear". 1st is used just to get you going, and 3-5th gears are for cruising at various speeds. With a long 2nd gear, the Accord fails miserably accelerating from a 10 mph coast. Often I find myself slowing down to 8-10 mph in traffic and then needing to accelerate. Well, to protect the drivetrain, you are locked out of 1st gear above about 5 mph (which is too conservative). So, basically, you are stuck with 2nd gear. At 10 mph, 2nd gear spins the engine at 1000 rpm. This means the engine will lug and sound sick if you give it throttle. The only solution I've found is to come to a near-stop and then use 1st to get going. Perhaps this is normal for other cars, but my torquey Ford Contour V6 could start out in 2nd gear without the same issues.
I wonder if Honda engineers had a sly motivation for selecting such a long 2nd gear. At the engine redline of 6250 rpm, 2nd gear produces a road speed of 62 mph. So you only need to shift once in a 0-60 run. I wonder if they were after good 0-60 figures, at the expense of real-world versatility.
Of course, if you really need to haul butt, redlining 1st and 2nd produces fine acceleration. But overall performance would be more appealing if 2nd gear were steeper.
ABS light and elctrical problems, if it is not a loose connector in the area it was last time then it may have a bad fuse box or ignition switch even.When experiancing the problem try to reposition (slightly)the ignition switch. If that doesnt work try pushing on the inside fuse box.Try those first but we have not seen many like yours.
Gas milage I don't have an answer for and the odometer will be and is more acurate than the speedometer is but both have a tolerance and it seems as if yours is within the specs.
The key stuck can be any of the following..A bad brake switch,a bad shift position switch or a bad trans computer. Durring the problem times do you hear a clicking sound with your foot off the brake? If so you need a trans computer for sure.Is the D light on the dash when in park and having trouble?If not then it can be a gear position(inhibitor) switch or bad TCU(trans computer). Plus there is a few other options but try and see about the questions first if you can.
87 LXI you should try and get the code off the computer and that will help lead you to the failing sensor..Probable EGR problem but will need the code.
Speed sensor for the speedometer is located on the trans near the back side and is electrical. Not hard to replace has 2 10mm bolts that hold it in.
Anyone that I didnt answer is due to not having an answer for you at this time but I will try and see..Good luck all...
The odometer in many of the Accords seems to be off by approx. 10% i.e. going 40mph? Nope. Try 36mph. Going 70? Nope. Try 63. How do I know. The local police use the roadside radars that display your speed when you approach. I have gone by (no other cars in front or rear of me) at various speeds and it is always off by close to 10%. About a year ago another new accord owner posted that they had a friend who was a cop and used the radar to verify this and his speedo was also off by 10%. Another had clocked his speedo with a stopwatch and distance meters and his was also off. Someone posted that they did complain to Honda and they said this was within government specifications and they would not do anything about it.
The speedo was within 1 mph before the sensor was replaced. I haven't taken it back yet to see if they can recalibrate the sensor/speedo, because this way my wife may not get speeding tix as much. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Much appreciated,
trg
I just bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX sedan with auto. I like the car a lot, everything except a little problem from the driver's side seat belt. It works, but whenever I move my body or pull on the seat belt, there is a SQUEAKING noise coming out of it. I don't know if anybody out there ever has this problem. And if there is a Honda mechanic out there or anybody, Do you know if the dealer can just change that snapper(or whatever that thing is called that clip on the belt). Thanks for any responses.
OTOH, Honda makes some of the finest manual transmissions on the market. Considering the small-displacements of many Honda engines, you really need the manual control and extra gear ratio of a 5-spd. Of course, if you want the V6, you are stuck with the slushbox...but that MAY change with the redesigned 2003 Accord. Stay tuned!
i have a 93 accord and the driver side door window rolls down fine, but will not go back up? what could be the problem and the easiest way to fix it? thanx
If they are charging $120 for the 15K service, they are going to do some elective light work like you mentioned. More times than not, it isn't worth the money: either you can do it yourself for a lot less, or you wouldn't notice any benefits unless you keep the car for 150K or the like.