I foolishly used a recommended shop to install my auto dimming mirror.The result was a split plastic cover over the driver's sun visor swivel. Has anyone taken one of these apart or is it necessary to replace the whole sun visor? I can't see any obvious way to remaove the visor part from the rod (which would be the only way to slide on the cover). My dealer is a bit far to go to look at his parts book. Any suggestions? Thank you.
I have a 2003 Accord EX V6 and upon decelerating from 50 - 40 mph I hear whine from the transmission. Does anyone else hear this in there accords and is it something to be concerned with?
Try http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/home.htm for the part. If I have the right part in mind it is very simple to replace. The part just snaps on. There is a screw (can't remember if it is a hex or not) that olds the sun visor in place. After removing the visor you sould easily be able to replace toe part.
I, too, had concerns when I first purchased my 2004 Accord EX-L, 4cyl. Manual. My first tank of gas netted about 22 MPG (city/freeway mix). I am now at about 3000 miles, and there is a DRASTIC difference between city and freeway mileage. I NEVER get the estimated city mileage (I am averaging about 17-19 mpg city), but on the reverse side, I almost always exceed freeway estimates (I am averaging 32-37 mpg freeway). It is my opinion, and feel free to chime in on this, that the Accord is a very large car for the 4 cyl. engine. And while there is plenty of power (for my needs, at least) it seems to me that the Accord carries a lot of weight to it, and that the constant stop and go city driving will obviously suck quite a bit more fuel. I think, also, that it depends on your "city" driving. I happen to live in the heart of the downtown area of a pretty large metropolitan area (Sacramento), so my "city" driving is literally stop signs & red lights & traffic congestion at every block. I have come to accept that my city mpg will never reach the manufacturer's estimates. However, I am thrilled with my freeway mpg, and most importantly, I am thrilled with my car. Bottom line...I wouldn't worry too much about it. It's a GREAT car, capable of getting great MPG in the right driving conditions.
Thanks for the reply. My dealer had quoted a price for the whole visor assembly with the remark "Oh, we put it all together to save you trouble." Common sense had me take a closer look at the passenger side and saw the split cover that slides on and snaps in place. Cost about $3.Did seem a little odd you would pay $110 for a broken plastic cover. Next time I'll look closer and ask better questions. Thanks again.
I am looking at buying a pre-owned certified 2001 Accord EX 2-door coupe with a manual transmission. It seems like a great deal, but my only concern is how long the clutch typically lasts on an accord. The car has 49,000 miles on it right now. Please let me know if anyone has any input on this.
No typical number of miles for clutch durability because so much depends on the driver.
A good driver who doesn't slip the clutch--engages it quickly and fully at low RPMs--can get well over 100,000 miles on the original clutch. An ignorant driver who holds the car on hills by partly engaging the clutch pedal and/or uses the clutch pedal as a foot rest (causing slippage) will need an new clutch in just a few thousand miles.
It would be helpful if you could watch the current owner drive the car to see how he/she takes care to refrain from slipping it too much.
Test it for slipping by tightly applying the emergency brake and engaging the clutch while reving the engine a bit. The car should stall. This test isn't good for the car, but at least you'll know if the clutch is slipping.....Richard
I hear that same noise too on my 2003 Accord LX Sedan. I also heard it on my previous 2001 Accord. I think it's just the way the transmission (or possibly the engine?) are, for whatever reason. Must have something to do with electronics? I kinda like the noise to be honest with you. In fact, most times when I drive I don't even have any music playing...I just like to listen to the engine/transmission doing its thing.
Hello! I have an Accord 2003. Got my brake pads change around 20,000 miles because it will vibrate and squeak when slowing down from 40mph. Took it in and they told me that the pads that came with it was rough for it, so they changed it on their cost. But the main problem is that I have took in my Accord for 2 times about the rear defroster, it will not go off automatic. I have either turn off the engine or push the button myself. They told me just to keep my eyes on it. Does anyone know that if the 2003 have auto turn off for the defroster? Please let me know. They are trying to tell me that it doesn't have that function for 2003 model.
91 accord lx 130k with miss (stumble) at idle. new wires,plugs,fuel filter,air filter,rotor, cap,inj cleaned and new air control vlave. NO CODES FOUND. Dealer and an independant unable to find the problem. I'm sure they didn't want to spend time trouble shooting this when they could make a quick dollar on something easier. When warmed up, tap and release the gas and the engine will die out or stumble to the point of shut down. It seems to run fine with throttle open on the road. But when you come to a stop at idle or even when in park at idle there's that stumble.
Luv this car and would like to keep it. Any ideas???????
I am having a problem with my 1997 Accord that may be the transmission. (I have an appointment at the dealer on 3/30). If it does turn out to be the transmission, then I'm going to have to decide on whether I want to have it fixed, or sell it and get a new car.
Any advice? The car just hit 100,000 miles. It is in very good shape (no major problems, just routine maintenance). I would just as soon keep it than buy a new one. HOWEVER, I don't know what else is in store for me right around the corner.
Have other people had the transmission go on them at 100,000 miles? Is this "normal"?
What other kind of stuff (besides normal maintenance) can I expect to encounter soon (whithin the next 25,000 miles)?
I am the happy owner of a 2003 LX auto with 29k on the odo. I have a few questions for the periodic maintainence intervals and would appreciate if you folks could shed some light.
The local dealer runs a $495 30K mile service, and I am not sure whether its worth having it done. i just read the dealer's doc for the 30k mile serivce, and they change tranny fluid, fuel filter, spark plugs etc in this service. In the manual, Honda says the tranny fluid does not need to be changed before 60k, the plugs are good for 100k miles etc. What should I follow?
Follow the manual, Honda know better than the dealer. The dealer will say it is better for the car which it may be but also unneccesarry. I followed normal schedule on my 9 year old 200k Honda and its problems free. Dealers push to make more $$$. Ask them to give a quote on what is in the manual, you can also use an indenpendant to do the work. I personally use a Honda specialized indenpendant with great success.
Follow your owner's manual. Even though they are the minimum guidelines, they are well developed.
I got 280K+ miles out of my Civic before selling itby following those recommendations, and had flawless service.
If you are uncomfortable with the dealer's price and interval, call around with what you need done and you'll likely find a better deal. I prefer my dealer but I use Honda's recommendations, not the dealers.
I find it offensive that at most dealers, they have a huge display of the "Intellichoice" car recommendations, which ranks the Accord as a best pick. That recommendation is based on total cost of ownership, with numbers posted right there on the board. I am INCENSED when the service department makes every effort to ensure your cost of ownership is at least double that.
but starting with the 6th Gen, Honda upped the intervals to 60K severe/120K normal for tranny and 120K for coolant. Now 10K oil changes. I don't believe the intervals written in the user manuals by Honda are correct for anyone trying to get to 200K with the original drivetrain any longer.
You probably could reach 100K, but Honda's legendary long life would be unattainable with what is specified currently IMHO.
On the other hand, I doubt the dealer would replace your platinum plugs and fuel filter @30K. He might inspect them.
Okay, I have a '96 Accord LX with 133,000 miles. In October or November of 2003, the heads were "fixed." Also, the radiator was replaced. About 3 weeks ago, one of the hoses burst, and I had that replaced and the coolant refilled. However, when I turn off my car, the fan turns on about 2 minutes later. It stays on for a few minutes. The temperature gauge stays in the normal range while driving. Please help! I must get this taken care of b/c I'm selling the car to my brother!
I don't know about the '96 Accord, but this is normal for some cars and here's why: after the engine is shut down and the coolant is no longer circulating, an automobile engine retains heat and actually gets hotter for a short time before it starts to cool.
A fan thermostat is designed to turn on the elecric engine cooling fan when a certain temperature is reached, so it's doing what it's supposed to do if the temperature rises enough after the engine is turned off.
There could be a problem if the fan in a '96 Accord is supposed to be disabled when the ignition is off--a Honda mechanic should be able to answer that question....Richard
My 1997 Honda Accord behaves that way, paricularly in the summer when it is very hot outside. I do believe that it is normal, as a means of cooling the engine down.
I'm aving an issue that I'm looking for assistance with. I've search the discussions, but did not see this.
I have a 2003 Accord EX V6 (auto). Overall a very nice car. However, at high rpms, there is a nosiy rattle fron the right underside of the car.
This occurs is I am accelerating fast, ex. on the freeway. Once I hit about 5800-6200 RPM, the rattle/vibration starts, then the transmissions shifts, the rpms drop, and sound disappears. It is definitely outside, on the right underside of the car.
I have duplicated this at the dealer, and they say it's normal. I disagree. Sounds like the rattle my catalytic coverter cover used to make on a car I used to have. They also said "I should not drive at high rpms or I will damage the engine". I find this odd; I never yellow or redline it, and it's an rpm that is within the shift range. If it was dangerous, the shift point would be lower, right?
Anyway, any help would be appreciated. I think it's not correct, and would like to get it fixed.
I just bought a 2004 Honda Accord EX V6 with NAVI on January 15th, 2004. The car had 3 miles on it when I took delivery. I have gone over that car several times (usually when I clean the inside of it and when I wax it), and I have already started to notice rust on the car. I found the rust on the front passenger door, at the very bottom of the door, near the front bottom, underneath the speaker. If you look at where the speaker is in the door, and look underneath that at the very bottom of the door, there is a little spot (almost like a hole), that's supposed to be there. It's at the very front bottom of the door. It looks like it might be a water runoff channel or something. At the corner of one of the welds, there is a very small amount of rust.
I took this car into Ken Dixon Honda in Waldorf, MD and asked the service manager to get it fixed. He took it for 30 minutes and came back and said it was all set, because the car was under warranty. I expected him to take car of it so it will never come back (AKA sand down the rust, prime it, paint it, and maybe clearcoat it). I can understand the difficulty in getting to the rust (you can barely use sandpaper to get to it).
I noticed about two weeks ago that the rust is starting to come back, and discovered that the service manager just touched up and painted over the rust. With rust, you have to get rid of it ALL, or else it will come back.
I called the dealer where I bought the car (College Park Honda), and their service manager told me that they could not touch the car because Ken Dixon Honda already touched it. Is this true?
Finally, I went to a body repair shop to get an estimate on what it would cost to repair the rust, and they said it would cost $972.64. I guess they have to unweld the inside and outside panels of the door, take off all the plastic stuff (door handles etc), find the rust (or where it's coming from), sand it down, prime it, paint it, clear coat it, and put everything back together.
I went back to Ken Dixon Honda and told them the story (I was mad but not rude) and told them to fix it right. I showed them the estimate, and I guess the district service manager in the DC area has to approve the cost. He will approve it/disapprove it on April 6th when he comes down to Ken Dixon Honda from Baltimore.
My question is: Instead of fixing the door (and possibly screwing up the paintjob so it might not match the rest of the car), couldn't I just get an entirely new door? An entire door can't possibly cost as much as the repair. The exterior color of the car is Graphite Grey.
Even if you got a new door, you still would have to get it painted to match the rest of the vehicle. Your situation is unique, I have not heard or read of an issue like this. I would be very upset also. The quality of almost all car manuf. have fallen, everyone is looking to cut cost. If the dealer can't get it right, I would take the door apart and purchase a rust inhibitor, which can be applied in the in-side of the door which seals the rust from moisture and it should stop the spreading. Also, I remember my mechanic telling me that it's a good idea before the winter season to spray oil into the doors. By doing this where the water would gather during the winter months, the oil will not allow the water, salt to attack the metal parts. Good luck, I hope the job is done right.
I don't think I would have to paint the door because it would be a brand new door that was painted Graphite Grey. Can I just swap doors? I'm sure that will be less expensive than repairing the old one. Is it possible to buy entire doors?
I don't think I would have to paint the door because it would be a brand new door that was painted Graphite Grey. Can I just swap doors? I'm sure that will be less expensive than repairing the old one. Is it possible to buy entire doors?
From my understanding, the doors/body parts come primed only. Then the dealer/body shop paints the door/body parts at their shop. It would be very difficult to prevent damages to large body parts that are to be shipped already painted and not have them be destroyed by the shipper. I know that you can however order the trunk spoiler already painted from HONDA. The larger body parts I doubt that, but then again nothing surprises me.
Just picked up a new 2004 4 cylinder Accord sedan a few days ago, and have put only 100 km on it.
When the car goes over bumps, potholes, joints, ..., seems like somewhere around the glove box or passenger side air bag is always making a noise. Now the centre console has joined the "orchestra" !!
Has anyone identified any sources of these noises and know some DIY quick fixes?
I went thru some of the older messages and knew that many 03 and 04 accords are having all these rattling and strange noises problems.
I knew dealers won't help much as I had a 97 Civic and a 00 Camry before. Dealers attempted a few times to fix these strange noises with no luck.
Are we simply going to live with it and trade it in after 3-4 years for a hopefully no rattle Accord?
I'm so tired of these noises, always from the passenger side. This happens so early this time, less than 100 km or 60 miles.
I found there's noise usually from the passenger seat belt and the cupholder position.. if I have some misc stuff put in the cupholder, they hit the "claws" of the cupholder and making noises.. see if that's the case.. also make sure the sun visor is tightened.. there's once that i didn't and the plastic was drumming
With what has stopped working, I'm assuming out of the blue,, I would look for a fuse or breaker. In my '03 there are at least three areas to look at for fuses/breakers.
If it were a fuse most likely none of the window rocker switches would work. Also, you don't have breakers, only fuses in your car. It's most likely a bad rocker switch. Regardless, you will have to take it to a Honda dealer, auto body shop or a glass shop for repair, so let them check it out. All of them have the expertise to fix it and the door panel will have to be removed to get to any of the parts that may be your problem anyway. Good luck!
I am having similar rattling noises in my 2004 V6 Accord from the same area. Haven't taken it in yet (largely because I doubt whether the dealer would be able to fix it).
But I did a search on google groups and someone reported that the same rattling problem turned out to be the AC system pollen filter, which is apparently located somewhere behind the glove compartment or passenger side airbag.
Also, in the September 2003 long-term test of the 2003 Accord here on Edmunds, all the drivers apparently complained of a rattling noise from the windows, which I have also experienced on the front passenger side.
I'd love to hear if anyone else has had a similar problem. I took delivery of my car in July of 03. It had spark knock. To make a very long story short: 7 trips to 2 different dealers( the 1st gave up after 3rd try)Appx. 6 weeks total in shop. I picked up my car on Monday this week with the new installed long block and guess what? I still have spark knock!
Well, I went to the dealer the other day, and have an update:
It turned out not to be a transmission problem. I had a small leak in the A-pipe of the exhaust, which caused the car to make a strange noise, particularly when accelerating up a hill after a stop or near-standing stop (e.g., encountering a hill after stopping at a traffic light). The transmission seemed to whine to me also, but it looks like it was probably just dropping into low gear for the hill.
Does anyone know a solution to the vibration problem that occurs when the compressor kicks in? Honda techs tell dealer it is "normal" on this model. Normal means the steering wheel shakes and the front seat vibrates when stopped in gear.
I'm thinking normal means, "yea we know and we can't fix it, so consider it a product feature"
What an annoying problem though. Any sage advice? (Honda Customer Svc pushed it back onto the dealer)
It appears Honda doesn't have a solution to the vibration. My dealer "tweaked idle speed and cleaned the PCV valve" of my wife's 04 EX-L last time but there was hardly any improvement.
It's a big 4 and the engine was turned 180 degrees, so I'm thinking Honda didn't have enough development time for a smoother engine. Historically, idle smoothness hasn't been a Honda trait in their 4s but I'm sure they can engineer roughness out if they had the will and time to do so.
The vibration that you are talking about is "temperature sensitive". On very cold days in "stop and go traffic", it will be "very noticeable" at a traffic light with the trans in "drive", the AC compressor "on", and your foot on the brake. If you shift to neutral the vibration goes away. If you come off a highway, and stop at a light with the trans in "drive", the AC compressor "on", and your foot on the brake, the vibration is still there, but not as noticeable. If you shift to "neutral" the vibration goes away. On warm days, the vibration in "drive" at a light is noticeable, but not as bad as cold days.----- So, what does this all mean in the "real world"? ---- I think that we have two problems with this issue. The first problem is the design of the engine mounts that allow this vibration to be felt in the vehicle.----- The second issue, is the "idle of the engine, when the AC compressor turns on, (with Heat or AC).The fact that when the car comes off the highway, and then stops at a light with less vibration, tells me that under hood temperature being fed back into the "engine air intake" does something to the "computer command control system" as opposed to "stop and go driving" with underhood temperature at a lower level, that changes engine idle on colder days. I think there is also a "temperature sensor" / "Air intake sensor" / TPS sensor issue with the 4 cylinder engine. If you remove the transmission load from the engine, by putting the slector in neutral, the vibration is not felt, because the idle speed "picks up" and the engine is not "flexing" on it's mounts. In very cold weather, when the AC compressor kicks on, maybe the curb idle speed in "drive" should be higher or the computer should be capable of making the adjustment. Maybe the air intake temperature sensor or the TPS cannot regulate and or feed the necessary information back to the computer to adjust the idle for these conditions. The temporary fix is to shift the trans to neutral at a traffic light.
I'd be more inclined to suspect Honda's low torque at low RPM characteristics. If the load at idle is reduced (AC compressor turned off or transmission shifted from drive to neutral) or the idle speed is increased, the vibration subsides or disappears. Being at a complete stop with the transmission in drive introduces a load on the engine similar to the experience trying to avoid stalling while feathering your clutch while moving from rest with a manual transmission car. I've always likened the experience to mowing a thick lawn with the throttle on low - give it more gas and the mower feels much smoother going through the grass and less rattle and shake is transmitted to the arms through the handle.
Some may notice that the effect is lessened just as they let off of the brakes before stepping on the accelerator. As the engine speed increases, the vibration decreases. That's why dealers sometimes bump up the idle speed.
I need to replace the heater control switch & cable in my 94 Accord. The part is only $50. and I would like to attempt it myself. ***Looking for assistance in getting the section of the dash removed to get to the control switch. Could anyone let me know the best way for that part of the dash removal.
Appreciate your inputs.....oh, the chilton's book didn't mention anything on dash removal.
Yes, Honda has determined this. I have gone through several knobs so I know what your saying. Honda wants $825. for this and to replace the pipe & hose suction under the hood.
Comments
The part just snaps on. There is a screw (can't remember if it is a hex or not) that olds the sun visor in place. After removing the visor you sould easily be able to replace toe part.
Good Luck
A good driver who doesn't slip the clutch--engages it quickly and fully at low RPMs--can get well over 100,000 miles on the original clutch. An ignorant driver who holds the car on hills by partly engaging the clutch pedal and/or uses the clutch pedal as a foot rest (causing slippage) will need an new clutch in just a few thousand miles.
It would be helpful if you could watch the current owner drive the car to see how he/she takes care to refrain from slipping it too much.
Test it for slipping by tightly applying the emergency brake and engaging the clutch while reving the engine a bit. The car should stall. This test isn't good for the car, but at least you'll know if the clutch is slipping.....Richard
A clutch can easily last the life of the car but a sloppy driver in San Francisco could probably ruin a clutch in 40,000 miles.
I wouldn't worry about this. Honda clutches are pretty tough.
I know...I'm weird.
My 03 Accord does not turn it off automatically either.
Luv this car and would like to keep it.
Any ideas???????
Any advice? The car just hit 100,000 miles. It is in very good shape (no major problems, just routine maintenance). I would just as soon keep it than buy a new one. HOWEVER, I don't know what else is in store for me right around the corner.
Have other people had the transmission go on them at 100,000 miles? Is this "normal"?
What other kind of stuff (besides normal maintenance) can I expect to encounter soon (whithin the next 25,000 miles)?
Thanks.
The local dealer runs a $495 30K mile service, and I am not sure whether its worth having it done. i just read the dealer's doc for the 30k mile serivce, and they change tranny fluid, fuel filter, spark plugs etc in this service. In the manual, Honda says the tranny fluid does not need to be changed before 60k, the plugs are good for 100k miles etc. What should I follow?
I got 280K+ miles out of my Civic before selling itby following those recommendations, and had flawless service.
If you are uncomfortable with the dealer's price and interval, call around with what you need done and you'll likely find a better deal. I prefer my dealer but I use Honda's recommendations, not the dealers.
I find it offensive that at most dealers, they have a huge display of the "Intellichoice" car recommendations, which ranks the Accord as a best pick. That recommendation is based on total cost of ownership, with numbers posted right there on the board. I am INCENSED when the service department makes every effort to ensure your cost of ownership is at least double that.
You probably could reach 100K, but Honda's legendary long life would be unattainable with what is specified currently IMHO.
On the other hand, I doubt the dealer would replace your platinum plugs and fuel filter @30K. He might inspect them.
A fan thermostat is designed to turn on the elecric engine cooling fan when a certain temperature is reached, so it's doing what it's supposed to do if the temperature rises enough after the engine is turned off.
There could be a problem if the fan in a '96 Accord is supposed to be disabled when the ignition is off--a Honda mechanic should be able to answer that question....Richard
My 89 Accord does that too.
I have a 2003 Accord EX V6 (auto). Overall a very nice car. However, at high rpms, there is a nosiy rattle fron the right underside of the car.
This occurs is I am accelerating fast, ex. on the freeway. Once I hit about 5800-6200 RPM, the rattle/vibration starts, then the transmissions shifts, the rpms drop, and sound disappears.
It is definitely outside, on the right underside of the car.
I have duplicated this at the dealer, and they say it's normal. I disagree. Sounds like the rattle my catalytic coverter cover used to make on a car I used to have.
They also said "I should not drive at high rpms or I will damage the engine". I find this odd; I never yellow or redline it, and it's an rpm that is within the shift range. If it was dangerous, the shift point would be lower, right?
Anyway, any help would be appreciated. I think it's not correct, and would like to get it fixed.
I took this car into Ken Dixon Honda in Waldorf, MD and asked the service manager to get it fixed. He took it for 30 minutes and came back and said it was all set, because the car was under warranty. I expected him to take car of it so it will never come back (AKA sand down the rust, prime it, paint it, and maybe clearcoat it). I can understand the difficulty in getting to the rust (you can barely use sandpaper to get to it).
I noticed about two weeks ago that the rust is starting to come back, and discovered that the service manager just touched up and painted over the rust. With rust, you have to get rid of it ALL, or else it will come back.
I called the dealer where I bought the car (College Park Honda), and their service manager told me that they could not touch the car because Ken Dixon Honda already touched it. Is this true?
Finally, I went to a body repair shop to get an estimate on what it would cost to repair the rust, and they said it would cost $972.64. I guess they have to unweld the inside and outside panels of the door, take off all the plastic stuff (door handles etc), find the rust (or where it's coming from), sand it down, prime it, paint it, clear coat it, and put everything back together.
I went back to Ken Dixon Honda and told them the story (I was mad but not rude) and told them to fix it right. I showed them the estimate, and I guess the district service manager in the DC area has to approve the cost. He will approve it/disapprove it on April 6th when he comes down to Ken Dixon Honda from Baltimore.
My question is: Instead of fixing the door (and possibly screwing up the paintjob so it might not match the rest of the car), couldn't I just get an entirely new door? An entire door can't possibly cost as much as the repair. The exterior color of the car is Graphite Grey.
Any comments would be helpful.
Even if you got a new door, you still would have to get it painted to match the rest of the vehicle. Your situation is unique, I have not heard or read of an issue like this. I would be very upset also. The quality of almost all car manuf. have fallen, everyone is looking to cut cost. If the dealer can't get it right, I would take the door apart and purchase a rust inhibitor, which can be applied in the in-side of the door which seals the rust from moisture and it should stop the spreading. Also, I remember my mechanic telling me that it's a good idea before the winter season to spray oil into the doors. By doing this where the water would gather during the winter months, the oil will not allow the water, salt to attack the metal parts. Good luck, I hope the job is done right.
From my understanding, the doors/body parts come primed only. Then the dealer/body shop paints the door/body parts at their shop. It would be very difficult to prevent damages to large body parts that are to be shipped already painted and not have them be destroyed by the shipper. I know that you can however order the trunk spoiler already painted from HONDA. The larger body parts I doubt that, but then again nothing surprises me.
I'm new to here, and looking for some help.
Just picked up a new 2004 4 cylinder Accord sedan a few days ago, and have put only 100 km on it.
When the car goes over bumps, potholes, joints, ..., seems like somewhere around the glove box or passenger side air bag is always making a noise. Now the centre console has joined the "orchestra" !!
Has anyone identified any sources of these noises and know some DIY quick fixes?
I went thru some of the older messages and knew that many 03 and 04 accords are having all these rattling and strange noises problems.
I knew dealers won't help much as I had a 97 Civic and a 00 Camry before. Dealers attempted a few times to fix these strange noises with no luck.
Are we simply going to live with it and trade it in after 3-4 years for a hopefully no rattle Accord?
I'm so tired of these noises, always from the passenger side. This happens so early this time, less than 100 km or 60 miles.
TTB
Door locks still work and trunk opens, however, no visual or audible feedback from the lights and horn.
Has anybody else seen this?
Any ideas?
In my '03 there are at least three areas to look at for fuses/breakers.
But I did a search on google groups and someone reported that the same rattling problem turned out to be the AC system pollen filter, which is apparently located somewhere behind the glove compartment or passenger side airbag.
Also, in the September 2003 long-term test of the 2003 Accord here on Edmunds, all the drivers apparently complained of a rattling noise from the windows, which I have also experienced on the front passenger side.
I still have spark knock!
It turned out not to be a transmission problem. I had a small leak in the A-pipe of the exhaust, which caused the car to make a strange noise, particularly when accelerating up a hill after a stop or near-standing stop (e.g., encountering a hill after stopping at a traffic light). The transmission seemed to whine to me also, but it looks like it was probably just dropping into low gear for the hill.
So it looks like I dodged the bullet this time.
I'm thinking normal means, "yea we know and we can't fix it, so consider it a product feature"
What an annoying problem though. Any sage advice? (Honda Customer Svc pushed it back onto the dealer)
It's a big 4 and the engine was turned 180 degrees, so I'm thinking Honda didn't have enough development time for a smoother engine. Historically, idle smoothness hasn't been a Honda trait in their 4s but I'm sure they can engineer roughness out if they had the will and time to do so.
Some may notice that the effect is lessened just as they let off of the brakes before stepping on the accelerator. As the engine speed increases, the vibration decreases. That's why dealers sometimes bump up the idle speed.
***Looking for assistance in getting the section of the dash removed to get to the control switch. Could anyone let me know the best way for that part of the dash removal.
Appreciate your inputs.....oh, the chilton's book didn't mention anything on dash removal.
Honda wants $825. for this and to replace the pipe & hose suction under the hood.