Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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  • kunkkunk Member Posts: 3
    When I roll down the widndows on my 95 accord (power windows) It makes a awful noise when I first start to roll them down. Any ideas what this might be?
  • kunkkunk Member Posts: 3
    When I start my 95 accord up I hear a weird whiny/griding noise that I believe to be comming from the ABS unit. This noise continues for 30 secs. to a minute after starting my car. Then the ABS light goes on and the noise stops. Any Ideas?
  • mikecmikec Member Posts: 40
    Can you please post more information on this? I am near 35,000 and have had this problem since day one, and really need to get it fixed.
  • kunkkunk Member Posts: 3
    any good thoughs on stopping leather seats from ripping? Drives side seat is starting to rip at a seam. Anythoughs on stopping or reparing this?
  • gotribegotribe Member Posts: 101
    Was very surprised when my 03 Accord EX V6 sedan's rear pads were worn out at 15k miles. No uneven wear, no calipers binding---just worn out. Pads replaced under "one time" warranty allowance. Now I'm hearing a rumbling from the rear which the dealer cant replicate. Getting very tired of this and other quality problems. Dealer actually admitted to me that this generation Accord has much more quality problems than prior ones. Maybe its time for hello Toyota or Nissan....
  • bchidambbchidamb Member Posts: 1
    Hi Bryan,

    I'm having a similar problem (passenger-side, ~below glove-box dashboard rattle) on my 2003 Accord EX - the problem started last week after ~13000 problem-free miles.

    It happens when the car is idling too, on occasion. I think you're right about the heat/ac fan being a probable cause because I've more aware of the problem on hot days.

    Please let me know how your dealer visit panned out.

    Thanks
    Bala
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    Have never gotten the passenger side airbag light to do anything except the self check when key first to the "on" position. Regardless of load, no load, or light load in the passenger seat. Tried having side air bag path blocked (per manual) to see if light would go on. Nada. Has anyone seen the light activate in any condition except the self check or know if it should? Dealer service writer would only say there were no codes (I only wanted to know how it worked, not if it was broke) and he didn't know what would activate the light. Thanks.
  • ken972ken972 Member Posts: 162
    Yes Ive gotten the light to come on. When I put my desktop computer case on the passenger seat is causes the light to come on. I believe the light is designed to come on when a small child is in the seat. I believe the owners manual addresses this..or the quick reference guide says something about it.
  • ttbttb Member Posts: 40
    Hi Martin,
    Not sure where exactly you mean to add the foam insulating tape.
    I'd like to give it a shot.
    Thanks.
    Tony
  • rumpletzerrumpletzer Member Posts: 39
    The passenger side airbag "off" light comes on for me when I put my bag on it sometimes... when the bag is full of books. I assume it's the weight and not the height of the bag (is there really some sensor detecting size?) because the bag is often there with fewer books and the light doesn't come on.
  • ml_2000_accordml_2000_accord Member Posts: 2
    That did the trick! I just turned the piston clockwise using the two slots across the top of the piston surface and the piston went back down into the caliper.

    Thanks for the advice.
  • dust90dust90 Member Posts: 169
    BRAKES not breaks
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    When something breaks on the brakes it's necessary to understand that sometimes "those are the breaks" even though the problem involves the brakes.
  • rumpletzerrumpletzer Member Posts: 39
    Okay, when I was finalizing my purchase the dealer pointed out to me (in the manual) that the recommended oil change interval for my V6 Accord is 7500 miles. That's a lot different from the 87 Chevy S10 that I've driven (and maintained) for the past ten years.

    Is this for real? 7500 miles on the engine oil? Is the original factory oil synthetic?

    Also, the owners manual appears to suggest that the oil filter be changed on a 15000 mile interval. I'm not sure I understand. I change the oil at 7500 miles, but I don't change the filter until the second oil change?? Don't I have to take the filter off anyway to get the old oil out of it?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Glad to hear you got it sorted out. One other thing I should have mentioned, if the inner pads have tabs protruding out of the back (can't remember offhand whether Accord does), make sure the pistons are rotated so their slots line up with the tabs.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    Rumor has it that the "break-in" oil is special in some way, although I haven't seen any details on how.

    The difference in oil change intervals since your 87 Chevy is due to much improved additive packages as well as improvements in oil filter technology.

    The service dept at my dealership recommended that you leave the "break-in" oil in for the entire 7500 miles. From that point on, change it at least every 7500 miles. Some people have indicated that they're uncomfortable with such a long change interval, so they change it more often. It's your car and your choice, so do what feels right to you.

    The other thing is, make sure that your driving doesn't fit the severe schedule, in which case the recommended change interval is shorter. Unlike years ago, the normal schedule seems to match up pretty well with the driving habits of the average person.

    Regarding the filter, you don't have to remove it if you're not going to change it. The idea is that the cup or so of oil in the filter will mix with the new oil and that small amount of dirty oil won't have any bad effects.

    Personally, even though I follow the 7500 mile change recommendation, it just feels wrong to leave the old filter in. So I change the filter every time, as I imagine most people do.
  • dougwdougw Member Posts: 1
    In the summer of 2002 I received a call from a Honda dealership to turn in my Accord lease early
    and get into another Honda. Not long after the call I noticed transmission problems when backing. I took the Honda in to discuss turning the lease, which was over warranty, in for another Honda. Upon inspection of the Accord the
    dealership decided I was to blame for the tranny trouble. After much discussion I was convinced that the best course of action was to "roll" the cost of repairs to the tranny into the purchase price of a new Civic. Ultimately, I paid about $4000 too much for the Civic to get out of the Accord. Two months after the lease turn in I received a letter from Honda advising that due to tranny problems with the Accord they would reimburse anyone who paid for tranny repairs.
    Unfortunately, I have no documentation showing repairs to the Accord. I do have, however, a bloated Civic payment which I do not want. A lawyer has suggested trying to find others with similar complaints and a track record of trouble with the Accord proving Honda knew of problems prior to warranty extension notification. Any suggestions
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    If the repair was done at a Honda dealer they should be able to reprint a copy of your receipt showing you paid for the repairs.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    I would recommend 5000 mile oil change in lieu of the 7500 mile interval. I have read through some oil related forums and it seems regular dino oil lasts about 4-5k miles in regular conditions. Synthetic oil will do the 7500 mile run better. If you keep the car less than 150k then 7500 mile is probably fine but over I would recommend 5k. 3k is still stuck in many of our heads and it keeps the oil change indusry and dealer shops customers in for more chance of a sale. My independants recommend (one Honda specialist) recommend 5000 miles on quality oil. (ie Pennzoil or Castrol). Lastly change the filter, Honda's recommendation seems pennywise and pound foolish, its seems like cleaning a baby diaper and reusing it.
  • starihstarih Member Posts: 10
    I posted message #7328 and #7332 a couple of weeks ago fearing that my car wouldn't start one day and sure enough, it didn't start up last night and I had to have it towed home. It was quite embarrassing to have my brand new 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 w/navi, no plates, vehicle sitting on the platform of a tow truck.

    I took my Honda in two weeks ago and the molding was snapped back on, but I was told that it was "normal" for a new car to "break in" since the service manager couldn't replicate the car not starting up and all diagnostics were "normal".

    I guess it's not my imagination and it's definitely not "normal" now that the car won't even start at all. Now, I have to wait till tomorrow morning and have it towed to the dealership for them to figure out why. (The AAA guy said it was a bad connection, whatever that means.)

    To add more boo...hoo...to my lovely new car, I hear the same noise as many of you have written about a little click when you lightly tap the brakes. I'm also experiencing a "clunk" noise when I first put my car in drive and press the gas pedal. I also hear the slight wind in my car, but then again, I won't ever complain on that if my car would just start running again.

    I seriously thought I was doing the right thing when I bought a Honda, but I've never experienced so many little "noises" and "glitches" considered to be "normal" within owning my car for 26 days.

    Of course I shouldn't complain because there are other nice perks to the car like my much loved navi.

    My last car was an Acura Integra and I had it for 13 years. The first "weird" noise came when the car was 10 years old and at that age, it had every excuse to exhibit signs of parkinson's.

    I'll keep you posted as to what the dealer says about my car.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    But not starting at all is better than an intermittent problem. As a technician I was much happier when something came in inoperative than when something was just "out of spec". Inop is much easier to fix. As for the noise when first going into drive, deos it happen after you start rolling? It's probably the ABS self check.
  • starihstarih Member Posts: 10
    The clunk noise comes approximately 1-5 seconds after I press on the gas pedal. This happens each and every time I shift to drive from either park or reverse. The car clunks one time initially and then it drives just fine. No more clunking at stop signs, but as soon as I shift to a different function(park or reverse) and then back to drive, it will clunk again when I press on the gas pedal.

    My last car had ABS and I've never heard or felt the ABS performing a self check. Is this ABS self check typical of newer model cars? All the electronic doodads in these newer cars are so confusing and finicky. Thanks for your help gee38coupe.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Whenever we go from forward to reverse. I had a Vigor that made somewhat the same sound. No other problems though so I'm not concerned unless others have it diagnosed.

    ABS self check happens on all ABS cars. My Si, LS400 and the Accord all do it. The Toyota/Lexus isn't as obvious as the Accord's but all systems do it.
  • dodgerdodger Member Posts: 5
    I purchased a new Accord last week and have driven it about 250 miles. After just a few miles it developed a severe rattle somewhere in the dash. To say the least I'm very disappointed that a car with such a good reputation has developed problems within the first few miles. Plan to take it back to the dealer tomorrow if I don't push it over a cliff first. My 99 Mazda never had and still doesn't have any rattles. Feel like I made a big mistake not buying another Mazda.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I've owned several Hondas and I would say the older ones were better in many ways than the newer ones. But woudl you want to have an accident in one? I wouldn't. Check the crash test too. Only other car that compares is the Camry.

    I even turned a Honda Civic back in to the dealer for paint issues that would have required bodywork to repair. Still bought another Honda. But a rattle making me doubt my car? Naaa. If a rattle is more important than safety...priorities???
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Sorry to hear that you have a rattle, but, don't you think you just might be overreacting just a tad?

    It's not uncommon for ANY car to develop a rattle early in it's life! This is why you have a warranty and a service department.

    Even Hondas aren't perfect and neither are Mazdas.

    Relax...!
  • cpc524cpc524 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your input. The end result was that I filed a complaint with NHTSA, and with Honda America. Honda America came through with a reimbursement of 50% of my rebuilt transmission cost, which is something, but.......I doubt that I'll buy another Honda in the future.
  • jmc2965jmc2965 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Honda Accord, only 63,000 miles. When I make a left turn, there is a loud scraping sound. What could this problem be?
  • mikeysoftmikeysoft Member Posts: 63
    Could be a CV joint or rusting of a break rotor. Check to see if the rubber boot on one of the CV joints is torn. Take a look at your break rotors.
     
    You could also take it to a place that does breaks and CV joints. They may check it for free.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    Weight is the determining factor in shutting off the airbag.
  • 77hchbck77hchbck Member Posts: 24
    I'll probably look elsewhere also. It appears Honda has fallen back to the pack. They still design nice vehicles, but I have doubts about the longevity of their drivetrains (mostly their automatic transmissions).

    It appears they're also having issues with the 5spd automatics currently used in the larger vehicles (Ody,MDX,Pilot). At least they issued a recall for them rather than an extended warranty.

    I wonder if this is the same tranny used in the Accord line?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    But as a member of Edmunds, it would behoove you to check on the other makes anyway. If you can find a model that combines all the Accord's attributes along with better reliability throught that makes lineup, I'll buy that car too. If you pigeonhole your purchase to one aspect of the car, it's wasy to get sidetracked. But saying I won't buy an Accord because of problems with the Honda minivan and SUV makes no sense.
  • 77hchbck77hchbck Member Posts: 24
    It's based more on their failures with the 6th Gen and the relatively new and unproven 7th Gen. They still build nice vehicles, but the 2nd 100K is where they used to shine.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    But it seems forums like Edmunds hadn't come into thier own until the last 7 years or so. In my time I've seen several Accord problems from previous editions that seem to pass by the radar. Just because there was no forum to complain does not meant there were no problems. My mantra before I bought my last 04 EX-L was never buy a Honda auto. They shifted too abruptly for my taste.

    But anyway...All cars have something. Just doe your research. If you can find a model that bests the Accord on all fronts including trasmission reliability get back to us.
  • asafonovasafonov Member Posts: 401
    I am away from home where I filed the copy of the TSB, but I will post the details tonight.
  • keitaroukeitarou Member Posts: 45
    Anyone have had problems with their engine just dying at idle after starting it? I have it happen to me about 7 times now. I would start my engine, and then the RPM would go up to 2 and then start to come down and die. sometiems it happens when i put it in drive and the RPM would go down and die. The car is an automatic. It has about 91K on it now. Also started to have a 3 sec lag of the car engaging after i put the car in drive. I would feel a bump if i let go of the brakes right after i put it on drive. Same with reverse.
  • rluerrarluerra Member Posts: 5
    I am experiencing a rubbing sound whenever I pull up to a driveway and turn my steering wheel to the left. It is a real annoying sound and sounds more like a squeal. It makes me worry about the quality of the vehicle. I only have 2k miles on it and started experiencing it about 500 miles ago but thought it might just be something temporary. Does anyone have any suggestions other than taking it to Honda to see what they can do about the problem? I absolutely love my Accord. It is the best vehicle I have ever owned and the quality, other than the rubbing, is top notch. Just wanted to see if anybody else out there has had the same experience with the sound and if there was a solution to the problem.
  • keungkeung Member Posts: 28
    Keitarou, you are not alone in your starting problem. Search back and you will find somewhat similiar problems such as mine.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    The owners manual also says the light comes on if there is no front passenger driving in the car. But it did not.
    Did I mis-read the manual or the manual is wrong?
  • starihstarih Member Posts: 10
    I just got my car back from the dealer and it appears that the battery was not installed correctly from the get go. Hence the reason why I was having a hard time starting the engine. The dealer corrected the cables, hold down and headlight cover which was all loose.

    Gee35coupe, you were correct on the ABS self check issue. The service manager told me the same story. So, if it jives then I guess there's not much to say so I'll drop it.

    Unfortunately, I will have to re-visit the dealer again (x3) in my first month of owning this car. The molding was not fixed from two weeks ago and the brake has developed a horrible case of loud metal rubbing together every time I step on it. The service manager drove it again, concurred and asked for me to bring it by again later this week because they were closing for the day and he and his technical team are off tomorrow. Will provide follow up later this week.

    Thanks to everyone for their feedback.
  • keitaroukeitarou Member Posts: 45
    Keung,

    So i guess you guys don't know what the solution is huh? I just hope the engine doesn't die while we're driving. Seems like some ppl are having that problem too. We just traded in a 99 Chrysler 300M because the engine on the car would stall while driving and bought a 04 Accord since Accords are reliable. Hope this doesn't make me lose faith in Honda reliability. Let me know if you guys ever find a solution.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    Concerning your '98. How many miles on the plugs?
    A change of plugs may be what is needed.
  • ken972ken972 Member Posts: 162
    Hey, Id have to reread the manual to answer your question. But the light should be off when no one is sitting there. It will only come on signaling the system is off when it senses an unsafe condition. ie..a little kid sitting there. With noone sitting there. The only time i see the light is when the car starts. Then it turns off.
  • asafonovasafonov Member Posts: 401
    Honda Service Bulletin 03-058
    September 23, 2003

    Applies to 2003 Accord L4

    Symptom: A creaking or popping when accelerating and decelerating.

    Corrective Action: Add to welds so the body panels do not rub against each other.

    HTH,
  • keitaroukeitarou Member Posts: 45
    I have had the Plugs changed at 60K and also at 90K mile service. Although it was not done at the dealer at 90K mile service, I am sure the plugs were good plugs. Had the timing belt and water pump and stuff changed at 90K as well. But i do have a recall on the car for ignition switch problem. I will have that done next week and i will let you know if that might solve the problem as some ppl have suggested in earlier posts.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    The light could come on with no one in the front seat if you set something on the seat. hang something from the back of the seat or even sometimes a cell phone on the seat can cause it to come on otherwise it will not set unless there is someone sensed on the seat and in a wrong position or wrong height/weight..
  • clint98v6atclint98v6at Member Posts: 54
    Doesn't the V6 come with platinum plugs that should be good for 100K? Just wondering why you've had to change them twice already. Did you go with non-platinum at 60K? Maybe you have a fuel pump/filter problem.

    As for the engine not engaging for 3 seconds, that is not normal. Sounds like you have a tranny problem. Unfortunately, the 98's are not covered by the extended warranty that Honda gave for transmission problems.
  • webexplorerwebexplorer Member Posts: 21
    I've got my 03Exv6 fixed too. It says 'seam weld' on the repair invoice. Apparently this problem occurs to all models. Thanks asafonov.
  • vandybart90vandybart90 Member Posts: 1
    Never know when radio will play or not. If not, then I can push on wire harness on back and it will play for some unknown amount of time. I need to remove it in order to trouble shoot,but have not been able to find all the screws, clips, etc. holding it in. It has the pocket underneath which appears held in by the tabs, but did not want to pry too hard and break it. Do I need to remove the dash trim? I and a couple of others have attempted, but struck out. I am sure someone knows a site or has removed the radio. Please help! 30 minute commute without radio gets old.
  • tigerstigers Member Posts: 2
    three weeks old v4 ex. 2500 miles.

    driving on the interstate suddenly i lost the ability to accelerate. then i noticed the dash lights weren't on. the radio still worked and the sun roof closed. i pulled over...carefully, turned off the car, and turned it back on. everything appears to be normal now. what has happened? i fear this won't be easy to replicate for the dealer so i'm a bit concerned.

    ideas?
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