I have a 94 Accord EX. Brake rotors need turning for the 3rd time. Just a few questions: 1. Is this common for the Accord? 2. Are there after market rotors that are better or should I stick with factory rotors? 3. It is my understanding that these rotors must be turned on the car. True or false?
I think it's there all the time at idle. However it stops when throttle is applied and only returns when back to idle. As far as temp.(ambient) I haven't paid attention to that. It does seem to start when engine is at normal temp. What would really confirm the tech's diagnosis would be to have him point out the valve he is referring to and see if wrapping a rag or even my hand around it would cause the ticking to become muffled. But I don't want to appear as if I doubt his educated opinion and am requiring a more detailed explanation than what he may be willing to offer.
You pointed me in the right direstion last week concerning taking out the "climate control" fan so I figured I would ask you another question.
The reason I needed to clean out the fan was that we had mice in our garage. They were traces of the critters in the trunk and in the car. What they ended up doing was taking out some of the insulation material and gathering it up in the trunk (and in the fan.) Well the mice are gone (muah-ha-ha) and I cleaned out the trunk and the fan. My only concern is where this insulation material came from and will it be an issue. I realize this is a vague question but where could this insulation be from? and could there be any long term issues I should be concerned with? Thanks.
To message #765. I heard that if you look at your manufacture date on the door panel, a date will be identified. If the date is prior to OCT 1999, you have to take the car in and have them fix the clunk sound on your car. Cars manufactured after OCT. 1999 don't have the clunk sound. My car was manufactured JUL 2000.
mm04 Honda brake rotors are still probably your best bet and yes it is best to turn them on the car and torque the lugs.
Fritz, I think your valve should be located on the left shock tower. There will be two there so see if they or one of them is doing the clicking.
emaison, The mice could have brought his own stuff or it may have come from the door of the recerc function. Either way it should have no long term affects that you will notice or matter..Good luck
It does not like damp or rainy weather and refuses to start in these conditions. As soon as the rain stops it is once again happy to comply. Our mechanic (who has been urging a new car for several months) suggests that it is one of three computer modules and has reluctantly replaced two out of the three. I also had a problem with the brake/shift release thingy so have to use the shift release key, the speedometer/odometer doesn't work, we are due for a new timing belt etc., etc. But I really like this car and I am used to it and I HATE, repeat HATE, car shopping. Is has 184K as of December when we lost the odometer. Am I really fighting a losing battle to hope for a fix? All suggestions are appreciated!
First off, I would like to thank you for your participation in this forum. I discovered some fluid leaking under the car today. It was a reddish fluid which I think is power steering fluid. The fluid level in my tranny fluid container is midway between full and empty.
Here is a link to some pictures I took. It's just so much bad luck that this happens to me on a weekend and I have to go out of town on monday with the car. =(
I hope you can help me identify if this is something that won't damage the car if I take it in when I get back mid next week or if I have to take it in right away.
"Reddish" fluid is ATF, not power steering. Honda PS fluid is close to clear in color. The ATF leak is no doubt why your trans is down a bit. Sounds like the transmission has a leaking seal.
I just took a look at your pictures, and it sure looks like the transmission to me. I await Auburn's more expert analysis, but that's the trans case you're focusing on, and the color can only be ATF. Get thee to thy dealer and get them working on it....
My 2000 EX Auto I4 has 18k miles and tranny is slipping going into 3rd gear. It happens frequently when the engine is cold, and is very unfrequent when the engine is warmed-up. I plan to call the service dept. soon but wanted to know if anybody else is experiencing this symptom. Inc case it matters this car was purchased in late September of '99
Since there have been so many questions about the transmission shudder issue, I thought I'd post the information taken directly from www.nhtsa.gov. When I gave this info to the service rep at my dealer, he got his book of TSBs from Honda and immediately found the information using #38. This is the same number for 98 - 2000, don't know about 2001.
Based on this TSB, they immediately scheduled a torque converter replacement. It improved the situation, but didn't eliminate it completely.
Hope this helps...
*****************************************
Service Bulletin Number: 00038 Bulletin Sequence Number: 125 Date of Bulletin: 0004 NHTSA Item Number: SB612567 Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 1999 Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER (8/82) Summary: VEHICLE MAY EXPERIENCE SHUDDER OR JUDDER WHEN DRIVING AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 20 AND 40 MPH, VIBRATION IS MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH IS IN THE PARTIAL LOCK-UP MODE. *MJS
The first picture in the series ferdm posted has the arrow pointing right at the vacuum switching valve for the purge control valve. I checked it out and you can feel the clicking in that valve. Would you consider this normal?
Why did Honda change the max mileage for a timing belt change? Did they make the timing belt out of a different material? Did they change the design of the engine?
Hi-- There are a couple of guys here with the 87 Accord (Carburetted). Just curious as to how many miles per gallon you all get! Unfortunately, Edmunds doesnt carry any info on cars dating back to 87.
I had a carburetored automatic 1986 Accord LX. I bought it when it already had 70K on the odo. My overall mileage across 42K miles was 27.7 mpg. In annoying city traffic, I would see about 22 mpg. In 90-mile round trip commutes, I would see about 27 mpg. In pure highway driving, I would see about 30 mpg. Best result was 35.7, worst result was 20.4. I drive with a heavy foot, so a mileage freak probably could eek out another 2-3 mpg.
jrct, you are right, it is not power steering fluid. I checked the power steering fluid and it is yellowish. I checked the transmission fluid dipstick and the level seems to be fine right now. It is at the maximum level on the stick.
Why does Honda give less of a warranty than the other Japanese Brands? Doesn't anyone ever ask? Seems like they'll get away with whatever they can. Never heard so much talk about extended warranty plans. Maybe if Honda gave a better Warranty, people would not be buying extended plans. Seems like Honda is making out on this deal.
jumpmom, I would think either cap,rotor or wires also. However it maybe a main fuel relay or tw sensor. We have seen those two things cause lots of intermitant no starts on the 1990-1993 cars.
Fritz, That is the valve and I would think based on the ones that I have checked lately (and they were not clicking) that yours may be on its way out. I will try and remember to check the book and see if it says anything that can help us out.
Ferdm, First of all, damn good use of modern tech with the pictures, I like that. Now on to the possible source,there is a sensor up in that area that has been known to leak.From the blue bolt look in a straight line towards the motor and see if you see a sensor with a 2 pin connector in the top part of the trans bell housing.If so see if it looks as if it is where the leak is comming from.It definitly looks like ATF and as long as you keep the trans full it most likely will not hurt anything by driving it till you can get it in.Good luck
Have you cleaned up the area where you noticed the fluid? Did the fluid show up again after cleaning? Could it have been there when you bought the car? You know, that's close to where the tranny dipstick is and if they were sloppy when they initially filled the tranny it could be from that. You know you check the fluid when the engine is at normal operating temp. and it is not running. This was new to me since all the other cars I have had require the engine to be running when you check the fluid.
Thanks again. Would the warranty cover a part that's "on its way out" or does it have to fail first in order to get it replaced? Any idea on what the cost might be if I had to pay out of pocket?
You could try and call your service advisor and ask him if he would try a known good part on your car or order you a new one based on the principle that you know a few other owners and their cars don't make the same noise. Try it and see what he says first. Good luck
Thanks. If I'm looking at things correctly, you asked me to look at the third bolt away from the big blue bolt if I'm looking towards the front of the car. It's not leaking there. It appears to be limited to the previous area.
One last question before I call the service department tomorrow. Please check the link below. Those 3 holes are filled with fluid. Is there supposed to be a piece covering those holes? Or are they normal?
Why doesn't Honda offer a warranty as long as the other japanese car makers? They don't have too.
I have had 6 different Honda made cars. It has been my experience (knock on wood) that there really isn't much that has gone wrong. My typical expenses in the first 5 years/60k are: brakes, tires, oil changes, 30k service, 60k service. After that, the next 60k brings timing belt, cv boots, brakes and 'maybe' exhaust. I think these expenses are very minimal and should mostly be considered normal wear and tear. We just bought a 2001 Accord and when we were offered the extended warranty, I kind of laughed to myself. I just couldn't see the price of maintainance being greater the cost of the warranty. I can't say why people by the extended plans but in my experience (again knocking on wood) they aren't necessary.
I have a 98 Accord EX 4cyl and last summer the check engine light came on at about 81K miles. They hooked it up to the machine and it came back with cat converter deteroiration and I was advised to wait after they reset the light because the dealership could not believe that the cat conv was bad.
Well after 4 months of an on and off light, they finally decided that the cat conv must be bad and want me to come up with about $1200 to fix it. I've complained to American Honda but they say their warranty expired at 80K. The dealership won't take responsibility and I am getting close to the water pump/belt maintenance. I do not want to kick out this kind of money.
Has anyone else had this type of problem? Is there anywhere else I can turn? Lastly, is there a way to disconnect that check engine light - thinking about trading it in...
Fritz, I can feel what you are talking about in the purge control valve if I keep my hand on it but still haven't heard the noise. If you can hear that all the way inside the car as well as under the hood and they are the same noise then I would have to say yours is on the noisy side but still funtioning.See what they say and if they will not replace it I wouldnt worry too much about it at this time.
Ferdm, Those holes are where the speed sensor used to be located and are not punched through any longer. There is no seal or cap that goes there, what you see is the way it is.I would have to say that if the sensor is not leaking that it must be that presure line that the blue bolt is holding down. There is an aluminum crush washer under there, maybe it is leaking.
Cat, The reason they had a hard time believing it is because you don't see to many go bad. Your options are kind of limited as far as the light goes unless you have them clear the light and then get rid of it. If not wanting to do the timing belt then you may want to decide on trading it in to a dealer and let them take over the problem. Telling a dealer or not telling them is better than selling privatly and not telling.Last thought would be to go to a junk yard and see what they want for a cat.Good luck in your choices..
A month ago I bought a 2001 Accord EX V6. After reading your message and seeing the pictures I checked the "incriminated" area and sure enough I found red fluid in the places you described. I spent some time inspecting the area and I came to the conclusion that the only way the fluid could get into those holes is through a leak from the ATF cooler line nearby (the one held down by the "blue" bolt). I cleaned up the fluid and carefully tightened the "blue" bolt. There are two sealing washers one between the head of the bolt and the cooler line, the other between the cooler line and the transmission cover (I have the service manual). Unfortunately the service manual doesn't provide the torque specification and I did not want to run the risk of over tightening the bolt and damaging the washers. Maybe auburn63 could recommend a safe torque value. 150 miles later still no more leaks. Good luck.
Thanks for your input. My dealer has a customer liason representative and I have left a message for her to contact me. I'll tell her about it and see what she can suggest. She has been helpful in the past, but I just don't want to proceed in any manner that would seem too pushy. Your suggestion seems appropriate as well. Thanks again.
Oh, by the way. I can't hear the ticking(clicking) from inside the car-only when the hood's up and I'm standing in front of the car. Even if there isn't a problem with the noise, it still seems to cheapen the perception of how the engine sounds. If a potential buyer heard this kind of noise I'm sure it would cause a person to be suspect. I could tell them what it was but... you know what I'm getting at. Not that I'm in anyway considering selling it, but just considering all angles.
After looking at the online pictures [isn't "new tech" wonderful?], and having a good look at my own '01 V6, I concur that it has to be the bolt itself at the junction of the pressure line and the trans case, assuming you have checked the connector that Auburn was referring to. Mine is completely clean, so I also notice that the main seal between the engine and transmission occurs right on the same plane where the pressure line bolts to the trans case. But main seal failures in these engines strike me as pretty rare events [right, Auburn?], so my suspect is the bolt itself not being torqued properly. If so, it is an easy fix...
Took the car to the Honda dealer for the ticking,and they said it was the valve lifters.They said that the lifters are just dirty and that if i use mystery oil that should take care of the ticking.Does that sound right to you.I have a 3 month warranty on the car so i don't want it to expire then be stuck with the problem.my warranty is not through honda but with PROTECTION PLUS INC.They have their own adjuster which he determines if that is the problem or not.
If the adjuster says that the lifters are not the problem then i will be stuck with the bill,that is what the honda dealer said.barry's honda in North Dartmouth,Ma.WHAT DO YOU THINK!!!!!!!!
Fritz, One thing I keep forgetting to ask you is which valve do you hear the noise from? The one towards the front of the car has larger hoses and the one towards the firewall side has smaller vacuum hoses. The back one(firewall side,smaller hoses) is for the engine mount system.
Trans leak, main seal failures are rare however can be possible. I don't know the torque spec of that bolt of hand but it is on a crush washer and you can feel it crush and then get tight. I will try and get a spec...
Macho3 I would put a call into the warranty company and tell them your diagnosis was bad lifters and would they cover them. Try to get them to commit to the job. Otherwise we have had some success using a drain and refill with ATF, then run @ 2000 rpms for 15 min and drain and fill back up with oil (5-30) and a new filter.We have never used the mystery oil so I don't know how that works.Good luck
I took the car to the nearest Honda dealer on Monday and had them inspect it. The service advisor told me that it was missing the washer/seal for the pressure line to the reservoir and was probably a slow leak until recently. They said that it was probably missing right from the factory. From the factory! They put in new seals and replaced the connector. I was still able to go on my trip that day. So far, so good and no more leaks. However, now the engine feels rougher compared to before they did the work. It's definitely not as quiet and you can feel a slight vibration on the accelerator pedal when pushing it. I decided to check the oil and it seems to now be burning oil as the oil is noticeably darker than when I checked it just 3 days ago!
This has really put a damper on my satisfaction of owning this car. My first issue was when the leather heater switches were reversed (Canadian Accord). The steering wheel had to be tilted left to go straight. They replaced something to try to get it centered and for a little while, it seemed to be ok. It has slowly come back and now it's at the same level as it was before. Then the transmission leak. All this within the first 3 months of ownership. These episodes really give me doubts about Honda's quality control and workers at the Ohio plant.
I am hoping that once I figure out the oil thing, nothing else happens. I think I will have to go for the first oil change early, at 4000km (2500miles) instead of 6000km (3750miles) and then see how fast the oil turns black.
It's the one toward the front of the car. I contacted the customer service liason rep and she said she would have the service associate call me. Haven't received their call yet. I hope I haven't ticked them off. I'm starting to think maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. Considering all the other serious things that can go wrong in a car I don't want them to reach their limit of patience in dealing with me and then start playing "hardball". So far they have been very professional and courteous and myself likewise. I've still got @ 18 mos and 18k miles left on my warranty.
You will be fine, they shouldn't get mad at you for being inquisitive about your car. Unfortunatly it is usally the ones like us who are afraid of stepping on anyones toes that get the least. The grouchies and the mean ones get all the good stuff. But they get talked about behind their backs so I guess we are better off. Anyhow wait and see then drop it if you want...
The car is currently receiving a new transmission after first calling Honda Customer Service and finding a new dealer. If your car is having this problem believe me that Honda does know about it. Thanks for the info jrct9454. Honda didn't give us any problems on getting the new tranny. First step is getting diagnosed by a quality dealer. Thanks Edmunds. Burny
Just got my 01 Dark Green EX-V6 yesterday evening before the dealer close... 1st of all, I love that car! It is so sweet; no question about it! Only thing is to decide the color, a silver or a dark green.
Before I drove away, I did noticed that the driver side door didn't open and close that nicely... When I open the driver door, it seems like the door is popping out and it is harder to close compared to other doors. The saleman told me that every car is builded differently and it may feels different in every Honda; but a technicial and him both acknowledged that the driver door does felt diff when opening and closing. He told me that it was probably NEW or an alignment problem when install the driver door. So, he assured me that if the problem persist, he will fix it for me until I am happy.
From my past experience (I drove a wrecked used car when I was in college), that's how it feels. Of course, the 01 EX-V6 didn't feel that bad, but you can tell it is kind of a similar feeling but in a more minor scale.
So, I told him how I felt and ask him what if the car has structural damage... He said if the car really has a structural damage, they can replace one for me... but I don't really trust him on this... Again, he told me that he don't think that's the problem and he think the problem will go away by itself because his theory was the car is brand new (ONLY 1 MILE on the ODO).
This morning, I went out to "enjoy" my new baby in my garage and noticed that the rear portion of my sunroof on the driver side is sited higher than the other 3 corners of the sunroof. So, I make sure that the sunroof is fully closed and check again... Same observation!!! I went behind the car and look at the structure of the roof around the sunroof from behind and noticed a shallow "DEN" in that area where I complained the sunroof was a bit higher than usual.... I look at the same area on the f-passenger side and I don't see a den but a smooth surface...... My God!! I felt so sad now....!! (the reason why I can see the den clearly is because the color is so dark that you will be able to see the den's reflection easily; probably won't notice that easily if it is a Silver color...)
I called the saleman and he asked me to go in on Monday to talk to the service manager to re-solve this issue. My instinct tell me to get a new replacement car (but I have a feeling that the dealer won't do that) because I don't think I pay that much money for a structural damaged car; furthermore, you never know what really happended to it and what it will do to your car in the long run..... (I bought a wrecked car before).
So, for the expert out there... Do you guys think that if there's really a den in the car or if the structure is damaged, can I demand for a new replacement car? I only had the car for less than 24 hours and i have reported the problem to the dealer and even before I drove the car away... On top of that, the saleman didn't let me sign the paper work about the car was inspected by the Honda technicial and that I agree on all the items were checked and ok; but he did include the form in the paperwork I bring home. The from has everything checked but no signature of a technicial and mine...
Thanks in advance and thanks for reading my sad and lousy long mesg. Thank you!
Hi guys, on my last second paragraph the sentence - "My instinct tell me to get a new replacement car (but I have a feeling that the dealer won't do that) because I don't think I pay that much money for a structural damaged car;" is a bit confusing...
What I meant was, I would like to get a new replacement car because I have pay so much money for it - $23,000 with Audio panel wood trim kit and cargo net and I don't think I will settled for a damaged car. But my gut feelings tell me that the dealer won't be too happy to give me a replacement car and they will try very hard to avoid that...
I hope I am wrong and I hope they will give me a new car because I think I deserve that.
Guess what. Your gut feelings are right. They will fight you tooth and nail on replacing this car. First they will offer to repair the problem. This may or may not satisfy you, but I'm sure a problem of this nature will not and should not warrant another car. You sure there aren't underlying motives beside this minor thing. Don't start your relationship with these guys on the wrong foot or this "den" could cost you down the road. As you have already found out, your salesman's job is done and he immediately hands you off to the service manager. The salesman can't play intermediary because this may give you the mistaken impression he can still do something for you and also that the finality of the car sale is still up in the air. It's not and he's done. Good luck!
It appears to be some one broke into car while it was sitting on delaer's lot. And whoever fixed it had not done good job. You should have bought the silver one. I don't think that they will exchance it for you. Good luck.
I feel for you. When you buy a new car you want it to be perfect, and it should be. I guess I'm in the minority but I think you have every right to ask for a different car if this one has any damage, especially since you've only had it a day and you did point out the "door feel" to the salesman that night. I'm not a lawyer, so I didn't know this for sure, but I think you have 3 days to cancel a contract. Go back NOW and talk to them. Talk to their body-man and find out exactly what's causing the problems. You may be surprised how cooperative your dealership may be. Be polite and reasonable ... you can get "unpolite" later if needed. They want a satisfied customer, it's good business and they all seem very concerned about the questionaire you receive from Honda after the sale. I had a simular problem with my new Accord. After I got home I noticed a small cut in the armrest. A few days later I found another small cut or tear in the bottom of the seat. I figured the dealer would say "too bad, how do we know you didn't do the damage yourself." I had looked the body over really well when I took delivery but didn't look over the interior as well (another lesson learned!!). Surprise, the dealership was great about the damage, said no problem! Fixed everything, no questions asked. I went there expecting a problem and there was none. You may find the same thing.
Now for my sad story. Sitting at a red light Friday....bam...someone rear-ends me. Had my new Accord 14 days. Not alot of damage, just a scratched up bumper, but like I said in the beginning you want it to be perfect!
Thanks again for all this wonderful responds esp kaycee41's. I signed the deal on Thursday and they deliver my car on Friday... I called the dealership (salesman) on Saturday morning to report the new found problem - dent; and he ask me to come in on Monday.... So, I am going in 1st thing in the morning tomorrow (Monday).
About kaycee41's reply on 3 days to cancel the contract... I hope tomorrow (Monday) is consider the 3rd day for me... Of course, I will find out the validity of the regulation.
I know I should not have driven the car away but I did, feel so bad for the salesman if I refused to take the car after all the things he has done for me.... So, I guess I have learned yet another lesson and I will have to work this out.
As for fritz1224: ---------------- I don't know what do you mean by "You sure there aren't underlying motives beside this minor thing." I sure hope you aren't referring it to me because if you are, my respond to you will be this...
1st, if I really got a replacement car, it will be still the same EXACT car and color that I got. And I honestly think that my problem is definitely NOT a minor thing!! May be one day, when you buy a brand new car and found the same problem, we will finally be on the same page and you will understand my feelings. Again, this respond is only valid if you are asking or questioning about my "motives". And I am truly sorry if I misunderstand your point in the 1st place.
Thanks again.
Good luck to me as I will be in the dealership 1st thing tomorrow morning.
I have recently bought two brand new cars. One was a honda accord v6 and there were "minor" problems, but never did it cross my mind to request a replacement before I had even talked to the service dept. One of those minor problems was occassional periods where the car would require 4 or 5 attempts to start it before it would stay running. Others were scatched window requiring replacement and improper installation of window gasket requiring window removal. All have been fixed to my satisfaction. If you bought a brand new house and noticed the roof leaked, do you think the builder would give you another house? Certain big ticket items don't warrant immediate replacement unless the item can not be used for its intended purpose or the problem can't be corrected within a reasonable number of attempts. Sorry to question your motives, no offense intended.
Hi, I have done a some what major service on my accord 95 when the mileage was 45K...changed oil/air/fuel filters, spark plugs, battery, engine tune, radiator , timing belt etc.. Now the mileage is 56.5K and I wonder if another major seervice is required ? I regularly change oil/filter at 3K intervals..pls help.
At waht intervals do we need to change air and fuel filters?
The exhaust started producing some abnormal sound recently.. what could be the problem? The FM/Radio antenna is not folding in when it is switched off? what is the reason? And there is tick sound from the bonet when the engine is switched off and it last for 3-5 minutes. Similary I have to wait 3-5 minutes to bring the rpm to zero when the engine is switched on.. is there any proble with the engine...
Pls supply me with your expert advices/... Apreciate all helps...
Please let us know what happens at the dealers today. We're hoping everything is worked out to your satisfaction.
I think I know what fritz1224 was getting at when he mentioned underlying motives. I think all new car buyers go through a period of "buyers remourse" right after a purchase. After all, it's ALOT of money and we were faced with ALOT of choices. I nit-picked my car too death the first day or two. Even now I question if I made the right color choice (black). But after a few days you'll find you really did make the right choice and you "jitters" will subside. Then you'll really enjoy your new car.
1st, to fritz1224: Thanks for the explanation. I think I am a lot more calm now compared to when I 1st reading your mesg. No hard feelings, hope we are cool now.
For the update... I was in the dealership and guess what, they told me I shouldn't have drove the car away, etc, etc... but they said they will try to fix everything for me. Still, there are some uncomfortable feelings in me knowing about the dent and in fact, we found new problem... along the sunroof (across from the diver to passenger side) we noticed like a bump, spreaded along the sunroof. Again, not that noticeable.
But before the service advisor, service manager, and a diff technician admit to those structural stuff... they all deny seeing anything wrong with me car, even all of them said the door feels aright UNTIL I told them that I have had the car looked by diff people and that the salesman and a technician have confirmed the door does feels diff. on the night of delivery. Suddenly, all of them can see my problems CLEARLY... and start talking!
They said that the dent and bump might be caused by the improper installation of the sunroof and for the door, it JUST need to re-aligned?? The service manager told me that they might be able to fix the dent without having to re-paint the factory paint (which he strongly discourage me to do). He said if it is not possible, then they will have to re-paint that part...
So, I asked for some extra warranty for the car just in-case and the dealer asked me to call Honda; just spoke to Honda and still waiting for Honda's good news if they are going to grant some extra warranty for my car.
One interesting is that Honda asked me about the PI sheet and I found out that the dealer did not let me sign the paper. Only a technician's badge number with no date; of course, everything is checked out in there...
I did ask the dealer about any damage to the car that they know of and their answer was NO... can I trust them on this? Well, I ask Honda to check that for me too.
Again, thanks a lot. Will update again when I hear anything from Honda.
Comments
1. Is this common for the Accord?
2. Are there after market rotors that are better or should I stick with factory rotors?
3. It is my understanding that these rotors must be turned on the car. True or false?
What would really confirm the tech's diagnosis would be to have him point out the valve he is referring to and see if wrapping a rag or even my hand around it would cause the ticking to become muffled. But I don't want to appear as if I doubt his educated opinion and am requiring a more detailed explanation than what he may be willing to offer.
The reason I needed to clean out the fan was that we had mice in our garage. They were traces of the critters in the trunk and in the car. What they ended up doing was taking out some of the insulation material and gathering it up in the trunk (and in the fan.) Well the mice are gone (muah-ha-ha) and I cleaned out the trunk and the fan. My only concern is where this insulation material came from and will it be an issue. I realize this is a vague question but where could this insulation be from? and could there be any long term issues I should be concerned with? Thanks.
Honda brake rotors are still probably your best bet and yes it is best to turn them on the car and torque the lugs.
Fritz,
I think your valve should be located on the left shock tower. There will be two there so see if they or one of them is doing the clicking.
emaison,
The mice could have brought his own stuff or it may have come from the door of the recerc function. Either way it should have no long term affects that you will notice or matter..Good luck
Here is a link to some pictures I took. It's just so much bad luck that this happens to me on a weekend and I have to go out of town on monday with the car. =(
I hope you can help me identify if this is something that won't damage the car if I take it in when I get back mid next week or if I have to take it in right away.
http://www.geocities.com/hardocp999/index2.html
Thanks!!
Based on this TSB, they immediately scheduled a torque converter replacement. It improved the situation, but didn't eliminate it completely.
Hope this helps...
*****************************************
Service Bulletin Number: 00038
Bulletin Sequence Number: 125
Date of Bulletin: 0004
NHTSA Item Number: SB612567
Make: HONDA
Model: ACCORD
Year: 1999
Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER (8/82)
Summary: VEHICLE MAY EXPERIENCE SHUDDER OR JUDDER WHEN DRIVING AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 20 AND 40 MPH, VIBRATION IS MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH IS IN THE PARTIAL LOCK-UP MODE. *MJS
Just out of curiosity...
Why did Honda change the max mileage for a timing belt change? Did they make the timing belt out of a different material? Did they change the design of the engine?
Thanks!
There are a couple of guys here with the 87 Accord (Carburetted). Just curious as to how many miles per gallon you all get! Unfortunately, Edmunds doesnt carry any info on cars dating back to 87.
Thanks.
http://www.geocities.com/hardocp999/index2.html
jrct, you are right, it is not power steering fluid. I checked the power steering fluid and it is yellowish. I checked the transmission fluid dipstick and the level seems to be fine right now. It is at the maximum level on the stick.
I would think either cap,rotor or wires also. However it maybe a main fuel relay or tw sensor. We have seen those two things cause lots of intermitant no starts on the 1990-1993 cars.
Fritz,
That is the valve and I would think based on the ones that I have checked lately (and they were not clicking) that yours may be on its way out. I will try and remember to check the book and see if it says anything that can help us out.
Ferdm,
First of all, damn good use of modern tech with the pictures, I like that. Now on to the possible source,there is a sensor up in that area that has been known to leak.From the blue bolt look in a straight line towards the motor and see if you see a sensor with a 2 pin connector in the top part of the trans bell housing.If so see if it looks as if it is where the leak is comming from.It definitly looks like ATF and as long as you keep the trans full it most likely will not hurt anything by driving it till you can get it in.Good luck
Thanks. If I'm looking at things correctly, you asked me to look at the third bolt away from the big blue bolt if I'm looking towards the front of the car. It's not leaking there. It appears to be limited to the previous area.
One last question before I call the service department tomorrow. Please check the link below. Those 3 holes are filled with fluid. Is there supposed to be a piece covering those holes? Or are they normal?
http://www.geocities.com/hardocp999/pic7.JPG
Fritz,
Yes, I tried cleaning the area as best I could and it came back. It definitely wasn't there when I bought the car.
I have had 6 different Honda made cars. It has been my experience (knock on wood) that there really isn't much that has gone wrong. My typical expenses in the first 5 years/60k are: brakes, tires, oil changes, 30k service, 60k service. After that, the next 60k brings timing belt, cv boots, brakes and 'maybe' exhaust. I think these expenses are very minimal and should mostly be considered normal wear and tear.
We just bought a 2001 Accord and when we were offered the extended warranty, I kind of laughed to myself. I just couldn't see the price of maintainance being greater the cost of the warranty. I can't say why people by the extended plans but in my experience (again knocking on wood) they aren't necessary.
Well after 4 months of an on and off light, they finally decided that the cat conv must be bad and want me to come up with about $1200 to fix it. I've complained to American Honda but they say their warranty expired at 80K. The dealership won't take responsibility and I am getting close to the water pump/belt maintenance. I do not want to kick out this kind of money.
Has anyone else had this type of problem? Is there anywhere else I can turn? Lastly, is there a way to disconnect that check engine light - thinking about trading it in...
I can feel what you are talking about in the purge control valve if I keep my hand on it but still haven't heard the noise. If you can hear that all the way inside the car as well as under the hood and they are the same noise then I would have to say yours is on the noisy side but still funtioning.See what they say and if they will not replace it I wouldnt worry too much about it at this time.
Ferdm,
Those holes are where the speed sensor used to be located and are not punched through any longer. There is no seal or cap that goes there, what you see is the way it is.I would have to say that if the sensor is not leaking that it must be that presure line that the blue bolt is holding down. There is an aluminum crush washer under there, maybe it is leaking.
Cat,
The reason they had a hard time believing it is because you don't see to many go bad. Your options are kind of limited as far as the light goes unless you have them clear the light and then get rid of it. If not wanting to do the timing belt then you may want to decide on trading it in to a dealer and let them take over the problem. Telling a dealer or not telling them is better than selling privatly and not telling.Last thought would be to go to a junk yard and see what they want for a cat.Good luck in your choices..
manual doesn't provide the torque specification and I did not want to run the risk of over tightening the bolt and damaging the washers.
Maybe auburn63 could recommend a safe torque value.
150 miles later still no more leaks. Good luck.
One thing I keep forgetting to ask you is which valve do you hear the noise from? The one towards the front of the car has larger hoses and the one towards the firewall side has smaller vacuum hoses. The back one(firewall side,smaller hoses) is for the engine mount system.
Trans leak,
main seal failures are rare however can be possible. I don't know the torque spec of that bolt of hand but it is on a crush washer and you can feel it crush and then get tight. I will try and get a spec...
Macho3
I would put a call into the warranty company and tell them your diagnosis was bad lifters and would they cover them. Try to get them to commit to the job. Otherwise we have had some success using a drain and refill with ATF, then run @ 2000 rpms for 15 min and drain and fill back up with oil (5-30) and a new filter.We have never used the mystery oil so I don't know how that works.Good luck
I took the car to the nearest Honda dealer on Monday and had them inspect it. The service advisor told me that it was missing the washer/seal for the pressure line to the reservoir and was probably a slow leak until recently. They said that it was probably missing right from the factory. From the factory! They put in new seals and replaced the connector. I was still able to go on my trip that day. So far, so good and no more leaks. However, now the engine feels rougher compared to before they did the work. It's definitely not as quiet and you can feel a slight vibration on the accelerator pedal when pushing it. I decided to check the oil and it seems to now be burning oil as the oil is noticeably darker than when I checked it just 3 days ago!
This has really put a damper on my satisfaction of owning this car. My first issue was when the leather heater switches were reversed (Canadian Accord). The steering wheel had to be tilted left to go straight. They replaced something to try to get it centered and for a little while, it seemed to be ok. It has slowly come back and now it's at the same level as it was before. Then the transmission leak. All this within the first 3 months of ownership. These episodes really give me doubts about Honda's quality control and workers at the Ohio plant.
I am hoping that once I figure out the oil thing, nothing else happens. I think I will have to go for the first oil change early, at 4000km (2500miles) instead of 6000km (3750miles) and then see how fast the oil turns black.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Thanks for the info jrct9454. Honda didn't give us any problems on getting the new tranny. First step is getting diagnosed by a quality dealer. Thanks Edmunds.
Burny
1st of all, I love that car! It is so sweet; no question about it! Only thing is to decide the color, a silver or a dark green.
Before I drove away, I did noticed that the driver side door didn't open and close that nicely... When I open the driver door, it seems like the door is popping out and it is harder to close compared to other doors. The saleman told me that every car is builded differently and it may feels different in every Honda; but a technicial and him both acknowledged that the driver door does felt diff when opening and closing. He told me that it was probably NEW or an alignment problem when install the driver door. So, he assured me that if the problem persist, he will fix it for me until I am happy.
From my past experience (I drove a wrecked used car when I was in college), that's how it feels. Of course, the 01 EX-V6 didn't feel that bad, but you can tell it is kind of a similar feeling but in a more minor scale.
So, I told him how I felt and ask him what if the car has structural damage... He said if the car really has a structural damage, they can replace one for me... but I don't really trust him on this... Again, he told me that he don't think that's the problem and he think the problem will go away by itself because his theory was the car is brand new (ONLY 1 MILE on the ODO).
This morning, I went out to "enjoy" my new baby in my garage and noticed that the rear portion of my sunroof on the driver side is sited higher than the other 3 corners of the sunroof. So, I make sure that the sunroof is fully closed and check again... Same observation!!! I went behind the car and look at the structure of the roof around the sunroof from behind and noticed a shallow "DEN" in that area where I complained the sunroof was a bit higher than usual.... I look at the same area on the f-passenger side and I don't see a den but a smooth surface...... My God!! I felt so sad now....!! (the reason why I can see the den clearly is because the color is so dark that you will be able to see the den's reflection easily; probably won't notice that easily if it is a Silver color...)
I called the saleman and he asked me to go in on Monday to talk to the service manager to re-solve this issue. My instinct tell me to get a new replacement car (but I have a feeling that the dealer won't do that) because I don't think I pay that much money for a structural damaged car; furthermore, you never know what really happended to it and what it will do to your car in the long run..... (I bought a wrecked car before).
So, for the expert out there... Do you guys think that if there's really a den in the car or if the structure is damaged, can I demand for a new replacement car? I only had the car for less than 24 hours and i have reported the problem to the dealer and even before I drove the car away... On top of that, the saleman didn't let me sign the paper work about the car was inspected by the Honda technicial and that I agree on all the items were checked and ok; but he did include the form in the paperwork I bring home. The from has everything checked but no signature of a technicial and mine...
Thanks in advance and thanks for reading my sad and lousy long mesg. Thank you!
What I meant was, I would like to get a new replacement car because I have pay so much money for it - $23,000 with Audio panel wood trim kit and cargo net and I don't think I will settled for a damaged car. But my gut feelings tell me that the dealer won't be too happy to give me a replacement car and they will try very hard to avoid that...
I hope I am wrong and I hope they will give me a new car because I think I deserve that.
Thanks.
You should have bought the silver one. I don't think that they will exchance it for you. Good luck.
Now for my sad story. Sitting at a red light Friday....bam...someone rear-ends me. Had my new Accord 14 days. Not alot of damage, just a scratched up bumper, but like I said in the beginning you want it to be perfect!
Thanks again for all this wonderful responds esp kaycee41's. I signed the deal on Thursday and they deliver my car on Friday... I called the dealership (salesman) on Saturday morning to report the new found problem - dent; and he ask me to come in on Monday.... So, I am going in 1st thing in the morning tomorrow (Monday).
About kaycee41's reply on 3 days to cancel the contract... I hope tomorrow (Monday) is consider the 3rd day for me... Of course, I will find out the validity of the regulation.
I know I should not have driven the car away but I did, feel so bad for the salesman if I refused to take the car after all the things he has done for me.... So, I guess I have learned yet another lesson and I will have to work this out.
As for fritz1224:
----------------
I don't know what do you mean by "You sure there aren't underlying motives beside this minor thing." I sure hope you aren't referring it to me because if you are, my respond to you will be this...
1st, if I really got a replacement car, it will be still the same EXACT car and color that I got. And I honestly think that my problem is definitely NOT a minor thing!! May be one day, when you buy a brand new car and found the same problem, we will finally be on the same page and you will understand my feelings. Again, this respond is only valid if you are asking or questioning about my "motives". And I am truly sorry if I misunderstand your point in the 1st place.
Thanks again.
Good luck to me as I will be in the dealership 1st thing tomorrow morning.
I have done a some what major service on my accord 95 when the mileage was 45K...changed oil/air/fuel filters, spark plugs, battery, engine tune, radiator , timing belt etc..
Now the mileage is 56.5K and I wonder if another major seervice is required ? I regularly change oil/filter at 3K intervals..pls help.
At waht intervals do we need to change air and fuel filters?
The exhaust started producing some abnormal sound recently.. what could be the problem?
The FM/Radio antenna is not folding in when it is switched off? what is the reason?
And there is tick sound from the bonet when the engine is switched off and it last for 3-5 minutes. Similary I have to wait 3-5 minutes to bring the rpm to zero when the engine is switched on.. is there any proble with the engine...
Pls supply me with your expert advices/... Apreciate all helps...
I think I know what fritz1224 was getting at when he mentioned underlying motives. I think all new car buyers go through a period of "buyers remourse" right after a purchase. After all, it's ALOT of money and we were faced with ALOT of choices. I nit-picked my car too death the first day or two. Even now I question if I made the right color choice (black). But after a few days you'll find you really did make the right choice and you "jitters" will subside. Then you'll really enjoy your new car.
Thanks for the explanation. I think I am a lot more calm now compared to when I 1st reading your mesg. No hard feelings, hope we are cool now.
For the update...
I was in the dealership and guess what, they told me I shouldn't have drove the car away, etc, etc... but they said they will try to fix everything for me. Still, there are some uncomfortable feelings in me knowing about the dent and in fact, we found new problem... along the sunroof (across from the diver to passenger side) we noticed like a bump, spreaded along the sunroof. Again, not that noticeable.
But before the service advisor, service manager, and a diff technician admit to those structural stuff... they all deny seeing anything wrong with me car, even all of them said the door feels aright UNTIL I told them that I have had the car looked by diff people and that the salesman and a technician have confirmed the door does feels diff. on the night of delivery. Suddenly, all of them can see my problems CLEARLY... and start talking!
They said that the dent and bump might be caused by the improper installation of the sunroof and for the door, it JUST need to re-aligned?? The service manager told me that they might be able to fix the dent without having to re-paint the factory paint (which he strongly discourage me to do). He said if it is not possible, then they will have to re-paint that part...
So, I asked for some extra warranty for the car just in-case and the dealer asked me to call Honda; just spoke to Honda and still waiting for Honda's good news if they are going to grant some extra warranty for my car.
One interesting is that Honda asked me about the PI sheet and I found out that the dealer did not let me sign the paper. Only a technician's badge number with no date; of course, everything is checked out in there...
I did ask the dealer about any damage to the car that they know of and their answer was NO... can I trust them on this? Well, I ask Honda to check that for me too.
Again, thanks a lot. Will update again when I hear anything from Honda.